Saturday, September 17, 2005

Friday Notes from Bernadine Morris:

Fashion presentations, like vaudeville shows, tend to save the best for last. So the last day of the tent shows in New York featured some exciting presentations, like Chado Ralpfh Rucci, which approached the elegance of the French couture. But there were other arresting performances before that, starting with Ralph Lauren, who rarely has a bad show, but this time had a superlative one. This time he worked wonders with blue and white stripes, giving them a freshness without nostalgia that was engaging In dresses as well as swimsuits. All of them were light and friendly and should have a strong hold on spring, Of course there were the usual tailored jackets, enhanced by ruffled blouses, some ruffled skirts, embroidies and other harbingers of pleasant weather. But the blue and white stripes were the heroes.

Donna Karan"s new message was a loosening up of her hitherto snug, svelt shapes. Dresses with fulness emanating from the top at the back were a fresh idea firom her, looking cool and graceful at the same time. A good shape is a dress, as wide as a poncho, decorated with abstract designs, spaced on a white backgound. This is done several times and makes a sharp turn from the figure-clinging clothes for which she is known. A change in fashion may be underway. comfort seems to be the guide.

-Bernadine Morris

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