Diane Von Furstenberg has traditionally held the 5p.m. Sunday timeslot during New York Fashion Week. For the last few years she has held her show at Spring Studios, and then hosted an apres show celebration at her Meatpacking headquarters. This year, in an effort to change things up, she decided to forego the formal runway show in favor of something a bit more fun and celebratory at the West 14th Street space. But it was hardly the intimate scene one would have imagined based on reports that the presentation would enable a “select group of guests” to “filter in and out for over one hour”, and have a chance to chat with Diane and the models, and ask them questions.

Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

To the contrary, it was fashion gridlock both inside and out with black town cars and Ubers lined in the street, it was rather chaotic at first with guests waiting to get in the store (many didn’t think they would make it inside). Wisely, the waiting was done indoors, rather than outside in the record breaking frigid air. To be sure, it was a highly spirited and jam packed happening; the clothes, (signature DVF all the way: 70’s inspired, colorful, printed, patterned and covering the gamut from day to evening) were almost beside the point.

Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

And while there were plenty of trousers and shorts, there were a variety of dresses, including the famous wrap. Lest you forget that THE DRESS put Diane on the map, there was a hard to miss enormous neon sign with the words, “Feel like a woman; wear a dress” which was part of the decoration.

Photo: Marilyn Kirschner

There were 5 different vignettes set up on two floors of her sprawling space. On the first floor, models walked in and out of closets at fast pace, wearing a variety of looks, and clustered around on desks in an ‘office’ wearing work geared ensembles (with the pulsating soundtrack, “She Works Hard for the Money” in the background). Up the steep staircase to the second floor is where the party really began. Diane and her favorite super models (Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Haddad, Jourdan Dunn, Irina Shayk), bedecked in slithery disco perfect gowns, danced exuberantly to the strains of Sister Sledge’s “We are Family” (the CFDA Chairman always likes to refer to fashion as her “family”) and they playfully lounged around on a lip shaped red sofa before an audience that had gathered to take photos. Upon spotting Carine Roitfeld, Diane immediately plucked her from the crowd, and had her join them in the fun.

Photo: Vogue.com

The eclectic group in attendance included Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Linda Fargo, Fran Lebowitz, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Cameron Silver, Robbi Myers, Cindi Leive, Stefano Tonchi, Derek Blasberg, Carlos Souza, Anh Duong. Actually, it seems the only person not there last night was  American Media Mogul Barry Diller to whom Diane has been married since 2001. Barry and Diane famously live in separate residences (she lives in an apartment above her headquarters and Barry keeps an apartment in the Carlyle Hotel). Since yesterday was Valentine’s Day, it’s worth noting perhaps that is the secret to a happy marriage.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post New York Fashion Week Notes appeared first on lookonline.

With the arrival of New York Fashion Week, it may appear that everything is happening here, on the East Coast, but there were some moments when it was all about the ‘West’. A few nights ago, Hedi Slimane staged his Fall 2016 Menswear collection on the West Coast before a star studded crowd (the setting was the Palladium Concert Hall in Los Angeles to be exact). He included Part 1 of his women’s line (Part 2 will be shown in Paris). The strong showing was an homage to the 50th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche collection. It featured belted waists and midi lengths (I was glad to see the little girl minis had finally disappeared).

Yeezy Photo: Vogue.com

Then there was Kanye West’s Yeezy Season 3 fashion show and album (‘The Life of Pablo’) debut. The bona fide ‘happening’ (and brilliant marketing ploy) which took place before a crowd of about 18,000 (mainly fans) at Madison Square Garden yesterday was undeniably a first, and had all the publicity and fanfare one would expect whenever the names West and Kardashian are involved.

Yeezy Ochre shearling jacket (Photo: Vogue.com)

Once again, the collection for men and women had a cool, hip, streetwise edge, and undeniably, there were some great pieces. Specifically, the artful graphic body hugging knitwear (a nod to Pablo Picasso?), the oversized outerwear, and the high collared, cropped sculptural, shearling jacket (which might come in handy in the next few icy cold days). My favorite was the one in ochre, shown over a matching bodysuit.

But the great thing about fashion is that there’s not just one way to view it; there are many options, and different, often conflicting ideas and voices. The bottom line is that one does not negate the other. On Wednesday evening, two legendary Upper East Side institutions served as fitting, proper, and wonderfully civilized venues for fashion presentations. I guess you could say that they were the polar opposites of, say, Yeezy.

Josie Natori (Photo: Marilyn Kirschner)

Doubles, the venerable private club located downstairs in the Sherry Netherland Hotel, is the bastion of the Old Guard; a place where trends don’t matter and traditions still carry weight. Designer Josie Natori, who has been a member for 40 years, since its inception in 1976, decided it was the perfect place to show her Fall 2016 collection. This is hard to argue with given that the 22 piece lineup, played out primarily in black with touches of marigold, cobalt, and sandstone (and shown installation style on models), is unapologetically elegant, dressed up, and evening oriented (regardless of the fact that Ms. Natori is intent on “blurring the lines between day and eveningwear”).

Guests including Linda Fargo, Bobbi Queen, Etta Froio, Margaret Hayes, Alina Cho, and Nicole Fishelis had a chance to take in the 5 distinctive tableaus that were set up in the atmospheric rooms, while enjoying a glass of Prosecco and an hors d’oeuvres or two. By the way, when I asked Ms. Fishelis, Macy’s Group Vice President/Fashion Director Global Forecasting, what she is most looking forward to seeing in the next week, she said that in addition to the new young stars (such as Joseph Altuzarra and Prabal Gurung), it would have to be “the Big 4” (American legends): Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren, each of whom are featured prominently in Macy’s stores nationwide and perform exceptionally well.

Josie Natori (Photo: Marilyn Kirschner)

The bustier tunics, ankle pants, trousers, halter column gowns, fit and flare cocktail dresses, boleros with matching obi’s, and belted toppers came by way of crepe, duchess satin, Chantilly lace, jersey, and jacquard (in a few instances, the fabric was made to resemble crocodile). When I asked the diminutive designer, (who was dressed in her signature black accessorized with a statement making necklace made of over scaled beads), what her favorite piece or pieces were, she answered: “Anything that is embellished.

Josie Natori silver jewel embellished bolero and matching belt (Photo: Marilyn Kirschner)

And then she singled out the black crepe halter column gown with gold scenery embellishment, the black crepe v-neck column gown with with gold scenery embellished black obi belt, the black crepe cap sleeve v neck gown with silver jewel embellishment, and especially, the black pony jersey bolero and duchess satin obi belt with silver jewel embellishment, worn with the duchess satin trouser pant.

Elizabeth Kennedy Fall 2016 Presentation

A little later on that evening, Elizabeth Kennedy showed her lineup of beautiful hand crafted custom couture dresses and gowns at the Grill Room at the Four Seasons Restaurant, Julian Niccolin’s beloved culinary landmark that is moving from its current location to a yet unknown spot in July (I myself welcome any reason to go there). The Parsons Graduate has honed her impressive skills at Donna Karan, J. Mendel, Max Mara, and at the age of 22, was named head of design at Isaac Mizrahi. She launched her namesake line (which is made in New York’s garment center and sold exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman), in 2014.

Elizabeth Kennedy Fall 2016

Among those who attended the presentation: Ken Downing, Fern Mallis, Cameron Silver, Amanda Ross, Alexis Bryan Morgan. Looking at the divinely sculptural, form fitting dresses and gowns, priced from $2950 to $30,000, it was easy to see why she has attracted a fan base that includes high profile fashion lovers such as Sharon Osborne and Mariah Carey (indeed, many of the form fitting gowns had Mariah’s name written all over them).

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post New York Fashion Week Notes appeared first on lookonline.

Thom Browne

This Bud’s for you! And no, I’m not referring to a big cold beer (which I’m sure you are craving now that New York Fashion Week has finally come to an end). I’m talking about all the flowers, floral prints and patterns, which have been spotted on runways all around town. There’s enough variety within that genre to suit just about anybody (even those who don’t necessarily like florals), and just when you thought there couldn’t be another way to do them, enter Thom Browne! (In the meantime, don’t be surprised if you see someone wearing a head to toe TB creation, plus the eccentric Stephen Jones hat, at the next FLO Awards luncheon in Central Park this coming May). But of course, they are hardly the only story that came out of the week, and as it turns out, there was nary a flower on the runways of the three big designers (Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs), who showed on Thursday, the last day of MBFW. Come to think of it, there was not one print either.

Somewhere in between “dressed- to-the-nines-fancy-shmancy”, and “I don’t care” downright sloppy, there’s a whole category of dressing that is based on sportswear. With the glorification and inundation of comfortable athletic footwear (particularly the elevation of the sneaker), and the ubiquitous obsession with jeans, (and denim in general), I think we can safely say good old American sportswear is here to stay, and it’s having its moment right now.

Marc Jacobs

So, it makes perfect sense that it was also the star of New York Fashion Week, which ended on Thursday evening with Marc Jacobs, who is apparently suffering battle ‘fatigue’ (or was thinking everyone else would be at this point), from the look of his military inspired collection which was centered on the idea of uniform dressing played out in army fatigue green, khaki, cadet blue, and black. Almost everything, for day and evening, featured oversized, pronounced, utilitarian pockets (they could easily obliterate the need to carry a purse). Gone were the optimistic, sweet, pastel clouds which hovered over the runway last season, and while he switched his venue, (he had traditionally shown at the Armory on Lexington Avenue and 26th street), last night, he showed at the Park Avenue Armory at 66th street, (a place that was still perfectly suited to his theme).

Calvin Klein

Francisco Costa, who presented his sleek, pared down collection for Calvin Klein in the early afternoon, did a complete about face from last season, which was highly textural, tactile, touchy feely. The body was not hidden in thick cozy coats, but rather, quite on view in thin, sometimes transparent pieces that were spare and elongated, sometimes juxtaposed against fitted jackets or streamlined coats in gleaming leather. It was all about the tank top, luxuriously fabricated of course. Predominant tones were dark blues, black, shades of ivory, and welcome hits of red.

Joseph Altuzarra

Other highlights of the week: Alexander Wang’s sneaker inspired athletic collection; Joseph Altuzarra’s  sexy, tailored, dressed up vision; Michael Kors’s play on iconic sportswear pieces, quirky offhanded mixes, and his tomboyish ode to the sweet 50’s , down to the ballet length full tulle skirts (just in time for FIT’s “Dance & Fashion” exhibition, September 13, 2014 – January 3, 2015 www.fitnyc.edu); Tommy Hilfiger’s rock and roll homage; and Proenza Schouler’s creative, gutsy and graphic approach to athletic wear (I loved that show: “P.S. I love you!”).

Ralph Lauren poppy gazaar safari jacket nude tulle beaded top ghurka stretch suede pant

And on Thursday morning, just days after his Polo Ralph Lauren techno tour de force in Central Park, Ralph Lauren, a designer whose name is synonymous with American sportswear, took us on a dressed up, sleek, sexy safari, for collection, which was shown at 560 Washington Street. Think Bob Lee’s Hunting World (remember that wonderful shop on east 53rd street?) meets Ghurka (not just the iconic bag but its color). Hence, the focus on safari shirts, safari shirtdresses, and safari coats; cargo pants; jodhpurs; bomber jackets; jumpsuits; tailored pant and skirt suits; cashmere and metallic sweaters. And of course, there was the requisite group of floor length, voluminous tulle, beaded, and gazaar dresses, or long skirts, shown with beaded sweaters (there was also a group of tulle beaded tops that obliterated the need to wear any other jewelry).

Ghurka tulle beaded evening dress gold washed vachetta giant hobo

Then of course, there were the great bags (messengers, clutches, drawstrings, ranging in size from tiny to enormous), and shoes, all of which were made of the most luxurious skins. Speaking of which, the only time you saw a flat shoe or sneaker on this runway, is when Ralph took his bow in his chic trainers, at the show’s finale. The diminutive designer likes his gals TALL, and all the models wore very high heeled pumps and platform sandals (which added an additional inch), made of antique gold nappa, gold calf, python, alligator.

Sage green silk taffeta shirt dress

As always, it’s all about the way things are put together and the unexpected mixes (day and evening, masculine and feminine, fluid and structured, rich and humble). In terms of fabrication, there was a lot of cotton, cotton drill, and cotton canvas (most often they appeared in a neutral shade of green and were mixed with silk, satin, charmeuse, cashmere, organza, and tulle). Hits of strong color came by way of poppy, bright yellow, orchid, orchid, fuchsia, lime. Needless to say, these were safari clothes for a fantasy safari (my good friend just came back from a safari that Travel & Leisure billed as the most luxurious in the world, and from what I can gather, nothing in her suitcase resembled an olive metallic organza safari jacket, tulle beaded sweater, or high heeled antique gold metallic platform sandal. While Ralph did not walk on water (nor did his models), as they (sort of) did on Monday evening, it was signature Ralph all the way: glamorous, luxurious, classy, and ultra-feminine.

– Marilyn Kirschner














J. Mendel Gets An “A” in Architecture

J. Mendel Skyscraper shadow fox mounted degrade jacket, Skyscraper printed cotton poplin dress with contrast slashed-seam patchwork skirt

Two creative imaginations are not always better than one unless they can mesh their opinions, work well together and inspire each other. In the case of artist Enoc Perez and designer Gilles Mendel, it’s a perfect match. Gilles Mendel, CEO and designer of his father Jacques eponymous J. Mendel, a luxury boutique of fur, couture and ready-to-wear on Madison Avenue showed his Spring/Summer 2015 collection at Lincoln Center yesterday. There were many society “ladies who lunch” in the Theater as well as Harper’s Bazaar’s Glenda Bailey and Bergdorf’s Linda Fargo, a store which carries the J. Mendel line.

Enoc Perez painting

Once again, he is collaborating with Mr. Perez who he met at a DIA Foundation benefit last year.  They produced a book of collages inspired from the artist’s architectural and nude forms as well as the designer’s workroom.  The book is entitled “Gilles Mendel by Enoc Perez” and you can read about it here: http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/11/16/ This time Mr. Mendel’s collection took on Mr. Perez’s “arresting prints of giant multi-windowed buildings” which he “worked and reworked throughout the collection.” Beyond mere representation, the designer strove to capture the “layered application of paint and metallic leaf” in the artists work.

Rouge leather angle-front collarless jacket, rouge Skyscraper orgnaza jacquet

And succeed he did. Between the luxe fabrics of silk chiffon, textured cotton, crepe de chine, cotton poplin, organza jacquard, leather and, of course, fur along with the beautiful and vibrant color palette of lime yellow, bright red, silver, teal and fuchsia the collection is a dazzler. There is a feeling of deconstruction and collage as solids and prints are dissected into strips, “then jaggedly reassembled into abbreviated dresses and miniskirts that read as sharp and sophisticated.” Flashes of silver are exposed at the seams and as a foil lining on a metallic tweed cutaway jacket over a black and white dress.

For evening, architectural columns emphasize the silhouette while keeping with the theme of jacquard strips against the color, print and translucency.  Even with the furs nothing looks heavy or overdone. Accessories are also kept light with discreet, structural handbags featuring a pop of color for day; silver mirror evening clutches catch the light without distracting from the overall look. The mirror/ivoire double strap stilettos did seem challenging to walk in as several models looked as if they were having difficulty walking. One or two of the models managed to just catch themselves before they hit the deck and became “fashion roadkill” as referenced in the episode of “Sex and the City” in which SJP walks in a fashion show and takes an embarrassing spill.

Yellow shadow fox knitted gilet, shifted-grid beaded v-neck mini dress

As far as the standout looks of the collection, I would naturally gravitate to the colorful pieced fox coats in the turquoise as I love brightly colored fur and actually own a similar Peter Som jacket. As the red, black, and white fur walked the runway, I was thinking how this jacket would be impervious to any attacks of animal blood from PETA as its basically already spotted with the red color to begin with. (Not sure that that’s a selling point! HA). If you prefer solid bright color fur there is a lime broadtail mounted cape as well as a turquoise diagonal let out mink coat, both of which are equally showstopping. I also loved the leather pieces including the red leather skirt suit and an Ivoire leather angle-front coat which was worn over an ivoire matte crepe and leather mini dress. Truth be told I would be thrilled to wear just about anything in the collection though if my lifestyle and wallet warranted it which alas, they don’t.

It will be interesting to see if there are any more collaborations between the Puerto Rican born New York artist and the Paris born New York designer. Mr. Perez admits that he feels quite comfortable with the French. “I could relate to him because my wife is French, and she is a big fan of his work” Perez told the New York Times. Now the question is, do they trade paintings for furs?

– Laurel Marcus













The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

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“I just love the way the ’60s rock stars put themselves together,  because they were like dandies and peacocks. They really lived out their fantasies  – and dressed their fantasies.”- Anna Sui

Even before the first model set foot down the runway at the Anna Sui Spring 2015 show last night you could tell what was coming. The backdrop seemed to me to resemble an amalgam between Anna’s version of the artist Peter Max and the Beatles “Magical Mystery Tour.” Any thoughts of it “coming to take you away” at least for me; a child of the era in question; didn’t quite happen. According to Ms. Sui’s Facebook page the collection is called “Kozmik Rock Star” and was “inspired by the sartorially diverse eras of the ’60s and ’70s.” The tags could bear the line ” Jim Morrison and girlfriend Pamela Courson called from beyond the grave. They want their clothes back.”

Inspiration? At Pamela’s Store Themis in LA

In fact, Pamela did have a clothing store in L.A. called Themis (Jim backed her in it) which she decorated with peacock feathers on the walls and ceiling and I’m pretty sure that these are the sort of clothes that she sold. (Although from all reports I’ve read, the boutique was almost never open). While I enjoy a good acid flashback (sartorially speaking of course) this one was a bit too literal and un-wearable for my taste. I suppose it’s possible that those who weren’t around the first time that these styles were popular would enjoy living the fantasy although I’m skeptical

Joan Jett or Patti Smith?

The show opened with a look that reminded me of an early ’80s collection from Marc by Marc Jacobs when he first began doing that line… dark indigo denim with a Celestial Embroidered Denim Jacket, Iridescent Chiffon Shirt, Aurora Polka Dot Print Bikini Top and Indigo Celestial Embroidered Denim Shorts. Pretty much every look had some combination of the “buzz” (yes, pun) words Celestial, Aurora, Psychedelic, Stardust, Daisy, Moon, Butterfly or Cosmos. In regard to textiles there was Patchwork, Jacquard, Metallic, Chiffon, Crochet, Lame, Beaded and Iridescent. Articles of clothing included Capes, Capelets, Kimonos, Shorts, Rompers, Jumpsuits, Bikinis, Tunics, Vests, a Flight Suit and a Caftan. Featured colors: Navy, Teal, Black, Ivory, Emerald, Lipstick, Sky, Purple, Copper and Iridescent (if that can be called a color). The Sparkle and Glitter fairies definitely paid a big visit (I’m trying to resist saying they threw up on the clothes). Sui’s trademark bohemian vibe especially in terms of the prints used; either ditsy (a kewpie doll pattern top and pant) or an Indian Butterfly allover large print (seen in several pieces) for examples, were also clearly seen throughout. Her favored silhouettes of baby doll dresses appeared as well.

Jacquard and Soutache go unisex

There were a few menswear looks (if you could call them that?) as I don’t know many men, even in the fashion or entertainment industry, who would choose to wear a crushed velvet apricot-hued palazzo pant and print jacket. One of the male models seemed to channel David Bowie in his Ziggy Stardust days, another one gave off the distinct Morrison vibe, others could be Mick, Keith, George in their younger days. I was surprised, as I’ve become aware of the issue, that there were no male or female models of color especially as Jimi Hendrix would have fit right in with this style esthetic. The female models all had that rocker chick or rocker guy’s girlfriend look happening.

George Harrison and Pattie Boyd or Keith Richards and Patti Hansen?

In the audience I noticed Grace Coddington of Vogue, Suzy Menkes and lovable Bill Cunningham happily snapping away. Is there anyone who derives such joy from his job? He is always smiling when he’s working and you certainly can’t say that about too many people. Many in the crowd were wearing either Anna Sui designs from past collection or were just Boho-Chic. I had the pleasure of seeing Anna’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection last February and liked it a lot better than this one. It was much more sophisticated with a sort of Orient Express opulence rather than a somewhat trashy glitter rock edge.

Loving the Boots

Another quote on Anna’s Facebook page informed us that: “While preserving her signature rock-n-roll romanticism, we will see fresh retro references.” Meanwhile, before Anna Sui showed her collection The New York Times observed a trend of three designers (Tommy Hilfiger, Zimmerman and Vera Wang) trying to recreate the flower child for a Spring/Summer 2015 Summer of Love. (link to article) It would seem that there are now four designers looking for that “fresh retro reference.”

– Laurel Marcus

Photos: Raeanne Rubenstein/ShowMagazine 1970, Style.com and Anna Sui’s Facebook page

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

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Burnt Umber Crackle Paper Triangulated jacket, navy sateen cupro jersey tank, cubist gym shorts

Yesterday afternoon I escaped the re-circulated air of the Lincoln Center tents for a while to hang out on the street of a still gritty section of the garment center with Yeohlee and her cast of loyal devotees. Well, not exactly hang out there, although it felt like that’s what we were doing at first, looking like some sort of older, somewhat eccentrically dressed street gang who were more ready to tumble than rumble. Upon arriving on this scene I attempted to descend the stairs to her jewel box store/studio on West 29th Street; a natural instinct as I saw chairs and drinks inside, but was quickly told that the “main event” would be happening outside.

Yeohlee is interviewed for NY 1 before the show

Yeohlee, in black and gray plaid shorts, gray shirt and flat espadrilles, stood directly in front of the atelier bearing her name while she chatted and welcomed her legions of longtime suspects/supporters including designer and CFDA past president Stan Herman and Fashion Law Institute professor and founder Susan Scafidi while everyone jockeyed for position on the sidewalk and snapped photos. Bill Cunningham appeared out of nowhere and the show began. The photographers grouped themselves in a compact area at one end of the sidewalk as the models walked out and were told in no uncertain words exactly how the lens men wanted them to walk the makeshift “urban runway.” I’m willing to bet they don’t prepare you for this in modeling school!

White/Black cotton jersey triangle dress

It all was actually kind of perfect as Yeohlee’s theme for Spring 2015 involves “conquering the complexity of living and working in an urban environment and looks for simple solutions of what to wear” according to her written show description. True to form, her building block shapes of cubes, crescents, ovals and triangles takes on a geometric, yet relaxed and simplistic precision in their construction, in the pattern on the fabric, as well as in the patterning of her garments such as her oval seamed dresses.

Her materials show a contrast of the organic and the manmade including cotton, cupro, microfibre, polyurethane and silk all with a silky hand and flow. Colors ran the gamut from stark black and white to vivid hues of cobalt and prussian blues with splashes of crimson. In one look, Yeohlee combined the severity of the black and white in a distressed cotton jersey box top with her cubist oval shorts in bursts of colors.

Pale gray cotton pinstripe oval dress

She also used ovals to give a light summery shape to a dress in pale grey cotton pinstripe lawn as well as to slim and streamline the body’s contours in brown and black microfibre and in a black cotton solid knit front dress with a black and white ovals back. In that particular dress, the photographers instructed the model to stand on profile so that you could see the juxtaposition and enjoy the surprise that the LBD held upon it’s wearer’s back being turned.

Navy sateen box top, Prussian Blue/White Feather shorts (L),  Black/White Microfibre  Triangle Gusset Blazer, White Microfibre Tank, Black Microfibre Ankle pant (ctr),  Prussian Blue/White Feather Dress (R)

After the official show had ended, the models posed in front of an actual construction site against a painted green construction facade next door to Yeohlee’s building, demonstrating in real time how the clothes work in the urban jungle better than they would on any catwalk.

– Laurel Marcus

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

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The show was held at the Theatre in Lincoln Center on a balmy, warm afternoon, hardly conducive for viewing furs. However, no need to worry since few chinchillas were shown in this collection. Rather a muted pastel amalgam of gowns and dresses was exhibited with only a modicum of signature Basso furs on display. Basso said this collection was inspired by the luxury resorts of the Mediterranean in the 60’s. The show’s utilization of playsuits, tunic tops and capris were indicative of this laid back, summery vibe.

Basso, 59, started his business in 1983 after selling a line of pelts out of the trunk of a rented town car. He now caters his collection to socialites and movie stars, recently dressing Gabrielle Union for her wedding to basketball star Dwayne Wade. Spotting Ivana Trump at the show, she recounted being introduced to Basso 30 years ago when his showroom was the size of the smallest bathroom in her house (that still might be quite large). Enthralled by his talent, Ivana bought 6 coats from him immediately, and later attended his first fashion show at the Pierre. Another longtime fan, Star Jones, who has known Dennis for 20 years and worn his gowns and furs to the Obama inauguration and “Celebrity Apprentice” finale said that every fur she possesses is from Dennis and he is like a big brother.

Star Jones at the show (All photos Lieba Nesis)

On a more somber note, Star recollected sitting next to Joan Rivers at last year’s show and Joan being the “ultimate feminist” by encouraging women to stand on their own two feet and personally exhorting Star to move on when she experienced “yucky” times professionally. While the usual suspects attended the show such as Carol Alt, Hal Rubenstein, Amy Fine Collins, Julie Macklowe, Michele Herbert, Lucia Gordon and some newbies such as Jada Pinkett, Lisa Rinna, and Hoda Kotb the show lacked its usual excitement and electricity partially attributable to the absence of Mrs. Rivers and the smaller than usual crowd. Basso dedicated his show to his good friend Joan Rivers and asked for a moment of silence before the show began.

Olive alligator and sable jacket & silver romper

The collection opened with a simple white dress which was surprisingly demure and unadorned. The following looks in white, even when coupled with a fur, were simple and clean without the wow factor of the bolder colors which Dennis usually employs. However, the heather broadtail and sable cape with a white dress was a stunning contrast- the luxuriousness of a Basso fur against the delicacy of a white dress is where Basso excels. Similarly the olive alligator sable jacket against a silver shorts romper, was a dynamite and unlikely combination; it is rare to see shorts at a Dennis Basso show but this was executed perfectly. The use of rose gold, blush and apricot were delightful and soft yet, I missed the bold midnight blues and glaring greens of his previous collections.

Mosaic caviar hand embroidered flora cloque gown

The mosaic caviar hand embroidered yellow and grey cloque gown was showstopping, the yellow and grey combination that he utilized throughout this collection was exquisite, with the detailed embroidery producing a lavish yet understated effect. The grey mink coat over the grey suede shorts romper was an exciting twist to the typical fur combination, and one that I hope soon appears on the beaches of St. Tropez. The mink and broadtail mosaic crop tunic and cloque mini in pink and grey was so gently luminescent it was hard to detect any trace of fur in the dazzling combination. The floral hand embroidered dresses were pretty and ethereal without producing any dramatic effect. However, the last three gowns were magnificent due to their intricate embroidery and opulent appearance. The sheer floral mesh gazaar gown was richly layered with an otherworldly beauty and sexiness that is trademark Dennis Basso.

Pink hand embroidered sheer mesh gazaar gown

The last gown in pink with hand embroidered petals on a sheer mesh gazaar gown was provocative and heavenly, a fitting conclusion to an understated, yet beautifully restrained show. The conclusion of the show had Dennis Basso walking out and greeting his fans and friends to muted applause and cheers. The atmosphere of restrained enthusiasm was due to the passing of longtime Basso client Joan Rivers. Rivers possessed a large collection of Basso furs, and was the paradigm of a typical Dennis client: a working socialite with a zest for life, furs and splendor. Her absence is not only a loss to her family and friends, but to the fashion world as a whole. We will mourn the passing of a giant talent, and connoisseur of the finer things in life – one of them being a wardrobe comprised of Dennis Basso creations.

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There are a number of people in this world, who believe they can “walk on water” including some fashion designers. But Ralph Lauren can actually lay claim to having done so, if only because of the ground breaking new technology of water projections.

Last night, I, along with hundreds of guests attended a Ralph Lauren Polo for Women Spring 2015 “Fashion Event” in Central Park. (It would also serve as a celebration that marked the unveiling of a new lifestyle concept 38,000 square foot Polo flagship on Fifth Avenue). While we did not know what it would be, we basically knew it was not going to be a traditional show, and it was not.

We were asked to be at 72nd Street and Central Park West at 9 pm and when we arrived, we were checked in, given polo wristbands, and had a choice of walking on foot, or taking a golf cart to a grassy spot close to Cherry Hill Lake. Since the event was a Ralph Lauren event, one would expect it to be first class all the way and of course, it was. There was a string quintet playing classical music, waiters serving champagne, and snacks (lobster rolls and Ralph Lauren cheeseburgers). We were told to get as close to the water as possible and it was obvious something would happen in that spot. I saw Anna Wintour, Diane Von Furstenberg, Barry Diller, Steven Kolb, Amy Astley, Stan Herman, Constance White, Robin Givhan, Ralph and Ricky Lauren, etc. but suffice it to say visibility was not at peak level: it was pretty dark but for street lamps and polo t shirt clad men illuminating the way.

At about 9:15, to the strains of Frank Sinatra’s “Fly me to the Moon” (a favorite Ralph Lauren tune), the water began rising in what appeared to be a large moon, and low and behold, the holographic 4D “runway show” began. To be sure, it was pretty cool and there were great special effects, including one that made it appear as though the Brooklyn Bridge was right in front of your eyes. At the end, Ralph came out and took his traditional bow on water (or rather, it was made to look that way). In the meantime, those standing close to the water, got sprayed with the water (my hair and clothes were a bit damp). They should have warned guests to wear water proof clothes LOL. But the bigger problem was that one did not get a very clear picture of the clothes. Sure, you could get an overall idea of the line: colorful, young, eclectic, lots of fringe, etc. But at the end of the day, I still need to go on www.vogue.com to actually see what the spring 2015 collection is all about.

All I can say is that it was lucky that the weather cooperated. I can’t imagine how this event would have played out, had it been raining. But of course, when a designer like Ralph can ‘walk on water’, one would expect he has everything under control, and the power to make things go his way, no?

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Carolina Herrera Spring 2015 tulip spectrum print silk gazaar gown (All photos: Style.com

Fresh off her Artistry in Fashion Award, Carolina Herrera proved herself more than worthy of the honor bestowed upon her by FIT’s Couture Council on Wednesday September 5th. Her spring 2015 collection, shown to a packed house on Monday morning at the Tent at Lincoln Center, was beautifully conceived, perfectly executed, and quite artistic in its celebration of the flower (flower prints and flower hues).

Pixelated rose print gazaar top and textured viscose long skirt

Her program notes explained that the inspiration for the season was “the color code of the flower, a simple boom”. The color palette emphasized vibrant pinks, iris blues, purples, gray tones, and soft yellows.  As for the prints, let’s face it, not all flower prints are ‘garden variety’, and Carolina’s magnolias, parrot tulips, roses, lilies, were not dainty and delicate, but fierce, overblown, graphic, and made larger than life thanks to modern technology. They were digitized and pixelated, and were translated onto a combination of techno crepe and techno pique fabrics. Considering that the designer, (like myself and many others of a certain generation), did not grow up tech savvy in the computer world, it makes her efforts all the more impressive.

Parrot tulip embroidered silk faille dress

The venue itself was literally transformed into a magical white space: all the seats were covered in white cotton, and interspersed throughout, were a group of vertiginous green cone shaped sculptures. All those designers and publicists who don’t believe they can transform Lincoln Center into something special, please take note. It is possible. I particularly loved the way Carolina did not play favorites, and showed a variety of shapes, lengths, silhouettes, and proportions (as with her footwear, which ranged from ‘flatform’ sandals and demure kitten heels, to elegant high high heels). There were many sculptural details and some of the most beautiful backs  seen around.

Among the 45 pieces, there were several one could consider informal and geared for more relaxed hours, but let’s face it, this is a collection which is all about special occasions: whether small chic cocktail parties or full blown galas. In fact, it was as if the designer specifically had in mind, all those fabulous parties centered around botanical themes (it seems there are more and more of them, especially in the spring and summer), and no doubt we will be seeing many of these spectacular creations on prominent social fixtures in the months ahead.

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Channeling the late great original, Joan Rivers, who was cremated on Saturday and eulogized at a memorial service at Temple Emanuel on Sunday, “Can we talk?” I wish I could warm up to the Spring Street Studios located in Tribeca, but I honestly don’t understand the appeal it holds for designers, editors, publishers, and retail executives. And I happen to live close enough to almost be able to walk to it.

Rivera buds blue mikado coat, bra top, and pleated skirt

Last night, Diane Von Furstenberg held her spring 2014 show, dubbed “Riviera”, at this popular and hip venue, just like she did last season. And the good news is that many past “issues” have seemingly been ironed out (at least there wasn’t freezing ice and snow greeting us as we departed the space as there was in February). While there is always a bit of a bottleneck and traffic jam upon entering the building, it was all handled professionally, and groups of show attendees were guided to elevators, which they saw to it, were not so jam packed as to be dangerous (personally, I still detest any venue where elevators are needed to get large groups of people to their seats, because it makes it hard to get in and out quickly).

When I did finally get to my seat, I noticed that there was a lot of sun flooding the space, coming from the vast west facing windows, and was sorry I forgot my sunscreen. This was not lost on the animated photographers, who began chanting in unison, the iconic Fifth Dimension 70’s song, “Let the sunshine in”. Thankfully, the 5 pm show began at 5:20 sharp, making it ‘early’ in fashion jargon.

Blue and white stretch gingham top and shorts

As it turns out, the sun figured in prominently into the proceedings ( the first few sentences of the run of show read: “As the sun sparkles on the Cote d’Azur, she rises in a gingham wrap with a flirty chiffon skirt, a ruffle catching the breeze behind her”). Indeed, the collection had a hard to miss South of France vibe and was heavy on navy and white stripes, toile collage and garden prints, and especially, gingham checks in navy and white, or black and white.

Black and white gingham silk jersey and chiffon dress

By the way, gingham checks (in black and white, pink and white, blue and white, red and white), were spotted at Altuzarra the night before, where they showed up as impeccably tailored suits, shirts, and dresses, so I guess we can say this is a ‘trend’. The strongest pieces were in black and white (the first group out), and while they often stood alone, in one instance, Diane mixed them with a toile garden print in pink. There was an unmistakable Bridget Bardot sex kitten vibe, which came by way of body hugging short shorts and form fitting, curve defining dresses. Even some of the models resembled BB, with their pouty lips and long blonde hair parted in the middle

–

– Marilyn Kirschner
















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On Cloud Nine

Marc Jacobs ombre shearling jackets and ribbed knits (Photos: Style.com)

Marc Jacobs cleaned up his act from last season, got rid of all the excess and trimmings, and put a fabulous exclamation point on MBFW last night with a pared down, ultra-modern, sports infused collection filled with sleek ribbed knits, fabulously over sized shearling jackets some of which were trimmed in Mongolian lamb, v neck tunics and pants, multi colored sequined dresses, and some of the best flat and low heeled boots around (including one that was particularly fabulous: a pale shearling over the knee boot).

Marc Jacobs tunics and over the knee boots

The clouds hanging over the Lexington Avenue Armory could be considered to be symbolic of many things. Not only did they mimic the pleasingly pale neutral color palette of the clothes (black was not shown at all), but Marc has a right to be on cloud nine, after leaving Louis Vuitton earlier this year to focus his energies on his own label – with an eye to an initial public offering in the near future (guaranteeing he will become fashion’s next billionaire). And now we can all be on “cloud nine”, since MBFW has finally come to a conclusion. I know there are some who would say you have to suffer for fashion, but this past week, that’s been taken to a whole new level.  I don’t think I’ve ever gone through a February Fashion Week under such relentlessly hostile weather conditions; and unfortunately for us, it had to be during a season where shows could not have been LESS centralized. Boy oh boy, where was Bryant Park when we could have most used it?

Marc Jacobs graphic shearling flat over the knee boots

I don’t think it made it above 20 degrees the entire time and by the way, what IS going on with the weather? Is God trying to tell us something? It’s been ridiculously frigid here in New York, yet unseasonably warm in Sochi, where they could really use those conditions, (and reportedly, skiers are wearing tank tops). Maybe we should have switched locations. Actually, I don’t even want to say that jokingly, because some of the brilliant powers in charge of MBFW might actually think it’s a good idea. Putin would certainly love it. And for sure, the exotically out of the way locale might truly appeal to any number of hip and cool young designers who are at the top of their fields right now, and just love to prove they can walk on water. They just know the faithful fashion flock will go wherever they hold a show. Scoring that invite and getting there will be the ultimate status symbol. Then all anyone would need are the street paparazzi to follow, because without them taking your picture, why bother to get dressed and show up? LOL. I think I noticed that a few street blog fixtures changed outfits several times during the course of one day (you know who you are).

Ralph Lauren lilac feather jacket heather grey melange cashmere turtleneck taupe melange flannel suiting pant

In any event, the icy snow literally stung my face and practically blinded me, as I walked to Washington Street for Ralph Lauren’s 10AM show at St. John’s Center Studios. Ralph changed things up by showing both Collection, and his new Polo line (talk about uptown vs. downtown). Collection, presented to the tune of a French soundtrack, which I suppose, was meant to emphasize the notion of Parisian chic. Not only did it feel like déjà vu all over again (haven’t I seen that before?), but overall, it looked a bit too pretty, ladylike and therefore, a touch old fashioned. Colors were predominantly ivory, cream, off white, shades of grey, mauve, lavender, pink (there was no black, which was used at Polo). Luxurious fabrics included cashmere and double faced cashmere, silk, crepe, suede, Mongolian and Tibetan Lamb, feathers, tropical wool, jersey, lame.

Ralph Lauren Cream cashmere jacket winter white cashmere sweater winter white cashmere jogging pant

There were many capes and ponchos (too many, as it got redundant). The pieces that looked best were easy and effortlessly luxurious. That includes Karlie Kloss’s fabulously chic cream cashmere trench worn with a winter white cashmere silk boucle turtleneck, cream limo cloth jodhpur, and the fitted cream cashmere jacket, paired with winter white cashmere jogging pants, and a winter white cashmere sweater (both outfits were accessorized with cream kid suede hi tops); the grey mélange cashmere silk turtleneck worn with a leg baring long skirt in grey light jersey; the lilac feather jacket paired with heather grey mélange cashmere turtleneck and taupe mélange flannel suiting pants; a beautiful and simple pale pink lame narrow evening gown; and the grey light jersey evening dress with self-cape which closed the show.

Polo Ralph Lauren brown shearling aviator jacket, beacon linen dress, beacon wool and leather backpack; calfsuede clog sandal

The new Polo collection, which is obviously younger, cooler, more colorful, more eclectic, is also infused with touches of grunge, which has shown up elsewhere this week (Tommy Hilfiger and even Michael Kors, among others). And it really looks most like Ralph, who walked out dressed all in black with lace up hiking boots. Standouts, include the serape silk blend cardigan, khaki silk jersey dress and tan tumbled leather fringe bag; the brown shearling aviator jacket, worn with a beacon linen long dress, a printed wool and leather backpack, and calfsuede clog sandals; and the perfectly tailored long and lean black wool reefer coat which was shown over an elongated fair isle patterned sweater dress.

Polo Ralph Lauren brown shearling aviator jacket, beacon linen dress, beacon wool and leather backpack; calfsuede clog sanda

It’s not lost on me that Ralph’s location is not too far from Spring Studios at 55 Varick Street, where Joseph Altuzarra, Diane Von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein, held their shows. Maybe in the future, someone in charge of scheduling could at least push for these Tribeca based shows to be clumped together and see that they take place conveniently on the same day, AND perhaps find more suitable spaces in the neighborhood. This would more effectively make the most use of being there and ensure that going back and forth would be kept to a minimum. It could even be fashion’s answer to the Tribeca Film Festival. As you know, downtown (below Tribeca) is definitely on the rebound, so maybe this should be taken into consideration and explored. Just consider this: Conde Nast, which publishes Vogue and The New Yorker, will move over 5000 employees into 1 World Trade Center later this year. Brookfield Place, a 250,000 square foot mall, on the site of the former World Financial Center, will open in March 2015. Among the high end names who have signed on, Hermes, Burberry, Ferragamo, Michael, Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, Theory, Scoop, and Calypso St. Barth’s.

Getting back to the more painful moments this past week…a group of show goers (including Andre Leon Talley) were stuck in an elevator leaving Oscar de la Renta’s Tuesday night show and as far as I’m concerned, this was an accident waiting to happen (though thankfully nobody got hurt, only rattled). When will organizers understand that showing in venues that necessitate hordes of people cram into small elevators to get in and out, is simply put, inconsiderate, not to mention potentially scary and dangerous. I understand that Oscar’s high floor west 42 street headquarters makes a far more economical show venue than the rather grand and welcoming 583 Park Avenue, (a landmark building that was recently restored and is now being used for private events), that he had been using up until a few years go. But there must be something in between.

Calvin Klein comfy and cozy

But luckily, while one must suffer for fashion when it comes to covering the shows (it’s just part of the job description), based on what I’ve seen on and off the runways this week, it’s obvious one need not make a choice between looking great and feeling great when it comes to one’s fashion choices. It’s been hard not to notice that some of the best collections had a relaxed ease, in terms of the mood and silhouette, and a noticeable level of warm, cozy, comfort, even where footwear was concerned. Thankfully, designers are really embracing flat and low heeled shoes and boots, and they have never looked better.

Time was, dressing FOR the cold weather was looked down on and frowned upon. Resembling Nanook of the north was akin to announcing to the world, that you do not have a car and driver at your disposal, and that you have to rely on public transportation to get around town. There used to be countless women who refused to give up their Manolo Blahnik stiletto pumps regardless of the season or the weather, and many continued to embrace the bare leg look even in the freezing cold.  But desperate times call for desperate measures, and this season, the ones who looked as though they were rushing the seasons (going bare legged in high heels, opting for flimsy jackets, sheer see through tops or chiffon skirts, etc.) not only looked uncomfortably freezing, they looked ridiculous. Just a note: just because you can doesn’t mean you should.

The best dressed women in my opinion, were not only dressed for the weather, but for running around to shows from morning until night. Often times, they were encased in fur (the brighter or more graphic the better), clad in unisex utility parkas (it was hard to tell the boys from the girls at times), or unfussy borrowed from the boys’ reefer coats (a tomboy thread ran through many collections as well). In many cases, show attendees wore head obscuring hoods, neck and face obscuring scarves, leg warmers, and arm warmers. Flat men’s style oxfords, flat riding boots, Hunter boots, and every manner of shoe with practical lug soles were all the better to maneuver the slippery streets. Beanie hats and knitted caps were the order of the day.

It’s not about looking like a pampered princess but a hale and hearty urbanite who not only wants to look good, but needs to efficiently get through the paces of her day.  Interestingly, this is quite a bit at odds with the amazingly rarefied world inhabited by late great couturier Charles James, who is the subject of the upcoming Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibition (to be shown in the new Anna Wintour Costume Center). One of the things he was most known for was his revolutionary sculpted ball gowns, and in case you haven’t noticed, ball gowns have almost disappeared from recent runways. So much so that even Ralph Rucci did not show one Infanta. But of course, there are plenty of other elements to explore, including his “design process and his innovative tailoring”. And in the words of Thomas P. Campbell: “Charles James considered himself an artist, and approached fashion with a sculptor’s eye and a scientist’s logic.  “As such, the Met is the ideal place to explore the rich complexity of his innovative work.”

-Marilyn Kirschner










The J. Mendel Show – A Study in Elegance

Red plaid broad tail coat with red sable bolero (Photos: Lieba Nesis)

The J. Mendel show was held at the Theater in Lincoln Center on a day where the inclement weather resulted in a sparse turnout. However, the show was orchestrated perfectly with numerous references to the house’s Franco-Russian heritage and the world of the ballet. Gilles Mendel, began his career apprenticing under his father at his fur salon in Paris in 1981, and has expanded his collection from furs to include a ready to wear collection catering to a high society clientele. Michelle Obama, Sandra Bullock, Taylor Swift, and Kate Mara are known to wear Mendel dresses and he has become an increasingly sought-after designer, especially during awards season. While many were not able to attend the event, some regulars such as Glenda Bailey and Hal Rubinstein were there as well as luminaries Anna Kendrick and Kelly Rutherford. The collection was simple and unadorned with fluid silhouettes, jeweled tones, and lush outerwear.

Off white and taupe knitted fox cape with silk straight pant

The show opened with red plaid minks and furs coupled with asymmetrical skirts highlighting the geometrical patterns on the jackets. The effect was sexy biker meets Russian oligarch and when paired with the lace cut out booties it was a knockout. When I was about to tire of the red furs and plaids Mendel quickly switched to lush colored furs, leather skirts and dresses. The black and red macramé gown with a red lace bootie was daring and edgy with a hard femininity that is difficult to achieve. The short black, purple and red dresses were highly intricate with little impact, the shortness of the hem opposed the intricacy of the bodices almost making the garments look incomplete. The white and black mink and shearling were divine; but my favorite look was the one Mendel does best- the lush off-white and taupe knitted fox cape with a silk straight leg pant- the voluminous jacket against the tapered pant was dramatic and delicate. The opulence of the outerwear was astonishing as exhibited by the eel paneled coats and multi-color plaid mink jackets- when belted these looks were structured and effective.

Off white chiffon gown with asymmetrical skirt

The finale of the collection was breathtakingly elegant with girls sashaying down the runway in chiffon gowns of sapphire, peridot, off white and black. The draping on these sheer cutout dresses was perfection with an angelic fluidity that amazed. Mendel said these dresses were supposed to capture the romance of the ballet and specifically the Ballets Russes- an itinerant ballet company that was based in Paris in the early 1900’s. These gowns with little beading and embellishments were innately luminescent, similar to the dancers in a ballet. The collection ranging from lush furs to feminine gowns was executed masterfully. The attention to detail with touches such as the Blahnik booties and leather belts greatly enhanced the impact of the collection. The soothing classical music coupled with the jeweled toned furs and gowns made this show a triumphant success and a fashion week standout.

-Lieba Nesis












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