Driving light, a crescendo of sound and a raw edge space, set the stage for the Helmut Lang show, in a collection that balanced dark and light with brilliance. From the first look, a sharp shouldered white leather blazer with sleek black jeans and black over the knee boots, the stage was set for looks and details befitting a downtown urban warrior.

The design duo, Nicole and Michael Colovos, in their second runway season, have synthesized what the brand is know for, sharply cut fitted suits, narrow pants and perfectly cuts jackets and coats, and expanding its range with superbly cut leathers, precise dresses and cobweb openwork knits, while maintaining the DNA of the brand.

Helmut Lang Photo: Style.com

Coats and jackets are the designers’ strong suit, case in point; a perfectly cut felt coat, funnel neck muffler, vest, belt and boots, turned out in the downtown essential, black. There are furs and leathers with an edge, a perfect fit for actress Rooney Mara, she of the much nominated film, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, one of the best, a superb black asymmetrical shearling jacket worn with second skin over the knee wedge boots.

Helmut Lang Photo: Style.com

This is a collection that goes beyond the original intent of its namesake designer, with dresses in subtle driftwood prints derived from nature, one of the best; bias cut, softly enveloped the body asymmetrically. The designers applied a nice hand to openwork crunchy knits and cobwebby lace giving both a modern edge.

Downtown comes uptown in this collection providing de rigure gear for the brands’ devoted following.

– Tricia Kenney

Impulse

Doo. Ri Photo: Style.com

On an impulse (since I never requested an invite in the first place), I decided to show up at Eyebeam on West 21st, to check out Doo. Ri Chung’s fall collection. But there was nothing at all impulsive about Doo Ri’s well thought out, well designed, and perfectly proportioned fall collection (which according to her show notes, was inspired by the “poetic motion and elegant haunting movement of Butoh”), and one that put her strengths to good use. It was perhaps her best collection in a while.

Doo Ri Photo: Style.com

I had long been a fan of the talented designer (who had once worked under the master, Geoffrey Beene), but thought that in recent years, she oft times employed too many distracting tricks and overstatements on the runway. These took away from the purity of what she does best: her ability to manipulate, drape, and twist fabric and most notably, her beloved jersey with which she has become famous.

Doo Rii Photo: Style.com

Yesterday’s effort, highly textural, a play of masculine and feminine, with some stellar knits, knitted details, strong outerwear, and of course, those slinky jerseys, was restrained yet quite effective. There were no embellishments, the models looked believable and modern. Colors, or should I say sophisticated non-colors like charcoal, ice grey, cream, chocolate, hunter green, ink, plum, brass, and black all benefited from their mainly monotone combinations.

And speaking of ‘impulse’, Doo.Ri is yet another designer following on the heels of Karl Lagerfeld, Giambattista Valli, and others, who have partnered with Macy’s to design a popular priced collection for their Impulse Shop. In fact, the store’s 6th Avenue windows are currently spotlighting this collaboration. While admittedly, she may not be a household name like Karl, she was certainly catapulted into the fashion spotlight when Michelle Obama chose to wear her stunning purple draped jersey gown to a high profile White House official dinner last year.

Jason Wu Photo: firstView.com

Coincidentally, the First Lady was on many of our minds Friday, since another young designer who has clearly benefited from her ‘endorsement’, Jason Wu, presented his strong collection earlier in the day. Suffice it to say that there were many pieces in both Doo.Ri and Jason Wu’s collections that I could imagine Michelle Obama wearing.

Jason Wu photo: firstView.com

‘Strong’ is the operative word here – a study in black with touches of red, with strong shapes and razor sharp tailoring. In fact, this has been a trend so far and while the shows have just begun, it seems that a strong women, (not a shrinking violet) typified by the First Lady, is the designers’ muse this season.

– Marilyn Kirschner

All Grown Up:

In its second season, Douglas Hannant Pink, the younger, hipper, more attractively priced sister label to the designer’s luxury ready-to-wear line, has come of age. The Fall/Winter collection, shown in the intimate, yet appropriately trendy, EZ Studios space, on New York’s west side, consisted of pieces that were polished and chic yet still youthful and fashion forward.

Hannant’s designs breathed new life into retro styles like the shift dress, updated with a bold windowpane print in black and white. A classic coat had an oversized collar and the cable knit sweaters had patterns that were anything but ordinary.

The musical soundtrack for the runway show ranged from Elvis Presley’s Burning Love to Tom Jones’ She’s a Lady and the disparity between these two songs was emblematic of the two types of women that Hannant’s clothing appeared to embrace. One is a hippy rocker with a softer side and the other is a proper lady who has a bit of an edge. The hand-beaded feather shift dress and spicy brass cable knit long cardigan would appeal to the former while the maroon jewel neck zip back dress would be well suited to the latter. Most of the models wore knee socks and all wore chunky platform heals.

Douglas Hannant never fails to add a touch of elegance and glamour to the finale of his shows, and in that respect this collection was no different. The final looks included a black silk chiffon cocktail dress with a silk tiered ruffle bottom, replete with small bows and a black leather shift with a shimmery floral paillette boucle embroidered skirt.

All the pieces in Hannant’s new line were very wearable and it will be interesting to see what next season will bring. In the designer’s own words, “It’s really starting to come together.”

– Rhonda Erb

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Lots of Love From LUSH

Vivacious Violet Lip Gloss from Three Custom Color Specialists

Make a statement with this bright purple lip-gloss with just a touch of pink shimmer. The revitalizing formula leaves your lips feeling kissably soft. Available at: http://www.threecustom.com/  , $21.50

The post Urban Planning appeared first on lookonline.

All Hands on Deck:

The sun was shining brightly on the Flight Deck of the Intrepid on Tuesday evening. The World War II Essex Class aircraft carrier houses the Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum and is one of New York City’s most popular tourist attractions. The Flight Deck holds an extensive collection of military aircraft from the US and around the world, including the Lockheed A-12, a reconnaissance aircraft built for the CIA that flew at speeds greater than Mach 3.

On this particular evening, the Intrepid’s Flight Deck served as the venue for designer Douglas Hannant’s Resort 2012 Collection Runway Show. Just after 6PM, guests began to arrive and rather than making their way to their seats in the two rows of white chairs lined up along the deck, most chose to peruse the exhibits while sipping champagne.

Considering the unpredictable weather that New York has been experiencing this spring, staging an outdoor fashion show was a brave undertaking to say the least. Jill Carles, Public Relations Manager for Douglas Hannant, seemed un-phased by the challenge. “I don’t know if anyone has done a show like this before,” she said, visibly relieved that there was not so much as a cloud in the sky.

With the guests finally in their seats, it was time for the show to begin. The familiar guitar strains of Jimi Hendrix’s Star Spangled Banner filled the air, the first of a varied group of musical selections that included songs by The Verve, Fat Boy Slim, The Who, Coldplay, and Phoenix.

It was certainly no surprise to see that Hannant’s resort wear was inspired by a nautical theme, what was unexpected was the way in which he transformed traditional elements into a collection that was utterly charming. There were the requisite sailor hats and flare legged trousers, and no shortage of red, white, and navy stripes, but each piece reflected the designer’s signature style, which never fails to make a woman look refined and elegant.

A figure hugging, knit navy and white maxi dress with bold horizontal stripes opened the show. The model wore a sailor hat that looked more like a chic pillbox. Various styles of sailor hats accessorized many of the looks including a navy and white tweed dress with a flattering peplum at the waist. This dress was worn with a pair of coordinating silver platform heels. The chunky soled footwear was featured throughout the show, occasionally in the form of knee-high boots or slip on clogs. A group of boldly colored “flag dresses” punctuated the middle of the show, providing a unique twist on the maritime theme. A sunburst pleated dress in bright orange with a halter top was an unconventional addition as well.

Hannant’s version of the bomber jacket was done in silver tweed and paired with white taffeta cargo pants. A red and ecru polka dot blouse with high-waisted navy wide legged trousers made a striking silhouette and a pleated sequin tennis skirt looked sea worthy, topped with a white cropped trench.

For evening, Hannant’s looks spanned the gamut, from a short navy taffeta pouf dress to a red and black plaid gown, slit high on the leg. A navy and white embroidered ostrich gown, with a voluminous skirt, closed the show, floating down the deck of the Intrepid as the sun began to set over the Hudson River.

-Rhonda Erb

The post Douglas Hannant 2012 Resort Collection appeared first on lookonline.

FashionGPS sponsored report

Photo: Style.com

I’m happy to see a return to longer lengths on the runways this season. I love the change of proportion and skirts had gotten so short, they can’t go any shorter. It also signals a new sophistication and graceful elegance. Almost nowhere was this more apparent than on the runway of Narciso Rodriguez, shown last evening at The Theatre at Lincoln Center. The designer, working in a signature color palette of ash, blush, nude, black, white, platinum, (with touches of coral, pale green and pale pink), not only endorsed longer lengths (indeed, many of his skirts and dresses hit just a little above the ankle), but it was done within in a relatively ‘short’ show (30 well edited pieces).

The collection also made a case for dresses. The first look out was an ash bias linen canvas and blush silk dress with a beautiful back and many that followed were bias cut and made from divine fabrics like silk crepe and washed silk, washed silk cloque and chiffon jacquard, bias silk and linen canvas, etc.. In one instance, Narcisco showed a fluid dress in washed kimono silk and chiffon cloque beneath a black compact wool coat that was several inches shorter, allowing a peek of the hemline to show. The contrast of ‘hard’ vs. ‘soft’, structured vs. fluid, or masculine vs. feminine, was highly effective and was a recurring theme. A coal waxed linen jacket was shown over a pale green silk corset top and a black washed kimono silk skirt, a black bias chiffon cloque/rose gold embroidered tank was paired with black compact wool pants, and one dress, which looked like two pieces, mixed platinum bias cut silk and black linen canvas all in one.

Then there was that perfect white waxed linen pantsuit, which featured wide legged trousers and an elongated strong shouldered jacket, which was unabashedly ‘borrowed from the boys’. But there was nothing at all boyish or masculine about the group of languid lingerie inspired bias cut slip dresses that followed; especially the one in black bias silk fil coupe with lace insets. Everything was shown with a very feminine and elegant pale high heel, which in fact, was the only accessory on the runway (though I think you can say a perfect body, like those of the models, would be the ultimate accessory for these clothes). Simplicity can speak volumes.

To Die For (?)

Vera Wang collection – Photos Coutorture.com

Vera Wang’s program notes revealed that her source of inspiration for spring 2011 was Quentin Tarantino’s iconic movie, “Kill Bill” — more specifically, the idea of East meets West infused with a mixture of “boyish urban sophistication and romantic other wordly sensuality.” Which pretty much sums up the designer herself, who has a very specific and individual signature style that she really stays true to and does not veer from.

Vera is also a designer whose collections truly reflect her own aesthetic, so much so that one can generally picture her wearing most if not all the pieces on each collection (which you can’t say about many other women designers).

Ultra wide legged trouser pants are everywhere these days, and they have been interpreted on many runways, but I can’t really see Vera wearing them herself. They are not ‘edgy’ or uptown/downtown enough and besides, she favors legging like pants or opaque tights worn with skirts and dresses. So it was hardly surprising that there were none of the aforementioned full legged trousers on her line, though she did have a pair of black wool pinstriped wrapped ‘peasant’ trousers, several narrow legged jumpsuits, narrow boy shorts and draped shorts (the last two did not always work). While it was not necessarily one of Vera’s best collections to date, there were some beautiful dresses, jackets, coats, blouses, and high wasted skirts, all bearing the designer’s creative, artistic cuts.

Standouts include the grey cupro jersey dress with twisting pleats and sheer organza back drape; a poppy one shouldered knee length narrow dress thrown over an ivory organdy kimono blouse (giving it the informal look of a jumper); several dresses (one piece and two piece) in a Japanese floral print silk; a dazzling black and silver degrade sequin ‘blizzard’ top and black knit swirl skirt with horsehair inlay; and a recurring group of knee length silk tulle one shoulder hand rushed draped gowns with train, over stretch bustier underpinning, which were shown in a variety of colors throughout the 44 piece collection (one in pale blush ended the show).

“Cats”

An ‘Off Broadway’ production of Cats, (‘produced’ by PETA), was staged right across Lincoln Center two hours before furrier Dennis Basso’s spring 2011 collection was to be held. 5 women, each wearing next to nothing (only face make up and a body stocking painted to resemble the pelt of a leopard, a zebra, a tiger, etc.), held up placards with slogans such as “Your Fur had a Face” and “Animal Prints Not Animal Skins”, while a few police and several guys from Ty Yorio’s Citadel Security stood close by to made sure there were no incidences. There were none and it was very quiet. That said, it was fun watching the men walk by only to notice the women’s barely there ‘costumes’; at which point they would stop, stare, get closer for a better look, and in several cases, take out their cell phones to take photos.

Meanwhile, PETA would have had a ‘field day’ had they gotten into the show venue. Even though this was a spring show, that doesn’t mean there were no furs. Au contraire! There were even sightings of abbreviated fur shrugs and other little fur pieces on some of the guests who attended. Out of the 38 ensembles (short dresses, short skirts, and floor length gowns), quite a few if not most, had a touch, a trim, or an accessory made of fur or a skin of some kind (there was Russian sable, vanilla chinchilla, mink, snakeskin, python, and alligator). The problem was it looked forced and contrived and was too busy, and a bit too much, which looked out of place considering the mood elsewhere. Well dressed social figures like Cece Cord, Jamee Gregory, Somers Farkas, and Amy Fine Collins were all in the front row but it’s hard to imagine which pieces they themselves would wear, if any.

The short skirts and dresses were too short, there were too many cascading ruffles, and there was just too much going on all at the same time for my tastes (sheer inserts, fur trim, paillettes, and metallics, sometimes in one outfit). The best pieces were the relatively simple and graceful empire waist silk gazar hand printed gown, a short ruffled dress in the same print, and a strapless metallic hand embroidered net gown.

– Marilyn Kirschner

Betsey Johnson Takes Us For A Ride/Spring 2011

Photos: Isabelle Erb

It may have been raining on Monday night outside the Theater at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, but inside the sun was shining brightly on Betsey Johnson’s world. Celebrity guests Carmen Electra, Kelly Osbourne, Ciara, Denise Richards and Kristin Cavallari watched from the front row as Betsey shared her life long love affair with the two-wheeler by way of a film that was shown on the runway backdrop throughout her Spring 2011 show. The flick was one part home movie and one part madcap tour of New York, from a cyclist’s point of view.

Who knew that as a child Betsey Johnson aspired to be a female version of Lance Armstrong? Le Tour de Betsey took us to some of New York’s most popular locations, while models sashayed down the runway in the designer’s version of biker chic. In Brooklyn, brightly colored bodysuits and biker jackets ruled. Uptown Betsey’s girls were clad in some of her more subdued signature frou frou frocks, both long and short. Downtown at the Seaport, nautical bloomers and military jackets mixed with dresses and bustiers in red, white and blue. At the finish line in Times Square models were appropriately attired to look like prom queen tarts.

Betsey accessorized her looks with “Ride Me” chokers, petticoats, sailor hats, biker caps, studded belts, sunglasses and platform heels. Most, if not all accessories were no doubt courtesy of Betsey Johnson’s many licensees.

It wouldn’t be a Betsey Johnson show without the requisite amount of runway theatrics. At one point a model attempted to ride a skateboard in her open toed platform heels and striped thigh highs, only to find herself falling to the ground. Within seconds she was up on her feet and back in character. Betsey fared much better when she made her signature appearance for the show’s finale. She rode onto the runway on a bike, then hopped off to embrace her loved ones in the front row. Finally, Betsey executed her classic cartwheel while the delighted audience responded with cheers and applause.

– Rhonda Erb

I Want Candy: Douglas Hannant Spring/Summer 2011

It was all sweetness and light at the showing of Douglas Hannant’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection on Wednesday afternoon. Members of the press assembled with Hannant’s loyal followers in the Edwardian Room of New York’s Plaza Hotel. Clear plastic bags filled with candy sat perched on each and every chair and the musical soundtrack included classic songs with references to sugary treats.

Hannant’s show had a carefree theme (”Que Sera Sera”) but the designs in his new collection were still utterly sophisticated, using combinations of elegant fabrics in unexpected ways. A waffle weave multicolored microsequin shirtdress was trimmed with a dainty organza collar and cap sleeves. A lavender and gold dusted coat and dress ensemble featured a chiffon blouse. Almost all of the cocktail length looks were in confectionary pastel colors, like the rose print silk gauze strapless dress, but there was the occasional piece in basic black. For this reason, a black tweed jacket paired with a Chantilly lace skirt and a black lace cocktail dress were particularly eye catching. Equally notable was the rare pair of cigarette pants and a single pair of shorts, which stood out in this collection that was otherwise dominated by dresses and skirts.

As always, Hannant saved his best for last with a collection of evening wear that varied from a black gown with a fitted bodice and a full, diaphanous, tulle skirt to a mint silk cotton strapless with a frothy trumpet hem. At the finale, Hannant strolled the runway to the tune of “The Candy Man”. Considering his colorful creations for spring and summer, who could disagree?

– Rhonda Erb

Tik Tok

Photo: Isabelle Erb

Casio America, Inc. announced last month that RCA Records/Kemosabe Entertainment recording artist Ke$ha will be the new Brand Ambassador for the company’s enduringly popular Baby-G line of women’s watches. In addition to representing the brand, Ke$ha will personally design two unique watch styles for Baby-G. Look for the first of these watches to be in stores in Summer 2011.

www.babyg.com

The post It’s a ‘long’ story appeared first on lookonline.

Photo: Slim Aarons 1970

It is of the utmost convenience for a designer to hold a showing of his collection in a space above his store. However, few designers are as lucky as Douglas Hannant, who has his store located in New York’s famed Plaza Hotel, and that convenient space is nothing less than the hotel’s elegant Terrace Foyer, just one flight up.

When the crowd gathered on Wednesday afternoon to view Hannant’s 2011 Resort show, there were a requisite number of socialites in attendance and air kisses abounded. The mood on this late spring afternoon was decidedly relaxed and casual. As the fashion press waited patiently for the presentation to begin, the social set was engaged in a warm “meet and greet” session, as they chatted and posed for photos before taking their seats.

Photo: Isabelle Erb

For his 2011 Resort Collection, Hannant was inspired by the American photographer, Slim Aarons’ iconic photograph of a poolside party at a Palm Springs desert house designed by the architect, Richard Neutra, for department store mogul Edgar Kaufmann, in the mid 20th century. Aarons was famous for capturing “ attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places”, and although the photo in question (see lead photo above) was taken in January 1970, it still embodies the essence and style of the 1960’s.

Photo: Isabelle Erb

For his part, Hannant pays homage to the heyday of the Palm Springs leisure class with an assortment of brightly colored dresses and suits mixed with numerous ensembles in black and white. His figure flattering jersey dress was in an eye-catching shade of turquoise. The White Raffia Tennis Dress was shown with a black and white wide brimmed hat and a black and white geometric print tote. The tweed pieces were fresh and feminine with a pink tweed dress paired with a one-button jacket and a mint green mini dress in tweed and jersey cinched with a narrow belt. Another dress and jacket in black and white tweed was trimmed in zigzag Guipure Lace.

Photo: Isabelle Erb

One of Hannant’s most striking looks was the Black Jersey/White Gazar Splattered Cocktail Dress, which had a skirt reminiscent of a ballerina’s tutu. The Cerulean Strapless Column gown and the Fuschia Organza gown with black accents were exquisitely tailored and the colors were stunning.

Photo: Isabelle Erb

After the show, guests were invited to Hannant’s boutique to sip champagne and mingle with the designer. Judging from the reception his collection received from devotees like CeCe Cord, who smiled throughout the presentation, Hannant’s tribute to the beautiful people of a bygone era was a modern day hit.

– Rhonda Erb

The post Douglas Hannant’s Pool Party appeared first on lookonline.

Nobody does sporty chic, quite like Michael Kors and the collection he showed yesterday, filled with luxurious takes on “quintessentially American wardrobe staples” was “all about ease” (as described it in his run of show). The 64 pieces (both women’s wear and menswear and there were plenty of things for the guys that I wouldn’t mind having), played out in a chic neutral color palette consisting of camel (camel and more camel), smoke, anthracite, gunmetal, and of course, black and white. It was choc a block with great pieces and desirous wardrobe staples (great cashmere sweaters, sumptuous cross fox furs and fur accessories (flings, anorak coats, even a skirt), sporty anoraks, balmacaans, military coats, chesterfields, reefers, pea jackets, metallic tweeds, perfect trouser suits, silver cire storm coats, draped jersey and paillette jersey dresses). Every length and every proportion was shown and Michael seemed intent on infusing his signature, iconic pieces with an updated sexier edge.

To that end, ruggedly sexy boots or brown leather sandals (both on platforms) were used, and the body was visible even beneath the most oversized furs or classic of menswear inspired coats, thanks to the use of deep v neck cashmere sweaters or almost see thru mohair voile pullovers. Notable examples are the white Melton chesterfield shown over a white cashmere v neck pullover and a floor length white cashmere skirt, and the camel crushed cashmere pea coat worn with a smoke mohair voile pullover and smoke stretch flannel trouser. (Both of which, in addition to many other items in the collection, I could easily envision on Melania Trump- who was seated next to The Donald in the front row) Michael experimented with fabrics and surface textures by crushing and crinkling cashmere (giving his stellar outwear a somewhat lived in, wrinkly look), he also used distressed leather, and slashed (or slit) the elbows of some of his chesterfields, making them look as though they were ripped or torn but in fact, he was allowing for the narrowest of sleeves.

Coincidentally, when I left Michael’s show, I noticed that my vintage mink bolero had rips and tears on two sides. Instead of panicking or looking for a safety pin to temporarily patch it up, I thought of Michael and simply decided to go with the flow and let it ‘rip’.

Tory! Tory! Tory!

The many reasons for Tory Burch’s amazing success were very much apparent at her morning fall 2010 installation held at the Bryant Park tents. Even though it was very early, the venue was jam packed, filled with energy, not to mention the signature clothing, handbags, boots, accessories that now bear the name of Tory Burch. It looked fresh, modern, youthful, and appealing and was all about great, accessible, well priced wardrobe must haves. There were great coats, jackets, tweeds (many of them shot with lurex). Abstract painterly prints broke up the solid colors, and there was very little black but when it was used, it was highly effective. (such as the black t shirt with long sleeves shot with lurex, shown with pants tucked sportily into boots and accessorized with a black hood and leather envelope clutch adorned with gold nail heads (it shouldn’t be surprising to hear that Tory’s bags, which have been successful hits since the get go, were all standouts at yesterday’s lineup yesterday).

There was also a cropped black Mongolian lamb jacket paired with camel pants. The grouping in camel was especially strong, including a chic knee length coat thrown over a silvery tweed dress or the camel hand knit sleeveless sweater and matching knitted cap, paired with orange pants and accessorized with the crepe soled luggage suede high heeled lace up booties that were used throughout (and are destined to become best sellers next fall). I’ve always thought nothing looks as good with camel as orange by the way, and since orange is known to be Tory’s favorite color (and her signature), it’s not surprising that she has perfected a particular orangey/red shade which showed up in several other places. There was even an orange sweater and skirt ensemble (further accessorized with orange tights), that might have looked perfectly elsewhere but at TB, it looked chic as hell. Other notable outfits: the blue tie dyed mohair coat showed with cobalt leggings and the army green utility anorak thrown over a dress and tights in a matching abstract Jackson Pollack- worthy print.

FYI, I have known Tory since my Harper’s Bazaar days (I was the senior market editor way back when she was an assistant). I’ll be the first to admit that when I first heard years ago, that she was starting her own line, I, like many others, was skeptical and thought that this was just another attractive, chic, well connected socialite with extra time on her hands, putting her name on a clothing line. And I had my doubts that this would really take off the ground in any big way. Boy, us doubters were we all proved wrong. It became very apparent very fast, that she had a major success on her hands and all I can say is it is well deserved…she is not only talented, with a fabulously chic taste level, and highly focused, but she is sweet and nice, doesn’t take her success for granted, and does she let it go to her head (What an unusual combination!) Congratulations Tory!

Out on a ‘Lim’

I’m a fan of the young and talented Phillip Lim and have come to appreciate his inventive way with classic wardrobe staples, his melding of seemingly disparate influences, wonderful offbeat mixes and contrasts, and his ability to infuse many different elements into a collection. Phillip Lim described his inspiration for fall as a woman “boiling with youthful revolt but distinguished by unexpectedly classic style” who has said “goodbye to too much glitter and too much skin and is looking for something more polished and streamlined”. Working in a neutral color palette (the color palette of the season): camel, ecru, grey, charcoal, hunter green, amber, buff, and black, there were suspender skirts, airy mohair pullovers, silk crepe tuxedo blouses and one great gold tweed tuxedo pantsuit, and a group of electric purple paves sequined dresses with asymmetrical hems.

But as usual, the emphasis was on Phillip’s stellar outerwear, especially outerwear with more volume than we’ve seen in awhile, from pieced lambskin and shearling coat, grey merino wool oversized ponchos with side lacing, and camel double face coats to voluminous cape coats in outsized checks, some of which were binded in leather, a la Bonnie Cashin. Is it my imagination, or was the late Bonnie Cashin, who I’m also a huge fan of, having collected some of her great coats through the years, somewhat of an inspiration?

-Marilyn Kirschner

“A Rising Star”

This year’s winner of the Fashion Group International’s coveted Rising Star Award for womenswear, Peter Hidalgo, showed his Fall 2010 collection at FGI’s venue yesterday. The presentation was a chic and concise display of body conscious silhouettes and clever draping that portrayed a distinct point of view. Hidalgo’s dimensional creations are intricate, but not overdesigned. The Dominican born designer apprenticed under the famous fashion illustrator, Antonio Lopez. “I was more of an illustrator before, but now I drape everything. I need to see how the fabric is going to fall, how it reacts,” Hidalgo said. When I asked him about the technique behind his black strapless “heart” dress Hidalgo explained, “I started with a v-neck and the pieces just fell down that way and created the shape.” The heart concept was manipulated in different ways throughout the collection showing up in neckline shape, draped folds and as a beaded appliqué. The underappreciated designer has endured for nearly two decades in this difficult industry — perhaps the heart shape was a symbol of the dedicated Hildalgo’s passion for design.

-Stacy Lomman

Anna Sui’s Arts and Crafts Fare

The wonderful thing about Anna Sui is that her collections always focus on a theme. This season her Fall/Winter 2010 runway show, held in the Tent at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, paid homage to the arts and crafts movement with a decidedly retro rock and roll edge. Appropriately, Peaches Geldoff, daughter of rock star Bob Geldoff, was seated front and center to observe the proceedings.

Sui mixed textures and patterns in layer upon layer to create looks that were homespun yet fresh and contemporary. There were jacquard knits, shearlings, silks and sequins in earthy tones like mushroom, rust, wine, cornflower and olive. Accessories included Adrienne Landau furs, James Coviello knit hats, and textured tights from the new Anna Sui Legwear Collection.

There are always ultra feminine looks in an Anna Sui collection and this one was no exception. The dusty blue/navy silk jacquard dress was particularly flattering as was the plum metallic velvet burnout dress. Other noteworthy looks included the short cocoa cardigan trimmed in velvet and paired with a metallic chiffon dress and a navy knit jumper over a print dress made of bamboo twill.

Sui saved her best for last, closing the show with vintage inspired dresses crafted of antique ivory lace and velvet that were exceptionally beautiful.

-Rhonda Erb

And Now For Something Completely Different: Douglas Hannant Rocks the Kaye Playhouse

Last season Douglas Hannant debuted his Spring 2010 collection at New York’s Plaza Hotel to coincide with the opening of his flagship store in the city’s venerable landmark. The location was just a stone’s throw away from the homes of his loyal Upper East Side followers. This season the designer took his show right into their backyards. His Fall 2010 showing was held on Wednesday afternoon in the Kaye Playhouse, located right off Park Avenue.

The audience included the usual attendees like Cece Cord and Kimberly Guilfoyle, but everything else about the theatrical showing was decidedly unexpected. Using the artist Jean-Michel Basquit as his inspiration, Hannant decorated the stage with graffiti covered panels and the models walked to a hard driving 80’s rock soundtrack courtesy of DJ Russian Bear. Surely this was not the Douglas Hannant we have come to know.

Leave it to Hannant to mix conventional elements like houndstooth checks and tweeds with graffiti inspired prints. A body hugging chocolate brown tweed banded dress was shown with a teal fox fur jacket and a leopard beret complemented a velvet and tweed jacket and skirt ensemble. Hand painted prints decorated stove pipe jeans and a short skirt. The color palette included metallics in silver, gold, blue and green as well as bright red and violet.

Douglas Hannant may have strayed from his roots with his fall collection but he has not forgotten who his customer is. His tailoring always complements the body and his 80’s inspired looks were all completely wearable. As always, Hannant closed his show with his signature formal gowns. He managed to infuse elegance into his graffiti stylings with a full-skirted taffeta gown and an exquisite sequin column dress that would be a stand out in any collection.

– Rhonda Erb

The Daily Bet

The Powermat Wireless Charging System

You can’t live without your cell phone or your iPod, but you could live without the hassle of keeping up with the chargers that it takes to power them and all of your other handheld electronics. The Powermat Wireless Charging Station charges up to three electronic devices simultaneously, using either a powercube that comes with the mat or individual receivers that are sold separately. There is also a foldable mat that can be used for travel.

Powermat Home and Office Mat and Powermat Portable Mat, $99.99 each
http://www.thesharperimage.com/

– Rhonda Erb

The post Tory! Tory! Tory! appeared first on lookonline.

The weather was so glorious yesterday that it’s hard to imagine anything could happen which would spoil the good feelings. But it did and this one takes the cake. I boarded the bus provided by Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, right after the 1 p.m. Tracy Reese show ended, to head downtown to Donna Karan, who always shows her collections at 711 Greenwich Street. The ride was uneventful. The show was scheduled for 2 p.m. and we got there a few minutes before the show was to begin –approximately 2:30.

The 41 piece collection went by the title, ‘What’s in the Air’, and Donna cited inspiration from the elements: “the sky, water, wind, sand, earth and fire” (what else is new?) Whereas the designer seemed to revisit her roots for the fall collection (where all her familiar ‘best hits’ were re invented and re imagined), spring was a bit more esoteric and experimental (and what’s with those unnecessary Stephen Jones hats, Donna?). While there were a smattering of coats and some pants, it was primarily about artfully deconstructed and fitted skirt suits, worn over stretch body suits, in innovative fabrics (such as viscose matte stretch twill and silk/nylon stretch taffeta) which allowed for fabric manipulation and a feeling of movement.

Evening consisted of Donna’s familiar draped gowns (many of them narrow yet falling away from the body, exposing the sides and backs) in viscose/silk crepe jersey and viscose/silk satin devore. Admittedly, these are not the easiest dresses to pull off if you need to wear any sort of undergarment, or if you are not over 6 feet tall and weight under 100 pounds, like Donna’s stable of models.

The color palette carried out the ‘elements’ theme throughout, in barely there non colors such as pumice, storm, blush, and sky blue, not necessarily the most flattering shades to wear for most women; which made the periodic appearance of ‘fire coral’ (lacquer red by any other name), even more appealing. This turned up in form of a stretch taffeta coat, stretch canvas strapless dress, organza shell; a double linen envelope jacket and double linen scissor pant; a nylon stretch dress with coral branch belt; and a viscose/silk satin devore evening dress.

And since I was sitting across the room from Anna Wintour, who I knew was headed out to the U.S. Open men’s finals (she kept looking at her watch and checking her cell phone), I was reminded that red was the power color worn so well by her good friend Roger Federer this season (though he lost his match last night). By the way, Anna made her quick exit out a back door right before the show’s finale.

‘Dumb and Dumber’

Well anyway, after the show, I looked for Stephanie, the sweet intern who was trying to be helpful and in charge of getting show goers on the bus (in her fuchsia dress, she was hard to miss). She was also in charge of getting us up to the Yeohlee show at 4 (it did seem as though we would have a bit of time to kill but I thought that was wise). We waited and waited and finally, the bus came back and picked up a group of us. It was only after the bus left, that we were told it would make one stop, on West 21st street, where Thakoon was showing at 3. I assumed the bus was dropping show goers off to Thakoon to see the show. Well,I was wrong! When we got to the venue, Eyebeam, at 10th Avenue and west 21st street, we were told that we were going to wait until Thakoon ended, and then bring those attendees to Yeohlee, on West 35th Street.

When a few of us complained, it was obvious that Stephanie did not have the authority to give directions to the bus driver to drive us to Yeohlee or to bring us closer to transportation. She had to answer to ‘higher authorities’, specifically, Katie, at the ‘Command Station’ at the Bryant Park Tents. There were many of us who were irked because this was a huge waste of precious time. We were literally sitting and waiting on the bus for what turned out to be nearly two hours and literally felt we were being ‘hijacked’ and had no choice but to wait. And on top of that, when we finally got to 34th and 7th, just a few blocks away from Yeohlee’s showroom, the bus driver headed east, all the way to Madison Avenue in order to make a turn back to 35th street! We could have simply gotten off the bus on 7th Avenue, walked two blocks, and had gotten there a half hour earlier than we did (it was about 4:30 when we arrived). It was a true comedy of errors though it wasn’t really funny. I blame it on lack of communication and poor organization. But regardless, it was unacceptable.

‘Birds of a Feather’

In the meanwhile, when I walked into the Yeohlee showroom, in addition to FIT’s Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears, Elsa Klensch, and Joan Kaner, I spotted Iris Apfel sitting in the front row. Of course, she’s the original ‘Rare Bird’ (‘Rara Avis’ was the name given to exhibit mounted by the Met’s Costume Institute several years ago, when they paid homage to her colorful and eclectic sense of style). Coincidentally, after I read Yeohlee’s program notes that I found there was actually a ‘connection’ between Iris and Yeohlee’s collection, which was called, ‘The Shape of Sound’.

In addition to the “invisible sonic dimension of sound”, Yeohlee cited tropical birds with their colorful plumage as inspiration for a well edited 21 piece collection that was all about form, texture, and movement. And it was departure for the designer in that it was less severe, austere, and minimal than in the past, and dare I say, more colorful, playful and very feminine! There was a veritable explosion of color, and the use of a print (a fuchsia, green, buttercup ‘Macaroon Dot’ which was fashioned into a ‘bird’ dress and was also used for a peplum jacket paired with a striped sailor top and fuchsia cotton pique shorts). And, can you imagine there were even ‘ruffles’.

But not your typical ruffle, this is Yeohlee, so it’s always about the arduous, brilliant, and innovative manipulation of fabric, and working it into a theme where every detail tells a story. And so, a stripe embroidery fabric mimicked a musical score; sound was envisioned as ‘waves’ (as seen in the stripe embro wave top worn with a black jersey wing skirt); interlocking sound wave patterns were woven onto the top of a black jersey dress; and the wave theme continued in several metallic brass matelasse dresses, which exposed the fabric’s soft white cotton interior, (“a link to the contrasting surfaces found in melodic duality” according to program notes).

Carolina’s a ‘Basket’ Case

Could it be that Carolina Herrera is taking boxing lessons with Ralph Rucci to help her stay in great shape? Perhaps that would explain why a longtime Rucci inspiration: the intricate forms, textures and techniques used in the ancient art of Japanese basket weaving, has found its way into her spring 2010 collection where they were translated onto fabrics, prints, and could be found in the interlacing of the accessories. Hence, there were stone rope weave jacquard linens, straw striped linens, embroidered rope weave printed cottons, and basket weave jacquards (like the asymmetrical gown that ended the show).

Carrying out the nature theme was the predominately neutral color palette, based around stone, straw, ivory, caramel, and amber, with hits of amethyst and rose. While there were probably more evening gowns shown on this runway, than on any other thus far, there were also knee length and ‘tea length’ dresses, many of which were beaded and embroidered, which added further texture, shine, and surface interest. And the designer apparently feels very strongly about the new ‘short’ suit (a belted jacket worn over shorts), because they were a recurring theme, several of which were beaded as well.

Blame it on Rio

Attending a Carlos Miele show is often like taking a quick trip to Brazil. Carlos’s forte has long been his exuberantly colored eveningwear and he didn’t disappoint this time around. But in addition to his dresses and gowns, he included more separates this time, which made for a nice balance.

Standouts include the group of pink degrade silk chiffons (a mini dress was shown with a nude tropical wool pleated bolero, a long gown was shown beneath a nude silk chiffon vest with colorful silk ‘deadlocks’, and the pink degrade silk chiffon was used for a tank top and paired with nude wool pants and a dark denim bolero). Black and white beach and city photo prints found their way onto long and short dresses, and python and snake prints turned up in the form of separates and evening gowns…one, in silk charmeuse with a deeply plunging neckline, was standout.

Mirror like embroidery added texture and shine to a nude tropical wool jacket shown with stiff dark jeans; decorated a black wool jacket which was paired with nude tropical wool shorts, and completely covered a black silk bolero, which was thrown over a black silk tank and wool mini. All I know is when the show was over, I was somehow hungry for Brazilian food.

-Marilyn Kirschner

“Move Over Eloise”: Douglas Hannant At The Plaza

The Park Avenue set has a new outpost to call home. Designer Douglas Hannant opened his first retail boutique last month in New York’s Plaza Hotel. There is no sign of a recession in Hannant’s chic new flagship store. The elegant boutique, designed by Geoffrey Bradfield, features white Venetian plaster, mirrored walls, and white marble floors. Located on the street level of the Plaza’s retail area and in close proximity to Hannant’s loyal clientele, one assumes that the store will fare better than some of the hotel’s other retail establishments.

To celebrate the boutique’s opening, Hannant presented his Spring 2010 collection at a cocktail party held Monday night in the Plaza’s Terrace Room. The theme was a tribute to Venus, the goddess of love, and the space was draped throughout in large swaths of white fabric. The designer’s new looks were displayed on mannequins mounted high above the crowd, as fashionistas and socialites sipped champagne while listening to an 80’s music mix.

In keeping with the theme, Hannant’s new offerings were predictably elegant and goddess like. The color palette included pale shades of blue, yellow, pink, lavender, and green. Two of his most striking gowns were in delicate prints, one in porcelain blue and another in a multi hued floral pattern.

Since not every night can be a party, even for Hannant’s social set, the collection also included skinny pants paired with soft blouses, knee length dresses and well-tailored suits. In addition to the designer’s luxury ready to wear, a new line of accessories will be sold in Hannant’s boutique. The line will feature jewelry, shoes, hats, and evening bags.

– Rhonda Erb

“The Daily Bet” by Rhonda Erb

The Sharpie Bar



On Monday, everyone’s favorite permanent marker, Sharpie, debuted its very first Sharpie Bar in the lobby of the tents at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Designer Betsey Johnson headlined an event to introduce her exclusive Sharpie Shirt. While there, she demonstrated her doodling skills using the colorful markers. The Sharpie Bar will be open until September 16th and Betsey’s shirts will be available free of charge, while supplies last.

Sharpie has designed personalized markers for many designers at the Tents and you can design your own by visiting their website.

http://www.mysharpie.com/

The post ‘What’s in the Air’ appeared first on lookonline.