It’s hardly a secret that Ralph Lauren is an avowed Francophile but I guess you could say he confirmed what we already know with his Thursday morning spring 2016 show held at Skylight Clarkson. He took his bow looking dapper in a navy double breasted gold buttoned blazer to the sound of Frank Sinatra belting out, “I love Paris”.

Saddle leather jacket navy linen shirt saddle cropped pant tan sail cork platform with stripe webbing

And while saddle leather made an appearance (by way of a fabulously tailored pantsuit, trench blouse, biker jacket, some handsome handbags), as well as tan calf totes and sandals (including cork platforms which have officially made a comeback this season), the majority of the 48 piece collection (his most abbreviated in memory), was played out in different combinations of red, white, and blue, or should I say, ‘bleu’ (both navy and cobalt).

Blue white striped luxe cotton shirt bright  red silk top navy silk cady pant

Of course, this is a color combination that is also American to the core, and admittedly, it can sometimes look hokey and obvious. But leave it to Ralph to make it look classy, chic, timeless, and freshly appealing. Really, isn’t it how you want to look in the spring and summer, especially if you’re lucky enough to be by the water or on a yacht off the South of France (or have to make do with South Jersey)? In case you ‘missed’ the boat (bateau) connection (figuratively!), a colorful and graphic sailboat print in white, red, cobalt, and yellow, was printed on to the side of a pair of wide legged pants and was used for an oversized cotton canvas tote, and completely covered a cotton sateen trench.

Navy ivory silk mockneck ivory silk pant  bateau printed canvas turnlock tote

While there were some fitted, body conscious pieces, there was a sporty ease to the majority of his shapes and proportions. The collection was built around a fuller pant (that can best be described as a luxurious jogging pant), jumpsuits, bias cut skirts, pleated dresses, silk and cashmere knits, and button down shirts, which looked especially crisp when they showed up in blue and white stripes.

Navy white stripe luxe cotton shirt blue  cashmere cable knit sweater  ivory silk organza embroidered skirt

He apparently loves them so much, he not only showed them as basics, but in more surprising ways (a Ralph signature). For instance, in one case, he added a blue cashmere cable sweater and a long ivory silk organza embroidered skirt, and he turned them into three long shirting stripe gowns and a wide legged jumpsuit for his finale.

DKNY: A New York State of Mind

DKNY Spring 2016 Photo Marilyn Kirschner

I have lived downtown (just blocks from One World Trade in fact) for about 13 years. If you had told me when I first moved down here (a year after the 9/11 attacks) that this area would be rebuilt the way it has and become a true destination; that Conde Nast would relocate here from their midtown digs; or that two major fashion shows (during New York Fashion Week) would be staged here, I would ask what you were smoking. But that has come to pass. First there was Riccardo Tisci’s 9/11 extravaganza at Pier 26, and on Wednesday afternoon.Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, who head up the popular CFDA Award winning label Public School, unveiled their vision for DKNY, in their double roles as creative directors for this line.

Down the escalator to get to the DKNY show Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

The invitation named the venue as The West Gallery, Brookfield Place, which admittedly, was not the easiest place to find, for many (including me, and I know my way around). But I had never been downstairs at the PATH station beneath One World Trade. Taking the steep escalators down to the below ground level space and mingling with tourists and commuters, could not have been a more different and less rarified experience than heading into the Frick Museum for Carolina Herrera’s show on Monday (lol). And as you would imagine, security was tighter than tight.

Charcoal grey and white pinstripe wool asymmetrical wrap dress and white poplin pleats Photo: Vogue.com

But given that this is a label which was initially inspired by and built around its gritty urban New York roots, there could not possibly have been a more fitting (and symbolic) venue. The large, vast, tunnel like show space is not being used for anything at the moment but it will eventually be utilized for transporting commuters and everyone else, from one side of West Street to the other. In addition to moi, I would venture to say that the Conde Nast editors, who are now ensconced in One World Trade, are most assuredly the only ones who did not mind this choice, as we only had to walk a few steps or blocks, in order to get there.

Cement grey wool tailored jacket cement grey wool  tailored jumpsuit Photo: Vogue.com

As for the 42 piece collection, let’s just say, it was pretty much what one would expect. And while at times, things got a bit too tricky, contrived and artsy (the photo printed pieces), for the most part, yes, it did stay true to Donna Karan, and DKNY (streetwise, slouchy, a play of masculine vs. feminine). There was a touch of navy and blue, but the collection was almost entirely played out in the ultra-urban palette of black, white, and grey (charcoal and cement). Pinstripes (shown in both grey and white and black and white) were one of the important recurring themes and in fact, the opening look which set the tone for what was to follow, was a grey and white pinstripe wool tailored jacket worn over a white cotton crepe jersey bodysuit. The use of a white cotton crepe jersey bodysuit (and a group of sarong skirts) was an obvious homage to Donna, who employed them as the foundation of her landmark 7 Easy Piece Collection in 1985.

Charcoal grey and white pinstripe wool tailored  jacket white cotton stretch crepe bodysuit Photo: Vogue.com

The notion of ‘tailored’ was another key element here. There were tailored jackets, tailored dresses, tailored shorts, and tailored jumpsuits. On every model’s legs were sheer black anklets worn with a pointy toed black leather low heeled boot shoe.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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Just when everything started looking the same, (with an emphasis on sportswear), Marc Jacobs closed the week by delivering an eye catching, highly visual tour de force that was all about the joy of getting dressed and putting the fun back in fashion. Gone are the waifs in their sad military outfits and combat boots from last season. In their place: a parade of grown up, sophisticated women (down to the dark red lips, severe top knots, leather gloves), each and every one of them polished, put together, and dressed to the nines.

The collection, an ode to a true fashion icon, Diana Vreeland, spoke volumes about her unabashed obsession with fashion and her love of the bold and eccentric (there was nothing shy and retiring about her pronouncements, directives, or her personal style). It was the polar opposite of minimalism and quite frankly, you didn’t know where to look first (“The Eye has to Travel” indeed). There was no surface left unadorned or kept plain, and other than the relatively simple opening group of dresses in black, it was a beautiful mash up of metallic brocades, leopard and snake prints, bugle beads, jet embroidery, menswear patterns, cabbage roses, and fur. Graphic skunk to be exact. There were skunk capes, coats, muffs, bags, and stoles. It was not lost on me that Marc’s very first collection as head of design for Louis Vuitton in Paris, was all about skunk, so it’s as though he has come full circle.

Trousers were shown sporadically, but basically, it was all about a feminine silhouette (dresses and skirts). There were narrow pencil skirts and there were very full, knife pleated skirts, which were really the focal point of the collection. They came in dizzying variety, in lengths that went from below the knee length to floor sweeping, and were shown with everything from tailored jackets and belted coats, to voluminous capes.

It was often so over the top, it begged the question, “Good taste or bad taste?” Diana Vreeland said it best, “Bad taste is better than no taste”. Touche!

Groovy Baby!

Calvin Klein Fall 2015

Well, it looks as though Francesco Costa has been spending some quality time at the periodical vintage shows (I’ve  spotted him at the Manhattan Vintage Shows held at the Metropolitan Pavillion), but it seems he couldn’t quite make up his mind as to which pieces (or decades) most inspired him. His fall 2015 collection for Calvin Klein was quite a departure in that it was an unabashed nod to mod (modified space age), but it also referenced the 70’s and 90’s as well. To the designers’ credit, he made it his own and nothing was taken too literally. The overall effect was subtle and sophisticated, and hardly stuck in a time warp.

Working in a signature palette of black and white, there were hits of camel, coral, brown, and deep burgundy. The emphasis was on dresses and skirts (both short and long), and only a few pants were shown in the entire collection (they were cropped and wide and paired with cropped jackets). The elongated pieces looked especially good, thanks to their perfectly proportioned, narrow, lean silhouettes, and almost everything was shown with a mid-heeled second skin boot (there were also mod inspired block heeled pumps).

Coats and outerwear, the true stars on the runways here in New York, have always been a strong part of the DNA of the Calvin Klein label, and they were the stars in Costa’s collection as well: everything from 60’s inspired abbreviated coats (combining plush fur and leather, often horizontally worked), to long and lean coats layered over long dresses. Highlights in the latter group include the elongated black coat with pronounced silver buttons, trimmed with black patent; the ivory double breasted coat with silver button; the belted number in rich brown and black leather patchwork.

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Easy Does it…

It’s not exactly newsworthy to point out that we are in the throes of a fashion moment that emphasizes all that is sporty, relaxed, and eased up. Many designers seem obsessed with perfecting the combination of form and function and providing reality based clothes that factor in our busy modern lives (and the attending need for speed). And the lines between active wear, gym wear, and street wear continue to be blurred.

Of course, these elements have long defined many designers and houses, not the least of which is Calvin Klein White Label. Creative Director Kevin Carrigan has traditionally fused high tech, high performance wear elements with his sleek, simplistic, minimalist street wear, and there has always been an underlying ease that pervades his collections (quite frankly, ‘ease’ is the operative word). This was exemplified by spring 2015, which was presented yesterday morning on the ground floor of 205 West 39th street. Apparel, jeans, underwear, performance, swimwear, and accessories were once again shown informally, installation style, on a roster of male and female models whose youth, natural beauty, and perfect athletic physiques could not have been better suited for a collection that seems especially geared for urban gym rats (the entire venue was made to resemble a large, sprawling, elegant gym; down to the dumbbells strewn around the floor).

Laser cutting, bonding, neoprene, and mesh, are used to good advantage. The predominant silhouette is slouchy (Kevin’s key outerwear piece is the sporty parka), but there are also a number of sleek fitted jackets. Denim is worn in, soft and washed, and done in pale, powdery rinses (there are slouchy unisex separates and a romper that was shown with a black triangle bra to add a bit of cheeky contrast). What is not at all unisex is the unapologetically feminine and seductive underwear (transparent black lace slip dresses and bodysuits and bustiers with sheer insets).

Calvin Klein White Label one piece swimsuit with stretech  mesh insets

As for swimwear, there are mix and match graphic and linear two piece bikinis, and (perhaps newest), the dual v neck one piece with stretch mesh insets. The chicly neutral color palette of chalk, cement, slate gray, white, and black is enlivened with touches of vivid cobalt blue, safety orange, and chartreuse which are provided by the accessories: sunglasses, bags, footwear. By the way, the active influence that pervades the line is very much apparent in this category as well: handbags feature bold hardware and clips that reference the gym, and sneakers, slides, and sporty flat sandals are the footwear of choice

Pointy toed flats in black & white python

And just a word about athletic footwear: I love flat, comfy, sporty shoes as much as anyone, and am happy that designers have embraced them, and that they’ve caught on with the customers. But they are obvious, predictable, and ubiquitous at this point (let’s be honest: they’re almost clichéd), which is why I gravitated to the chic pointy toed sling backs with squared off flat heels in black and white python skin.

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Joe Fresh red,white, & blue striped t & skirt

“There are those expensive purchases that demand some thought and consideration, and then there are the ones that by virtue of their unbelievably low price tags (and classic timeless nature), are “no brainers”. I am an equal opportunity shopper, subscribe to both ends of the totem pole, and am not above a ‘cheap thrill’ “. 

I have previously mentioned that I almost never walk out of a Joe Fresh (www.joefresh.com) store without purchasing something and this past Saturday was no exception. I was at their Flatiron location (16th Street and 5th Avenue), a study in clean optic black & white with an emphasis on stripes (right up my alley and as far as I’m concerned, you can never have enough of either; especially at those prices). Within minutes, I picked up two horizontally striped short sleeved bateau neck t shirts in thick, soft Ponte cotton: one, in black with white stripes, the other, crisp and nautical, in wider stripes of red, white, and blue (each $39).

Joe Fresh Contrast Buckle Loafer

My eye immediately gravitated to the handsome, eye-catching shiny black patent loafers with contrasting white soles and white “enamel” horse bit buckle (a la Gucci, except for the price, that is – marked down from $59 to $39). Then I saw a shelf filled with simple, chic pumps on a 2 ½ kitten heel (very Manolo Blahnik/ Jimmy Choo). I selected the ones in black textured linen, which set me back $89. (They are also available in navy and camel suede and in a textured linen plaid).

Joe Fresh large striped tote

I paid and was on my way out, when I spotted an enormous structured tote bag (9 ½ inches high, 7 ½ inches wide, 19 ½ inches long) covered in graphic, wide black & white stripes. Upon inspection, I noticed it was made of crisp cotton poplin, fully lined, with a zippered compartment and a few more for cell phones, etc. Not only was the price right, $39, it was practically weightless, and I surmised it would be perfect to schlep around town. Not to mention that you could pack an entire summer wardrobe for a weekend jaunt out of the city in it, and would make one helluva chic beach bag. And since I was heading over to the Union Square Greenmarket, I decided to take the tags off and use it immediately, so I could fill with my fruits and vegetables.

Pavilion building (photo Milo Hess)

By the way, Saturday was a gorgeous sunny spring day, the kind of day when the market is at its best. It could not have been a more perfect day to take note that what had previously been a grand but empty concrete pavilion, had been wisely converted into a restaurant, the first one to open in Union Square since 2006. The Pavilion, www.thepavilionnyc.com. Located at 20 Union Square West, (212 677 7818), it has already been compared to Tavern on the Green as you don’t feel like you’re in New York (its inspiration is the French Riviera).

Inside there are gorgeous chandeliers and palm trees, and the outside is lined in hibiscus bushes (you can dine alfresco shaded by large orange umbrellas: the patio seats 100 and offers view of the park). Best of all, much of the produce used by Chef Mario Urgiles, comes straight from the Union Square Greenmarket. The market café is open daily and serves brunch, lunch, and dinner. FYI, while it’s not exactly a “cheap thrill”, by New York standards, prices are reasonable.

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When I attended the opening night party to celebrate the new exhibit, “Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced”, I was especially taken with the exuberantly colorful and playfully color blocked designs that were on display (and worn by some of the Stephen Burrows clad guests), and with the advent of Spring (on the calendar officially, if not exactly weather wise), I found myself overcome with a sudden urge to immediately follow suit. I don’t know about you, but as the weather becomes more spring like, I’m suddenly over run with the desire to wear color and bold patterns, and really break out of that all black uniform that so many of us urban dwellers, and fashion insiders favor. Hey, they don’t call it “March Madness” for nothing . It was at that party, that I spotted a woman wearing what I thought were the most marvelous statement making cuffs in bold and graphic black & white stripes, each one slightly different. When I asked where she found them, she told me they were from a marvelous store called Chaos (how could you not love that name?), located at 25 East 20th Street, http://chaosny.com/, 212 777 3140, and added that they were light to the touch and “inexpensive” ($32), an added bonus.

The store’s whimsical and colorful decor (Click image for larger view)

I was obsessed and had to pay a visit. I was impressed with both the unique, zany, and colorful décor, and the eclectic, serendipitous, and ever changing assortment of clothing, accessories, jewelry, handbags, home décor, etc. baring names and labels you’re not likely to find anywhere else. This makes it gift perfect (even the presentation and wrapping paper- brown with large black polka dots – is unexpected and unique. The store, which is about to celebrate it’s third birthday, actually started out with the name Peoria but within this past year, it was changed to Chaos, as it was deemed more apropos.

Tall painted metal giraffe (Click image for larger view)

It is the brainchild of two women who share an affinity for fashion and art, and the combination is very apparent as soon as you walk in. Patricia Grace Stevens has a career in art and fashion that spans more than 30 years, and Elena Agostinis Patterson. According to her bio, she has a “severe case of ‘Obsessive-Compulsive Art Disorder’, diagnosed after emigrating to the US in 1976. Color flows through her veins, spontaneously spilling out into the world around her. Chaos NY is a recent recipient of a transfusion of color. Elena’s condition intensifies with frequent travel to exotic destinations, where the magpie in her never fails to find treasures for the store.”

Eco graphic bangles made from recycled flip flops (Click image for larger view)

Among the items that caught my eye on this particular visit: Eco’s lightweight, graphic, and statement making bangles in black and white, blue and white, and multi colored stripes, made from recycled flip flops ($32); California based Joy Rich’s reversible 100% cotton fringe trim scarves in graphic black and white stars and polka dots (($46); Eldenna’s loopy scarves made from cotton t shirts ($79); Circa Sixty Three’s massive necklace comprised of sterling silver balls ($595), their chunky necklaces in blue and clear Lucite ($595), and their Lucite bracelets in tutti frutti and pink and red ($129 and $239); the iconic South African company Shine Shine’s Obama themed cloth aprons, pillow shams, and bags ($36, $59, $69); the finger paintings on paper which are the work of a schizophrenic female outside artist from Arcata, California ($85); the tall (about 6 feet) painted metal giraffe and antelope ($3900), and the small wall lizards, done by a South African artist.

Joy Rich graphic fringed scarves in black & white (Click image for larger view)

A party to celebrate their 3rd birthday will take place on Thursday, April 4th from 6 – 9 pm. There will be food, drinks, music, and trunk shows with some of the designers who sell their wares, in attendance (in addition, there will be 60% off on select merchandise).

-Marilyn Kirschner

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I recently reported on several items I purchased, among them, a chain trim cardigan jacket by Michael Kors which I guess you can say had my name on it (or my initials anyway, since both of us share MK). I have to chuckle whenever I see someone wearing or carrying something by Michael Kors, emblazoned with the ubiquitous MK, because it seems as though they are advertising MY initials, and it reminds me that whatever I buy from the line needs no further personalization on my end. It always makes me think of Bottega Veneta’s famous Seventies slogan, “When Your Own Initials Are Enough”, which immediately summed up the small leather goods brand’s logo-less principle of “Quiet Luxury”.

Simon Doonan and his personalized Goyard bags

While it had disappeared in the late nineties, it resurfaced once again under Tomas Maier’s supervision. They took it a step further last April, with the launch of the INITIALS Project, (which was first introduced in a special pop up shop at their Milan headquarters during the course of the city’s design week and has subsequently made it to the company’s e-commerce stores in the U.K., the U.S., and Japan). There is an understandably universal appeal inherent in personalization, and because it instantly imparts a luxurious personal touch, it seems to naturally lend itself to the luxury market (though admittedly, in some instances, it can be a case of overkill). To wit, the LV monogram appears on most of Louis Vuitton’s products and the Louis Vuitton Mon Monogram service enables customers to customize their Speedy, Keepall, or Pegase 55 wheeled cabin case, choosing from 200 million possible combinations. Similarly, Goyard’s signature geometric pattern covers all their products, but owing to the addition of colorful, bold stripes and ones initials, legions of fans (among them, fashion insiders like Simon Doonan and Lynn Yaeger) can be easily spotted proudly toting around their beloved Goyard pieces.

Bottega Veneta Initial Project

Of course, personalization is not just for the elite. It is quite democratic and readily available at all price points. There are countless companies, stores, and boutiques, that specialize in gift-ready (whether it’s a gift for yourself or someone special) personalization, offering monogramming options on a wide variety of products, and assuredly, some stand out more than others. On a recent trip to the San Francisco Bay Area, I was poking around the Town & Country Shopping Center in Palo Alto, when I found myself drawn to Bespoke Home (www.bespokehomeshop.com), a modern and luxurious monogram shop which offers a stylish selection of high quality, gorgeous home and gift items. The windows revealed a small, uncluttered store that was hardly run of the mill mall fare. It immediately appealed to my fashion sense with its chic, well edited selection that was classic, simple, yet elegant, and obviously, the painstaking bi product of someones’ well trained, discerning eye. Once inside, I learned that it opened in 2011, and the owners, Abby Durban and Molly Gibbons, are longtime friends who both lived in London and New York and share a similar aesthetic, as well as the belief that the Bay Area sorely needed a place that offered customized products.

Bespoke Home Bar Harbour Bag

Unsurprisingly, since I consider myself to be the original Bag Lady, (and I never met a chic, oversized tote in any combination of black and white, that I didn’t like) it was the selection of classic yet distinctive bags that drew me in; especially the very large (25X19X9) Bar Harbour Tote in heavy black cotton canvas piped in ivory, $120, (monogram: $35). Other standouts are the Canvas Field Utility Tote in natural cotton canvas trimmed with leather, $270, and the Classic Canvas Tote Bag, $180. The latter is made in Maine, using natural canvas trimmed with a choice of red, navy, chocolate brown, and orange, and is a more tailored, luxurious take on the classic L.L. Bean Boat and Tote Bag (www.llbean.com). Quite frankly, it more closely resembles the Hermes version (but at a fraction of the cost). For more information, call 650 473 9177; or email: info@bespokemonogram.com.

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Deal or no Deal? At the eleventh hour, Congress and President Obama reached a deal to address the fiscal cliff. Indeed, it’s been impossible to escape hearing the word ‘deal’ these last few months, and it continues as we head into the New Year, as we are barraged by advertisements for deals and steals galore. Whether or not you’re feeling especially drained financially after the holidays, let’s face it, we all love a good deal, and there are many where fashion is concerned. I thought I’d share 10 of my favorites, ranging from $6.99 – $198 (and yes, you might say more than few found their way into my closets).

1- a.n.a Peplum Puffer Coat: What could be better than a warm, feather down hooded parka (with removable faux fur trim on the hood) that not only has a flattering peplum shape, but is rendered in chic and graphic black and white color blocks? I forgot to mention, it was $40 now reduced to $30, www.jcpenney.com

 

2- INC International Concepts puffer jacket: Along those same lines, what could be better than a warm quilted jacket with an unmistakable resemblance to Coco Chanel’s iconic cardigan (it’s collarless, fitted, rendered in black with white trim, and even has 4 pockets, currently reduced from $99.50 to $44.99), www.macys.com,

3- Michael Michael Kors chain trim jacket: Speaking of Coco, Michael’s heavy black stretccotton hip length jacket has the ease and informality of ones favorite jean jacket, but the addition of frayed edges and double gold chain trim makes it so much better. Plus, it’s just been reduced from $220 – $154, www.michaelkors.com

 4- J.Crew lace-printed sweatshirt: Lace is a perennial favorite, and always covet-able, and this piece is inspired, combining a lace motif with a favorite sweatshirt to create something totally fresh (and completely cove table). Grace, their in-house graphic guru, hand drew the lace design, then printed it by hand on a feminine elbow-sleeve sweatshirt. The artful process means no two are alike. Originally $75, it has been reduced (but good luck if you can still find it), www.jcrew.com.

 

5- Zara’s gold studded ballerina: Unless you’re living under a rock, you know it’s all about low heels and flats going forward this spring (all the better if they’re decorated and embellished). Zara’s gold studded ankle strap flats remind me of Valentino’s gold embellished low heeled shoes from last season, but the price can’t be beat (they were reduced from $89.90 to $59.90, www.zara.com

6- Forever 21’s Metallic T-Strap Flats: Flats, especially those with t straps, have never looked better, and the combination of black or nude suede with gold metallic leather can’t be beat (or the price: $19.80), www.forever21.com

7- H&M silver toned modernist cuffs: It’s all about ‘cuff love’, and these sleek modernist cuffs are a statement making 5 inches. At $6.95 each, you can easily buy two and wear them on each hand for real impact, www.hm.com

8- H&M jewel encrusted bronze cuffs: These bronze toned metal cuffs are 3 inches wide, and embellished with graphic square cut stones in a variety of sizes and colors. Once again, at that price ($17.95), you can easily buy two, www.hm.com

9- J.Crew’s neon narrow patent leather belts: A hit of color is always welcome and don’t forget: color is what makes black and white, black and white. These were reduced from $45.00 to $6.99, www.jcrew.com

10: Banana Republic Monogram black&white striped trench: This has everything going for it: it’s a trench, it’s black and white, and it’s striped. So, it’s not Marc Jacobs…but neither is the price ($198), www.bananarepublic.com

– Marilyn Kirschner

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1990’s Gemma Kahng jacket with jeweled flower buttons

I always encourage women to hold onto as many of their favorite, great pieces (clothes, accessories) as possible; even if they are not deemed to be the height of chic, or “in” at that moment. I find it laughable when so called fashion experts extol their customers to dump anything they haven’t worn for 6 months. Fashion is cyclical, everything comes back eventually, and, when it’s great it’s always great. This was brought into focus just recently.

Gemma Kahng jacket circa 1991

Case in point: Gemma Kahng’s signature jackets from her first collections in the early 90’s. It was a time in fashion that was all about the power suit, and Gemma’s interpretations had a “chic sense of humor” in the words of Elle Magazine’s Joe Zee. They were marked by fitted shapes, unabashed military formality, defined shoulders, and gloriously over-the-top, jewelry-like buttons. Sold in the best stores, they were featured prominently on the pages and covers of all the major fashion magazines, including Harper’s Bazaar (I was her editor). FYI, this 90’s design wunderkind is making a major comeback with the help of Joe Zee. Click on to http://www.gemmakahng.com/ to see what she is up to.

My Gemma Kahng jacket with flower like buttons

Luckily, I had purchased and subsequently collected some of Gemma’s signature jackets. Even when the pendulum would swing back to pared down minimalism (a look which is always valid and which I embrace), I refused to part with these decorative pieces for many reasons. Whenever I wore one, I would get many compliments and just seeing them in my closet would put an instant smile on my face. And while they might not always be part of my daily uniform, special pieces like these are hard to find. And yes, they are always desirable.

Schiaparelli’s ornate jackets

Flash back to the beginning of May and the press preview for Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (http://www.metmuseum.org/  ) . I took note of one entire section (‘Waist Up, Waist Down’) which featured several of Schiap’s iconic, embellished, evening jackets, many of which were decorated with pronounced buttons. They brought to mind my Gemma Kahng stash; I thought Aha! It was time to pull them out again!

Then I read Lynn Yaeger’s article in the August issue of Vogue, “Twinkle Twinkle”, during the course of which the writer discusses the trend towards jeweled buttons, a recent fixation of designers like Marc Jacobs, who used “buttons the size of brooches” on jackets and coats for his most recent fall 2012 Louis Vuitton collection. The article is illustrated by several pictures of highly decorative buttons from Louis Vuitton, Thakoon, Chanel, Moschino, Oscar de la Renta, and Louis Vuitton’s fall collections. I couldn’t contain my delight, nor was I in the least bit surprised to see a picture (taken from Vogue 1991), of the fabulous Yasmeen Ghauri, wearing Gemma Kahng’s pink and green jacket with over-sized and pink and gold flower-like buttons. It’s sitting in my closet and is the exemplary piece.

Jewel like buttons Louis Vuitton Fall 2012

Ms. Yaeger questioned whether or not they should be worn by women over a certain age (“Does the bedazzled button tarnish your youth?” she asked). Of course, Ms. Yaeger basically gave her readers good reason to embrace the trend. She described the embellished buttons as “playful costume jewelry, a punctuation mark to a classic silhouette”. She quoted Marc Jacobs, who observed, “The over-sized proportion and Biba-style flower motif (of his versions) kept them looking young and fresh”. Lynn noted that Karl Lagerfeld (a modern thinker if ever there was one), who had the task of rethinking Chanel’s signature jeweled buttons when he took over as the head designer decades ago, used diamante buttons to “cheer up” his gray flannel pieces for fall 2012 (“I love them on jeans and places where we don’t expect them. That keeps them going” he explained).

What are my thoughts on this matter? I think that jeweled buttons can be considered a very practical, built-in accessory. More importantly, women should stop being so obsessed with trying to look “younger” and focus on looking as good as possible and developing a signature and individual look that compliments them. I’m a firm believer than you can wear anything if you know how to wear it to its best effect. But perhaps the sentiment I agree with most, is when hip young British designer Erdem Moralioglu admitted to Ms. Yaeger that the charm in these fancy, jeweled buttons, lies in the “wrong-rightness of it”. Well said. When something is SO wrong, it can be SO deliciously right. It’s that whole, good taste/bad taste debate, or as Diana Vreeland once said, “Bad taste is better than no taste”. So, the next time you put on a jacket or coat with dowager like, over-the-top, embellished buttons, and your first thought is, “Uh uh” — maybe you should take a better look and say, “YES!”

By the way, I’m sure I don’t have to point out that you don’t need to go out and buy new clothes  featuring large decorated buttons; you can easily buy separate buttons and replace the boring and dull ones on your favorite jackets and coats (just be sure to hold on to the originals, just in case you change you mind). Some of my favorite places to search are M&J Trim, (http://www.mjtrim.com/  , 1008 Sixth Avenue, between 37th and 38th Streets, 1 800 9 MJTRIM), and the legendary Tender Buttons shop, 143 East 62nd Street, 212 758 7004, http://www.tenderbuttons-nyc.com/  . And naturally, you can always find distinctive, vintage buttons on EBay.

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