Isabel Toledo for Lane Bryant white black double faced T wrap coat, domino sheath dress

It’s no secret that the plus size market has long been neglected by the fashion industry. By right, the often larger than life persona’s that inhabit this insular world, (with their over sized egos), should be embracing everything that is large. But judging from the way the plugged in fashion flock has feverishly embraced teeny tiny bags (which have been downsized to mini me proportions as of late), many are apparently sticking to their beliefs that good things come in small packages. Of course, for some, bigger is better, and to prove the point, one of fashion’s most well respected and revered designers, Isabel Toledo, has joined forces with Lane Bryant for their first fashion collaboration.The result? An exclusive collection sized from 14 – 28, www.lanebryant.com/toledo.

Isabel Toledo silver tweed inside out trench coat and cropped trousers

It was unveiled last evening during the course of a formal runway show, and I was wondering if her choice of the iconic Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe and Phillip Johnson designed Seagram Building (it had been hailed as a modern architectural masterpiece) as her venue of choice, was at the very least, symbolic. After all, she’s helping to ‘rebuild’ Lane Bryant’s image; Isabel’s designs are sculptural and architectural; and she spent her early years surrounded by tools (rivets, studs, hammers, wrenches): hence her fascination with “spatial construction”. As she told Vogue during the course of an interview in 1995, “My designs are not about clothing but about building.” “I’m always thinking in 3-D”.

As it turns out, the sprawling 11th floor space where the show was held, is currently unoccupied and is being rented out for events (so much for creative deductions). Speaking of Vogue, Anna Wintour is reportedly doing a feature on the collection in Vogue’s upcoming April Issue, and to say that is not often that a plus sized line is given those honors is an understatement (I can’t say I recall when it happened last). I guess Anna understands the potential advertisement windfall that would result from tapping into such a large overlooked demographic

Isabel Toledo Chantilly lace poet shirt

As for the clothes? Isabel kept to her chic and signature color palette: black, white, cream, stone, gray; accented with hits of metallic gunmetal, silver, and gold; and shots of strong color (mandarin orange and sapphire blue). There is no question that the standouts could best be described as, well, signature Isabel: the pieces that are always building blocks of her collections, regardless of the size they are made in. So, by definition, that would mean great shirts and shirt dresses (a color blocked shirt dress which could be a tunic or stand alone, and the black white Toledo Jazz print shirt dress stood out); lace and lace trim (there were a group of black lace trimmed and stretch lace dresses and one black Chantilly lace poet shirt looked especially good); draped front matte jersey dresses (whether in black or mandarin orange); and of course, coats. Best were the silver tweed inside out trench coat with black organza lining, black taffeta t shirt and silver tweed cropped trouser;  and the “T” wrap coats in black and white and black and tan, both shown over dresses. And at a time when there are so many wonderful art inspired face prints, let’s not forget that Isabel’s illustrator husband, Ruben, has been doing whimsical face prints for years, and one of them has been translated onto a stone charmeuse top.

Isabel Toledo stone charmeuse with Ruben Toledo face print top

The models wore their hair pulled back in buns as to not distract from the clothes, and other than a few statement making bangles, she wisely under accessorized, using only big sunglasses, extra-long hombre chiffon scarves tied backwards around the necks, great shoes (everything from high heeled pointy toed single soled pumps to of the moment heavy platform sandals), and of course, plenty of attitude. At one point, one of the models kept falling down in her high heels, eventually removed them and was finally able to walk (and the audience applauded in approval).

You know how everyone always criticizes fashion shows for being exclusionary? Well, Isabel’s models represented different ethnic groups and a range of heights, sizes, and shapes. Come to think of it, the only group left out was the “skinnies”. By the way, on each seat there was a roomy trompe l’oeil tote in graphic black and white, and inside, an over-sized lace front tee, (both from the collection), as well as a copy of Isabel’s captivating autobiography, “Isabel Toledo: Roots of Style”.

The post Isabel Toledo is A “Plus” for Lane Bryant appeared first on lookonline.

Last week, I made mention of a new and highly noteworthy style book, Roots of Style: Weaving Together Life, Love and Fashion by Isabel Toledo with illustrations by her husband Ruben Toledo. At that time, I had only read press releases and skimmed the book’s introduction for clues as to what would be found within the 367 pages. But now that I have sunk my teeth into the gloriously entertaining, informative, and inspirational read, I wanted to share what I have discovered.

In addition to the many revealing insights into what makes Isabel tick as a person and artist (she does not consider herself to be a designer but a “seamstress, a maker of clothes) the book is filled with innumerable wise “personal credos and observations”. It also includes her thoughts on what constitutes style versus fashion. It’s a subject that has been broached by others ad nauseum. But, in my opinion, almost nobody has verbalized it better, or as eloquently as Isabel. Considering the fact that she is not a trained writer, and this is her first book, that is quite an accomplishment (yet knowing her, it is hardly surprising!)

Below are just some of Isabel’s observations and bon mots. They serve to remind us why we love Isabel and respect her as an artist. And why great, well thought out design matters:

Style vs. Fashion:

“Style belongs to no one, and to everyone”

“We are all born with a history and a style DNA. People with style, dress in harmony with their inner most, authentic selves.”

“The allure of personal style is to be in accordance with yourself first, and, by natural extension, with the world. Style is eternal. Fashion is all surface. Style blossomed before fashion arrived on the scene. Fashion introduced an international style so that no matter where we are from, or what land we come from, we have a common language- the language of fashion.”

“Fashion is as unpredictable as humanity itself. We all participate in fashion, whether we sew it, champion it, pretend to ignore it, or detest it.”

“Fashion is ephemeral. The flavor of the day and useful for refueling your style inspiration when you feel you’ve run out of gas. Fashion is easy to apply because it’s all surface. Style, on the other hand, is an effective way to carve out your individuality. Style is content. A person with true style is displaying a fertile and thinking mind.”

“Fashion may be the most democratic of all the art forms because we all have to go through the ritual of dressing ourselves.”

What makes Isabel Tick:

“Independent women are part of my DNA”.

“Everything I create is an extension of who I am who what I believe. This is why I rely on my intuiton and feelings when I approach a design.”

“Growing up and watching the women all around me express their emotions through clothing taught me that fashion can be an extension of your inner vision, reinforcing your individuality and style.”

“Fashion design begins with the sewing machine and pattern making table. I think of myself as a seamstress. A maker of clothing rather than a fashion person.”

“I design and make clothes that fit well, and allow my women to walk freely and purposefully down the street in full stride. When Paper’s Kim Hastreiter once reviewed one of my early collections, she wrote: “these clothes are for women who do not need men”. I completely understood what she meant as the cut of my early collections featured fearless and imposing shapes, soft armor for strong women.”

“My collections are woven from the threads of my own experiences.”

“Great designs represent the logical, timeless, well engineered, and well constructed”.

“How I make clothes today is about how I think and feel which in turn reflects how and where I grew up.”

“Understanding how something is built ensures that I can achieve my creative thought, thus reaching the highest quality in my designs”.

“Today, my fascination with the insides of things, and with the ingenuity of how things are constructed, remains at the core of my aesthetic.”

“It isn’t the abundance of choices and supplies that make you creative but the energy and originality you bring to the materials you have at hand.”  

Inspirational Words of Wisdom:

“Clothing can protect your vulnerabilities, enhance your strength, and highlight your potential. It can help you stand out and be noticed. Or, if you choose, clothing can help you comfortably hide in plain sight. What’s so great is that you get to make that call.”

“Clothing can enhance our powers of communication but only if we feel comfortable within the second skin. In this sense, fashion is a tool of self- expression that should set us free.”

“The interaction between body and cloth crates an emotion which can affect the mood of a person wearing that garment”.

“Fashion design moves forward when people think for themselves and dress their own minds and moods.”

“When you are in touch with your inner self, your outer self projects balance and confidence.”

“The beauty in the quality of an object surpasses the question of taste. Quality looks good even as it decays. This is why I say that if you have the discipline, buy less, but buy better”. If you can afford to buy the best, eventually pass it on, because it will most likely outlive you.”

Speaking of which, I cherish my beloved vintage pieces and appreciate their authenticity and integrity. I know full well that certain things stand the test of time, get better as they age, and cannot be improved upon. Among my “go-to” sources: vintage websites such as http://www.1stdibs.com/ , http://www.vintageous.com/ , http://www.swankvintage.com/ , http://www.fashiondig.com/ , http://www.enokiworld.com/ , http://www.pinkclouds.com/ .

And of course, I never miss the always amazing Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show at the Metropolitan Pavillion, 125 West 18th Street, which takes place on Friday, April 20th, and Saturday, April 21st (http://www.manhattanvintage.com/).

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Isabel Toledo: Style AND Substance appeared first on lookonline.

It’s official. The fashion world is head over heels in love with Isabel Toledo. It’s been impossible not to notice all the love surrounding the talented creator, especially on the heels of FIT’s blockbuster ‘Mid Life Retrospective’, “Isabel Toledo, Fashion from the Inside Out”, which opened to the public on June18th. And just about a week later, on Wednesday, June 24th, Isabel and collaborator/ husband Ruben, were once again the center of attention at Barneys New York, where they made a personal appearance during an all day fall 2009 trunk show, the highlight of which was a Q &A spearheaded by Barneys always amusing and irreverent Simon Doonan.

Chicly and intelligently dressed (what else would you expect?) in a black top, eased up white cotton canvas painter’s pants rolled up at the hem (Isabel claims they are actually Ruben’s and they have a stockpile of the functional and great looking basics which serve as their uniform of choice), navy leather lace up gillies from her short lived but memorable Anne Klein Collection, and topped off with a weightless dove gray silk taffeta coat of her own design, the designer (who admits, “I never had a job in my life; I play for a living”) mingled with guests like Andre Leon Talley, Barneys’ Julie Gilhart (also dressed in Isabel’s design), and loyal customers (including social fixture Yaz Hernandez who was literally in fashion heaven as she quickly tried one dress on after another, exclaiming “this is mine”). Mrs. Hernandez has quite an extensive designer wardrobe and when I asked her how many Isabel Toledo’s she owns, she sheepishly answered “a lot”. Isabel concurred that her collection could “fill a room”.

At 2:45, Isabel and Simon took their places on stools set up in the middle of the second floor (which is home not only to the designs of Isabel Toledo, but Prada, YSL, and other similarly high end names), and Simon kicked things off by heaping praise on Isabel and congratulating her on the amazing exhibit, noting, “Those who have seen Isabel’s exhibit at FIT are probably still reeling from the majesty of it, and the incredible range of talent on display. Those of you who haven’t, should either kill yourselves, or get over there ASAP!”

Here are some of the highlights of what followed:

SD: I’m assuming that when you saw Michelle Obama in your Inaugural Design, you screamed something, probably in Spanish.
IT: I did it!
SD: What did you say at that moment?
IT: Thank God she looks good! (that got a laugh from the audience).
We (at the studio) were all taken with the moment. It seriously didn’t matter what she was wearing. To think I was part of that history is amazing. Michelle, Barack, Isabel. I’m thrilled, thrilled!

SD: Who would you want to be if you weren’t you?
IT: Frank Lloyd Wright (Actually, it was Ruben who quickly answered for her, and she thanked him and agreed)

SD: Who are your favorite designers, because I’ve heard you mention Claire McCardell?
IT: I love Claire! I love anybody that thinks of a design and can put it into a form. I don’t care what it is. You have a thought…you have an emotion…and it is really difficult to put that into a three dimensional form. Designers are all trying to dissect things, to bring meaning to them. If you’re wearing an Isabel Toledo, you’re wearing my thought; you’re wearing how I solve a problem.

SD: What designers do you admire?
IT: Geoffrey Beene, who was the master of his craft

SD: I don’t mean to be racist, but your work is intensely Latin in a certain way and yet not in a typical ‘Chi Chi’. Your sensibility is Latin but quirky and unique. I want to know where that comes from.
IT: I have no idea. I don’t know that I’m very Latin. (And then she asked her husband if she was ‘very Latin’ and he said yes, to which she replied, “I’m very Latin!”)

SD: You have a flirtatious modesty that is compelling yet alluring.
IT: It’s not revealing. Ever. I’m such a prude. It’s turtlenecks all the time. It’s all about modesty. What you don’t see.

SD: When you see something that’s very revealing and very obvious, what do you think of that?
IT: Well, if the woman is comfortable, it’s wonderful.

SD: Who’s more talented- you or your husband? (Everyone laughed)
IT: Ruben. He’s much more talented. I just make sense of it.
SD: Very diplomatic answer

At this point, Simon invited guests to ask questions.
Member of the audience: I heard that you refer to yourself as a seamstress. Is that true?
IT: Yes. That’s what I do. That’s what I love to do and that’s why I’m doing what I do. I used to make clothes. I can sew. It chose me. Fashion chose me.

One of the funniest moments was when a woman asked Isabel what inspires her as she begins a collection. She quickly retorted, “I’m going to kill you” but then joked, “I take a pill”. This had everyone in stitches. The same woman quickly asked, “Which one?” to which Isabel replied, “A pink one” (FYI, “I’ll have what she’s having”)
IT: That’s the easiest question to ask and the hardest to answer. I have no idea. I just react to life. I really enjoy the process of things. I’m probably the best, most dedicated worker. The working of fashion inspires me.

Member of the audience: How do you want to be remembered?
IT: Lover of Ruben

Member of the audience: What is the most important advice you can give to a young designer that you wish you had when you were starting out?
IT: Patience, patience, patience. If you get it easy, it goes easy. Where you’ve been is who you are.

At this point, Isabel called out for Andre Leon Talley to ask something.
ALT: What is your next big trip?
IT: I’m going to blow glass. Ruben and I are going to Pilchuck, Seattle. We’ll be artists in residence for a month and we’re really excited.
ALT: So, I suppose we can look for glass as inspiration for future collections? Glass ruffles, glass folds, perhaps? (He said this humorously and everyone laughed including Isabel, but don’t be surprised if this comes to pass, as Isabel takes her brilliant inspiration from everything around her)

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post “To Isabel, With Love” appeared first on lookonline.

“Tonight is about the creative side of fashion” – Bill Cunningham

I know I know…this phrase has been worked to death at this point, but there is no other heading that best describes how blown away I was by FIT’s brand new blockbuster exhibit, “Isabel Toledo, Fashion from the Inside Out”, (‘a Mid-Career Retrospective’, June 17 – September 26.) To say that Tuesday morning’s press preview “made my day”, is an understatement. ‘Made my year’ is more like it. The fact that it was preceded the night before by the CFDA Awards, (about which The New York Times’ Eric Wilson observed, “It would have been disingenuous to declare anyone a real winner this year, though awards were handed out for best designers in several categories during what felt, at times, more like a pep rally than a glamorous event”), made the 100+ items on display, look even more brilliant and served as a reminder of what true creative genius is, what well thought out and intelligent design looks like, how special and unique Isabel (and Ruben) are, and just how lucky we are to have them as part of our fashion universe. Oh, and I forgot to mention….how nice they are…yes, ‘nice’ as in, warm, open, and decidedly attitude free. How refreshing is that?

The exhibition is a must see for anybody who is interested in fashion, and for anyone who has become disillusioned and disenchanted with the overhyped, run of the mill, rather ordinary (if not positively demeaning and insulting) ‘stuff’ being pawned off as ‘great’. The name, “Fashion from the Inside Out” was born out of the fact that Isabel works so closely with her husband, all she has to do is “describe an idea or even a feeling to Ruben, and he’ll sketch it.” (Sounds like your husband, right?! No, not mine either).

I was happy I decided to attend the morning event, even though I knew I was going back to FIT for what would undoubtedly and unsurprisingly be a high spirited, festive, packed to the gills cocktail party later on that evening. The press preview on the other hand, was small, intimate, and low keyed (much like the Toledo’s themselves), and I had a chance to study images, sketches, illustrations, read press clips, and it provided a wonderful opportunity to speak with the unduly modest designer (who claims she never “thinks of herself as a designer” but rather a “seamstress”). When I asked about her design philosophy, she explained that her beginning “was very elementary, which was very modern for the times” (the 80’s) and it was and still is “all about 3 dimensional, amorphic shapes, circling around the body”. When I suggested that was her defining signature, she noted, “The work process of what it takes to make a garment- that is definitely what I have to offer”. “Many times I don’t know what it’s going to look like but I know that by working with the garment it becomes what it’s going to be because I work so closely with the fabric, and that speaks to me. It’s not as simple as just sketching a nice look; it’s how do I express this fabric emotionally.”

And of course, it’s always great to have an opportunity to speak with the Museum at FIT’s deputy director Patricia Mears and director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, the latter of whom was busy fielding questions from the press, especially with regards to the by now famous yellow ensemble (which Michelle Obama chose to wear on Inauguration Day and which has a special place in the exhibit- it’s literally the first item on display).

Everything about the exhibit is perfect, conceptual and informative: its location the vast high ceilinged space down in the lower level); Ruben’s utterly magical illustrations and drawings which decorate the ceilings and appear to ‘speak’ to the dress forms below; the corresponding patterns showing the thought process behind the designs; the way it’s divided and organized into groups representing the major themes that define Isabel’s body of work ‘Origami’, ‘Sculptural’, ‘Suspension’, ‘Liquid Architecture’, ‘Shadow’, ‘Shape’, ‘Manipulated Surfaces’).

I spent only a little over an hour yesterday morning, but when I left, I felt newly energized, and surprisingly upbeat and positive about the future of fashion, (especially the future of American fashion). I was so inspired, I found myself wanting to really get dressed up and celebrate at the party later on that night.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post “Holy Toledo” (yet again!) appeared first on lookonline.

Not all the major ‘fashion moments’ over the next few weeks will take place on a runway or necessarily be in conjunction with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Approximately 380 celebrated ‘fans’ of Isabel Toledo (many wearing her creations) assembled yesterday at a glam benefit luncheon at the Rainbow Room. And I mean ‘fans’ literally, as some of the invited guests cooled down and paid homage to the talented designer with their black, white, red fans, (originally given out about a month ago at a cocktail party ‘chez’ Toledo in celebration of the upcoming award), which were hand painted with the likeness of Isabel by husband Ruben.

The occasion? Ms.Toledo, whom Dr. Valerie Steele labeled as “a designer’s designer”, was the recipient of the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT’s 2008 Artistry of Fashion Award. (By the way, Dr. Steele also admitted that “the smartest thing” she ever did was to “start the Couture Council”). Talk about ‘three times is a charm’; certainly it is for Ms. Toledo. The Cuban born New Jersey native is not only the third recipient of the prestigious award (the first was given to Ralph Rucci and the second, to Alber Elbaz), but it took place on the third of September. And because in Isabel’s case, it seems as though good things come in threes, the culmination of this award will be a major retrospective of Ms. Toledo’s work at The Museum at FIT, entitled “Holy Toledo! Isabel Toledo and the Art of Fashion”, opening June 19, 2009 through September 26, 2009. According to the press release, “The exhibition will feature more than 75 looks dating from 1985 to the present, including fluid jersey dresses, seductive lace, and architectural denim. Illustrations by her husband, artist Ruben Toledo, will also be featured, as will films of Ms. Toledo’s fashion shows and other visuals that explore her creative process. A lavishly illustrated catalogue, written by co-curators Dr. Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears and published by Yale University Press, will accompany the exhibition.”

Getting back to Wednesday’s event, once again, FIT’s highly anticipated annual gala luncheon (which was sold out and raised approximately $400,000) was hosted by its founding Couture Council chairs Liz Peek, Yaz Hernandez, and Sarah Wolfe, with Honorary Chairs: Harper’s Bazaar’s Editor-in-Chief Glenda Bailey and Nadja Swarovski. (FYI: all invited guests will be mailed a cameo necklace designed by Ruben Toledo with Isabel’s silhouette and signature etched onto an oval Swarovski crystal, specially created by Swarovski for the Couture council). Andre Leon Talley, American Editor-at-Large for Vogue, presented the award, and Simon Doonan, Creative Director for Barneys New York, served as the highly entertaining and irreverent emcee of the event.

Talk about fashion star power. Among the bold face fashion/social luminaries who turned out were Narciso Rodriguez, Cathy Hardwick, Kim Hastreiter, Fabiola Beracasa, FIT President Dr. Joyce Brown, FIT Museum Director Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears, Kelly Bensimon, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Stephen Gan, Julie Gilhart, Linda Fargo, Cathy Horyn, Jeffrey Kalinsky, Derek Lam, Boaz Mazor, Paul Cavaco, Josie Natori, Candy Pratts Price, Arnold Scaasi, Peter Som, Dennis Basso, Howard Socol, Stephano Tonchi, Max Vadukul, Michael Vollbracht, Eleanor Ylvisaker, Iris Apfel, Joey Arias, Christine Suppes, Serena Boardman, Sandy Brant, Dawn Brown, and Dr. Patricia Wexler, among others.

Dr. Joyce Brown kicked things off with her welcoming address and enthused, “We are the only museum specializing in the art of fashion”. She also observed that there were “too many of fashion’s brightest lights” in attendance, for her to even begin to mention. Simon Doonan wasted no time in heaping praise on the talented designer, referring to her “magical creativity” and putting her in the same category as “the Balenciagas, Alaias, McCardells, and Charles Jameses of the world”. He couldn’t resist noting that while Isabel was born one year after the Cuban Revolution, “the luncheon we’re enjoying today is incredibly Un Communistic”. He narrated a video montage showing Isabel’s life from the time she was a little girl (she began sewing her own clothes at 9) and concluded, “this girl knows more about fashion than anyone, anywhere”. When he came upon an image of one of her earlier lace creations, he said “everyone is talking about lace but Isabel has been exploring lace forever!” He made mention of the “prescience of her clothes” which he labeled as “astounding” in that even decades old designs could easily “jump off fashion pages today”. “The great thing about working with Ruben and Isabel is that you get both of them”.

Andre Leon Talley took the stage and announced that “Isabel makes clothes women want to wear” and noted that a “childlike wonder defines both Isabel and Ruben”. He admitted telling Isabel, “I want to be like you when I grow up.” (Perhaps someone should tell ALT that he has indeed grown up!). Isabel was gracious and to the point when she accepted her award and said that the most rewarding aspect of being a designer is that “I make a difference; I’m affecting my time.”

Not only was this a glorious affair, which perfectly set the stage for New York Fashion Week, but it was filled with symbolic gestures. Sunflowers (Isabel’s favorite flower) decorated the tables and the menu, (yellow gazpacho followed by Cuban style sea bass with warm mango sauce, coconut rice, and black beans), was Cuban inspired and delicious at that. Joey Arias kicked things off with his rendition of the Billie Holiday song, “You’ve Changed,” dedicated to Isabel. I guess there’s no escaping the word ‘change’ these days, whether it relates to politics, fashion, or life.

Oh, and by the way, speaking of the connection between art and fashion (which is by definition, inherent in everything the Toledos do), the winner of a luncheon raffle will have his/her portrait painted by Ruben, and after the meal was over, all guests were invited to take home the laminated white, black, red placemats on the tables (boasting the face of Isabel) which were handpainted by Ruben.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Isabel’s ‘Fans’ appeared first on lookonline.