Marc Jacobs collection – all photos Firstview.com
Word is that Marc Jacobs’ show, which was called for 8 pm at The N.Y. State Armory on 25th street and Lexington Avenue , was really supposed to start at 7:45 but alas, it began precisely at 8 pm and it was over at 8:10! (Funny, since the heavens literally opened up a few hours prior and I assumed that would make for a late show start!) In fact, when the announcement came over a loud speaker that the show would begin in “one minute”, it did, and the models began walking out, with Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons playing in the background, even as members of the audience were still getting into their seats (all but colliding into few of them). Gone are the days of the two hour late shows and gone are the 9 rows of bleachers (where basically nobody after about row 4 could possible see anything below the knee). There were only 4 rows, which allowed everyone a good view, and the models walked out of a set (in groups of 6) that was situated in the center of the stage, so I suppose you could call it, Theatre in the Round.
It was telling that the show began with evening (long chiffon evening dresses in shades of pink to be exact, followed by evening jumpsuits and peasant blouses), because it was all about eve, or should I say, ‘Yves’. Indeed it was a very dressed up, grown up, sophisticated collection where evening wear completely outnumbered daywear, (the latter came by way of beautifully cut heavy cotton belted 4 pocketed jackets, short coats paired with full pants, cropped or long, several dresses, and knitwear); there was no ‘casual’ sportswear. And yes, full cut trousers have seen all over the runways, and Marc’s ‘endorsement’ has solidified them as a major trend this season.
The models’ hair was long and frizzed and many had large flowers and feathers in their hair, or around their necks. The eyes were smoky and their lips were red. It was impossible not to immediately notice the overtly YSL, 70’s references: the clashing colors (lots of pink, red, purple); the one shouldered tops and peasant blouses; the jumpsuits; the use of chiffon, satin, gold, transparency; the wide legged trousers and pantsuits; voluminous shapes; the shoes (high heeled metallic sandals or espadrille – like shoes on a low bejeweled platform which are sure to be the ‘it’ shoe this season. But I also saw touches of Missoni and even Sonia Rykiel (in the striped and patterned sweaters and knitwear ensembles). Apparently, this is not coincidental since Marc admitted the collection was all about those things that made him “fall in love with fashion” in the first place.
Unfortunately, it was impossible to take any kind of intelligible notes or even get a good look at the clothes because the models came out at breakneck speed and there was no run of show offering descriptions or fabrication of the clothes. However, at every seat, there was a white shopping bag which contained a bottle of Marc’s new fragrance for men, ‘Bang’, and a plastic pouch with the word, BANG in large letters, which contained a gray cotton t-shirt with a picture of Marc naked, holding a bottle of his fragrance between his legs, and seemingly in a state of (well, I won’t say what).
Carolina’s ‘gift’ of the Mikado
Carolina Herrera collection – photos Firstview.com
It should have been a quick giveaway upon opening the Carolina Herrera program prior to her 10 AM show at Lincoln Center this morning (printed with an assortment of colorful flowers) that the runway would be replete with floral patterns and prints. Indeed, that was the case, but hers took an Oriental slant since she stated that in addition to the colors, prints, and floral appliqués taken from botanical plates collected in the 18th century, her other point of reference was the “traditional clothes from Korea”. That would explain the wide brimmed tall lacquered straw hats normally worn by men in that culture, which were perched on the heads of many of her models (Carolina’s hats are once again by Albertus Swanepoel). It would also explain all the Oriental embroidery, lotus blossom and white blossom prints, Korean boleros, Korean cocoon shaped shifts, Korean top stitching, and a good deal of Oriental blue, hibiscus and lacquer red throughout.
The collection might have come off looking overly costumey, but it was nicely done and often quite beautiful. There were of course, the requisite fitted cocktail dresses and very grand ballgowns one comes to expect from Ms. Herrera, but the pieces that stood out for me were actually the white shirts which were shown in a variety of incarnations and fabrications and paired with knee length pencil skirts or full legged trousers (hers were so wide they almost resembled a ball skirt). Actually, this should not be surprising since Carolina’s ‘uniform’ has always consisted of a beautiful white blouse or crisp white shirt (which she routinely pairs with everything from slim pencil skirts and well cut trousers, to floor length ball skirts and when she took her bow after the show, she was wearing a white shirt with gray trousers. Several that stood out where the Jasmine white cotton pico edged sleeve shirt worn with a black daisy faille knee length skirt with foldover waist; the Jasmine white cotton Korean bow blouse paired with black wool twill single fold pants, and the Jasmine white double fold cotton blouse paired with the ultra wide black sesame wool twill aikido pants.
Yeohlee’s ‘Comfort’ Zone
Photos: Dan Lecca
For spring, Yeohlee cited inspired by ‘energy’ and ‘sound’ (which as Yeohlee’s program notes mentioned, are also invisible), as well as Cutter ants (and the spaces they occupy in a world “envisioned by Lebbeus Woods”). The 20 piece collection (shown in a fabulous terraced penthouse apartment on Central Park South, with magnificent views facing north over Central Park and the entire city, it seemed), was also a study in wearable clothes and comfort as much as it was about great ideas and well thought out and highly conceived design, which is always a Yeohlee signature. The use of sporty Bensimon shoes (a very chic sneaker), with every outfit, summed it up as the models jaunted out looking smart, chic, and above all, comfortable.
And yes, there was more than a touch of athleticism in much of what was presented. It was all short (meaning, above the knee), and shorts were used as part of a suit (they were shown under jackets and coats in fact). Several of my favorite looks were the coffee UT cotton Y dart jacket and crescent shorts, and the red and ivory tiny pincheck cotton coat with matching walking shorts. And in a season of crochet and open work, Yeohlee’s ivory hand crochet silk top with seersucker semi circle skirt/short, and her black knit cotton/hemp/metal lace tank worn with a black and white rick rack cotton knit cylinder skirt, definitely stood out.
-Marilyn Kirschner
SHOP!
The Natori company’s fun, contemporary brand, Josie by Natori, now has its own dedicated website. It will become your favorite destination to find fresh new styles of bras, panties, and sleepwear. You can also shop the Natori collection simultaneously and check out of both sites at the same time. Receive a $10.00 iTunes gift card with your first purchase during the month of September.
-Rhonda Erb
