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Editorial: “Send in the Clowns” by Marilyn Kirschner

Marilyn Kirschner — Mon, 19 Aug 2013 23:29:00 +0000

Fashion is BIG business; among other things, it creates jobs and generates serious revenue. But that doesn’t mean many aspects of it are not utterly absurd such as spending almost $800 on a Lanvin brass necklace with the words Cool, Happy, & Love, spelled out in large letters (forever21.com should be knocking that off any day now); contradictory as in Harper’s Bazaar’s “What to Buy, Keep, Store” list, items that they suggest you ‘store’ are sometimes featured in their
fashion editorials; and plain downright funny. Just as in life, it helps to take things with a grain of salt and have a sense of humor. The same can
certainly be said about fashion — just more so. I find that the older and more seasoned I get, the more things about fashion really amuse me and tickle my funny bone. And I’m hardly alone.

Lanvin Fall 2013 wearing your mood on your neck

One person whose
astute, biting, and often hilarious observations about the industry have helped
parlay him into a sought after host at the most high prolfile events, and
routinely serve as fertile subject matter for his books,is Simon Doonan, the
creative ambassador for Barneys New York. I actually start laughing as soon as I
see the “Good Humor Man” because I always know he will have something
outrageously funny to say. His latest effort, “The Asylum, a collage of couture
reminiscences..and hysteria” will be
released September 3, and knowing Simon, its timing right on the heels of
Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, (which kicks off yet another round of fashion shows:
the ultimate three ring circus), could not possibly have been a devilish
coincidence.

The Asylum: A collage of couture reminiscences…and hysteria
Click here for more info on book and to purchase

While I have not yet read the book, I have laughed out loud just reading the reviews by some of the
industry’s most well respected designers. For example, Marc Jacobs has already
weighed in, saying “The fashion world is – in a word – hysterical! Simon Doonan
is the one man who sees it and tells it like it (absurdly) is.” This, from the celebrated,
cultish designer, a darling of the editors, who always seems to look as though
he’s laughing all the way to the bank and asking: “Gee, what can I drum up and
foist on them now, that they will
invariably eat up and just go crazy over?” I mean really, this is a guy (Marc Jacobs)
who routinely shows up at major events looking as though he’s having the last
laugh, whether he is clad in his boxers and a see through Comme des Garcons
shirt, or his pj’s, and who, one season, uses Lynn Yaeger as his muse, only to
change his mind next time, and channel Twiggy.

By the way, if you want to laugh, this is a sampling of Simon’s more
memorable quotes:

“I don’t want a politician
who’s thinking about fashion for even one millisecond. It’s the same as medical
professionals. The idea of a person in a Comme des Garcons humpback dress giving me a
colonoscopy is just not groovy.”

“When you don the pelt of a
particular animal–snake, beaver, marmoset–the effect on the viewer is dramatic You will instantly and shockingly be perceived as having the same traits
as your chosen varmint. The wearing of moleskin says, “I am soft and
velvety and mysterious and like to hide underground.” A mink coat says, “I’m a
tough cookie. Though I may not have the wherewithal to actually kill you, please
expect to be nipped on a regular basis.” The pelts of predators always give the
impression that you are a man-stealing, window-smashing home wrecker. This also
applies to animal-printed fabric. The message of a leopard-print jumpsuit is
clear, “I am a huntress who delights in eating the offal of her prey.”

“Red is wild. She is
unsettling. She intrigues. Wear red and other women will assume that you are a
predatory vixen who is out to steal their husbands and suck the blood of their
children.”

“Wearing a pair of yellow
shoes does not make you an interesting person, that is of course unless you’ve
just murdered someone in them.”

“The reality is, I wear so
many flowery shirts that when I go into a store or the airport or something,
people often say, ‘Good morning, madam.’ So I thought, maybe I should grow a
goatee, and it actually worked. I haven’t gotten a ‘Good morning, madam’ in
months.”

“The shows this season were full of teen/tween bloggers . . . Luckily, I
have a plan for next season. Since they are all about my height, I am going to
impersonate one of them. I am going to wear a doily on my head (Tavi!) and tell
everyone I am a teen blogger.”

“I got bicep tendonitis last
year from carrying my Goyard man-bag. Can you believe? A fashion injury.” (FYI,
a woman on the street once asked Simon what the SD initials on his Goyard bag
stand for and he deadpanned, “South Dakota!”)

Speaking of wit, wisdom, and
humor as it applies to fashion
reportage, almost nobody has been more adept at this genre than Robin Givhan,
the fashion critic and former fashion correspondent for The Daily Beast
and Newsweek. In 2006,
The ex Washington Post fashion critic was awarded the Pulitzer Prize for
criticism, owing to her “witty, closely observed essays that transform fashion
criticism into cultural criticism.” I’ll never forget her piece about Dick
Cheney’s unfortunately inappropriate choice of clothing for a ceremony at Auschwitz in January, 2005. She described Cheney’s look at the deeply moving
60th anniversary service as “the kind of attire one typically wears to operate a
snow blower.” “Cheney stood out in a sea of black-coated world leaders because
he was wearing an olive drab parka with a fur-trimmed hood,”. Mocking Cheney’s
knit ski cap embroidered with the words “Staff 2001″ and his brown, lace-up
hiking boots, she observed, “The vice president looked like an awkward child
amid the well-dressed adults.”

Similarly, The New York
Times’ Cathy Horyn often deadpans, injecting wit and sarcasm in her reviews and
columns. And of course, the IHT’s Suzy Menkes can always be counted upon to
amusingly put things in their proper perspective. With New York Fashion Week
beginning in just a few weeks, I’m already laughing thinking about the impending
scene this three ring circus has turned into, and it made me think back to a
column Ms. Menkes wrote for “T” in February 2013, “The Circus of Fashion”.

Among her observations:

“Today, the people outside fashion shows are more like peacocks than crows. They
pose and preen, in their multi-patterned dresses, spidery legs balanced on
club-sandwich platform shoes, or in thigh-high boots under sculptured coats
blooming with flat flowers”.

“There is likely to be a
public stir when a group of young Japanese women spot their idol on parade: the
Italian clothes peg Anna Dello Russo. Tall, slim, with a toned and tanned body,
the designer and fashion editor is a walking display for designer goods: The
wider the belt, the shorter and puffier the skirt, the more outré the shoes, the
better. The crowd around her tweets madly: Who is she wearing? Has she changed
her outfit since the last show? When will she wear her own H&M collection?
Who gave her those mile-high shoes?!”

“The fuss around the shows
now seems as important as what goes on inside the carefully guarded tents. It is
as difficult to get in as it always was, when passionate fashion devotees used
to appear stealthily from every corner hoping to sneak in to a Jean Paul
Gaultier collection in the 1980s. But the difference is that now the action is
outside the show, as a figure in a velvet shoulder cape and shorts struts his
stuff, competing for attention with a woman in a big-sleeved blouse and
supertight pants”.

“You can hardly get up the
steps at Lincoln Center, in New York, or walk along the Tuileries Garden path in
Paris because of all the photographers snapping at the poseurs. Cameras point as
wildly at their prey as those original paparazzi in Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita.”
But now subjects are ready and willing to be objects, not so much hunted down by
the paparazzi as gagging for their attention”.

“Something has been lost in
a world where the survival of the gaudiest is a new kind of dress parade.
Perhaps the perfect answer would be to let the public preening go on out front,
while the show moves, stealthily, to a different and secret venue, with the
audience just a group of dedicated pros — dressed head to toe in black, of
course”.

Yes, Fashion Week (or Fashion Month really) has become a spectacle of major
proportions, and it’s not going away any time soon. Based upon what the big
trends are for fall, it’s easy to envision what many of the subjects might wear,
(with varying degrees of success I might add). Let just say that the jump from
runway to reality is not always pretty, and it serves as a reminder of just how
quickly things can go awry: Furs and fur trims (even in 90 degree weather),
leather and pleather biker jackets, tweeds, over the knee boots; piled on gold
chains, etc. Hey wait a minute, didn’t I just write about how some of these very
same things are THE items to buy and wear now?

Just weeks after writing Ready-to-“Ware”, my blog about the 4 “look changers”, I can honestly say I’m already
“over” may of them (well, sort of), and the season hasn’t even started. The
problem is (and has been for awhile now), fashion overkill and “fast fashion”. At
the highest end, before an item has gone mainstream, it looks novel and
appealing. But, by the time it’s been democratically filtered down to Bebe, Zara,
H&M, et. al., the results can be disastrous. Quite frankly, when something
is deemed “in”, perhaps that’s the perfect time to go in the opposite
direction. (FYI, black & white have long been my signature colors, and I have always
loved stripes, so I was kind of ‘ticked off’ when they became so “in” last
season and everyone else followed suit LOL.)

Calvin Klein stretch patent knee high boots Fall 2013

Case in point: I know that I just gushed about over the knee boots, and I
still think they have their place, but lately, and perhaps unsurprisingly, I
have found myself being drawn to the innate smart chicness of knee high boots,
which have not been plastered all over the internet and which are not subject to
the vagaries of the ins and outs of fashion. They just always look great,
period. Conversely, peplums are so “last year”, they are truly “bridge and tunnel”
at this point. That said, when you see an interpretation that looks great, such
as Phoebe Philo’s elongated black leather peplum top, Alexander McQueen’s peplum
biker jacket, or Haider Ackermann’s military inspired peplum jackets, they
hardly look passé.

Peplum Celine Pre Fall 2013

The bottom line is that when
something is ill fitting, poorly made, inappropriate, etc., it doesn’t matter
that it is “in”, it’s just looks plain bad. And if something is good, it’s
always good, regardless of whether or not it’s on the hit list of magazine
editors, bloggers, and retailers. This always brings me back to something
Geoffrey Beene once said: “Don’t ask me what’s new…ask me what’s
good!” Something to keep in mind as we head into yet another fashion
cycle.

– Marilyn Kirschner

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“Dreaming in Black & White” – by Marilyn Kirschner

Marilyn Kirschner — Thu, 20 Sep 2012 10:45:00 +0000

An article that ran in The New York Times Thursday Style section, July 25, 2012, “A decision Unshaded by Doubts”, by Katharine P. Jose, grabbed my attention. It chronicled the writer’s personal decision to fore go all colors and wear only black & white.

It was the fall of 2008, following the death of her father after a long illness, and she immediately thought, “From now on I think I’m going to wear black & white, only.” The appeal was simple: “It represents something: the sharp contrasts that can’t be sharper, the simplicity of it”. She said that she came to “experience this wardrobe restriction as a pleasant and very manageable state of affairs” and noted, “I have never looked back at colors, and I am never tempted”. “I sort of like seeing my closet almost entirely monochrome; it’s peaceful.”

I completely identified with what she said and agreed with her observations. I too have been drawn to black & white, and have always preferred this duality to all others. Plus, it allows one to make endless combinations, and even get dressed in the dark, as everything goes with everything. It’s so simple, so easy, and all but foolproof (there’s something to be said about these qualities, given our chaotic world and our chaotic lives).

I have found myself many times toying with idea of editing my closet and shopping habits accordingly. Theoretically, I loved the challenge it represented but wondered if I could actually show such self discipline and restraint ( I’d quickly think of how much I would miss navy, khaki, red, the glorious colors of the rainbow, and of course, my vintage Pucci’s, which I periodically pull out from time to time).

Then Marc Jacobs unveiled his spring 2013 collection during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, and it was almost an entire study in black & white. It looked so good, so fresh, so modern, so right, and so appealing, I immediately wanted to follow suit. Actually, I guess you can say I became obsessed.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 Collection

Black & white was also the star on many other highly influential runways, including Calvin Klein, Chado Ralph Rucci, Narcisco Rodriguez, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Ohne Titel, and Rag & Bone, and in some cases, it was enlivened with flashes of strong color, which looked great as well. It has been said that “Color is what makes black & white, BLACK AND WHITE”, and it’s so true. There’s also no question that applying this trick makes sticking to the formula much easier, and more realistic.

Even Ms. Jose admitted that she made some concessions to her pared down palette. Outerwear and accessories “were exempted” (in 2007 she bought a red Built by Wendy red wool coat that she loves). For sentimental reasons, as well as for sheer practicality, she uses old t-shirts and dips into her extensive scarf collection, (both of which she “could not part with”), and sometimes adds gray, denim, and silver to the mix.

J.Crew Tipped Peacoat in antique white and black $298

The beauty of black & white, is that it is completely democratic, readily available at every price point, and it shows up in every conceivable category, from ready-to-wear and accessories to items for the home. These are a few examples, (and they don’t all break the bank): J.Crew’s tipped Pea coat in antique white with black, $298, www.jcrew.com ; Izola’s Paris shower curtain ($18.75), www.amazon.com ; MacKenzie-Childs’ iconic Courtly Check Enamelware ($65 – $495), www.mackenzie-childs.com ; the vintage Chanel tray table in black with white, www.1stdibs.com (price upon request);

Black & white ceramic cocktail ring

black & white custom drapes with chevon stripes ($165), a white vase with bulls-eye black rings ($32), chunky knitted triple black & white infinity scarf ($65), 1.9 inch black & white ceramic cocktail ring, ($28), black & white zebra printed ceramic butter dish ($29,) and checkerboard dinner plates, ($35), all available on www.etsy.com ; and Marimekko’s black & white striped Tasaraita Mug ($22), www.marimekko.com .

Marimekko’s iconic Kivet patterned bedding

If you so desire, you can not only wear it, eat on it, sit on it, put butter on it, and live with it in every room of your house, you can also literally dream in black & white, thanks to Marimekko’s iconic Kivet and Kaivo patterned duvets and bed linens ($39.95- $140), available at www.marimekko.com and www.bedbathandbeyond.com .

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“All Buttoned Up”

Ernest — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 10:10:00 +0000

1990’s Gemma Kahng jacket with jeweled flower buttons

I always encourage women to hold onto as many of their favorite, great pieces (clothes, accessories) as possible; even if they are not deemed to be the height of chic, or “in” at that moment. I find it laughable when so called fashion experts extol their customers to dump anything they haven’t worn for 6 months. Fashion is cyclical, everything comes back eventually, and, when it’s great it’s always great. This was brought into focus just recently.

Gemma Kahng jacket circa 1991

Case in point: Gemma Kahng’s signature jackets from her first collections in the early 90’s. It was a time in fashion that was all about the power suit, and Gemma’s interpretations had a “chic sense of humor” in the words of Elle Magazine’s Joe Zee. They were marked by fitted shapes, unabashed military formality, defined shoulders, and gloriously over-the-top, jewelry-like buttons. Sold in the best stores, they were featured prominently on the pages and covers of all the major fashion magazines, including Harper’s Bazaar (I was her editor). FYI, this 90’s design wunderkind is making a major comeback with the help of Joe Zee. Click on to http://www.gemmakahng.com/ to see what she is up to.

My Gemma Kahng jacket with flower like buttons

Luckily, I had purchased and subsequently collected some of Gemma’s signature jackets. Even when the pendulum would swing back to pared down minimalism (a look which is always valid and which I embrace), I refused to part with these decorative pieces for many reasons. Whenever I wore one, I would get many compliments and just seeing them in my closet would put an instant smile on my face. And while they might not always be part of my daily uniform, special pieces like these are hard to find. And yes, they are always desirable.

Schiaparelli’s ornate jackets

Flash back to the beginning of May and the press preview for Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (http://www.metmuseum.org/ ) . I took note of one entire section (‘Waist Up, Waist Down’) which featured several of Schiap’s iconic, embellished, evening jackets, many of which were decorated with pronounced buttons. They brought to mind my Gemma Kahng stash; I thought Aha! It was time to pull them out again!

Then I read Lynn Yaeger’s article in the August issue of Vogue, “Twinkle Twinkle”, during the course of which the writer discusses the trend towards jeweled buttons, a recent fixation of designers like Marc Jacobs, who used “buttons the size of brooches” on jackets and coats for his most recent fall 2012 Louis Vuitton collection. The article is illustrated by several pictures of highly decorative buttons from Louis Vuitton, Thakoon, Chanel, Moschino, Oscar de la Renta, and Louis Vuitton’s fall collections. I couldn’t contain my delight, nor was I in the least bit surprised to see a picture (taken from Vogue 1991), of the fabulous Yasmeen Ghauri, wearing Gemma Kahng’s pink and green jacket with over-sized and pink and gold flower-like buttons. It’s sitting in my closet and is the exemplary piece.

Jewel like buttons Louis Vuitton Fall 2012

Ms. Yaeger questioned whether or not they should be worn by women over a certain age (“Does the bedazzled button tarnish your youth?” she asked). Of course, Ms. Yaeger basically gave her readers good reason to embrace the trend. She described the embellished buttons as “playful costume jewelry, a punctuation mark to a classic silhouette”. She quoted Marc Jacobs, who observed, “The over-sized proportion and Biba-style flower motif (of his versions) kept them looking young and fresh”. Lynn noted that Karl Lagerfeld (a modern thinker if ever there was one), who had the task of rethinking Chanel’s signature jeweled buttons when he took over as the head designer decades ago, used diamante buttons to “cheer up” his gray flannel pieces for fall 2012 (“I love them on jeans and places where we don’t expect them. That keeps them going” he explained).

What are my thoughts on this matter? I think that jeweled buttons can be considered a very practical, built-in accessory. More importantly, women should stop being so obsessed with trying to look “younger” and focus on looking as good as possible and developing a signature and individual look that compliments them. I’m a firm believer than you can wear anything if you know how to wear it to its best effect. But perhaps the sentiment I agree with most, is when hip young British designer Erdem Moralioglu admitted to Ms. Yaeger that the charm in these fancy, jeweled buttons, lies in the “wrong-rightness of it”. Well said. When something is SO wrong, it can be SO deliciously right. It’s that whole, good taste/bad taste debate, or as Diana Vreeland once said, “Bad taste is better than no taste”. So, the next time you put on a jacket or coat with dowager like, over-the-top, embellished buttons, and your first thought is, “Uh uh” — maybe you should take a better look and say, “YES!”

By the way, I’m sure I don’t have to point out that you don’t need to go out and buy new clothes featuring large decorated buttons; you can easily buy separate buttons and replace the boring and dull ones on your favorite jackets and coats (just be sure to hold on to the originals, just in case you change you mind). Some of my favorite places to search are M&J Trim, (http://www.mjtrim.com/ , 1008 Sixth Avenue, between 37th and 38th Streets, 1 800 9 MJTRIM), and the legendary Tender Buttons shop, 143 East 62nd Street, 212 758 7004, http://www.tenderbuttons-nyc.com/ . And naturally, you can always find distinctive, vintage buttons on EBay.

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Let’s “Face” It – by Marilyn Kirschner

Marilyn Kirschner — Wed, 25 Jul 2012 13:37:00 +0000

Jil Sander Picasso inspired intarsia sweater Spring 2012
(Photo: firstView.com)

I cannot recall at what point in my life I began to obsess over expressive, Picasso like faces. Though it makes perfect sense since I have long been a fan of Pablo Picasso’s abstract, Cubist work: specifically, his portraits. About the only thing I love more than fashion, is art. Especially, the merging of art and fashion. So it was not surprising, I took note when Raf Simons sent out a group of intarsia sweaters for spring 2012 which were emblazoned with Picasso inspired faces.

Katy Perry wearing Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s Obama Dress, Spring 2008
(Photo: Courtesy WireImage)

He’s not the first designer to put pronounced faces on clothing and he won’t be the last. During the course of his approximately 45 year career, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (best known for his designs which mix pop culture, bright colors, and humor), has used famous faces to decorate his designs: everyone from Mickey Mouse (Spring 2012) to President Obama (Spring 2008).

Chado Ralph Rucci Buddha Dress Fall 2009
(Photo: Style.com)

Ralph Rucci (http://www.ralphrucci.com/ ) is not only a world class, award winning fashion designer, but an accomplished artist in his own right. His work is inspired by famed artists like Cy Twombly, Franz Kline, and Louise Nevelson among others. His global aesthetic, passion for collecting treasures from around the world, exotic world travels, and appreciation of diverse world cultures (specifically far Eastern cultures and Japanese symbolism), routinely find there way onto the surfaces of his designs. This was exemplified by several gowns from fall 2009, which were screen printed with images of the Buddha, (including one of his blown up face, which all but covered the entire surface of the dress).

Lisa Perry’s Roy Lichtenstein “No Thank You Dress”

Lisa Perry (http://www.lisaperrystyle.com/ ), is not only an avid art collector, but a fashion designer (FYI, she is the wife of Richard Perry, the hedge-fund tycoon who recently took a majority stake in Barneys New York). She has successfully combined her clean lined, space age, 60’s aesthetic, with iconic pop art, as exemplified by her Limited Edition Artistic Collections which have featured the wearable art of Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons and Roy Lichtenstein. One of my favorite products is the eye popping Roy Lichtenstein “No Thank You” dress, $2000. Her flagship is located at 976 Madison Avenue, tel: 212 431 7467. She also has a store in Sag Harbor, located at 63 Main Street, 631 725-7467.

Marc by Marc Jacobs top Resort 2013
(Photo: firstView.com)

For resort 2013, Marc Jacobs included several sweaters emblazoned with his own face. But let’s “face” it, not everyone may want to wear an item of clothing emblazoned with the likeness of another person (no matter how attractive, talented, iconic, important, or legendary he or she may be). You can always satisfy your urge (should you have one) for incorporating faces into your life via products for the home.

Vintage Desimone mug from 1965

Giovanni De Simone, who passed away in 1980, was one the greatest Italian ceramic artist who studied under Pablo Picasso. I began buying and collecting colorful Desimone pottery: mugs, espresso cups, plates (and love that no two are alike). His hand painted artistry of true Majolica pieces are famous and now produced by his daughters Susanna and Margherita De Simone. I prefer the vintage versions, especially the ones from dated 1965, and if you keep looking, you can get lucky and find them on EBay.

Carrol Boyes plates

Along those same lines, on a recent Soho jaunt, I was immediately drawn to the window display at Carrol Boyes, 126 Prince Street, 212 334 3556, http://www.carrolboyes.com/ . It featured white porcelain bowls, mugs, and side plates (ranging in price from $20 – $90) decorated with black line drawings of quirky, Picasso esque, faces. It turns out that these drawings are Ms. Boyes’s personal renditions, (attesting to her passion for the human body), that have been accumulated in her archived sketchbooks. It was her daughters who encouraged her to make the sketches public.

Fornasetti Theme 2526 Variations decorative plate

Piero Fornasetti, was an Italian painter, sculptor, interior decorator and engraver. He created more than 11,000 items, many featuring the face of a woman, operatic soprano Lina Cavalieri, as a motif. Fornasetti found her face in a 19th century magazine. “What inspired me to create more than 500 variations on the face of a woman?” asks Italian designer, Piero Fornasetti of himself. “I don’t know,” he admits, “I began to make them and I never stopped.” The “Tema e Variazioni” (theme and variation) plate series based on Cavalieri’s face numbered more than 350. Other common features in his work include heavy use of black & white, the sun and time. His style is reminiscent of Greek and Roman architecture, from which he was heavily influenced.

Fornasetti Eclessi de Luna Pillow

His son, Barnaba Fornasetti, continues to design in his father’s name and the company’s signature face adorned products are readily available at Barneys New York (http://www.barneys.com/ ). Among the items that have recently caught my eye: the Eclessi de Luna Pillow, $160; the Viso bookends, $270, an assortment of Theme & Variations Decorative Plates, $185, and a Theme & Variations Umbrella $260 (a distinctive way to stay dry if ever there was one)

Last, but not least (thought certainly least expensive), are the malleable Picasso Head Morph Notepads, available at http://www.thelibraryshop.org/ , $15.

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One for the Ages

Marilyn Kirschner — Mon, 23 Jul 2012 08:41:00 +0000

It Never Gets Old

Veruschka wearing Pucci in the 60s

There are many things that improve with age. Wine, cheese, the Statue of Liberty, and Michelangelo’s David. And us! Just consider the ageless nonagenarian Iris Apfel, the amazing and inspiring subjects spotlighted on Ari Cohen’s http://www.advancedstyle.blogspot.com/ , the 60+ fashion stars of the new Lanvin Fall 2012 campaign, and the “Wonder Women from 28 to 101” profiled in the August issue of Vogue which is their annual Age Issue.

82 year old Jacquie Tajah Murdock in Lanvin’s Fall/Winter 2012 Campaign

They say “Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery”, and gazillions of products (including those that are fashion related), have been imitated, though not necessarily duplicated. But I’d venture to say that most of us ‘sage’ fashion insiders, who have seemingly been around for ions and have “seen it all”, would agree that there are simply those things that cannot be improved upon (New and improved? Not so fast!) They can be tweaked, given endless bells & whistles, and made a whole lot fancier. But fancier does not make it better. Sometimes, it’s the stripped down, bare bones simplicity, the honest authenticity of the original, that makes it so chic and appealing. And sometimes, (though not always), it’s the more palatable price tag. Regardless, these are some examples that illustrate:

Marilyn’s favorite vintage Pucci blouse

Vintage Pucci: Emilio Pucci’s iconic prints are all time classics – wearable art – and will always be a wonderful addition to any wardrobe (whether it takes the form of a scarf, a jersey dress, a silk or cotton blouse, a velvet jacket, etc.) And once again, in my opinion, the patterns and colors found in the pieces from the 60’s and 70’s are more distinctive than anything currently out there today, and far more preferable (stains and all). There is something about the vintage patterns and colors, that cannot seem to be duplicated these days.

The LL Bean Canvas Boat and Tote Bag: There have been so many versions of a traditional canvas tote bag through the years (they’ve even been made for evening in sequins, gold, etc.), but the original, made in Maine for over 65 years and available at www.llbean.com, cannot be beat (nor can the price: $20.95 – $38.95). They are tested to hold over 500 pounds, made of heavy duty 24 oz. cotton canvas combined with the company’s signature double layer base and handles, they feature a reinforced flat canvas bottom and overlapped seams double-stitched with nylon so that they won’t rot or break. They are basically indestructable. You can have them personalized, they are available in 10 colors ( including red, black, navy, and a vivid royal which is my favorite), and come in 4 sizes: from Small to Extra Large.

The Aigle Rubber Riding Boot: The marketplace is literally ‘flooded’ with rubber rain boots in every color under the sun, with every heel height, in every style imaginable, with a range of decorations and superflous additions. But the all time chicest, are still the traditional Aigle Rubber Riding Boots, www.aigle.com. Aigle is No. 1 worldwide for the manufacture of high quality hunting boots (Parcours model) and horseback riding boots (Ecuyer model) as well as a European leader for nautical boots (Glenan, Glenan ISO, Skey, Bora and Maramu models are topsellers).The Ecuyer model is the real deal and looks more like leather than rubber. In addition, the tall shaft height and the narrowness of the fit (they are meant to really hug the calf), make these exceptionally flattering. They are available at Barneys.com, $195, and at J.Crew (http://www.jcrew.com/ ), which is currently selling little girls’ sizes.

The Saint James Breton Striped T-Shirt: The striped 3/4 sleeve bateau neck top is a unisex classic that completely stands the test of time, and almost nothing is as ubiquitous, especially in the summer (it can be considered a ‘neutral’ that really goes with everything). When you see images of the late Audrey Hepburn wearing hers with capris and ballet flats, it is still a look that cannot be improved upon. And nobody makes them better than the Saint James Company, (http://www.saintjames-usa.com/ ), established in Lower Normandy in 1889.

Originally intended for deep sea fishermen, then adopted by known seafarers, and amateur yachtsmen, as well as their pure cotton “seashore” lines (comprised of striped tees in a range of styles and colors), are sold around the world. In New York, there is a Saint James boutique located at 1045 Madison Avenue, 212 535 1470. The Saint James Galathee Tee, $90, is available at http://www.j.crew.com/

The Patterned Hermes Silk Scarf: There are patterned silk scarves, and then there are Hermes patterned silk scarves. How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. They can be worn tied around the neck, tied around the handle of a bag, tied around the head to make a turban, or used to chicly camouflage a cast (remember Sigourney Weave in the move, ‘9 to 5’?). They can also be framed. While there are millions of patterned silk scarves in the market place (many at lower prices than the original), the ones at Hermes (the company was founded in 1837), stand out because of the saturated colors, the highly distinctive prints, and the luxurious, heavy silk twill which gives it a lot of body. (And true to form, I had a fondness for vintage Hermes scarves and find that the ones I’ve collected, are still better than anything out there today).

Burberry Fall Winter 2012 (photo: vogue.com)

A Burberry Trench Coat: This iconic 156 year-old global brand with a distinctly British attitude knows a thing or two about inclement weather. Their trench coats for men and women are still the gold standard, and though their original classic bare bones style is hard to improve upon, I have to admit that Christopher Bailey’s updated incarnations are always “right on the money”.

-Marilyn Kirschner

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Marilyn Kirschner in Bill Cunningham’s Column

Ernest — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 13:55:00 +0000

We have lost count how many times our editor Marilyn has appeared in one of Bill’s columns. Bill has always treated her as one of his “muses”.

-Ernest Schmatolla

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The Golden Globe Awards: Two Views

Marilyn Kirschner — Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:07:00 +0000

Marilyn Kirschner: Monday Morning Quarterback
What is the world coming to? What can we count on when even one’s astrological sign (the one you’ve become associated with for decades), has literally changed overnight? Well, thankfully, there are some things that will never change: our ongoing fascination with the Red Carpet and that age old question: “Who will wear what”? It’s almost as though “Who will win what?” is secondary.

But let’s face it, the phrase, Red Carpet Fashion is an oxymoron and I have come to expect nothing more than a parade of highly predicable, formulaic, ‘paint by numbers’ choices, (some which oft times seem to be completely disconnected from the wearer), thanks to the stylists, since let’s face it, in rare cases only, is it the star herself who has conceived of, picked out, or paid for her outfit from head-to-toe.

Olivia Wilde

And considering that these highly paid celebs have the wherewithal, the access, and of course, the means, to insure they have the best of the best, it makes the end result of so much time and effort seem to be even more of a letdown. It also boggles the mind how so few stars truly get it right (Cate Blanchett and Natalie Portman quickly come to mind). Or wrong (which would at least be refreshing and interesting). But isn’t it all so subjective anyway?

Tilda Swinton

While I do think Julia Roberts looked gorgeous years ago, when she picked up her Oscar for Best Actress wearing that chic vintage black and white Valentino gown, I actually think she outdid herself at last year’s Golden Globes, clad in a long sleeved v neck short black chemise dress, simple high heeled pumps, accessorized by an eye-catching vintage long chunky gold pendant necklace (the dress and necklace were purchased at a vintage store in Manhattan and if I remember correctly, I believe the dress was YSL and she paid about $1000 for it. But that is completely beside the point because there is always too much emphasis placed on wearing well known labels instead of concentrating on just plain fabulous frocks). It completely suited her style, it exuded an unfussy, modern glamour, it played to her strengths (showing off her gorgeous gams), and she picked it out and paid for it herself. Interestingly, several self appointed ‘experts’ criticized her for looking “underdressed”, more suited to going out to dinner than to an awards ceremony. Ah, what do they know? In any case, everyone is entitled to their opinion. It’s not brain surgery, if you know what I mean.

Anne Hathaway

Still, isn’t it fun to be a Monday morning quarterback, second guess, and sit in judgment? By the way, you can say that was literally the case last evening, since the New York Jets were playing against the New England Patriots just as the Red Carpet arrivals were getting underway, and I, for one, kept turning the station back and forth as I’m certain was the case in many other households.

Natalie Portman

So, who got it right? While I’ll admit I’ve preferred Natalie Portman’s past Red Carpet choices, she nonetheless glowed and looked beautiful in her pale and strapless flower appliquéd Viktor & Rolf, and it ‘worked’ considering her pregnancy; the red one shouldered Lanvin chosen by Julianne Moore may not have been the most flattering dress of all time, but it was certainly a bold fashion choice in terms of color and silhouette and was hardly a safe choice; Claire Danes’ salmon colored Calvin Klein Collection halter dress suited her perfectly and looked modern and chic; Catherine Zeta-Jones and Angelina Jolie looked every inch the movie stars they are in their green gowns (by Monique Lhuillier and Versace Atelier respectively) as did Anne Hathaway in Armani Prive (fyi: I especially liked the long sleeves and covered up elegance of both the Lhuillier and Armani); 14 year old Hailee Steinfeld looked drop dead gorgeous and very grown up (but thankfully, not too much so) in an ivory Prabal Gurung; Olivia Wilde’s strapless and glittery Marchesa gown was quite an entrance maker, capitalizing on the ‘of the moment’ ballet theme going on these days, with a tulle skirt so full it almost took up the entire stage; and you can always count on Tilda Swinton to take risks and go her own way an- instead of chosing a typical boring gown, she opted for the chicest thing in the world – a perfectly crisp white cotton shirt and long vanilla skirt, courtesy Jil Sander. By the way, Fashion ‘It Girl’ Alexa Chung, who was actually at work last evening, interviewing stars on the red carpet for NBC, looked glamorous and youthful, in her covered up, long sleeved red chiffon gown (designer unknown).

Helena Bonham Carter

Disappointments (there were too many prom dresses, out of control cascading ruffles, etc. to mention) include Heidi Klum in a droopy printed Marc Jacobs from spring 2011 (proving that runway does not always translate onto the red carpet), Sandra Bullock in a rather unflattering and frumpy Jenny Packham, Nicole Kidman in pale long Prada (sorry- she could have done so much better!!!), J.Lo in a white Zuhair Murad which looked a tad too much like a wedding dress (actually, it was more like ‘Mother of the Bride’ for my taste), Halle Berry in black Nina Ricci (she is so gorgeous it ‘hurts’ and doesn’t need to wear something that so closely resembles underwear), Christina Aguilera in Zuhair Murad mermaid black lace, and Tina Fey who almost never gets it right and didn’t this time in her ill chosen L’Wren Scott. And truly a class by herself is Helena Bonham Carter, wearing a Vivienne Westwood dress accessorized with purposely mismatched pumps and her signature birds nest, piled up hair. Yikes. Well, you have to hand it to her: at least she didn’t look like anyone else!

– Marilyn Kirschner
(Photo Credits: Courtesy Golden Globes except for Tilda Swinton: Style.com)

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Fashion Group International’s 27th Annual Night of Stars: “The Globalists”

Marilyn Kirschner — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 01:30:00 +0000

Click here to see a high resolution photo of the venue

OMG! Just when you think the Fashion Group International may have finally run out of superstars and iconic figures to honor for their annual Night of Stars Gala (after all, they’ve been finding new and worthy names for the last 27 years), they come up with yet another deserving and celebrated list.

Marisa Berenson & Pierre Cardin (All photos: Randy Brooke for Lookonline.com)

This year, they used “The Globalists” as their overall umbrella, giving new meaning to global warming. And not just because it was so unseasonably warm and balmy outside, but because inside Cipriani Wall Street, the invited guests were basking in the warm glow of super stars, icons, and legends from the worlds of fashion, beauty, entertainment, and architecture. Let’s face it, you don’t get more iconic than the ageless Pierre Cardin who was given his Board of Directors Legend Award by the glorious and also ageless Marisa Berenson. The très magnfique iconic model looked dazzling in a fabulous architectural dress, one of many of the famed designer’s creations that will be presented at a formal runway show at Milk Studio tonight.

Jennifer Connelly & Nicolas Ghesquiere

And then there was Nicolas Ghesquiere, one of the fashion world’s most revered and respected designers, who was awarded his Superstar Award by the gorgeous Academy Award winning Jennifer Connelly, a muse and loyal customer; beauty ‘legend’ Frederic Fekkai was awarded his Beauty Award by Calvin Klein; ‘Brand Visionary’ Diego Della Valle had dear friend Richard Gere, took the stage to do the honors – this was also one of the more entertaining moments of the night; Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza and Albert Kriemler for Akris were the Star Honorees for Fashion – presenters were Anna Wintour & Bee Shaffer in the case of the former, Stefano Tonchi for the latter;

Lookonline editor Marilyn Kirschner

The Entertainment Award went to Janie Bryant (Presenter – Simon Kneen); the Architecture Award went to Rafael And Diana Vinoly (Presenters – Calvin Tsao & China Machado); Corporate Leadership Award was presented by Anna Sui to Glen Senk for Urban Oufitters; the Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Award was handed to Nina Garcia by Michael Kors; and Mayor Michael Bloomberg was there to give his dear friend Evelyn Lauder, the Humanitarian Award.

China Machado

By the way, speaking of ageless, in an industry (actually, I should say industries: both fashion and entertainment), where it’s seemingly all about the young (being young, staying young, looking young), it was interestingly a night which proved that many things (and many people) do get better with age and being 70, 80, or 90 hardly means it’s all over. At 88, Pierre Cardin was the ‘coolest’ guy in the room and China Machado, the exotic 60’s supermodel and Avedon muse, turned Harper’s Bazaar Senior Fashion Editor (whom I worked with at Harper’s Bazaar in the 70’s), looked positively radiant.

FGI’s Margaret Hayes

FGI President Margaret Hayes began by lauding the “12 extraordinary talents – Globalists in fashion beauty and architecture – who inspire us to act globally”. Then the always amusing and unique Simon Doonan took the stage and asked, “What is a globalist”? “I have no idea” he jokingly answered but said that because they are all in the media spotlight, they could all use a personal mantra to help them ‘cope’. Inexplicably, he decided to ‘award’ each honoree his or her own personal mantra, inspired by the Jersey Shore nicknames: Nicolas Guesquiere – the Prince of Paramus; Albert Kriemler – Tan Jovi; Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough – The Condition; Rafael Vinoly – Bones; Diana Vinoly – The Body; Frederic Fekkai – The Operation; Diego Della Valle- The Tricep; Janie Bryant- The Opportunity; Evelyn Lauder – Kookie, Pierre Cardin – The Impact; Nina Garcia – The Paris Hilton of Trenton.

Linda Fargo fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman

After dinner and dessert was served, the awards began. These are some highlights of what followed:

Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour

– Anna Wintour on the team of Proenza Schouler: “You make a bag everyone knows yet everyone wants”. “You may be sitting at the ‘grown-up’ table but you are still the sweet young talented kids we first met” (daughter Bee enthused, “your designs are instantly cool”.)

– Mayor Bloomberg telling the assembled crowd that Evelyn Lauder, a member of FGI for 20 years who “led the charge in the war against cancer” and has raised about “35 million – this past year alone”, is “impossible to say no to – don’t even try”.

– Diana Vinoly on her rather hard to miss green layered chiffon Issey Miyake dress: “To mix fashion and architecture, I chose a “building of a dress”.

– Richard Gere talking about what a fabulous, warm person and good friend Diego Della Valle is, saying it was a “very special evening” and then joking “I think I just bought 26% of Saks tonight- the check’s in the mail.” “I don’t know about fashion but thanks to Calvin Klein I know about black t shirts and white underwear. And I know about shoes. Diego gave me a pair of brown suede shoes (with those little nubs on the bottom) and I nursed them for 10 years. I agreed to present him with this award tonight if he promised to give me another pair of shoes. Hopefully they will last at least 10 years.”

Evelyn Lauder

– Marisa Berenson telling the assembled guests that it was an honor to celebrate “60 years of an amazing and immense career and life.” “Pierre Cardin has always said that taste is not enough – you have to be touched by grace and have style”. He has no boundaries or limitations. His name radiates globally on everything. His passion is limitless. He is a wise man and completely free man. He has always made the most of everything.” (For his part, Pierre Cardin took to the stage speaking quickly and only in French).

Calvin Klein

– Calvin Klein describing Frederic Fekkai as a “rare combination of talent and charisma”, citing his “good looks, and “that sexy accent”. “He had a very specific vision for his business and he made it happen. No one has a more stellar clientele. He’s like Warren Beatty but with a better accent” (that got the most laughs of the night). He spoke of the “complete and utter magic of his talent” – the ability to “make women look amazing” and quoted him as saying “When I run my hands thru a woman’s hair, I have a sense of who she should be.”

– Frederic Fekkai admitted that he wouldn’t “be here without Calvin Klein”, who suggested to Ira Neimark many years ago that he open a Frederic Fekkai boutique at Bergdorf Goodman.

– Michael Kors on Nina Garcia: “Style has been a part of Nina’s life since day 1. Thanks to four best selling style guides and Project Runway, she has “rewritten what a style editor’s role should be”.

– Jennifer Connelly: “I LOVE Nicholas Guesquiere. His designs are timelessly classic and quintessentially modern. He’s a rare and special creature; fun and funny, and just a little bit wicked. He is brave, a perfectionist, and an artist.”

– Nicolas Guesquiere: “I am touched by your words. It’s a great celebration tonight and it’s always great to celebrate fashion. I have the highest respect for the past recipients. Cristobal Balenciaga brought a radical point of view and 80 years later, I am happy to keep this dream alive.”

Tory Burch

At the end, Simon Doonan took the stage and said that he left out Margaret Hayes’ personal mantra: “Last Call”. “Thanks for coming and go home.” And everyone did, with a wonderful gift bag in tow.

-Marilyn Kirschner

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT:
Diane Clehane
Madeline Communications
203.681.2118

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