Entrance to Bryant Park Shows – 1999 Photo by Freshnessmag.com
NYFW in September always coincides with 9/11, but it does not often happen just months before a significant general election, one as crucial as the upcoming Presidential election in November and one with a woman candidate. And it rarely coincides with a decisive debate like the one on Tuesday evening between Kamala Harris and Donald Trump.
Bryant Park Tents Spring 2002 shows – Photo by Bill Cunningham
The 2024 NYFW was a departure from the norm, marked by a sense of patriotism and a unified fashion community that had been dormant since the pandemic. Despite the challenges, the industry showed remarkable resilience, turning the event into a decentralized affair, with shows and presentations scattered across the city, a sight not seen in recent memory.
The Logistical Challenges…
The Logistical challenges of NYFW 2024 were evident, with the city experiencing unprecedented congestion. The convergence of street closures, construction, 9/11, and the UN General Assembly made navigating the city daunting, even for those with access to private transportation. The streets were filled with fashion enthusiasts, industry professionals, and curious onlookers, creating a unique but challenging atmosphere for the event.
This Wednesday, The Museum at FIT will unveil its new exhibition, Africa’s Fashion Diaspora. This innovative exhibition explores fashion’s role in shaping international Black diasporic cultures and is the first to examine fashion as a mode of cross-diasporic cultural production.
Last week, NYFW had a Diaspora of its own. Shows and presentations are scattered all over NYC, in Brooklyn and Manhattan, uptown, downtown, midtown, far west, and far east. And I mean, WAY far east, to be exact, the east end of Long Island, Bridgehampton, where Ralph Lauren staged his terrific spring show.
Ralph Lauren Show…
Someone aptly referred to it as “Ralphampton.” Ralph helicoptered guests, flew people in, provided cars and buses, and rebuilt the Polo Bar to serve them dinner. Like many other designers this season, Lauren didn’t just stage a fashion show, he created a unique and unforgettable experience for his audience.
There is no question that designers’ unique individual show venues impart that only in New York “Flava,” but the flip side of the coin is that getting from point A to point B becomes a logistical nightmare, even if you have a car and driver at your disposal like Fern Mallis.
“There are two types of regular New York Fashion Week attendees: Those who got to experience the Bryant Park era in all its glory and those who did not. Both can thank Fern Mallis, who held the post of executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America throughout the ’90s.” Jill Manoff, Editor in Chief, Glossy
Fern Mallis…
Mallis is widely considered to be “The Godmother of Fashion.” As executive director of the CFDA, Fern co-created 7th on Sixth in 1993 with CFDA president Stan Herman. It soon became known as New York Fashion Week. Named after the location of its original Manhattan headquarters, Bryant Park, 7th on Sixth lives on in the minds of many as fashion week’s best of times.
Shows Kicked Out Of Bryant Park…
After a dispute escalated in 2006, the Bryant Park Corporation announced it would no longer allow the shows because they were interfering with plans to operate an ice skating rink in the winter and public use of the main lawn in the late summer. Mayor Bloomberg, on behalf of designers and Anna Wintour, delayed the move, but they ultimately lost the battle. In September 2010, after 16 years there, NYFW moved to Lincoln Center.
It’s Been A Bumpy Ride Since Then…
The Starrett-Lehigh Building on 26th Street between 11th and 12th Avenue was utilized last season, but it only had one venue, no lounges, and no hospitality. It might have worked if they had two or three venues and staged a few back-to-back shows.
Spring Studios, located near Canal Street, was never ideal for shows. Although they had many shows, the numbers kept dwindling. According to Fern, the venue ended because the lease was up or the cost became prohibitive.
For several seasons, the shows were centralized at the Moynihan Post Office on West 33rd Street. At least it was a more convenient location, easy to get in and out of (I deplore using elevators), and closer to transportation and the garment district.
For all the talk of NYFW becoming “less prominent” as fewer designers and fashion school graduates remain in the city, according to a new report by the Partnership for New York City, the vibes were still good, and the energy was high going into the week.
The Big Apple…
The Big Apple has its undeniable kind of magic, and that proved to be a big draw for Belgian-born Pieter Mulier, Azzedine Alaia’s Creative Director, and Dutch designer Ronald Van Der Kemp, who both eschewed Paris and instead staged their (first) runway shows in New York last week. For many, Alaia was one of the highlights of the week.
I spoke with Fern on Friday, who agrees that it was an intense week with many good shows held in creative venues, with a spotlight on new and young talent. At the same time, it was a logistical nightmare. Can you imagine if the weather was not as ideal as it was? On top of everything else, many shows were held outside with no alternative plan.
Fern says that many people complained to her, off the record, during the week. They said they missed Bryant Park, begged her to come back and organize the shows, and asked if she could do anything. Of course, there is also a huge contingent of young people born after Fashion Week shut down. They need to learn what it is like to have an organized venue.
Fashion Calendar…
One problem Fern cites is that the CFDA Fashion Calendar should be more comprehensive. It would help to have press contacts listed so you know who to contact if you want to attend a show, and they should offer locations. You must decide which shows you can realistically get to when venues are back-to-back from The Battery to Harlem.
If designers want to stage shows in venues that “speak to them,” the scheduling needs to be more cooperative and realistic and truly allow for transportation because that becomes the real nightmare. Fern asked if I took the bus provided by the CFDA. When I said I never knew about it, she said that was another problem. The CFDA sent invitations to only a select group.
The late Ruth Finley, who published the Fashion Calendar for over sixty years, is sorely missed. The Calendar under Ruth and editor Deborah Brumfield was far more than a list of dates and times; it was a clearinghouse for disputes and date conflicts. In some seasons, the Calendar listed over 350 runway shows, press events, and store and showroom openings over two weeks.
Back To Bryant Park…?
When I questioned Fern about possibly recreating Bryant Park, she said, “I doubt it, but nothing is impossible.” It’s not just about the space; it’s about sponsorship and money. You need an enlightened corporate sponsor who can sit down with industry heavyweights. Fern believes they are out there and cites international e-commerce websites and technology companies. They have a lot of money, and they could make something happen.
When a reporter commented to Fern that the situation seemed hopeless and asked if she thought there was a solution, Fern replied, “There’s a solution to every problem.” It’s just a matter of getting the right people at the table, talking to each other honestly, trying to listen and hear all sides, and making some decisions that are best for the industry.
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