Left: Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Hunter Abrams Right: Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear – Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
The fashion world is abuzz with the anticipation of numerous debuts this year. Are they ‘Make or Break’? Let’s just say there’s a lot at stake. The debut of Calvin Klein’s creative director, Veronica Leoni, was particularly awaited, with many considering it to be the most anticipated show of NYFW. The excitement was palpable, and the pressure was on!
In her article, “Can Calvin Klein Reinvent ‘Sexy’?” Vanessa Friedman opined that the future of Calvin Klein (a brand that helped define American fashion), and in some ways the future of New York fashion, and maybe even, NYFW, was “riding on Leonie’s ability to reinvent sexily.” In that case, we might be in trouble.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear – Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
I wouldn’t say Leoni reinvented sexy. It was a good, solid start, but it was not necessarily a home run. Is that enough? Only time will tell. Veronica proves herself to be a designer with excellent taste and an ability to make good use of her cache of highly informed fashion references.
Leoni’s success is not surprising, given Leoni’s impressive resume. An Italian in Rome, Leoni is a veteran of Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Moncler, and The Row.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear. Photo by Hunter Abrams
It’s impossible not to see the echoes of these designers, including Yohji Yamamoto, Bottega Veneta, Miuccia Prada, Helmut Lang, and, of course, Calvin Klein, in this collection. It’s a testament to Leoni’s rich and diverse fashion journey.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
The collection was pretty much as I expected. The program notes emphasized “clothes for life”. There was a certain sporty elegance, an unforced ease that ran throughout. Nothing was overdone, and there were a few delightful surprises, like the pale satin square-toed satin ballet flats, the sculptural gold metal CK One perfume-shaped bags, some of the eveningwear, and one fabulous highly textural oversized cocoon coat in chocolate brown.
Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
The problem is that the fit is off on many jackets and coats. Veronica had the misfortune of preceding Frances Howie’s debut as creative director of Fforme, one of the most exciting new names to emerge from NYFW since the label’s February 2022 debut. The Howie collection is sensational and everything I had hoped Calvin Klein would be.
“I want to bring the female form to Fforme,” Frances Howie, Creative Director, Fforme.
Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Lauchmetrics for The Impression
Howie, who replaced Paul Helbers as creative director of the three-year-old NY label last July, honed her Savile Row tailoring skills while working for Stella McCartney, and it shows. So does Howie’s time spent as Alber Elbaz’s assistant. She worked for the legendary creative director of Lanvin for three years.
Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
There are many similarities between Calvin Klein and Fforme. Both labels are rooted in American minimalism, focus on luxury sportswear (“clothes for life”), and use a predominantly neutral color palette enlivened with touches of red. There was a bit more color in the murky pastels at Calvin Klein. Not all of it worked.
Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
Like Calvin Klein, Fforme juxtaposes masculine and feminine, hard and soft, day and evening. The difference is that at Fforme, the volume is more controlled; the fit of the coats and jackets is better.
Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
Moreover, Frances Howie uses sensual textures and hand-frayed, hand-shredded details, which add a feeling of playfulness and sensuality that Calvin Klein lacks.
I especially loved Howie’s bias-cut dresses. They were a modern homage to Mme. Gres and Mme. Vionnet.
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My fave is the Gorski. Best look and function to me!
A Marvelous Tribute to IRIS, a one-of-a-kind work of art!
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
LOVE all of this. Thank you, Marilyn. <3