Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2016/2017 Photos: Vogue.com Click images for full size views

The Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2016/2017 collection, which was unveiled in Paris earlier today, had to the one of the most (if not the most) highly anticipated shows this season. Everyone wanted to see what Vetements’ co-founder Demna Gvasalia would do in his new position as Creative Director for the fabled French house. He once said that he’s “driven by making fashion that has a place in the real world. The attitude is in the clothes themselves”. Would it be a perfect fit? A match made in heaven? Or would he falter? Well, he blew it away!

Balenciaga by Alexander Wang Spring 2016 Ready-To-Wear

It was obvious that it would be a complete departure from that of his predecessor, Alexander Wang, who was Creative Director (with varying degrees of success) from 2012 until his last collection for Spring/Summer 2016 which was held in Paris last September. Whereas Wang said farewell with a collection that was delicate, soft and dreamy (a vision in shades of ivory played out almost entirely in lace), Gvasalia did what he does best. He successfully merged the touch, gritty streetwear elements that have defined the design collective and cult label Vetements (founded in 2014 by 7 graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts) with the couture elements of Balenciaga.

In fact, his program notes described his new vision as “a reimagining of the work of Cristobal Balenciaga – a wardrobe of absolute contemporaneity and realism imbued with the attitude of haute couture. A translation, not a reiteration. A new chapter.” While it was certainly experimental (with its exaggerated shapes), and represents a new, fresh point of view, it was never ridiculously over-the-top. In fact, it was believable, relatable, wearable, and it looked relevant and modern. To his credit, Demna showed a lot of restraint throughout the well edited, perfectly proportioned collection which put an emphasis on cut, tailoring, and controlled volume.

It was a mix of street and couture, day and evening, and boy meets girl. Menswear (patterns and shapes) has been a trend throughout the ready-to-wear collections, and of course, androgyny is something Vetements has been known for. So it was not surprising to see neutral hued plaids and checks, crisply striped button down shirts (with the shirttails often flying), pea jackets, trench coats in leather and poplin, fabulous shearlings, double breasted blazers with somewhat exaggerated shoulders, puffer jackets, jeans and jean jackets. But Gemna managed to take these basic and familiar (unisex) elements of a wardrobe and make them just unfamiliar enough so as to be desirable.

The collection was hardly minimal. In one instance, a black turtleneck entirely covered in crystals, was paired with a red (off the shoulder) puffer jacket and black ski pants. There were oversized clutches, large structured satchels with pronounced silver chains, and enormous market totes in graphic stripes. Oversized chains were affixed to sunglasses (everyone will want those!).There were gold and somewhat punkish silver metal accessories (earrings, chokers, bracelets), and the unexpected use of rhinestones (which appeared as clip on leaf shaped earrings and as decoration on colorful pointy toed high heeled pumps). Naturally, there were also fierce high heeled platform boots (ankle and thigh high).

And, who may I ask, could possibly mix multi colored florals with candy cane striped tights, or pair a bright floral frock with matching boots, and make it look remotely hip and cool?

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I know there are many in the fashion community who have at times, equated fashion with having a religious experience. So it was really not that surprising that Alexander Wang would take it one step further and show his Fall/Winter 2016 collection at St. Bartholomew’s Church, a beautiful, historic, Episcopal parish landmark located on Park Avenue between 50th and 51st streets.

Giovanna Battaglia & Linda Fargo

In attendance were such as Taraji P. Henson, Solange Knowles, Zoe Kravitz, Kylie Jenner, and of course, every major fashion editor, including Anna Wintour (the “High Priestess of Fashion” herself). In my opinion, W’s Giovanna Battaglia stole the show in her grounded black leather over the knee boots and jazzy red and black fur and leather parka. Unlike others who seem dressed for summer; bare legs, sandals and all (what is THAT about?), or who just looked warm (and un chic), she managed to look warm, comfortable, and fierce which is not an easy feat! (Meanwhile, the only collection thus far, which has seemingly been geared for the current record breaking frigid temperatures, is Moncler Grenoble, with their fantastic apres ski wear for men and women, which was shown outside at Lincoln Center last evening).

But anyone who even remotely conjectured that AW’s choice of venue (known for its Byzantine Revival architecture and pipe organ), was any indication that his collection for men and women would be strict, proper, nun like, sacrosanct, monastical, or clerical, would have been jolted back to reality as soon as the show began. The music abruptly turned from solemn to loud and jarring and when the first models came out they were wearing thigh high skirt suits and slip dresses in black and white checks, tweeds, and stripes; hot pants made of black leather and tattered denim; ripped jeans; fur collared and fur lined mini coats and oversized bombers; sheer black stockings printed with the word “Girls” on top; fuzzy knitwear emblazoned with the words “Strict” and “Tender”; black leather and lace minis; booties and bags embellished with silver grommets, studs, spikes; metal chain necklaces; and dog collar chokers (none of which are exactly new for this designer).

It was streetwise, hard edged, and far removed from his all ivory, poetic, delicate swan song for Balenciaga, Spring 2016 which was shown in Paris last October. Alexander seems to have taken over the mantle from Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane who has moved on from punk and grunge to grown up and glamourous with his recent Fall/Winter 2016 Collection. I could easily imagine the original ‘bad girls’ Miley Cyrus, or Rihanna, wearing the collection (when she’s not clad in pieces from her new Puma collaboration). The designer took his bow in signature, head-to-toe black. His sweatshirt said it all: “Holy Smoke”. Actually, it did look cute, hip and young “God help us”.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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The phrase “It Bag” has been thrown around ad nausea within the annals of fashion for several decades. According to Wikipedia, “The term was coined in the 1990s with the explosive growth of the handbag market in fashion. Designers competed to produce a single, easily recognizable design which, if cleverly marketed, endorsed by the fashion press, or seen being carried by a celebrity, would become that season’s must-have bag, selling in large numbers”.

MM6 Black Mesh triangle bag snapped

But I say, “Different strokes for different folks”, and naturally, the idea of what is an “It bag” may vary from one person to another, or to paraphrase Bill Clinton: “It all depends of what your definition of ‘IT’ is.” While I understand the appeal of certain highly sought after iconic luxury bags, after they become mainstream, they will invariably be knocked off all over the world. Because I prefer to be more individual, and NOT look like a carbon copy of everyone else, my tastes tend to gravitate to those items that are less obvious and a bit more under the radar than traditional status symbols. Even better when they’re the bi product of well thought out design, combine form and function, and are available at a price that won’t insult your intelligence. The essence of modern!

MM6 Gray Mesh Neoprene Tote

All of which perfectly describe the signature plush double mesh neoprene triangle hobo bags for MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela, $185- $195. Roomy (21.75” H X 20” L; 14” X 19” when folded flat), lightweight and foldable, they are perfect for toting, shopping, and traveling. They are made of durable polyester, feature an open top with an interior silver snap fastening tab, and are cotton lined with a deep pocket inside that snaps shut. A snap fastening tab at the bottom allows you to change their size and shape in an instant. The single handle with leather detailing is perfectly sized to allow you to carry it three ways: it can be hand held, you can carry it in the crook of your elbow, or wear on your shoulder.

La Garconne MM6 Red Mesh Neoprene Tote

Initially offered in red, black, and gray, they would make a most welcome holiday gift (for you or a good friend, or both!). They are being sold at MM6 stores (363 Bleecker Street, 646 664 1655; 91 Grand Street, 646 781 7852), and online.

www.ssense.com  has a red version has a available.

www.lagarconne.com is sold out of the gray and black but still has the red version

www.shopbop.com, are available in red, black, and gray, and they are now 30% off.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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Spring was definitely in the air on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street, where the Calvin Klein sportswear, jeans, underwear, performance, swimwear and accessories lines were presented. Of course, it felt more like spring than late fall yesterday afternoon as temperatures reached an un November like 70 degrees.

A digital floral print alongside neutrals

The informal presentation featured a tableau of male and female models wearing the key looks from the collection (along with several displays highlighting a selection of accessories). They were standing in a field of flowers as if to emphasize the fact that a layered digital floral print was used along with a neutral color palette of olive, cement, cream, black and white.

Underwear and denim

This line is always hip, cool, unapologetically youthful, urban, and of course, minimal. But this season, it’s an “undone” minimalism; lived in, worn in, free spirited, and individual, with an emphasis placed on contrasts: the play of hard and soft, masculine and feminine, dressed up and undressed, innocent and erotic. This was exemplified by the combination of the iconic slip dress with an oversized denim jacket; the pairing of white lace intimates and nude lace trimmed slips with denim, sportswear, and outerwear; and the juxtaposition of out of the boudoir pajama pants and camisoles with classic sportswear pieces.

A fragile slip dress worn under denim jacket

As for denim, (which is always a mainstay of the collection), this season it’s all about reimagining quintessential denim silhouettes (the new boy straight and sneaker flare jeans), and imparting a feminine grunge feeling via denim cut off shorts and culottes with frayed unfinished hems and seams. Thanks to new infinite white technology, a pristine optic white tone can now be maintained for up to 30 washes. Highlights in the swimwear line are the classic one piece suits in a snake print, along with solid neutrals, and mix and match bikinis paired with athletic inspired tops with sheer panels.

Booties with an architectural heel

As for the key accessories that anchor it all: leather, suede, snake and leopard print ankle boots, sandals, and peep toe booties with an architectural split- Perspex heel; black and white lace up sneakers; snakeskin fringe trim clutches and handbags; leather flap shoulder bags with extra-long straps; plastic aviator sunglasses with mirrored lenses; fine chain necklaces; sleek and streamlined circular jewelry sets; bracelet watches in polished stainless steel and rose gold.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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Few color combinations are as automatically striking and impactful as black and gold. Though admittedly, like many of my fellow New Yorkers, I had been loving orange and royal blue as of late (regardless of the fact that The New York Mets were not successful in their bid to win the World Series this year).

While I happen to think that black and gold always looks great regardless of the time of day or the season, since it is inherently glam and festive, it could not be more perfect right about now, as we begin the holiday season. And it seems I am hardly the only one who falls back on this classic pairing, since many well-dressed guests have been showing up in different combinations of black and gold at recent cocktail parties and benefit galas.

Giovanna Battaglia in a gilded bathrobe coat and  long black skirt

The always well turned out fashion editor Giovanna Battaglia, arrived at the Bulgari Bacchanal Dinner last month wearing a gilded bathrobe coat, matching bra top, and long black skirt. Looking as though she was chicly lounging around in the comfort of her home, while out on the town, she personified the new dress code: Town and Comfy.  And speaking of dress codes, at the Park Avenue Armory’s annual fundraiser, which was called the Gilded Gala, the dress code was “black tie with a touch of gold”. While it seems many people tend to disregard mandated dress codes, (especially fashion types who generally like to make their own rules), this was one event where most of the guests were apparently more than eager to comply.

Amy Fine Collins

There was Amy Fine Collins in a liquid gold gown accessorized with a black clutch and her black hair; Jamee Gregory in a black feather hemmed short dress in an over scaled gold and black lame houndstooth pattern; Fe Fendi in a long pale gold dress with black horizontal stripes; Archie Gottesman in a gold leather shift accessorized with black boots; and Lori Frankel, whose short black dress was enlivened with black and gold boots. Some of the men even got into the act by creatively adding everything from gilded trainers to pocket squares, scarves, and vests to their otherwise formal black suits. The Midas touch theme continued inside, thanks to Stefan Beckman’s décor, and a beautiful gold harp was played by a woman wearing a long black dress.

Balmain x H&M gold and black beaded jacket

Coincidentally, on November 5th, H&M will launch its collaboration with Balmain’s Olivier Rousteng, and many of the pieces for both men and women, are in black and gold, somewhat of a signature of the designer. To my way of thinking, there is nothing as instantly impactful as adding a touch of gold to an all-black ensemble and luckily, the market is filled with gold (and black and gold accessories).

These are some that have caught my eye:

Marques Almeida gold-tone patent leather shoulder bag, $662.71  Click here for purchase info

Vintage Fendi black suede with gold design Palazzo bucket bag, $550 Click here for purchase info

Vintage Giuseppe Zanotti black leather cuff decorated with gold spikes &studs, $475 Click here for purchase info

Michael Michael Kors pale gold metallic Keaton sneakers Click her for purchase info

Chanel 1990’s gold and ballet flats, $650 Click here for purchase info.

J.Crew’s Biella mirror metallic tassel loafers, $288 Click here for purchase info

Rebecca Minkoff’s two tone Maddie ankle strap oxfords in black and gold, $245 Click here for purchase info

– Marilyn Kirschner

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There is an ongoing connection between fashion and art, which is not to say that fashion always rises to the level of art. Nonetheless, as a longtime fashion editor and an art history major in college, I love to relate the two, when applicable, and I totally buy into the Oscar Wilde missive: “One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art”. I’m also quite satisfied with walking around world class galleries and museums, and simply taking in the great art, as was the case last night. I attended a VIP Reception at the Whitney Museum of American Art in celebration of their new exhibition, Frank Stella: A Retrospective which opens on October 30 and runs through February 7th. A joint venture between the Whitney and the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, the exhibition has been organized by Michael Augping, Chief Curator, Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, along with Adam. D. Weinberg, Alice Pratt Brown, and Carrie Springer, Director and Assistant Curator respectively, the Whitney Museum of American Art.

Frank Stella in conversation

Speaking of fashion and art, according to Julie L. Belcove, (who penned an article about Stella that ran in the Wall Street Journal last November), when he was growing up, his mother attended fashion school, and “he credits a Vogue layout, featuring models posed in front of Franz Kline’s graphic smears of black on white canvas, for his eureka moment about abstraction. He thought, I can do that!” And fashion designer Pamella Roland, who not only sits on the board of the Whitney, but lent “significant support” to this exhibition, (the major sponsor is Morgan Stanley) cited the Post painterly abstraction of Frank Stella, and his “unique vocabulary of line and color”, as inspiration for her 37 piece collection, which she showed at the Whitney during New York Fashion Week in September.

Frank Stella

Almost as soon as I exited the elevator which took me up to the 5th floor (the exhibit takes up the entire floor and then some), I spotted Frank Stella. Standing there alone, in one of the central galleries, the Massachusetts born, Princeton educated legend was completely over shadowed by some of the iconic paintings which hung on the walls. While a towering figure in the art world (and one of the most dominant and influential figures in abstract painting during the 60’s through the 90’s), he is relatively small in stature. Quite frankly, nobody but Godzilla would be a match for the massive, over scaled paintings and sculptures he has become known for. Indeed, some of the ones on display were so large, they took up an entire wall and I needed to stand far back, in another room, in order to get a full shot.

A guest wearing an ensemble that mimics the artwork

True to form, when I pointed my camera at the unassuming and modest 79 year old, he at first playfully covered his face with his hat, but he then removed it, so that I could take a picture of him, as he began greeting and receiving guests. FYI, he looked approvingly at my graphically striped dress (admittedly very art like), which I wore as an homage. The invitation called for “festive attire”, and while most of the people I saw apparently could not have cared less about that missive (not to mention the fact that it was a nasty, rainy evening), a few, like me, seemed to have factored in the honoree, a leading figure in the Minimal art movement, known for his use of stripes, geometry, and intense color, when they got dressed. Of course, there was also a lot of black being worn, which was not only chic, but very much in keeping with Stella’s most iconic works: The Black Paintings, dated 1958- 1959.

A guest wearing an ensemble that mimics the artwork

This is a formidable exhibition on many levels. Stella, known for his unconventional and unemotional approach to his craft, and for his relentless experimentation, is arguably one of the most important American artists living today, and this is the first survey of his career in the U.S. since 1987 (and the most comprehensive presentation of his career to date). There are approximately 100 works on display (paintings, reliefs, maquettes, sculptures, and drawings) dating from the 1950’s to the present. It’s a highly representational mix of his best known along with his lesser known works. There was so much to see (and it’s such a powerful eyeful), it was impossible to digest in just one visit and I will definitely want to make several trips back.

A picture from the exhibition

It’s been said, that Stella is “not interested in expression or sensitivity. He is only interested in the necessity of painting”. He is not only passionate and talented, but philosophical and eminently quotable. Among his memorable observations:

“Up until 35 I had a slightly skewed world view. I honestly believed everybody in the world wanted to make abstract paintings, and people only became lawyers and doctors and brokers and things because they couldn’t make abstract paintings”

“A sculpture is just a painting cut out and stood up somewhere”

“Time is what you have left. You just march with it and use it the best you can”

“I don’t like to say I have given my life to art. I prefer to say that art has given me my life”

“If we are the best, it is only fair that they imitate us”

“What you see is what you get.”

– Marilyn Kirschner 

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Take a look at storied fashion icons through the years, such as Countess Jacqueline de Ribes, who is the subject of an upcoming exhibit, “The Art of Style”, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute (November 19 – January 21). They all have one thing in common: they understand the concept of precision of cut and fit. We are often reminded of how important it is to find a reliable tailor in order to insure that our clothes fit like a glove. But on the flip side of the proverbial coin, there have also been those who have considered this sentiment to be highly overrated. And, in fact, it’s in direct opposition to a continuing or growing (pardon my pun) trend towards Bigger is Better.

Comme des Garcons Fall 2014 ready-to-wear Photo: Vogue.com

Creators such as Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Martin Margiela among them, have long experimented with conceptual, art to wear clothing with exaggerated shapes. Buy while there’s nothing new about this, it’s especially relevant and of the moment thanks to the recent announcement of Demna Gvasalia (a Margiela alum) as the new creative director of Balenciaga.

Vetements spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Vogue.com

The 34 year old Georgian was head designer of Vetements, an up until now under-the-radar Paris based 7 person design collective. In business for a little over a year, they have quickly become known for their unapologetically 90’s anti-fashion streetwise sensibility; well-constructed deceptively simple wardrobe basics (which are more often than not, off kilter); and perhaps most importantly, their gargantuan, monstrous sized outerwear which have become signatures ( their tan over sized trench $2390, is available on ssense.com; and their oversized black leather biker jacket, $4185, is currently available on net-a-porter.com.

Rihanna wearing Vetements’ oversized sweatshirt Photo: Tom and Lorenzo Photography

Unsurprisingly, Rihanna who loves to push envelopes and experiment, is a known fan, having been photographed around town wearing Vetements’ cultish logoed sweatshirts and baseball jackets. But let’s face it: she can pretty much get away with anything. Which is more than I can say about us mere mortals. Admittedly, this is not the easiest look to pull off and it’s hardly for everyone.

Dries Van Noten spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Vogue.com

I “get” the appeal of tweaking proportion and wearing things nonchalantly oversized sometimes (Dries Van Noten and J.W Anderson are two designers who do this particularly well). But call me old fashioned I just don’t “get” the concept of spending a fortune to look as though I rummaged through a thrift shop for men’s castaway coats; decided to raid my husband’s closet just for the fun of it; or went on a drastic diet losing half my body weight then too lazy to get my oversized things to the tailor. None of which are bad ideas if you want to play around with the look without a major financial commitment.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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The Spring/Summer 2016 collections have finally come to an end in Paris, and I’ve made some observations about the 4 city month long marathon of runway shows and presentations. I always point out that fashion is contradictory, fickle, and cyclical, and while there are exceptions to every rule, right now, we seem to be ensconced in a “more is more” period. Of course, what this means is that the flip side of the coin- pared down minimalism- will look all the more appealing. (Although, who says one has to negate the other? There’s room for both!)

Coincidentally, several weeks ago, I finally got to watch the Iris Apfel documentary (sadly, her husband Carl, who co-starred, passed away not too long ago, at the age of 100). I had the privilege of interviewing the woman who is literally a poster child for an ebullient more-is-more aesthetic, back in 2006 for our Masters of Fashion Series, and I was once again reminded of just how appealing and fabulous her irreverent, highly personal, and expressive put togethers are. And how ‘right on’ they seem.

In any event, it’s been hard not to notice a renewed focus on surface decoration, and ornamentation in the recent collections. This playful, joyful, wholehearted embrace of a quirky, eclectic maximalism was exemplified by, among others, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Loewe, Dries Van Noten (he is a master at sumptuous fabrication and colorization), Rodarte (their best collection in a while), and Gucci (Alessandro Michele has truly come into his own). Forget mix and match. It’s all about mix and clash (clashing colors, clashing patterns, clashing textures, clashing references). Some of the best (or most interesting) looks were those comprised of rather disparate elements put together in unexpected ways (one might not necessarily think they would work, but they somehow do). It’s all about the play of hard against soft, sheer against opaque, streetwise against couture, fantastical against reality based, vintage against modern, and masculine against feminine.

Speaking of feminine, if your idea of heaven is lounging around in your pj’s or nightgown 24/7, you’re in luck. Quite frankly, the lingerie department might be the best place to look next season. (That and your local notions store, like MJ Trim, which enable you to DIY with decorative tassels, sequins, pom poms and ribbons, so that you can make your own bows).

Straight –from-the-boudoir-lingerie dressing was seen at Celine, Givenchy, Calvin Klein, and Balenciaga where the otherwise delicate pieces were counterbalanced and offset with streetwise, utilitarian, or menswear touches (cargo pants, trench coats, tuxedos, mannish trousers). Perhaps nobody did this better or more convincingly than Phoebe Philo, who actually made lace trimmed satin camisoles and slips look daytime (if not worktime) ready, graphic, and far from traditionally provocative or erotic.

It also left me wondering if there was any lace left on the face of the earth. Alexander Wang, who showed nothing but flat white lace slippers on the Balenciaga runway, presented his most fragile collection to date. Played out in palette cleansing shades of white, it was also his swan song. And if you want to know what the fabled label might look like in the near future, the best thing to do is check out the well fabricated, “deceptively simple”, deconstructed wardrobe staples, sweatshirts, floral printed cotton jersey prairie dresses, and sturdy outsized outerwear (with an un- bourgeois gritty, urban streetwise sensibility), that have become the calling cards of cult label Vetements. Its head designer, 34 year old Georgian Demna Gvasalia, was just named as Balenciaga’s new artistic director (which is not a bad fit given his embrace of sculptural, often exaggerated silhouettes). While Nicolas Guesquiere’s fabulous leather moto jackets and coats were well tailored and not oversized, one could call his collection for Louis Vuitton urban and streetwise and the designer’s inventive use of embellishments, graphic color blocking, and patchwork also looked somewhat futuristic, hard edged, and punkish.

What else? Pants were shown in dizzying variety, but so were skirts, (pleats please!) And of course, length is not an issue. Can’t decide which you prefer? Wear both! At Chanel, Karl layered pants under skirts and dresses. It’s the year of the bias cut slip dress (short or long) and skirt suits have been resurrected thanks to Miuccia Prada and Karl Lagerfeld, who apparently decided he has had enough of the only shoe he showed last season- the iconic and bourgeois sling back two toned cap toe pump. This time around, the renowned quick change artist accessorized with Modish silver open toe booties and sporty flatform sandals in silver and black. Braids have also been resurrected and were seen at Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne, and Celine, where they looked great with a red lip and bold hoop earrings. They were also shown on the runway at Valentino where the award winning design duo embraced a cross cultural, African/tribal vibe. FYI, I couldn’t help but notice how beautiful and graceful the models looked, sauntering down the runway in their flat and low heeled sandals. Nothing looks more démodé to me, than watching a model fall to the floor while navigating the runway in her precariously sky high heels. And the customer obviously agrees, as witnessed by scores of fashion show attendees who eschewed stilettos for something more grounded. I guess you could say being able to walk is the new black.

Dries Van Noten collection

That being said, emergency rooms and orthopedic surgeons will be very busy what with all the gals falling off their sometimes unwieldy flatforms and platforms that have been showing up all over spring 2016 runways.

But regardless, it’s now official: one no longer needs to choose between being comfortable and being well turned out. Long gone are the days when a high heel is thought to be the only appropriate choice of footwear for evening, (or the requirement for being well dressed, and fashionable). Designers proposed all manner of unapologetically sensible flats, rubber soled sneakers, oxfords, loafers, sandals, and boots for day and night (at Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane accessorized almost everything- including sequined and filmy metallic slip dresses – with a rubber Wellie).

The great thing about fashion is that it enables us to wear different hats and tap into the different sides of our personalities. Notwithstanding Thom Browne’s argument for affecting a uniform (which assuredly would make life a lot simpler)  I dare say that most of us select our clothes and ensembles after factoring in the weather, the time of day, the occasion, and one’s mood. I view a perfect wardrobe as being well balanced (much like a diet). In the same way that you don’t want to overdose on any one thing (lettuce, meat, or dessert), it’s important to have a little bit of this and a little bit of that in our closets.  The bottom line is that variety is the spice of life, and there’s a time and place for (almost) everything.  To better prove my point, I thought I’d match some of the ensembles that were presented during this past month, with the scenarios and occasions they might just be just perfect for:

Balenciaga

You’re an untraditional bride.

Vetements

You’re taking the L train to Brooklyn.

Marc Jacobs

You’re attending Opening Night at the Metropolitan Opera (or La Scala).

DKNY

You’re toying around with the idea of joining a convent.

Dolce & Gabbana

You’re vacationing in Italy (and you’re hitting all your favorite towns)

Alexander Wang

You’re married to Novak Djokovic, Roger Federer or Andy Murray and you are watching him play at Wimbledon, the French Open, or the U.S. Open.

Michael Kors

You’re Tonne Goodman and want to tweak your daily uniform

Yeezus

You have an appointment with your accountant (and need to convince him that you are on an austerity budget and spend no money on clothing)

Celine

You’ve overslept, don’t have time to change, and need to get to work immediately.

Alexander Wang

It’s early in the morning, you just got out of bed, and you have to dash out for a carton of milk.

Chanel

You’re headed to the airport for a transatlantic flight and you’re not a sweat suit kind of gal.

Prada

 You’ve been invited to the opening reception for a major exhibition at a modern art museum. Coincidentally, the VIP Opening Reception for “Frank Stella: A Retrospective” (which runs from October 30 – February 7 at the Whitney), is Wednesday evening, October 28th.

Gucci

The invitation reads, “Creative Black Tie”.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post The Spring/Summer Ready-To-Wear 2016 Collections: To the Max! appeared first on lookonline.

On Monday night, The Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) honored cultural patron, collector, and journalist Barbara Tober at the Robert Restaurant, for her 35 years of commitment to the Museum. The gala benefit dinner kicked off Loot 2015: MAD about Jewelry, the Museum’s annual six day exhibition and sale featuring art to wear designs made by both emerging and established jewelry designers. Sponsored by Vacheron Constantin this year, Honorary Dinner Committee Chairs were Iris Apfel, Corice Arman, Susan Gutfreund, Patricia Pastor, Deborah Roberts, Malini Shah, Liz Smith, and Isabel Toledo. The LOOT Chairman is Michele Cohen.

Curator Bryna Pomp

From 4pm – 8pm, there was a cocktail party, preview, and sale of the one of a kind artist made jewelry on the third floor for patrons (the artists were on hand which made it all the more interesting and fun). Guests, including Loot curator Bryna Pomp, Ms. Tober, Adrienne and Gianluigi Vittadini, Jean Shafiroff, Dr. Susan Krysiewicz, Beth Rudin De Woody, Nicole Di Cocco, and Fe Fendi, were asked to wear their most festive jewelry and many took this to heart. Including moi (not that I need an excuse: for me, the bolder the better!).

Eteri Chkadua

Which is why I was drawn to one of the few women wearing a necklace bigger, bolder and more out there than mine. As it turned out, Russian (Georgian) born Eteri Chkadua, (who is a “serious” artist) was wearing a neon necklace made by her inventor brother, Gocha. They are collaborators, and it’s part of a patent pending collection of environmentally correct, moderately priced (most are $75) colorful, multipurpose accessories with a slightly alien flower shape, all made in the US of flexible rubber (the line is called LuvBomb by Gocha, (www.luvbomb.net). It perfectly illustrates the game changing power of accessories to instantly transform the simplest clothing, and its ability to amuse and put a smile on one’s face. Something to keep in mind since we seem to be at a time where the fashion pendulum is swinging back to a more decorative, more colorful, more whimsical faze (everyone appears to be taking their cues from Iris Apfel, a woman for whom more is always more.)

Danielle Gori-Montanelli

Speaking of the ageless fashion icon, not only was she an honorary Dinner Committee Chair, her face showed up at the preview, in the form of one of Danielle Gori-Montanelli’s brooches. The Washington DC born artist, who works and lives in Vermont, was there with her line of colorful and fanciful felt jewelry (www.studiodgm.com), and the standouts were the necklaces and especially, the brooches, which include crayola crayons, pencils, avocados, all sort licorice, and a group spelled out as “Oy.” (This instantly put a smile on my face). FYI, Danielle will be setting up shop at the Grand Central Terminal Holiday Fair which runs from November 16 – December 24th. Quite frankly, given the size of her pieces, and her popular prices ($15 – $475), I can’t think of anything that would make better stocking stuffers.

Veronica Guiduzzi with her Unconventional Objects

Other fun, colorful, statement making, and comparatively inexpensive lines that caught my eye: Veronica Guiduzzi’s Unconventional Objects, which specializes in unique necklaces made of unusual, natural materials such as onion skin and flower petals;

Melanie Tomlinson’s metal nature themed brooches

Melanie Tomlinson’s (www.melanietomlinson.com) nature themed (butterflies, birds, dragonflies, moths, beetles) rings and brooches made of metal; Annemieke Broenink’s rubber jewelry inspired by traditional lace neckpieces worn in the 1700’s (www.annemiekebroenink.com).

Jacques Jarrige

Because I love sophisticated gold sculptural pieces, I was also drawn to Jacques Jarrige’s display (this is the French sculptor’s first line of jewelry). Made of gold plated silver or gold plated brass, the sculptural rings, bracelets, and necklaces (which range in price from about $500 – $900) are so good looking and versatile, when you don’t want to wear them, you can simply display them. By the way, his pieces are on display and for sale, at the Valerie Goodman Gallery, 315 East 91st street, www.valeriegoodman.com, 212 348 2968.

Monies’ US Representative Joyce Williams

Last but not least, there was the iconic Danish jewelry company, Monies, (www.monies.dk.com) founded by goldsmiths Gerda and Nikolai Monies 40 years ago (US Representative Joyce Williams, wearing a few of their necklaces, was on hand). One look at the installation, featuring their iconic bold, statement making hand crafted necklaces and bracelets, played out primarily in black and gold (with a decidedly tribal feeling), I had no problem seeing why they have long inspired Donna Karan, among others.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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Marc Jacobs’ spring 2016 show, held at the Ziegfield Theatre, was a perfect way to end New York Fashion Week. You know how many of us have been talking about how fashion isn’t fun anymore? Well, Marc Jacobs is apparently ready to have some fun. Leave it to him to put the fun back not only in the presentation, but in the clothes. It was a hold no bars, out there theatrical production that had to make one smile  (it was not without its drama: the clothes reportedly arrived 15 minutes before the show, but it still got off on time: 6 pm).

Evening dress printed with the face of Janet Leigh in Psycho

Filled with a dizzying variety of looks, lengths, proportions, it was chock a block with joyous ebullient color, shine, embellishment, zany pattern (like Ralph, Marc used quite a bit of red, white, and blue, but I can attest to the fact that that is where the comparison ends!). Best of all, if there was one theme, it was that it made a case for not playing it safe, and rejecting quiet, pared down minimalism, and it made a strong case for freewheeling maximalism. (Of course, the great thing about Marc, is that it goes without saying that by next season, he will be going in the completely opposite direction!)

Marc goes western

The best way to describe it is like this: think of the most discordant, sparkly, colorful, embellished pieces one could imagine, and then put them together in the most personal, expressive, irreverent way possible, without any rhyme or reason. Quite frankly, many of the outfits looked as though Marc gave the models a group of clothes, directed them to wear them as they would like (after making sure they had too much to drink). His inclusion of singer Beth Ditto in the lineup also spoke volumes about his desire to be inclusive and challenge traditional ideas of beauty.

The outcome often bordered on ‘bad taste’ (which is great because I think good taste is highly overrated myself). Come to think of it, Marc was really echoing Diana Vreeland’s notion that “Bad taste is better than no taste” so I guess you can say he is still feeling Diana Vreeland’s influence (he cited the icon as inspiration for his fall 2015 collection).

Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

Dr. Valerie Steele and Susanne Bartsch Photo: Marilyn Kirschner (click images for larger views)

Speaking of good taste vs. bad taste, it could not have been more appropriate that the opening of the exhibit, “Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch” (a fabulous display of bad taste if ever there was one lol), followed Marc’s show. All I could say is: what a party, what a scene, and what an appropriately spirited way to put an exclamation mark on fashion week!

Norma  Kamali, Calvin Klein, Susanne Bartsch

Hundreds of people, including designers Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali, and Stephen Jones, packed into the Museum at FIT in celebration of the amazing new exhibition which runs through December 5th. Talk about eye candy; I didn’t know where to look first. Not that this was any surprise given the subject (the Swiss born icon, fashion influencer, trailblazer, rule breaker, retailer, event planner, aids fundraiser). Quite frankly, it made the “Daphne Guinness” exhibition, which ran from September 16, 2011 – January 7, 2012, look tame by comparison.

Colorful guests Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

Susanne did not become known as the “Queen of New York City Nightlife” back in the 80’s for nothing. Her first party, which took place at a club near the Chelsea Hotel (where she has lived for many years), drew a diverse and colorful mix of dressed to the nines individuals as had never been seen before (uptown, downtown, gay, straight, multiracial), and from the look of things, many showed up last night. Susanne and her friends (and followers) have long viewed fashion as a performance art; the ultimate form of self-expression. As she once said, “It was about seeing and being seen”.  Indeed.

Photo: Laurel Marcus

It was one of those exhibition openings where the guests rivaled the actual exhibition. Well, almost, because quite frankly, it would be almost impossible to outdo the dazzling 80 ensembles on display, culled from this fashion chameleon’s personal collection of clothing and accessories. It included all manner of designs by such as The Blonds, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, Norma Kamali, and Zaldy.

Mr. Pearls’ corsets Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

If there was a theme, or one thing that held it all together, it was that it was all provocative, in your face, over the top, and out there. When I asked Dr. Valerie Steele, who curated the exhibition what her favorite pieces were, she quickly said, “Mr. Pearls’ corsets”. As for Susanne’s?  Zaldy’s designs. It was impossible to look around the room and not wonder where Susanne kept all these clothes. Dr. Steele confirmed that in addition to her Chelsea Hotel apartment (which is just a few blocks from the Museum at FIT), they were stored in a warehouse.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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