Gary Wassner, Nick Barnhorst, Susan Scafidi, Robert Stephan Cohen, Jeff Trexler – photo by Laurel Marcus

What do Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, The Row, and Rodarte all have in common? If you can’t guess, I’ll tell you – they all had or currently have a family connection at the helm. I attended Fashion Law Institute’s “Death, Divorce, & Drama: Managing the Personal and Professional in Fashion” seminar on Tuesday night, 

“Even the largest conglomerates are family businesses,” explained Professor Susan Scafidi, Founder and Director of the institute. “How do they navigate the personal and professional crossover?” What happens when things go south with a divorce or even a rupture among friends or siblings?

Seated Panel – photo by Laurel Marcus

Popular current examples are the Natalie Massenet/Erik Torstensson split. As for succession plans, there’s Giorgio Armani’s unusual and confusing will in which a portion of the company, which was kept independent during his lifetime, is to be sold to one of the fashion conglomerates of his partner’s choice, while other assets will be owned by family members.

Here to discuss these issues were panelists Gary Wassner, CEO, Hilldun Corporation; Nick Barnhorst, Vice President and General Counsel, Fresh; Robert Stephan Cohen, Senior Partner, Cohen Clair Lans Greifer & Simpson; and Jeff Trexler, Professor of Fashion Ethics, Sustainability, & Development and Director, Comic Book Legal Defense Fund. Professor Scafidi served as moderator.

Since the panelists were speaking off the record, I will not attribute quotes; however, most agreed that the best way for these fashion partnerships to work is through a divide between art and commerce. One partner is the creative, while the other handles the business end of things – left brain vs. right brain. Cited examples include Betsey Johnson & Chantal Bacon, Calvin Klein & Barry Schwartz, and Donna Karan and her late husband Stephan Weiss.

“A partner or relative relationship leads to tremendous stress, fractures, and failures,” said one panelist. “This sometimes tenuous relationship is critical to success and needs to be professionally documented and outlined.” In the case of the cosmetics brand Fresh, the founding partners, married couple Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg, were described as presenting a unified front.

Cases such as Christie Brinkley’s divorce from Architect Peter Cook, Harvey Weinstein’s divorce from Marchesa owner Georgina Chapman, and Tory & Chris Burch’s fractious split were discussed, as well as the fashion brands Three As Four and Cushnie & Ochs – friends who had a falling out.

“Having the right contract is so critical,” said one panelist seeking to define the relationship vs the rules. There are bad contracts that can have “trap doors” or “loopholes,” making it possible for one partner to be completely cut out or to lead “down a 10-year rabbit hole of litigation.

A panelist pointed out that the human aspect is important to consider –“between the law, the business, and being a therapist, they don’t pay me enough.” Sometimes, you can even become an actual punching bag, not just metaphorically, as someone revealed when an infamous movie producer tried to take a swing at him.

Most panelists agreed that creative people are easier to deal with in these situations because “they know what they know and they also know what they don’t know.” What about the division of the intangibles? “Fashion is a very interconnected industry – how to divide the alienation of connections becomes very complicated, and how the industry and couples navigate this becomes very high school”.

“Who’s at the center of society and who gets ostracized – that’s easy in the Harvey Weinstein case,” was one remark. Professor Scafidi mentioned that Georgina Chapman and her Marchesa line were just as tarnished as Harvey, since she was resented for ostensibly knowing about his activities and doing nothing — particularly since her brand’s association is bridal and bridal adjacent. In general, they observed that “people tend to gravitate towards the money.”

What are the concluding takeaways here? “Don’t go into business with your family,” jokingly replied someone. “There should be ‘friend pre-nups – they should start marketing this,” recommended another. Quipped a third: “You know that Saks suit that you’re not sure about in the dressing room? Don’t take it home – it’s not going to get better. Make sure you spend enough time choosing.”

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Susan Scafidi and Sindy Ding – All photos courtesy Fashion Law Institute

“I was up at 5 am scrolling to see if there were any new Executive Orders,” said a weary but still perky Professor Susan Scafidi, Founder and Director of Fashion Law Institute at Fordham, as she opened Friday morning’s “Inside Out 10, Fashion’s In-house Counsel on Playing the Political Hand We’re Dealt” panel.

Inside Out 10 cards

This event always takes place during NYFW and has a cute theme—this time, it was playing cards. If nothing else, the students working the event looked fab as they generally adhered to a red and black dress code.

Is the new president playing the Trump card (haha), or are the “jokers running wild in DC”? The accompanying materials asked how to follow suit with a hand that never comes off the pen, signing “a flood of executive orders,” many of which directly affect the fashion industry.

The panel of seven, moderated by Prof. Scafidi, ran through the deck from tariffs and trade to immigration, DEI programs, and more.

Scafidi, Tenaglia, Buyun, Hansell, Hellman, Valdes Macon, & Firestone

Panelists for this off-the-record discussion included Laura E. Hansell, General Counsel, Kering Americas; Natalia Tenaglia, Legal Coordinator, G-III Apparel Group; Angie Buyun, Principal, AB World; Jeffrey Hellman, Senior Vice President, PVH; Ashley Valdes, Assistant General Counsel, Warby Parker; Hayley Macon, Senior Vice President and Associate General Counsel, Employment, Americas Endeavor; and Louise Firestone, SVP, Legal Affairs and General Counsel (former), LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton Inc.

Since speakers are speaking on behalf of themselves and not for their companies, I will not be attributing any quotes. The opening bid concerned tariffs with China, Mexico, and Canada, which many panelists are watching carefully. There was some fear that Europe would be the next card in the deck—more directly affecting the world of luxury goods—and the fear of retaliatory tariffs.

Thoughts were that costs wouldn’t immediately be passed on to the consumer; they would have to be if this lasts long term. Since a few simple concessions have delayed the Canada and Mexico proposed tariffs, these were threats being used for leverage, which could lead to more US production, similar to the banana trade wars. LVMH opened a Texas factory under the last administration, so anything is possible.

The link between immigration and tariffs, including H-1B visas, was discussed. Who gets to be considered a “highly skilled worker?” Is it based on “stature in your field?” Will new requirements or a lottery limit the number of visas? One panelist suggested that “hiring a foreigner is less expensive than an American employee”—cue globalism refrain.

Interestingly, what one panelist described as pre-election excitement and interest from the Asian market—Japanese, Korean, and Chinese, including K Beauty—in expanding to the US has now been “put on pause”, with a focus on Middle East UAE countries such as Saudi Arabia and Dubai instead.

Meanwhile, concurrently at the White House, Japanese PM Shigeru Ishiba announced he would elevate his investment in the US to a whopping $1 trillion. In general, Asian clients were advised to study the market they’re going into — to develop packaging in the correct language, design, and image selection to appeal to their intended customers.

One panelist quoted Yogi Berra: “Predictions are difficult to make, especially those involving the future,” regarding the trade and tariff situation. Although it’s a very long-term solution to try to change your factories (possibly to onshore again), as are supply chain delays and customs issues similar to those seen after the pandemic, one should “focus on what you can control. There will always be demand for great brands.”

The next card in the deck is AI, technology, and privacy issues brought about by China’s Deep Seek and the US’s Stargate. What tools will be put in place now that we will be interfacing with a much stronger, smarter tech bot online?

Who will authorize the privacy of the data that they collect? How about uses in design and trend analysis? Hacked data and stolen IP? Individual states will likely have different rules to find the right balance. Can AI runway models replace humans?

One panelist thinks not—a hologram doesn’t have the same energy. Fun fact: An avatar based on an actual model must be authorized by the model whose likeness it has used.

Another critical issue is employment training and DEI – how will this affect models and stylists? How about models who are non-binary, trans, or physically disabled? One panelist pointed out that it was always illegal to use race or gender as an employment factor.

There seems to be a shift in title, as in not calling it DEI—perhaps “substance over language” in the private sector. Technically, you are following government laws, but internally, nothing has changed.

Lastly, at the bottom of the deck, what advice do panelists offer to deal with this new reality? One advised having “moral courage,” using Liz Cheney as an example. Counsel from counsel included: “Put on your big boy or big girl or gender non-specific pants” (LOL).

“Maintain perspective—don’t let this take over your life.” “Employ risk management and a willingness to pivot. ” And to quote Tom Brady, “do your f*cking job”—focus on what’s important.” Naturally, someone felt the need to up the ante with “support young undocumented POC who are feeling vulnerable—be a shoulder to lean on.” And no, it was not crying Selena Gomez.

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Amy Fine Collins, Gary Wassner, Nicole Fischelis, Mickey Boardman, Sharon Graubard – photo by Mailyn Kirschner

The Fashion Group International Communique presentation, a noteworthy event that showcases the global fashion weeks for Spring and Summer 2025, was held on Wednesday, November 13, 2024. This key fundraiser for the Fashion Group Foundation took place at LIM College on 5th Avenue and 45th Streets.

The event was sponsored by LIM College and Hilldun Corporation. In the fashion industry, Hilldun Corporation, led by Gary Wassner, is renowned for its financial support to many of Seventh Avenue’s most esteemed fashion companies, providing funding and factoring for numerous iconic labels.

Freddie Leiba, Amy Fine Collins, Marilyn Kirschner

Among those in attendance were fashion designers and former FGI Rising Star winners Epperson and Terry Singh, and fashion veterans Fern Mallis, Freddie Lieba, publicist Deborah Hughes, and Robert Di Mauro.

The Panelists:

The discussion was moderated by Amy Fine Collins, editor-at-large of Graydon Carter’s Air Mail, and featured a panel of influential figures in the fashion industry.

The panelists included Gary Wassner, CEO of Hilldun Corporation; Mickey Boardman, Director of Special Projects at Paper Magazine; Nicole Fischelis, a respected Fashion and Art Forecaster; and Sharon Graubard, the esteemed Founder of The SG files.

Almost seven years ago, I served as a panelist with Mickey Boardman and Nicole Fischelis. It is nearly impossible to count how much has changed since the event was held at Hearst’s iconic 57th Street building. Before that, the longstanding venue of choice was the Time Warner Building.

Katya Tolstova & FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Ron Marshall, LIM President, made his welcoming remarks, followed by FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz, who said that the first such trend report, back in 1948, was a fashion show. For 25 years, Marylou Luther produced and narrated this event, and she did it in her inimitable way.

This trend report was curated by Nicole Fischelis, Gary Wassner, and Sharon Graubard, who admits the group started with 10,000 images and whittled it down from there.

The 12 key trends they highlighted were:

Nicole Fischelis, Nabys Vielman, Sharon Graubard – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Redefined Gentleman (pushing menswear forward); Save the Garden (florals), Denim Craft (an emphasis on artisanal denim), Go Go Cargo (Utilitarian, functional fashion); Sport Luxe (the merging of sports, athletics, streetwear, and fashion); Shirt Story (the crisp freshness of shirting in a variety of iterations); Mini Me (the mini skirt returns); All the News in Black and White (the forever chic combination); Fringe Benefits (incredibly long and swinging versions); Sculptural White (all white shown in its pure form); Sheer Delights (ethereal layers); and Sparkle and Shimmer (all things shiny and optimistic). And boy, can we use this now.

Five Designers to Watch:

Grace Ling Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear – photo Courtesy of Grace Ling

This was followed by Gary Wassner’s picks of 5 fashion designers who are the “Ones to Watch.” Grace Ling is known for her sensual, surrealistic designs. Bad Binch TONGTONG is an avant-garde streetwear label designed by Terrence Zhou that fuses his former math and engineering studies with artistic flair. #

Nabys Vielman Denim Couture Collection inspired by The American Beauty

Venezuelan-born Nabys Vielman’s fashion proposal is based on functionality, comfort, sophistication, style, and innovative forms. His last collection focused on couture denim inspired by The American Beauty. Last but not least is Tommy Hilfiger. Tommy is not exactly ‘new’ on the horizon jokes Wassner, yet he somehow always manages to reinvent himself, as he did this season.

The “Go Global” Section:

Valentino Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear – photo by Valentino

The section was narrated by Nicole Fischelis, who selected her picks of the top European collections. London: Burberry, J.W. Anderson, Marques Almeida, Simon Rocha; Milan: Bottega Veneta, Antonio Marras, Prada, Max Mara; Paris: Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chloe, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Schiaparelli. McQueen, newly designed by Sean McGirr and Valentino under the design tutelage of Alessandro Michele, is admittedly controversial; some loved it, and others did not.

“Sports stars are the most fashionable people; the football field is the new runway” – Mickey Boardman.

In the discussion that followed, Mickey Boardman said he dislikes trends but always likes a bit of sparkle and glitter. He is enamored with the ongoing convergence of sports, athletics, streetwear, and fashion, all magnified in the wake of the Paris Summer Olympics.

Sharon said it is not about trends but about “You Being You” (to paraphrase Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing). In other words, individuality is essential.

Moderator Amy Fine Collins guided the lively conversation on various topics, including the challenging luxury market, New York vs. Europe (we might show first, but we are still remembered), and, naturally, designer musical chairs.

Peter Do – photo by Giovanni Giannini for WWD

This week, Phillip Lim announced that he was stepping down from the eponymous house he founded, and on Wednesday, Peter Do announced that he was leaving Helmut Lang. Do has yet to recapture the magic of those first Peter Co collections, but that’s another subject.

Naturally, who will take over as creative director of Chanel was another topic. Marc Jacobs’ name came up, but Nicole says he apparently wanted too much money (it’s hard to believe anything is too much for this venerable house of Chanel). Anyway, there is reportedly someone who is already headed to the plum job.

Mickey noted that designers are facing a particularly challenging time. As he put it, unless you are an iconic designer like Marc Jacobs or an IT label like Chavarria, you are having a tough time.

Schiaparelli Anatomy Amber Leather Coat and matching bag, photo by Schiaparelli

Another topic of interest was how designers are now becoming more important than the labels they create, taking the DNA of the house and infusing it with their own signature. Case in point: Alessandro Michele in his new role as creative director of Valentino. Similarly, Daniel Roseberry has taken Schiaparelli’s iconic heritage brand and made it his own. Who even remembers the designer who preceded him?

Questions from the Audience:

At the end, audience members could ask the panelists questions. I wanted to know how they thought the new administration would impact the fashion business. As Gary observed, “It will be a challenge,” to put it mildly, as the price of fabrics alone will become astronomical.

This is a hot topic, of course. In fact, in the past few days, there’s been no shortage of articles on Trump’s anticipated tariffs in WWD and The New York Times.

In response to one of the panelists noting that many significant names representing the European press are no longer attending New York Fashion Week as they once had, Fern Mallis questioned the importance of the press. “Who needs the press?” she queried. Indeed, Gary Wassner agreed that you don’t need a writer. All you need are photographs of the clothes posted on Instagram.

That says it all.

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Henri Bendel, Photo Courtesy of Illustrated Milliner, New York Public Library

Henri Willis Bendel, January 22, 1868 – March 22, 1936, was born in Louisiana and moved to New York to work as a milliner. He opened his first shop in Greenwich Village in 1895. In 1907, he began branding the brown-and-white striped boxes, a unique and instantly recognizable feature of the company. The store would eventually move to 5th Avenue and 43rd Street, and in 1913, Henri took over a townhouse at 10 West 57th Street.

When I arrived at Harper’s Bazaar in 1971, the magazine’s offices were at 717 5th Avenue, 55th Street. Henri Bendel, the chicest shopping mecca, was just a few blocks away. It was a destination pulsating with excitement and the promise of finding something extraordinary. I would frequent Bendel’s quite often, and on one outing, Bill Cunningham, who, naturally, stationed himself outside the store, took my picture, the first of many. It appeared in WWD in 1972.

“A name known to many, a man known to few. Henri Willis Bendel was celebrated in his lifetime as a tastemaker and merchant prince but is now a nearly lost figure”. -Tim Allis, “Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned”

“Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned,” UL Press University of Louisiana at Lafayette Click here to order The 264-page hardcover tome, with 324 color and black-and-white images, is published by the University of Louisiana at Lafayette Press and will be released on September 24.

Very little was known about the man behind the name of this legendary store. Like many others, I assumed Henri was a Frenchman if he existed at all. That misconception, among many others, is one of the main reasons Tim Allis, a New York-based writer, editor, and playwright, was inspired to write “Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned.” Lavishly illustrated and designed, it is a deliciously entertaining and informative read.  

Tim Allis, Photo by Michael Lionstar

Tim could not comprehend how somebody who attained such fame in the 20s and 30s would be lost and forgotten in history. He wanted to make sure people knew who and what Henri Bendel was and to clear up the many misconceptions. One misconception is that his wife was French. Henri was briefly married; his wife Blanche Lehman died in childbirth in 1895 along with their baby.

Bendel never remarried. He was openly living with male companions throughout his life. In his will, he made Abraham Beekman Bastedo, an Episcopalian organist and his companion for over 30 years, one of the principal benefactors of his estate.

Abraham lived the rest of his life as President of the store and was buried alongside Mr. Bendel in Valhalla. That said, the relationships were never explicit. There was always a haze over Henri’s private life, but his personal relationships were a significant part of his life and influenced his business decisions.

Many untruthful things were written about Bendel in the Stutz era. For example, it was thought that Ms. Stutz brought in Andy Warhol to illustrate for Henri Bendel. In fact, Ms. Stutz hired Warhol to illustrate for I. Miller when she was President of that company.

Geraldine Stutz in Bendel’s Street of Shops, Photo courtesy Parsons School of Design

The Stutz era was undoubtedly an enthralling time. According to Allis, there was a rumor that Stutz wanted to rename the store Geraldine Stutz. Tim wanted to give Geraldine as much space and prominence as he could fit into the book’s format. Still, his emphasis was first and foremost on Henri Bendel, who unexpectedly died at the age of 68, decades before Ms. Stutz began her career at the store.  

“The unlikely, lively epic of how a gay, Jewish, small-town Southerner became Manhattan’s reigning taste arbiter, Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned is a tour de force” – Amy Fine Collins. 

Tim was initially disheartened by how little information there was about Henri, who never wrote a memoir and had no letters. There was such a lack of information about Henri, especially his personal life, that Tim almost put the project down about 100 times.

One of Tim’s primary sources of information was WWD, not the New York Times. WWD, called Women’s Wear back in the day, had a lot of material about the store and about Henri from the early 1900s through the 30s, which helped Tim capture Henri’s voice.

10-14 West 57th Street in the 60’s, Photo courtesy of Parsons School of Design

That was the magic turnkey for Tim, along with Henri’s very telling columns. Henri wrote a syndicated column giving fashion advice for many years through the 30’s, reaching American women nationwide. In his book, Allis recounts Bendel’s from the bustles and corset years to the days of furs and flappers, to the tailored chic of the 1930s and 1940s to modern times, when Geraldine Stutz transformed Henri Bendel from a carriage trade retailer in decline into a chic emporium of designer brands in the 1960s.

Bendel’s Mansion at Kings Point, Long Island, Photo courtesy of Sally Robbins

Tim’s comprehensive examination of Henri Bendel leaves no stone unturned. The book is filled with beautiful narratives and marvelous descriptions of Henri’s opulent life. Moreover, it bridges the enormous gap in twentieth-century American and French fashion history, providing a comprehensive understanding of Bendel’s influence and leaving the reader feeling knowledgeable about fashion history.

Sketch of a Chanel dress in the Bendel Sketch Collection at the Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn Museum, Henri Bendel LLC

Henri Bendel was not just a retailer, but a significant influencer in the twentieth century, pioneering the luxury fashion industry in the United States. His keen eye for detail and his passion for fashion made him a maestro showman, deeply interested in every aspect of his business and the fashion world. His influence on both American and French fashion is a testament to his visionary approach.  

Bath and Boudoir Bendel Ad in Vogue, 1940, Photo courtesy of Vogue Conde Nast, Henri Bendel, LLC

Henri devised a retail template that we know today.  Many of the things he implemented were ahead of their time, and Tim focuses on all of them. Bendel pioneered in several ways, including branding—he created and sold house-line soaps and perfume and opened satellite stores in Newport and Palm Beach when that was rarely done. His innovations continue to shape the fashion industry.

Erte Sketch circa 1916, Photo Courtesy of Chalk and Vermilion, LLC, Artists Rights Society (ARC)

The early ones were seasonal pop-up shops. Bendel was also innovative and somewhat democratized sales, starting out relatively high-end and expanding with offerings at different price points and accessories. He also introduced clearance sales to fine fashion. Bendel was not only the pre-eminent ambassador of French fashion in America, but he also encouraged the development of American styles.

Tim says in his book, “Henri was having his brioche and eating it too.”  Much is being written about the Battle of Versailles when American designers stormed Paris in the 1970s.

Lillian Gish in a Bendel Gown, Photo courtesy of Library of Congress

However, the first salvos were fired in 1915 when Vogue’s Edna Woodman Chase staged the Fashion Fete to promote American designers. She credited Bendel’s signing on first as the key to its success, getting other shops and designers to join in.

Abraham Bastedo, and Henri Bendel, Photo courtesy of Elizabeth Marchesan

In 1913, Henri was the first to set up shop on the traditionally residential West 57th Street, known as “La Rue de la Paix of New York” .Other high-end fashion stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, followed suit. Bendel was an incredibly shrewd and successful businessman, but he was also a compassionate employer concerned about modernizing workrooms. Henri was exceedingly generous. In June 1923, Bendel gave his employees a 45 percent stake of the store’s full $4 million worth of capital stock, distributed over five years in quarter-million-dollar lots.

While Bendel was an avowed Francophile, he was not born in France and did not have a silver spoon in his mouth. He was born in Lafayette, Louisiana, to a close, tight-knit Jewish family headed by his immigrant stepfather and mother.

Henri’s nurturing parents supported and encouraged young Henri to pursue his obvious talents and passions. It’s a classic case of nature and nurture and a prime example of the archetypical Jewish commitment to education, culture, and being well-dressed. Tim says Henri’s parents’ commitment to education just “leaps out” of his story.By the time Henri was a teenager, he spoke Parisian French and Latin at a Jesuit college. The French Henri learned in Louisiana  facilitated relations with the Parisian couture houses. 

Falk’s Store in Lafayette, Louisiana, Photo courtesy of Lafayette Parish Clerk of Court, Louis J. Perre

As great merchants in Lafayette, Louisiana, Henri’s parents served as prodigious role models. Henri’s mother, Mary, a great merchandiser who became a prominent retail businesswoman, was born in Prussia, and his father, who passed away when Henri was a young boy, was a German Jew. After he died, Mary would later remarry Benjamin Falk in 1878, a man who became established as one of the most influential Lafayette-based businessmen at the time.  

Although Bendel converted to Christianity by the time he finished schooling, most of his family, with whom he remained close, continued to practice Judaism. I asked Tim what he hoped readers would take away from the book. He said that he hopes they discover this lost figure of fashion retail—once so well-known not just in New York but throughout the country—known by reputation and women reading the syndicated columns he penned in the 1920s and 1930s.    

The last stop, 714 5th Avenue, Photo by Steven VanAuken

Henri Bendel closed all their stores on January 19, 2019, and shut down its website soon after. The brand ended after 123 years in business. Is it possible for Bendel’s to rise again? Anything is possible. Bath & Body Works still has the right to the name.

Coincidentally, Barneys, which was unquestionably originally molded after Bendel’s (as Tim says, it was “Barneys before Barneys”), is debuting a five-week-only pop-up in Soho starting September 5.

The activation, which honors the start of New York Fashion Week and pays homage to the store’s original downtown location (it eventually moved to Madison Avenue by 61st Street on the Upper East Side), will run through October 11 at 14 Prince Street by Elizabeth Street.

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John Bartlett and Kate Sheldon – All photos by Stacy Lomman

In today’s economy, it is remarkable that one can buy an outfit for the same price as a latte. Fast fashion companies like H&M, Topshop, Forever 21, Fashion Nova, and Shein have been churning out cheap garments for years, and newcomer Temu has exploded since its 2022 debut by offering items for little more than pocket change.

Manufacturing on a mass scale is not only environmentally irresponsible, wasteful, and, in most cases, unethical, but it also results in an inferior product. Garments wear out quickly, and because they can be replaced so inexpensively, customers are motivated to throw out the old and buy new so regularly that these items are considered “disposable clothing.”

Overproduction has contributed to global waste on a colossal level. According to Earth.org, approximately 92 million tons of apparel end up in landfills every year. The average US consumer throws away over 80 lbs of clothing annually. The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater and 10% of carbon emissions. Additionally, nearly 10% of the microplastics dispersed in the ocean each year come from textiles.

Caroline Priebe (Driftless Goods)

Shifting the Paradigm with “Slow Fashion”

In recent years, “slow fashion,” which prioritizes quality over quantity, values fair labor practices, and carefully considers how to reduce the impact on the environment, has gained momentum. Consumers are increasingly aware of the adverse effects that manufacturing has on the ecosystem and are looking for sustainable options.

As a result, vintage apparel, upcycling, and resale have become more mainstream, and designers passionate about sustainability are acting to align themselves with responsible, eco-friendly sources, suppliers, and manufacturers.

Maxine Trowbridge (Eve & Max)

Luxury fashion veteran and pioneer Kate Sheldon shares this passion. This former Neiman Marcus buyer started her consultancy company in 2007 and is the founder and CEO of The Fashioneering Lab (TFL), which launched in 2021. The TFL Community is a global network of industry executives and brand owners collaborating to drive essential industry transformation and future-proof the fashion sector while actively learning from one another.

Kate Sheldon & Tamara Davydova (Minimalist)

Sheldon described the business as 360 degrees of consultancy focusing on luxury brands that lean heavily into sustainability, innovation, and inclusivity — things important to her heart. “We’re a disrupter,” Sheldon said. “We’re coming up against old systems where people are producing six collections a year, which is inherently the least sustainable thing we should be doing.”

Vaishali Shadangule (Vaishali S)

Spotlighting The New Innovators

On Tuesday, TFL debuted its inaugural showcase at Studio 250 (250 West 40th Street), presented by KnitUp, Cobalt, Recurate, Natural Fiber Welding, Alternew, Style With Substance, and The Phluid Project. The showcase features designer and contemporary luxury brands that prioritize sustainability, technological innovation, ethical labor practices, and those shifting from linear to circular models, which aim to create a closed-loop system, reducing waste and maximizing the lifespan of clothing and textiles.

Elizabeth Goodwin Wellborn (Stick & Ball)

Eight designers from all over the world are exhibiting their collections through June 15th. The group is diverse, and while each designer has a unique story and point of view, they share the same core environmental values and foster fair labor practices.

The featured designers include Vaishali Shadangule (Vaishali S), Maxine Trowbridge (Eve & Max), Tamara Davydova (Minimalist), Paige Andreas (Arianna Andreas), Elizabeth Goodwin Wellborn (Stick & Ball), Rob Smith (The Phluid Project), Caroline Priebe (Driftless Goods), and Daryl Kerrigan (Daryl K).

Daryl K merchandise

Coinciding with the showcase launch on Tuesday evening, industry leaders gathered for a private cocktail reception and discussed new regulations reshaping the fashion industry. Attendees included former Creative Director, Global Forecaster, and Visual Storyteller for Saks Fifth Avenue, Ferragamo and Macy’s, Nicole Fischelis, and award-winning designer, animal rights activist, founder of The Tiny Tim Rescue Fund, and Director of Fashion for Executive and Professional Studies at Parsons/The New school, John Bartlett.

Rob Smith (The Phluid Project) and Nicole Fischelis

Redefining Luxury

TFL’s Executive in Residence and Advocate for Legal Excellence in Luxury Fashion and Sustainability, Elizabeth Henries, joined the conversation via Zoom from London, where she had just received an award for the Luxury Law Firm of the Year – Independent Law Firm.

Henries is the Founder and CEO of Henries PLLC, a boutique firm that provides integrated legal services to some of the world’s best-known luxury companies. Teri Agins, an award-winning journalist, author, lecturer, consultant, and former senior writer and columnist at The Wall Street Journal, served as the moderator.

Teri Agins

“The fashion industry is redefining luxury beyond the high price tag,” said Agins. “New luxury is quiet, modern, and responsible.” Henries agreed that consumers are looking for unique, artisan pieces, and they’re excited to explore new, custom brands like KnitUp, which utilizes digital technology that enables individuals to design their own pieces by selecting silhouettes, yarn qualities, color, and stitch patterns from KnitUp’s library.

The Phluid Project

“There’s a new generation of savvy consumers who are done with showing logos and cheap fads. They’re interested in upcycling, searching for high-quality and exclusive merchandise,” Agins said. Two retailers that Henries feels offer this experience and product assortment are London-based Wolf & Badger, a global online marketplace for independent brands with storefronts in London, NYC, and Los Angeles, and Cult Mia, an online platform that specializes in curating pieces that can’t be found elsewhere.

Wolf & Badger’s mission is building a community of ethical brands and conscious consumers who positively impact the world. Cult Mia requires every brand they carry to align with one of their four key values – sustainability, protecting local heritage, minority empowerment, and social consciousness. A portion of every sale order is donated to a charity.

Paige Andreas (Arianna Andreas)

Breaking Away From Outdated Models

“The traditional brick-and-mortar department store just doesn’t work anymore in the world of e-commerce. There’s too much product for that model,” Henries said. She highlighted UK retailer Selfridges as an example of a company reinventing itself to stay competitive.

The store’s new initiative, Project Earth, offers consumers more sustainable ways to shop. “RESELFRIDGES” consists of the five Rs: Resale (pre-owned), Repair, Refill, Rent, and Recycle. Shopping for pre-owned merchandise at a discount and renting designer apparel is not exactly a new concept, but it’s a vital step in the right direction for a large retailer.

The store also introduced a concierge service where customers can bring their favorite handbags, apparel, shoes, and jewelry to be repaired, reducing waste and consumption.

Tamara Davydova (Minimalist)

“Sustainability can be a huge cost saver. When a company starts making sustainable choices, they start saving money,” Henries said. “They’re shipping less and using less material, so they will inevitably spend less.” She explained that investors are becoming increasingly interested in sustainability, and many are approaching these ventures from an artisan perspective, where the goal is to preserve the art form through business practice and education to ensure that future generations can continue the craft.

“That’s encouraging,” Agins agreed. “I think sustainability is creativity, innovation, and exclusivity. That’s what the consumers want – what the younger generation wants.” She added, “My generation grew up with high-end clothes still in the department stores. We knew quality, and we understood connoisseurship, and I think that’s something the younger generation is trying to get back to because they see it in the vintage clothes — they see the workmanship.”

TFL’s Kate Sheldon sees all this promise embodied in the showcase participants and their companies. “As consultants, designers, retailers, and media members, we have a responsibility to present better options to customers, and this is a room full of people trying to do that.” She said, “It will be hard, but incredible things are happening, and I’m excited for the future.”

Latest Comments:

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   What a great talent Ruben is …… in addition to being a thoroughly lovely man. And the legacy of his…

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All photos courtesy of Distinctive Assets

For the 22nd year, Distinctive Assets is producing its legendary “Everyone Wins” Nominee Gift Bag, which will be distributed to select 2024 Oscar nominees. The Los Angeles-based marketing firm is led by Lash Fary, the pioneer of celebrity swag. He describes this yearly gift giveaway as “celebrity marketing with a mission.”

“We are humbled that our ‘Everyone Wins’ Nominee Gift Bag continues to garner worldwide media attention and spark conversation,” says Fary. “While our gifts may be famous for being fun, fabulous, and unique, they also elevate small businesses, minority-owned brands, female entrepreneurs, and companies who give back.”

The top Oscar acting and directing nominees, including Lily Gladstone, Carey Mulligan, Sterling K. Brown, and Mark Ruffalo, will be invited to enjoy luxury vacations in the Swiss Alps and St. Barts and a retreat to the Golden Door:

Chalet Zermatt Peak, Switzerland

Zermatt, Switzerland

Each nominee and up to nine guests will have exclusive use of this privately run chalet, perched high above the picturesque village of Zermatt, Switzerland. During their three-night stay, an award-winning professional staff will cater to their needs, and they will enjoy “breathtaking” views of the Matterhorn.

The six-story chalet has five deluxe bedroom suites featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, en suite luxury bathrooms, and cinematic televisions with digital surround sound. There is also a wellness center with a private gym and a full treatment spa.

https://www.chaletzermattpeak.com/en

Saint-Barth Paradise

Saint-Bath Paradise

The six villas of Saint-Barth Paradise offer all the “comforts of home” with the amenities and services of a luxury hotel. Nominees and their guests will enjoy a three-night getaway to one of the island’s most luxurious villas. Each villa has three to seven bedrooms, and every room has a spectacular view of the Caribbean Sea.

A personalized concierge service is available to assist guests with planning their stay, activities, dining experiences, and even babysitting. The Saint-Barth Paradise managers and staff are dedicated to providing guests a unique experience.

https://saintbarthparadise.com/

Golden Door

Golden Door resort

During a seven-day retreat at this 600-acre Southern California resort, nominees will be invited to “experience a transformation of mind, body, and spirit.” The Golden Door offers 80 rejuvenating classes, nourishing meals with nutrition education and cooking classes, 30 miles of hiking and walking trails, sessions with a personal trainer, and a daily massage. In addition, the resort has pledged to donate 100% of its net profits to charity.

www.goldendoor.com

The “Everyone Wins” gift assortment will also give Hollywood A-listers like Emma Stone, Ryan Gosling, Bradley Cooper, and Christopher Nolan a chance to discover a selection of bags, edible treats, beauty and wellness brands, and an eclectic mix of products:

ELBOQUE

Elboque Obelia Satchel

ELBOQUE Couture was founded by a woman who had previously worked as an international development aid worker in Central Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. During that time, she learned firsthand about the versatility of sheepskin as a material for clothing and accessories. This led her to launch her ELBOQUE (which means blessing) Couture fashion line using only 100% genuine shearling and leather. Each EBOQUE bag is a one-of-a-kind piece that is handmade by master artisans.

https://elboque.ca/

Overnight Travel Bags

Vegan leather bags

These high-quality genuine leather and vegan leather bags are stylish yet practical and designed for professional or leisure travel.

https://www.overnighttravelbags.com/

Rubik’s Cube

This iconic toy celebrates its 50th birthday with a Rubik’s Retro Cube edition in 1980s packaging.

https://www.rubiks.com/

Fetcha Chocolates

Fetcha chocolates awards collection

Self-described as “Scotland’s premier eco-friendly vegan chocolate shop,” Fetcha Chocolates has created a 24-piece box of chocolates featuring six flavors, named for six of the films nominated for the Best Picture Oscar. The Awards Collection box includes flavors like Oppenheimer: dark chocolate chili ganache coated in popping candy, Barbie: strawberry and rose white chocolate ganache, and Killers of the Flower Moon: dark chocolate caramel ganache.

https://fetchachocolates.com/

dooplikit

3D figurine set

Nominees will have the opportunity to get “doopt.” A doopt is a 3-D-printed, full-color selfie figurine set on a mirrored platform base and displayed in an acrylic case. It is a truly unique gift.

http://www.dooplikit.com/

Eatable

Artisanal Popcorn

The husband-and-wife team behind Eatable trained with professional pastry chefs to learn artisanal cooking methods. This enabled them to develop their “perfect pairings” of gourmet popcorn infused with the flavors of wines, spirits, and cocktails. Thanks to their innovative cooking process, their popcorn snacks contain virtually zero alcohol. They are also free of many unhealthy ingredients commonly found in snack foods, like high fructose corn syrup.

The “Poparazzi” Luxe Popcorn Tin features three gourmet, Hollywood inspired popcorn flavors: Whisky on the Pops, Pop the Champagne, and Black Truffle Pops.

https://eatable.com/

“While this gift bag does, as always, have an impressive six-figure value, that is neither our focus nor goal,” says Fary. He adds that these actors “can afford to buy these things; they are also in a uniquely favorable marketing position. This is a straightforward win/win transaction.”

Latest Comments

1. 

   FROM: American fashion designer Ralph Rucci: A major home run! How extraordinary this young lady is, and along with her…

2. 

   test comment

3. 

   Marilyn, You look absolutely fabulous! And this Elsa Schiaparelli bag !!!! We have met a few times at different events.…

4. 

   An Explosion of stunning and playful creativity inspired by the Glorious BEAUTY of ORCHIDS!!!

5. 

   What a great talent Ruben is …… in addition to being a thoroughly lovely man. And the legacy of his…

6. 

   Hi, I am looking to relaunch my website, with an interactive plateform. Can you recommend someone with the creative and…

7. 

   This is all very sad considering what Klein and Schwartz built and what Costa did to advance the history of…

8. 

   A collection of Random Disasters that disgraces what was Calvin Klein !

The post The 2024 “Everyone Wins” Nominee Gift Bag appeared first on lookonline.

Casa Cipriani Jazz Club

New York’s nightlife came to a halt during the pandemic and crime wave in 2020-2022; as a group of private members only clubs sprung up resulting in a preemption of the ubiquitous club scene. As night spots 1 OAK, Up and Down, and Avenue closed their doors, club crawlers turned to ultra exclusive enclaves to fraternize despite their exorbitant price points and arduous vetting processes. 100-year-old institutions like the Harmonie, Core, Union and Metropolitan Club which have catered to old and newer money such as the Vanderbilts, Astors, Hearst’s, Eisenhowers and Lauders were replaced by bourgeois meccas Casa Cipriani, Zero Bond and Aman whose coveted membership list includes the upper echelons of the finance, arts and entertainment industry.

I know a handful of “CAZ”‘s an acronym I use to describe those who belong to Casa, Aman and Zero Bond; and these three memberships are harder to attain then an EGOT and more lusted after than admission to Harvard, Princeton and Yale. Mayor Eric Adams loves all these New York meccas frequently hopping from one to the next with abandon! And yes there is plenty of controversy at these hidden fortresses. For instance did you know a top New York socialite’s membership was revoked after she brought her friend to Aman who was caught sniffing cocaine at an open table? These are not the clubs of the 90’s where drug use was rampant – a whiff of any narcotic is completely prohibited.

Soho House

Ushering in the private club era was Soho House: founded in 1995 and maintaining an initiation fee of $1,000 and an all access membership of $4,815 per year. Its aggressive expansion is unparalleled: opening 18 new venues in 2023 to add to its 28 clubs while losing creative identity in favor of economic gains. Now referred to as the “Membership Collective Group”owner Ron Burkle who finally turned a $13.5 million profit in 2022 plans to open 5-7 Soho Houses per year.

Casa Cipriani ballroom

The more exclusive Casa Cipriani, located in the boondocks at 10 South Street, has emerged victorious in the club wars. Its doors opened on August 16, 2021 to a crowd of 3,000 some of whom paid for a global individual membership that requires a $2,000 initiation fee along with a $5,000 annual stipend. Page Six recently reported its trashy vibe was forcing it to seek a more artsy crowd; this is absolutely fake news which many think was contrived by competing clubs.

Casa Cipriani

With its 4,000 person waitlist Casa houses the top real estate developers, financiers and creative types – every night of the week is brimming with A-listers. Yes they have cracked down on photo-snapping; but that is because their high powered crowd is camera shy. A second home to Leonardo DiCaprio, Kate Hudson and Gigi Hadid, this hotspot’s only wannabes are those who wanna be members! The only way to circumvent the impossible entry is pursuing an exorbitant and more easily attained $150,000 lifetime membership and pray your life span increases to 200. With a restaurant, terrace, and jazz club located on the fifth floor, this mahogany masterpiece looks like the Titanic without the sinking part. In fact this mega hit is very much afloat after being awarded a $100 million refinancing bridge loan in April 2023 as the glitterati of New York clamor for entry.

Taylor Swift may have relinquished her Casa membership due to photos being taken of her and flavor of the month Matt Healy but she should have known Swifties abound in her neighborhood – downtown New York. With a Casa in Milan, one rumored to be on its way to Miami and whispers of a Beverly Hills branch – there is no stopping the Cayre family-who hold a 30 percent stake and their investors. A rooftop pool is scheduled to open this August in New York to accompany the current 15,000 square foot spa and 47-room hotel.

Despite its three-guest policy Casa’s packed dining room and terrace area can barely contain excessive weekend crowds that show little signs of abating. The versatility of the crowd which ranges from age 21-91 is what makes this melting pot so uniquely New York. Don’t bother showing up in a hoodie, ripped jeans and baseball cap as my friend who did so was forced to make a quick trip to Soho to purchase a $5,000 leather jacket and pants to ensure entry. Eric Adams dumped Zero Bond in favor of Casa Cipriani’s Gilded halls months ago – a harbinger of its premier spot on the New York social calendar.

Zero Bond

Zero Bond, the least friendly place in New York, similarly maintains “zero chance” of entry. Jeff Bezos, Elon Musk and Michael Rubin, are a smattering of the billionaires who have dined and partied there. Opened in October 2020, initiation for those over 45 is $5,000 along with a $4,400 per annum payment, as opposed to $1,000 and $3,850 per annum for those 28-45. Applying is futile unless you are besties with owner Scott Sartiano who famously told Bloomberg, “I’m putting up a gate, I’m building a wall, and there’s criteria to get inside”- that sounds hospitable. This cavernous space is frequently uninhabited and says stay away as tables are separated by partitions and guests have a disdainful who the heck are you look.

Zero Bond

Aside from a minimal work space, an average restaurant run by executive chef Richard Farnabe, a Tuesday night poker game and an overcrowded bar Zero Bond offers little except the cache of being able to say you belong. With members such as Tom Brady, Zac Posen, Liev Schreiber and Kim Kardashian (the only one who goes) this 20,000 square foot Noho space containing $10 million in art feels as convivial as an iceberg in Antártica. However, if you can get past these velvet ropes and the 8,000 person wait list you and your three permitted guests have arrived in more ways than one. There is even a VIP Baccarat room which requires fingerprint scanners for entrance.

14th Floor of Aman New York

At the top of the heap in terms of beauty and price is Aman located at a more convenient 730 Fifth Avenue, with a $200,000 initiation fee along with $15,000 annual dues. If you are lucky enough to join with 5 others for $40,000 each you can enjoy the numerous wine tastings, Wednesday night DJ and $10 million basement Jazz Club. After a $1.5 billion renovation completed in August 2022, the epic 14th floor terrace along with the 25,000 square foot spa with a 66 foot indoor pool and restaurants Arva and Nama-is a welcome haven from the chaos of New York.

Aman Restaurant

While a more generous policy of five guests is permitted, there is a blacklist of those prohibited from entering the main 14th floor room. In 2024 this elegant edifice will open in the Faena district of Miami after owner Vladimir Doronin secured a $243 million loan.

The brisk openings of New York private clubs is only gaining steam as Major Food Group is bringing ZZ’s to 3 floors across 25,000 square feet at 37 Hudson Yards for an initial fee of $50,000 along with a $10,000 annual payment. A private Carbone, a boutique nightclub and a multiple private dining rooms are planned for this space. Moreover, London nightlife king Robin Birley is planning a repeat of his London enclave 5 Hertford Street at 12,000 square feet on 828 Madison Avenue.

Finally, Californian staple San Vicente Bungalows which Harry and Meghan frequent along with Harry unwinding in a private “escape” room there sans Meghan, will join operator Jeff Klein at the West Village’s Jane Hotel for a private members only club entitled “SVB NYC”- paradigmatic of the out-of-control burgeoning exclusive access trend that shows little signs of waning.

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The start of the meeting – All Photos by Lisa Kato

The United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network Annual Meeting, co-convened by the United Nations Office for Partnerships and the Fashion Impact Fund are supported by Calik Denim, Lenzing, The LYCRA Company, and Renewcell.

The June 1 meeting was held from 1:30pm – 6pm at the United Nations Headquarters in New York, followed by an evening reception from 6pm – 8pm.

150 Industry leaders, media and United Nations representatives came together in 12 related panel discussions to highlight actions, solutions, and progress from the fashion and lifestyle sectors to advance sector engagement in the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals.

Considering the fashion and lifestyle sector’s significant impact on societies and the environment, this Annual Meeting reviewed how the sectors are mobilizing expertise, innovation, technology, and resources towards achieving a more just and equitable world. Its key objective is to explore how initiatives are fostering transparent, inclusive, and transformative engagement of global stakeholders guided by the Sustainable Development Goals.

Welcome & Opening Remarks:

Kerry Bannigan

Kerry Bannigan, Co-Founder, United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network and Executive Director, Fashion Impact Fund

“To date the Network has over 200 members in 64 countries who have pledged over 1200 commitments to the SDGs. Today’s meeting provides a platform for global leaders, experts and stakeholders to share their insights and experiences towards creating a more equitable and just sector that in turn will transform communities for people and planet.”

Annemarie Hou

Annemarie Hou Executive Director United Nations Office for Partnerships

“The presence of so many powerful voices and influencers gives me huge hope that the industry can become part of the solution.”

Members & Invited Guests:

Industry advocates, changemakers and voices at the annual meeting included Ginger Zee, Chief Meteorologist, ABC News; Steven Kolb, Chief Executive Officer, Council of Fashion Designers of America; Camilla Mellander, Consul General of Sweden in New York; Isabella Marras, Senior Programme Management Officer – Interagency Affairs, United Nations Environment Programme; Beate Andrees, Special Representative to the United Nations and Director, International Labour Organization Office for the United Nations; Ursula Wynhoven, Representative to the United Nations, ITU; Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO, Copenhagen Fashion Week; Saad Amer, Founder and CEO, Justice Environment; and Ngozi Okaro, Executive Director, Custom Collaborative; Madhu Vaishnav, Founder and Director, Saheli Women; Nkwo Onwuka, Founder and Creative Director, NKWO; Omar Salam, Founder, Designer and Creative Director, SUKEINA; Omoyemi Akerele, Founder and CEO, Lagos Fashion Week; Niccolò Sbaraglia, Head of Commercial Development, Polimoda; Laurence Carr, CEO and Creative Director, Laurence Carr, Inc.

Panel: Omar Salam, Founder, SUKEINA, Designer & Creative Director; Carmen Gama, Eileen Fisher, Director of Circular Design

The Panels:

In Conversation: The House of LR&C

Climate Action: Culture Advancing Impact

Responsible Consumption and Production: Scaling Solutions for the Global Community

Partnerships for the Goals: Harnessing Industry Collaborations to Achieve Transformative Action

Industry, Innovation and infrastructure: Designing a Better Future

Reduced Inequalities: Breaking Barriers to Achieve Inclusion for All

Quality Education: Fostering Creativity in the Next Generation of Fashion Leaders

Decent Work and Economic Growth: Redefining Success Across the Value Chain

Spotlight: United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network

Life on Land: The Role of the Lifestyle Sector

Reception:

Outdoor terrace overlooking the East River

The annual meeting reception, supported by Seedlip, included a Solutions Showcase highlighting network members sustainable best practices and innovations from Avocado, Calik Denim, Global Fashion Exchange, Lenzing, Made Trade, Nuba Arts x The Canvas, The House of LR&C and The LYCRA Company.

Contact:

For more information link to: United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network or contact Megan McAstocker [megan@fashionimpactfund.org].

The post United Nations Conscious Fashion & Lifestyle Network Annual Meeting appeared first on lookonline.

A little over a year ago, Fashion Group International checked in with luxury retailers on Madison Avenue to see how they were faring during the Covid-19 pandemic we now known as Alpha. As we move along the Greek alphabet to the Delta variant, it is time to check back in for a progress report. I guess it’s safe to say that while we await the return of the red carpet, at least the welcome mat is out.

Thursday’s Zoom event dealt with one ultra-exclusive block between 63rd and 64th Streets as Marc Hruschka, CEO & President of Graff USA; Paul Lorraine, President/CEO of Longchamp and Andrew Wright, president/CEO President, Americas & CCO of Manolo Blahnik, shared their lived high-end retail experiences.

Moderator Mickey Alam Khan, Chairman/CEO/Editor-in-Chief of Luxury Daily, kicked off the event (sponsored by the Madison Avenue Business Improvement District) by professing his “tremendous affection for this street,” which he both works and lives (albeit lives in the less chic low 80s.)

Graff was founded 60 years ago by Laurence Graff and is run by his son Francois. The first Graff store in New York was also a “tiny little jewel box” on Madison Avenue. About ten years ago, they moved to the corner of 63rd Street, where it remains one of three or four global flagships. “There is some serious wealth in that store,” remarked Khan.

French luxury leather goods company Longchamp was founded in Paris in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain. Lorraine, who is in charge of developing business for the US, said it is a pleasure working to serve the brand – “I’m looking forward to the next 73 years.” “If you want to feel cheerful, walk into this colorful store,” said Khan.

For those who remember the relatively tiny Manolo Blahnik store on 54th St west of Fifth Avenue made uber famous by Carrie aka Sarah Jessica Parker in “Sex and The City,” the recent move to a 1923 landmarked Madison location featuring two adjacent stores for men and women, is an exciting upgrade. Wright, who joined the brand in London four years ago, moved to NY two years ago to open the benchmark. “Two months in, so far so good,” he said.

How are these brands adapting to the changes of the last 16 to 18 months? “Let’s not forget the lessons of 2020,” said Hruschka. “We’ve had to find new ways to engage our customers when we’re usually careful about change. Here we’ve compressed six years of change into six months while trying to keep things that were the best of 2020 with what came before.”

Luckily, he reports the ultraluxe category of fine jewels is “experiencing growth and roaring back. Supply couldn’t keep up with demand for high-quality gemstones since the mines and the cutting and polishing houses were all closed for a year.” Although the jewelry business is “high touch,” they have been able to reach out to their global clients through pictures and videos using models to “put it on the body.” When all else fails, they make house calls, even if that house is in Jackson Hole or Palm Beach.

Lorraine of Longchamp also shares similar challenges with customer engagement. During this time, he explained the focus is more on “business on your doorstep than international. We’ve positioned ourselves for the local business since tourism probably won’t return until 2023. We’re more bespoke now – there’s more ‘theater’ to make people come in rather than go online.”

Arriving in New York in the throes of the first wave of the pandemic, he said it felt “surreal it was so quiet. Now the confidence is coming back. Retailers are the most resilient people on God’s green earth – we cannot stand still, or we’ll disappear. We must focus on the customer and on being better.”

Manolo Blahnik is a family-run business celebrating its 50th year, but what of the decision to open such a big store at such an inopportune time? “We’re into it for the long term,” explained Wright. “It was very different during the pandemic since 100% of our shoes are made in Italy – we work with the same artisans and try to protect them. As E.M. Forster said, if you don’t connect with your clients, you are dead in the water.” Taking inspiration from Mr. Blahnik and his niece, CEO Kristina in the tiny Chelsea (London) store, customers are offered coffee, smoothies, or fruit juice to make the experience more relaxed. “It’s less about selling and more about socializing,” Wright said.

How do you succeed in reaching your customer base through omnichannel, and what retailer does it best? Hruschka of Graff looks to other brands for inspiration on making things special — something they could appropriate to add value to their client experience. “We never rush anyone out of the store. Someone has to fall in love with the product to want it. We used to feature a publication (“Graffiti”) twice a year, but we have pivoted to smaller print catalogs of product lines. People will walk in with the catalog and say ‘I’m interested in this.’”

“Any company who got through the last twenty months deserves credit,” said Lorraine. “It’s been incredibly rough on mom and pop stores, restaurants, hotels. Some are very proactive in trying to grow their business.”

What of the digital experience? “People are desperate to get back to face-to-face meetings,” said Wright mentioning that MB used a “gallery experience for digital.” “We’ve focused on mental health by taking some of Mr. Blahnik’s favorite drawings to be printed and colored by kids.”

David Moin of WWD asked the $64,000 question regarding the high degree of vacancies on Madison Avenue. Can landlords be “more understanding” about rents while they have to meet their mortgages? What about offering short-term leases to tempt others to come in rather than have empty storefronts? Lorraine mentions that this is a problem in the UK as well. Hruschka adds that “our block is critical and sets the tone for the whole street. I’d like to see the Roberto Cavalli space filled on the corner,” he added.

Marc Hruschka was asked if Graff has tried appealing to a younger customer. By beginning to offer smaller stones of 1.5 to 2 carats in addition to their usual five to seven-carat diamonds and some items with lower price points — $7,500 to $75,000 — they include more “starter pieces.” They are also trying to grow their customer base by enticing some clients from going to other retailers for gifts with more affordable options.

Of course, someone brought up that dreaded word—sustainability. Lorraine mentioned that the famous Le Pliage bag is transforming into fully sustainable nylon for 2023. “How can we improve and do better? Already as high craftsmen, we have no waste,” he said. Wright referred to sustainability discussions as “opening Pandora’s Box” since leather is a by-product of the food chain; however, people are eating a lot less meat. “We are looking into non-leather leathers, satins…we have a few things in the works but a long way to go,” he said.

Lastly, how does the future look from the view on Madison Avenue? Lorraine sees “blue skies – people are coming back. Given what we went through, nothing really frightens me now.” Hruschka is feeling “bullish for the remainder of 2021. We’ve got our foot to the floor, pouring gasoline on the fire. Knock on wood; it’s paying off. We’ve been through a lot, like Paul said. Nothing scares me anymore.” Wright agrees – “It’s made us stronger, I hope. Great things are happening for our 50th anniversary.” (He couldn’t say much, but I would think it’s safe to say we’ll see some SATC tie-in for the movie release of “And Just Like That”).

Khan’s advice? “Invest in your neighbors, not tourists. Get to know your neighbors very well.” And his key to weathering the ups and downs? “Accept that there are some days when you’re the pigeon and some days when you’re the statue.”

The post FGI’s “On the Avenue: The Welcome Mat is Out” appeared first on lookonline.