Carolina Herrera x FRAME Denim Ball Skirt, $1198, Tailored Denim Jacket, $698, photo carolinaherrera.com
Geraldine Stutz, who transformed Henri Bendel from a carriage trade retailer in decline into a chic emporium of designer brands in the 1960s, once described her taste for what she called “dog whistle” fashion: “clothes with a pitch so high and special that only the thinnest and most sophisticated women would hear their call.”
These days, it’s more like “hit-you-over-the-head” fashion, geared for the never-ending red carpets, TikTok, and Instagram. Even Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry, known for his over-the-top, in-your-face clothes and accessories, is recoiling.
“I’m tired of seeing people dressing for the Internet. I’d like to see people dressing for themselves, dressing for a room. The fashion we love was not built for the Internet but for a more intimate moment. Weirdly, I’d like to see less desperation and a bit more reserve” – Daniel Roseberry
Each year, it seems the holiday season starts earlier and earlier. At this point, I’m already up to my eyeballs with glitter and glitz. Whether you’re going out or entertaining at home, what feels especially modern right now is the mix of formal and informal, dressed up and dressed down, focusing on cut, shape, and silhouette rather than over-the-top ornamentation, and the confluence of haute couture with sportswear and functional influences.
Coco Rocha in custom Gap by Zac Posen, photo red carpet-awards.com
What is more versatile, practical, humble, and enduring than good old American denim? I was reminded of how cool and adaptable denim can be when Coco Rocha showed up at the FGI Night of Stars in October wearing a Gap dress made of recycled deep indigo denim custom-designed by Zac Posen.
Carolina Herrera x FRAME denim maxi skirt, $1198, and cotton poplin shirt,$112, photo frame-denim.com
Other designers are on the same wavelength. Wes Gordon, creative director of Carolina Herrera, recently collaborated with FRAME denim on a concise “wearable, easy, happy” capsule collection presented as part of the 2025 resort collection shown in Mexico City on November 14th.
The hands-down hero piece is the ballgown-style maxi skirt. This fresh take on the signature Herrera ball skirt is made of yards of pure pre-dyed cotton denim, sewn into a voluminous skirt that fans to the floor; vertical seaming adds to the drama.
Offered in optic white and in pale blue denim, a color they call “Celeste”, the skirt is a versatile wardrobe addition which can look completely different depending on what it is paired with and how you accessorize.
Carolina Herrera Resort 2025 Collection, photo courtesy of Carolina Herrera
On the runway in Mexico City, it was with the tailored jacket in blue denim (refer to lead shot) and a full-sleeve black cotton embroidered button-down shirt created in collaboration with Maestra María de los Ángeles Licona San Juan.
On the FRAME website, the white maxi skirt is photographed with an oversized organic poplin white long-sleeved shirt, making it look like a one-piece dress.
Carolina Herrera x FRAME Denim Ball Skirt,$1198, Black Cotton Balloon Sleeved Shirt, $1490, photo courtesy carolinaherrera.com
On the Carolina Herrera website, they’ve paired it with a black cotton button-down shirt with exaggerated balloon sleeves and high cuffs, adding more drama. Bergdorf Goodman simplifies the skirt by adding a relatively plain short-sleeved black sweater.
Jean Paul Gaultier Denim Mermaid Maxi Dress, reduced from $1080- $648, by nordstrom.com
I love the shape and cut of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Denim Mermaid Dress featuring JPG’s signature bustier-inspired silhouette and lingerie topstitched details.
by. bonnie young Princess Seamed Bustier, $3500, shop shopbonnieyoung.com
Bonnie Young has designed a sensational group in linen, which is made to look like luxury denim. They carefully chose not to use real denim as linen has a much lower environmental impact.
by. bonnie young linen Bias Cut Maxi Slip Dress, $920, Kimono Wrap Top, $768, Wrap Pants, $1200, photo shopbonnieyoung.com
Versatile standouts (most pieces are considered unisex) include a wrap bustier inspired by a modern-day Kimono, wide-legged wrap pants, a bias-cut maxi slip dress with a belt, and a Princess Seam bustier with a detachable bow.
by. bonnie young Bustier with Handcrafted Stars, $3500, photo by shopbonnieyoung.com
For those who need a bit of shine, there’s a bustier with star appliques, which looks great with wide-legged trousers.
Diesel De-Held Stretch Denim Dress with Sequined Overlay, $945, shop.diesel.com
Speaking of shine, leave it to Diesel to create a dress in denim with a sequined overlay.
Denim Corset Dress, $79.99, photo ursime.com
Of course, there are always less pricey iterations. A Chinese-based company, Ursime, has a strapless dress that is a dead ringer for a Carolina Herrera design from spring 2017.
As I always say, “Seek and Ye Shall Find!”
Latest Comments:
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
Love my portrait Thank you Michel Haddi!!!!
Such a fun and bold take on fashion! Love how this collection brings a fresh, playful energy to the scene.
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
Wow, fantastic weblog format! How long have you ever been blogging for? you made running a blog glance easy. The…