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2008 Oscars: The Final Word
american master of fashion series: interview with ny fashion designer ralph rucci 56k & isdn
american master of fashion series: interview with publisher of fashion calendar ruth finley 56k
american master of fashion series: interview with new york times photographer bill cunningham click here
american master of fashion series: interview with style icon elsa klensch 56k-100k
american master of fashion series: interview with ceo of burberry rose marie bravo conducted by Grace Mirabella 56k-100k
american master of fashion series: interview with photographer arthur elgort conducted by Grace Mirabella 56k
the betsey johnson/playboy bunny runway show 56k isdn Broadband
whowhatweardaily.com celebrity fashion











Labels: FIT
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Labels: Oscar de la Renta, Resort shows
Monday, May 12, 2008
Labels: furs
Thursday, May 08, 2008
Labels: Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon, hats
Labels: Better Bets
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
Labels: Costume Institute Gala Opening
Amazing ‘Lace’
(Photos by Scott Gries)
It was a no brainer, after Miuccia Prada unveiled her lace laden fall winter 2008 collection in Milan several months ago, that lace would quickly find its way back into fashion’s favor and have a rebirth, if you will. Not that lace was in danger of disappearing, mind you, but let’s face it, when arguably one of the most influential designers in the world breaths new life into what is normally a demure fabric, dusts off the cobwebs that are normally associated with it, and basically builds an entire collection around it, it’s obvious that lace would find itself the center of attention. And as it turns out, lace (in a variety of incarnations) figured prominently in two events I covered on Wednesday.
Oscar de la Renta staged his 66 piece resort 2008 show, at what has become his new favorite spot, 583 Park Avenue. Looking relaxed and tan, he could be seen meeting, greeting, and mingling beforehand with a crowd that included editors (seemingly all of Vogue was there and Anna Wintour looked uncharacteristically sporty in a crisp white shirt, printed skirt - by Oscar I presume - and high heeled sandals), retailers, and social fixtures (though I have to report that the second row in one section had to be filled in at the last moment since apparently, a handful of guests did not show up).
The upbeat collection was pretty, it was ‘ladylike’, it was colorful, and it was filled with all the dashing designer’s signatures and favorites...,in other words, it was ‘very Oscar’. Among the recurring themes were matched and mismatched suits (many in silk shantung, wool and silk, cotton and silk); a myriad of blouses (some had attached scarves, some were sleeveless, others boasted interesting sleeves); the use of islandly shades of Caribbean blue, coral, emerald green along with more neutral ochre, eggshell, black, and white; prints (there was a phoenix print, a tweed print, woodblock prints, ikats, florals, abstract brushstrokes); wide legged pants; caftans; jewel like embroidery on dresses and sweaters; hand crochet knits; one shouldered cocktail dresses (little black dresses and printed dresses); the use of highly textured 3-d organza ribbon and pleated organza.
And there was lace: guipure lace, Chantilly lace, colored lace, lace overlay, and embroidered lace. (Of course, don’t forget that images of Oscar de la Renta’s ivory lace wedding dress, worn by Jenna Bush for her nuptials last weekend, were seen the world over). Standouts in the collection include a short white guipure lace empire dress; a white silk taffeta blouse with black Chantilly lace trim worn with a knee length Caribbean guipure lace peplum skirt; a short black guipure lace dress with a silk woodblock print embroidered skirt; an entrance making full skirted black silk organza and tulle gown with guipure lace bodice.
-Marilyn Kirschner
+ 5/15/2008;
Ernest
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‘Fur’ Sure
Design by Chris Benz
To say that Fur Fashion Week ‘aint’ what it used to be is an understatement. But then again, what is? Having covered the fur market for Harper’s Bazaar decades ago, I can remember jam packed fur weeks that easily spanned one week, were comprised of ambitious runway shows (many of which took place in elegant hotel ballrooms), and were attended by editors-in-chief like Anna Wintour. That was then and this is now. But still, notwithstanding Global Warming and the downward turn of the economy, furs are still going strong: the customer (men and women alike) continues to embrace fur and recent runways (for fall winter 2008) which were filled with innovative and creative ways to use fur, were a testament to the designers’ continued interest and their ongoing desire to view pelts as, well, just ‘another’ fabric.
This year, fur fashion week, organized by FICA (Fur Information Council of America, www.fur.org) will take place over the next two days, May 13 – 14, during which time there will be 17 presentations, including those by Michael Kors, Bill Blass, Ralph Rucci, Isaac Mizrahi, Peter Som, Zandra Rhodes, Zac Posen, Angel Sanchez, Carmen Mark Valvo, Kati Stern for Venexiana. (Other fur houses to show: Cassin, Orlando New York, Saga Furs, Helen Yarmak, Byte).
To kick things off and to name the winners of the first annual Emerging Fur Designer of The Year Award, I, along with other members of the press, designers, and manufacturers, were invited to a lovely champagne luncheon at Sapa, 43 West 24th Street. (Speaking of Global Warming, it was so cool and damp on this late spring day, that the idea of looking at furs, or even wearing one, did not seem so far fetched. And in fact, one of my colleagues wore a short vintage astrakan coat with a fur collar to this luncheon and just recently, I’ve spotted many of this city’s best dressed social figures, wearing little fur pieces over their cocktail dresses and evening gowns to brave off the chill as they arrived at soignée events and galas).
Winner Chris Benz with FICA Director Keith Kaplan
There were opening remarks from Keith Kaplan, the FICA executive director, a short video which introduced the 12 nominated designers (96 editors received ballots and voted, factoring in creativity, wearability, and salability), and still another highlighting furs shown at designers’ shows. At the end, two winners were named: one for ‘Accessories’ (the honor went to Doo.Ri who was not present), and one for ‘Full Garment’ (the winner was Chris Benz who was there to pick up his award).
'Future of Fashion' winners: From Left, Paulina Bui, Sara Shahbazi, and Alisha Moten
In addition, there were three dress forms featuring the innovative fur designs of three young designers representing the ‘future of fashion’ (Sara Shahbazi and Paulina Bui from Parsons and Aisha Moten from Virginia Commonwealth). I was particularly impressed with Ms. Shahbazi, (she graduates this month), who handed me a very professional booklet which was filled with black and white photos (which she took) of her ultra modern, luxurious yet streetwise fall/winter 2009 collection, which is “based on her fascination with Richard Serra’s sculptors”. She explains that she was “inspired by the modern lines and curved hems of Richard Serra’s sculptors”, and to that end, she concentrated on an urban and neutral palette of shades of gray, silver, teal blue, and black.
Sara Shahbazi with her blue iris coat
Her work emphasizes fabric mixes and rich textures through the use of fine wool, cashmere, sequins, knitted stitches, leather, and of course, fur. In fact, two standouts in her collection which speak volumes about her talents, are the black lamb leather cropped jacket with over the shoulder curved panels and quilted detail, and the blue iris coat with mixed sheared and long hair curved pieces which was on display at the FICA luncheon. Mark my words; Sara is a name to watch.
Sara Shahbazi's black lamb leather cropped jacket
In the meanwhile, (while I’m on the topic of furs) it’s ‘that’ time of year again. If you are searching for the best all inclusive fur storage company, one that offers a wide variety of services, expert leather cleaning and conditioning, top notch customer service, and will help you to restyle or transform any of your treasured pieces, look no further than Anne Dee Goldin’s GoldinStyle, http://www.goldinstyle.com/. For more information, call 212 239 0512 or email, info@GoldinStyle.com
-Marilyn Kirschner
+ 5/12/2008;
Ernest
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ASCOT, ‘SHMASCOT’
As a fashion spectacle (where hats take center stage), almost nothing compares to The Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon, organized by the Women’s Committee of the Central Park Conservancy. The 26th FLO luncheon took place on Wednesday, May 7th, spearheaded by chairwomen Memrie Lewis, Gillian Miniter, Nancy Missett, and Tara Rockefeller, boasted a guest list which included some of New York’s biggest movers and shakers (Mayor Bloomberg and Martha Stewart among them), and best dressed social fixtures (Jamee Gregory, Amy Fine Collins, Somers Farkas, Susan Fales-Hill, Muffie Potter Aston). Those honored “for their outstanding commitment and contributions to preserving the park” were Nancy Paduano, Margaret and Ian Smith.
In fact, this annual rite of spring (which is the Central Park Conservancy’s largest benefit), has become known as the “Hat Luncheon”. And for a good reason. What began as a small intimate gathering for a few hundred is currently a popular ‘see and be seen’ date on one’s social calendar, which now draws well over 1200 guests, most of whom apparently use the theme and location of the event as a perfect opportunity to ‘cap’ off their spring finery with a hat. And as everyone knows, hats are ‘big’ these days. In fact, the millinery industry has been getting a real boost from the fashion world these past few seasons what with influential designers such as Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera, Alexander McQueen, Donna Karan, featuring hats prominently on their runways.
While some of the headgear worn by guests at the FLO luncheon could admittedly best be described as ordinary, run of the mill and ‘garden variety’ (pardon the pun), and not every woman (or man) wore a hat, (no, that was not Mayor Bloomberg wearing a flower laden chapeau), there were many guests whose inspired, whimsical choices proved they put a great deal of thought and planning into their outfits, and were obviously inspired, as usual, by the enviable natural setting of the location, (the breathtaking Conservatory Garden).
Right: Amy Fine Collins
Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy
And so, it was not surprising (and somewhat predictable) to find flowers everywhere; flowers decorating hats and floral printed dresses and coat ensembles. Perhaps it was a case of floral overkill in some instances where guests mixed the two…yikes! And it was hardly surprising that everywhere I looked there were guests clad in colors that mimicked flowers: pink in every shade was a crowd favorite and I noticed a lot of shocking pink worn with black (a real trend this spring), in addition to lilac, purple, yellows, red, and greens. And then there were the feathers….which are obviously not just ‘for the birds’ and continue to be a perennial favorite with both women and fashion designers. Feathers of all kinds, in all sizes and colors adorned every imaginable style of hat. And then there were butterflies: one huge butterfly (no, not a real one) was sitting atop a garden of flowers on one woman’s large hat.
Okay, so it didn’t always work and quite frankly, taken out of context and away from the gorgeous surroundings, (walking around in mid town for example) many of the guests would have looked downright silly if not preposterous. But in the most glorious spot in Central Park, with the lush greenery, breathtaking flowers, and the sun shining brightly on a gorgeous spring day (they say “it never rains on the FLO Awards” and this year was no exception…the legend continues!), everything takes on a life of its own.
Mayor Bloomberg with the Conservancy's President, Douglas Blonsky
Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy
I know this is not a ‘fashion’ event per se, the guest list is not solely
comprised of fashionistas and fashion insiders (could it be that Mayor Bloomberg was the only one present at the FLO luncheon who also attended Monday evening's Costume Institute Gala?!?) so you must temper my comments with a grain of salt. From my perspective, I would like to see more women show some individuality and not look so Garden Party-ish, and wearing hats that look like bad cast offs from last year’s Kentucky Derby.
Somers Farkas
Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy
Which is why my vote for 'Best in Show’, has to go to statuesque social fixture Somers Farkas, who literally put everyone else to shame arriving in a dramatic starched white floor length shirtdress, accessorized with a messenger bag slung over her body, low heeled sandals, and a jaunty staw fedora adorned with a spray of white ostrich feathers. Of course, being almost 6 feet tall, rail thin, perpetually suntanned, and great looking doesn't hurt (who said life is fair?) and admittedly not too many others could have pulled that off. That said, I can’t think of a better excuse to "go with the 'FLO'", let loose, lighten up, dress up, have fun, smile, and most importantly, raise money ($2.4 million to be exact) for a great cause.
-Marilyn Kirschner
+ 5/08/2008;
Ernest
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'Better Bet's' Column
Rhonda Erb's brings back our popular column on what is new and interesting in New York retail, fashion, accessories and hip technology. Click here and enjoy!
+ 5/08/2008;
Ernest
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…..With a Capital ‘S’
Ever since word got out that the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute would be mounting its "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy" exhibition (May 7 – September 1, 2008), preceded by a Gala Benefit (hosted by Honorary Chair Giorgio Armani and Co-Chaired by Anna Wintour, George Clooney, and Julia Roberts), it seems the fashion world (always enamored with stars or anything ‘super’) could not get enough of the ‘S’ word. Certainly, it’s hard to squabble with the super duper star power of George and Julia who are arguably the two biggest superstars in the world. And say what you will about Giorgio Armani, the man has staying power and star power and through the years he has dressed some of the biggest stars in the world. He was a ‘super star’ designer long before the term was coined.
To be sure, there was no shortage of the ‘S’ word, during Monday morning’s press conference and press preview. First to address the assembled crowd was Anna Wintour who wasted no time singing the praises of Philippe de Montebello, the revered director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art who is not only the longest serving director of the institution but the longest serving director of any major art museum in the world, and who recently announced his plans to retire at the end of 2008. Anna enthused, "even though the fashion world may not be his world", it nonetheless owes a "huge debt of gratitude" to Philippe, who is "alone among world class museum directors" in that he has had "the vision to acknowledge the role that style, self presentation, and design play in modern culture" and has "executed that vision in a way that has inspired millions to think of fashion as one of our most complex and rich decorative arts". She remarked that within the Costume Institute’s "greatest shows" (which she labeled as "modern and directional while at the same time offering the sweeping historical perspective that is a signature of what this great museum stands for"), and in Philippe’s tenure, he has "given us the freedom to explore the connections between what we wear and how we live".
She further noted that "fortunately for all of us, Philippe likes the mix of costumes included the museums’ exhibitions to be as diverse, provocative, and exciting, as the guest list for the dinner itself" and referred to him as a most "gracious, unflappable and hospitable of hosts". And I can’t help but add that ‘unforunately’, thanks to Anna’s contribution of exclusivitity to this annual event, most of us mere mortals will not get a chance to see that wonderful ‘mix’. Be that as it may, Anna was visibly emotional as her voice wavered and she seemed to choke back tears as she introduced Philippe during which time the ‘love fest’ continued.
For his part, Mr. de Montebello referred to Anna Wintour as a "superhero’ in terms of fashion and in terms of her contributions to the Costume Institute, and he praised Andrew Bolton, Curator, and Harold Koda, Curator in Charge, for their tireless and creative input. The legend gave fashion an intellectual boost by referring to it as a "full fledged member of the academic part of this institution" and did his part to elevate it to lofty heights by questioning, "Why must objects of art only be rectangular and hung, as opposed to being worn?" (This got quite a laugh from the audience).
He spoke of the connection between superheroes of ancient times (whose likenesses reside in museum’s permanent collection) and modern day superheroes (who are just ‘visiting’ until the end of August) and made the observation that Hercules was the inspiration behind Superman and the Diana, the Huntress, was the inspiration for Wonder Woman. And speaking of myths and superheroes, he spoke of the "myth of Anna Wintour who has co chaired this event for the past 10 years", and introduced "a true myth in his own time, Giorgio Armani, the host for the gala".
Giorgio proved to be gracious, funny, humble, and somewhat self deprecating, as he revealed, through the help of an interpreter (GA barely speaks barely one word of English), that he had forgotten the paper with his speech but said he’d "figure something out". He made the observation that fashion "helps people to live" and he praised New York, calling the city a center of fashion, a place where fashion is not only something which is enjoyed by the rich, but by everyone.
He thanked Anna for the obviously large part she played in connecting him with "Superheroes, Fashion and Fantasy" though he admitted he was "surprised" to be named as Honorary Chairman, conceding that there was a rather large "contrast" between the tone of the exhibition and the "name Armani". But he also said that it was precisely this contrast that makes it "special and interesting". He laughingly (and perhaps knowingly) said "the curators must have worked hard to find something of his to fit in this exhibit but they succeeded". He also spoke of the trickle down theory inherent in fashion, with his admission that Thierry Mugler’s exaggerated shoulders inspired his own designs, and he thanked the cartoonists from the 30’s and 40’s who "conceived the caricatures", ending with the thought that "the homes from Flash Gordon we live in today". And as fate would have it, by the time he was finished his impromptu speech, he found the paper with his notes ("I’ll use it another time" he joked).
Last up was Andrew Bolton who thanked Anna Wintour, Philippe de Montebello, Harold Koda, and his colleagues, and with whom I had the opportunity to speak. When they first toyed with the idea of this exhibit 5 years ago, the premise was extreme sportswear, performance clothes that literally transform you to a superhero. It later morphed into an exhibition which addresses core issues of body, identity, and transformation, and the connection between fact and fiction (which is diminishing). The best way to describe the items featured is "extreme, phantasmagoric, hard edged, aggressive, overtly sexualized fashion" but perhaps most importantly, the exhibit celebrates the "remarkable creativity and imagination of the designers".
When I asked Andrew to describe the Armani pieces selected, he said that out of the approximately 60, (6 to 8 of which are movie costumes), there were three: a ‘Spider’ dress (in a Spider Man webbed pattern), a menswear piece which has a breast place, and a silver dress with the allusion of armor (in the armored body section). Since the exhibit is all about extreme fashion and fantasy, I was curious as to which pieces, if any, he would label as the most ‘wearable’. Andrew wasted no time in singling out the "Giorgio Armani and John Galliano spider dresses, inspired by the beautifully crafted femme fatale dresses from the 1920’s and 1930’s."
-Marilyn Kirschner
From the Red Carpet:
What a day May 5th proved to be!
As of the date above, The Metropolitan Museum of Art is running one of the most unique exhibits ever seen in a museum: titled "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy", it is dedicated to the intricate web that links Fashion and Super Heroes. It is a must-be-seen display of beautiful gowns and outfits, unique and spectacular backgrounds, all helping to see right away the connection between the two worlds.
"Superheroes are about issues of the body, identity and transformation, about acting your fantasies and transforming yourself into anyone or anything you want to be," said Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton. ?Those are all the things at the heart of fashion."
The highlight of the day was the gala taking place that very evening at the Museum: this red carpet may have never seen a gathering of so many celebrities. They were all there.
George Clooney with Julia Roberts and Giorgio Armani
Photo: Randy Brooke
It started with Giorgio Armani (Honorary Chair) flanked by Co-Chairs George Clooney and Julia Roberts (both wearing Armani, bien sur) and Vogue Editor-In-Chief Anna Wintour, dressed in a beautiful Chanel silver evening gown.
Left: Anna Wintour with daughter
Photo: Randy Brooke
From then on, the outpouring of stars and celebrities went on and on: the fashion world was represented by Donna Karan, Diane Von Furtsenberg, Vera Wang, Donatella Versace, Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld, Kimora Lee Simmons, Zac Posen, Stella Mc Cartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs.... I may be missing a name or two here, the event had a monster turn out. Also spotted was Kelly Klein, as beautiful and as smiling as ever.
Tome Cruise & Katie Holmes
Photo: Randy Brooke
On the celebrities side, Katie Holmes, was her gorgeous self in an amazing coral red Armani dress with husband Tom Cruise (dressed in Armani as well), Beyonce Knowles (Armani), the actress Tilda Swinton in a beautiful Prada gown, Jennifer Lopez (in a pale green and flattering Alberta Ferreti gown) with husband Marc Anthony, Mischa Barton wearing Missoni, Kate Moss, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Ellen Barkin, Eva Mendes (in a Calvin Klein gown), Dita von Teese (wearing Marchesa) Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld (as discreet as ever), Scarlett Johanssen with her engagement ring (but without her fiance) was accompanied by the Dolce and Gabbana (dynamic) duo and wearing one of their gowns, Eva Longoria, actress Kristen Davis (Sex and the City) was beautiful, charming and smiling in a Michael Kors gown, Christine Ricci (why does she insist on wearing odd looking and unflattering outfits?), Josh Jackson and Diane Kruger, Ivanka Trump (dressed by Gilles Mendel), her father Donald and his new wife were also present, Sarah Silverman, Claire Danes, Stephanie Seymour, Fergie, Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen (in Versace) with boyfriend Tom Brady (New England Patriots quarterback)... Jon Bon Jovi (Armani), John Mayer (Armani), Emily Rossum, Blaine Trump, Hillary Duff, Emily Mortimer, Emily Rossum, Naomi Watts, the unavoidable David and Victoria Beckham, Claudia Schiffer, Charlotte Gainsbourg (ah! the French chic in itself is a super power), Janet Jackson and her boyfriend, music producer Jermaine Dupri, Liv Tyler (wearing Calvin Klein), Iman and David Bowie, Natascha Richardson, Michelle Trachtenberg (in a beautiful vintage Yves Saint Laurent dress), Linda Carter with her Wonder Woman cuffs, Venus Williams, model Karolina Kurkova, Kate Bosworth, country music singer Taylor Swift, and the list would not be complete without mentioning the presence of the sexiest woman of them all: actress and former super model Lauren Hutton.
Mayor Michael Bloomberg was also among the guests.
All together, 750 or so guests attended the event. Even for the press only stationed at the entrance and not invited inside, the affair was a party in itself: so many beautifully dressed people, many of them gracious and going along with the obligatory smiles and poses, so that the photographers could take a shot at them, many stopping for short interviews here and there... it was "a zoo" as the saying goes, but a beautiful one.
Everyone seemed to have super powers tonight: Anna Wintour stated that she was Storm, the X Men heroes, "I control the weather" she said. As for Julia Roberts, she is quoted as having said that "it take super powers to stay up that late" (but it was only 7 pm at the time....???). Almost all of the red carpet attendees had super powered outfits that were an homage to what fashion can give its wearers: super power glamour!!
Along with the fabulous exhibit at the Museum, the red carpet event was a (super) powered affair attended by (super) celebrities, (super) stylists and (super) fashion designers...not to mention (super) photographers, (super) press people and journalists, (super) security people who kept the whole affair very well organized and running smoothly.
With Giorgio Armani as (a super) benefactor, (super) Anna Wintour and Vogue, the Metropolitan Museum and the fashion world were honored and celebrated with many people dressed in fantastic outfits that could only be challenged by super heroes powers and outfits! And these could be found right inside, just feet away from the hoopla taking place.
Pow!!!! Bam!!!! Zowie!!!!!!! What a night! And what a beautiful exhibit! Kudos to all involved in the making of the exhibit and the gala, everything was perfect and enchanting to the max... a fairy tale extravanganza fitting for the occasion at hand.
- Muriel Geny-Triffaut
+ 5/06/2008;
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