Thom Browne Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Taylor Hill for Wire Image
NYFW ended on a high note. Michael Kors made a forceful case for the unapologetically chic, highlighting an effortless, timeless, unfussy luxury that speaks volumes about not looking like you’re trying too hard.
It’s also worth noting that the best-dressed showgoers (and boy, was it ever a clownish circus out there) had the Kors look in their fabulous coats, well-cut trousers, cozy knitwear, and glossy leathers.
Thom Browne’s 5 p.m. men’s and women’s show, more akin to haute couture than ready-to-wear, was marked by unbridled creativity. Also, let’s not forget the ‘show before the show’, a prelude that set the stage for the main event and offered a glimpse into the designer’s vision.
The lobby of The Griffin Theater at the Shed resembled a sea of gray. All the ‘Brownies’ were decked out in their instantly recognizable Thom Browne ensembles, ready to pay homage, like members of a chicly dressed cult, a term used affectionately to describe the designer’s fervent and dedicated fan base.
Moreover, it was hard not to look at the museum-worthy collection and think ahead to the Met Gala and who will wear what, given that Thom’s aesthetic is perfectly aligned with the theme of the evening: Tailored For You, and the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition, titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
But, before the week began, the CFDA chairman took to the CFDA’s Instagram to share an encouraging letter for the city’s fashion design community.
“We must remind the world why they should pay attention to these stories…however we decide to communicate them…but the most important thing is to communicate them in our own ways…and nobody else’s” – Thom Browne, CFDA Chairman.
Thom further emphasized the importance of designers marching to the beat of their own drum, valuing their ideas, and embracing originality.
Regardless of whether or not you believe designers rose to the occasion (some admittedly did so more than others), what cannot be denied is they did it their own way. Many opposing fashion philosophies were on view over the past 5 days, but many recurring themes emerged.
While designers may have contrasting fashion philosophies, they often appear on the same wavelength, as evidenced by several recurrent themes. The diversity of these philosophies is what makes the fashion industry so intriguing.
Of course, how these themes were translated varied widely; in some cases, they couldn’t be more opposite. One refrain; two different points of view.
The Belted Trouser and Sweater
Left, Marc Jacobs Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Hunter Abrams; Right, Theory, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Theory
Timeless classics get an update this season, but sometimes a classic is anything but, especially if Marc Jacobs has anything to say about it. Of course, leave it to Theory to deliver a clean, straightforward rendition.
Pinstripes
Left, Carolina Herrera Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Umberto Fratini for Gorunway.com; Right, Sergio Hudson Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Filippo Fior for Gorunway.com
Carolina Herrera is always defined by an uptown, ladylike elegance. Wes Gordon seemed to want to put a flower on everything this season, including pinstripes. On the other hand, Sergio Hudson stayed the course with his classic tailoring and strong-shouldered power suits.
Animalia
Left, Coach, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Coach; Right, Marc Jacobs, Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Marc Jacobs
At Coach, Stuart Vevers was inspired by how fabulous downtown kids dress, including his treatment of leopard, a perennial favorite. Marc Jacobs blew up the print and added volume to the coat, making it a hard-to-miss statement piece in his collection.
Equestrian
Left, Anna Sui, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.com; Right, TWP, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Filippo Fior for Gorunway.com
Anna Sui is known for her original, contemporary clothing inspired by vintage styles and cultural influences, including her take on classic riding tropes. On the other hand, Trish Wescoat Pound, TWP, is quickly making a name for herself with an elevated yet relaxed aesthetic, focusing on high-quality, versatile pieces with a subtle yet unmistakable downtown New York City vibe.
The Leather Biker
Left: Leather Biker Jacket Eckhaus Latta Right: Brandon Maxwell black leather biker jacket
The leather biker was all over the runways. Leave it to Eckhaus Latta, known for their experimental designs, gender-fluid clothing, and collaborations with artists, to deliver a colorful, artistic, slightly eccentric version you won’t see elsewhere. Brandon Maxwell is known for his sculptural details and sharp tailoring. While there were many variations in black leather, Brandon Maxwell’s luxurious iteration stands out.
Color Blocking
Left: Color blocking Christopher John Rogers Right: Tory Burch, photo by Hunter Abrams
Color, especially color blocking, is Christopher John Rogers’ calling card. His clothes are always exuberant, fanciful, and joyful. Tory Burch takes a more citified urban approach, using color to great advantage within her unapologetically sportswear-infused yet elegantly urbane collection.
The Plaid Skirt Suit
Left, LaQuan Smith, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Greg Swales Courtesy of LaQuan Smith; Right, Thom Browne, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Giovanni Gianni for WWD
LaQuan is known for his skin-baring designs. It seems everything Smith designs is infused with sex, including his take on a plaid skirt suit. With Thom, it’s more about creativity than skin. Thom’s designs are always a testament to creativity. Nobody else can make such inspired use of traditional menswear patterns.
The Argyle Sweater
Left, Khaite, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Khaite; right, Thom Browne, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
Leave it to Catherine Holstein to make Argyle look hip and urbane, not preppy. Leave it to Thom to make Argyle look couture-like and museum-worthy.
The Red Evening Dress
Left: Christian Siriano, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.co.m Right: Calvin Klein, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Calvin Klein
Christian Siriano always seems to design for the red carpet, making it a grand entrance. No subtlety there! In her debut for Calvin Klein, Veronica Leoni focused on minimalism and “clothes for real life.” Still, some standouts were the evening dresses featuring draping but were modest and subtle. Christian Siriano always seems to design for the red carpet, making it a grand entrance. No subtlety there!
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My fave is the Gorski. Best look and function to me!
A Marvelous Tribute to IRIS, a one-of-a-kind work of art!
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
LOVE all of this. Thank you, Marilyn. <3