Coco Chanel was named one of TIME Magazine’s 100 Women of the Year, 2020, Photo Courtesy of Getty
One of the longest-running guessing games in fashion just ended. It is impossible to look back on 2024 and contemplate what’s in store for fashion without thinking about Chanel and Matthieu Blazy’s appointment as the storied house’s fourth head designer (only the second in-house).
This appointment, following in the footsteps of iconic designers like Karl Lagerfeld, marks a significant shift in the brand’s creative direction.
At least half the year was spent speculating who would take over the plum position after Virginie Viard’s June resignation. There’s a reason there was so much interest in who would fill the role of artistic director of Chanel and why it’s considered to be the hottest job in fashion.
The Chanel Mystique, a unique blend of timeless elegance, innovative design, and a pioneering spirit, is what makes the brand and its leadership roles coveted in the fashion industry.
“Coco Chanel really had the spirit of the 20th century. She understood what women’s lives would be.” – Diana Vreeland.
Over a century ago, Gabrielle Bonheur ‘Coco’ Chanel (1883–1971) laid the foundation for the world’s most renowned fashion house. Her creation of a timeless, ageless dressing system and a set of icons for the modern woman continues to influence the fashion industry today, a testament to her enduring legacy.
Coco Chanel
As Diana Vreeland noted, Coco Chanel embraced a new social era in which women began working, playing sports, and even driving—reflecting modern freedom in her practical, comfortable designs.
Coco Chanel is celebrated as one of TIME Magazine’s Women of the Year, March 2, 2020, Illustration by Kelly Hu for TIME; Heritage Images Getty
Any woman today who loves elegant yet comfortable clothes owes Coco a debt, opines TIME Magazine, which named her to its list of 100 most influential people of the 20th century in March 2020.
To recognize Chanel and the other women honored (Coco was the only fashion designer who made the list), they created 89 new TIME covers, many of which were designed by prominent artists.
“The Chanel suit is a model marriage of practicality and beauty to this day. The woman who brought it into the world knew that to move forward, you first had to be able to move. “—Stephanie Zacharek, TIME Magazine.
Celine Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo Courtesy of Celine
Through the years, the most highly esteemed designers have continued to pay tribute to Chanel with their interpretations of Coco’s signatures. Many have been outspoken about their desire to be at the helm of this legendary house.
Bottega Veneta Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Filippo Fior for Gorunway
As for Blazy, well, I didn’t see that one coming. I never really put the two together. Of all the names bantered around, Matthieu, regardless of his critical and commercial success at Bottega, and a highly impressive resume, seemed an unlikely choice to me at the time.
Matthieu often shows his minimal side, paring things down and focusing on cut and silhouette. There’s another side that is endearingly weird and wacky. You never know what to expect.
Chanel was originally founded on the idea of comfort and simplicity. I would hardly call many of Mattieu’s designs for Bottega Veneta ‘simple.’ Of course, one could say the same thing about Karl Lagerfeld.
What Blazy and Chanel do have in common is a nontraditional, detail-oriented approach to fashion, an adept way of mixing masculine and feminine, and a love of knitwear, unconventional fabrics, embroideries, colors, and textures.
Chanel will assuredly be on everyone’s minds in the upcoming year. Even though we won’t see Blazy’s Chanel reinvention until October 2025, there will undoubtedly be clues as to where he is heading. I would hope Chanel looks like Chanel, but that it looks NOW! And at those astronomical prices, it better be deliciously sumptuous.
Bottega Veneta Pre Fall 2024 Photo Courtesy of Bottega Veneta
When Matthieu came to Bottega, he aimed to create wearable, classic designs that were not boring. That is easier said than done. Matthieu will assuredly add an element of surprise and a whimsical, humorous touch to Chanel.
In addition to forging a new path, one assumes the intuitive, spontaneous, highly creative designer will create many riffs on Coco’s highly identifiable icons.
But Chanel is more than just a quilted bag, a Camellia, a string of pearls, tweeds, and cap-toe pumps. It’s all about a modern attitude. “Modern” is perhaps the most overused word in fashion. It means different things to different people.
Now, as the 37-year-old designer takes on the monumental task of ‘Making Chanel Great Again,’ he faces the daunting challenge of defining ‘modern’ in the context of Chanel and our times. This task carries a significant weight, as it will shape the future of the iconic fashion house.
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Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
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Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!