Stella McCartney trompe l’oeil pearl print black silk shirt, $1190, stanleykorshak.com
Trompe l’oeil, which literally translates to “fool the eye,” is the art of creating the illusion of a third dimension. It is meant to describe something that appears to have detailing, such as a belt, a tie, a pocket, or a complete garment, but is actually just drawn on, knitted in, or printed on.
“Now a design mainstay, the trompe l’oeil technique fuels the fun in fashion, even as the words “quiet” and “luxury” continue to permeate reviews of recent designer lines. Duping reality, the effect does away with all the fuss of true materiality, but it takes a trained eye to spot the careful foolery.”- HYBEAST
Though it originated as a painting technique in Greece and Rome and has been used decoratively in home furnishings throughout the ages, it has also been applied to clothing and accessories.
Schiaparelli trompe l’oeil bow sweater, photo courtesy the Philadelphia Museum of Art
The sporty and graphic trompe l’oeil sweaters Elsa Schiaparelli created in the 1920s, including the Bowknot sweater, considered the most famous woman’s sweater of all time, launched Elsa’s career.
Roberto di Camerino trompe l’oeil dresses on display at the Gallery Fortuny in Venice
As someone who came of age in the 1960s and 1970s and is a vintage aficionado, I have long appreciated Roberta de Camerino’s iconic and signature trompe l’oeil handbags, which graced the arms of Princess Grace and Maria Callas and were adored by Dali, and her signature dresses made of stretch jersey.
Roberta di Camerino trompe l’oeil dress, $750 1stdibs.com
Many of the one-piece dresses, which are collector’s items, often include what looks like a separate shirt, tie, vest, belt, jacket, coat, and skirt. So witty and so convenient. Who has not left a cardigan in a restaurant or somewhere else? No chance of that when wearing a Roberta di Camerino, or a Thom Browne, for that matter.
Thom Browne trompe l’oeil tuxedo dress, $6500, farfetch.com
There is no contemporary designer associated with trompe l’oeil as Thom Browne. It’s a recurring theme and mainstay throughout his collections. Given that we are all so strapped for time, how modern is it to wear what appears to be several layers, but getting dressed takes one quick gesture?
Jean Paul Gaultier trompe l’oeil trench,$2650, netaporter.com
For decades, expressive trompe l’oeil prints have been a Moschino and Jean Paul Gaultier signature. This oversized trench in tan and black creates a convincing illusion of a wide collar and storm flaps. It is from the label’s Très Gaultier Collection. Priced at $2650, it is for sale at netaporter.com.
Stella McCartney trompe l’oeil pearl print silk shirt and trousers $1190 each, stanleykorshak.com
Stella McCartney recently dabbled in trompe l’oeil to great effect with a group in black silk featuring a trompe l’oeil print of a string of pearls in different sizes. Perfect for when you want to quickly get dressed, accessories and all. The best pieces are an oversized shirt and trousers, each priced at $1190 and for sale at stanleykorshak.com.
MME. Mink Bralette Dress, $425, mmemink.com
I can’t help but see vestiges of Roberta di Camerino in Jan Heidrich’s (aka MME. Mink) recently introduced MINKY Trompe L’oeil Collection, which playfully meets luxury with the eye.
“Inspired by my travels throughout Europe in the style of the Great Maps of the Sistine Chapel of Rome, I have always loved architectural influence in my designs and sketches. Hand-drawn elements transform our A-Line silhouette into something very special.” Jan Heidrich, MME. Mink
MME. MINK. Trench Garden Dress,$425, mmemink.com
There are 4 A-line maxi dresses, all in black and white, priced at $425. There’s a MME. “Beatrice” Garden dress with a large bow and 4 pockets, the MME. “ROBE” Garden Dress, the MME. “Trench” Garden dress and the MME. BRA-LETTE Trompe Dress.
MME. Beatrice Garden Dress Noir, $425, mmemink.com
The backs are almost as interesting as the front. They are all made of a nice weight poly blend, have no zippers, and slip over the head. They are also ideal for traveling because they are almost weightless and won’t wrinkle.
MME. Mink box, mmemink.com
MME. Mink’s love of trompe l’oeil is even reflected in her packaging. All orders shipped to customers are packed in the most fabulous trompe l’oeil cardboard boxes with handles. They are sturdy and good-looking enough to carry as a handbag.
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I look forward to every article. Thank you.
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I can absolutely picture you in this trompe l’oeil style, Marilyn. Great article!