It’s Lisa’s (Mod) World, & We’re Only Living In It Everything comes and goes (and comes back again) in the world of fashion, and Mod, which always looks just right in my opinion (hey, I’m a child of the 60’s), is having it’s MOMENT right now. This can largely be attributed to its endorsement for spring 2013 by many of the world’s most influential designers, not the least of whom is Marc Jacobs. His eponymous show in New York, and his collection for Louis Vuitton in Paris, were complete, undiluted, and unadulterated Mod visions, through and through. Of course, we all know that Marc, who is known for his fashion inconsistency and his quick turnarounds on the runway, will have completely shifted gears for fall 2013, and whatever wavelength he’s on right now, is almost guaranteed to be the polar opposite of last season (unless of course, he REALLY wants to mess with our minds and completely surprise and fool us- LOL). Lisa Perry circle square sweater in cashmere and wool One designer who is thoroughly consistent from one season to the next, and always stays true to her Mod roots, is Lisa Perry (www.lisaperrystyle.com). She first started making custom dresses for friends and acquaintances with a local couturier, and now has a complete women’s clothing line, as well as accessories, children’s wear, and home products. The poster child for Mod and the undisputed Queen of Mod, (on this side of the Atlantic anyway), Lisa is also an avid art collector, and this, in addition to pop and photography, always inform her designs (artists collections with collaborations with Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Jeff Koons, have resulted in some memorable pieces). Oh, and by the way, she happens to be the wife of Richard Perry, whose hedge fund, Perry Capital, acquired Barneys from Istithmar World this past May. (Translation: Richard Perry owns Barneys). Lisa Perry reversible twist dress, coat, skirt and fuchsia two tier dress. Yesterday afternoon, she presented her 26 piece fall line, installation style, on live models, in her stark white boutique on 77th and Madison Avenue. Dubbed, “mazes, twists & doodles”, it was broken up into 6 vignettes, and naturally, it had all the Lisa Perry signatures: the streamlined, minimal shapes, geometric patterns commonly associated with op art, hits of strong color, and the use of stark black and white. As for the latter (a combination that cannot be improved upon as far as I’m concerned),  it provided some of the standout pieces shown. Lisa Perry houndstooth flirt jacket, circle skirt, foxy coat, and shift dress There was a grouping in an overblown black and white houndstooth (including a swing coat with a massive black fox hem), and another that graphically paired optic white with black (the simplicity of the ‘perfect coat’ in white stretch twill over a t square dress in black and white stretch twill, and the t square top in black and white stretch twill, paired with the perfect pant in black stretch twill speaks volumes).

The post Fashion Week Notes by Marilyn Kirschner appeared first on lookonline.

So Many Empty Seats

As been noted by The New York Times and others, a number of major designers and many others of lesser light suffered this season from a lot of no shows. I wonder if people are being spread too thin or there is just a growing weariness over all the hype?

For example, we had to struggle to get our editor into a major designer show. The PR firm, who just took over the account and was handling press invites, would not even respond to our requests for a seat. ( I am not mentioning any names to protect the innocent – mostly us LOL) We have covered this show for at least 10 years before this season. I had to call the designer’s people directly before we could get an invite. When she got there, she was given standing room while empty seats abounded.

There has always been a suspicion of mine some PR firms would rather have empty seats than to invite those who they deem not worthy of an invitation. This holds true especially for shows like Rodarte whose brands are built on exclusivity. Of course, you can be invited to a show for years and then, when the designer changes PR firms, you find yourself no longer on the new publicist’s A list.

Editorial: Babes In Arms

 The New York Times also reported today on all those VIP’s who are bringing their toddlers and newborns into fashion shows. Frankly, I am sure it is not because they cannot afford a babysitter. Besides the health and safety issues involved, here is another example of ego driven behavior. These parents are showing off their status as being so important they can bring in their children and get seats for them. The publicists don’t have the nerve to say no – least they should offend one of them. This is an issue that PR firms do not want to deal with. So they don’t. If there is less seating available to others who have a real reason for being there – too bad, they can stand. It is not as important as providing seats to VIP’s kids (and for that matter their grand children, maids, daughter-in-laws, etc, etc, etc). 

 Reminds me of years ago a former fashion editor of New York Magazine (initials are MB for those who remember her) brought in her photographer husband, two kids, her maid and her dog into a Marc Jacobs show. Standing outside were members of the out-of-town-press who could not get in. I turned to one of them and said: “See where you stand with the designer’s publicist? They will let the dog in but not you.”

– Ernest Schmatolla

And here from one of our devout readers is Joshua Patner. Read his comments about the above editorial. I have always said, if you dish it, you have to be able to take it. So here we are taking it: 

Joshua says: Nonsense like this serves to prove PRs are right to protect their clients from your silliness. I do find reading it so entertaining however; it’s a secret pleasure like tacky HGTV. Of course you all will never look at your own work – terrible writing, no command of punctuation, spelling, proof-reading, your miniscule personal vendettas, the banal taste of your “editors”.

The post New York Fashion Week Notes appeared first on lookonline.

The last day of New York Fashion Week is traditionally saved for the heavy hitters, or at the very least, those names who have become synonomous with American Fashion. I guess you can say that Ralph Lauren has always owned the morning, with his two back-to-back shows at the Skylight Studios. It was not until Ricky Lauren took her seat in the front row, that the show I attended began. Dressed in bright kelly green trousers, a navy polo (with an oversized white polo player), natty navy blazer, and high heeled black and white spectator pumps, she was carrying the huge Ricky bag (named after her), in black crocodile. She looked just great and she is almost always dressed to mimic what her hubby is showing on the runway. Well, not this time. In fact, far from it.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 Collection

Ralph is in a decidedly soft (and light) mood these days, and almost his entire collection was rendered in what one would call traditional spring colors (easter egg, jordan almond shades). There was robin’s egg blue, citron, celery, daffodil, celadon, blush (which was really pink), ivory, white, and coral. There was no navy, no black, and the darkest color used was probably olive drab. Fabrics included georgette, crepe de chine, hammered satin, tulle, silk chiffon, and beaded chiffon, and bouquet florals showed up as accents (mainly accessories: scarves and bags). As usual, there were a variety of lengths, proportions, and silhouettes. Ralph’s aesthetic is always about the play of boy meets girl, soft and hard, day and evening, and while the overall mood was romantic and feminine, that flip side of the coin (the expert tailoring, the menswear influences, etc.) are always in place.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 Collection

There was a decidedly Gatsby-esque feeling throughout and the show opened with separates in a mix of colors and fabrics: cashmere or mohair ‘vintaged’ cardigans that were made to look moth eaten (I kid you not), were shown over soft floral georgette skirts, and short sleeved cashmere sweaters were paired with crepe de chine culottes, for example. Straw and raffia wedge sandals, jaunty hats and caps, and fabulous bags (floral scarf bags and beaded bags with exaggerated fringe trim) accessorized everything.

One of the strongest, and most signature groupings was in shades of ivory and white and this is when I feel Ralph is at his purist and best (the simplicity of an ivory hi gloss silk tank dress or one of his superb double breasted jackets and wide legged menswear inspired trousers). At one point during the show, right after the group of pastel hued georgette dresses, the feathers really began to fly, (literally), as ostrich feather capes, boleros, jackets, (in the pastel shades shown throughout) were thrown over everything from chiffon and beaded dresses to wide legged trousers and lame tops.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 Collection

As usual, his finale of long dresses never disappoints: there were languid gowns of intricate beaded ivory georgette, tulle, chiffon, and panne velvet and a silver grey organza beaded bustier and ivory jersey long skirt looked especially good. But for dramatic simplicity, nothing can beat the graceful ivory jersey gown (which would make a beautiful wedding gown by the way).

A Blass from the Past

Bill Blass Spring 2012 Collection

The Bill Blass collection, designed for the second year byJeffrey Monteiro, was shown at the Union League Club on 37th street between Park and Madison Avenues. It’s very traditional, conservative and old world, down to the wood paneled reception area where mimosas were served to waiting guests and a piano player was providing background music. It felt more like a cocktail party than a fashion show, and I thought it seemed very ‘Bill Blass’. As for the clothes well, yes, they to were very Blass (in a way) and I’m sure Bill would think some of the pieces were “snappy” (an expression he used quite frequently). Among them: the natty navy serge twill gold buttoned blazer, pea coat, and the black and white stripe suiting double breasted blazer, shown with a black and white dot georgette bow top, and white cuffed tuxedo pant. A red long sleeved georgette gown with accordian pleat skirt was perfectly pretty and a yellow double face hooded mackintosh was in keeping with the sporty mood. That said, it was all rather predictable (it’s spring so let’s do nautical: navy, white, red, yellow, black, and stripes), a tad too straightfoward, it lacked a point of view, and there was nothing in the clothes to show anything of the designer.The t shirts with the double b logo were a bit corny, and did they really need to show white knit short shorts that more closely resembled underpants?

In the Flesh

Calvin Klein Spring 2012 Collection Photos: firstView.com

I was scheduled for the 3PM show and when I arrived at 39th Street at approximately 3 PM, the 2PM show was not yet over. There was quite a paparazzi feeding frenzy when Uma Thurman came out of the venue looking unbelievable in a Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein blue dress. It was not until I got home later that day, that I saw an email forwarning me that the show would start at 3:30PM. Regardless of the snafu, Francisco Costa’s shows are always a wonderful way to end the long week because you are sure to see fashion in its purist form, with everything whittled down to the barest minimum.

Calvin Klein Spring 2012 Collection

This season, the term “bare minimum” is especially apropos, because there was a hard to miss feeling of lingerie throughout (including the color palette of barely there, whisper soft nudes, flesh tones, and soft make up shades). Slips and slip tops were seen throughout the collection and transparent mesh added another dimension. The predominant silhouette throughout the 26 pieces, was elongated, languid, and lean. While the clothes followed the lines of body, they never hugged or constricted it. There was nothing tight.

Calvin Klein Spring 2012 Collection

The basis of this line is the dress, specifically, a slip dress in layered tulle, metallic silk, or silk crepe; dresses with peplum details; jersey or viscose dresses that were fluted and pleated in back. While they stood on their own, they were the perfect compliment for a narrow shawl collared jacket or coat (Francisco is taken with shawl collars this season and some of them were exaggeratedly low). The juxtaposition of something so feminine and soft, against something a touch masculine, was especially effective. Francisco also offered new suits and proposed wide legged pants. He also showed wide legged cropped culottes which are sure to be controversial as they are hardly the most flattering or easy to wear.

Calvin Klein Spring 2012 Collection

When Francisco did not use blush, nude, pale wisteria, or gardenia, he opted for black (which he called lacquer), and it looked particuarly good. Standouts were the lacquer double faced silk crepe reverse seam slip dress; the lacquer viscose crepe pinch pleat jacket worn over a fluted tank dress; the silk crepe long sleeve t shirt and reversed satin jacquard sculpted pleat skirt; the black double faced silk pinched waist jacket, long sleeve t, and wide legged pant, and the black silk satin shawl collar jacket, silk mesh long sleeve t, double faced silk crepe wide leg pant.

“I’ll Have What She’s Having”

Photos courtesy the Museum at FIT

For me, the week could not have ended on a higher note. Nor could it have been more ‘fit’-ing. I attended the opening of ‘Daphne Guinness’, the new exhibit at the Museum at FIT which runs through January 7, 2012. There have been many exhibitions celebrating the work of great designers, but not many have had as their subject, an individual collector. The Honorable Daphne Guinness, known for her dramatic coif and her impossibly towering platforms, is a style icon extraordinaire who has inspired countless designers, not the least of whom was the late Alexander McQueen (the two were extremely close friends who collaborated together for many years).

In this exhibit of approximately 100 extraordinary pieces, about 40% are by the late designer and about 24 of those are garments that have never been displayed until now. Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel makes up the next biggest grouping, and there are designs by Valentino, Christian Lacroix, Dior, Givenchy, Tom Ford, Rick Owens, Dolce & Gabbana, and Gareth Pugh. Co-curated by Daphne herself and Valerie Steele, the exhibit is carefully divided into groups which really show the depth and breath of her amazing, enviable collection, and it tells quite a story.

Daphne is almost always seen around town in a beautifully constucted uniform of black and white (favoring fitted suits with crisp white shirts with pronounced collars and cuffs – just like her friend Karl Lagerfeld) and she has a ‘thing’ for uniforms. So it really should not have come as a surprise that while there are certainly some over the top pieces, the majority of what is shown (much of it in black, white, gray), could best be described as classic, beautifully tailored, and very elegant, and if you take away the extreme shoes and accessories, the look would be ladylike, if not a bit dowdy. (I myself would kill to have some of the chic suits and coats, and judging from the admiring guests, they felt the same way). Note to self: go back at a quieter time and have a better look.

The only bad thing about seeing this exhibit right after fashion week ended, and in retrospect, almost everything shown paled by comparison. For more information, visit fitnyc.edu/museum

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

This is the perfect down jacket for après ski or everyday. The chevron quilting gives it a sleek appearance and it is made of waterproof, breathable fabric, so it will keep you dry and comfortable. The removable hood is trimmed with faux fur (a real fur option is also available), and it comes in six colors.

Available at: http://www.nils.us/ faux fur, $385.00; real fur, $565.00

The Coco Coat and Down Trooper Hat from SKEA

Here is a down coat that is contoured to your shape, so you won’t have to look like a puffball to stay warm this winter. It is available in black, white and an iridescent Tahitian Pearl. Pair it with the cozy Down Trooper Hat and you will be ready for the coldest of days.

The post The Finale (Or Should I Say, Finally!) appeared first on lookonline.

The Designers, the Models, the Fashions of the Bryant Park Era

Published by Running Press; Hardcover $30

In this definitive pictorial biography of the shows, Mell’s book focuses on what’s been termed as the “Golden Era” of New York Fashion Week, the Bryant Park years from 1993-2010. Forwarded by Phillip Bloch, the 368 page book tells the story in pictures for each year, season by season with runway, backstage, front row and behind-the-scenes photos shot by two of the best photographers in the business – Randy Brooke and Roxanne Lowit.

Each season is divided into 4 sections: Trends, The Scene, New on the Scene & Fresh Faces. The book is also laced full of mini-interviews with everyone from Stan Herman, Ralph Rucci, James Aguiar, Edward Tricomi, to Barbara Berman, Robert Verdi, Narciso Rodriquez, and Maggie Rizer. The book is well researched and is extensively cross indexed. Everybody who was anybody during this period is included.

Meet author Eila Mell with special guests Narciso Rodriguez and Thakoon Panichgul as she signs copies of her new book, New York Fashion Week during Fashion’s Night Out (September 8) at Bergdorf Goodman: 7:00-8:30 pm: Fourth Floor

(Buy the book now on Amazon)

About the Author: Eila Mell is a journalist who has spent many years writing about fashion, theater, and film and interviewing some of the biggest names in world of fashion and entertainment. She has appeared on nearly a hundred TV and radio shows, including The Insider and Hollywood 411. Ella lives in Manhattan.

– Ernest Schmatolla

The post ‘New York Fashion Week’ a Book by Eila Mell appeared first on lookonline.

Beauties, Freeks and Geeks

-By Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg & Photos by Isabelle Erb
OK. OK. We know how much every Fashion Week “insider” wants to get close, cozy and lovey dovey with all of the big editors (Anna, Andre, Glenda, Robbie, Linda, Cathy, ad nauseum) and the even bigger “name” fashionistas (designers, stylists, photographers) across the board (or in the case of FW, The Tents). Well, we’ve had quite enough of that. Now, for something new and different, we scoured The Tents (and beyond) during FW, with a sharp eye trained on bringing you something you might not have seen, heard, read about or even thought of before.

With all of this in mind, we’re bringing you a diverse array of fashion folk, we’re calling “the great undiscovered”. For this interesting and virtually unknown (up until now, that is) group, who really do place quite an interesting and signature spin on the categories of beauty, freek or geek (we know, but we’re leaving it up to you to draw your own conclusions), some of the most interesting looks, style and FW observations come.

DEBBY DE MONTFORD

Affiliation: Publisher, Editor, http://www.crapandcouture.com/

And, you are wearing … Silver gray, early 1950’s, fitted suit; very Bergdorf Goodman at that time. I’m channeling Christian Dior via Lucy Ricardo. The cuff is from Gerard Yosca; the pearls and the fur are from H&M.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … To me, glamor is sort of fading. Most of the designers are aiming at the 18-year-olds who go to clubs, or at most of the shows that I have seen, the clothes are for the society woman who has these mgnificent balls to go to, which I really do not think is the right way to go right now. We’re in a recession and I think that the idea is to sell beautiful, wearable clothes; not just to present a fantasy idea of that on a runway. Plus, if the clothing is expensive, it should not necessarily be timeless, but still high fashion and not something to be worn just once and then spend the rest of its life in the woman’s closet.

Move to Lincoln Center … Personally, I am unhappy, and the people that I have spoken to about this topic are also unhappy. For the most part, it becomes difficult to maneuveur around; not everybody who covers Fashion Wee has a limo, you know. Public transporation is difficult, because there’s no express that you can take anywhere. Then, there’s the NYC Crosstown bus, which is a joke. Lincoln Center is really not a place, I think, that has much to offer by way of relaxing between shows. Also, for the established designers, as well as the younger, less known designers, many of whom may want to show in their showrooms to do a presentation; well, some of these designers, especially the younger ones, may not get the traffic. I really feel that many of these younger designers will get stuck, and they will suffer, because to go from Lincoln Center all the way down to The Garment Center, is going to be hard and extremely time consuming. That’s truly how I feel, and I doubt that I am alone in what I think.

Trending the season … Skinny, skinny, skinny pants that you have to be 8 feet tall and anorexic to wear … lots of drab, dull colors, which could be a subconscious manifestation on the part of many designers right now, of the economy and the times … For example, at Carolina Herrera, the skirts are falling below the knee. Usually, when you’re going down into a depression, hemlines drop accordingly. Unfortunately, I hope that’s not going to fall true. But, we’ll see what happens.

DAVID ZYLA

Affiliation: Costume Designer, ABC TV’s “All My Children”

And, you are wearing … My oldest suit; Ralph Lauren; probably 15 years old. A custom-made coat from Grenfell, in an exclusive orange color, which I specifically asked them to create for me. The shirt is custom-made in Italy by Antichi Telai. I’m wearing a Charvet tie, Edye Jetta scarf and To Boot shoes.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … Fashion overall is probably at its most exciting point. It’s a time to re-invent; it’s a time to get back to real quality. I feel it’s a time to not follow a look or a trend, just because it is in, or follow a certain name because that name is in or popular, or puts a lot of advertising behind it. I think right now, it’s really going to go back to quality; what is right for a particular person and what that particular person feels attractive and good in, vs. to being simply a follower. I’m on my way to Tracy Reese right now, and to me, she’s fantastic and so right for the times. In all of the 20 years that I have known about Tracy Reese, she has always presented great, wearable clothes that show a great mix and something for everyone/ Each collection is unique and individual, and this is why I think that is one good reason why she has continually maintained and built her name and brand.

Move to Lincoln Center … I’m open to it. I actually began my career as a fashion designer, doing my own shows here at Bryant Park. And before that, we did the shows at Parsons. So, yes, I am open to and embrace change.

CARON BRYAN

Affiliation: Owner, Port City Models, Freelance Fashion Stylist, Writer, based in Portland Maine and Boston

And, you are wearing … BCBG Max Azria, little black dress and boots, Le Chateau accessories, Express fur piece (I’m like Michelle Obama), Chanel bag. I’m opening a division of my modeling agency in New York City soon, and I’m at FW because I brought 3 models with me who are doing some of the shows.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … I’ve been covering FW for awhile, and this season, especially, I see fewer big name designers showing at The Tents, and that’s good, because they’re allowing more emerging designers in. Generally, young designers don’t pay as much to show here, and this is giving them the chance to be seen, known and recognized by so many more press and buyers, vs. showing somewhere else. Also, the chic people are still chic and everyone loves fashion and frivolity. Everyone wants to enjoy life, and fashion is a way to express oneself and get away from the everyday, humdrum of counting pennies in this economy. But, in this economy, more and more people are buying vintage items and mixing in a few expensive, luxury pieces. For example, Michelle Obama is buying J. Crew and mixing in Jason Wu. Overall, I think that looking too luxurious is almost looked down upon at this moment. It’s all about people that can be creative and still look fashionable without being too showy or ostentatious.

Move to Lincoln Center … That’s going to be hard to get used to, especially considering the fact that the whole aura of FW is that it needs to basically be under one, easily accessible tent, and I’m not so sure that Lincoln Center is going to provide that. I love being here in Midtown Manhattan, and being close to the hotel and the apartment where I am staying. Just being close to the hub of everything is wonderful and exciting. Although the move away from Bryant Park is inevitable, I will miss Bryant Park. It saddens me a bit, but at least, FW will still be celebrated. Allowing FW to remain in NYC in one central location is good, because the event just wouldn’t be the same if all of the shows were held in a million, different off-site locations.

Trending the season … I love Miss Sixty’s 80’s theme, Rocker Chic, lots of black, but not depressing black; they’ve dressed black up with lots of great accessories.

DEREK WARBURTON

Affiliation: Publisher, Editor, www.dereklovesshopping.com

And, you are wearing …Comme des Garcons top, wild mink wrap by Northern Furs, Jeans (I don’t know actually, I just thought that they were hot), YSL boots, necklaces (wood, 18karat gold and diamonds) by Kara Ross, vintage Chanel, bracelets by Louis Morais (a gift), Burberry, 18karat gold vintage, watches from Hermes, Bulgari, Gucci, sunglasses by Bernard Willhelm

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … Well, it’s funny, because I’ve been talking about this, and everybody’s been interviewing me about this-I expected the clothes on the runway this season to be much more somber, and it’s surprising to me that there’s been way more fur and a lot of rich color mixed in with lots of metallics and layers. So, there is richness, even though the economy has gone bad. But, people need to cut back, and maybe not everyone is going to cut back on fashion. Well, maybe something else that they can cut back on could be coffee, for instance. Let’s face it, we all go to Starbuck’s, but now, we can all go to McDonald’s and get a McCafe for 69 cents and I think that’s why McDonald’s is right here in The Tents at FW. They’re trying to pick up on our kind of crowd. They already have their urban crowd and they already have their lower income crowd and they already have the crowd in Middle America. But, they don’t have us. They don’t have the more fashiony, NYC crowd, and it only makes sense for McDonald’s to capture and bring in this crowd, especially now that times are hard.

Now, I don’t have any money, but I’d rather spend what I do have on looking good and feeling good, vs. spending my money on a regular-tasting $5 cup of coffee, especially when I can get a really good cup of coffee for 69 cents. That makes sense to me. I haven’t really cut back on maintaining my interesting haircut, because I’m an artist and I love to look unusual, because I feel good that way. So, I want to have my hair looking chic. Before, I had razor stripes in my hair, but then, I said no, I can’t do this anymore. But, I have cut back on where I live and work; now, I live and work all in one place; downtown on Exchange Place. Basically, I think fashion is all about mixing right now. People cannot stop shopping. I have many friends who can afford basicaly anything that they want, but they feel guilty to just go out and buy everything and anything; they don’t want to be flashy anymore.

But, for me, if there’s a time to be flashy, this is it. If we don’t buy and we don’t shop, the economy is just going to go lower. But, while we’re still shopping, we have to keep in mind that we need to shop differently. And, on my website, that’s exactly what I believe in. I tell my readers to go to stores such as Ina’s Designer Re-Sale or to H&M, where the word “bargain” is the name of the shopping game. I wear a lot of vintage myself; I do buy re-sale, but I also go to Barney’s, especially during the sales. I mix it all up, buying thrift and buying luxury. For example, I might scope things out at Barney’s prior to the sales, and if I’m dying for something that is not on sale at the time, and have to have it right this minute, well, then, that is my investment. I’ve had to shop this way my entire life and I continue to shop this way now. Clearly, we all live from check to check, even though some of our checks are cuter than others. You know what I mean? I live from check to check, but my check is just cuter now than it used to be. So, because I am still not wealthy, I’ve just made choices to do things differently.

For example, if I go to dinner in Tribeca, I’ll order one cocktail, instead of two or three cocktails. I’ll have a cocktail or some wine at home before I go out to dinner. Then, I’ll walk home, rather than spend $10 on a taxi. It’s great exercise and I’m working off that dinner. So, all of this is about thinking about how I spend my money, but still not stopping to spend that money.

Move to Lincoln Center … The Tents are The Tents. The Tents are a classic. The Tents are and always will be, to me, at least, synonomous with FW in New York City.

MARKUS KELLEMAN

Affiliation: Freelance Fashion Stylist; Independent Film, Personal Shopper, Special Events

And, you are wearing … Aubrey Meade cape, Vintage fur by United States Furs, vintage gloves, H&M pants, Aldo shoes, Heather Huey Milliners, custom-made chapeau, eye-liner, naturally plump, pink lips (my lips are real; no Restalin or Botox; Angelina Jolie can eat it), custom haircut by a New Jersey lady. I’m all about New Jersey for hair. I just like to pump up the volume a bit. Do I dress like this everyday? Well, what I’m wearing today is a bit formal for me, but when it comes to FW, I always like to take it to the next step.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy: I think I’m a little upset this FW because in times of financial trouble, designers should strive to create and produce those special, one-of-a-kind pieces that never go out of style, especially those pieces that are just so over-the-top and funky. But, I didn’t see very much, if any of these kinds of pieces this FW; I think that too many designers this season just played it close to the vest and overly safe, so that the bigger stores will pick up their lines. I think that too many designers did not step up this season. Instead of going over the top, they were boring and uninspiring. I always want to see the new and different at FW; that’s what I come here for. But, I didn’t see much of that this season. But, I did like Diesel’s Black Gold show, which was just great as a commercial line. They always do fun, crazy stuff and I think that this season, the show was no exception. The furs were really phenominal and the models, hair, make-up and styling were as out there as always, which is Diesel’s signature. The fact that they stayed true to their roots, and showed everything in the way that they did, especially so much fur, even with all of the crazy PETA nonsense going on out in the street, is just great and made me feel good. I’m looking forward to seeing Untitled Love, which is another one of my favorite shows. They’re going green with lots of organic fabrics paired up with vintage embellishments (buttons, zippers), and to me, that’s a great move right now.

You didn’t ask me about the people walking around The Tents. To me, the majority of these people look derelict and demoralized. Very few people, if anyone, even dress up for the shows anymore. I think there’s just me and you and Rosemary Ponzo, and isn’t that sad. I have always felt that FW is such a great event to have fun and experiment, where everyone gets the chance to have their own style.

Move to Lincoln Center … Really pathetic. There’s just something so tender about FW at Bryant Park, and it’s not only so historic, but also so traditional, welcoming and iconic. While I do think that some designers – Marc Jacobs comes to my mind – are better suited to different venues aside from The Tents, per se, I also feel that for the majority of designers who show during FW (known and new), The Tents have become and are home. To now take all of these feelings and ideas and transpose everything away to another place, well, I don’t know if that work work.

CARMEN D’ALESSIO

Affiliation: Creator of special events at The Tavern On The Green, Creator of Studio 54 with Ian Schraeger and Steve Rubell

And, you are wearing … Bebe top, dress and belt by Dolce Gabbana, Aldo boots, fur and metallic bag

And, you are here because … I came today especially to see Cho Cheng’s show, which I loved, because of all of the very young clothes, especially the short skirts and bright colors. I adored the finale piece – meringue-colored evening dress. I want to grab a little bit of FW, because in two days, I’m leaving for Rio to enjoy ten days of Carnivale.

TRACY STERN

Affiliation: Salon Tea

And, you are wearing … Gilles Montezin haute couture gown. Any woman who wears this gown, which is so haute coutre in its feeling, feels so special; just like a fairy princess. Gilles is a close friend of mine, who recently came to NYC from Paris, where he worked with LaCroix. Vintage designer bracelet, YSL bag, Lanvin shoes.

And, you are here because … I came today to see another friend’s show; Cho Cheng. He always makes lovely jackets and they are wearable, but in a fun, spirited, never boring way. I liked the very short skirts that he showed, but I don’t wear anything that’s not underneath myk nee. I’m very ladylike.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … For me, if someone has style, that person can go into their clset and put things together in a unique, creative way. You have to use what you have in your closet, and then, add the accessories, but always pairing everything together differently. We all have to be respectful of the times. I have not really gone out and made a major purchase, except for shoes. I’ve definitely toned back

DEREK COCKLE

Affiliation: Professor, LIM (Laboratory Institute of Merchandising), The College For The Business of Fashion

And, you are wearing … Coat and pants from Banana Republic, “Sex Slaves” t-shirt by FCUK, Cashmere shirt, “looks like to came from Kmart, but it’s not; it’s Ralph Lauren”, Missoni scarf, shoes, “so old I can’t remember where they’re from”, tote bags, the store at LIM and various FW bags, drinking, “some type of vodka drink, but not a “Passionista”; rather, a real Martini-ista with olives from the cocktail lounge. Your boss gave me this”.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy … I think the worst mistake that most companies are making right now is trying to play too safe. I think in order for anyone to purchase anything, it’s going to have to be exciting, different, and something the consumer does not already have in their closet. It’s the “if I already have it, I’m not going to buy it” mentality. That’s it, period. And, I think from what we’ve just seen on the video screens here in The Tents this afternoon, Diane von Furstenberg has certainly gone in the right direction. The collection was wonderful. She just doesn’t seem to care and that is the attitude that people should have right now. Speaking of that kind of attitude, as I watched this show, I really was captivated by the fantastic hats. I immediately channeled Vivienne Westwood. I mean, where else would you find someone as eccentric as Westwood? She never reads magazines. She doesn’t watch television. She believes in researching from history.

Why not? I still believe that even in this economy, shoppers in general want so much creativity and fashion, but in a different way than before. They are going to be adding on to what they already have in their closet, but still, their add-on piece or pieces have to be things that are worth buying. Everything has to be fabulous, exciting, fresh and new. The customer is not going to be looking for the same, old, dull, basic things that they have been buying for God knows how long. The Gap, forget it. And, the feeling is everywhere. I was in London in December, and the stores were not only giving stuff away, but you’d buy one and get three. So, it’s not just in America, where people are feeling the recession.

But, I also think that it’s more to do with the same stores that it’s happening with here – stores such as Tommy Hilfiger and The Gap – American companies that have opened in London, for example, and are now starting to feel the thing that Europeans are much more fashion-oriented than they are prepared to be. So with this being said, I think that these stores are in jeopardy, period, worldwide, with the exception maybe of somebody like Ralph Lauren, who is selling a lifestyle, rather than pieces. He’s selling an image, which people have bought into for years now. As I’m speaking with you today, I’m reminded of a disappointing event, which happened to me when I first came to this country from London. In my first job in America, the principals weren’t interested in the fact that I’d spent seven years of my life, training to be a designer. All they were interested in was, “who sent you to Europe?” and “how much money can you spend on samples to knock off?”.

As a menswear specialist, I think that the most exciting menswear company is Rag and Bone. The designers there just happen to be English guys, who are married to American women. They’re really doing stuff that is edgy, exciting and still very wearabe and understandable. The one thing that I have to give them credit for is that the line is made in this country. They have opened up factories in the South, where the women were there, ready to work, and they’ve done it. So, the pieces may be a little bit more expensive, but everything is beautifully made, and they also do womenswear, as well. And, it is all different, yes.

JACOB IXCOLINE, ERLA IXCOLINE

AFFILIATION: Jacob, 17, HS student, soon to be at Parsons; Erla, 16, student at Art and Design

And, you are wearing … Jacob: Imported from India Twigs top, Genetic Denim jeans (“very comfortable; they feel like leggings”), Calvin Klein boots; Erla: Children’s Place top, shirt bought on the street, Genetic Denim jeans, Dr. Martens boots, home-made twine bracelet, baby pink manicure

And, you are here because … Jacob: This is our first time at FW. Our mother got us tickets to FW. I’m so excited. We’ve been to a few shows and noticed that lots of designers are using gold and feathers. We’ve seen so many glamorous things. Erla: FW is awesome. I’ve never been to something like this. Everything is so inspiring. I can’t wait to get to the next show.

BARBIE

AFFILIATION: Fashion Icon, Designer who presented her collection for the first time this season at The Tents, Creator of the pink, plastic editor’s bag

And, you are wearing … Everything vintage, from swimwear, to accessories, to the ponytail and make-up.

Thoughts on Fashion and the Economy: Darling, I have seen it all. Remember that even though I still look like a modern woman, I have been around for a long time. And, I’ve had several reincarnations. But, through it all, and even though the economy is hard right now, I’ve always believed that it is a woman’s right to have fashion, beauty and love in their lives. That’s the passion and zest for life. And, this is FW. There are beautiful and fresh collections from so many designers, established and new, and each one is making a personal statement about the ways they want their designs to be seen and worn. Now, for me, it’s all about color, color, color and lots and lots of fun.

-end

The post New York Fashion Week appeared first on lookonline.

Michael Kors



Michael Kors first made a name for himself as a sportswear designer, not only in the United States where sportswear was dominant, but also in Europe, where it had no special cachet. But for a while sportswear or the casual look had a run in Paris too.

Kors didn’t stop developing, however, and the news this season is that he has gone far beyond the sweaters, jackets, blouses, pants and vests that once were his signature. There are now soft and lively flower prints, many arresting (but not flashy) colors and, best of all sequin, dresses. It is a well rounded collection.

The dresses are a high note. Though there is no lack of spangles in many collections today. The Kors styles are simple, mainly shifts, with cape-back collars and other unobtrusive details for interest. The hand that made his sportswear wearable but not fussy continues its work with dressy clothes. So there are no big, swathing skirts or elaborate draped effects. It is possible to dress, for evening without resorting to complex designs that are difficult to wear and often look unruly.

One of the prettiest is a lemon-colored shift that glows like sunshine. But there are more familiar all black styles as well. The beige styles from his sportswear days have not vanished, but they are paired with purple flower prints, for instance. And jackets are embellihed with fur accents, such as stoles or collars. Muted shades like olive and smoke also appear along with the lilac and purple tones.

What is especially impressive is that a sportswear designer has been able to transfer his technique to dressy clothes without losing his skill for making designs that do not envelope the wearer in elaborate dressmaking details. His sequin sheaths are as calm and satisfying looking as his cashmere cardigans.

-Bernadine Morris

Anna Sui

Anna Sui is to the fashion world what tropical fruits are for the
Northern hemisphere: unusual for many, full of colors and flavor for
all, “something different”. Not everyone likes tropical fruits. But
they give out a sense of warmth and needed energy, no matter how
dreary the day might be.

With no less than 54 designs, Anna Sui showed once again her amazing
gift for creating clothes that are a jolt of intensity and vibrancy in
an otherwise subdued palette of colors and textures as seen throughout
the course of Fashion Week Fall 2008 . No other designer matched the
refined and exquisite explosion of colors she gave the audience
viewing her Fall collection: it was all an amazing display of
creativity. Miss Sui’s constant quest for deep cultural knowledge has
led her to give us today a presentation of a folk inspired collection
that works perfectly with her love for vintage clothing and a keen
sense for trendsetting that makes her always ahead of times, one that
many in the fashion world look at for direction.

Precise and intricate accents were found in each of the 54 designs:
flowers, velvet feathers, beaded work on dresses, iridescent fabrics,
multi metallic lame fabrics, refined embroideries, patchwork details,
jacquard, it was all there, a shower of refreshing and colorful
energy.The use of true pigments in the fabrics used made for a display
of colors like never before, even in Anna Sui’s previous collections.
“Angelika” showed the beautiful combination of bold teal and
in-your-face-orange, something seldom seen in fashion. The purses
seen were as colorful as the clothes, with long fringes reinforcing
this bohemian-gone-to-town look.

Ultramarine was at its purest expression as were teal, purple, violet
and plum. The richness was to be found in the use of either plain or
burnout velvet (I counted 31 different pieces of clothing made of this
fabric) of the darkest black that helped ground almost every design in
giving out the desired effect that Miss Sui likes the most: a chic
bohemian look with just the right touch of elegance and good taste.
There was no distinct difference to be found between day and evening
wear. The designer leaves it to the wearer to take the bold step to go
out there and blend borders that, after all, have become dated and not
really needed nowadays.

Miss Sui is gifted in the sense that only she seems capable of
creating clothes that, despite their intensity and their richness, are
alluring and make the women who wear them seem uplifted and be an
uplifting sight to others. This time again, the clothes hung perfectly
on each of the models sporting them, a true testament to the fact that
Anna Sui is also a great technician that knows exactly how a design
should be tailored to fit. As a result, the clothes and their lush,
rich mix become living and pulsating frames that surround perfectly
the women wearing them. This was a constant fact through the whole
collection.

Today’s runway show was like an epiphany, the result of a continuous
and successful growth, the growth of Miss Sui’s own creative
expression as well as her success as a fashion designer. She has a
huge number of devoted and exclusive customers/fans, and has succeeded
in becoming a cult brand in a very few number of years. Each season,
her runway show is one of the most anticipated and draws crowds. Anna
Sui’s collections are sold in over 30 countries, the proof of an
extraordinary and well deserved success for the girl from Detroit who
launched her brand name in 1980 and who, for years, worked out of her
apartment.

Seen in the front row were Mr. Russell Simmons (co-founder of the
pioneering hip-hop label Def Jam, a founder of Russell Simmons Music
Group, and the creator of the clothing fashion line Phat Farm and the
fragrance label Atman) as well as Ms. Ally Hilfiger, daughter of Tommy
Hilfiger and who was once featured in the MTV reality show Rich Girls.

-Muriel Triffaut

Prada Party

Tuesday night was the screening of “Trembled Blossoms”, an original animated short, was unveiled Tuesday night in a private screening at the Prada Broadway Epicenter, the flagship store. This 4-minute film is an extension of an on going project of fashion designer, Miuccia Prada, in collaboration with architects, filmmakers, designers, and photographers.

In the Spring Summer 2008 Women’s collection that debuted in Milan last September, Miuccia integrated fabric design, a fashion show environment, site specific murals and photographic sets with the fashion show. What started as ink drawings that depict a lush landscape of flowers and nymphs evoking suggestions of Art Nouveau, Liberty, Audrey Beardsley and Heironymus Bosch have become fabric designs, wallpapers and now, an animated short. (A selection of wall papers is currently on display at the Architecture and Design gallery at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.)

This animated short is part of Prada’s commitment to experimental design. For the past 7 years, Miuccia Prada has commissioned temporary, architecture- specific wall papers, environments, short animations and interactive media for Prada Epicenters in New York, Beverly Hills and Tokyo. It is indeed admirable for a fashion designer to touch different forms of media, much like Paul Poiret during his time. Using cutting edge technology, the house of Prada is surely cementing its way into fashion and art history. That, or Prada is going Hollywood!

Great space. Great party. A good mix of people arrived around 10 p.m. to catch several screenings of the film. At 10:30 p.m., CocoRosie performed, while DJ Jeffrey Tonnesen spun music throughout the evening. Actors and actresses mingled with the cool fashion crowd – Angie Harmon, Dylan McDermot, Eric Murciano, Vincent Gallo, Amy Smart, Rose Mcgowan, Ginnifer Goodwin, Eliza Dushku, Paul Dano and Milla Jojovich

-Anna Bayle

R. Scott French

Menswear designer, R. Scott French gives good fashion for guys. Maybe because French is the kind of man who only writes with a Sanford Uni-Ball Micro Pen (black, of course). The designer also believes that “the perfect color is one that, when looked at by 10 different people will be called 10 different names” and that “floral shirts and tartan plaids are two essentials in the modern man’s wardrobe”. Well, keeping these thoughts in mind, it is easy to see why French’s perfectly stylized clothes, which were shown by a groovy group of “real” models and “model” hopefuls from the Bravo’s, “Make Me A Supermodel” and FUSE TV’s “The Sauce”, made such a statement on Sunday’s runway presentation.

Catering to a broad array of well-heeled, upwardly mobile, young (and older, we’d like to think), gentlemen (professional to rockstars), French served up something for everyone. Three separate collections – Richard Harris Felt, Ltd., R. Scott French – had their place and really did the trick,showing everything from well-crafted, classically tailored, haute luxe separates, shirts, suitings and outerwear, straight through to over-the-top groupings, which focused on clothing featuring surprises, such as lots of mismatched color, unque shape, silhouette, patterns and lots and lots of esoteric detailing. Here, eye-popping hues, short, cropped pants, trousers, a sarong or two, wild jackets and toppers and some really cool tuxedo renderings totally hit the mark.

Overall, these are super clothes for guys from a designer who believes that the “perfect orange is Pantone #021C”. Oh and by the way, French’s goody bags, which were neatly placed under each guest’s seat. were nifty. Set within a perfectly fun khaki green tote bag (which this editor has been carrying around the shows ever since receiving it), the bag shows lots of catchy sewn-on “stickers”. Inside, just the right amount of usable “gifts”, such as a great music CD, some men’s grooming products and coupons for grooming “freebies” from well-known salons around town, and an interesting, new men’s magazine, added up to a very nice little “thank you for attending the show” from French to those buyers and editors that made it to the show.

– Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

The post Day 6: Reviews & Notes appeared first on lookonline.

Donna Karan/DKNY

In her DKNY collection, Donna Karan”s clothes were all young and swingy. For her regular collection shown a few days later, her clothes were mainly calf length or longer. They often had wide open necklines and the models all wore snugly fitted caps, usually black They fitted like turbans. Long and lean and quite sophisticated was the effect.

Predictably, black was dominant but there were some combinations like black with purple or green or royal blue. Would this long, skiny line dominate or would women prefer the short swingy DKNY look? It will be interesting to see if women are ready for long, skinny and sophisticated. Marc Jacobs seems to think so. But it’s a far cry from blue jean and flip-flops.

Ralph Lauren

Never mind being known as a brand. Ralph Lauren has become an icon. His clothes are always distinguished whether they are Western in style or formal. But this time he has outdone himself. He has introduced a fresh shape, often in coats, that is lively, young and flattering. It gives his collection a certain verve and a cohesion.

Basically it is a neatly fitted silhouette that whooshes out into fullness a few inches below the waist. It looks easy to wear as well as comfortable. It”s not the collection”s only theme, for there are also hand knit sweater jackets, suede jackets and dresses in the same fitted and full shape. But the fitted and full coats are so attractive and beautifully done that they give the clothes a special look. It is sure to give the Lauren clothes a special look this season.

He hasn”t forgotten about long evening dresses. They are usually black (velvet, satin and organza) and are long, svelte and imposing. They add to the special quality of the collection.

Ralph Rucci

Perhaps the most exciting thing of the week of showings was the reception given Chado Ralph Rucci. A standing ovation, no less. It was worth it. For these are the best clothes shown anywhere in the world. The craftsmanship is meticulous. It can’t be duplicated, even in the French couture. It is extraordinary that these clothes are produced in this country, with their basic simplicity, and elaborate working of fabrics. It is dressmaking of the highest art. We are fortunate to have these clothes in this country. It gives a special glow to New York’s fashion week.

The post Notes from Bernadine Morris… appeared first on lookonline.

Thank goodness designers are NOT on the same wavelength and are not ALL doing the same exact thing. (How dull that would be?) Even though there are times when it seems that way (what with all the furs, fur trims, fur hats, hand knits, short dresses and boots, black opaque satin Wolford tights, etc.).

The way I see it, (and the way retailers love to see it too) there’s room for many voices and many interpretations. When I view collections from a personal point of view, I tend to see them in terms of which particular niche they could conceivably fit in my life. Who wants an entire wardrobe of just one thing not matter how much you love it? It’s up to the customer to figure out what her individual needs are; which things best suit her look, her needs, her lifestyle, her age, her body type, her mood. In the final analysis, it’s all about having a sense of what’s appropriate.

Without a doubt this has turned out to be a major fur season (both off the runway and on)…it’s as if the designers showing fur were praying to the heavens above, for severely cold weather to create the perfect frigid environment in which to show their pelts. Well, as they say, be careful what you wish for because they got it in spades. And one designer who has been on the forefront of changing the perception and image of fur, treating it as any other luxurious fabric is Gilles Mendel. And he did not disappoint this season. He said he wanted to “create a sportier feeling” and “break all the classic rules”. To achieve this end he mixed lame with wool, patent with chiffon, mixed ‘savage’ furs (like nutria and fisher) with precious ones (like sable, mink, and chinchilla).

He worked fur with fabric (black and white tweed or black wool) and he worked fur with fur (or furs). He showed what is turning out to be the ‘coat of the season’, turning up in one form or another on many runways- a shiny black patent belted coat. He quilted grey broadtail and tailored it into a coat, to which he added a massive silver fox hood. And massive fox hoods were unexpectedly added to several dreamy, floating evening gowns including a black pleated silk chiffon and satin beauty which had a black fox hood and were belted with a black satin obi trench belt. By the way, satin obi trench belts were used throughout, evening on gowns, to create a defined waist.

Of the 54 looks that came down the runway at Badgley Mischka, at least half were day time, or at least mixed day and night. Certainly a far cry from seasons ago when the popular and dashing duo, (Mark Badgley and James Mischka) known for dressing socialites, celebrities, and stars on the red carpet, showed only cocktail and evening clothes. Well, that was then and this is now and they have evolved with the times and moved on. The 2007 fall collection, which included items from Badgley Mischka Platinum Sportswear, Badgley Mischka Platinum Evening, Badgley Mischka Couture, Badgley Mischka Furs, was all about a sporty, toned down approach to luxury. The models’ hair was pulled back into a slightly messed up chignons and they were fresh faced and minimally accessorized. It was polished and elegant. Skirts were short and paired with boots or high heels; pants were both generously cut and menswear inspired, or streetwise and skinny. Menswear fabrics like chocolate glen plaid, coffee tweed, and smoke tweed were offset with chocolate Persian lamb, mink, and fox.

For evening, the colors were primarily black, worked against jewel tones: amethyst, navy, hematite, platinum, anthracite, smoke gunmetal, and gold. A short sold shift had an overlay of net (overlays were a pervasive theme), and the group of long gracefully floating empire waist gowns in georgette and satin were trimmed generously with sprays of silver crystal embroidery resembling liquid molten silver or featured jewel encrusted necklaces or bodices.

Vera Wang’s poetic, romanticized and beautifully executed fall vision, was very ‘Vera’ in its juxtapositions and its downplay of overt luxury. Never one to go the traditional route, she has always been one to mix day and night, hard and soft, masculine and feminine. The fall collection was all about “throwaway elegance” (the way she herself dresses) and indeed it was opulent and deconstructed at the same time. Vera said she was inspired by 20th century Russia and the survival of its people, and to this end, she offhandedly mixed military uniforms, primitive shapes, and opulent decorations which played out in a typically somber, mousey color palette (brown, black, khaki, forest green, olive, charcoal, navy, and gold). There was no color except for a red babushka shown with a jeweled evening dress. (Vera used oversized babushkas to cover the heads of many of the models).

It was opulent and deconstructed at the same time. Vintage inspired Russian insignia military buckles were added to distressed leather and crocodile belts; taffeta fencing jackets had padded peplum linings to add to the shape. Jeweled medallions were affixed to heavy brown leather boots. The amount of layering was dizzying, and it was an obvious attempt to create the proper look and mood. It was beautiful with some amazingly tailored and constructed pieces. But having said that, the overall effect was rather self conscious and contrived, and it’s hard to imagine anyone over the age of 20, who is not 6 feet tall and 105 pounds really pulling this off. (By the way, there were many sleeves tunics and dresses and one model’s arms were visibly thin enough to quality as borderline anorexic).

Hanii Y and Gene Kei, the duo behind Y & Kei, claimed they were inspired by a “visit to Australia, specifically the patchwork-effect architecture of the Federation Square building in Melbourne” for their fall collection. The 41 piece fall collection concentrated on black, navy, plum, hunter green and grey with hits of red, silver metallic and gunmetal. The mainly cocktail into evening dresses (and separates) was filled with their signature rosettes and origami details, and featured bubble hems, skinny pants, and novel uses of fur (like the black sheared mink knee length coat with short puffed sleeves and the dove grey sheared mink jacket with rosette collar and flyway back). Unsurprisingly, it was the simpler pieces (and some of their coats) that were the most successful: a navy silk jacquard bubble coat; a short sleeved dove grey cotton taffeta over coat shown with a black turtleneck; a pale grey cotton moire collarless coat dress; a charcoal metallic cotton strapless cocktail dress. The dusty pink silk evening gown at the finale was cut with the simplicity of a nightgown.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Other Shows:

Zac Posen

It was the usual packed house on Thursday night as Zac Posen presented his Fall/Winter 2007 collection in the tent at Bryant Park. Photographers overflowed the runway as they rushed to catch a glimpse of celebrity guests including Russell Simmons, Sean Combs, Rachel Bilson, and Giada DeLaurentis. Each seat contained a chic black bag filled with Mac cosmetics and L’Oreal hair products.

Zac’s focus for this season was on “architectural tailoring” and “exquisite femininity”. To accomplish this he led off the collection with precisely tailored coats, jackets, dresses, and pants, each of which was designed to be contoured to the shape of a woman’s body. Almost every look emphasized the waist in some fashion, even his utterly charming, swingy organza dresses. The color palette was predominately black throughout the collection, with the exception of a few pieces in rich dark colors like plum or olive and a standout white sable/goat stole jacket. Zac saved his most ornate flourishes for his evening wear, closing the show with an elaborate, full skirted dress called the Navy/Black Iris Gown.

-Rhonda Erb

The post Viva La Difference! appeared first on lookonline.

Yesterday was a day of designers doing what they do best. Michael Kors was completely in his element with a collection predicated on the idea of ‘Sporty American Luxury’ (what else is new?), which is something he knows a thing or two about. (Didn’t Michael invent the genre?) He may not have ‘reinvented the wheel’ with the rather familiar vocabulary, but so what? What’s wrong with doing what you do best and reworking your biggest hits?

To a quick paced soundtrack, the models (men and women) jaunted energetically down the runway looking sporty, rich, and happy. Members of the ‘jet set’. Everything about the clothes shouted ‘luxe sportif’ from the earthy neutral shades that could best be described as typically fall like, to the gutsy fabrics (tweed, herringbone, wool melton, cashmere. Outerwear shined (no surprise there) and Michael’s coats were stellar. They were all short (meaning above the knee) and ranged from classic pea coats and steamers, to swing shapes. There were also sporty anoraks which were often juxtaposed with something unexpectedly more dressed (like the olive cotton anorak paired with a gold floral bronze metelasse skirt and orange cashmere pullover) for that ‘day for night’ effect.

Pants were shown in a variety of styles: sweatpants, cropped pants, classic trousers, and lavish fur trimmed cuffs, collars, and hems. And speaking of furs, they were a major statement here as in most other runways thus far (with the exception of Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs). Furs were flying down the runway – fur hats in a variety of shapes and pelts; lavish fur trims on cuffs, collars, and hems; fur vests, abbreviated shrugs, jackets, and coats. There was fox, mink, rabbit, sable, and broadtail. There was a nutria toggle coat, a broadtail swing dress, a paillette fox coat and a crowd pleasing knee length black lacquered cheetah brocade coat. PETA be damned! By the way, if they were to stop by the Tents, they would surely be aghast at all the fur clad guests. In a case of life imitating art, there are as many show goers wearing furs as furs being presented on the runway. (Hey, if you’re not going to wear them this week, with the dipping temperatures, well when? There is still nothing as warm.)

Almost nobody does cashmere like MK (his yarns and weaves are thick and luxe) and cashmere pieces showed up as dresses, cardigans, pullovers, serapes. There were also hefty cable stitch hand knits done in luxuriously voluminous shapes. The bags were statement makers, from large structured satchels with bold gold hardware, to enormous ‘jet set’ metallic duffels. The footwear of choice was a high heel (pump or boot). While the collection was decidedly geared towards daytime (or the mix of day and night), evening wear was not forgotten. There were short paillette and fringed dance dresses in addition to several floor length entrance making gowns: a coffee strapless chiffon, a coffee crystal beaded jersey asymmetrical gown, and a black crystal beaded jersey one shoulder ‘Goddess’ gown. I could easily envision Melania Trump (sitting front row center with ‘The Donald’) wearing any of those to a big gala in New York or Palm Beach.

Peter Som’s nicely done collection was inspired by “the seductive beauty of orchids, mixed with the bold confident strokes of John Singer Sargent paintings”. So it was not surprising to find orchard and petal print t shirts, blouses, shirtdresses, and lame dresses. Like Michael’s, this collection was strongest with regards to the day pieces (though there were several short cocktail numbers and two gowns at the end), and the knitwear looked especially good. especially the cashmere and hand knits (too bad there weren’t more of them).

I especially like the charcoal cashmere short sleeve sweater worn with a paler grey worsted wool narrow pant. There were also some interesting broadtail jackets and coats with great shapes that were embroidered to add another dimension and one black ‘Teflon’ coated trench that was given a boost of color from the fuchsia chiffon shirtdress underneath and chartreuse belt over it. Le Smoking is another genre that was touched upon — there was a black smoking suit with a while silk and cashmere organdy blouse, and a black and cashmere organdy tuxedo blouse shown with back sateen fitted tuxedo pants.

Vivienne Tam was ambitious to dedicate a collection to Paul Poiret, the genius who is one of her favorite designers and who will be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in the spring, (“Poiret: King of Fashion”, May 9 – August 5). In her program notes she observed that they shared a “passion for delicate details, striking color coordinations and various cultural elements.” Certainly, Poiret was known for his experimentation with Orientalism. For fall, it was her aim to take the classic shapes made famous by Poiret and add her signature details (ribbon embroideries, beading, cut outs).

The 45 piece collection started with a group of cheongsams with slash treatments and dresses (mainly simply cut, narrow columns that just covered the knee) continued to dominate the lineup. Ms. Tam is known for her inventive cuts and one cream wool melton a-line coat with geometric square details down the front was interesting. It was the 6 or 7 pieces that really stood out, including a black heavy satin quilted trench with skeleton embossed in the back shown over a dragon embroidered netting dress and a gold leather hooded jacket paired over a gold leaf dress with copper sequined overlay.

By the way, each seat had a run of show (in red) and a red t shirt tied with a ribbon. Great, I thought….I love red! It wasn’t until I got home that I noticed it’s emblazoned across the chest with “Year of the Pig” in gold letters. Gee, thanks a lot!

You always know what you are going to get with an Anna Sui show. It’s always a colorful, girlie romp, dizzyingly accessorized to the nines and this season was no exception. Winter sports and ski were a reference point and she used active sportswear pieces layered to the max with a myriad of dresses, furs, and hand knits. It had a 60’s vibe (another favorite of the designer). Anna did not abandon the dress and used it as a layering piece in a variety of ways.
There were parka coats and anoraks, knitted cardigans, ski jumpsuits, chunky cable knit sweaters, smock dresses, conversation prints, florals, patchwork furs (courtesy Adrienne Landau), crochet pieces, metallic chiffons, ostrich trims, and brocades. Cozy gray wool tights covered the legs and the footwear was mod inspired and low heeled. The models wore multiple chains and pendants around their necks, and the hats were the stars. There were knitted hats (some with large paillettes) and big fur hats.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post New York Fashion Week – Day 6 appeared first on lookonline.

Michael Vollbracht’s collection for Bill Blass yesterday was by far his best since taking over as head of design for the veritable label. The crowd pleasing show (he even received a standing ovation), was not only upbeat, well edited, and fast paced (it’s obvious that he has listened to critics in the past), but he hit all the right notes and came the closest to evoking the mood and spirit of the late Mr. Blass.

Several outfits were described as ‘Halston-like’ or ‘Norell-like’ and in his program notes, he explained why he is ‘obsessed with the two legends”. As he put it, he “fell in love with his (Norell) sequined mermaids years and years ago when I was a very young designer.” And Halston? “because his simple philosophy looks so good in this era of over-designing”. And he continued: “And of course Blass – because it is my job to knock him off”. Michael not only has a sense of humor…but he’s honest.

Like Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam did a complete about face from the previous season, but unfortunately with less successful results. Known for his classically based vocabulary predicated on the idea of ease and sporty elegance (not to mention his talent when it comes to outerwear and trench coats), the fall line was puzzlingly routed in the hard edged 80’s with more than a touch of tough chic and Nicolas Guesquiere for spring 2007. But instead of looking modern or futuristic, it looked contrived and very difficult to wear (extremely short skirts some of which were shown with bare legs and given the temperatures outside, they not only looked strange but seemed unbelievable).

Not surprisingly, the best pieces were the simplest – including several day dresses, coats (a white tech sateen trench with anthracite cashmere felt and black and white wool Sherpa lining which was worn inside out; a banker’s grey and light grey felt flannel pea coat), and two simply beautiful gowns that closed the show; one in white and the other in French blue with a hood. Too bad there weren’t more of these.

Doo.Ri has certainly earned the name, “Jersey Girl”. The inventive fall collection, built around her signature fabric (silk jersey), was an evolution and continuation of the award winning designer’s ongoing experimentation with draping, and her love of a curved hemline for tunics, blouses, and dresses. Actually, the dresses and tunics looked one in the same since they were the same length, and she proposed them over skinny pants or thick opaque Wolford tights and a black wedge sole shoe which blended into the stocking so you couldn’t tell where one started and the other began.

Some of the tops featured bra like construction and many featured arrestingly cut out backs and layering. Doo.Ri also continued her love affair with suspenders (using Swarovski crystals to decorate them on an emerald jersey dress). Colors were unusual, interesting, and quite flattering and they all looked great played against black – her basic neutral. There was navy peacock, evergreen, emerald, and Bordeaux. And by the way, you didn’t expect a Doo.Ri collection to be without a trenchcoat did you? Of course not. And in fact, a full black wool trench shown over a silk halter dress with an organza hem, started the show.

Narciso Rodriguez was held on 26th Street right off 11th Avenue (which seemed to be the coldest place on the planet last evening thanks to the wind chill factor hitting the far west reaches of New York). After the paparazzi got their fill of Rachel Weisz, Claire Danes and Jerry Seinfeld, the show finally began (only 40 minutes late which by fashion standards is on time).The collection was a welcome palette cleanser and very signature Narciso. It was also testament to the way in which certain seemingly simple things (a pared down color palette of black, white, ivory, camel, grey, and especially the combination of black and white) can be so powerful. Narciso’s architectural, minimal designs looked especially good after days of fashion shows presenting dizzying (but not necessarily notable) ideas for next fall. His were lean, minimal, chic, and completely wearable with nothing gimmicky or tricky. And it looked pretty darn good. Pared down to white, ivory, camel, black, navy, grey, with a touch of emerald and turquoise (in the form of ski inspired anoraks), there were all the signatures one comes to expect from Narciso. There was hardly an accessory in sight and not one fur was presented.

Pants were very narrow and elongated, the jackets were boxy and hip length, and the coats (which are always the best pieces on the line, especially for fall/winter) came in three lengths…above the knee, slightly below the knee, and ankle length. And the latter were the true standouts and the highlights of the collection. Even though I like short coats for practicality, I must say that the military inspired white and black wool coats with sculpted collars, wide self belts and sweeping hemlines, worn over narrow pants and boots, made the short coats look insignificant. Not to mention that considering the frigid temperatures, seem especially attractive right now!

Just a note: In case you were unaware that designers tend to give away seats to those who have no connection with fashion whatsoever – this is a true story. A friend of mine, a fashion writer, told me she got a standing ticket for a specific designer (I will not name names)…even though she successfully interviewed this person. When she got to the show venue, she happened to look at some of the names on the seats..and found one for a person at a specific nail salon. I guess the designer uses their service quite a bit, but regardless. The nail salon employees should not be given priority over insiders and fashion pros in my opinion.

Another note: I was reading Cathy Horyn’s review of Marc Jacobs in The New York Times today and she ended it with, “If you felt like ditching your layers, it was no accident.” Ironically, this is not the time to ditch layers but to pile them on. It was exactly one year ago that Marc proposed the urban nomad layers (not to mention the oversized fur and knitted hats) for his fall collection and I remember thinking how great it looked and how practical it would be for running around the city in the freezing cold. Well, this week was the perfect time to put those layers into work and it worked for me.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Other Shows:

Heatherette

“Over the Rainbow” was the theme of the Fall 2007 Heatherette fashion show, but that can only begin to describe the crowd-pleasing extravaganza that took place in the tent at Bryant Park on Tuesday night. First there was the scene on the runway as celebrities like Carson Kressley, Alan Cumming, Kelly Rowland, and others made their way to their seats. Accompanying them was a random assortment of characters including someone with an oversized, irridescent, hot pink bouffant and a gentleman who remembered his top hat but forgot his pants.

Then the real show began, everyone was provided with a pair of hot pink 3-D glasses, the better to see acrobats somersaulting on the runway to introduce Traver Rains and Richie Rich’s collection. There was a large rainbow colored scarf draped toga style, and dresses made of blue gingham tiered ruffles and what looked to be foam shaped into a bubble. Other pieces included white glow in the dark t-shirts emblazoned with quotes from the Wizard of Oz and a tasteful one-piece bathing suit in pale pink.

The eagerly anticipated finale featured children in ballet tutus heralding the arrival of Glinda the Good Witch of the North (Amanda Lepore). Finally, Rains and Rich made their appearance escorted down the runway by Kimora Lee Simmons.

I’m sure that I’ve omitted many pertinent details of the Heatherette experience. Lets just say that a good time was had by all and you simply had to be there.

-Rhonda Erb

The post New York Fashion Week: Day 5 appeared first on lookonline.