You know, I mentioned yesterday that the two big stories this season are Miuccia Prada's continued amazing influence -- as seen in the collections that are unfolding -- and prints and patterns. But what occurred to me is that Miuccia IS responsible for the renewed interest in prints and patterns, and that her hefty endorsement of them is what has sparked fashion's love affair.
Ikat prints opened Oscar de la Renta's wonderful show yesterday morning (I loved the chicly tailored trench coat worn with matching shoulder bag). Proving himself to be a consistent designer with a clear vision of his customer, this was signature Oscar. He hit all the right notes and struck just the right balance with easy sportswear pieces (well, he made them look easy anyway), wonderful knitwear (including crochet sweaters and a tennis dress), sequined tweeds, embroidered boucle jackets and dresses, starchly crisp navy ottoman dresses and jackets (some accessorized with large gold buttons), printed swimwear, and of course- evening wear.
While he could have left off all those corset tops (a bit too 'Dangerous Liasions'), his tulle embroidered feather cocktail dress and gown, lace sweaters and embroidered organza skirts, and tulle and taffeta embroidered gowns were pretty great and made me wish for an occasion to wear them to.
Marc Jacobs' show held last night at the West Side Piers, on 13th street, is always wonderful for people watching. Liv Tyler, Kate Hudson, Donald Trump and Melania, and J.Lo were amongst those who came to see Marc's artfully bold, and often bright spring collection, that was about as far away from minimalism as you can get. Floral print dresses, spotted cardigans, rugby striped sweaters, and woven embroidered organza coats and jackets in eyepopping colors made for a very textural and visual sight. Marc's coats and jackets are always amazing, and his emphasis was on a full skirt. Pinstriped trousers or chinos were all very full, sitting low on the hip, and often cuffed above the ankle for a slouchy look. He ended the show with a group of sculptural taffeta evening dresses and everything was shown with a round toed very high heeled Mary Jane. At the end, pink shredded paper came from the ceiling to spill on the runway (and the show attendees). I still have them in my bag.
Question: If you're a furrier, how do you make a case for showing a spring collection? Do what Gilles Mendel did for J. Mendel Furs. Choose the thinnest most supple pelts, use them for the tiniest shrugs, reversible little jackets, or as trim on collars and cuffs, show a lot of great ready to wear, AND make sure you have a loyal friend and customer like the pretty Dr. Lisa Airan, show up on a hot late fall day, to take her place in the front row, wear one of your designs.(For the record, she chose a fox capelet).
- Posted by Marilyn Kirschner