Thursday, January 15, 2009

"Spring Forward”




The Italian Trade Commission supported the presentation of Spring/Summer 2010 Trends for Moda In, Ideacomo and Prato Expo Tuesday morning (all three host Italy’s finest yarn and fabric manufacturers – spinners, weavers, knitters). Approximately 150 fashion forward guests attended the lecture, slide presentation and breakfast held at Cipriani – Rainbow Room (30 Rock). The overview also included a display of four panels of swatches, prints, accessories and trims representing the themes proposed for Spring/Summer 2010.



Extremism is the buzz word influencing the next season of design. According to trade observers, analysts and sociologists, customers need to be stimulated and enticed during times of economic hardship. Normal is boring. "Maximalist minus (no, it's not a muscle in the body) and minimalist plus are the two main currents driving Spring/Summer 2010,” says Angelo Uslenghi (Trends Committee Coordinator and Forecaster). To further explain; decorative, maximalist looks possess subtle undertones while sober minimalism becomes energetic due to the contribution of organic or advanced techno product. There are no in-betweens going forward. Shoes continue to ‘climb to new heights’ with heels stretching up to six or seven inches! Sorry girls, it seems as though we need to persevere for the sake of fashion. Or do we? Angelo insists that flats, on the other end of the spectrum, will be equally important. Opposites attract in Spring/Summer 2010 and as well all know, the ‘High/Low’ has been working for some time now (think Isaac Mizrahi/Target – not to mention H&M/Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, etc.).



Uslenghi and the Creative Team focus on four major themes for S/S 10: TECHNO ESSENTIALITY, LIGHT RICHNESS, CHIC DYNAMISM and DÉCOR SHOW. These four themes encompass simplicity, complexity, modern activism and fantasy. They play with opposites such as: Fragility and Force, Naturalness and Technology, Moderation and Excess. Some trends and highlights to look for are: mixing, matching and fusing of different motifs, patterns and treatments; suave, sophisticated “new vintage”; chic and “kitsch”; refined Afro/Indian American culture; handmade aspect; kaleidoscope; tailored and elegant gypsy/Bohemian; elaborate, creative accessories.



Fabrics and treatments are most important and help to convey the stories and trends of the season. Silky filament yarns (Cupro will be key) play a big role, as do natural vegetable fibers such as linen, cotton, jute and bamboo. Translucent, sheer fabrics and burnouts coexist with silicone and wax treated cloth. Colors range from fragile and acidic neutrals like absinthe, ice blue and porcelain to rich orangey browns and rusts. Eco-friendly khakis, military greens will make a statement, as well as passionate reds and energetic yellows and turquoise.

-Stacy Lomman

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