Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
Connie Gray and her art dealer husband, Ashley, founded Gray M.C.A Gallery in 2007. It is recognized as the international leader in the specialist art field of original fashion illustration. The Grays curate the finest post-war artists working in the original traditional fashion illustration style.
L’Officiel 1958 Courtesy Gray M.C.A.
As Ms. Gray notes, “fashion illustrations have rarely been given the retrospective treatment because they’re often thought to be commercial, and the drawings weren’t considered a true art form until the last 10 years or so”. Ms. Gray firmly believes that fashion illustration can tell a story and capture the essence and the look more effectively than a photograph.
The Grays are stalwart champions of fashion illustration, dedicated to promoting this unique genre of work. Gray M.C.A curates the internationally acclaimed ‘Drawing on Style’ exhibition in London each September. This significant art event is held during London and New York Fashion Weeks, highlighting the most influential and contemporary fashion illustrators.
In 2020, the Grays were invited to bring a capsule of their lauded “Drawing on Style” exhibition to New York City under the umbrella of the prestigious annual Master Drawings New York event. Because of COVID restrictions, they could not attend, but they came this year.
The Telegraph Magazine 2003 Courtesy Gray M.C.A.
As Ms. Gray proudly explains, “We are part of a very select group of New York and international galleries who come together on the Upper East Side to showcase curated collections of works from Goya to Picasso to rather remarkably – fashion illustration! This is a proud moment for Gray MCA as it places fashion illustration right up there with the great 20th century masters.”
Hosted by the acclaimed Didier Aaron gallery at 32 East 67th Street, the show opened on January 22nd and runs through Saturday, January 29th. Coincidentally, Didier Aaron was once the former headquarters of the French couturier Marcel Rochas.
Courtesy Gray M.C.A.
They gave me a personal tour of the 30 piece exhibition, which includes works by contemporary illustrators such as David Downton, Jason Brooks, Gladys Perint Palmer, and Bil Donovan alongside past greats such as Antonio, Carl Erickson, and René Gruau. Priced between $1800 and $14,000, they span from the 1940s to today and show the “evolution of the genre as a discipline.” Many works have already been sold.
One of their favorites, and understandably so, is “The World’s Fastest Human” by Antonio for Mademoiselle Magazine, 1965, from The Estate of Antonio Lopez & Juan Ramos. Another is David Downton’s stunning portrait of Romy Schneider, which appeared in British Vogue, February 2011. But many others are outstanding.
On Tuesday, to coincide with the exhibit, Gray M.C.A collaborated with the Society of Illustrators to host a virtual panel discussion, Fashion Illustration: The Evolution of Elegance. Chaired by author and journalist Susan Mulcahy, it featured four eminent illustrators: Glenn Tunstall, Jason Brooks, Steven Stipelman, and Bill Donovan.
Ms. Gray says she would have liked to have many more, and she would have loved to include some women fashion illustrators, like the acclaimed Gladys Perint Palmer, but because of time and Covid, they had to narrow it down.
Courtesy Gray M.C.A.
Fashion reflects the mood of the times. These artists fervently believe that fashion illustration can still define those moments. Creating a brilliant fashion illustration is, indeed, very difficult. The line is everything! You have to know anatomy, draw, generate drama, and make the customer desire something.
Ms. Mulcahy asked the group if any specific fashion designers inspired them. Steven Stipleman says he loves Schiaparelli, which is dramatic and adventurous. He also cited Dior and Valentino, “As an illustrator, I look for shapes”.
New Yorker Steven Stipelman is the undisputed “grandmaster” of this group. He has been working as a fashion illustrator for some 40+ years. Spelman got his feet wet creating newspaper adverts and catalogs illustration for Henri Bendel’s store. He moved steadily to working Women’s Wear Daily and has continued working with them.
Glenn Tunstall says that for him, it’s all about “getting wrapped up in a feeling that makes you want to be a fashion illustrator,” but unfortunately, he doesn’t see so much on the runways that inspire him these days. FYI, Glenn is the first Black fashion illustrator hired at WWD in 1972 where he worked until 1975. He is currently a Professor in the Fashion Illustrations Department at Parsons the New School for Design.
Courtesy Gray M.C.A.
The award-winning fashion and lifestyle illustrator Jason Brooks, who likes to experiment with technology in his editorials and ads, says he is drawn to minimal things like vintage Balenciaga. Jason met Yves Saint Laurent years ago and still loves it as a brand along with Prada and Chanel. However, Jason admits that he is “horrified” by some of the things he sees on the catwalks these days. I’m with you there Jason!
Bil Donovan works primarily in ink and quickly paints sophisticated, luxurious, and glamorous fashion illustrations. Bil has created memorable fashion illustrations for Ralph Rucci, Thom Browne, Carolina Herrera, and Christian Dior. Since 2009, Bil has served as Artist-in-Residence for Dior Beauty.
He describes working with the “extraordinary” Ralph Rucci for his Haute Couture Collection for Fall 2021/2022 last July. There were no actual garments, and Ralph didn’t want accurate illustrations but rather the collection’s essence. “Having the opportunity to work with someone with that vision was amazing.”
When I asked Connie what her takeaway from the panel discussion was, she said, “The passion these artists have for their art and their belief in fashion illustration being a current very relevant art form.” Quite frankly, I don’t think anyone can have more passion for the art of fashion illustration than the Grays.
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
Love my portrait Thank you Michel Haddi!!!!
Such a fun and bold take on fashion! Love how this collection brings a fresh, playful energy to the scene.
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
Thank you so much Marilyn for such a fabulous article.
I am a big fan of fashion illustration. It takes a keen eye for the energy space and movement create.
I have many of my own design illustrations by the elegant late Rodger Duncan, Exuberant visual artist, David Croland., Joel Resnicoff,’s kooky cubist images as well Bill Donovan , Antonio and Stipleman. Happy to share or lend for any future shows.
Good article, Marilyn
The Grays — let’s get Nancy’s Halston drawings to them. Gladys PP is such a genius, cunning POV on all her sketches of fashion figures at shows. And Antonio! Why don’t I still have his extravagant illustrations for Cheap Chic!?