You Don’t Look a Year Over 29!

Michael Kors Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

I almost cannot remember back 30 years, when, as young fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, I first walked into Michael Kors’s garment center showroom. And while I certainly do recall that ill fated event years later, when, during the course of a formal runway show in a raw loft space, part of a ceiling fell on Suzy Menkes’ head, serving as a catalyst for what how has become a far more organized, centralized, and safe New York Fashion Week . Although, quite frankly, that one is hard to forget and I’m still convinced years later, that Ms. Menkes was spared serious injury thanks to her signature pompadour, acting as a buffer.

What I can recall, is how I felt when I first laid eyes on Michael Kors’s fabulously chic American sportswear classics; the way each piece was such a perfection of what it was meant to be, and how it symbolized the best in American sportswear. And now, 30 years later, that has not changed. Michael is arguably one of the most consistent designers in the world and that was the clear message on the runway at Lincoln Center yesterday, where the milestone celebration/fashion show, ‘30 years of American Luxury’, was staged before a huge and appreciate crowd. Unsurprisigingly, it was pure Michael throughout the 64 pieces shown for men and women and played out in a signature, beloved color palette — crisp black and white; crimson, platinum, smoke, and a range of make up in perfect flesh tones: blush, nude, and suntan (I was looking over at Aerin Lauder thinking she must be glad to see them as they would be perfect for her Estee Lauder ads).

The way in which day and evening were completely mixed together was very effective, with everything coming out at breakneck speed: cashgora bathrobe coats, felted flannel great coats, stretch cashmere jumpsuits, cashmere sweater dresses, sparkling crystal jersey dresses and jumpsuits, felted flannel reefers, felted flannel blazers, white silk charmeuse bodyshirts, knitted fox capes and coats, fox chubbies, double face tunics over trousers, jersey blouson dresses and halters, melton capes, etc. The strong message that resonated is that it all works, there’s a time and place for everything, and what looks good, always looks good. Yes, sharp tailoring is back, but so is languid jersey (did they ever go away?); the haberdashery menswear inspired great coat worn with a trouser pant has never looked better, nor has the crisp white shirt, or the dramatic cape and toga. Camel never loses its appeal nor does classic luxury (if you wanted to trade in your well worn camel hair coat for something a bit more luxe this season, how about that suntan colored belted alligator jacket?)

The accessories were minimal, in keeping with the pared down aesthetic of the clothes. While I’m a gold girl myself, I have to admit that silver does look clean and ultra modern and Michael was wise to go that route. It was very effective the way Michael used wide silver chokers and ultra wide silver cuffs, with the most menswear inspired outfits, quickly imparting a glamorous, ultra feminine feeling. Even the soles and chunky high heels on his sandals shoes and boots benefited from the use of gleaming silver. When Michael came out on the runway, Odyssey’s iconic anthem, “I’m a native New Yorker” played in the background. It was then that I understood why Anna Della Russo, seated in the front row, was wearing a gilt headpiece with what looked like two enormous apples (Get it? The Big Apple and New York?) I thought it was her way to celebrating being here. But when I saw her later, I realized it was two enormous cherries. Go figure.

By the way, in addition to the run of show, every seat had a handsome black leather case holding a pair of Michael Kors’s signature aviator sunglasses. How perfect since it was a sunny bright winter day.

Oscar’s Ottoman Empire

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

I don’t think there could be anything less minimal, than the collection shown by Oscar de la Renta yesterday afternoon at 583 Park Avenue. Ornate, colorful, exotic, and luxurious, with mind boggling fabric techniques, textures, and combinations, it was hard to tell which part was daytime because it was all so over the top. Prints and patterns were often mixed together; there was an abundance of furs and the use of exotic pelts, often mixed together, fur trimmed hoods, and lavish fur trims, There was ivory chenille and gold metallic threadwork, crewel threadwork, silver metallic leather and silver metallic foil, metallic Ottoman jacquards, beaded tassels, bugle beads, and it appeared that everything in the 60 piece collection, was embroidered. There was Moroccan Beni embroidery, patchwork embroidery, gold bouillon Bukhara embroidery, floral paillette embroidery, multi color and grid sequin embroidery, and embroidered multi color abstract paisley print velvets. Often times, all the above were used in one outfit (I’m just kidding of course, but I’m not too far off the truth).

Instead of Cristobal Balenciaga and his beloved Spain, it seems as though Oscar had more exotic locales in mind when he conceived the collection, (hardly new territory for the designer who is known for his love of exotica), and it showed up from beginning to end. For example, a black and white patterned jacket with tweed trim, was made of sequin embroidered silk organza, and shown with a dress the top of which was crystal embroidered wool crepe with a feather and Mongolian lamb skirt; another heavily embroidered jacket was worn with an abbreviated red fox skirt; an ivory and black sequined grid embroidered charcoal mélange jersey jacket with tweed trim, was paired with an ivory gazar dress with ivory and black sequin grid embroidered charcoal mélange jersey skirt. A chic, rather simplified yet graphic sleeveless shift was hand painted and sequin grid embroidered. And speaking of simple yet not, in a sea of colorful long gowns, there were two that really stood out: a multi colored madras print silk chiffon gown, and a very narrow strapless gown comprised of multi color sequin embroidered patchwork and paisley print.

But hands down, the real standouts, were the eye-catching coats, which appeared throughout in dizzying combinations, many of which were patterned, fur trimmed, and embroidered, and accessorized with ottoman jacquard fox brimmed Louz hats, massive coin or crystal necklaces, and black leather boots with metal heels. In one case, a frothy silver lame mousseline and pearl embroidered silk chiffon gown with tulle skirt, was shown beneath a black crewel threadwork Moroccan Beni embroidered ivory shearling coat.

Forget about the grunge look, or the looking ‘poor’ on purpose look. This collection was all about being rich and looking rich. Oscar doesn’t show on Park Avenue for nothing.

A Match Made in Heaven

On Wednesday morning, I attended an informal showing of design collaboration between Derek Lam + Ebay held at Alice Tully Hall. Whoever thought of it had a brilliant idea. Out of the 16 dresses which were shown on live models (iconic dress styles ranging from a black cotton shift dress to an elongated crisp white cotton poplin shirtdress) 5 of them (voted on by whomever wants to do so: http://www.dereklam.ebay.com/ ) will be available to purchase on Ebay on March 1, when the choices will be made public. The popular price points, $125 – $295, a fraction of the cost of anything on Derek Lam’s collection, should be a big selling point. By the way, I had a chance to chat with the designer and I asked if he had a favorite but he did not say. I then asked if he could vote and he said, “Yes.” When I told him I “live” on EBay, he said, “So do I”. Hmmmm, I started wondering what fabulous finds have served as inspiration for his most recent collection.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

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The post New York Fashion Week Notes – Day 7 appeared first on lookonline.

Legends of the ‘Fall’

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

Diane Von Furstenberg dubbed her fall collection, ‘American Legends’, and in her run of show, she went on to describe that “fearless” woman who “knows who she is, and who she wants to be”. Of course, she might as well be describing herself; undoubtedly, she knows of what she speaks since let’s face it; DVF is a bonafide ‘legend’.

I don’t need to point out that Diane made her name with prints and patterns, and while the rest of the fashion world has now caught on (what could be more ‘of the moment’?), this has been her claim to fame for decades, and it’s what put her on the map. And while naturally, graphic prints and patterns (graphic stripes, abstracts, oversized florals), were a big part of her well attended show, held at Lincoln Center yesterday afternoon, it was hardly the only story. It was also one of her strongest shows to date. She and Yvan Mispelaere delivered a well balanced, appealing, and varied 51 piece lineup that included prints and solids; strong colors used tonally (down to the boots and bags), and surprising color mixes, as well as neutrals, nude and black. And when black was shown, it hardly looked like an ‘afterthought’, whether used alone or in combination with red (as it was throughout).

This imparted a decidedly Spanish flavor, as did the use of chic black Gaucho hats, gaucho pants and gaucho jumpsuits (some of which could be mistaken for dresses), and high heeled tall suede boots with fringe trim. (FYI, culottes and gauchos have been showing up on many runways this season, and considering that they can be tricky, difficult to wear, and unflattering, I am always surprised to see them reappear. On this particular runway, there were some wearable versions).

The emphasis at DVF has traditionally been on the dress, especially the iconic wrap dress, as was the case yesterday. And they looked good whether hitting just above the knee, midcalf, or floor length (done in silk, crepe, lace, or chiffon, sometimes embellished with sequins, and almost always paired with the aforementioned boots). But the nice surprise was the strong separates (good looking jackets, skirts, pants), that could easily go from day to evening, and particularly, the outerwear and furs. This has been very much a coat and fur season, and at DVF, there were some good looking wool coats (and Mongolian chubbies) that made use of strong color, down to the underpinnings and accessories (red, shades of blue, and unusual greens were the order of the day).

That 70’s Show

Tory Burch Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

The lobby of the main entrance to the Tents was jam packed with people waiting in line to view Tory Burch’s fall collection – a testament to her growing popularity, her growing brand recognition, and her growing empire. While it was billed as an informal presentation from 2:15 – 3:00, it was nonetheless, a runway show, and as the rotating audience made their way into the venue, it was timed so that the models would come out in several distinct groups, posing at the foot of the runway, each taking her turn down the runway.

This season, it’s apparently all about the 70’s for Tory (and that is not exactly unfamiliar territory for the designer). The overall silhouette was long (and I mean LONG, from midcalf to floor length); the color palette was neutral with an emphasis on earth tones (paprika, rust, brown), ivory, navy, burgundy, and black. There were lavish fur trims (fur collars on coats, fur trimmed hoods, massive fur trimmed sleeves), below the knee length chubby Mongolian lamb vests, gutsy tweeds and oversized plaids, boxy cardigan suits with ladylike bow blouses, full cut tunics (some with lavish embroidery) worn with pants, natty pantsuits, and the use of a side pleated pant so wide and so long, it looked like a skirt. Footwear came in the form of luggage leather tall boots with a high chunky heel, and a square toed chunky heeled loafer.

My overall impression was that the clothes were sometimes cut so full, they were even unflattering on the models (which does not bode well for the average sized gal), which is somewhat puzzling since Tory herself is tiny boned and quite petite and normally favors a more controlled silhouette.

In like a ‘Lam’

Derek Lam Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos Firstview.com)

Derek Lam’s run of show began with the George Balanchine quote, “There are no new steps, only new combinations”. Well, ain’t that the truth! Why pretend that there is anything really new under the sun when in fact, it’s all been done before? Tell it like it is and call a spade a spade. Derek isn’t a designer known for trying wanting to reinvent the wheel, or wanting to come up with a 5 sleeved jacket. With Derek Lam, regardless of what the seasonal ‘inspiration’ might be, you always know what you’re going to get: wonderfully proportioned, expertly tailored, beautifully fabricated American sportswear: standout coats, capes, anoraks, parkas; perfectly cut jackets, pants, and skirts; and always beautiful eveningwear.

And there’s nothing wrong with that. He’s wise enough to know that it’s the way these wardrobe staples are recolored, re- proportioned, and most importantly, re-fabricated, that can make the difference. Certainly, these days, it’s all about new technology and fabric innovation which has the ability to change things around and help make our lives easier, more comfortable, and hopefully, let us feel and look better.

The fall collection he showed yesterday was all about seasonless layering: eliminating rigid bulk, a goal which is not only practical, but timely, modern and relevant. And he succeeded, using fabrics like pebbled leather, silk rayon twill, wool stretch flannel, waxed mink, crinkle wool challis, laundered silk crepe, along with vintage wool serge and blanket stripe wools, alpaca shearling, all of which played out in his signature chic, neutral palette. It looked luxurious yet grounded, streetwise, and utilitarian, including the beautiful evening gowns, some of which were made from laundered technical satin, rayon technical twill, and laundered technical poplin, along with the more traditional silk chiffon, silk jersey, and lambskin.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb


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The post New York Fashion Week Notes: Day 4 appeared first on lookonline.