I know there are many in the fashion community who have at times, equated fashion with having a religious experience. So it was really not that surprising that Alexander Wang would take it one step further and show his Fall/Winter 2016 collection at St. Bartholomew’s Church, a beautiful, historic, Episcopal parish landmark located on Park Avenue between 50th and 51st streets.

Giovanna Battaglia & Linda Fargo

In attendance were such as Taraji P. Henson, Solange Knowles, Zoe Kravitz, Kylie Jenner, and of course, every major fashion editor, including Anna Wintour (the “High Priestess of Fashion” herself). In my opinion, W’s Giovanna Battaglia stole the show in her grounded black leather over the knee boots and jazzy red and black fur and leather parka. Unlike others who seem dressed for summer; bare legs, sandals and all (what is THAT about?), or who just looked warm (and un chic), she managed to look warm, comfortable, and fierce which is not an easy feat! (Meanwhile, the only collection thus far, which has seemingly been geared for the current record breaking frigid temperatures, is Moncler Grenoble, with their fantastic apres ski wear for men and women, which was shown outside at Lincoln Center last evening).

But anyone who even remotely conjectured that AW’s choice of venue (known for its Byzantine Revival architecture and pipe organ), was any indication that his collection for men and women would be strict, proper, nun like, sacrosanct, monastical, or clerical, would have been jolted back to reality as soon as the show began. The music abruptly turned from solemn to loud and jarring and when the first models came out they were wearing thigh high skirt suits and slip dresses in black and white checks, tweeds, and stripes; hot pants made of black leather and tattered denim; ripped jeans; fur collared and fur lined mini coats and oversized bombers; sheer black stockings printed with the word “Girls” on top; fuzzy knitwear emblazoned with the words “Strict” and “Tender”; black leather and lace minis; booties and bags embellished with silver grommets, studs, spikes; metal chain necklaces; and dog collar chokers (none of which are exactly new for this designer).

It was streetwise, hard edged, and far removed from his all ivory, poetic, delicate swan song for Balenciaga, Spring 2016 which was shown in Paris last October. Alexander seems to have taken over the mantle from Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane who has moved on from punk and grunge to grown up and glamourous with his recent Fall/Winter 2016 Collection. I could easily imagine the original ‘bad girls’ Miley Cyrus, or Rihanna, wearing the collection (when she’s not clad in pieces from her new Puma collaboration). The designer took his bow in signature, head-to-toe black. His sweatshirt said it all: “Holy Smoke”. Actually, it did look cute, hip and young “God help us”.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post The Sacred and the Profane appeared first on lookonline.

Alexander’s ‘Ball-Chain’ of Command

Ball-Chains were a recurring theme at Alexander Wang

So, you how simply adding gleaming hardware to all black, can go a long way to enliven it and make it exciting? Well, Alexander Wang took that idea and ran with it for his Fall 2015 collection; a strong, powerful statement played out almost entirely in black. He was basically acknowledging, “We all live in black anyway. It’s our favorite color (it’s certainly my favorite color), so why fight it? I’ll make it even cooler, hipper, and more appealing!” And he did.

He mixed luxurious fabrics such as velvet, satin, leather, fur, wool, and a shimmery metallic, and punctuated literally every surface with something in shiny silver. There were silver buttons (three rows on some jackets), silver zippers, silver buckles, silver chains, silver fringe, and last but not least, silver ball-chains which were a recurring theme (for a designer not exactly known for his love of jewelry, they actually served as a hip, modern substitute).

They decorated his fisherman knit sweaters (an apparent ongoing obsession of his); formed a geometric pattern on a group of quilted coats; and were further repeated on his bags (everything from mini duffles to backpacks), and his boots. The heavy black velvet lace up flatform hiking boots were the only footwear shown on the runway, and they grounded everything (superbly tailored jackets and cropped trousers, slouchy bathrobe coats, oversized metallic outerwear trimmed with fox, black velvet evening dresses with silver fringe trim).

The boots also lended that signature Wang streetwise, athletic vibe, which has traditionally infused his collections. Ah, but unlike last fall, when his gals looked ready to wade in the Hudson or East Rivers, this time around, they were more appropriately turned out for taking an evening stroll in the vicinity of the Seine. The collection, as urban-perfect for New York, as Paris, is proof that Alexander’s time spent in the City of Lights (as head of design for Balenciaga), is certainly paying off for him, from a creative point of view.

FYI, I could not help but notice that Baby North is becoming a real front row fixture at the biggest shows. She was front row at Alexander Wang, along with mom and dad, wearing what looked like a mini-me version of what was on the runway, down to the ball-bearing accented dress and leggings. If I were Anna Wintour, I would watch my back lol. I bet Kanye is grooming his little fashionista baby girl to eventually take over at Vogue and Conde Nast (if not the world).

-Marilyn Kirschner

NY Fashion Kool Aid  

Fatema Fardan Presentation: Mid-East to East Coast

Photos :Laurel Marcus

Getting anywhere on a Friday night in New York is always a challenge traffic-wise but never more so than during Fashion Week. After almost an hour in a lurching taxi I finally reached my destination of Voce Di Gallery,45 Grand Street while promising myself that the evening would deliver some unmistakable and rewarding international as well as home grown flavor. The Autumn/Winter 2015 Presentation was the New York debut for Fatema Fardan, born in the UAE in 1987 and educated in London. She is the first Emmirati designer to show at NYFW according to her Instagram @fatemafardanofficial. Fardan’s premier collection for Spring/Summer 2015 was well received in the Middle East and Fardan became known for having dressed Eva Longoria on her visit to the Dubai International Film Festival. Fardan’s New York connection was courtesy of Julia Restoin Roitfeld, the evening’s host and I knew she would be instrumental in bringing out the downtown fashionistas and notables.

Rachel Zoe, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Fatema Fardan, Leigh Lezark

On this freezing winter night the sight of a large storefront space magically  transformed with foliage and beautiful flowers covering the walls was quite welcoming and served as the perfect backdrop for the rich “Refined Folk” collection. The clothing was eminently wearable with “refined folk references” and “contemporary tailoring,”a mix of separates and dresses much of which could be dressy day wear or evening wear. Ms. Roitfeld wore one of the dresses in the collection, a short sleeved, fitted bodice black leather number with a flared skirt and she looked stunning as usual. I also loved a green ponyskin round collar jacket, a red lamb jacket worn with red flared leg pants and tapestry printed v-neck shell as well as a Piet Mondrian inspired leather skirt. Perhaps as a nod to her heritage Ms. Fardan kept everything mostly covered and I appreciated that a woman of any age could wear these fashions; nothing was overtly young, tight, cropped or inappropriate. One or two of the looks could possibly go to the dowdy side but overall it was a strong collection particularly for a relative neophyte.

As the evening wore on Ms. Roitfeld was soon joined by Rachel Zoe and husband Rodger Berman, Carole Radziwill (of Real Housewives fame), Stassi Schroeder (Vanderpump Rules), Natalie Joos (style icon), 13-year-old actress of “Into the Woods” Lilla Crawford, Leigh Lezark who also served as DJ, and Cory Kennedy (one of the nanocelebs and Internet “It Girl”). Writer, tastemaker and International Ambassador for Bergdorf Goodman Haya Maraka looked striking in black trousers and red fur vest, her black hair and red lipstick reminding me of none other than Amal Clooney. Perhaps Ms. Clooney’s looks, while exotic here, are the norm for women from the Mid East. Ms. Maraka was involved in styling the show and many of the models resembled her in taller form.

Center: Designer Fatema Farden; Left: Haya Maraka & Right: Julia Restoin Roitfeld

At first I thought Ms. Maraka was the designer as Ms. Fardan was not readily apparent until later when she appeared to do some video interviews. She was dressed quite modestly as befitting her culture in a to-the-floor dirndl with floral embroidery at the hem. I am curious as to whether Ms. Maraka was the link that brought her here or if this was a public relations machination of sorts. Whatever unseen forces landed her on our shores she can thank her lucky stars for connecting her with Ms. Roitfeld and the coterie of fashion’s front row insiders who attended the event.

The Daily Bet

#MYLACOSTEPOLO

Rene Lacoste invented the iconic polo in 1933, made of petit pique fabric. In celebration of this classic fashion staple, Lacoste has launched the #MyLacostePolo Global Campaign. Contribute your photos wearing a Lacoste polo and using their hashtag and you may be selected to be featured on the Lacoste website or social platforms.

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– Rhonda Erb
For more Better Bets visit: http://betterbetsny.tumblr.com/

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Alexander Wang Collection Photo: firstView.com

One of the more interesting aspects of fashion week is seeing how show attendees are dressing. Even though the temperature has been in the 30’s and 40’s, I’ve seen bare legs, bare feet (sandals), sleeveless tops, mini skirts, wispy chiffons, and an absence of full blown furs or anything resembling Nanook of the North for that matter (though fur collars, fur scarves, fur vests or abbreviated fur jackets have been commonplace).

There seems to be an almost complete ignoring of the seasons and instead, women are layering as needed. Those who look the best in my opinion, are foregoing furs altogether and favoring beautifully crafted cloth coats or something in sculptural leather, FYI, it is not surprising that leather, especially black leather, seems to be THE fabric of the season. It showed up all over the pre fall 2012 collections, and is already reigning supreme on the runways here in New York, exemplified by Alexander Wang yesterday. Let’s face it, who amongst us does not want to look chic, strong, and confident? Forget the soft pastels and wispy chiffons from spring. This is definitely the year of the strong woman.

Lacoste Collection Photo: firstView.com

In addition, leather is luxe and it is completely seasonless and you don’t need me to remind you that Global Warming is here to stay: we had the warmest January on record and no snow to speak of. In fact, we couldn’t even get a decent snowfall going yesterday (it lasted but a few hours and the sun came out by noon). Though interestingly, as in a case of life imitating art, it was perfectly timed with the first show of the morning, Lacoste, held at the Theatre at Lincoln Center. The stage was set up with 4 clear massive rectangular enclosures and, inside each one, there was a simulating snowfall complete with sounds made to evoke a feeling of being atop a snowy mountain at a ski resort. The run-of-show explained that Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s second collection for the legendary house, was inspired by ski wear worn by the 1966 French national men’s ski team. But wisely, instead of a literal translation, the designer used the rich archives as a jumping off point for a well edited, collection for men and women that oft times looked freshly androgynous. It was appealingly urbane and chic; filled with pieces that could work in a variety of settings and not just on the slopes.

The color palette focused on shades of blue (some so dark they resembled black), gray, and winter white; there were eye catching geometric color block merino wool sweaters, tunics, body conscious dresses, and second skin ski suits; egg shaped parkas; and sleek leather coats and jackets (which according to the program notes “promise a mild winter”). Sporty details like zippers, hoods, and hi sculptural collars added just the right touch without looking obvious or too predictable. A trompe l’eoil tweed print on silk or wool voile was well done, and a leather platform boot, based on traditional alpine ski boots, in addition to great looking sunglasses, were the perfect accessories.

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Toshiba Portégé Z835-P330

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Alexander the Great

Alexander Wang Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

Alexander Wang’s fall collection shown at Pier 94 over on the West Side Highway, collection had it all: it was supremely modern, relevant, wearable, focused, and inventive without being over the top and silly. How brilliant and what a seemingly simple premise really: taking iconic and classic wardrobe staples (tuxedo jackets, tuxedo pants, tuxedo shirts, zip front chunky ribbed pullovers, utilitarian parkas, ponchos, anoraks, sweatpants), and giving them new life by using luxurious fabrications, magnifying the details, and doing it in almost entirely in black and white (except for a few pieces in gray or nude).

Extremely urban, it struck a perfect balance. There was the use of volume but it was never unwieldy thanks to perfect proportions, the employment of narrow legged pants, and the show of leg. It was youthful yet ageless, masculine yet feminine, not quite minimal yet not quite ‘to the max’, sporty yet dressed up, covered up and cozy looking yet alluring and sexy, daytime yet nighttime, and whimsical and witty without looking like a bad joke. It reminded me of collections one would normally see in Paris , on the runways of Japanese innovators like Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, and Rei Kawakubo, but make no mistake about it. This was Alexander’s own.

In a season where the fur has been flying (both on and off the runways), it was refreshing to see fur used in such a youthful, sporty, and refreshing way (flesh toned mink was transformed into an oversized blazer) or in small doses (as earmuffs or peeking out on the feet from beneath narrow elongated trousers), and at a time when there has been so much over the top surface decoration and drunken use of embellishments, it was refreshing to see nothing glittery or sparkly at all. What a breath of fresh air. Bravo!

Beggars Can be Chosers

Prabal Gurung Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

Prabal Gurung said he was inspired by John Singer Sargent’s painting, ‘A Parisian Beggar Girl’ for the fall collection he showed yesterday afternoon at Lincoln Center, and there was certainly a lot going on in this dressed up yet ‘raw’, and quite ‘out there’ collection, which was a study in inventive fabric and texture mixes, surface interest and decoration (hand embroidery, Swarovski elements, metal sequins, melted paillettes, pyramid studs), the unabashed use of furs (there was so much fur, from astrakhan and Mongolian lamb to fox, I was surprised PETA was not in front of the venue), the play of soft and hard, and practically had no daytime or ‘sportswear’ elements at all. The closest he came was a granite double face techno wool raw edged trench shown over a black silk chiffon chemise, and when he showed a black techno wool cutaway jacket, it was paired with black techno wool pants with metallic tweed inserts and a white cotton and washed silk shirt with guipure lace overlay. Let’s put it this way, this would not be a runway to check out if work clothes were what you were after.

He began with a crimson hand draped washed silk faille bustier dress that hit right below the knee, and then followed with a black hand embroidered silk faille coat with ostrich feathers and Swarovski elements, and what followed was an unabashed endorsement of longer lengths dramatic floor length dresses in crinkle silk chiffon were shown beneath everything from a black caped back motorcycle jacket to a number of brilliantly hued hand dyed ombre feathered fox jackets and coats which replaced the graphic color blocks from last season.

Give me ‘Libertine’, or Give me Death

Libertine Fall 2011 Collection (Photos: Style.com)

After being noticeably absent from the runways of New York Fashion Week for quite some time, the hip, cool, West Coast based label, Libertine, designed by Johnson Hartig, made its comeback this season. And what a great way to start an early Saturday morning on a frigid day in February, I might add. (Actually, yesterday was February 12, which is Lincoln’s birthday, so I suppose it’s fitting that the fashion flock is ‘celebrating’ by doing what else? indulging their materialistic side and viewing back to back collections at ‘Lincoln’ Center).

Having said that, the Libertine show, a collection for both men and women, was not held at Lincoln Center but at Exit Art and its small intimate venue was a perfect way to see the clothes up close and personal. And what a joy. Basically, it was a major endorsement for the unabandoned and unexpected use of color and pattern, with clashing hues and graphic patterns showing up in one outfit, unselfconsciously mixed together, literally from head-to-toe (the tights carried out the theme and even the high heeled suede oxfords were color blocked).

What made it work, was its reliance on otherwise, dare I say, vintage inspired, ladylike silhouettes (for example, 50’s inspired ¾ sleeved swing coats, chic short sleeved shift dresses, boxy cardigan suits with narrow below the knee length skirts, patterned silk blouses with self ties). And what about those cozy, warm, and desirable coats? I must say that after so much fur all over the runways and on the streets, this past year, I am ready for the return of the cloth coat (though I’m not talking about the “modest Republican cloth coat” Richard Nixon made mention of when referring to wife Pat’s plain Jane cloth coat, but rather the sort of distinctive, gutsy, textural, insanely colorful or graphic versions shown at Libertine. By the way, for the guys, the suits and coat ensembles shown on the runway were on the whole, far more subdued, and more urbane, relying on the chic color combination of black, white, and gray.

And speaking of clashing colors and patterns, I spotted Shail Upadaya in between shows, milling around the reception area at Lincoln Center , clad in his usual bold, offbeat, eye popping pattern mixes from head to toe, and I had to laugh. In the past seasons, he has always been considered as a ‘joke’ by fashion insiders (Robin Givhan once asked, “Who is this guy and why is he here?”), though he has always been a favorite of the photographers thanks to his graphic, unique, and utterly photogenic presence. But after Miuccia Prada’s use of monkeys, bold graphic stripes, and brash color mixes, and Raf Simons’ embrace of clashing neon colors for Jil Sander for spring 2011, Shail almost looks tame by comparison, and quite ‘on trend’ at the moment. That’s fashion for you. Go figure!

-Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Kaldi Arctic Hat from 66° North

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Lace, especially guipure lace overlays, was used often in unexpected ways, and there was even a sheath and a pair of white flared hem pants printed with a painted lace print); and as elsewhere, the employment of nude illusion (a blush tulle hand embroidered chemise was covered with black Swarovski elements, melted paillettes and silk ribbon zippered als cut organza petals and a black tulle hand embroidered blouse, shown with black tuxedo pants, had strategically placed black silk organza flowers.

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