DAILY FASHION REPORT

2008-09-05T07:36:00.008-04:00

�Black is the New Black�

19th Century mourning dresses and veils

The Museum at F.I.T. debuted its �Gothic: Dark Glamour� exhibit last night, and there couldn�t have been a better kick off to Fashion Week. People of all ages were decked out in their �Goth� looks which spanned from vintage Victorian to raunchy S & M. I stayed outside for a bit watching the different costumes (or perhaps it was their everyday attire?) appear, coming closer and closer as they finally crossed over 27th Street. I was amazed at how much effort was taken in carefully choosing the perfect outfit. Bill Cunningham was busy snapping photos of some of the �best dressed� and I decided to take a few of my own (however amateur they may be). When I ventured inside, the vibrant atmosphere was like a Halloween party, and after I was introduced to Dr. Valerie Steele (the museum�s curator), I was approached with a tray of martinis. I allowed myself one.

Dr. Valerie Steele donned a gothic Comme des Garcons dress which she accessorized with tiny little ravens in her hair. Ms. Steele and her team assembled a masterful presentation of Gothic inspired pieces dating back to the 19th century. Downstairs, the feeling of gloom and death lingered in the corridor leading into the main space. And I mean that in a good way! The Goth mood was set, and I found myself drawn in by Thierry Mugler�s 1981 silk velvet black dress adorning a chalk white mannequin posed in a coffin. As I stepped into the large room containing the bulk of the exhibit (and the more modern pieces), I immediately saw in front of me what appeared to be a giant, wrought iron bird cage housing a crowd of mannequins. It was magnificent. The overall space was dark and haunting and I felt as though I was in a scene of an old Vampire flick.

Kei Kagama Spring �04 �Homage to Machine Revolution�

This was the museums first exhibition devoted to gothic style. Some of fashion�s greats are often influenced by the Gothic world. McQueen (the King of the corset) has several of his master pieces on display from a faux pony skin corset to violet silk and black lace corset. Galliano was represented with a few ensembles including an exquisite silk crepe and velvet evening dress with glass embellishment for Dior. Also for Dior, is Galliano�s skeleton dress inspired by Mexican Day of the Dead (photo below). Many of the garments were quite recent (within the last season or two), as shown by some of today�s young and edgy names (Giles, Christopher Kane, Rodarte, Undercover and Rick Owens). The last portion in the Gothic collection was a display toward the back boasting a few ensembles by Kei Kagama. Decorated with metal, glass tubes and magnifying glasses, the pieces were sculptural works of art. Perhaps my favorite in this grouping was a simple, elegant dress �shouldering� a painful looking jack.

Rodarte Fall �08, Galliano (for Dior) Fall 2000 and Boudicca Spring �07

It�s clear that designers will always be intrigued by gothic history and ideas, and will provide us with modern, forward, avant-garde and sometimes risqu� apparel. I know I�ll be more than happy to wear it. To be a Goth in the modern world doesn�t mean that one practices satanic rituals and is depressed or angry. On the contrary, Goth�s are typically creative and introspective individuals who find beauty in the dark and the sometimes sad. So, I realized tonight that I must be a Goth -- and not just because of my obsession with Siouxie Sioux in the 80�s.

-Stacy Lomman

2008-09-04T03:07:00.011-04:00

Isabel�s �Fans�

Isabel Toledo

Not all the major �fashion moments� over the next few weeks will take place on a runway or necessarily be in conjunction with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Approximately 380 celebrated �fans� of Isabel Toledo (many wearing her creations) assembled yesterday at a glam benefit luncheon at the Rainbow Room. And I mean �fans� literally, as some of the invited guests cooled down and paid homage to the talented designer with their black, white, red fans, (originally given out about a month ago at a cocktail party �chez� Toledo in celebration of the upcoming award), which were hand painted with the likeness of Isabel by husband Ruben.

Hand painted fan by Ruben Toledo

The occasion? Ms.Toledo, whom Dr. Valerie Steele labeled as �a designer�s designer�, was the recipient of the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT�s 2008 Artistry of Fashion Award. (By the way, Dr. Steele also admitted that �the smartest thing� she ever did was to �start the Couture Council�). Talk about �three times is a charm�; certainly it is for Ms. Toledo. The Cuban born New Jersey native is not only the third recipient of the prestigious award (the first was given to Ralph Rucci and the second, to Alber Elbaz), but it took place on the third of September. And because in Isabel�s case, it seems as though good things come in threes, the culmination of this award will be a major retrospective of Ms. Toledo�s work at The Museum at FIT, entitled �Holy Toledo! Isabel Toledo and the Art of Fashion�, opening June 19, 2009 through September 26, 2009. According to the press release, �The exhibition will feature more than 75 looks dating from 1985 to the present, including fluid jersey dresses, seductive lace, and architectural denim. Illustrations by her husband, artist Ruben Toledo, will also be featured, as will films of Ms. Toledo�s fashion shows and other visuals that explore her creative process. A lavishly illustrated catalogue, written by co-curators Dr. Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears and published by Yale University Press, will accompany the exhibition.�

Simon Doonan, creative director for Barneys New York

Getting back to Wednesday�s event, once again, FIT�s highly anticipated annual gala luncheon (which was sold out and raised approximately $400,000) was hosted by its founding Couture Council chairs Liz Peek, Yaz Hernandez, and Sarah Wolfe, with Honorary Chairs: Harper�s Bazaar�s Editor-in-Chief Glenda Bailey and Nadja Swarovski. (FYI: all invited guests will be mailed a cameo necklace designed by Ruben Toledo with Isabel�s silhouette and signature etched onto an oval Swarovski crystal, specially created by Swarovski for the Couture council). Andre Leon Talley, American Editor-at-Large for Vogue, presented the award, and Simon Doonan, Creative Director for Barneys New York, served as the highly entertaining and irreverent emcee of the event.

FIT's Patricia Mears wearing a Isabel Toledo dress

Talk about fashion star power. Among the bold face fashion/social luminaries who turned out were Narciso Rodriguez, Cathy Hardwick, Kim Hastreiter, Fabiola Beracasa, FIT President Dr. Joyce Brown, FIT Museum Director Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears, Kelly Bensimon, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Stephen Gan, Julie Gilhart, Linda Fargo, Cathy Horyn, Jeffrey Kalinsky, Derek Lam, Boaz Mazor, Paul Cavaco, Josie Natori, Candy Pratts Price, Arnold Scaasi, Peter Som, Dennis Basso, Howard Socol, Stephano Tonchi, Max Vadukul, Michael Vollbracht, Eleanor Ylvisaker, Iris Apfel, Joey Arias, Christine Suppes, Serena Boardman, Sandy Brant, Dawn Brown, and Dr. Patricia Wexler, among others.

Isabel Toledo with Narciso Rodriquez

Dr. Joyce Brown kicked things off with her welcoming address and enthused, �We are the only museum specializing in the art of fashion�. She also observed that there were �too many of fashion�s brightest lights� in attendance, for her to even begin to mention. Simon Doonan wasted no time in heaping praise on the talented designer, referring to her �magical creativity� and putting her in the same category as �the Balenciagas, Alaias, McCardells, and Charles Jameses of the world�. He couldn�t resist noting that while Isabel was born one year after the Cuban Revolution, �the luncheon we�re enjoying today is incredibly Un Communistic�. He narrated a video montage showing Isabel�s life from the time she was a little girl (she began sewing her own clothes at 9) and concluded, �this girl knows more about fashion than anyone, anywhere�. When he came upon an image of one of her earlier lace creations, he said �everyone is talking about lace but Isabel has been exploring lace forever!� He made mention of the �prescience of her clothes� which he labeled as �astounding� in that even decades old designs could easily "jump off fashion pages today�. �The great thing about working with Ruben and Isabel is that you get both of them�.

Right: Glenda Bailey, Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar

Andre Leon Talley took the stage and announced that �Isabel makes clothes women want to wear� and noted that a �childlike wonder defines both Isabel and Ruben�. He admitted telling Isabel, �I want to be like you when I grow up.� (Perhaps someone should tell ALT that he has indeed grown up!). Isabel was gracious and to the point when she accepted her award and said that the most rewarding aspect of being a designer is that �I make a difference; I�m affecting my time.�

Not only was this a glorious affair, which perfectly set the stage for New York Fashion Week, but it was filled with symbolic gestures. Sunflowers (Isabel�s favorite flower) decorated the tables and the menu, (yellow gazpacho followed by Cuban style sea bass with warm mango sauce, coconut rice, and black beans), was Cuban inspired and delicious at that. Joey Arias kicked things off with his rendition of the Billie Holiday song, �You�ve Changed,� dedicated to Isabel. I guess there�s no escaping the word �change� these days, whether it relates to politics, fashion, or life.

Oh, and by the way, speaking of the connection between art and fashion (which is by definition, inherent in everything the Toledos do), the winner of a luncheon raffle will have his/her portrait painted by Ruben, and after the meal was over, all guests were invited to take home the laminated white, black, red placemats on the tables (boasting the face of Isabel) which were handpainted by Ruben.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-09-02T13:36:00.002-04:00

Interview with Ty Yorio of Citadel Security

They are the unsung heroes of Olympus Fashion Week. Ty Yorio leads a team of experienced security professionals who are collectively responsible for making sure that 7th on Sixth�s twice yearly Bryant Park extravaganza runs like a well oiled machine. Our editor Rhonda Erb reports: Click here for the interview

2008-08-15T07:10:00.003-04:00

"Faster than a speeding bullet"...

Even though New York Fashion Week is just weeks away, it�s impossible to think of anything other than the Beijing Summer Olympics these days. That said, because I am well�admittedly fashion obsessed, I can�t help relating everything I see (while I stay tuned to the television coverage of the Olympic events), back to fashion. And since fashion is a part of everything in life, including the world of sports, (especially when it�s on such a grand scale with lots of money to be made in advertisements, endorsements, etc.), that�s easy to do.

As I watched the glorious Opening Ceremonies last Friday evening, and the massive world stage that was on view, I kept thinking how the world of fashion, much like the sports arena, is one place where different cultures and ethnicities are routinely celebrated, and come together and find a common ground. Dries Van Noten has built a reputation on his ability to successfully tap into an international, ethnic chic; Donna Karan�s traveling wanderlust is always evident in her collections; Ralph Rucci, among others, has long looked to the far East for divine inspiration (and after the Beijing games, you can be sure that China will be a point of reference for spring 2009).

The global equation is something that is always very much apart of fashion design, even when it brings with it, a degree of controversy (as in Jean Paul Gaultier�s 1993 �Hasidic� Collection). And how else can you explain the love affair many fashionistas had or have with a tasseled neck scarf which bore a resemblance to the traditional Palestinian Shemagh, (including those of the Jewish faith: I should know�I�m one of them), other than to say it was �proposed� by Nicolas Guesquiere for his fall 2008 collection. Well, okay, so his version, shown with crested schoolboy blazers, crisp button down shirts, and skinny jodhpurs, was much more couture, and much more costly�but still.

And speaking of the Opening Ceremonies; it was hard NOT to notice Ralph Lauren�s pronounced and over scaled white logo sewn onto the natty navy blue blazers worn by the members of the U.S. Olympic team as they marked into the arena. Worn over crisp white shirts, and white pants, and accessorized with white athletic shoes, a jaunty white jockey cap, and a scarf which bore a red stripe (the only hit of color in the ensemble), the pieces exemplified the idea of classic American sportswear. And since we all know that it�s all about advertisement, branding, and commerce these days, many of the aforementioned pieces are available at www.ralphlauren.com, where the homepage gleefully announces: �An official outfitter of the 2008 U.S. Olympic Team�.

Talk about life imitating art. When Andrew Bolton, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art�s Costume Institute, first toyed with the idea of the �Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy� exhibit, the premise was �extreme sportswear, performance clothes that literally transform you to a superhero�. Well, what could possibly be more illustrative of that concept than the Speedo LZR Racer speed suit (www.speedousa.com), worn by Michael Phelps in his quest for 8 gold medals?

In the days, weeks, and months following the �Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy� exhibit back in May, I have seen kids, adults, even dogs, wearing Batman and Superman t�s and there have been endless openings of Super Hero themed movies. But these are only fictional and none can compare with Michael Phelps, a bona fide, real life Superman and Superhero, if ever there was one. And at a time when the fashion world can�t get seem to get enough of heroes, or anything gold (especially if it�s in the form of massive gold necklaces), isn�t it refreshing to see someone wearing them, who actually deserves a medal (or two, or three, or four, or five, etc.?)

Oh, by the way, remember when I said that China will probably be a huge source of inspiration for spring 2009? Well, I think you can assume that swimwear (and perhaps performance sportswear in general), will be a major theme at the upcoming collections.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-08-04T07:19:00.004-04:00

'Accessory' after the Fact

I didn't need the email from IMG Fashion, announcing that, "early registration is nearing an end for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York" to remind me that the spring collections are fast approaching. In fact, I was reminded of the shows (specifically one show) just the other day.

As I was going through my closet, one large bag fell out from a top shelf, and with it, little bits of gold, silver, blue and red 'confetti' stars. It instantly brought back memories of one of Marc Jacobs' shows a few years back, which ended with a shower (actually 'avalanche' is more like it) of those little metallic stars falling from the 'sky' of the New York State Armory. They quickly covered the runway, the models, and the audience. For days and even weeks, they were in my hair, my eyes, and seemed to stubbornly cling to almost every part of my body (I kid you not). No matter how many times I turned my bag upside down and tried to clean it out, the stars would not completely disappear. Talk about a 'memorable' show. By the way, I'm sure you know that Marc is going back to his traditional time slot -- Monday evening at 9 p.m. for his upcoming spring 2009 collection, to be held on September 8th. No more of that last show of the week stuff. (I guess one can also assume the show will be back to it's traditional late late start).

And speaking of the show schedule, can it really be 'that time of year again' ? (Yikes, where did the summer go?) With one month to go, all the major fashion websites have begun to report on news of the upcoming spring collections: the schedule, who is showing and who is not, venue updates, and other bits of useful and (or useless) information and gossip. Though nobody knows exactly what the designers will be proposing for next season, the one thing that is for sure is that September and October promise to be jam packed months for members of the fashion community who make their biannual trek from New York to London, to Milan, and then to Paris.

Of course, the hectic back to back and often conflicting schedule is not the only challenge facing the fashion flock. Ever since the shows were moved down from November to the week after Labor Day, it has posed a number of problems with regards to one's wardrobe. What do you wear when summer is technically over (and you're sick of your summer clothes plus they don't pass muster when you want to look pulled together and chic and not as though you've just left the Hamptons), and yet, it's still downright sultry?

Add to that mix the need to be comfortable, to effortlessly make the transition from day to evening, and factor in the desire (or necessity) to look as though you know what's 'going on' vis-a-vis fashion. Whether that means being 'on trend' for fall 2008 which is now hitting the stores, or staying one step ahead of the pack for spring 2009 (which will be shown on the runways during this time period).

Perhaps the easiest way to make a statement, instantly go from drab to divine, and add instant pizzazz and individuality to even the most basic of basics is through accessories. The transformative powers of accessories can never be overstated; plus, they are 'seasonless' (you can even wear a fur bag with your white jeans). These days, it's seemingly 'all about' accessories (forget 'accessory after the fact' - accessories ARE the fact). And as luck would have it, finding great items (at truly every price) is very easily accomplished.

Coincidentally, this evening, the Accessories Council, (their motto is "Where accessories are necessities" and their mission is to "stimulate consumer awareness and demand for fashion accessory products and to serve as the advocate of the $30 billion accessory business in the U.S."), will play host to a veritable 'Who's Who' in the fashion industry as they host a cocktail soiree, "100 Years of Accessories". The red carpet event, which takes place at Espace, 635 West 42nd Street, is in celebration of 100 Years of Accessories Magazine and will feature an exhibition and video montage highlighting memorable accessory moments from past century. Tickets are $150. For more information, call 212, 947- 1135, or e-mail Deborah@accessoriescouncil.org

Marilyn Kirschner

2008-07-28T11:22:00.009-04:00

�I�ll Have What She�s Having�

Blame it on the heat, or perhaps I�m just having one of those �senior moments�,(LOL I�m kidding of course, I'm not that old but the subject of age has been on my mind as of late), I realized that I left a couple of things out of my most recent blog, �Aging 'Grace�fully�, which are boldly empowering for different reasons and I wanted to share them with you.

While I quoted some of what Tonne Goodman said, in her August Vogue pictorial (regarding the advantages of getting older and tips for looking chic forever), she made some smart, intelligent observations that I thought were �right� on and worth keeping in mind (not just now as we head into the fall shopping season, but always) and so I am reprinting the entire text:

�Once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it. You can choose classic clothes day and night, and you never have to feel the need to embellish yourself in something that you don�t believe in. What you put on is an expression of who you are and how well you know yourself. If you need to have a covered arm, you should wear a covered arm; if you prefer to wear a flat than a heel, then there are great sandals to wear all the time - and a sandal with an evening gown that�s a minimal, simple sheath exemplifies a certain elegance that is understated and confident. Style becomes more important than fashion. What�s the famous thing that Diana Vreeland said? �Elegance is refusal.� It is important to appreciate current events and to be involved, to support the environmentally sound practices going on now, from the fabric used for clothes, to shopping organically and locally, to refusing to use plastic shopping bags. I guess once a hippie, always a hippie. After all, what were we doing back in the sixties? We dressed to make a statement. And it is still vital to do that today".

Secondly, one of the more interesting and compelling (actually, titillating would be a better description), columns in Vogue�s August issue, �The Other Woman at 75�, written by Jane Juska, really has nothing to do with fashion; unless you equate sex with fashion. And, on second thought, of course the two are inextricably related. In fact, Bill Cunningham�s latest �On the Street� column this past Sunday, �Altitude� focused on the popularity of the overtly sexy toweringly high heel and in this particular pictorial, a few of his subjects (how shall I say this delicately?) seem to have more in common with Ashley Dupre (aka Kristen, the woman who brought down Eliot Spitzer ) than say, Anna Wintour, what with their barely there ensembles and teetering heels.

Bill would probably be the first to admit that he has somewhat of a foot fetish, as he can often be seen �studying� and photographing woman�s shoes, and it�s something that has obviously piqued his interest through the years. On The New York Times website (www.nytimes.com/style), there is an audio visual slide show of the weekly column, narrated by Bill himself (one of the paper�s more inspired ideas since he is always amusing, animated, and very natural as he explains in his owns words, the story of the week, and singles out best examples). In this week's installment, he bemusedly describes one of his subjects, (coincidentally striding past 'The Pleasure Chest' in Greenwich Village, with a 'Sex and the City' poster in clear view) clad in a hot pink coat over a black fishnet bodysuit and wearing a pair of very exaggerated black patent platform stilettos. I had to chuckle when he 'diplomatically' theorized that she is "probably a performance artist". FYI, the store was cropped out of the shot used in newspaper.

Anyway, getting back to �The Other Woman at 75�, written by Jane Juska, this is required reading for anyone who balks at the idea that an �older� woman can possibly fall giddyingly in love or who bristles at the notion that a septuagenarian can enjoy a �strong sexual drive�. Juska, (�old enough to know better� in her own words), is disarmingly candid as she goes into detail about her affair with someone else�s husband. She recounts how, after a failed marriage at the age of 37, and a �crushing� affair with a married man which ended at 50, she began advertising for sex in The New York Review of Books at the age of 66. (Talk about a late bloomer). This led to numerous �passionate encounters with all kinds of men�; her liberated exploits became the subject of a memoir, �A Round-Heeled Woman�.

It was at her first book signing in Berkeley, that she met an older, handsome, married man, who has been her bed mate, and most importantly, soul mate, for the past 5 years. She does not seek to glorify, rationalize or condone her actions (the picture she paints has warts and all and she is forthcoming about the disadvantages of such a relationship), nor is she trying to convince others to follow her lead. This is a situation that happens to work, meets her specific needs, and fulfills her life. In case you�re wondering, and no, I am not encouraging you to go out and find someone else�s husband. But in the same way that enjoying fashion and living a stylish life does not have an �expiration date� which ends at a �certain age', finding love and passion is not something that is only for the young.

Center: Roberta Freymann

And speaking of �I�ll have what she�s having�, last week, Roberta Freymann was the 'Hostess with the Mostess' as she opened up her sprawling apartment in a landmark building on the Upper West Side, to members of the press for a 'Christmas in July' champagne breakfast and holiday/resort press preview.

The merchandise, from Roberta Freymann, Roberta Roller Rabbit, as well as a new division that will not launch for several months (and so I will remain mum on what that is), all bore Ms. Freymann's unmistakable luxe eclectic well traveled stamp and ranged from ready to wear and accessories to a wide range of furnishings for the home (votive candles, bamboo placemats, horn dragonfly napkin rings, heart shaped espresso spoon sets, bold and graphically patterned textiles, etc).

Standouts included updated, more graphic, modern art inspired versions of her now famous wine drop bejeweled collars (Roberta was wearing one herself), jewel toned jewel-encrusted belts (both of which are made by the same Argentinian artist), luxuriously massive fringed scarves,

and a duo of suede fringed 'Flapper' dresses in chic gray and tobacco which were an editor's favorite (since many seemed to be eyeing them enviably). But while the selection was enticing for sure, from my New York point of view, nothing was as personally covetable as Ms. Freymann's own grand, art filled apartment.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-07-22T07:20:00.003-04:00

Aging �Grace�fully

"The old gray mare, she ain�t what she used to be"; "Long in the tooth"�.If I appear to have horses on my mind, you�re right (and if you read my upcoming Member�s Report, you�ll learn why). As for the age issue�it�s on everyone�s mind these days and that includes Vogue Magazine, who has traditionally turned their August issue into an �age issue�. Sandwiched in between the thin July book, and right before their giant September blockbuster, Anna (nearing 60 herself) has apparently decided that there is no better time to focus on the subject of age while hawking new fall clothes and accessories.

Undoubtedly, dressing �age appropriate� (whatever that means), and choosing clothes that flatter and look stylish, if you are over a certain age, is a challenge for many (though I for one, don�t think it�s as challenging as finding amazing items at affordable prices). Aha� Vogue wanted to tackle that too, judging by their cover lines which read, "The age(less) issue..Vogue�s guide to looking amazing at every decade, on any budget, through every season". Tall order.
But I will say that I found the issue to be well done, and one portfolio was particularly inspired. After the fall collections were over, Anna Wintour asked five Vogue fashion editors, each with her own look and style, and each representing a different decade (Grace Coddington, 60�s; Tonne Goodman 50�s; Elissa Santisi, 40�s; Marie Amelie Sauve, 30�s; Tabitha Simmons, 20�s) what they will wear this fall, how they�ll wear it, and why. They were then asked to style models in their own image.

Hands down the best spread was Grace Coddington, "Graceful Elegance� (photographed by Steven Meisel). With the help of a glorious wild mane of red hair, her zany cats (Coddington�s admitted favorite accessories), and an almost all black �fuss free� wardrobe which included a chic Balenciaga cocoon coat, a Marni embroidered dress, a Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons long gown, and a Proenza Schouler gray coat, model Karen Elson was transformed into an almost spitting image of the celebrated editor (maybe a bit younger but very believable nonetheless and I have to admit that I initially thought it was Grace herself, courtesy amazing makeup).
The second �runner up� was Tonne Goodman, (�Clean Conscience� also photographed by Meisel), who selected model Tanya Dziahileva to portray her in the signature minimalistic yet luxurious basics that remain very true to Goodman�s aesthetic.

There are many ways to tackle the problem of dressing for one�s age, and no wrongs or rights, (this is not an exact science and in the end, one has to follow one�s own instincts and stay true to oneself). Having said that, you could do a lot worse than to take some helpful hints and pointers from pros who admittedly spend their professional lives looking at clothes. For example: Grace Coddington says she "doesn�t feel obliged to buy a lot of new things" but always gets "a coat" each season; Elissa Santisi strives for "the perfect balance between youthful attitude and grown up glamour"; Marie Amelie Sauve claims she will "never wear anything that�s overtly sexy" and prefers "sexy in a conceptual way" (hence, she will pair a sexy dress, like the fetching Martin Margiela which is shown on the Vogue pages) with flats; Tabitha Simmons admits the "only rule in your 20�s is that there are no rules" (ah�to be 20 again!); and Tonne Goodman believes in buying clothes that "will last an eternity" and observes, "there is an intelligence to classic, enduring design. It is never superficial". But perhaps her best remark was, "once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it."

I think it�s safe to say many women out there would be interested to know what fashion editors select for themselves, and personalizing the pages- which included illustrations, photographs, quotes, etc. - was compelling. What was missing was Anna Wintour herself. Though I don�t think she would have agreed to take part in a portfolio where she dressed a model in her own image (LOL), I think her readers would have liked to know what her fall choices might be.

Another standout portfolio was �The Firecraker� photographed by Jonathan Becker, featuring the fabulous looking Roberta McCain, the rule breaking inspirational 96 year old mother of John McCain. It is really hard to believe she is nearing 100 and quite frankly, she looks more youthful than Gwyneth Paltrow, who appears in a double page spread, for a Tod�s advertisement. I had to look twice to make sure it was indeed the actress.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-07-18T10:27:00.004-04:00

Better Bets! Number 4

Rhonda Erb's new bi-weekly column on discovering the new and interesting in New York retail, beauty, fashion, accessories and events.

2008-07-15T16:31:00.009-04:00

�I (Don�t) Feel Bad About My Neck�

Roberta Freymann's stone encrusted bib

Nora Ephron humorously pointed out that the neck is one part of the body that does not age too well and let�s face it, most of us don�t exactly resemble Audrey Hepburn in that - or any other - department. But if you seriously don�t love your neck, you�re in luck.

How could you possibly feel bad about your neck when there are so many fashionable ways to hide, cover, or camouflage it? Of course, why just stop at the neck? If you, like myself, tuned in to the Miss Universe contest this past Sunday night (which amounted to watching a two hour parade of the world�s most glorious creatures with impossibly perfect bodies) it would have been hard to wake up on Monday morning and feel good about any part of yourself�. but that�s another story.

Long before Nicolas Guesquiere seduced an entire generation into totally obscuring their necks with tightly wound long lengths of decidedly ethnic fringed and sometimes coin decorated scarves (which he made all the more hip and au courant when paired with shrunken schoolboy blazers and skinny jodhpurs for fall 2007), I was covering my neck with mufflers, scarves, turtlenecks, starched shirt collars, etc. And while this is not only easy, practical, and necessary in the cold winter months, I have been known to apply the same tactics year round, raiding my drawers for favorite vintage Hermes and Pucci silk squares, long, narrow Missonis, and YSL cotton voiles. And then of course, there are the necklaces and neck pieces.

Unless you�re living under rock, you already know that multi strands of pearls, bold chains, and especially, statement making necklaces, are de rigueur as of late. Designers (not the least of whom is Miuccia Prada) are even creating clothing (dresses and tops) complete with jewel encrusted collars, necklaces, and necklines. In fact, Richard Chai�s debut collaboration for www.target.com next month features a wonderfully graphic cotton tunic with a jewel encrusted top, which will sell for about $50.

All of the above examples are an easy way to add instant pizzazz and surface interest (particularly to simple classic pieces), and they do wonders for a neck that can use a bit of obscuring. And as luck would have it, there is a shopping destination right here in New York where one can find some of the most distinctive examples around: Roberta Freymann, 153 East 70th Street, 212 585 3767, http://www.roberta-freymann.com/ .

Ms. Freymann�s colorful, richly bohemian, and thoroughly addictive eponymous shop, has an unapologetically global, Eastern (particularly India) flavor. It�s filled with surprisingly well priced caftans, paisley print silk scarves, resin bangles, etc., and shopping there is like taking a trip to an exotic locale without having to leave town or spend money on airfare. A passionate world traveler and collector with an amazing eye, she boasts an impressive resume and is lucky enough to be doing what she loves most. She not only has an ever growing and loyal customer base (including some of the city�s most glamorous and high profile gals around town), but an ever growing empire. In addition to her two story east 70th street shop (which is housed in a landmark building), she opened Roberta Roller Rabbit, (1019 Lexington Avenue) a few years ago (it is stocked with apparel and linens made from Indian block print fabrics), and several years ago, she added an outpost in Easthampton (66 Newtown Lane, 631 329 5828).

Because I am always on the lookout for amazing necklaces and clothing with unusual neck �treatments� (especially those that are cleverly designed and highly wearable), I was immediately drawn to the ornate semiprecious stone-encrusted bib necklaces which are made in India and strung on a gilded silk cord (they range in price from $200 - $250). Not only are they beautiful and eye catching but they are available in many different varieties and colorations and I can attest to the fact that it�s virtually impossible to pick just one. Because they are very lightweight, and imminently packable, they are perfect for taking away for a summer weekend jaunt (or on any trip at all). And since they are adjustable to choker length or a bit longer, they can be worn in a dizzying variety of ways: to dress up a simple cotton t shirt, add interest to the neckline of a simple shift or chemise, or tied under the collar of a shirt or shirt dress. Talk about versatile!

Similarly, I was taken by the $250 sleeveless heavy stretch satin top whose neckline is embroidered with tiny pearls, beads, and sequins. Available in red, yellow, royal blue (my favorite), and gray, this would not only look great paired with white jeans (or any jeans for that matter), but worn with shorts, Bermudas, or a skirt in any shape or length. For press inquiries: contact Dennis Gleason, Company Agenda at dennis@companyagenda.com.

Collectibles by Madge Novel

Speaking about statement making necklaces, if your penchant is unique, one of a kind collectibles (with an art deco flavor), have I got a vintage dealer for you! Madge Novel is a native New Yorker who resides in Washington D.C. She has always been both creative and good with her hands and originally wanted to be a fashion illustrator. She attended the School of Visual Arts and the Traphagen School of Fashion in Manhattan. At one point, she dabbled in making (and selling) her own line of jewelry (which landed her in New York Magazine�s Best Bets). She also knitted her own sweaters (in the 80�s, Joan Vass invited her to knit for her after seeing her wear one of her unusual designs).

Collectibles by Madge Novel

An incurable collector with a discerning eye, she, like Ms. Freymann, has turned her hobby and her passion, into a business and has amassed loyal customers and fans along the way. Her enviable collection of whimsical and iconic Enid Collins bags, was spotlighted in last June�s issue of �Country Home� Magazine, but Ms. Novel admits that jewelry is the major focus of her collection (prices range from about $100 - $400). Last year, she collaborated with good friend, Julie Wolfe, who designs interesting jewelry for Barney�s and Harvey Nichols (she did some �picking� for her and sold her a number of her own rhinestone pieces which she incorporated into her designs).

Collectibles by Madge Novel

Recently, Julie sent the photos of some of those pieces to Vogue, and they are considering using them on the resort pages in the November issue. In addition, the manager of Ralph Lauren in Washington, D.C. �flipped over� some of Madge�s deco turquoise necklaces and has been trying to convince the Ralph Lauren General Manager to do a trunk show with some of her things.

Signed pieces by Mirian Haskell & Elsa Schiaparelli

While she has a fondness for Miriam Haskell and Elsa Schiaparelli, Ms. Novel says she is �not at all concerned whether pieces are signed or by well known designers or even from a particular period�. �I buy what I love. I go by my own aesthetic instinct and it seems to work. It's the mix of pieces that I find exciting and that creates the look.�

For the time being, she can be contacted via her e-mail address: madgenovel02@comcast.net, but will soon be establishing a website and has plans to open an online store on "Trocadero" an online mall. If someone is interested in seeing her collection (which she describes as �ever-changing�) she can send pictures or meet with them whether in Washington or New York.

Right now, she is doing the FIFI venue in Washington but will eventually do other shows in New York. In addition, Madge will do personal shopping for pieces and is always interested in buying.

So, in the same way that you don�t need to resort to a surgical neck lift (if you don�t like your neck you can simply indulge in some pretty fabulous accessories), you don�t need to resort to a painful and expensive boob lift you can simply buy a new fashion gadget. Bralief (www.bralief.com) promises to �provide an alternative to surgery� while improving posture, while giving you an instant breast lift, and preventing the straps from falling off. All for the low price of $9.95 each or $22.95 for a pack of three. Available in black, tan, white, and pink and white, the proceeds of the net sales will be donated to Breast Cancer Research.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-07-07T14:55:00.003-04:00

Panel Discussion: Why Are So Many of Today's Fashion Editors So Young?

Several of the editors and writers at LOL were taking a coffee break in between shows during NY fashion week a number of years back, when one person suddenly asked,"Why are so many of today's fashion editors young? Is this good or bad for fashion?" LOL decided to investigate. We surveyed members of the fashion community to get their take. Some of them have been in the business for as little as three years and others for more than 20. The one thing they had in common: interesting, bold opinions. So, are young fashion editors good or bad for the fashion industry? Go to http://lookonline.com/panel.html and judge for yourself.

(Editor's note: This discussion was held in 1998. It is as true today as when we first wrote this article.)

2008-06-09T07:24:00.008-04:00

Troubling 'Times�

Forever 21 black and white spectator �Ollie� oxford pumps

Just when you thought the economic outlook could not get any worse, the Dow Jones plummeted, the unemployment rate surged to an all time high rate of 5.5 percent, and the price of oil rose to a record breaking $140 a barrel. To say this is a difficult time for businesses of all kinds (particularly fashion retail), is an understatement.

And so it couldn�t have more perfect timing for �Retail�s Moment of Redefinition� (in the consumer century), last week�s Fashion Group International event which gave new meaning to the phrase, �retail therapy�. The mission of this reception, luncheon, and presentation, was to explore why merchandising for a mass consumer audience no longer works, forecast business for the remainder of the decade, to examine the ever changing shopping habits of the consumer, the effects of globalization on the market place, and the way in which the current recession is impacting on retail.

The highlight of the event was a panel discussion moderated by Joyce Greenberg, Managing Director, Financo, INC, with panelists Rick Darling, President, LI & Fung, Chris Lee, Senior Vice President, Forever 21 (which Ms. Greenberg hailed as the �king of U.S. fashion with huge global aspirations�), and Diane Hamilton, President & COO, Brooks Brothers (�THE iconic brand� according to Ms. Greenberg).

To kick things off, Robin Lewis, Vice President, Head of Retail Vertical, Vantage Marketplace LLC, delivered his �Economic Overview�. While it was dubbed ominously, "The Perfect Storm� (he explained that currently, there are three weather fronts colliding for that �perfect storm�: 1- Sub prime mortgage meltdown, 2-Decelerating GDP Growth, 3-Decelerating income), he was intent on injecting some lightheartedness into the sobering proceedings, seemed intent on seeing that fictional glass �half full� and repeatedly sought to find some �good news� within the bad.. For example, when he was first introduced, he joked that �the good news is that I�m not an accountant� and when he quoted Alan Greenspan, who reported that there�s a �better than 50% chance" we are headed for a recession, Mr. Lewis noted that �we might avoid a technical recession�. And even if we don�t, the �good news� is that we will �finally get rid of some of the excess and reach a balance between supply and demand�.

But perhaps the key point he made is that �the consumer is in charge� and he outlined some behavioral shifts the retailer should understand (these were displayed in large letters on a monitor behind him, summarzied as �From� and �To�). The way he sees it, the shift is �from� needing stuff �to� demanding experiences, �from� conformity �to� customization, �from� plutocracy �to� democracy, �from� new �to� new and now�. That�s where the idea of �fast fashion� comes in. As he observed, �It�s a Zaro world and a Forever 21 world. It�s an Internet world, and it�s a world of new products and new services 24/7�.

He then listed 6 key points for an �Emerging New Business Mode� (1- Traditional retail is evolving to a hybrid specialty chain model, 2- There are 'mini' formats for many neighborhoods (the internet, catalogue, and other direct channels of opportunity), 3-Traditional wholesalers are integrating forward, 4- Niche branding by specialty chain brands, 5- Accelerated brand proliferation and new lifestyle cycles (continuous rapid innovation and differentiation), 6- Going global. And then he announced a "new business paradigm" which is exemplified by the fact that the �the consumer has the power of access and control and the supplier has need for access and control� .

This was a perfect segue into the panel discussion that followed. Rick Darling enumerated on four major trends which are making a difference: 1- "globalization of sourcing, 2- the economies of the world are very much in sync, 3- international retailers are entering markets they had once been afraid to enter; 4- it's all about differentiation (exclusive brands for retailers). Chris Lee proudly described Forever 21, founded in 1984, as a "fast food department store", somewhat akin to a "candy store" with "Wal-Mart prices". They made 1.3 billion last year and their goal is to "get the best merchandise as quickly as possible" and as such, they compete with H&M and Target. When asked asked by a member of the audience if there is a 'target' age group, he wisely answered that "the 21st century is about lifstyle, it's not about age." Indeed it is. My most favorite recent purchase was acquired through www.forever21.com. They are a pair of wonderfully distinctive black and white spectator �Ollie� oxford pumps which are comfortable enough to really walk in since they sport a chunky 1 1/2 inch heel, never fail to illicit compliments, and cost a mere $20. Now, that's what I call �retail therapy�, recession or not.

As part of their expansion plans, they are building malls in South Korea and getting more into menswear (this will give the guys who shop with their girlfriends, wives, etc., something to buy.

Expansion plans also figure prominently in Brooks Brother's future. According to Diane Hamilton, it's all about "the history of a true American icon" (the company was founded in 1818 and they are celebrating their 190th anniversary). She admits the biggest challenge she is faced with is how to "redefine an iconic brand" which is known for offering a "high quality product at good value for our customers". Ms. Hamilton admitted that attempts to change it's identity in the 70's, 80's, and 90's were unsuccessful. She said the new Black Fleece Collection by Thome Browne, (a "better luxury brand") is doing well, and so are the brand's 100 regular price retail stores in the U.S. (though outlet business "continues to be strong"). In the final analysis, it's customer relationships that are "major" .Happily, their customer has "given them the go ahead to expand brands" (so expect to see men's and women's fragrances, among other things, in the future).

A New York Times Gaffe...

By the way, speaking of troubling 'times' (and in this case I mean that literally)...perhaps one can blame it on disorientation caused by the horrible state of the economy, the suffering heat wave, or the distraction of two climbers who (within two hours) �scaled� the heights of The New York Times building on Friday�.but still, none of the above can explain or condone the glaring typo that I found in the Evening Hours section of �Sunday Styles�. In the -column showing pictures from last Monday�s CFDA Awards, one guest, Mara Hutton was described as wearing a �vintage Jeffrey Beene�. We all make mistakes for sure�but how someone at the NYT did not catch this is unbelievable. I showed this to a friend who is not even involved in the fashion business, and she caught the mistake immediately. I'm sure there were a lot of red faces on Sunday morning -- and not from the heat of the day.

- Marilyn Kirschner

2008-06-03T14:40:00.013-04:00

�I knew Yves Saint Laurent, and you�re no Yves Saint Laurent�

There was only one Yves Saint Laurent and there will never be another. While there are talents and visionaries to be sure (and a new generation of promising torch bearers), sadly, too many of today�s �designers� don�t deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as Yves, Unfortunately, some are little more than overly hyped pretty boy (or girl) posers, egocentric control freaks with no talent, and blatant copycats with no original thoughts of their own (but who have at their disposal powerful publicists with lots of muscle).

And talk about timing. As if to heighten this reality and exaggerate the situation, on Monday evening, just as the eyes of the fashion world were to be focused on the �best of the best� (the honorees, nominees, and recipients of the 2008 CFDA Awards), the one name that loomed large over the New York Public Library, casting its magic spell, was that of Yves Saint Laurent.

Diane von Furstenberg in a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit

So influential and revered was this fashion legend, that WWD needed two consecutive issues (on Monday and Tuesday) to cover the news of his death, and chronicle his life and legacy. In addition to quotes from designers, social figures, and celebrities, who weighed in on what Yves meant to them, WWD ran some of YSL�s musings through the years. My favorites included:

�So they have crowned me king. Look what happened to all the other kings in France.� 1968

�In the future, men and women will dress more and more alike. I want to create clothes for women like men�s clothes.� 1968

�Classics continue all the time because they have style, not �fashion.�� 1981

�I have said before that the most beautiful makeup of a woman is passion. But cosmetics are easier to buy.� 1978

�I�m happy to be copied, otherwise I wouldn�t be doing my job well.� 1998; �I have always done black. I don�t do �message� couture.� 1968

�What a woman needs is a black turtleneck sweater, a straight skirt and a man to love her.�, 1989

His chic, elegant, intelligent muse was one who exhibited strength of character and true personal style and, as such, could not be more further removed from the self consciously mass produced, �sexy� IT bag, stiletto heeled trio starring in �Sex and the City�, (a movie which met with rather unfavorable reviews but nonetheless found itself in first place after d�buting this weekend. Further proof that public taste is, well, questionable at best).

With his innate fashion radar, faultless taste level, brilliant color sense, and master�s eye, Yves elevated street wear to couture and perfected wardrobe basics like trench coats, pea jackets, trousers and sweaters, bow tie blouses, safari shirts, black turtlenecks, leopard prints. Sounds like your closet? It sure sounds like mine. Speaking of which, would somebody please �reinterpret� that iconic lace-up safari shirt modeled by Betty Catroux? (Actually, didn�t Banana Republic come out with one several years ago? Maybe it�s time to do it again!)

As if to perfectly illustrate the inherent modernity and �forever� appeal of what Yves has proposed through the decades, all those attendees at the CFDA Awards who apparently changed their minds at the last moment and chose to pay homage to the designer by wearing vintage YSL or something in keeping with his fashion credo, not only looked better than anyone else but, looked better than ever. That includes Naomi Campbell in a vintage YSL long sleeved black sheer blouse and very au courant black pailleted �harem� pants; Carolina Herrera in a white �le smoking� of her own design; Ashley Olsen (who normally looks like a sad sack but looked terrific and pulled together in a Calvin Klein Collection black �le smoking� worn with a white shirt); and, last but not least, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who eschewed her signature busy prints in favor of a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit. The androgyny of the pantsuit offset her curly mane perfectly and quite frankly, it�s the best I�ve seen her look in a long time. What a fitting tribute and testimony.

While the evening witnessed a true mixed bag in terms of fashion statements, one woman who was a disappointment to me was Anna Wintour. The editor-in-chief has her pick of anything and everything yet, I found her dress label unknown though I assume it�s by an American designer) to be rather boring and unexciting. Though she is always consistent, which is fine, I would love to see her break the mold just once and go against type. With her severe bob, she would have looked amazing clad in a fabulous tuxedo pantsuit with her nude nails painted red. Tres chic!

Mark my words, Yves Saint Laurent and his legend will loom large over the spring 2009 collections shown in the fall and there will be renewed interest in chic tailleur and timeless classics.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-06-03T09:35:00.015-04:00

CFDA 2008 Fashion Awards

Photos from the Red Carpet by Randy Brooke.

Anna Wintour

This year the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards was sponsored by Swarovski. Monday was sunny and balmy but crystals and purple rained on the red carpet that evening. One of the first to arrive was Miss Swarovski in an all black cocktail dress and her signature crystals worn as accessories. Many of the guests honored the official sponsor of this year's event by wearing the famous crystals as well.

Marc Jacobs & Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham was wearing a Marc Jacobs (very) short dress made of a myriad of black applique organdi hearts. Carolina Herrera was in an all white tuxedo suit, while Lauren Hutton wore an all grey jumpsuit and cover-up. Eva Longoria-Parker sported a cocktail dress of a pale raspberry fabric adorned with off-white beads at the bustier line. Eva Mendes was elegant in her long and sleek white gown by Francesco Costa.

Ralph Lauren & Wife

Mrs. Ralph Lauren wore a graceful long and pale blue dress adorned with delicate flowers. Maggie Gyllenwaal was in a green-and-black checkerboard tunic by Proenza Schouler. Emcee of the evening Fran Lebowitz wore an all-white tuxedo from "her favorite London tailors". As for CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, she wore a vintage Yves Saint Laurent black tuxedo, paying a vibrant homage to the designer who just passed away. Anna Wintour was in a short gold lame cocktail dress.

Stan Herman & Lauren Hutton

And speaking of the men, Isaac Mizrahi wore a black tuxedo, waxed hair and shiny black sandals that showed his painted toenails while Tom Ford, elegant as usual, wore a black tuxedo and white shirt. And Stan Herman just looked great -- also as usual.

Carol Alt

The M.O. of the night had to be "purple". Seen wearing the color were Erin Lauder in a flowing short purple dress, Carol Alt in a long purple gown with a side slit, Amy Poehler (Saturday Night Live) in a purple dress with flowers cascading down . Lil' Kim wore a short purple dress cinched at the waist while Behnaz Sarapfour wore a stunning purple dress. Hillary Duff wore a sequined purple dress by Michael Kors, Tory Burch sported a long purple dress of her own design, Diana Taylor in a Ralph Lauren design. It was a purple rain, no less. The color was almost everywhere, either as the main color of the outfit or as an accessory.

Hillary Duff

In this writer's opinion, the most outstanding dress had to be the one worn by Hillary Duff. Michael Kors' design was simple, yet highly effective. The combination of the fabric and the clinging lines made for a beautiful, elegant and very sexy dress that Ms Duff wore very well.

Unfortunately, the worst part of the evening was the relatively small space allocated to the working press and the lack of help or directions when I first checked in. I struggled just to keep my "PRESS" sticker from falling off me.

Mayor Michael Bloomberg & Diana Taylor

So if you have not heard already, the winners of this year's CFDA awards are : Francesco Costa (womenswear designer for the second time, quite an achievement),Tom Ford (for menswear) Tory Burch (for accessories). As for Carolina Herrera, she accepted an award for her lifetime contribution to the industry. Candy Pratts Price received this year's Eugenia Sheppard Award. The International Award went to Dries Van Noten, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg was given the CFDA's Board of Directors' Special Tribute. The Swarovski awards for emerging talent went to Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte for Womenswear, Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders for Menswear and Philip Crangi for Accessory Design.

- Muriel Geny-Triffaut

2008-05-28T07:44:00.017-04:00

"Arbiters of Style"

From Left: Garbrielle 'Coco' Chanel, Mme Gres & Diane von Furstenberg
(All Photos: Randy Brooke)

Ah�.style! It�s something that (in certain circles) is highly sought after, elusive, undeniably hard to define and harder still to possess. To many an �expert�s� way of thinking, it�s something you either have, or you don�t. Style is a favored, almost magical word within the fashion world, where it�s often bantered around, used and abused. To wit, there is a fashion magazine named �InStyle�, there�s a highly influential website, Style.com, The New York Times has not one but two �Style� sections (one on Thursday and the other on Sunday), and the word �style� is routinely used in fashion advertisements and in fashion magazines, where it�s emblazoned on covers and used within editorial pages.

In fact, �The Secrets of Style� screams out in large royal blue letters on Harper�s Bazaar�s June cover (which features Nicole Ritchie as its �stylish� cover girl) and in the last paragraph of her Editor�s Letter this month, Glenda Bailey observes that �true style is never about the pieces you buy each season: it�s about the pieces you wear every season.� Certainly, if you use this definition as the barometer of what constitutes true style, and see it as the necessary ingredient for being a �style arbiter� (which the Museum at FIT defines as a �tastemaker, whether publicly anointed or self proclaimed, who has the authority to judge and dictate what is fashionable�), there is almost no woman who so epitomizes the idea of a style arbiter as the late rule breaking Diana Vreeland.

So it shouldn�t be surprising that two of Diana Vreeland�s outfits greet you as you enter the Museum of FIT�s galleries, which house their brand new exhibit, �Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion� (For the record, one is a printed and heavily bejeweled Oscar de la Renta caftan and the other, an acid green Mila Schon skirt suit both of which were gifts to the Museum at FIT from DV and illustrate two distinctly different sides of the style icon).

Miuccia Prada's �Fairy� printed silk pajamas

The exhibit�s organizers, Molly Sorkin and Colleen Hill, along with Fred Dennis, Clare Sauro, Harumi Hotta, Lyn Weidner and Chief Curator, Dr. Valerie Steele were on hand for last Wednesday�s morning press preview. Ms. Sorkin and Ms. Hill admitted that when they began assembling the exhibit, they were struck by the way in which everything was �interconnected� (meaning, women designers wore other women designers� designs, they were inspired by their clients, etc.) and the effects of globalization. They felt strongly about starting off with Diana Vreeland because she was such an �influential woman in fashion� and similarly, they hailed Miuccia Prada as the �quintessential woman designer of today� which is presumably why they ended with Miuccia�s signature �Fairy� printed silk pajamas from spring 2008.

Designs by Andre Courreges & Marc Bohen for Christian Dior

The exhibit, comprised of approximately 70 looks (clothing and accessories) dating from the 18th century up to the present (there are several outfits from fall 2008) has the distinction of being the first chronological survey focusing on female designers (Coco Chanel, Donna Karan, Vivienne Westwood, fashionable socialites (Isabel Eberstadt, Jane Holzer, models (Marina Schiano, Penelope Tree), fashion journalists and photographers (Diana Vreeland, Despina Messinesi, Louise Dahl- Wolfe), 20th century female executives (Rose Marie Bravo), and clientele who have �shaped fashion�s course for more than 250 years�. The works of only a handful of male designers (Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Yves St. Laurent, Courreges, Geoffrey Beene, Emilio Pucci) were included only as a way to view their �important clients and muses�. And so, as you walk through the rooms, you will see a Halston jumpsuit �worn� by Lauren Bacall, a dramatic black Givenchy gown with a �frontless� coat and Courreges skirt suit (from his first collection) �worn� by Isabel Eberstadt, an Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche �power suit� �worn� by Rose Marie Bravo, a Christian Dior dress and an Emilio Pucci ensemble �worn� by Jane Holzer, etc.).

Collections of Lyn Devon & Ann Demeulemeester

The designs were selected by virtue of their importance, interest, and �significance� and include an interesting mix of names from up and coming talent (like Lyn Devon and the designing duo behind the label Rodarte), avante-garde legends (Ann Demeulemeester, Rei Kawakubo, Vivienne Westwood), American �royalty� both past and present (Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Donna Karan, Carolyne Roehm, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang), and of course, some of the most hallowed labels in fashion history (exemplified by Gabrielle �Coco� Chanel, Mme. Gres, Elsa Schiaparelli). The one thing that struck me as I walked through the exhibit, was the timelessness and modernity of great design. Donna Karan�s draped black jersey dress from 1987 could have easily stepped off this season�s runway, and the same can be said of dozens of other items on view, including the Chanel suit and Madame Gres evening ensemble, which made their �debuts� many decades before the Diane Von Furstenberg gown from fall 2008 that they were standing beside. Great design does not have an expiration date. Much like great style.

The exhibition runs through November 8th.

Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion
The Museum at FIT is located on the southwest corner of Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. Exhibition hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays. Admission is free. For museum information call (212) 217-4558 or go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum. For further press information, contact the Office of Communications and External Relations at (212) 217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu. Visuals are available upon request via mail or e-mail.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-05-27T08:32:00.003-04:00

Better Bets #2
Discovering the Best in New York

Mambo Bag by Tagua

Ronda Erb's new bi-weekly column on discovering the new and interesting in New York retail, beauty, fashion, accessories and events. Click here to read here column.

2008-05-24T07:22:00.011-04:00

Rootstein Mannequins Party

Last Thursday night marked another high moment in the New York fashion scene: the unveiling and exhibit of the world famous British mannequin company Rootstein Mannequins in New York City. This time around, Rootstein has selected British cover girl Agyness Deyn to be the featured model. She follows in a line of famous cover girls used by Rootstein going all the way back to Twiggy.

According to Rootstein Creative Director Kevin Arpino, the choice of Agyness Deyn made perfect sense: �Rootstein has had a long history of predicting the decades most influential visages and we felt that Agyness embodies the look of the first decade of this century. Her style and mannerisms both on and off the runway, as well as her fabulous physique, made her the perfect choice to be immortalized as a mannequin.

The showroom was clad with replicas of Agyness Deyn sporting outfits that highlighted the actual trends in fashion: Doc Martins candy colored shoes were used and it resulted in an odd but fascinating look. Nothing like a pair of pink Doc Martens shoes combined with a neon colored feathered vest and metallic looking pink pants to rethink many notions about fashion style rules. Along with brightly colored outfits, black ones were also prevalent, as was lace, decidedly the most important new trend of the upcoming season.

Platforms were set to display some of the mannequins that, at times, seemed to have a life of their own. They were displayed high and low, some on pedestals, others in neon framed open boxes that matched the color of their outfits. Some of them were dressed in all over black and were either seated or standing, resulting in a strange and beautiful display. Most of the standing mannequins held a neon colored tube or some sort of spear. It made for a very alluring atmosphere, something that was at the same time dark and bright.

MAO Public Relations produced this very well-attended opening party in Chelsea that saw many coming to admire the display of elaborately dressed mannequins set against a very dark and black background (estimated crowd of about 500). Guests were invited to wear plastic rings that flashed intermittent colored lights at the press of a button. With all these rings flashing, it brought a novel twist that helped set a fun and whimsical tone to an already different-from-the-usual party.

Seen at the party were fashion designers John Bartlett, Stephen Burrows, and Bill Dugan (who worked many years with Halston). Of course the downtown divas from Paper Magazine were also there, as well as a reporter from The New Yorker. Diversity and creativity was the modus operandi of the night with this crowd. Overall, the beautiful, interesting and creatively dressed people that were present were as much a part of the decor as the displayed mannequins.

-Muriel Genny-Triffaut

2008-05-23T08:45:00.010-04:00

The Makeup Show NYC

The Makeup Show 2008 held in New York City on May 18 and 19 was a perfect occasion to check out trends as well as new concepts and innovative products. The high number of companies present was impressive as was the quality of products offered.

The showroom was filled with many well known brands adorning the floor and newcomers eager to make a difference in a highly competitive market. The booklet available at the entrance listed no less than 71 brands having stands or booths. It also offered high quality workshops and seminars equally interesting to the professional as well as the clients eager to know more about tips and methods to achieve a well sought result: unblemished beauty.

Keynote and business forums were plentiful, with, for instance, Sandy Linter presenting on behalf of Lancome "A Career in MakeUp" (Sunday May 18). Hands-on workshops were also offered each day. Dominic Cruz for Kryolan conducted on Monday a workshop related to "Makeup for the Mature Skin". Renowned makeup star Linda Mason offered valuable tips and techniques to achieve her famous "eye candy" look.

One of the more interesting workshops was the one conducted by Sarah Lucero for Stila Cosmetics that covered what the trend in makeup is all about for the fall of 2008. Ms Lucero said that lipstick is finally back in rich luscious colors such as coral and deep hued pink with a neon twist, a memento of the eighties. As to gloss lipstick, it is bound to take a back seat for the upcoming season. Skin should look natural (hurray!!) and blushes play a major part with highly pigmented colors such as cherry. As for the eyes, it is all about matte, shine, glitter and sparkles are left in the past.

Between the brands present and the workshops and seminars, it was a whirlwind of makeup everywhere and accessories such as professional makeup cases, brushes, even wigs that allowed just about everyone, professionals and shoppers to find something worth having and/or knowing about. The big players were there as well, with brands like Mac, Cover Girl, Stila Cosmetics and Lancome showing appealing stands displaying well known and favorite products. Makeovers were offered here and there, making the whole thing a very enjoyable experience.

A number of booths were offering airbrushed makeup products and the necessary machinery to achieve what is often touted as an impeccable result. Companies like Graftobian Make Up Co. showed an impressive and complete array of products geared at just about everyone. From enabling one to create a unique design (as illustrated by a model standing at the booth with only airbrush make up covering her body with beautiful swirls of colors) to achieving outstanding results for every day makeup.

Although the appeal for most is obvious, the covering of just about every inch of the face with airbrushed makeup products raises a question: what is next? Isn't it already enough that many of us are willing to use cosmetic surgery and other methods to look young; do we want now to look like the wax models of Mme Tussaud's museum? The popularity this technique has gained in a short time illustrates how obsessed our culture has become with the impossible concept of everlasting beauty.

Although airbrush techniques can create a vision of flawless beauty, the charm and free spirited abandon that can be expressed through minimal makeup is completely lost with the use of such techniques. The airbrushed face seems somewhat stiff and overly covered with what could be coined as being some type of "camouflage".

Closer to traditional makeup, brands like adesign stood out with beautiful makeup brushes of the highest quality. Offered in many different sizes and shapes, they each have specific uses. The famous Kabuki brushes were omnipresent and showed all the signs of high-end products.

Artist (oil painting on glass), makeup artist and hair stylist Hagen Linss was offering her services to retouch photographs. And array of "before and after" photos was displayed on the wall. Miss Hagen Linss is a very charming and worldly person that displays great artistic skills in many different ways.

Another interesting find was Nurturing Force, a New Jersey based company that offers high quality blotting papers for the skin, among other things. Unlike many other competitors that come with inferior products that can leave an undesirable film on the skin among side effects, Nurturing Force's products are touted (by the company itself) as being the best in that segment of the market: it won't remove or smudge makeup while it absorbs shine with an instantaneous result: a dry and shine free skin.

The company has many professionals using its products, a sure sign of quality in itself. The company's vice president, Ms Linda R. Rothstein-Sosnick took time to explain to me all the qualities the paper has. I personally favor their lavender scented paper: made with the science of aromatherapy, it exudes a delicate and very pleasing fragrance in a dispenser that is most innovative. Instead of paper leaves in an envelope, Nurturing Force has come up with a most ingenious container that holds a roll of paper -- one can simply roll out and cut as much paper as it needed each and every time.

The best of it all had to be a newcomer on the market and a very successful one in just a year: ColorOn Professional is an amazing product: packs of the product contain 10 leaves of papers that have makeup pressed up, each box being of a specific color as well as a specific shape. One has to apply the paper with the makeup color on each eyelid and simply pull out the paper gently. The color stays on the eyelid, a perfectly done eye makeup in no time. Color on is unique and a great product that is so easy to use, with great and long lasting results. The Florida based company is World Cosmetics, and its charismatic CEO, Edward Eberts, was there to promote this outstanding product.

- Muriel Geny-Triffaut

2008-05-20T15:01:00.004-04:00

Amazing �Lace�, Part 2

Gold Lace Bag by Prada

If you remember, last week I predicted (or rather stated the obvious) that lace would indeed be �huge� going forward, thanks in large part to Miuccia Prada�s admitted obsession with the age old fabric, which she used for fall 2008 in gutsy, unexpected ways, playing against its normally prissy, dainty, old fashioned associations. I also noted that lace was very much apart of two events I covered last Wednesday (one being Oscar de la Renta�s resort 2008 show).

Black lace shoe bootie front tie from Manolo Blahnik

Indeed, lace (lace hosiery, lace bags, and lace shoes) is on Neiman Marcus�s hit list for this coming fall and as such, figured prominently within last week�s Neiman Marcus Preview of the Best of Fall 2008 Fashion Accessories hosted by Gabrielle de Papp, Vice President Public Relations and Sandra Wilson, accessories Fashion Director 2008.

Valentino lace bow bag

The duplex suite at the Chambers Hotel, which served once again as the venue of choice, was filled with the best of the best shoes, boots, bags, bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings, and fur pieces from high end sought after labels such as Chanel, Valentino, Prada, Tory Burch, Gucci, Chloe, Vera Wang, Judith Leiber, Larisa Barerra, Jose Barerra, Jimmy Choo, YSL, Badgley Mischka, Manolo Blahnik, Givenchy, Adrienne Landau, Pologeorgis, 6267, Zanotti, Loeffler Randall, Christian Louboutin, David Yurman, Matthew Laurenza, Jude Frances, John Hardy, Ippolita, Emily Armenta (the last six of which have designed exclusive products for Neiman Marcus).

Necklace by Barerra

As Ms. Wilson explains it, the most important elements that define the coming season are: color, sophistication, feminine glamour, modern evening glamour. �You will want to feel glamorous, you will want to be sophisticated, and you will want color� she predicted. To set the stage and to set the mood, a video of �Breakfast at Tiffany� (with Audrey Hepburn in all her chic, bedecked and bejeweled glory) was playing on a screen downstairs and �To Catch a Thief� (starring the always elegant Cary Grant) was playing upstairs.

What does Sandra feel strongly about for fall?

All shades of deep reds (wines and berries)

Patent leather (especially �car paint patent�)

Metallics (gold never dies but newer still is copper and bronze);

Surface interest details on leather

�Killer� stiletto heels, open toes, open back, high vamps, platforms (Notwithstanding the fact that Ms. Hepburn was synonymous with ballet flats and elegant low heeled pumps, Ms. Wilson declared the �fierce� stiletto heeled, open toed, open back, open sided shoe boot as the �shoe of the season�)

Medium sized day bags (forget lugging around back breaking oversized totes)

Evening bags in unique shapes

Art deco, vintage inspired paste jewelry (particularly large oversized costume jewelry in crystal)

Pearls (especially gumball sized pearls)

Lace (used in unexpected ways as illustrated by the black lace Manolo Blahnik stiletto shoe booties, Miuccia Prada�s gold lace handbag, Valentino�s bow and double handle lace bags.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2008-05-20T10:34:00.003-04:00

Gen-Art Styles 2008

(Photo: Isabelle Erb)

On Monday night, Gen-Art Styles 2008 was held at the Hammerstein Ballroom in mid-town Manhattan. It was the 10th Annual Design Awards and Runway Show presented by the renowned arts and entertainment organization. The capacity crowd was comprised of members of the fashion press, invited guests, and ticket-buying spectators.

For the second year in a row, Robert Verdi served as the host of the evening. Verdi explained that he had been called in with only a few days notice, when someone else backed out at the last moment. He jokingly referred to himself as �everybody�s first, second choice�. Verdi went on to entertain the audience throughout the evening with his witty, and frequently off-color remarks. No one was spared as he poked fun at himself : �Botox, gas up those needles and come jack up my face� ;the audience: �fashion fags and sassy socialites� ; and celebrities such as Isaac Mizrahi and Nicole Kidman.

30 finalists competed in 6 categories: Ready-to wear, Menswear,Accessories, Avant Garde, Eveningwear, and the Fashion Vision Award for Design. Winners were determined by a distinguished panel of judges, including: Mark Ecko, Carlos Falchi, Michael Fink, Douglas Hannant, Barbara Kramer, Rebecca Weinberg, and Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann. Each finalist presented two looks from their collection during the runway show. The winner in each category was presented with a trophy (a pair of silver scissors mounted on a black cube) by Kara Saun, the first runner up of Project Runway�s season one. Sophia Bush served as a special guest presenter of the Fashion Vision Award. A total of $35,000 was awarded during the event.

The evening�s winners were:

Ready-to wear: Yujin Song, London

Menswear: Timothy Franklin, London

Accessories: NINAKI, Los Angeles

Avant Garde: Marie Potesta, San Francisco.

Fashion Vision Award for Design: Jolibe, New York

Eveningwear: Louisa Parriss, San Francisco.

When all the awards had been handed out, it was time to celebrate. Mr. Verdi closed the evening, reminding everyone that there would be an open bar at the after party, which was held in the ballroom. Within minutes the chairs were cleared away and guests began to mingle, each one was carrying a goody bag filled with gifts from Tone, Ecru, Sonu, and other sponsors, and a Botox bubble umbrella.

-Rhonda Erb

2008-05-19T11:21:00.003-04:00

F.I.T. Museum Opening Exhibition - Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion
May 21 to November 8, 2008

Press Preview May 21th 10AM- 12Noon

Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion celebrates an array of female creators, promoters and clientele who have shaped the course of fashion. This fashion exhibition features work by female designers as well as clothing and accessories worn by female department store executives, influential clients, magazine editors, muses and models. Women have played a significant role in the history of fashion and they continue to be a driving force as tastemakers and industry leaders.

Featuring over seventy looks from the Museum�s permanent collection, Arbiters of Style includes designs by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Sonia Delaunay, Jeanne Lanvin, and Claire McCardell and features clothing worn by influential women such as Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, photographer Louise Dahl Wolf, and actresses Lauren Bacall and Rosalind Russell. The historical importance of these women and many others will be revealed in the display of garments from the eighteenth century to the present.

Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion is organized by Molly Sorkin and Colleen Hill, along with Fred Dennis, Clare Sauro, Harumi Hotta and Lynn Weidner.

The exhibition begins with objects that illustrate how women were active as designers, stylists and promoters of fashionable trends as early as the eighteenth century. Included will be a gown circa 1770, made from a sumptuous Spitalfields textile designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite. Historic trendsetters such as Empresses Josephine and Eug�nie will be represented by dresses that reflect their influence on the fashions worn by women in Europe and America.A gown designed by leading Parisian couturiere Jeanne Paquin and donated by Mrs. William Rockefeller exemplifies the increasing influence of female designers in the early twentieth century.

The exhibition also will feature a suit by the English couturiere Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon, known professionally as Lucile, and will introduce the Oregon-based dressmakers May and Ann Shogren, who brought elements of Paris couture to their American clientele.Female designers, such as Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin and Elsa Schiaparelli, dominated fashion between the two world wars. A Chanel suit worn by legendary fashion photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe will be shown alongside several of her original photographs from the Museum�s collection.

Dresses from museum donor and Vogue editor Despina Messinesi exemplify the role of the industry woman as an international style setter.By the mid-twentieth century, female American designers and department store executives played increasingly prominent roles in the fashion industry. Designer Claire McCardell, retail pioneer Hattie Carnegie, and fashion executive Rose Marie Bravo will be featured, as will a dress by Irene of Bullocks Wilshire, a designer favored by the Hollywood elite.

Donations from Diana Vreeland, Isabel Eberstadt, and Lauren Bacall highlight their roles as fashion leaders, while designs by trendsetters such as Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo emphasize the continued importance of female designers.

The Museum at FIT is located on the southwest corner of Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. Exhibition hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays. Admission is free. For museum information call (212) 217-4558 or go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum. For further press information, contact the Office of Communications and External Relations at (212) 217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu. Visuals are available upon request via mail or e-mail.

2008-05-16T07:03:00.009-04:00

FIT On the Catwalk 2008
(All photos by John Pringle http://www.jpringlephoto.com/ )

"Fit On the Catwalk", which regroups the creations of the senior students of the Fashion Institute of Technology, was a presentation of different and varied talents with one thing in common: the school that taught them.

Starting with an opening party laced with chocolate, the runway show was preceded with a speech by Colette Wong, Chairperson, followed by Dr. Joyce F. Brown, President of the FIT. After having been reminded of the excellence in education provided by the school, the runway show finally started.

Danielle Breitenbach's winning brown velveteen coat & dress

It was an incredible flourish of flair and genius all together. First were shown the Sporstwear collection created by 26 designers, then followed the Knitwear collection, Childrenwear (13 designers), Special Occasion (26 designers) and Intimate Apparel.

Ruveyde Oder's winning expresso aviator pant with matching bustier & jacket

From a beautiful cream colored perforated leather dress with a textured cream colored coat, to a "in-your-face-and-it's-beautiful" design of a magenta trapeze motorcycle jacket with color blocked tunic dress and skinny jeans, the sportswear collection deserved the long applause it received from guests.

The two industry critics were Anna Sui and Dennis Basso. They selected as winners Ruveyde Oder won with an amazing Expresso aviator pant with matching bustier and jacket, the result of an elaborate work on leather and the body movements. It was my favorite as well.

Kelsy Zimba is the other industry winner with a fur coat with rope detailing, texture black leather skirt and black crepe pleated blouse

The Knitwear collection regrouped 25 designers whose creations are a magnificent combination of beauty, practicality and finely thought out detailing. All the fabrics for the knitwear designs were hand or machine knit by the students. A wine merino hand knit coat with haze trim was simply smashing. A brown ombre knit dress with fringe and back detail was amazing.

The result was a succession of beautiful and elegant designs. They each had fine details, some of them unexpected, very often details not seen elsewhere before.

Risa Kambe's winning sweater & cashmere flared dress

The two industry critics in this category were Michelle Antonelli and Jerry Dellova. They chose Risa Kambe was selected as one of the two winners by the industry critics and by The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program Winner with a multi grey cotton and alpaca oversized sweater with grey cashmere flared dress, a beautiful construction in itself.

Yoojin Lee winning black montana bubble dress

Yoojin Lee won as well with a splendid merino weave detail black montana bubble dress with jersey turtleneck and leg warmers. The punch of bold colors had to make this design a winner.

Annie Nicholas winning plaid skirt with cropped plum jacket

The Childrenswear collection received a welcome applause with the angel-like faces of beautiful little girls who were dressed with trendy, edgy, colorful, - even sumptuous - designs. The collection a well deserved resounding success with its audience. From delicate, flowered and pleated dresses to sharp pants and jackets, nothing was not cute. The Industry Critic was Ms. Nancy Sommers and the winners are Annie Nicholas with a purple plaid skirt with red taffeta pleats and cropped plum jacket with red ruffle shell.

Sarah Boardman's winning cape & dress

Sarah Boardman is The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program Winner with a red wool cape with mushroom dots, ruffled dress with multiple prints. That one outfit was absolutely adorable, everyone in the audience seemed to have loved it as much as i did.

Misin Kim's winning white cotton gown covered with voile roses

The Special Occasion collection was a whirlwind of lavish display of fabrics, veils and long trains that oozed glamour and opulence. Baby doll dress or pleated gown, the creations stood out with the same unique and brilliantly designed evening wear. Very well tailored dark satin tuxedo-like jacket and pants were a counterpoint to a gorgeous gunmetal crinkled organza corseted gown. As for the strapless white cotton gown covered with cotton voile roses, it is a magnificent gown. It also is the winner of The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program , designed by Misin Kim.

Anna Rasinskaya's winning strapless lame dress

The industry critics were Arnold Scaasi and Angel Sanchez. As winners, they selected Annie Rasinskaya's design of a strapless lame dress with back peplum, cording detail and Swarosky crystals.

Lisa Le's winning blanc chiffon swirl dress

Lisa H. Le with a blanc chiffon swirl dress with hand painted ombre satin ruffles and Swarosky crystals is the other winner. That dress is simply amazing, intricate construction and right placement of the ruffles make for a magnificent gown. It got all my vote as well, what is not to like?

Kaitlin Wilbur's winning black corset & long robe

In Intimate Apparel, 15 designers came with luxurious outfits nonetheless. Sheer fabrics and intricate work made for a superb and sensuous parade of lingerie. An ecru embroidered corset with black Chantilly lace was as beautiful as was a lavender hand pleated corset.

The industry critic was Tina Wilson and the winner she selected is Kaitlin Wilbur with a black corset with beaded cream heart embroidery, panty and matching long robe.

Jennifer Ostrosky's winning robe with lace bra & high waisted panty

The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program chose Jennifer Ostrosky with her design of a mauve crinkle chiffon robe with black Chantilly lace bra and high waisted panty. It is a very beautiful outfit most women would enjoy wearing, not to mention that the high waisted panty make it accessible to many, quite a difference from the thongs and other skimpy panties seen nowadays.

It must have been very hard for the critics of each category to decide on a winner. For the most part every design was the result of talent, craftmanship and imagination. Some designs were better left forgotten in my opinion but then again, not everyone is a Ralph Rucci or Norma Kamali.

The runway show was the result of talent and skill very well combined. Congratulations to the students and the school. Among these students are the next great fashion designers, ready to bloom and expand their creative flow. We can only wish them all the best in their emerging new life.

-Muriel Geny-Triffaut

2008-05-15T10:11:00.006-04:00

Amazing �Lace�

(Photos by Scott Gries)

It was a no brainer, after Miuccia Prada unveiled her lace laden fall winter 2008 collection in Milan several months ago, that lace would quickly find its way back into fashion�s favor and have a rebirth, if you will. Not that lace was in danger of disappearing, mind you, but let�s face it, when arguably one of the most influential designers in the world breaths new life into what is normally a demure fabric, dusts off the cobwebs that are normally associated with it, and basically builds an entire collection around it, it�s obvious that lace would find itself the center of attention. And as it turns out, lace (in a variety of incarnations) figured prominently in two events I covered on Wednesday.

Oscar de la Renta staged his 66 piece resort 2008 show, at what has become his new favorite spot, 583 Park Avenue. Looking relaxed and tan, he could be seen meeting, greeting, and mingling beforehand with a crowd that included editors (seemingly all of Vogue was there and Anna Wintour looked uncharacteristically sporty in a crisp white shirt, printed skirt - by Oscar I presume - and high heeled sandals), retailers, and social fixtures (though I have to report that the second row in one section had to be filled in at the last moment since apparently, a handful of guests did not show up).

The upbeat collection was pretty, it was �ladylike�, it was colorful, and it was filled with all the dashing designer�s signatures and favorites...,in other words, it was �very Oscar�. Among the recurring themes were matched and mismatched suits (many in silk shantung, wool and silk, cotton and silk); a myriad of blouses (some had attached scarves, some were sleeveless, others boasted interesting sleeves); the use of islandly shades of Caribbean blue, coral, emerald green along with more neutral ochre, eggshell, black, and white; prints (there was a phoenix print, a tweed print, woodblock prints, ikats, florals, abstract brushstrokes); wide legged pants; caftans; jewel like embroidery on dresses and sweaters; hand crochet knits; one shouldered cocktail dresses (little black dresses and printed dresses); the use of highly textured 3-d organza ribbon and pleated organza.

And there was lace: guipure lace, Chantilly lace, colored lace, lace overlay, and embroidered lace. (Of course, don�t forget that images of Oscar de la Renta�s ivory lace wedding dress, worn by Jenna Bush for her nuptials last weekend, were seen the world over). Standouts in the collection include a short white guipure lace empire dress; a white silk taffeta blouse with black Chantilly lace trim worn with a knee length Caribbean guipure lace peplum skirt; a short black guipure lace dress with a silk woodblock print embroidered skirt; an entrance making full skirted black silk organza and tulle gown with guipure lace bodice.

-Marilyn Kirschner