The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly!

Shala Monroque in Prada & Delfina Delettrez brooch (Photos: Style.com,  firstView.com & Randy Brooke)

During the course of the press conference on Monday, Thomas P. Campbell, the Director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art promised the Costume Institute Ball would be the “most spectacular” in the museum’s history. It certainly lived up to the hype and was more high profile than ever, subjected to more press and media coverage than in past years, and boasted a first ever live video streaming made possible by Jeff Bezos and Amazon.com. While I think enough has been said about it, I still want to add my two cents.

To say the Red Carpet on this night is not your average, run-of-the-mill Red Carpet, is an understatement. This is not only “fashion’s biggest night” (as everyone likes to say), but the entire event represents fashion at its highest pinnacle. It is attended by some of the biggest stars on the planet, not to mention those from fashion’s constellations. As for the latter, this is a group that is well-informed and knowledgeable, and one expects more than just another parade of predictable, clone like, garden-variety, borrowed gowns — formfitting or fishtail  — varying only in their necklines and color. In other words, the kind one normally sees at the Academy Awards, the Golden Globes. etc. Boring!

Farida Khelfa in vintage Schiaparelli

Given the subjects being honored are two strong, influential, innovative, rule breaking women (Schiaparelli and Prada), and their unique perspectives on fashion, I was hoping to see more of that glorious subversion reflected in the choices made by many invited guests. Specifically, those who really did their fashion homework and had enough creativity and moxie to put this to good use. (Let’s just say that my ‘best dressed’ list varies from most others and does not include the same names you are likely to see elsewhere). I was not looking for stars but for fashion individuals who did not look like anyone else. And especially, for those channeling the late Schiaparelli, who up until now has been under the radar for most people outside of fashion. However, this is  about to change thanks to the exhibition and to Diego Della Valle, who is reviving the label. By the way, he arrived with Farida Khelfa who looked fabulous in a vintage Schiaparelli red chiffon gown, worn beneath a black leather biker jacket.

Lizzie Tisch in Mary Katrantzou

Among those opting for something in trompe l’oeil (a Schiap signature): Lizzie Tisch in Mary Katrantzou,, Diane von Furstenberg in her own creation, and Lauren Santo Domingo in a white Oscar de la Renta gown, covered with black trompe l’oel bows.

Karlie Koss in Jason Wu with Jason Wu

A few opted to pay homage to the late designer by wearing something in shocking pink (her signature hue). Hamish Bowles chose a shocking pink Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo; Dee Oclepo wore a shocking pink gown (designed by hubby Tommy Hilfiger); Karlie Kloss looked gorgeous in a shocking pink and black lace gown by Jason Wu; and one duo, designer Chris Benz and Julie Maclowe, dyed their hair shocking pink. Since Schiaparelli was known for her elaborate embroidery,

Biana Brandolini d’Adda in Dolce & Gabbana

I was happy to see Bandolini d’Adda’s amazing Dolce & Gabbana gold embroidered floor length cape and matching dress. And, just in terms of over-the -top visual eye candy, it was hard not to notice the glorious Giovanna Battaglia in a Dolce & Gabbana colorful floral gown with a shocking pink satin headpiece. It reminded me of something Anna Della Russo would wear. By the way, where was Anna Della Russo when we needed her?

Linda Fargo in custom Naeem Khan

But hands down, my favorite was Linda Fargo (who said she “always loves a good theme”). She wore a custom-made black velvet Naeem Khan cape elaborately embroidered with gold, thrown over a shocking pink gown and accessorized perfectly with black evening gloves that had gold embroidered finger nails (her favorite Schiaparelli touch, as she put it). Her other accessories included birdcage earrings and an oversized diamante 40’s costume jewelry pin watch, which she attached to a little satin evening bag.  In addition, her cape perfectly mimicked the black velvet embroidered Schiaparelli cape which is in the exhibition.

Carey Mulligan in Miuccia Prada

Among those in Miuccia Prada camp who looked fabulous were co-host Carey Mulligan in an ultra modern and youthful knee-length dress entirely covered in oversized gold and silver pailletes; Angela Lindvall, in a sleeveless, ankle length geometric coat dress with prim white collar; Mia Wasikowska, in a ruby short sleeved long gown with fitted waist (the prim collar and waistband entirely covered in black beads);

Chloe Sevigny in Miu Miu

Chloe Sevigny in a very short and very mod Miu Miu mini dress that was covered with mirrors and was almost all see-through. (she wore it over what looked like a black bikini and, I must say that not too many could get away with it, but she did!); Shala Monroque in a divine knee-length draped jersey Prada dress accessorized with a one-of-a-kind crustacean brooch by Deflina Delettrez (or was it a big insect of some sort —  I guess you could say it was a mix of Prada with a touch of Schiaparelli?).While I usually think Gwyneth Paltrow can do no wrong, I did not especially love her short Prada dress (too short perhaps?). As for Anna Wintour, while I liked the white custom made Prada gown with an embroidered lobster (an homage to Schiaparelli and Dali), I hated the matronly white fox stole she wore at the start of the Red Carpet. Enough of the fur already Anna. I know it was cool on Monday but it’s almost summer. You don’t have to give PETA more reason to hate you.

Mia Wasikowska in Prada

For the record, I disliked Sarah Jessica Parker’s Valentino Haute Couture gown (too prim, too pastel, too prissy, and it had nothing to do with the mood of the evening). And her long unruly hair did not help. I also did not like Melania Trump’s short white Marc Bouwer with its scarily exaggerated shoulders (it was too short, too tight, and it resembled something out of a bad Sci-Fi movie). I thought Kristen Stewart’s short, strange Balenciaga dress was better suited for an afternoon (It was far too casual, and I don’t care that it was designed by Nicolas Guesquiere). As for Beyonce’s sheer, suggestive Givenchy haute couture, it was just TOO TOO TOO (and her body stocking was not the color of her body). She is so beautiful, she truly does not need to wear something so completely over-the-top and almost too costumey in a Las Vegas sort of way. Just a note, just because you CAN, doesn’t mean you SHOULD.

Rachel Feinstein-Currin with Marc Jacobs

Finally, I have to say that I really thought this was one night where nothing could be too over-the-top, too tasteless, too anything, and one could not go too far (I’d prefer flashes of bad taste to those dull boring gowns any day). However, after seeing Marc Jacobs in his black lace coat (or was it a dress?), white Brooks Brothers boxers, black socks, and black pilgrim pumps, I think I changed my mind. Though, on second thought, it did make me smile!

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post Notes on the Costume Institute Exhibition appeared first on lookonline.

On The Red Carpet…

Anna Wintour All photos: Copyright 2012 Randy Brooke (Click on image for larger version)

Miuccia Prada does not like to be photographed – or so it would seem. The trailblazing designer discreetly and stealthily sped across the red carpet up the stairs and into the museum entrance, not pausing once for a photo-op. On Monday May 7, 2012, the Costume Institute Benefit at The Metropolitan Museum of Art celebrated the opening of Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations – a retrospective exhibition that explores the likenesses between Italian designers and Miuccia Prada and the late Elsa Schiaparelli, both pioneers of “ugly chic.”

Miuccia Prada

Prada, the honoree of the evening arrived just seconds after Anna Wintour — who smiled and took her time walking the red carpet and posing for pictures. Vogue’s leader looked glam and polished in a streamline, long white Prada dress and a fur capelet. Prada updated Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1937 Dali painted lobster dress by incorporating a lobster motif that was embellished with chunky amber jewels and gold detailing – which proved to be a trend on the red carpet. In fact, gold beading, sequins and embroidery shimmered on several of the gala’s gorgeous guests including: Cameron Diaz; Camille Belle and socialite, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda.

A misty rain fell on Fifth Avenue which was jam-packed with people caged in by police barricades desperately trying to catch a glimpse of celebrities and fashion “A-listers.” Their screams indicated big arrivals like; Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, Tom Brady and Giselle or Tim Tebow. But the crowd remained quiet when someone a little more obscure and fashion-oriented stepped onto the carpet.

Cary Mulligan

I, for one, was thrilled by Suzy Menkes’ fun fascinator and I was excited to see Hamish Bowles in a bright magenta, square patterned tonal jacquard tuxedo jacket, but the crowd was pretty silent. It helped a little that Bowles’ date for the evening was young actress Lena Dunham — the break out star of the new HBO show, Girls. Dunham was wearing an emerald green satin Wes Gordon gown and pink Louboutin shoes.

Milla Jovovich

Obviously, a large number of celebrities were wearing Prada which only seemed fitting, but I was disappointed there weren’t more hats on the red carpet paying homage to the great Schiaparelli. Model and actress, Milla Jovovich dazzled in a red satin dress with gladiator-like strips of studded fabric, a la Prada’s Fall 2009 collection. Actress Carey Mulligan was one of my favorites of the evening. The fashion-savvy Brit wore a gold and silver, slightly A-line Prada shift dress made up of graduated sized metallic paillettes — very futuristic yet sexy and chic.

Diane Kruger

Others to proudly wear Prada included: actress Diane Kruger in a gorgeous flowing iris colored dress decorated with dyed ostrich feathers at the hem; actress Kate Bosworth in an ombre feathered mini halter dress and actress Jessica Biel in a very feminine, ivory color fitted deep v-neck dress embellished with green beadwork forming tiny diamond shapes. And then there was Gwyneth Paltrow in a short little silver “Judy Jetsoneque” number that showed a lot of skin – she looked unbelievable and she is probably the only person who can get away with revealing a little “side boob.”

Rooney Mara

Model Coco Rocha was a stand-out not only because she was wearing pants, but brightly colored pants. The lanky Rocha chose a vintage Givenchy canary yellow silk suit that she wore with a “Schiaparelli Pink” top. She said that she had fun coloring the lower portion of her curled tresses to match. One of the most anticipated dresses of the night was actress Rooney Mara’s. Mara, who has been called “a fashion designer’s dream,” seems partial to Givenchy and the actress went with Riccardo Tisci yet again in a sheer black lace dress baring one shoulder and baring most of her legs – there was a very short under piece covering just the right parts. Model Gisele Bündchen was another starlet who joined “Team Tisci.” Bündchen was beautiful in a black fitted and heavily beaded Givenchy Haute Couture dress.

Rachel Feinstein Currin & Marc Jacobs

It seems that everyone, whether they’re a fashion lover or not, knows Marc Jacobs. Marc took the evening’s event as an opportunity to once again push the fashion envelope by donning a sheer black lace Commes de Garcon dress. His “tighty whities” and his sculpted pecs were both easily detectable. I heard him say to someone nearby, “Fashion is expression. There are no fashion faux pas — not if you are true to yourself.” Words to live by. Marc’s date for the evening was artist Rachel Feinstein Currin who wore a black Marc Jacobs dress and one of those magnificent Stephen Jones fur hat creations for Marc’s Fall 2012 collection.

Karolina Kurkova

Tom Ford has also become somewhat of a recognizable face outside the world of fashion. Tom looked great as usual and his date, model Chanel Iman, was radiating haute couture in a black and white Ford creation. Another stunning beauty, and perhaps the most photographed of the night, was Karolina Kurkova wearing an open back, rose gold sequined Rachel Zoe dress and matching turban-like headband. Styling is Zoe’s specialty and she used Kurkova’s statuesque figure to help turn a fairly simple design into something amazing.

Although actress Rene Zellweger didn’t exactly take any fashion risks, she looked absolutely amazing in her custom Pucci. It may have taken her an inordinate amount of time to climb the stairs since she couldn’t move her legs in the black ultra form fitted gown, but it was worth it. Black can be tricky on the red carpet, but actress Rosario Dawson made it work in a Calvin Klein floor length, sleeveless leather dress with a funnel collar. And Bergdorf’s Linda Fargo wore an exquisitely embroidered black Naeem Khan cape which was definitely a show stopper.

The peplum proved to be a trend with a bit of staying power. Actress January Jones’ Atlelier Versace and Solange Knowles’ Rachel Roy dresses were both bright yellow and both had peplum treatments. Actress Eva Mendes donned a strapless orange peplum dress by Prada. Sofia Vergara’s pretty strapless Marchesa dress had a cascading peplum and model Linda Evangelista’s peplum surrounded the waist of her simple black column dress.

Tiny actress Christina Ricci was nearly swallowed up by the gigantic bow on her Thakoon ensemble proving that bigger isn’t always better — but in Zac Posen’s case it is. The extravagant designer’s dusty mauve strapless creation for actress Amber Heard had a sizeable train that was worked into a paper mache-like sculpture gently resting on the back. And his midnight blue gown for actress Leslie Bibb was enormous. Still, she moved about quite gracefully with volumes of fabric and even navigated the entire staircase by herself. The tall slender blonde was a force to be reckoned with.

Anja Rubik

While several people tripped up the last step before reaching the top platform (those dresses can be a handful!), more people tripped over their tongues when model Anja Rubik walked by. The slim and strikingly beautiful Rubik wore an ivory silk dress, by Anthony Vaccarello, that was sliced and diced across the middle and up the side. This dress blew away Angelina’s right leg. The slit went so high that the model’s hip bone was exposed and it made us wonder, “Where were her panties?” Hey, if you got it, flaunt it! Its fashion not rocket science, have a little fun. And speaking of fun, the Clarins girls — all four decked out in Thierry Mugler – looked flirty, theatrical and tall!

As the evening moved along, the big names still had yet to grace the red carpet. L’Wren Scot and Mick Jagger showed up – she towered over him and his black sneakers. SJP arrived and she was covered head to toe in floral printed Valentino. Actress Elizabeth Banks wearing a not-so-flattering peplum ensemble by designer, Mary Katrantzou, hurried up the stairs and answered with a stern, “No” when one reporter asked for a quick comment. Poor Brooke Shields hobbled with a cane, but still managed to look pretty and somewhat graceful. Where was Rihanna? And Beyonce?

Suddenly, mass hysteria broke out on Fifth Avenue and Rihanna stepped into the spotlight. Though she looked glamorous and very haute couture in a backless long sleeve, black Tom Ford crocodile textured dress, I was hoping for something a little more. Rihanna has been a fashion risk taker and I thought that she would have been a little more daring at the Met Gala.

Beyonce

So, now it was up to Beyonce to “save the day.” And she was going to make us wait. And wait. And wait. Finally, Beyonce showed up and she delivered the drama — her Givenchy Haute Couture dress was sheer, beaded and featherd – just what the fans wanted. While it may not have been the best dress of the night, it seemed like Riccardo Tisci was the man of the hour — and Miuccia was definitely the woman of the evening.

– Stacy Lomman

The post Notes on The Costume Institute Exhibition appeared first on lookonline.

Honoring McQueen on the Red Carpet

Anna Wintour (All photos: Randy Brooke)

Attendees on the red carpet at last night’s Costume Institute Benefit opted for intricately designed and dramatic outfits that paid homage Alexander McQueen’s legacy.

Jennifer Lopez

Fewer guests than one would have expected wore McQueen because many of his pieces are archived. Sarah Jessica Parker and her date Andy Cohen, VP of Programming at Bravo, were some of the lucky few who were able to wear McQueen’s designs. Parker wore a beaded floor length gown from McQueen’s archives, which as a result she was not allowed to modify at all. Luckily, it fit perfectly. Of McQueen, Parker simply said that she “adored him” and felt honored to have known him.

Madonna

Honorary Chair Salma Hayek wore one of the evening’s most lovely McQueen creations. She walked the carpet in a nude dress that was simultaneously curve hugging and flowy. The dress highlighted McQueen’s talents in artistry and designing for the female figure.

Sarah Jessica Parker

Designer of the moment, Sarah Burton, did indeed attend wearing a romantic and whimsical white McQueen design. In contrast, Giselle Bundchen arrived in a flame red McQueen gown with a dramatic pleated long train that accentuated her figure while featuring intricate detail.

L’ Wren Scott & Mick Jagger

Many other guests also demonstrated their love of McQueen’s attention to detail in outfits from other designers. Crystal Reen, who praised McQueen’s silhouettes and shapes, wore a black ruffled dress, with a full skirt, from similarly dramatic designer Zac Posen. Beyonce Knowles also wore black, opting for a floor length Pucci gown with gold embroidery. Doutzen Kroes walked the carpet in a head turning red dress with a faint polka dot design on the skirt.  Also worth mentioning was Jennifer Lopez’s striking fuschia Gucci dress with floral sleeves.

Kate Hudson

The museum celebrated McQueen’s Scottish heritage by positioning men in tartan kilts and sashes at the foot of the red carpet to greet guests. A few male guests chose to wear tartan plaid as well. Marc Jacobs wore a red tartan plaid Comme de Garcons kilt. Rock legend Paul McCartney wore a green tartan blazer.

Jessica Stam

Although the evening was all about McQueen, co-chair Stella McCartney was one of the most popular designers at the event. Speaking of the Costume Institute’s Exhibit, Stella McCartney said the exhibit “reflects him (McQueen) well.” She chose a gorgeous black dress of her own creation for the night. Her dress was particularly note worthy because of its sculpted bodice and skirt, and a hem that turned upwards in the back to reveal the dress’ white lining.

Christina Ricci

Other McCartney fans included Iman, Rihanna, and Madonna. Iman wore a shimmery gold jumpsuit with a plunging neckline and flared pant legs. Rihanna stunned the crowd in a black lace flamenco inspired dress with an eye popping sheer cutout down the entire right side of the dress. Madonna wore a glamorous teal dress, inspired by old Hollywood, and embellished with silver stars on the back and along the train. When asked how McQueen would have handled all the attention his clothing received at the gala, Madonna joked that he “would have said something politically incorrect.”

Oscar de la Renta & Penelope Cruz

We will never know what McQueen’s response would have been, but it is hard to imagine that he would not have been pleased by the overwhelming support he received last night.

– Caroline Erb-Medina

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