“Breathless!”

The holiday season has barely gotten underway, and I’m already ‘over’ the obligatory beads, sequins, and anything that looks like tinsel. What I’m not bored with is great design, particularly when infused with a heavy dose of fantasia.

‘Tis the season for dreaming, and right about now, I’m especially craving eye candy; that WOW factor. I’m always on the hunt for rare pieces that take my breath away! But, what I most commonly find, even at the ultra-high-end of the market, is decidedly ordinary. That being said, just when I think I’ve seen it all, I realize I haven’t.

There are those who believe “more is more”. Daniel Roseberry entitles his Schiaparelli Fall Winter 2021 Couture Collection, “Matador Couture.” As he explains it, the collection is “a little Manet, a little Lacroix, a little 1980’s, a little 1880’s, a little matador, a little space alien, a little shimmer, and a lot of colors”.

Every piece is unique. The fitted zippered jacket (seen in the above photo), has exaggerated sleeves made from vintage denim jeans embroidered with gold strass, thread, and rhinestones. The bodice of the jacket is embroidered with three-dimensional padded flowers, gold bugles. strass and beads. The spiral-cut breasts are made from gold lambskin. Elsa would be proud! For more information, go to Schiaparelli.com.

The Balenciaga Fall 2021 Couture Collection, the first in over 50 years, is a tour de force. Demna Gvaslia succinctly pays homage to Cristobal’s legacy, emphasizing tailoring, daring cut, and dramatic proportion; the shiny lampshade-like hats create the perfect balance. Ask any fashion purist, and they will probably tell you it’s the highlight of this past season. Let’s face it; it’s not often that a tan trench is given the bravura of a couture evening gown. For more information, go to balenciaga.com.

I did a double-take when I first saw this yellow, orange, and red parachute nylon multi-layered sleeveless ensemble by Ann Demeulemeester. The vibrant colors and the style are very unexpected for this designer. She is known for her love of androgyny and works predominantly in black and white. The two-piece dress is comprised of a yellow sleeveless top and skirt. The three sleeveless coats are sold together but can obviously be worn separately, making it very practical.

I love that it’s made from a sporty, performance fabric rather than silk; how modern! The ensemble was purchased in Antwerp by Morphew Collection. The dealer told them it was made for a dancer for a local dance theatre, so it’s most probably a “one-off” design. Priced at $4300, it is for sale at 1stibs.com.

The brilliant and revered designer Yohji Yamamoto works almost entirely in black. He infuses his designs with a touch of romance and makes them something indeed out of the ordinary. This cropped black padded leather jacket from Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear fits the bill.

The extremely oversized hood, trimmed with bluebird feathers, truly elevates this piece and makes it extraordinary. The hood and the sleeves can be removed, turning it into a vest, making it all the more practical. Priced at $6250, it is for sale at 1stdibs.com.

This rare and spectacular Defile Comme des Garcons runway gown is museum-worthy and a collector’s item. It was initially first shown on the Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear runway. The magnificent sculptural outfit is covered with the surrealistic painting of 16th-century artist Guiseppe Arcimboldo whose portraits were made up of painted fruits and vegetables.

The jacket and skirt are made of velvet. The skirt has padded cushions and a little tulle inside to keep its unique shape. It is definitely a showpiece and extremely rare since only very few pieces were produced. Photographed on a mannequin size 2 US, it is priced at $32,000 and for sale at 1stdibs.com.

This extremely rare Roberto Cavalli reversible silk kimono is a “one-off” sample piece from Spring 2003 Ready-to-Wear. The print appears to be inside a 17th-century mansion/castle. There is an area, perhaps the banquet hall in the castle, that has velvet chairs.

The kimono is entirely reversible to the same abstract animal pattern used for the corset. The kimono is one size. The corset is size small, but it is adjustable. What a great piece to wear for entertaining in high style in your own castle. Priced at $48,000, it is for sale at 1stdibs.com.

Adolfo, who passed away last Saturday at the age of 98, always believed that fantasy was essential in fashion. In Enid Nemy’s New York Times obituary honoring the late designer, she recounts one of his signature quotes: “Chic and decent clothes are not enough. Clothes should be amusing”.

There’s a time and place for both but right about now, I am craving the amusing and fantastical.