“Anatomy” – Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
“Fashioning Wonder: A Cabinet of Curiosities” opens today through April 28th, and it is a chance to see the museum at FIT as you’ve never before seen it. Senior Curator Dr. Colleen Hill worked on this exhibition stemming from her thesis for six years, and you can tell a lot of thought and effort went into it.
Colleen Hill, Curator Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
I attended the opening party last night, which was like two separate worlds—I spent an hour at the downstairs exhibition and an hour upstairs at the party. Downstairs was hushed, dark, and serious, while upstairs was loud, raucous, and electric.
Artisanship on display, Photo by Laurel Marcus
I wasn’t sure how a “cabinet of curiosities” would translate to a museum exhibition—I was picturing a lot of little curio cabinets and not much fashion, but this took the theme to the next level. The famous engraving of Ole Worms’ 1655 cabinet (which really means rooms) was a jumping-off point in illustrating how these collection cabinets were a precursor to museums.
Freddie Leiba and Rebecca Moses Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
Dr. Hill pointed out that in the drawing, along with eclectic flora and fauna, there were even a few clothing items, as evidenced by a leopard-looking jacket hanging on the wall. An actual leopard Christian Dior jacket is featured adjacent to the drawing, as well as other vitrines representing catalogs of curiosities with the pairing of an illustration next to a fashion item representing nature, art, and anatomy motifs.
Tom Ford Zebra Dress, Photo by Laurel Marcus
The exhibition is revealed in themes, including Specimens, an Aviary (or bird cage), Anatomical Theatre, Artisanship, Kunst Kammer (German for Chamber of Art), Vanitas (17th-century artworks of groups of symbolic objects), Reflections and Refractions (featuring newly invented mirrors and other reflective materials as well as kaleidoscopic designs), and Illusions which features a lot of one of my favorites: trompe l’oeil.
Ralph Rucci and Nicole Fischelis, Photo by Laurel Marcus
Highlights include Ralph Rucci’s dramatic brown and taupe silk chiffon gown with the image of a woman’s face from Fall 2016, a Tom Ford zebra-print gown with horsehair from Fall 2013 mane, and a Comme des Garcons dress that I immediately recognized from the Rei Kawakubo Met Museum exhibit.
Claire McCardell Shell printed cotton romper 1955, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner.
The museum’s nearly 200 objects and accessories, mainly from its permanent collection, include many other unique pieces. Designers include Marykatran+Tzou, Christian Dior, Issey Miyake, Schiaparelli, Tiffany & Co., Tom Ford, and Vivienne Westwood.
Souleo and Beau McCall, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
There is an element of interactivity, including a section called “What is it?”—as in, guess what these items were used for, with the answers behind small, closed doors next to the item. The Senses features a touchable muslin replica of a Molyneux dress circa 1948 alongside the original.
Feathers in the Aviary, Adolfo feathered hat sitting on a feathered desk, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
There’s also a feature with recorded sounds that emanate from various objects on display, such as a violin umbrella that plays “Blue Danube” and a pair of shoes with bells on them. Pull-out trays with jewelry arranged thematically, such as sea shells, also add to the “please touch” aspect.
Feathers in the Aviary, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
The most dramatic section is the giant bird cage, which Marilyn and I could have hopped right into with our feathered ensembles. On display, along with various garments, is a feather-covered desk embellished by photographer Bill Cunningham, which he made for Frederick and Isabel Eberstadt. I couldn’t help thinking that perhaps former milliner Bill would not have taken kindly to the Adolfo headdress (also owned by Isabel Eberstadt) placed atop the piece.
Alva Chinn and Marilyn Kirschner Photo by Laurel Marcus
When I finally periscope up to the cocktail party, there was also lots to see. Guests included Nicole Miller, Rebecca Moses, Freddie Leiba, Ralph Rucci, Alva Chinn, Susan Scafidi, Nicole Fischelis, Kate Barton with her FGI-winning goldfish bag accessory, Marisol Deluna, Souleo and Beau McCall, Valerie of Idiosyncratic Fashionistas, and a myriad of other notables of all ages on the city fashion circuit.
Birds of a Feather Marilyn Kirschner & Laurel Marcus
Popular dress themes included butterflies, leopards, and feathers—lots of color, texture, and style abounded. Artist and designer Marisol Deluna even showed me how she is willing to suffer for fashion—the wire she had strung to hold the butterflies on the straps of her dress was starting to dig into her shoulders. What the heck—one more glass of champagne, and who feels any pain?
Two young, stylish women approached me, saying they recognized my feathered cape from the Linda Fargo/Ranjana Khan sample sale several years ago. “I kept waiting for you to put it down,” one said. But you never did.” I promised that if I ever got tired of the turkey feathers, I would pass them on to her. As Cindy Adams always says, “Only in New York, Kids.”
Latest Comments:
My fave is the Gorski. Best look and function to me!
A Marvelous Tribute to IRIS, a one-of-a-kind work of art!
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
LOVE all of this. Thank you, Marilyn. <3