“Once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it. You can choose classic clothes day and night, and you never have to feel the need to embellish yourself in something that you don’t believe in. What you put on is an expression of who you are and how well you know yourself. If you need to have a covered arm, you should wear a covered arm; if you prefer to wear a flat than a heel, then there are great sandals to wear all the time - and a sandal with an evening gown that’s a minimal, simple sheath exemplifies a certain elegance that is understated and confident. Style becomes more important than fashion. What’s the famous thing that Diana Vreeland said? “Elegance is refusal.” It is important to appreciate current events and to be involved, to support the environmentally sound practices going on now, from the fabric used for clothes, to shopping organically and locally, to refusing to use plastic shopping bags. I guess once a hippie, always a hippie. After all, what were we doing back in the sixties? We dressed to make a statement. And it is still vital to do that today".

Labels: Aging

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Aging ‘Grace’fully

"The old gray mare, she ain’t what she used to be"; "Long in the tooth"….If I appear to have horses on my mind, you’re right (and if you read my upcoming Member’s Report, you’ll learn why). As for the age issue…it’s on everyone’s mind these days and that includes Vogue Magazine, who has traditionally turned their August issue into an ‘age issue’. Sandwiched in between the thin July book, and right before their giant September blockbuster, Anna (nearing 60 herself) has apparently decided that there is no better time to focus on the subject of age while hawking new fall clothes and accessories.

Undoubtedly, dressing ‘age appropriate’ (whatever that means), and choosing clothes that flatter and look stylish, if you are over a certain age, is a challenge for many (though I for one, don’t think it’s as challenging as finding amazing items at affordable prices). Aha… Vogue wanted to tackle that too, judging by their cover lines which read, "The age(less) issue..Vogue’s guide to looking amazing at every decade, on any budget, through every season". Tall order.
But I will say that I found the issue to be well done, and one portfolio was particularly inspired. After the fall collections were over, Anna Wintour asked five Vogue fashion editors, each with her own look and style, and each representing a different decade (Grace Coddington, 60’s; Tonne Goodman 50’s; Elissa Santisi, 40’s; Marie Amelie Sauve, 30’s; Tabitha Simmons, 20’s) what they will wear this fall, how they’ll wear it, and why. They were then asked to style models in their own image.

Hands down the best spread was Grace Coddington, "Graceful Elegance’ (photographed by Steven Meisel). With the help of a glorious wild mane of red hair, her zany cats (Coddington’s admitted favorite accessories), and an almost all black ‘fuss free’ wardrobe which included a chic Balenciaga cocoon coat, a Marni embroidered dress, a Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons long gown, and a Proenza Schouler gray coat, model Karen Elson was transformed into an almost spitting image of the celebrated editor (maybe a bit younger but very believable nonetheless and I have to admit that I initially thought it was Grace herself, courtesy amazing makeup).
The second ‘runner up’ was Tonne Goodman, (‘Clean Conscience’ also photographed by Meisel), who selected model Tanya Dziahileva to portray her in the signature minimalistic yet luxurious basics that remain very true to Goodman’s aesthetic.

There are many ways to tackle the problem of dressing for one’s age, and no wrongs or rights, (this is not an exact science and in the end, one has to follow one’s own instincts and stay true to oneself). Having said that, you could do a lot worse than to take some helpful hints and pointers from pros who admittedly spend their professional lives looking at clothes. For example: Grace Coddington says she "doesn’t feel obliged to buy a lot of new things" but always gets "a coat" each season; Elissa Santisi strives for "the perfect balance between youthful attitude and grown up glamour"; Marie Amelie Sauve claims she will "never wear anything that’s overtly sexy" and prefers "sexy in a conceptual way" (hence, she will pair a sexy dress, like the fetching Martin Margiela which is shown on the Vogue pages) with flats; Tabitha Simmons admits the "only rule in your 20’s is that there are no rules" (ah…to be 20 again!); and Tonne Goodman believes in buying clothes that "will last an eternity" and observes, "there is an intelligence to classic, enduring design. It is never superficial". But perhaps her best remark was, "once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it."

I think it’s safe to say many women out there would be interested to know what fashion editors select for themselves, and personalizing the pages- which included illustrations, photographs, quotes, etc. - was compelling. What was missing was Anna Wintour herself. Though I don’t think she would have agreed to take part in a portfolio where she dressed a model in her own image (LOL), I think her readers would have liked to know what her fall choices might be.

Another standout portfolio was ‘The Firecraker’ photographed by Jonathan Becker, featuring the fabulous looking Roberta McCain, the rule breaking inspirational 96 year old mother of John McCain. It is really hard to believe she is nearing 100 and quite frankly, she looks more youthful than Gwyneth Paltrow, who appears in a double page spread, for a Tod’s advertisement. I had to look twice to make sure it was indeed the actress.

-Marilyn Kirschner

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Friday, July 18, 2008

Better Bets! Number 4

Rhonda Erb's new bi-weekly column on discovering the new and interesting in New York retail, beauty, fashion, accessories and events.

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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

“I (Don’t) Feel Bad About My Neck”


Roberta Freymann's stone encrusted bib

Nora Ephron humorously pointed out that the neck is one part of the body that does not age too well and let’s face it, most of us don’t exactly resemble Audrey Hepburn in that - or any other - department. But if you seriously don’t love your neck, you’re in luck.

How could you possibly feel bad about your neck when there are so many fashionable ways to hide, cover, or camouflage it? Of course, why just stop at the neck? If you, like myself, tuned in to the Miss Universe contest this past Sunday night (which amounted to watching a two hour parade of the world’s most glorious creatures with impossibly perfect bodies) it would have been hard to wake up on Monday morning and feel good about any part of yourself…. but that’s another story.

Long before Nicolas Guesquiere seduced an entire generation into totally obscuring their necks with tightly wound long lengths of decidedly ethnic fringed and sometimes coin decorated scarves (which he made all the more hip and au courant when paired with shrunken schoolboy blazers and skinny jodhpurs for fall 2007), I was covering my neck with mufflers, scarves, turtlenecks, starched shirt collars, etc. And while this is not only easy, practical, and necessary in the cold winter months, I have been known to apply the same tactics year round, raiding my drawers for favorite vintage Hermes and Pucci silk squares, long, narrow Missonis, and YSL cotton voiles. And then of course, there are the necklaces and neck pieces.

Unless you’re living under rock, you already know that multi strands of pearls, bold chains, and especially, statement making necklaces, are de rigueur as of late. Designers (not the least of whom is Miuccia Prada) are even creating clothing (dresses and tops) complete with jewel encrusted collars, necklaces, and necklines. In fact, Richard Chai’s debut collaboration for www.target.com next month features a wonderfully graphic cotton tunic with a jewel encrusted top, which will sell for about $50.



All of the above examples are an easy way to add instant pizzazz and surface interest (particularly to simple classic pieces), and they do wonders for a neck that can use a bit of obscuring. And as luck would have it, there is a shopping destination right here in New York where one can find some of the most distinctive examples around: Roberta Freymann, 153 East 70th Street, 212 585 3767, http://www.roberta-freymann.com/ .

Ms. Freymann’s colorful, richly bohemian, and thoroughly addictive eponymous shop, has an unapologetically global, Eastern (particularly India) flavor. It’s filled with surprisingly well priced caftans, paisley print silk scarves, resin bangles, etc., and shopping there is like taking a trip to an exotic locale without having to leave town or spend money on airfare. A passionate world traveler and collector with an amazing eye, she boasts an impressive resume and is lucky enough to be doing what she loves most. She not only has an ever growing and loyal customer base (including some of the city’s most glamorous and high profile gals around town), but an ever growing empire. In addition to her two story east 70th street shop (which is housed in a landmark building), she opened Roberta Roller Rabbit, (1019 Lexington Avenue) a few years ago (it is stocked with apparel and linens made from Indian block print fabrics), and several years ago, she added an outpost in Easthampton (66 Newtown Lane, 631 329 5828).

Because I am always on the lookout for amazing necklaces and clothing with unusual neck ‘treatments’ (especially those that are cleverly designed and highly wearable), I was immediately drawn to the ornate semiprecious stone-encrusted bib necklaces which are made in India and strung on a gilded silk cord (they range in price from $200 - $250). Not only are they beautiful and eye catching but they are available in many different varieties and colorations and I can attest to the fact that it’s virtually impossible to pick just one. Because they are very lightweight, and imminently packable, they are perfect for taking away for a summer weekend jaunt (or on any trip at all). And since they are adjustable to choker length or a bit longer, they can be worn in a dizzying variety of ways: to dress up a simple cotton t shirt, add interest to the neckline of a simple shift or chemise, or tied under the collar of a shirt or shirt dress. Talk about versatile!



Similarly, I was taken by the $250 sleeveless heavy stretch satin top whose neckline is embroidered with tiny pearls, beads, and sequins. Available in red, yellow, royal blue (my favorite), and gray, this would not only look great paired with white jeans (or any jeans for that matter), but worn with shorts, Bermudas, or a skirt in any shape or length. For press inquiries: contact Dennis Gleason, Company Agenda at dennis@companyagenda.com.



Collectibles by Madge Novel

Speaking about statement making necklaces, if your penchant is unique, one of a kind collectibles (with an art deco flavor), have I got a vintage dealer for you! Madge Novel is a native New Yorker who resides in Washington D.C. She has always been both creative and good with her hands and originally wanted to be a fashion illustrator. She attended the School of Visual Arts and the Traphagen School of Fashion in Manhattan. At one point, she dabbled in making (and selling) her own line of jewelry (which landed her in New York Magazine’s Best Bets). She also knitted her own sweaters (in the 80’s, Joan Vass invited her to knit for her after seeing her wear one of her unusual designs).


Collectibles by Madge Novel

An incurable collector with a discerning eye, she, like Ms. Freymann, has turned her hobby and her passion, into a business and has amassed loyal customers and fans along the way. Her enviable collection of whimsical and iconic Enid Collins bags, was spotlighted in last June’s issue of “Country Home” Magazine, but Ms. Novel admits that jewelry is the major focus of her collection (prices range from about $100 - $400). Last year, she collaborated with good friend, Julie Wolfe, who designs interesting jewelry for Barney’s and Harvey Nichols (she did some “picking” for her and sold her a number of her own rhinestone pieces which she incorporated into her designs).


Collectibles by Madge Novel

Recently, Julie sent the photos of some of those pieces to Vogue, and they are considering using them on the resort pages in the November issue. In addition, the manager of Ralph Lauren in Washington, D.C. “flipped over” some of Madge’s deco turquoise necklaces and has been trying to convince the Ralph Lauren General Manager to do a trunk show with some of her things.


Signed pieces by Mirian Haskell & Elsa Schiaparelli

While she has a fondness for Miriam Haskell and Elsa Schiaparelli, Ms. Novel says she is “not at all concerned whether pieces are signed or by well known designers or even from a particular period”. “I buy what I love. I go by my own aesthetic instinct and it seems to work. It's the mix of pieces that I find exciting and that creates the look.”

For the time being, she can be contacted via her e-mail address: madgenovel02@comcast.net, but will soon be establishing a website and has plans to open an online store on "Trocadero" an online mall. If someone is interested in seeing her collection (which she describes as “ever-changing”) she can send pictures or meet with them whether in Washington or New York.

Right now, she is doing the FIFI venue in Washington but will eventually do other shows in New York. In addition, Madge will do personal shopping for pieces and is always interested in buying.

So, in the same way that you don’t need to resort to a surgical neck lift (if you don’t like your neck you can simply indulge in some pretty fabulous accessories), you don’t need to resort to a painful and expensive boob lift you can simply buy a new fashion gadget. Bralief (www.bralief.com) promises to “provide an alternative to surgery” while improving posture, while giving you an instant breast lift, and preventing the straps from falling off. All for the low price of $9.95 each or $22.95 for a pack of three. Available in black, tan, white, and pink and white, the proceeds of the net sales will be donated to Breast Cancer Research.

-Marilyn Kirschner

+ 7/15/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 0 comments

Monday, July 07, 2008

Panel Discussion: Why Are So Many of Today's Fashion Editors So Young?

Several of the editors and writers at LOL were taking a coffee break in between shows during NY fashion week a number of years back, when one person suddenly asked,"Why are so many of today's fashion editors young? Is this good or bad for fashion?" LOL decided to investigate. We surveyed members of the fashion community to get their take. Some of them have been in the business for as little as three years and others for more than 20. The one thing they had in common: interesting, bold opinions. So, are young fashion editors good or bad for the fashion industry? Go to http://lookonline.com/panel.html and judge for yourself.

(Editor's note: This discussion was held in 1998. It is as true today as when we first wrote this article.)

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Monday, June 09, 2008

Troubling 'Times’


Forever 21 black and white spectator ‘Ollie’ oxford pumps

Just when you thought the economic outlook could not get any worse, the Dow Jones plummeted, the unemployment rate surged to an all time high rate of 5.5 percent, and the price of oil rose to a record breaking $140 a barrel. To say this is a difficult time for businesses of all kinds (particularly fashion retail), is an understatement.

And so it couldn’t have more perfect timing for “Retail’s Moment of Redefinition” (in the consumer century), last week’s Fashion Group International event which gave new meaning to the phrase, “retail therapy”. The mission of this reception, luncheon, and presentation, was to explore why merchandising for a mass consumer audience no longer works, forecast business for the remainder of the decade, to examine the ever changing shopping habits of the consumer, the effects of globalization on the market place, and the way in which the current recession is impacting on retail.

The highlight of the event was a panel discussion moderated by Joyce Greenberg, Managing Director, Financo, INC, with panelists Rick Darling, President, LI & Fung, Chris Lee, Senior Vice President, Forever 21 (which Ms. Greenberg hailed as the “king of U.S. fashion with huge global aspirations”), and Diane Hamilton, President & COO, Brooks Brothers (“THE iconic brand” according to Ms. Greenberg).

To kick things off, Robin Lewis, Vice President, Head of Retail Vertical, Vantage Marketplace LLC, delivered his “Economic Overview”. While it was dubbed ominously, "The Perfect Storm” (he explained that currently, there are three weather fronts colliding for that ‘perfect storm’: 1- Sub prime mortgage meltdown, 2-Decelerating GDP Growth, 3-Decelerating income), he was intent on injecting some lightheartedness into the sobering proceedings, seemed intent on seeing that fictional glass ‘half full’ and repeatedly sought to find some “good news” within the bad.. For example, when he was first introduced, he joked that “the good news is that I’m not an accountant” and when he quoted Alan Greenspan, who reported that there’s a “better than 50% chance" we are headed for a recession, Mr. Lewis noted that “we might avoid a technical recession”. And even if we don’t, the “good news” is that we will “finally get rid of some of the excess and reach a balance between supply and demand”.

But perhaps the key point he made is that “the consumer is in charge” and he outlined some behavioral shifts the retailer should understand (these were displayed in large letters on a monitor behind him, summarzied as ‘From’ and ‘To’). The way he sees it, the shift is ‘from’ needing stuff ‘to’ demanding experiences, ‘from’ conformity ‘to’ customization, ‘from’ plutocracy ‘to’ democracy, ‘from’ new ‘to’ new and now”. That’s where the idea of ‘fast fashion’ comes in. As he observed, “It’s a Zaro world and a Forever 21 world. It’s an Internet world, and it’s a world of new products and new services 24/7”.

He then listed 6 key points for an “Emerging New Business Mode” (1- Traditional retail is evolving to a hybrid specialty chain model, 2- There are 'mini' formats for many neighborhoods (the internet, catalogue, and other direct channels of opportunity), 3-Traditional wholesalers are integrating forward, 4- Niche branding by specialty chain brands, 5- Accelerated brand proliferation and new lifestyle cycles (continuous rapid innovation and differentiation), 6- Going global. And then he announced a "new business paradigm" which is exemplified by the fact that the “the consumer has the power of access and control and the supplier has need for access and control” .

This was a perfect segue into the panel discussion that followed. Rick Darling enumerated on four major trends which are making a difference: 1- "globalization of sourcing, 2- the economies of the world are very much in sync, 3- international retailers are entering markets they had once been afraid to enter; 4- it's all about differentiation (exclusive brands for retailers). Chris Lee proudly described Forever 21, founded in 1984, as a "fast food department store", somewhat akin to a "candy store" with "Wal-Mart prices". They made 1.3 billion last year and their goal is to "get the best merchandise as quickly as possible" and as such, they compete with H&M and Target. When asked asked by a member of the audience if there is a 'target' age group, he wisely answered that "the 21st century is about lifstyle, it's not about age." Indeed it is. My most favorite recent purchase was acquired through www.forever21.com. They are a pair of wonderfully distinctive black and white spectator ‘Ollie’ oxford pumps which are comfortable enough to really walk in since they sport a chunky 1 1/2 inch heel, never fail to illicit compliments, and cost a mere $20. Now, that's what I call ‘retail therapy’, recession or not.

As part of their expansion plans, they are building malls in South Korea and getting more into menswear (this will give the guys who shop with their girlfriends, wives, etc., something to buy.

Expansion plans also figure prominently in Brooks Brother's future. According to Diane Hamilton, it's all about "the history of a true American icon" (the company was founded in 1818 and they are celebrating their 190th anniversary). She admits the biggest challenge she is faced with is how to "redefine an iconic brand" which is known for offering a "high quality product at good value for our customers". Ms. Hamilton admitted that attempts to change it's identity in the 70's, 80's, and 90's were unsuccessful. She said the new Black Fleece Collection by Thome Browne, (a "better luxury brand") is doing well, and so are the brand's 100 regular price retail stores in the U.S. (though outlet business "continues to be strong"). In the final analysis, it's customer relationships that are "major" .Happily, their customer has "given them the go ahead to expand brands" (so expect to see men's and women's fragrances, among other things, in the future).


A New York Times Gaffe...

By the way, speaking of troubling 'times' (and in this case I mean that literally)...perhaps one can blame it on disorientation caused by the horrible state of the economy, the suffering heat wave, or the distraction of two climbers who (within two hours) ‘scaled’ the heights of The New York Times building on Friday….but still, none of the above can explain or condone the glaring typo that I found in the Evening Hours section of ‘Sunday Styles’. In the -column showing pictures from last Monday’s CFDA Awards, one guest, Mara Hutton was described as wearing a “vintage Jeffrey Beene”. We all make mistakes for sure…but how someone at the NYT did not catch this is unbelievable. I showed this to a friend who is not even involved in the fashion business, and she caught the mistake immediately. I'm sure there were a lot of red faces on Sunday morning -- and not from the heat of the day.

- Marilyn Kirschner

Labels: Fashion Group International

+ 6/09/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 0 comments

Tuesday, June 03, 2008

“I knew Yves Saint Laurent, and you’re no Yves Saint Laurent”



There was only one Yves Saint Laurent and there will never be another. While there are talents and visionaries to be sure (and a new generation of promising torch bearers), sadly, too many of today’s ‘designers’ don’t deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as Yves, Unfortunately, some are little more than overly hyped pretty boy (or girl) posers, egocentric control freaks with no talent, and blatant copycats with no original thoughts of their own (but who have at their disposal powerful publicists with lots of muscle).

And talk about timing. As if to heighten this reality and exaggerate the situation, on Monday evening, just as the eyes of the fashion world were to be focused on the ‘best of the best’ (the honorees, nominees, and recipients of the 2008 CFDA Awards), the one name that loomed large over the New York Public Library, casting its magic spell, was that of Yves Saint Laurent.


Diane von Furstenberg in a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit

So influential and revered was this fashion legend, that WWD needed two consecutive issues (on Monday and Tuesday) to cover the news of his death, and chronicle his life and legacy. In addition to quotes from designers, social figures, and celebrities, who weighed in on what Yves meant to them, WWD ran some of YSL’s musings through the years. My favorites included:

“So they have crowned me king. Look what happened to all the other kings in France.” 1968

“In the future, men and women will dress more and more alike. I want to create clothes for women like men’s clothes.” 1968

“Classics continue all the time because they have style, not ‘fashion.’” 1981

“I have said before that the most beautiful makeup of a woman is passion. But cosmetics are easier to buy.” 1978

“I’m happy to be copied, otherwise I wouldn’t be doing my job well.” 1998; “I have always done black. I don’t do ‘message’ couture.” 1968

“What a woman needs is a black turtleneck sweater, a straight skirt and a man to love her.”, 1989

His chic, elegant, intelligent muse was one who exhibited strength of character and true personal style and, as such, could not be more further removed from the self consciously mass produced, ‘sexy’ IT bag, stiletto heeled trio starring in “Sex and the City”, (a movie which met with rather unfavorable reviews but nonetheless found itself in first place after débuting this weekend. Further proof that public taste is, well, questionable at best).

With his innate fashion radar, faultless taste level, brilliant color sense, and master’s eye, Yves elevated street wear to couture and perfected wardrobe basics like trench coats, pea jackets, trousers and sweaters, bow tie blouses, safari shirts, black turtlenecks, leopard prints. Sounds like your closet? It sure sounds like mine. Speaking of which, would somebody please ‘reinterpret’ that iconic lace-up safari shirt modeled by Betty Catroux? (Actually, didn’t Banana Republic come out with one several years ago? Maybe it’s time to do it again!)

As if to perfectly illustrate the inherent modernity and ‘forever’ appeal of what Yves has proposed through the decades, all those attendees at the CFDA Awards who apparently changed their minds at the last moment and chose to pay homage to the designer by wearing vintage YSL or something in keeping with his fashion credo, not only looked better than anyone else but, looked better than ever. That includes Naomi Campbell in a vintage YSL long sleeved black sheer blouse and very au courant black pailleted ‘harem’ pants; Carolina Herrera in a white ‘le smoking’ of her own design; Ashley Olsen (who normally looks like a sad sack but looked terrific and pulled together in a Calvin Klein Collection black ‘le smoking’ worn with a white shirt); and, last but not least, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who eschewed her signature busy prints in favor of a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit. The androgyny of the pantsuit offset her curly mane perfectly and quite frankly, it’s the best I’ve seen her look in a long time. What a fitting tribute and testimony.

While the evening witnessed a true mixed bag in terms of fashion statements, one woman who was a disappointment to me was Anna Wintour. The editor-in-chief has her pick of anything and everything yet, I found her dress label unknown though I assume it’s by an American designer) to be rather boring and unexciting. Though she is always consistent, which is fine, I would love to see her break the mold just once and go against type. With her severe bob, she would have looked amazing clad in a fabulous tuxedo pantsuit with her nude nails painted red. Tres chic!

Mark my words, Yves Saint Laurent and his legend will loom large over the spring 2009 collections shown in the fall and there will be renewed interest in chic tailleur and timeless classics.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Labels: YSL

+ 6/03/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 1 comments

CFDA 2008 Fashion Awards

Photos from the Red Carpet by Randy Brooke.


Anna Wintour

This year the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards was sponsored by Swarovski. Monday was sunny and balmy but crystals and purple rained on the red carpet that evening. One of the first to arrive was Miss Swarovski in an all black cocktail dress and her signature crystals worn as accessories. Many of the guests honored the official sponsor of this year's event by wearing the famous crystals as well.


Marc Jacobs & Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham was wearing a Marc Jacobs (very) short dress made of a myriad of black applique organdi hearts. Carolina Herrera was in an all white tuxedo suit, while Lauren Hutton wore an all grey jumpsuit and cover-up. Eva Longoria-Parker sported a cocktail dress of a pale raspberry fabric adorned with off-white beads at the bustier line. Eva Mendes was elegant in her long and sleek white gown by Francesco Costa.


Ralph Lauren & Wife

Mrs. Ralph Lauren wore a graceful long and pale blue dress adorned with delicate flowers. Maggie Gyllenwaal was in a green-and-black checkerboard tunic by Proenza Schouler. Emcee of the evening Fran Lebowitz wore an all-white tuxedo from "her favorite London tailors". As for CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, she wore a vintage Yves Saint Laurent black tuxedo, paying a vibrant homage to the designer who just passed away. Anna Wintour was in a short gold lame cocktail dress.


Stan Herman & Lauren Hutton

And speaking of the men, Isaac Mizrahi wore a black tuxedo, waxed hair and shiny black sandals that showed his painted toenails while Tom Ford, elegant as usual, wore a black tuxedo and white shirt. And Stan Herman just looked great -- also as usual.


Carol Alt

The M.O. of the night had to be "purple". Seen wearing the color were Erin Lauder in a flowing short purple dress, Carol Alt in a long purple gown with a side slit, Amy Poehler (Saturday Night Live) in a purple dress with flowers cascading down . Lil' Kim wore a short purple dress cinched at the waist while Behnaz Sarapfour wore a stunning purple dress. Hillary Duff wore a sequined purple dress by Michael Kors, Tory Burch sported a long purple dress of her own design, Diana Taylor in a Ralph Lauren design. It was a purple rain, no less. The color was almost everywhere, either as the main color of the outfit or as an accessory.


Hillary Duff


In this writer's opinion, the most outstanding dress had to be the one worn by Hillary Duff. Michael Kors' design was simple, yet highly effective. The combination of the fabric and the clinging lines made for a beautiful, elegant and very sexy dress that Ms Duff wore very well.

Unfortunately, the worst part of the evening was the relatively small space allocated to the working press and the lack of help or directions when I first checked in. I struggled just to keep my "PRESS" sticker from falling off me.


Mayor Michael Bloomberg & Diana Taylor

So if you have not heard already, the winners of this year's CFDA awards are : Francesco Costa (womenswear designer for the second time, quite an achievement),Tom Ford (for menswear) Tory Burch (for accessories). As for Carolina Herrera, she accepted an award for her lifetime contribution to the industry. Candy Pratts Price received this year's Eugenia Sheppard Award. The International Award went to Dries Van Noten, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg was given the CFDA's Board of Directors' Special Tribute. The Swarovski awards for emerging talent went to Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte for Womenswear, Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders for Menswear and Philip Crangi for Accessory Design.

- Muriel Geny-Triffaut

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Wednesday, May 28, 2008

"Arbiters of Style"


From Left: Garbrielle 'Coco' Chanel, Mme Gres & Diane von Furstenberg
(All Photos: Randy Brooke)

Ah….style! It’s something that (in certain circles) is highly sought after, elusive, undeniably hard to define and harder still to possess. To many an ‘expert’s’ way of thinking, it’s something you either have, or you don’t. Style is a favored, almost magical word within the fashion world, where it’s often bantered around, used and abused. To wit, there is a fashion magazine named ‘InStyle’, there’s a highly influential website, Style.com, The New York Times has not one but two ‘Style’ sections (one on Thursday and the other on Sunday), and the word ‘style’ is routinely used in fashion advertisements and in fashion magazines, where it’s emblazoned on covers and used within editorial pages.

In fact, “The Secrets of Style” screams out in large royal blue letters on Harper’s Bazaar’s June cover (which features Nicole Ritchie as its ‘stylish’ cover girl) and in the last paragraph of her Editor’s Letter this month, Glenda Bailey observes that “true style is never about the pieces you buy each season: it’s about the pieces you wear every season.” Certainly, if you use this definition as the barometer of what constitutes true style, and see it as the necessary ingredient for being a ‘style arbiter’ (which the Museum at FIT defines as a “tastemaker, whether publicly anointed or self proclaimed, who has the authority to judge and dictate what is fashionable”), there is almost no woman who so epitomizes the idea of a style arbiter as the late rule breaking Diana Vreeland.

So it shouldn’t be surprising that two of Diana Vreeland’s outfits greet you as you enter the Museum of FIT’s galleries, which house their brand new exhibit, “Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion” (For the record, one is a printed and heavily bejeweled Oscar de la Renta caftan and the other, an acid green Mila Schon skirt suit both of which were gifts to the Museum at FIT from DV and illustrate two distinctly different sides of the style icon).


Miuccia Prada's ‘Fairy’ printed silk pajamas

The exhibit’s organizers, Molly Sorkin and Colleen Hill, along with Fred Dennis, Clare Sauro, Harumi Hotta, Lyn Weidner and Chief Curator, Dr. Valerie Steele were on hand for last Wednesday’s morning press preview. Ms. Sorkin and Ms. Hill admitted that when they began assembling the exhibit, they were struck by the way in which everything was “interconnected” (meaning, women designers wore other women designers’ designs, they were inspired by their clients, etc.) and the effects of globalization. They felt strongly about starting off with Diana Vreeland because she was such an “influential woman in fashion” and similarly, they hailed Miuccia Prada as the “quintessential woman designer of today” which is presumably why they ended with Miuccia’s signature ‘Fairy’ printed silk pajamas from spring 2008.


Designs by Andre Courreges & Marc Bohen for Christian Dior

The exhibit, comprised of approximately 70 looks (clothing and accessories) dating from the 18th century up to the present (there are several outfits from fall 2008) has the distinction of being the first chronological survey focusing on female designers (Coco Chanel, Donna Karan, Vivienne Westwood, fashionable socialites (Isabel Eberstadt, Jane Holzer, models (Marina Schiano, Penelope Tree), fashion journalists and photographers (Diana Vreeland, Despina Messinesi, Louise Dahl- Wolfe), 20th century female executives (Rose Marie Bravo), and clientele who have “shaped fashion’s course for more than 250 years”. The works of only a handful of male designers (Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Yves St. Laurent, Courreges, Geoffrey Beene, Emilio Pucci) were included only as a way to view their “important clients and muses”. And so, as you walk through the rooms, you will see a Halston jumpsuit ‘worn’ by Lauren Bacall, a dramatic black Givenchy gown with a ‘frontless’ coat and Courreges skirt suit (from his first collection) ‘worn’ by Isabel Eberstadt, an Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche ‘power suit’ ‘worn’ by Rose Marie Bravo, a Christian Dior dress and an Emilio Pucci ensemble ‘worn’ by Jane Holzer, etc.).


Collections of Lyn Devon & Ann Demeulemeester

The designs were selected by virtue of their importance, interest, and “significance” and include an interesting mix of names from up and coming talent (like Lyn Devon and the designing duo behind the label Rodarte), avante-garde legends (Ann Demeulemeester, Rei Kawakubo, Vivienne Westwood), American ‘royalty’ both past and present (Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Donna Karan, Carolyne Roehm, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang), and of course, some of the most hallowed labels in fashion history (exemplified by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Mme. Gres, Elsa Schiaparelli). The one thing that struck me as I walked through the exhibit, was the timelessness and modernity of great design. Donna Karan’s draped black jersey dress from 1987 could have easily stepped off this season’s runway, and the same can be said of dozens of other items on view, including the Chanel suit and Madame Gres evening ensemble, which made their ‘debuts’ many decades before the Diane Von Furstenberg gown from fall 2008 that they were standing beside. Great design does not have an expiration date. Much like great style.

The exhibition runs through November 8th.

Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion
The Museum at FIT is located on the southwest corner of Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. Exhibition hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays. Admission is free. For museum information call (212) 217-4558 or go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum. For further press information, contact the Office of Communications and External Relations at (212) 217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu. Visuals are available upon request via mail or e-mail.


-Marilyn Kirschner

Labels: FIT Exhibition, FIT Museum

+ 5/28/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 0 comments