Christian Lacroix Photo Condé Nast Archive
On January 7, 2025, Spanish fashion group Sociedad Textil Lonia (STL) announced the completion of its acquisition of the famed French haute couture brand. The company promised “they would do everything we can to ensure that the unique talent of its creator and his invaluable contribution to the fashion world reach their full potential.” The terms of the deal were not disclosed.
Founded in 1997, STL is a Spanish designer, manufacturer, distributor, and retailer of the fashion brands Purification Garcia and CH Carolina Herrera. Both are considered to be mid-price luxury “lifestyle” collections rather than high-end aspirational luxury lines.
Christian Lacroix Fall 1999 Couture, Photo Condé Nast Archive
Christian Lacroix has maintained its signature luxurious and flamboyant design style since its first haute couture women’s collection for Fall/Winter 1987. This begs the question of whether or not they are equipped to handle fashion at its highest artistic level.
The fashion house’s collapse served as a bleak reminder that haute couture rarely makes money and ready-to-wear is a tough business unless global sales are big enough to support high fixed costs.
The company’s history of financial fragility, including the lack of profit in its 23 years and the impact of the 2008 global spending slump, does not diminish the potential for a successful revival. Despite the potential challenges, a Lacroix reboot holds significant promise.
There is a place for powerful opulence, exaggeration and fun which was clearly proven throughout Dries Van Noten’s breathtaking Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear collection.
This wedding gown is one of Christian’s favorites, Christian Lacroix Spring 2008 Couture, Condé Nast Archive
One non-negotiable aspect of the brand’s future is the need for a strong creative director. With his unique and prolific creativity, Christian Lacroix is a prime candidate for this role. Since closing his couture house in 2009, Christian has returned to his first love, costume design, and continues producing diverse creative works.
“The hope is that Christian designs the line again. He seems up for it. I’m not sure if they would do haute couture. I only know that Christian will do it if the terms are correct and to his liking.” – Christine Suppes, Philanthropist, Visionary Fashion Collector.
Christian Lacroix Fall 2005 Couture brocade worn by Christine Suppes, Condé Nast Archive
It was reported that the couturier was called before the announcement and has given his blessings but will not be formally involved with the brand. Christine Suppes has a different take, and she should know. The San Francisco-based philanthropist, patron of the arts, collector, and longtime couture client is a close friend of Christian Lacroix, and they speak regularly.
Christine Suppes donated this Christian Lacroix Couture dress made of fur, felt, and lace embroidery to the deYoung Museum.
Suppes donated a large portion of her couture fashion collection, culled over 30 years, to the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Included are many pieces by Christian Lacroix, McQueen, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Rodarte.
Inspired by the incredibly generous Suppes donation, the de Young Museum mounted “Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style” from January 20 to August 11, 2024. This exhibition featured the legacy of some of the Bay Area’s most fashionable women, past and present.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Alessandro Lucioni for gorunway.com
Looking ahead, the prospect of a collaboration between Christian and Dries Van Noten, similar to their successful partnership in 2019, is a source of excitement. Dries, now an advisor and chairman of the board at the fashion house he sold in 2018, continues contributing to the brand’s beauty line and store design.
What about a collaboration between Christian and master colorist Pierpaolo Piccioli? Picciolo, still without a job, would tone things down and add some modern minimalism to the otherwise heady mix.
“A recent École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne graduate, De Vilmorin launched his debut collection on Instagram—where else?—and quickly attracted the attention of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Christian Lacroix, two designers who know a thing or two about exuberance”. Nicole Phelps, “Could Charles de Vilmorin Be Gen Z’s First Fashion Star,” vogue.com, June 1, 2020
Eva Chen wears Christopher John Rogers to the 2021 Met Gala, Instagram
Meanwhile, until Christian Lacroix announces his full involvement, it’s exciting to speculate which designers might be a good fit. One name that comes to mind is Christopher John Rogers. His exuberant, colorful, joyful designs brim with optimism. The designer’s voluminous silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and unabashed use of color have already earned him the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award.
Richard Quinn Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com
Then there’s Richard Quinn. The British designer is known for his bold, theatrical, playful womenswear, vibrant colors, floral prints, and couture-inspired sensibility with an edge. Giambattista Valli is known for his opulent color and sculpted gowns.
Marni Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
Francesco Risso, renowned for his audacious and imaginative approach to fashion, has carved out a distinctive place in the industry as the creative director of Marni. Since taking the helm in 2016, Risso has transformed the Italian house into a powerhouse of eccentricity and modern luxury.
How about Marc Jacobs? A cultural icon, Jacobs celebrates individuality and authenticity and is known for his collaborations with other fashion companies and for his interpretations of popular culture trends. He would undoubtedly put his inimitable own spin on things.
Charles de Vilmorin surrounded by his colorful drawings, Photo courtesy of Charles de Vilmorin
Charles de Vilmorin is also a gifted and imaginative illustrator capable of transmitting vivid moods and characters. Like Lacroix, whose interest in costume started in 1985 during his early role as a designer at the house of Jean Patou, costume design, not fashion, is Vilmorin’s first love.
Charles de Vilmorin, British Vogue, December, 2020
Charles de Vilmorin made his debut on Instagram on June 1 at the age of 23. His buzzy genderless couture collection, backed by Jean Paul Gaultier, comprised colorful quilted jackets and coats with patchwork faces and flower hearts paired with hand-painted leggings. It recalled Christian Lacroix and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, both fans of the young designer.
Charles de Vilmorin was named creative director of Rochas from February 2021 to March 2023. He was 24 when he was appointed, succeeding Alessandro Dell’Acqua. De Vilmorin left Rochas after his contract was not renewed. It’s not uncommon for European houses to look to young talent to attract a new generation of customers. While relatively inexperienced, these designers often have high social media profiles. Of course, it doesn’t always work.
Charles came back last February with a small ready-to-wear collection for fall 2024. The 25-piece line, inspired by a George Sand poem, was presented at the Sphere showroom during Paris Fashion Week.
De Vilmorin is a promising talent. He needs focus, support, and the right backing.
Latest Comments:
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
Love my portrait Thank you Michel Haddi!!!!
Such a fun and bold take on fashion! Love how this collection brings a fresh, playful energy to the scene.
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.