Amy Fine Collins, Gary Wassner, Nicole Fischelis, Mickey Boardman, Sharon Graubard – photo by Mailyn Kirschner
The Fashion Group International Communique presentation, a noteworthy event that showcases the global fashion weeks for Spring and Summer 2025, was held on Wednesday, November 13, 2024. This key fundraiser for the Fashion Group Foundation took place at LIM College on 5th Avenue and 45th Streets.
The event was sponsored by LIM College and Hilldun Corporation. In the fashion industry, Hilldun Corporation, led by Gary Wassner, is renowned for its financial support to many of Seventh Avenue’s most esteemed fashion companies, providing funding and factoring for numerous iconic labels.
Freddie Leiba, Amy Fine Collins, Marilyn Kirschner
Among those in attendance were fashion designers and former FGI Rising Star winners Epperson and Terry Singh, and fashion veterans Fern Mallis, Freddie Lieba, publicist Deborah Hughes, and Robert Di Mauro.
The Panelists:
The discussion was moderated by Amy Fine Collins, editor-at-large of Graydon Carter’s Air Mail, and featured a panel of influential figures in the fashion industry.
The panelists included Gary Wassner, CEO of Hilldun Corporation; Mickey Boardman, Director of Special Projects at Paper Magazine; Nicole Fischelis, a respected Fashion and Art Forecaster; and Sharon Graubard, the esteemed Founder of The SG files.
Almost seven years ago, I served as a panelist with Mickey Boardman and Nicole Fischelis. It is nearly impossible to count how much has changed since the event was held at Hearst’s iconic 57th Street building. Before that, the longstanding venue of choice was the Time Warner Building.
Katya Tolstova & FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
Ron Marshall, LIM President, made his welcoming remarks, followed by FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz, who said that the first such trend report, back in 1948, was a fashion show. For 25 years, Marylou Luther produced and narrated this event, and she did it in her inimitable way.
This trend report was curated by Nicole Fischelis, Gary Wassner, and Sharon Graubard, who admits the group started with 10,000 images and whittled it down from there.
The 12 key trends they highlighted were:
Nicole Fischelis, Nabys Vielman, Sharon Graubard – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
Redefined Gentleman (pushing menswear forward); Save the Garden (florals), Denim Craft (an emphasis on artisanal denim), Go Go Cargo (Utilitarian, functional fashion); Sport Luxe (the merging of sports, athletics, streetwear, and fashion); Shirt Story (the crisp freshness of shirting in a variety of iterations); Mini Me (the mini skirt returns); All the News in Black and White (the forever chic combination); Fringe Benefits (incredibly long and swinging versions); Sculptural White (all white shown in its pure form); Sheer Delights (ethereal layers); and Sparkle and Shimmer (all things shiny and optimistic). And boy, can we use this now.
Five Designers to Watch:
Grace Ling Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear – photo Courtesy of Grace Ling
This was followed by Gary Wassner’s picks of 5 fashion designers who are the “Ones to Watch.” Grace Ling is known for her sensual, surrealistic designs. Bad Binch TONGTONG is an avant-garde streetwear label designed by Terrence Zhou that fuses his former math and engineering studies with artistic flair. #
Nabys Vielman Denim Couture Collection inspired by The American Beauty
Venezuelan-born Nabys Vielman’s fashion proposal is based on functionality, comfort, sophistication, style, and innovative forms. His last collection focused on couture denim inspired by The American Beauty. Last but not least is Tommy Hilfiger. Tommy is not exactly ‘new’ on the horizon jokes Wassner, yet he somehow always manages to reinvent himself, as he did this season.
The “Go Global” Section:
Valentino Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear – photo by Valentino
The section was narrated by Nicole Fischelis, who selected her picks of the top European collections. London: Burberry, J.W. Anderson, Marques Almeida, Simon Rocha; Milan: Bottega Veneta, Antonio Marras, Prada, Max Mara; Paris: Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chloe, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Schiaparelli. McQueen, newly designed by Sean McGirr and Valentino under the design tutelage of Alessandro Michele, is admittedly controversial; some loved it, and others did not.
“Sports stars are the most fashionable people; the football field is the new runway” – Mickey Boardman.
In the discussion that followed, Mickey Boardman said he dislikes trends but always likes a bit of sparkle and glitter. He is enamored with the ongoing convergence of sports, athletics, streetwear, and fashion, all magnified in the wake of the Paris Summer Olympics.
Sharon said it is not about trends but about “You Being You” (to paraphrase Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing). In other words, individuality is essential.
Moderator Amy Fine Collins guided the lively conversation on various topics, including the challenging luxury market, New York vs. Europe (we might show first, but we are still remembered), and, naturally, designer musical chairs.
Peter Do – photo by Giovanni Giannini for WWD
This week, Phillip Lim announced that he was stepping down from the eponymous house he founded, and on Wednesday, Peter Do announced that he was leaving Helmut Lang. Do has yet to recapture the magic of those first Peter Co collections, but that’s another subject.
Naturally, who will take over as creative director of Chanel was another topic. Marc Jacobs’ name came up, but Nicole says he apparently wanted too much money (it’s hard to believe anything is too much for this venerable house of Chanel). Anyway, there is reportedly someone who is already headed to the plum job.
Mickey noted that designers are facing a particularly challenging time. As he put it, unless you are an iconic designer like Marc Jacobs or an IT label like Chavarria, you are having a tough time.
Schiaparelli Anatomy Amber Leather Coat and matching bag, photo by Schiaparelli
Another topic of interest was how designers are now becoming more important than the labels they create, taking the DNA of the house and infusing it with their own signature. Case in point: Alessandro Michele in his new role as creative director of Valentino. Similarly, Daniel Roseberry has taken Schiaparelli’s iconic heritage brand and made it his own. Who even remembers the designer who preceded him?
Questions from the Audience:
At the end, audience members could ask the panelists questions. I wanted to know how they thought the new administration would impact the fashion business. As Gary observed, “It will be a challenge,” to put it mildly, as the price of fabrics alone will become astronomical.
This is a hot topic, of course. In fact, in the past few days, there’s been no shortage of articles on Trump’s anticipated tariffs in WWD and The New York Times.
In response to one of the panelists noting that many significant names representing the European press are no longer attending New York Fashion Week as they once had, Fern Mallis questioned the importance of the press. “Who needs the press?” she queried. Indeed, Gary Wassner agreed that you don’t need a writer. All you need are photographs of the clothes posted on Instagram.
That says it all.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
Love my portrait Thank you Michel Haddi!!!!
Such a fun and bold take on fashion! Love how this collection brings a fresh, playful energy to the scene.
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
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