Calvin Klein: Easy Does It

Being cozy, comfortable, sporty, and casual, is the new black. And so is gray (shades of gray to be exact). This message rang loud and clear at Wednesday’s men’s and women’s Calvin Klein white label apparel, jeans, performance, and accessories presentation for fall 2014, where everything was shown with flats (trainers, sneakers, slip ons, sandals), to further accentuate the mood. It was all about hip, young, urbane, utilitarian, and multi purpose (the height of modern).

Held on the main floor of 205 West 39th street, it was once again, an informal installation on models. There was an additional selection of items hanging on racks, and accessories were displayed on tables, allowing editors to get up close and personal with merchandise that included bags (sculptural and linear hair calf clutches, Saffiano leather satchels, totes, backpacks, portfolios); shoes (slip on flats, double strap sandals, zip sneakers, track sneakers and trainers, and one fierce leather over the knee boot on a high heel); watches (transparent bands with stainless steel for women; silicone straps with aluminum cases for men); translucent eyewear; a smattering of smart and chic rose gold jewelry that highlighted polished metal chains.

It’s apparent Kevin Carrigan, Global Creative Director, ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, and Calvin Klein, is feeling strongly for slouchy, over sized ribbed and cabled sweaters; rich textures and tactile fabrics; chicly comfortable outerwear in multi layered mohair, alpaca, and felted cool;  pajama inspired ‘loungey’ pieces in blush (to be worn inside and out); and of course, denim, which has long been a house specialty. This season, it’s all about the new boot leg slouchy and extra-long jean, and the straight boy fit or rolled girlfriend, for the gals; the slim cut engineered concealed jean with minimal top stitching for the guys, in black or deep indigo washes, rinsed or finished with varnish or glaze.

What was lovely, in addition to the chic late morning refreshments and beverages served by elegant young men, were the cherry blossoms, which served as a backdrop to the fashion, and a reminder that even though it is still frigid, it IS spring after all. Speaking of which, though fall winter merchandise was being shown, it had an unapologetically season less feeling thanks to the emphasis on the yin and yang that always exists in fashion: the play of structured and soft, dark and pale, masculine and feminine, covered up and bare; over sized and narrow, etc. To better show off the new Calvin Klein Perfectly Fit Underwear for fall 2014 (made of a soft warp knit high tech fabric that offers superior stretch and a luxurious feel), push up bras, triangles, bare under wires, and bikinis, were on display, often juxtaposed against the decidedly heftier tweeds, flannels, felts, and of course, the androgynous denim.

FYI, upon leaving, in addition to a pair of Calvin Klein sunglasses in a nifty case, each editor received an iconic wire free bra and matching bikini. Now, if only it can finally get warmer and brighter.

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Out of the Blue

Calvin Klein White Label Spring 2014 Presentation (All Photos Marilyn Kirschner) Click on images for full size views

Calvin Klein’s White Label held their Spring 2014 presentation yesterday morning. The setting, once again, was the sprawling loft like main floor at 205 West 39th Street. As is always the case, the clothes were shown installation style on models (men and women) with waiters offering refreshments and beverages.  It was quick, to the point, efficient, and highly civilized (I wish more designers would stage shows like this quite frankly).

Black viscose stretch drop needle stitched dress

In addition to the models wearing selected pieces, the entire collection and accessories (handbags, footwear, sunglasses, etc.) were displayed on racks and tables set up along one entire side of the wall so that editors could get up close and personal — actually touch and feel the fabrics and materials. Among the highlights were the mid-heeled single sole suede or metallic bandage sandals for the gals and a mid grey leather summer dress shoe for the guys; handsome saffiano leather bags in a variety of shapes and sizes; silver and black spiral rings and bangles; transparent plastic sunglasses for him and her.

Laser cut perforated pieces in black & off white

Because the overall theme for the season is athletic, graphic, modern, sexy, and ‘raw’, the use of metal fences as backdrops, and as a way to separate the fashion into a series of themes or stories, was especially effective. It also worked well with the urban and signature color palette (black, off white & gray) this time enlivened with touches of shades of blues, from pale to vivid. In addition to the surprise of high octane color (especially when used for the guys, as in the stretch cotton sky blue suit worn with layered t shirts), the news this season is the embrace of an all knit way of dressing — exemplified by the engineered pleated knit skirt worn with a mesh link sweater in white, with black underpinnings, and the black viscose stretch mesh drop needle stitched dress which fits like a second skin.

Denim

I know you don’t think performance wear, perforations, track suits, tanks, and sweatshirts belong only in the locker room (sporty and athletic are the height of fashion these days). But, if you do, you might change your mind when you see the fresh, chic, and wearable interpretations here (laser perforated t shirts, dresses, and skirts in black and off white were standouts), as was the perfectly streamlined swimwear.

Matte white Lycra one shoulder swimsuit

You can’t improve upon the simplicity of the matte white lycra one shoulder suit. And of course, what would a Calvin Klein presentation be without a great looking group of All American jeans and denim jackets in a variety of washes and silhouettes, or underwear, for that matter? They were all on display as well.

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