DFR: DAILY FASHION REPORT - by lookonline.com

Sunday, December 14, 2008

VOGUE ICONS

Anna Bayle giving homage to fashion’s legendary icon, Yves St. Laurent (Photo: vogue.com.cn)

Beijing, December 6, 2008

Vogue China invited an international coterie of guests to celebrate their third year of its existence. The iconic magazine flew in celebrities from all around the world to give salute to an iconic city - Beijing and an iconic year for China – 2008, in light of the recent success of the Beijing Olympics. Vogue Icons was also a celebration of Vogue magazine’s 116-year old legacy. The glamorous night of icons and icon makers was held at the Park Hyatt Ballroom. The impressive guest list was a cross-section of East and West, fashion and film, society and celebrity.

Mickey and Minnie Mouse in Vivienne Tam walk the red carpet with Chinese model Du Juan / Kate Moss (Photo: Vogue.com.cn)

The red carpet featured the president of CondeNast Asia - James Woolhouse, Chinese actress Maggie Cheung, Japanese soccer player Hidetoshi Nakata, Nina Ricci’s artistic director Olivier Theyskens, movie director Oliver Stone, supermodels headed by Kate Moss, Du Juan, Jessica Stam, Sasha Pivovarova. Even global icons Mickey Mouse and Minnie Mouse donned the glamour in Chinese-inspired outfits designed by Vivienne Tam.

Black and silver with red and pink bouquets was the setting for Vogue Icons gala dinner

The multi-media program for the evening was an exercise in celebrating the past with the present. The first part defined the iconic status of Vogue magazine with its 116 years of existence. French film actress Lou Doillon, daughter of Jane Birkins of the ‘Birkins bag’ fame took to the stage to talk about what makes an icon. Then Candy Pratts Price, editor-in-chief of Style.com presented an award to Kate Moss for her 20 years in fashion. After which, Angelica Cheung, editorial director of Vogue China, applauded the work of Mario Sorrenti, the fashion photographer as an icon maker and China’s very own supermodel, Du Juan. Anna Bayle, the first Asian supermodel, paid homage to one of the greatest fashion icons, legendary Yves St. Laurent. The audience remembered the fashion master’s artistry in reverent silence while they watched curtained screens spanning the length of the ballroom drop from the ceiling, playing images of Monsieur St. Laurent at work in his atelier.

Maggie Cheung, Clemens Lee (GM of Audi) and Angelica Cheung (Vogue Editorial Editor)

Roland Mouret, London based designer, introduced Jennifer Woo of Lane Crawford. The Lane Crawford brand is known to bring international fashion to China. Philip Lim, a new generation Chinese designer, talked about his first Vogue moment. Olivier Theyskens, artistic director of Nina Ricci, introduced China’s beloved icon, film actress Maggie Chung, known for her role in "In The Mood For Love". The dinner came to a satisfying halt after model-actress, Milla Jovovich showed another one of her talents by regaling the glamorous crowd with two songs. After which all the guests were transported to a celebration after-party at the Legation Quarters which was the site of the old American Embassy beside the Tiananmen Square.

Elaborate Chocolate Dessert for Vogue Icon Dinner

The lavish fashion event, organized by Melvin Chua of the Ink Pak Communication Group, was a feat that can rival any gala fete in the Western world. In collaboration with Vogue personnel, Chua orchestrated a 4-day affair of festivities for the international guests. There were limousined tours to the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, the Great Wall and various museums and silk markets in the heart of Beijing. There were dinners at the exclusive China Club and Aman Resort at the Summer Palace.

If the elaborate and elegant Vogue Icons fete is any indication of what China can offer to the international fashion scene after the spectacular and unmatched Beijing Olympics, then we better brace ourselves for what is yet to come. China is on route in the Silk Road of fashion.

-Anna Bayle
(Anna is Lookonline.com's contributing beauty editor)

Labels: Anna Bayle, China, Icons, Kate Moss

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Thursday, December 11, 2008

"Seduction”

Left: Halston Evening dress Light blue silk jersey 1972-73, USA Right: Chloe (Karl Lagerfeld) Evening dress Off-white cotton knit, white silk chiffon Circa 1977, France

Just as “The Lookonline” commits itself completely to fashion, The Museum at FIT is the only museum in NYC solely dedicated to the art of fashion. Under the direction of Dr. Valerie Steele (chief curator) and the support of the Couture Council, FIT continually brings us creative and informative exhibits that are impeccably displayed and well thought out. Their newest show entitled “Seduction” opened yesterday and will be on display through June 16, 2009.

For her debut at The Museum, curator Colleen Hill (the museums youngest at age 25) takes us on a sensual journey through time covering the past 250 years. I was anxious to ask Ms. Hill what criteria she used to make her selections as I couldn’t imagine the difficulty in narrowing down 250 years into only 70 garments. But, unfortunately she was unable to attend her own premiere. Thankfully, Valerie (Steele) was kind enough to walk me through the exhibition and share with me Colleen’s perspective on the concept she presented to Valerie about a year ago. The process began that long ago and Ms. Hill started her research and the laborious task of reviewing the 50,000 garments in The Museum’s permanent collection!

Left: Irene Cocktail Suit Black velvet, pale pink silk Circa 1950, USA Right: Cristobal Balenciaga Cocktail dress Black lace, black silk, fuchsia silk Circa 1958, France

Seduction is subjective. In other words, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and what one person considers seductive may not evoke the same reaction in someone else. This is particularly applicable to fashion. While Colleen chose a fair amount of feminine styles (apparently very much a reflection of her personal taste), that’s not to say something more racy or even raunchy couldn’t be considered seductive as well. In keeping with the theme, one could understand Colleen’s desire to include lingerie. Of course, Valerie supported the idea and said, “I also encouraged lots of shoes!”

Left: Evening slippers Pale blue silk satin, ivory silk, ivory lace Circa 1850, France Right: Evening dress Cream silk taffeta, satin tulle, cording and tassles, black silk ribbon Circa 1865, Scotland

History depicts so distinctly through fashion what was considered seductive during a given period. For example, in modern times we may not consider demurely attired, covered-up bodies to be sexy or risqué but, as Ms. Hill refers to the nineteenth century in her narrative; “The flirtatious swing of a crinoline provided a brief but pleasing glimpse of the ankle and lower calf.” Clearly, seduction is very much linked to the forbidden. I’m reminded of the film “Memoirs of a Geisha” in which the Geisha was told how enticing it was for a man to see a sliver of the inside of her wrist, (should she allow it to be revealed), while pouring tea.

Left: Vivienne Westwood Evening dress Silver leather, silver metallic silk, white chiffon 1988, England Right: Jean Paul Gaultier "Corset" Dress Peach cotton/nylon blend, peach satin Circa 1987, France

Thankfully, we are no longer wearing crinolines or bustles (at least most of us) to enhance our shape but the corset, on the other hand, is timeless and has been utilized, modified and refined since its invention. The corset flattered and whittled the waist into the painfully exaggerated hourglass figure popular in the Victorian Era. McQueen, Westwood and Gaultier are a few current designers who continually draw inspiration from the corset. Fortunately, these styles don’t cause fainting.

Czech designer Sárka Sisková with her dress at right

I love Coleen’s simplistic, to-the-point statement in her narrative; “The proximity of clothing to the body is inherently sensual.” Body conscious apparel doesn’t necessarily need to be tight fitting to be sexy. This concept is perfectly depicted through Czech designer Sárka Sisková’s 2008 evening dress in pink silk chiffon. Apart from the bust, the fabric is draped so that it falls away from the body in soft voluminous folds creating a provocative package. I asked Ms. Sisková (who showed for the first time in NYC this past May at The Museum of Arts & Design), how she got involved with FIT. She responded, “The Museum at FIT is the most fashionable museum in the world!” She contacted Director and Chief Curator, Valerie Steele to ask if she would take a look at her collection and Valerie agreed. Apparently, the meeting resulted in Ms. Sisková’s donation to this exhibition.

Manolo Blahnik Mules White silk brocade, burgundy ostrich feathers 1998, England

Other designers on display (not pictured)include: Azzedine Alaia, Balenciaga (Nicolas Ghesquiere), Calvin Klein (Francisco Costa), Pierre Cardin, Jean Desses, Dolce & Gabbana, Jacques Fath, Galliano (for Dior), Rudi Gernreich, Gucci (Tom Ford), Lanvin (Alber Elbaz), Rick Owens, Jane Regny, Rochas and Arnold Scaasi. There is even a Playboy Bunny costume (ears and all) as well as a few menswear pieces featured (including an ensemble by Ennio Capasa for Costume National Homme). The garments, shoes and accessories are accompanied by photos (one of which is a gift of the Estate of John Rawlings), vintage drawings (such as the black and white Harpers Bazaar sketches from the late 1800’s) and patterned fabric wall hangings. Ms. Hill did a fantastic job on her first show and I look forward to more.

-Stacy Lomman (article & photos)

Labels: Museum at FIT, Seduction

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008

Wintry Mix

Alexander Calder's “Jealous Husband” necklace

Here we are, smack dab in the middle of what should be a bustling and festive holiday season and the economy is in a disastrous slump (what an understatement!), but as they say, “The show must go on”. And while several highly anticipated and high profile soirees have been canceled (notably Marc Jacobs’ annual Holiday Costume Party, the Neue Galerie Winter Gala, and the Guggenheim's Young Collectors Council Artist's Ball), this looks to be a week of much activity where the fashion calendar is concerned.

As a fan of Alexander Calder (1898-1976), the American born artist known for his three dimensional mobiles and stables, who revolutionized sculpture, and someone who loves bold sculptural jewelry, I was looking forward to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s, “Calder Jewelry” Press Preview (December 9 – March 1, 2009) www.metmuseum.org), held yesterday morning. (FYI…while Karl Lagerfeld staged his traveling ‘Mobile Art’ Exhibit in Central Park several months ago, I would call this the ‘real’ Mobile Art Exhibit).

Alexander Calder brass wire necklace, circa 1940

Dramatically installed and perfectly displayed within the Helen and Milton A. Kimmelman Gallery, Lila Acheson Wallace Wing, it has the distinction of being the first museum presentation “dedicated solely to Calder’s extensive and inventive jewelry”. The approximately 90 pieces (necklaces, bracelets, brooches, belts, tiaras, hair combs), fashioned from admittedly “unlikely materials that he collected or of small metal objects that he bent, hammered, or chiseled” are all unmistakably Calder and had the ability to literally transform the wearer into a living and breathing “work of art”. For Calder, jewelry was just as important as his paintings and sculptures…they represented yet another art form through which he was able to express himself (this is evident in the fact that in 1929, at one of his earliest exhibitions, he showed jewelry alongside sculptural works and drawings).

Alexander Calder's flower necklace

When I asked the show’s ‘organizer’, Jane Adlin, Associate Curator, Department of 19th Century Modern and Contemporary Art, which piece or pieces were her favorites…she didn’t hesitate to identify them: the four pieces (three necklaces, which include “Jealous Husband” and one bracelet) that are part of the Met’s permanent collection. While there were several items I myself would not ‘mind’ owning, I had to agree with Nancy Chilton, head of press for the Met’s Costume Institute, on her choice of most ‘covetable piece: the brass wire, glass, mirror flower necklace (circa 1940).

While unfortunately, the museum has no plans to reproduce any of the amazing pieces, many of which were made for Alexander Calder’s wife, family members and friends, (some of whom, notably Peggy Guggenheim, were captured in blown up black and white photographs showing them wearing the unique pieces), the museum’s gift shop is offering a line of Modern Geometric Jewelry which is in keeping with the Calder aesthetic. Handcrafted from brass (the artist favored brass, steel, and silver, over gold), the 12 pieces (necklaces and earrings) will sell from about $55 - $495.

Photos of Oscar de la Renta by Slavin Vlasic/Getty Images

A few hours later, and a bit further downtown, (if you want to refer to Park Avenue and 63th street as ‘downtown’), Oscar de la Renta unveiled his Pre-Fall 2009 collection (pre fall is becoming more and more important as evidenced by the fact that more and more designers are staging formal runway shows for the press). Amazingly, the invitation called for 1 pm, and when it was over, I looked at my watch and it was 1:19! Can you imagine that? During Fashion Week, a show called for 1 pm would not even begin until about 1:45!!! But then again, Oscar is such a gentleman and never likes to keep his ladies (or gents) waiting.

While the upbeat, well edited, 53 piece collection was not exactly 3-d in the manner of a Calder sculpture, it was highly textural and tactile. It was also polished, pulled together and accessorized to the hilt (bags, boots, pumps, belts, and hats), yet managed to look hip and modern, owing to the reliance on youthful shapes and proportions. Skirts, coats, and dresses were mostly short (just above the knee or a bit higher) and had movement (controlled fullness), and waists were belted to emphasize the shape.

The predominantly chic neutral palette (gray, black, ivory) was sometimes punched up with hits of color or artistic color blocks, and lurex (black or gold) added shimmer to knits (which were used throughout) and sparkled traditional tweeds.

Actually, tweeds were a major statement, and were offered in a myriad of ways, appearing on everything from jackets, tunics, dresses, and coats, to skirts (both long and short). Sometimes, they turned up in multi colored (black, white, gray) patchwork incarnations. The return of the tweed suit was a welcome surprise and notable examples include the black lurex tweed skirt with white tweed trim shown with a black and ivory 4 ply crepe blouse, and the dark grey lurex tweed jacket and matching narrow maxi skirt, which would be a perfect choice for an evening soiree.

There were abbreviated motorcycle jackets in red eel skin, black lurex tweed, metallic embroidered black leather, and studded black silk faille, and lean tunics (in tweed or crepe) were shown belted over full trousers. Interestingly, while furs (especially minks and sables) might have been out in force on show attendees (and some of them were pretty fabulous…baby it was cold outside), they were noticeably absent from the runway (except for a white pieced mink cropped motorcycle jacket where the fur was all but ‘disguised’ as fur, and thrown over a black liquid gazar floor length dress). Instead, there was an abundance of feathers, which were no less dramatic, even transformed into short lengths. A blue and black feather embroidered skirt (full and just above the knee), was shown with a gray merino beaded short sleeved sweater, and several short cocktail dresses (a multi colored feather embroidered, a black and white sequined with feather embroidery, and a black silk taffeta and tulle draped dress with feather embroidery), ended the show, replacing the traditionally lavish ball gowns from seasons past. It’s as though Oscar, like other designers, is predicting less of a need for them in the future, thanks to the economic downturn.

Calvin Klein Pre-Fall 2009 Collection (Photo by Randy Brooke)

Like it or not, there is a new reality, thanks to the recession, and there are bound to be new 'rules' where luxury is concerned. While there are no hard and fast rules about dressing for these times, and I am not trying to pass judgement , I will say that there are certain things that rub me the wrong way right now (such as over the top, billowy ballgowns that are larger than some New York apartments). The Prada holiday windows, on 57th and 5th, featuring black nylon 'windbreakers' (with their subtly jeweled collars), worn over languid evening dresses, (instead of a predictable fur, or highly embellished coat), is a perfect example of something that looks right at this moment in time.

Calvin Klein Pre-Fall 2009 Collection (Photo by Randy Brooke)

Continuing on with that thought, the Pre-Fall 2009 Collections, including those of Oscar de la Renta, and especially Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, who showed yesterday morning, (with its emphasis on cut, shape, and seasonless fabrics,) as well as the Calder Jewelry exhibit, (where the genius, brilliance, and drama relies not on excessive and drunken ‘bling’ but rather, on the inventive, somewhat primitive and tribal, transformation of materials that are not usually associated with luxury), are also perfectly in tune with the new ‘reality’.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Labels: Pre-Fall 2009

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Sunday, December 07, 2008

New Exhibition: Seduction: 250 Years of Sexuality in Fashion

On View at The Museum at FIT in New York
December 9, 2008 – June 16, 2009

Seduction is traditionally defined as an act of temptation and enticement, often sexual in nature. Throughout history, men and women have utilized seductive clothing to enhance physical attractiveness, as well as to convey a sense of power and social status. The Museum at FIT presents Seduction, the first chronological survey to explore 250 years of sexuality in fashion.

Featuring at least seventy looks and forty accessories, Seduction examines the complex relationship between seduction and clothing, presenting a visual history of sexuality, moral standards, and social norms – all observed through the prism of fashion. Examples include a black satin Belle Époque corset, red satin Manolo Blahnik stilettos, and a skintight black leather evening gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior.

Press Preview for Seduction, the first exhibition to explore 250 years of sexuality in fashion.

Open to the public December 9, 2008 through June 16, 2009.
Highlights include:
A black satin Belle Epoque corset
A skintight black leather gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior
Red satin Manolo Blahnik stilettos
Shockingly spare flapper dresses
Gorgeously revealing dresses by Gernreich and Halston
An Armani gown covered in a Swarovski crystal designed and named by Armani
A pink chiffon evening dress by Czech designer Sarka Siskova

TIME/PLACE: Tuesday, December 9, 10:00 am - Noon
The Museum at FIT, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street.
WHO: Czech designer Sarka Siskova; Dr. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT; and Colleen Hill, curator of Seduction, will be available for interviews and tours.
CONTACT: Cheri Fein, 212-217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu

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Friday, December 05, 2008

Victoria's Secret 2008 Fashion Show

(All photos copyright c 2008 Randy Brooke for Lookonline.com)

The Victoria's Secret fashion show was once again photographed for us by Randy Brooke. These special exclusive high resolution images photographed using Canon digital cameras are as good, if not better, than any other photos of the show -- on or off the Internet. Do you remember the days, not too many years ago,when it was said that digital imaging would never take the place of film?

Click here for 16 exclusive images from the show.

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Tuesday, November 25, 2008

36th Annual International Emmy Awards

Judith Light in a Nicole Miller dress (All photos: Randy Brooke)

Last night at the Hilton in Manhattan were held the 36th Annual International Emmy Awards. On the red carpet there was a display of different nationalities as well as different fashion designers.

A flurry of guests and celebrities were seen arriving, lending smiles and a gracious air to the photographs and reporters gathered for the occasion. Chaired by Ms Elizabeth Murdoch, Chief Executive and Chairman of the Shine Group, the event was held from an other celebrity-clad event across the street, the premiere of the movie Australia. As a result, 54th street was abuzz with fans, celebrities, police force, etc....

Present were Marcus Schekenberg, Heather Tom, Tamara Tunie, Sam Waterston, John Waters, host Roger Bart, Elaine Chao, Dann Florek, Willie Garson, Malu Mader, Michaela McManus, Kerry O'Maley, Linus Roache, Andrea Roth....

Ms. Luci Cohu wearing Ben De Lisi

One of the winners from last night is Miss Lucy Cohu, a British actress. Best known for her role in the movie "Becoming Jane" and for her career on television, Ms. Cohu was wearing a beautiful black sequined dress by the British designer Ben De Lisi. She won the best actress award for her role in Forgiven, a gritty drama about a suburban housewife who reports her husband for sexually abusing their daughter but later decides to rebuild their lives together.

All the men present were dapper and great looking with either tuxedos or jacket and pants. Overall, black dominated, as usual as is for men, with a touch of grey here and there as seen on the handsome and immensely talented Paul Blackthorne (he is a claimed actor as well as a photographer). As for Lance Reddick, the actor sported a camel colored leather half coat and a dark, elegant and distinguished as usual.

Judith Light, who has captivated audiences worldwide with the TV series "Who's the boss" and who is currently seen on the hit ABC series "Ugly Betty" was all glamour, charm and distinction in a long and satiny gray Nicole Miller dress with an assorted vest.

Cecilia Suarez

Up and coming actress Cecilia Suarez was wearing a very short and unidentified black and red plaid dress cinched with a black belt.

Brenda Asnicar, an Argentine actress nominated for "Patito Feo, la historia mas linda" (Ugly Duckling) was wearing a sweet and graceful pink dress that enhanced her petite and graceful figure. The dress is a design of the Argentine designer Veronica de la Canal.

Kelly Rutherford

Kelly Rutherford, best known for her long running role in Melrose Place, walked the red carpet in a beautiful Catherine Malandrino off-the-shoulder black dress.

Touches of Max Azria were seen here and there in elegant and original outfits here and there. New designers were spotted like Mauzi by Eve (from Germany).

That night saw the first ever victory for Jordan and Argentine. The United Kingdom won 7 Emmys, making it the clear winner of the evening. While across the street... Nicole Kidman and Jennifer Aniston were getting raves and hoorays from bystanders cheering them.

-Muriel Geny-Triffaut

Labels: International Emmy Awards

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008

‘Spring’ Ahead

Yesterday, I attended Fashion Group International’s (www.fgi.org) comprehensive Spring/Summer 2009 Collections overview. Held at the Time & Life Building, it was sponsored by Cotton, Inc. and MAC Cosmetics. There were 5 scheduled showings, but the midday hour was (and always is) my preferred time slot, as it features a lively and informative panel discussion which follows the audio visual presentation (spearheaded as always, by Marylou Luther, FGI’s fabulous Creative Director).

The “best eyes in the business” (the words used by FGI President Margaret Hayes, in her welcoming address) who not only edited the trend report along with Ms. Luther, but served as committee members and panelists this time around, were Linda Dresner, President, Linda Dresner, Inc.; Sally Singer, Fashion News & Features Director, Vogue; Stephanie Solomon, Vice President & Fashion Director, Bloomingdale’s; Amy Synnott, Beauty Director, InStyle; and Sandra Wilson, Accessories Fashion Director, Neiman Marcus. Special Guest Moderator was the always entertaining and irreverent Simon Doonan, Creative Director, Barneys (whom Ms. Hayes referred to as our “most joyous host”).

It was hardly surprising that the focus this season, was not only on the “really beautiful clothes”, ‘must have’ accessories, and hard to resist beauty offerings, that graced recent international runways, but the way in which the economy and the financial crises has changed everything. Indeed, it’s been impossible to discuss fashion (from any vantage point) and not allude to the difficult times we are all facing….a fact of life that is hitting the retail sector harder perhaps, than any other (though the magazine world is certainly feeling the pinch as well).

The extensive and comprehensive audio visual presentation, narrated by Marylou Luther (who has an amazing way the words and never fails to inject a bit of humor into her prose), began with the rhetorical question: “So how do you dress for the global economic convulsions that seem certain to continue into 2009? Do you want to look standard and poor? Or fortunate 500?”

At the end, she didn’t just itemize the committee’s selections of “those items most likely to sell” (an ongoing feature at this event) but added 4 words “in these cautionary times”: ‘Short’ (from above the knee to mini); ‘Mergers and Acquisitions’ (designers’ unexpected couplings); ‘Foreign Currencies’ (ethnic touches); ‘Hidden Assets’ (re-evaluation of the bra); Net Earnings (transparency); ‘Liquidity’ (shine through sequins, crystals, golden lames, metallics); ‘Leading Indicators’ (geometry is the new fashion math); ‘Futures’ (designers, such as Pierre Cardin, are registering fashion’s future tense); ‘Material Things’ (rumpled, crumpled, wrinkled, crinkled fabrics make news this season); ‘The Manipulators’ (the designer as sculptor); ‘In the Black - and White’ (because graphics look so good, black and white follows); ‘Glamour Stocks’ (some of the most beautiful evening clothes are ‘fringe benefited’); ‘Keep your Pants On’ (jumpsuits and the new cropped pants pegged to the ankles look new this season); ‘Change of A-Dress’ (the sport dress, the shirtdress, the polo dress, and ‘twofers’ abounded this time around); ‘Jackets and Coats’ (oversized boyfriend jackets, sleeveless jackets, trenches, and colored coats are good investments now and forever); ‘Added Values’ (platforms are big shoe news, python is the skin of the season, colored shoes look especially great with no color clothes, and shapely heels make a statement; if you have assets, put your cash in hobos and totes…if you’re strapped for cash get a shoulder strap…in the clutch…get a clutch); ‘Face Value’ (choice is the beauty secret of the season).

At the end of the audio visual presentation, Simon Doonan and the panelists took their place on the stage and Simon wasted no time playfully ‘grilling’ the experts. Simon immediately asked Stephanie Solomon if “price would trump trend”, and her response was unequivocal: “Nothing will ever trump trends at Bloomingdales. Our customers won’t shy away from trends but they will shop competitively”. He then commented that whenever he hears someone saying “I’m shopping in my closet”, it is “horrifying to me…it’s a deranged, grotesque idea”. (While that is THE smart way to go at the moment, as far as I’m concerned, I can certainly understand why this is a ‘horrifying’ notion to any retailer worth his/her salt).

Mr. Doonan then asked Linda Dresner what she can do, as a retailer, to make this practice obsolete.
LD: “It’s important to offer ‘eye candy’, hard to resist items, but our selections must also be functional; wearability is important.”

He then addressed Sandra Wilson, offering that accessories have indeed become a ‘major’ category, especially within these last few years. He asked her which items she thought were the most important this season.
SW: “Aggressive looking shoes with straps”, which are taking over from the “shoe bootie for fall”.

SD: “What about ‘porno’ heels?”
SW: “I think women like a high heel. They make you feel beautiful and sexy”. As for jewelry, “it’s all about bold jewelry, ‘mixed media’, but no one specific trend.”
“I used to say, “If you see it 2 blocks away, it’s fine”. Now I say, “If you see if 4 blocks away, it’s better.”

SD: “What about beauty trends?”
AS: “Lipstick sales have skyrocketed up 40% this past year, especially sales of red lipstick. It’s all about putting on a happy face. Michael Kors used red lips on his spring runway, for the first time in 20 years.”

SD: “How are fashion magazines dealing with the financial crunch?”
SS: “We have been increasingly focused on price even before the market crash. We were in Paris when the stock market collapsed. Our philosophy at Vogue is “Don’t buy less- buy better!” We want designers to bear in mind price but we want them to keep value high. As editors, we have to offer all prices.”

SD: “What in your estimation is a really great trend, and what is horrible and useless?”
SS: “Harem pants are awful, not cool, but I love a sharp shouldered jacket. I bought one in Paris and it changed my attitude..it’s empowering and confident”.

LD: “I love jackets as well, plus sleeveless and ¾ coats. I also love ethnic again (but just a touch), and I love black, and black and white. I hate very aggressive, over decorated shoes”.

SW: “I hate tribal headware but I love large scaled jewelry (necklaces, earrings, an armload of bangles the way Marc Jacobs did it a Louis Vuitton).

AS: “I hate two extremes: no makeup as it was shown at Marni, which I refer to as the ‘depression face’, and I hate overdone makeup, which was shown at Louis Vuitton. I like a happy medium the way Diane Von Furstenberg did it with a smoky eye and pale pink lips.

SS: “I don’t like droopy pants or jumpsuits but I do like a new shoe in nude or clear which extends the leg. I also love the idea of intuitive dressing (a la Marc Jacobs for his eponymous New York label and for Louis Vuitton in Paris). It’s predicated on something that is personal, a ‘joyous jumble’ that is all about confidentially mixing it all up, rather than a specific reference point. Why play it safe now? This is a good time to have fun.”

All I can say is: touché!

-Marilyn Kirschner

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Thursday, November 06, 2008

Gilding the Lilly

(All photos Stacy Lomman)

For Lilly Pulitzer (http://lillypulitzer.com), what started as a fruit juice stand in Palm Beach, Florida, became one of the true American classics. But hers was not a rags to riches story, but rather, a ‘riches’ to ‘riches’ story. According to the online biography, "As a young, sassy New York socialite, Lilly Pulitzer moved to Palm Beach as the young bride of Peter Pulitzer, grandson of Pulitzer Prize’s Joseph Pulitzer and owner of several Florida citrus groves.

Enterprising and creative, young Lilly decided to open a juice stand on Via Mizner, just off Worth Avenue in Palm Beach in 1960. With women’s liberation still in its infancy during those days, it was quite literally unheard of for a member of the social set to have a "business," so Lilly’s move was quite novel and revolutionary at the same time.

Needless to say, the business was a big hit, with one minor problem, Lilly’s clothes were usually a mess at the end of the day after squeezing oranges, lemons, limes and pink grapefruits. To solve the pesky problem, Lilly created a dress camouflaging the stains – a comfortable sleeveless shift made of bright, colorful printed cotton in pink, yellow and orange. It was destined to become Lilly’s first "Classic Shift." Pretty soon, Lilly was selling both fruit juice and dresses. When then First Lady Jackie Kennedy, who was an old school chum of Lilly, wore the dress in a feature at Life Magazine, the whole U.S. discovered "Lilly’s." and the rest is history or should I say, ‘her’ story

The 1960s and 1970s became the heyday of the brand with Lilly Pulitzer freestanding stores opening in luxury resorts. In 1984, Lilly retired, and the doors of "Lilly’s" would be closed for the next two decades. In January 1993, the Lilly Pulitzer line was revived, and reintroduced to a whole new generation of devoted fans. Available in 75 signature shops and specialty stores nationwide, "Lilly’s" is continuously gaining back its popularity to rival its heydays."

When a famed iconic American label boasting a rich heritage and celebrated clientele turns 50, you can bet there will be a golden anniversary ‘blowout’ to remember. And when the brand is synonymous with joyous, exuberant colors and patterns, so much the better, especially at a time when there is the feeling of doom and gloom thanks to the current economic disaster (ban the black already!) (Of course, there were many who found themselves in an upbeat mood yesterday, in the aftermath of our historic election and the confirmation that the first African American had in fact been elected as President of the United States).

The Lilly Pulitzer 50th Anniversary Jubilee Kick-Off Party and unveiling of Jubilee Retrospective, benefitting CARE, was held last evening at the Parsons New School for Design on 13th street and 5th Avenue. In fact, that little sliver of the city was ‘turned’ into Palm Beach for a couple of hours.

Hosted by Lilly Pulitzer, Parsons The New School of Design, Dean Tim Marshall, and Parsons Board of Governors including Sheila C. Johnson, the event was attended by a throng of loyal Lilly Pulitzer fans (including celebrated New York social fixtures such as Somers and Jonathan Farkas, Wendy Vanderbilt Lehman, Alexandra Lebenthal, Carol Mack, Hillary Dick, Cynthia and Dan Lufkin, Jeffrey Chow, Pamela Fiori, Debbie Bancroft, designers Jeffrey Banks, Adrienne Vittadini, Steven Stolman, Michelle Smith (Milly), and more.) And while there were a few who ‘stubbornly’ dressed in chic urban black, unsurprisingly, many more paid homage by wearing their festive Palm Beach Lillies (and that includes the guys). Actually, it was often hard to tell the guests from the dress forms scattered throughout the large space, which were bedecked in designs spanning the past 50 years.

The open bars were overflowing with Pink (what else?) by Yellowglen Champagne and Hendrick’s Gin, and guests mingled as they took in the gallery like display of signature textiles which were framed like precious works of art, as well as blown up articles and photos from iconic magazines like Life and Look, chronicling the meteoric rise of the company (including the famous one, which I made mention of previously, of the late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis wearing her Lilly shift dress).

To mark the occasion, a limited-edition Lilly-printed Steinway & Sons piano (which was part of the live entertainment) and a limited-edition Lilly-printed Jeep Wrangler (which was parked right outside on 5th Avenue) were designed exclusively for the Jubilee.

-Marilyn Kirschner & Stacy Lomman

+ 11/06/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 0 comments

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Masters of Fashion Interview: Exhibition Designer Charles B. Froom

The newest interview in our ongoing series of profiles on the best and the brightest individuals in New York fashion. Click here for the article by Stacy Lomman.

Labels: Charles Froom, exhibition, FIT Museum

+ 10/30/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 0 comments

Monday, October 27, 2008

Stars in the Front Row

(All photos: Isabelle Erb )

The Thurgood Marshall College fund celebrated African-American Leadership in the Fashion Industry with the 3rd Annual Front Row Awards and fashion show on Saturday night. The capacity crowd, that filled the Roseland Ballroom in Manhattan, included students who had participated in the programs of the scholarship organization, which was established in 1987.

Mistress of Ceremonies, Tamara Tunie

The Mistress of Ceremonies for the event was actress Tamara Tunie, a television veteran who currently appears on the series Law & Order: Special Victims Unit. She kicked off the evening by taking a turn on the catwalk in a slinky, brown dress by designer B. Michael. Tunie kept the crowd entertained until the night’s first presenter, actress Janine Green-Doh, whose arrival had been delayed by traffic, made her way to the stage. Green-Doh presented the Fashion Icon Award to makeup artist, Ross Burton, who is best known as the National Artistic Director for Lancome. As he held his trophy, a bronze bust of Thurgood Marshall, Burton described his work as “creating transformation and change with a makeup brush.”

Supermodel and “Modelpreneur”, Beverly Johnson, accepted her award from Deborah Gregory, author of the Cheetah Girls novel series. Johnson recalled the day that Wilhelmina herself, of Wilhelmina models, called to tell her that she had gotten the famous Vogue Magazine cover.

Tyson Beckford and Bethann Hardison

Bethann Hardison, who has represented Tyson Beckford since 1992, said that she had no clue that he would become the star that he is today. She remembered the early days of his career, when he would arrive for “go sees” and occasionally be told not to take the elevator because he had been mistaken for a messenger. After Hardison presented his reward, Beckford told the audience not to “let anyone tell you that you can’t achieve what you want.”

Design by Tracy Reese

Celebrity hairstylist, Oscar James, received his Fashion Icon Award form Vanessa Williams, of the hit television series, Ugly Betty. Williams joked that James has “weaved his way into notoriety” and that she was the only one of his clients in attendance because he loved her the most. James has also styled the tresses of Tyra Banks, Iman, Beyonce, and Halle Berry, to name a few.

Other Fashion Icon Award recipients included noted photographer Keith Major and full figured specialty retailer Ashley Stewart Stores. The 'Breaking Barriers Award' went to fashion entrepreneur Audrey Smaltz.

Johnny Vincent, Welcome To My Paradise

The second half of the evening was comprised of the much anticipated fashion show. The collections of no less than 13 designers were presented, including Trophy Husband by Linwood, Johnny Vincent, Lafayette 148 New York, Sean John, Tracy Reese, Stephen Burrows, Douglas Says…, Kevan Hall, Sixxfoota, Miguel Antoinne, Thurgood 1954, Steven Cutting, and Xiomara. Standout looks from the runway show featured the sexy swimwear of Johnny Vincent, Tracy Reese’s floral day dresses, and the “Trophy Husbands” in Linwood’s tribal dress.

-Rhonda Erb

Labels: African-American Designers, Front Row Awards

+ 10/27/2008; Ernest and Permalink | 2 comments