Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style by Andre Leon Talley is a companion piece to The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) exhibition (February 5 – May 3 of this year), the first posthumous retrospective of the designer. The book consists of a foreward by Anna Wintour, and prefaces by President and Founder of SCAD Paula Wallace, Mercedes Bass as well as Huma Abedin. Hillary Clinton’s long time political aide describes the stress free process through which Oscar designed her dream wedding dress (the stress must have came later when she realized she got the nightmare of “peter-tweeting” husbands)!

Photo: Getty Images

The main section is an account by Talley, the curator of the exhibition while the last section features a look at the dresses that were on display. As we all know De la Renta designed for some pretty special women including First Ladies, movie and television stars, socialites, and singers; looking through these pages is like being transported back to a time in history both older and more recent. What all of these women had in common is that in an Oscar de la Renta dress they felt “confident, beautiful and comfortable.”

There are nearly seventy dresses included here with 100 color and black-and-white illustrations making this an impressive gift or coffee table book. ODLR’s trademark flourishes include flamenco dancer inspired ruffles, (he himself was a great dancer and singer), bows, exquisite often colorful embroidery, simple yet flattering silhouettes and of course, luxe fabrics, all of which he would combine to produce his unmistakable couture garments.

Talley describes how he was befriended by Oscar and his first wife Francoise at a time when he was young, “tall and skinny then, very elegant” if he does say so himself. It is clear that Talley was not only a close friend to the de la Renta’s, he became something of an honorary family member. Talley details the friendship which began through an introduction by Diana Vreeland and continued throughout the designer’s life. Apparently Francoise was quite amused by Talley’s first job as chronicler of nightlife for Women’s Wear Daily and used to call him each morning for the recounting of his adventures, as soon as he reached his desk. If he were to mention that he had dined with Halston or another “rival” he would sense her disapproval, he writes.

Sara Jessica Parker 2014 Met Gala Photo: BFA Photos

The De la Rentas’ invited Talley to their house to dine with their “glamorous European friends,” and were “concerned with my welfare, including my battles with weight.” Oscar also “cared if I seemed lonely so I spent many a wonderful, intimate evening with him and (2nd wife) Annette at their home in New York or in Kent, Connecticut at their Brook Hill Farm” he writes. Of course it was also a working relationship and Talley would often consult with De la Renta for his inspiration as well as his shows. He mentions a particular outing to the Smithsonian to view an exhibition of kaftans from the Ottoman Empire which became an inspiration for a dinner ensemble for Mercedes Bass.

Beatrice Lodge being fitted Photo: Getty Images

Perhaps one of the most interesting parts of Talley’s narrative is when he gives a glimpse into the wedding dress preparations as well as an insider scoop on the day itself for several brides including Anna Wintour’s daughter-in-law Elizabeth Cordry in June 2014, sadly to be one of his last such celebrations. Throughout the 20 pages of Talley’s narration of the book, he discusses some of the most important and high profile dresses in Oscar’s career including his oldest exhibited creation circa 1962 which was an LBD for C.Z, Guest; the Marie Antoinette dress for Kristen Dunst’s 2006 movie character; Laura Bush’s iconic blue 2008 state dinner dress as well as the haute couture Balmain wedding gown he created for his step-daughter Eliza Reed,(who now runs the company with her husband Alexander Bolen).

He got his first big break in 1956 by designing a debutante dress which appeared in LIFE magazine for Beatrice Lodge, daughter of John Davis Lodge, ambassador to Spain. He went on to a job at Balenciaga, and later in Paris at Lanvin in the early ’60s, and eventually came to the U.S., designing at Elizabeth Arden, then partnering with Jane Derby and eventually starting his own couture line in 1965 after Derby’s death. In 1993 he became the first Dominican to design the haute couture collection for Balmain (he stepped down in 2002) and in 2006 launched his bridal wear line.

Perhaps the most important thing I learned about Mr. De la Renta is that he was a great philanthropist and loved flamenco dancing, music, gardening and playing dominoes in his kitchen “with half the populace of the Dominican Republic” after everyone had gone to bed according to Ms. Wintour. Several examples of his philanthropy are cited by each of the book’s contributors.

Wintour, a well-known tennis buff, writes fittingly of the Oscar de la Renta Tennis Center near his house in Punta Cana. She describes how touching it was “to see all the ball boys dressed up for the occasion” having driven many hours to attend Oscar’s memorial mass. “But they were determined to pay tribute to the man who had helped so many of them financially especially with their education” she writes adding that she thinks of the clothes he designed as “genius plus love.” In her section Wallace recounts a story of how Oscar “donated bolts and bolts of exquisite fabrics for SCAD students to use, fabrics that he had commissioned for his couture designs–a priceless gift.” In addition, the designer awarded many prestigious internships for SCAD students, one of whom made a  video of her work for the exhibition.

Talley recounts how De la Renta was responsible for “personally supporting an entire orphanage in the Dominican Republic” from which he adopted his son Moises. The book almost becomes a hagiography as not a single even slightly provocative word is written about De la Renta, either as a designer or as a human being. That is fine however, as I don’t think that this particular book, seeing as how it focuses on the exhibition more than anything else, would be the place for a more honest tell-all. As I mentioned this is the first posthumous exhibition of his work, however there is an earlier book “Oscar de la Renta: The Style, Inspiration & Life of Oscar de la Renta” published by Assouline in 2002, (also with a forward by Anna Wintour) which would appear to cover much of the same ground as this one however I have not read it. I believe that is why this look focuses a bit more on the last 12 years giving it some fresh material. One other difference: the older book is $125 while this one is a bargain at $50.

As far as the impact that De la Renta has had on the fashion industry, he would definitely make the short list of the top 10 designers of the 20th century. His legacy is still being felt as Bill Cunningham included a homage to Oscar in this weeks’ The New York Times “Sunday Styles” featuring his distinctive and immediately recognizable flair for floral embroidered dresses worn by Jamie Gregory and others.

I would love to go to the September 23 book launch party (in stores this Tuesday, 9/15, also the day of his fashion show) at Rizzoli Bookstore (1133 Broadway at 5:30 p.m. and open to the public), however they seem to have forgotten that this is New York and there are many who observe Yom Kippur and are therefore unable to attend. For more info go to rizzoliusa.com .

– Laurel Marcus

The post Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style by Andre Leon Talley appeared first on lookonline.

The Charmed Life

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2012 Collection All photos: firstView.com

Designer Oscar de la Renta’s fall 2012 show, the first in his new venue, was a confectionary delight. The sophisticated designer was clearly targeting PYT (Pretty Young Things), with the prettiest form of charming colorations – rose pink, ice blue and white – jeune fille styles and decorations. all turned out in a very Oscar way.

Femininity reigned in pretty in pink decorative styles, such as a duo perfectly poised for the ballet, an ivory silk cable knit sweater with rose pink pendant printed silk faille skirt and dyed pink feather fox stole and a pale rose faille and filagree cotton guipure dress with rose cashmere turtleneck capelet. There were sporty shapes in pale colorations, après ski style cable cardigans, skinny pants and silver goat vests. Evening took a charming turn with frothy tulle ball gowns and flirtatious silk cloque and tulle draped styles. Tres charmant.

Oscar countered those with a gorgeous black and white story with couture level touches – gorgeous trompe l’oeil embroidery, beading, pleating and touches of fur. Case in point, a white paillette embroidered black brocade coat with silver fox collar which got the crowd’s attention and a black double faced cashmere and angora coat with white feather bijou pendant embroidery and mink collar which had them cheering for more. Suit looks included two variations, one a ruby embroidered tweed jacket over a ribbon tweed skirt, and the other quilted sable tweed printed crepe de chine coat and dress beaded to ultimate effect. Perfectly ravishing.

Oscar is never better than when he heads to evening and this season was no exception as he offered a duo of dazzlers in gold and silver, a lame and beaded fringe silk crepe de chine dress evoking the ‘20s and a gold bullion and bead embroidered glitter tulle gown with iridescent gold silk taffeta skirt, spelling money in the bank gold.

In a season in which decoration and finishing touches count, Oscar de la Renta is more relevant than ever.

— Tricia Kenney

Graphic Designer

Narciso Rodriquez Fall 2012 Collection All photos: firstView.com

Coats are making a big impact this season –they are more than just an outer layer, needed for warmth and protection — they are the pivotal piece in a woman’s wardrobe. So it was not at all surprising that Narciso Rodriguez would begin his 34 piece collection, shown last evening at The Theatre at Lincoln Center (friend and customer Claire Danes was seated in the front row) with the chartreuse bonded wool coat. A sculptural, unfussy, modern and a perfect example of what the architecturally grounded designer does best. I loved the way he experimented with shape and volume, using gutsy fabrics like bonded wool and wool felt, playing with off beat hues (chartreuse, petrol, loden, brick, tangerine, russet).

Especially notable was his use of graphic color blocking, which was a theme throughout. It appeared in several of his coats, showed up in his group of silk and wool dresses (using combinations of colors like tangerine or russet with brick), and even in his furs. There was an ecru and chestnut beaver cropped jacket and short coat, both of which were shown over graphic laminated tops. But perhaps the most interesting use of graphic color blocking was through his strong accessories: short napa gloves, suede/ostrich booties, which featured a pointy toe and high heel and were shown with bare legs, and handsome bags.

Abbreviated jackets in bonded wool or textured napa and flannel were cut close to the body and paired with lean trousers in wool and cotton; a wool angora tweed was used for a dress and a bustier, and for evening, instead of a predictable floor length gown, he proposed a bias skirt that was short in front and long in the back, paired with a laminated or embroidered top. The only problem was that a few models were obviously having trouble keeping their stiletto heels from catching in the long panel of the skirt as they walked down the runway. I guess we won’t see Claire Danes at the Academy Awards wearing of these on the Red Carpet.

The Naked Truth

Vera Wang Fall 2012 Collection Photos: firstView.com

You know David Barton’s advertisement, which admonished us to “Look better naked?” Well, lets just say that most of us need more than just a gym membership to truly achieve that goal, but I couldn’t help but think of that yesterday morning during the opening segment of Vera Wang’s fall collection, because the first 7 outfits out were rendered in head to toe nude – as if she were showing us an alternative way to achieve that goal and still remained clothed.

Now I have no idea what Vera looks like naked, but she did show the world quite a bit of her well toned bod in the February issue of Harper’s Bazaar, posing in a bathing suit and high heels in her new ultra modern and quite fabulous home in Los Angeles. She also admitted she is not really a high heel and swimsuit kinda gal, preferring to dress in signature black or gray layers (I think she referred to her look as covered up, a la Laurence of Arabia). Vera always injects a lot of herself within her collections and they always mirror her look. While black and gray appeared throughout her 39 piece collection which admittedly harked back to her artsy side, and focused on opposites attracting, layering, transparency, lingerie touches, the idea of clothing as protective soft armor, they were not the whole story.

In addition to the aforementioned nude, there were flashed of bright tangerine, (which looks great with nude I might add), and Dutch blue, that latter appeared as multi layered organza or silk chiffon prints. Very West Coast, I was thinking. And while there were a few melton coats and oversized parkas, not to mention massive raccoon collars, hoods and trims, many of the outerwear pieces were sleeveless, and layered over sheer, wispy chiffons and the collection as a whole, did not look as though it were geared for someone who had to maneuver around the city during a tundra, relegated to taking the subway to-and-fro. I guess we can assume that Vera’s new bi-coastal life has thoroughly impacted on her sense of style. FYI, when she took her bow at the end of the show, she was not wearing a swimsuit and heels.

I have to mention that I loved the models’ upswept up swepts, which looked like an impossible feat of aerodynamic brilliance. Styled by Paul Hnlon for Frederic Fekkai, the gorgeous Mr. Fekkai was sitting the in the front row taking pictures with his cell phone camera so I guess he was pleased with the results as well. Whatever product they were using had to be a magic potion. Sign me on!

Shine On

Naeem Khan Fall 2012 Collection All photos: firstView.com

I felt bad for Naeem Khan. He was named the “Mercedes-Benz Presents” designer this season, and some of his work was on display in the lobby of the tents alongside Mercedes-Benz’s new ML63 AMG SUV. He also made a special appearance at the February 9 Fashion’s Night In event, which formally kicked off the week of shows at the tents. He has traditionally shown on the last day of Fashion Week, but somehow, had the misfortune of being given the 2 PM time slot yesterday afternoon. Since the Rodarte show, held in a far west Chelsea art gallery, probably did not start until 12:45, many of those guests did not have time to get back uptown in time for Naeem’s show. The collection was inspired by the “decadence and dust of India: the body as canvas: from the Mughal Paisley to the Hindu Tilakas”. But, for whatever the reasons, there were plenty of empty seats that needed to be filled in at the large Theatre and many guests who had standing tickets, eventually got bumped up to the first row.

In any event, one almost needed sunglasses because the shine factor (deco, crystal, silver dome beading, mirrors, metallic threadwork, silver and gold pailettes, etc.) was so high. Naeem is, of course, known for his entrance making elaborately embellished designs, many of which unsurprisingly find their way on the backs of stars walking the Red Carpet. Suffice it to say that there were many such creations on display at the show.

–Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Casio Baby G-BGA-131

3D Movies, 3D Television, what’s next? The new 3D watch collection from Baby G. The watches come in black or white and have pop-art style 3D numbers. They have a UV-LED dial that glows with the push of a button plus they also have all of the other great Baby G features like World Time, a durable resin band and they are shock and water resistant.

Available in March 2012 at: Tourneau and select Macy’s stores, $99.00

Kingston DataTraveler SE9

This sleek little USB Flash drive will become your dream solution to storing all of your important computer files. It’s tiny enough to fit on a key chain, so you can always keep it handy and it comes in different capacities to suit your needs. The stylish metal casing is ultra durable to keep your files safe and secure.

Available at: http://www.amazon.com/ , $10.99
                                          www.facebook.com/kingstontechnology,

What would you store on your Kingston DataTraveler(photos, homework, etc.)? Tell us and you could win an 8G Kingston DTSE9. Click betterbetsonline@gmail.com  and tell us before 11:59 PM EST, February 21,2012. Twelve lucky winners will be chosen at random and notified by e-mail.

The post New York Fashion Week Notes appeared first on lookonline.

You Don’t Look a Year Over 29!

Michael Kors Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

I almost cannot remember back 30 years, when, as young fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, I first walked into Michael Kors’s garment center showroom. And while I certainly do recall that ill fated event years later, when, during the course of a formal runway show in a raw loft space, part of a ceiling fell on Suzy Menkes’ head, serving as a catalyst for what how has become a far more organized, centralized, and safe New York Fashion Week . Although, quite frankly, that one is hard to forget and I’m still convinced years later, that Ms. Menkes was spared serious injury thanks to her signature pompadour, acting as a buffer.

What I can recall, is how I felt when I first laid eyes on Michael Kors’s fabulously chic American sportswear classics; the way each piece was such a perfection of what it was meant to be, and how it symbolized the best in American sportswear. And now, 30 years later, that has not changed. Michael is arguably one of the most consistent designers in the world and that was the clear message on the runway at Lincoln Center yesterday, where the milestone celebration/fashion show, ‘30 years of American Luxury’, was staged before a huge and appreciate crowd. Unsurprisigingly, it was pure Michael throughout the 64 pieces shown for men and women and played out in a signature, beloved color palette — crisp black and white; crimson, platinum, smoke, and a range of make up in perfect flesh tones: blush, nude, and suntan (I was looking over at Aerin Lauder thinking she must be glad to see them as they would be perfect for her Estee Lauder ads).

The way in which day and evening were completely mixed together was very effective, with everything coming out at breakneck speed: cashgora bathrobe coats, felted flannel great coats, stretch cashmere jumpsuits, cashmere sweater dresses, sparkling crystal jersey dresses and jumpsuits, felted flannel reefers, felted flannel blazers, white silk charmeuse bodyshirts, knitted fox capes and coats, fox chubbies, double face tunics over trousers, jersey blouson dresses and halters, melton capes, etc. The strong message that resonated is that it all works, there’s a time and place for everything, and what looks good, always looks good. Yes, sharp tailoring is back, but so is languid jersey (did they ever go away?); the haberdashery menswear inspired great coat worn with a trouser pant has never looked better, nor has the crisp white shirt, or the dramatic cape and toga. Camel never loses its appeal nor does classic luxury (if you wanted to trade in your well worn camel hair coat for something a bit more luxe this season, how about that suntan colored belted alligator jacket?)

The accessories were minimal, in keeping with the pared down aesthetic of the clothes. While I’m a gold girl myself, I have to admit that silver does look clean and ultra modern and Michael was wise to go that route. It was very effective the way Michael used wide silver chokers and ultra wide silver cuffs, with the most menswear inspired outfits, quickly imparting a glamorous, ultra feminine feeling. Even the soles and chunky high heels on his sandals shoes and boots benefited from the use of gleaming silver. When Michael came out on the runway, Odyssey’s iconic anthem, “I’m a native New Yorker” played in the background. It was then that I understood why Anna Della Russo, seated in the front row, was wearing a gilt headpiece with what looked like two enormous apples (Get it? The Big Apple and New York?) I thought it was her way to celebrating being here. But when I saw her later, I realized it was two enormous cherries. Go figure.

By the way, in addition to the run of show, every seat had a handsome black leather case holding a pair of Michael Kors’s signature aviator sunglasses. How perfect since it was a sunny bright winter day.

Oscar’s Ottoman Empire

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

I don’t think there could be anything less minimal, than the collection shown by Oscar de la Renta yesterday afternoon at 583 Park Avenue. Ornate, colorful, exotic, and luxurious, with mind boggling fabric techniques, textures, and combinations, it was hard to tell which part was daytime because it was all so over the top. Prints and patterns were often mixed together; there was an abundance of furs and the use of exotic pelts, often mixed together, fur trimmed hoods, and lavish fur trims, There was ivory chenille and gold metallic threadwork, crewel threadwork, silver metallic leather and silver metallic foil, metallic Ottoman jacquards, beaded tassels, bugle beads, and it appeared that everything in the 60 piece collection, was embroidered. There was Moroccan Beni embroidery, patchwork embroidery, gold bouillon Bukhara embroidery, floral paillette embroidery, multi color and grid sequin embroidery, and embroidered multi color abstract paisley print velvets. Often times, all the above were used in one outfit (I’m just kidding of course, but I’m not too far off the truth).

Instead of Cristobal Balenciaga and his beloved Spain, it seems as though Oscar had more exotic locales in mind when he conceived the collection, (hardly new territory for the designer who is known for his love of exotica), and it showed up from beginning to end. For example, a black and white patterned jacket with tweed trim, was made of sequin embroidered silk organza, and shown with a dress the top of which was crystal embroidered wool crepe with a feather and Mongolian lamb skirt; another heavily embroidered jacket was worn with an abbreviated red fox skirt; an ivory and black sequined grid embroidered charcoal mélange jersey jacket with tweed trim, was paired with an ivory gazar dress with ivory and black sequin grid embroidered charcoal mélange jersey skirt. A chic, rather simplified yet graphic sleeveless shift was hand painted and sequin grid embroidered. And speaking of simple yet not, in a sea of colorful long gowns, there were two that really stood out: a multi colored madras print silk chiffon gown, and a very narrow strapless gown comprised of multi color sequin embroidered patchwork and paisley print.

But hands down, the real standouts, were the eye-catching coats, which appeared throughout in dizzying combinations, many of which were patterned, fur trimmed, and embroidered, and accessorized with ottoman jacquard fox brimmed Louz hats, massive coin or crystal necklaces, and black leather boots with metal heels. In one case, a frothy silver lame mousseline and pearl embroidered silk chiffon gown with tulle skirt, was shown beneath a black crewel threadwork Moroccan Beni embroidered ivory shearling coat.

Forget about the grunge look, or the looking ‘poor’ on purpose look. This collection was all about being rich and looking rich. Oscar doesn’t show on Park Avenue for nothing.

A Match Made in Heaven

On Wednesday morning, I attended an informal showing of design collaboration between Derek Lam + Ebay held at Alice Tully Hall. Whoever thought of it had a brilliant idea. Out of the 16 dresses which were shown on live models (iconic dress styles ranging from a black cotton shift dress to an elongated crisp white cotton poplin shirtdress) 5 of them (voted on by whomever wants to do so: http://www.dereklam.ebay.com/ ) will be available to purchase on Ebay on March 1, when the choices will be made public. The popular price points, $125 – $295, a fraction of the cost of anything on Derek Lam’s collection, should be a big selling point. By the way, I had a chance to chat with the designer and I asked if he had a favorite but he did not say. I then asked if he could vote and he said, “Yes.” When I told him I “live” on EBay, he said, “So do I”. Hmmmm, I started wondering what fabulous finds have served as inspiration for his most recent collection.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Gianni Rich Boots

Winter is not over yet. Gianni Rich Boots will keep your feet warm in style. This trendy footwear is a favorite of celebrities like Taylor Swift, Beyonce, Rihanna and Willow Smith. Win a pair of Gianni Rich boots of your very own by entering our giveaway.

Available at: http://www.giannirich.com/, Blue Wet Stone Boots, $230.00 Win a pair of Gianni Rich Blue Wet Stone Boots (click betterbetsonline@gmail.com to enter your e-mail address, remember to put “ Boots” in the subject line). Register your e-mail before 11:59 PM EST February 20, 2011. One lucky winner will be chosen at random and notified by e-mail.

The post New York Fashion Week Notes – Day 7 appeared first on lookonline.

Spanish Lessons

All photos: Randy Brooke for Lookonline.com

For the record, I wholeheartedly agree with Michael Kors who (according to www.style.com), took the opportunity during the course of his recent informal ‘pre-fall’ presentation, to plead with editors to come up with a better name for this season. In my opinion, it sounds like ‘pre-school’ and there surely must be a better term. As soon as I find one, I’ll let you know. That said, regardless of what you call it, designers both here and abroad are busy staging formal and informal presentations highlighting their newest creations, just months before the BIG FALL SHOWS in February. It certainly does feel as though the seasons are never ending, merging quickly from one to the next.

Oscar de la Renta is one designer who has traditionally staged formal runway shows for ALL seasons, including those of interim, mid seasons. And this time was no exception. While he broke with tradition as far as the time, showing at 2:30PM instead of 1PM, there was no surprise in terms of the venue, (583 Park Avenue) for his ‘pre-fall’ (hate the term) collection which was shown on Monday. Also unsurprising, was that the short, (59 pieces), to the point, well edited collection, (which was accessorized to the hilt with gold and onyx resin earrings; gold and topaz in addition to Plexiglas, wood, and crystal rondelle necklaces; gold, garnet cabochon and crystal pave rings; fabulously low heeled pointy toed pumps in addition to more predictable high heeled versions many of which were decorated or adorned with feathers), began at just a few minutes after 2:30PM and was over in approximately 20 minutes.

It was filled with the sort of rich, opulent, feminine, highly textural clothes for day and evening, that have come to define the seemingly ageless designer: open work cashmere butterfly stitch and cashmere silk cardigans; ribbon tweed skirt suits; stretch wool faille embroidered dresses; art inspired dip dyes and color blocks; ostrich and Bird of Paradise feather borders; plenty of gold foil and gold lame but used in rather elegant, sporty ways; the abundant use of threadwork embroidery; silk crinkle chiffon pleated dresses and gowns; sturdy outerwear (one navy and black bi color double face cashgora duffle coat stood out, juxtaposed over a black double face wool crepe, lace, and silk crinkle chiffon dress); and of course, plenty of fur (Chinese lamb, broadtail, sable, and fox), in the form of sleeveless vests as well as fitted coats. And it was colorful.

In fact, it was an endorsement of high voltage color and the show opened with a cashmere silk cardigan and stretch wool skirt in cactus (Kelly) green, followed by a silk crinkle chiffon blouse, cashgora jacket, and skirt in a shade of shocking pink so vivid, it would probably glow in the dark. The same shade appeared several other times, and was quite effective when used for a duo of silk crinkle chiffon dresses (both short and long).

Also not in the least bit surprising, was the unmistakable nod to the unmistakably Spanish themes underlying the iconic works of Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga: the voluminous infantas and dramatic gowns inspired by traditional cota de bolas; the use of cardinal (or scarlet) red and guipure lace; the matador inspired abbreviated bolero jackets; the lavishly embroidered florals; the sculptural outerwear, etc. Especially when you consider that Mr. ODLR worked for the famed designer early in his career, has always considered him a major source of inspiration, and conceived of ‘Balenciaga: Spanish Master’, the exhibit which is on view at the Queen Sophia Spanish Institute located on Park Avenue and 68th Street, just about 5 blocks north of 583 Park, where Oscar showed his pre-fall collection. (Oscar de la Renta is chairman of the board of directors of the Queen Sophia Spanish Institute).

Curated by Hamish Bowles, the exhibition is notable in that it is the first one to explore the impact of the rich history and heritage of Spain on the work of this famed creator. In fact, several weeks ago, I attended a small, intimate, and private showing hosted by The Friends of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the highlight of which was a discussion with Hamish Bowles and Oscar de la Renta, both of whom spoke of the impact that Spain’s rich traditions, culture, and heritage had on the works of Cristobal Balenciaga. The Dominican Republic born designer told me of his unending love affair with Spain, specifically citing the city of Madrid, where he lived and worked for many years. But most poignantly, when I asked him to give me a few words to describe his upcoming fall 2011 line, in addition to noting that his collection has never been as successful as it is right now, he said he hopes to create “pretty, beautiful” clothes.

Mission Accomplished.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2011 Show appeared first on lookonline.

FashionGPS sponsored report

Photo: Firstview.com
(Editor’s note: Calvin Klein and Ralph Rucci reviews online this weekend)

I loved Ralph Lauren’s collection, held at the Skylight studios on Hudson Street Thursday morning. While this may be an out of the way location for some, taking the fashion troops far from Lincoln Center, his showing at this space symbolically separates him from the pack (geographically and every other way). Plus, with a bus taking us from downtown up to Lincoln Center, we all got to Isaac in time anyway.

The collection played to all Ralph’s strengths and made the most of his wonderful way with mixing: soft with hard, rugged with delicate, ethnic with classic, day with evening, boy meets girl, etc. Every length and proportion was covered and it was not about that, it was about great pieces and putting it together with unabashed American joy.

Photo: Firstview.com

It was pure, quintessential Ralph (down to the neutral color palette – no brights and no black or navy), and it didn’t look like anybody else this season. You can always tell what the overall look will be by checking out what wife Ricky seated in the front row and schmoozing with the attendees is wearing. This morning, she had on a pale camel suede jacket with long fringe trim, accessorized with a massive Southwest Indian Native Indian belt. And sure enough, that was almost the exact outfit worn by the first model out (though she had on shorts with crochet inserts and a tulle embroidered blouse).

Photo: Firstview.com

There were cream deerskin beaded vests and jackets, serape striped linen jackets, palomino deerskin jackets and pants and one terrific fringed coat. Saddle suede tailored jackets were paired with off white cotton hand crocheted floor length skirts, and ivory hand crochet was a theme throughout (there was a wonderful below the knee length dress and knee length cardigan coat). An was an all white group in cotton pique and linen followed which consisted of terrific leg-o-mutton sleeved fitted jackets and frock coats worn with linen pants and cuffed shorts. A loose sand washed linen jacket was paired offhandedly with a natural distressed canvas jean that was heavily embroidered, and shown with an antique brown handmade braided fringe sandal.

In one instance, a serape striped linen jacket was juxtaposed over a beautiful cream tulle crinkle chiffon embroidered long dress with a train. A fitted lame jacket was paired with a beaded embroidered fringed pant, a saddle distressed leather jacket was thrown over a platinum lamé beaded slip dress, and a platinum tulle beaded long dress was pulled together with an amazing, wide vintage looking brown belt with fabulous buckle. Get the picture? Needless to say, there was a lot going on but thanks to brilliant fabrication, cut, execution, and styling, it worked!

September Showers Bring May flowers

Photo: Firstview.com

The heavens literally opened up right after Oscar de la Renta’s 5 pm 62 piece collection, held at 583 Park Avenue, got under way. And how fortuitous since in addition to natural silk linens, pretty silk crepe de chine blouses worn with wide legged pants, highly textural degrade tulle tweed pleated silk organza skirt suits featuring a cardigan jacket (like the one worn by Sarah Jessica Parker, who was seated next to Anna Wintour in the front row), mixes of graphic black and ivory in coats and jackets, sweet ivory cotton voile and black guipure lace embroidered dresses; and a finale of prom worthy pastel confections that came out with the 50’s jukebox favorite, “Yes I’m a Great Pretender” playing in the back, it was really all about flowers.

Photo: Fashionologie.com

The show, which had an unapologetically Spanish feel (Cristobal Balenciaga is a well known inspiration to the designer), opened with a natural silk linen coat whose hem was decorated with yellow silk organza flowers, and the model carried a beautiful bouquet in her yellow ostrich tote; multi color garden florals and posy prints abounded, and there was even a full skirted white silk gazar ballgown entirely decorated with red carnations, further accessorized with white gloves and high heeled satin sandals, which were also decorated with the carnations.

He’s So ‘Transparent’

Photos: Fashionologie.com

If there’s anyone more madcap, entertaining, exuberant, expressive, or outgoing than Isaac Mizrahi (or anyone who is better at ‘schmoozing’ for that matter), I’d like to know who it is. And if there’s another designer, who should be showing at The Theatre at Lincoln Center, I cannot think of one.

While his best designs are actually more classical than theatrical per se. The fiber of his being, his entire ‘shtick’ is entertaining and theatrical to the core. The multi-talented fashion designer starred in his own satiric cabaret show, Les MIZrahi, is a bona fide TV personality in his own right, has directed and designed costumes for the ballet, modern dance productions, and theatre (some of which were staged at Lincoln Center).

Photos: Fashionologie.com

Which is why it was interesting (or should I say, curious) that his noon time show on Friday, at The Theatre at Lincoln Center (which was called IM Xerox), was one of the least entertaining, theatrical, or madcap in a long time. I can recall several shows in the past few years, (one at New York Public Library and several at the Bryant Park Tents) that had a lot more pizzazz, and involved more staging, and actually rivaled a Broadway production. That said, the pieces that stood out among the 38 (it was really all about cocktail and evening wear, with the exception of a black pantsuit, and ivory belted ivory jacket worn with a skirt, and several pale shift dresses), involved the use of volume in the back, and the play of sheer over opaque: the use of see thru illusion and transparency (a big trend this past week). For example, a narrow black strapless short dress was covered with a longer black tulle overlay; a black and white abstract patterned dress with a cape back, had a black sheer top; an ivory sequined dress had a nude sheer top and enamel or plastic collar; a thigh length black strapless dress boasted a knee length glittery black sheer point d’esprit cage over it.

In addition to the aforementioned white plastic (?) collars, Isaac used white plastic cuffs that resembled shirt cuffs, which if you think about it, are quite inspired since it ensures they will stay forever clean! The shoes were all feminine pointy toed mules which were either flat, Sabrina heeled, or high heeled.

– Marilyn Kirschner

Simply Charming

Photographer and designer Monica Rich Kosann creates jewelry with a touch of old world elegance. This classic charm bracelet in sterling silver will become an instant keepsake. Build your own bracelet to tell your personal story.

Monica Rich Kosann Sterling Silver Charm Bracelet, Starting at $330
Available soon at Neiman Marcus Stores
shop.FineArtofFamily.com

– Rhonda Erb

The post In a League of His Own appeared first on lookonline.

It was a no brainer, after Miuccia Prada unveiled her lace laden fall winter 2008 collection in Milan several months ago, that lace would quickly find its way back into fashion’s favor and have a rebirth, if you will. Not that lace was in danger of disappearing, mind you, but let’s face it, when arguably one of the most influential designers in the world breaths new life into what is normally a demure fabric, dusts off the cobwebs that are normally associated with it, and basically builds an entire collection around it, it’s obvious that lace would find itself the center of attention. And as it turns out, lace (in a variety of incarnations) figured prominently in two events I covered on Wednesday.

Oscar de la Renta staged his 66 piece resort 2008 show, at what has become his new favorite spot, 583 Park Avenue. Looking relaxed and tan, he could be seen meeting, greeting, and mingling beforehand with a crowd that included editors (seemingly all of Vogue was there and Anna Wintour looked uncharacteristically sporty in a crisp white shirt, printed skirt – by Oscar I presume – and high heeled sandals), retailers, and social fixtures (though I have to report that the second row in one section had to be filled in at the last moment since apparently, a handful of guests did not show up).

The upbeat collection was pretty, it was ‘ladylike’, it was colorful, and it was filled with all the dashing designer’s signatures and favorites…,in other words, it was ‘very Oscar’. Among the recurring themes were matched and mismatched suits (many in silk shantung, wool and silk, cotton and silk); a myriad of blouses (some had attached scarves, some were sleeveless, others boasted interesting sleeves); the use of islandly shades of Caribbean blue, coral, emerald green along with more neutral ochre, eggshell, black, and white; prints (there was a phoenix print, a tweed print, woodblock prints, ikats, florals, abstract brushstrokes); wide legged pants; caftans; jewel like embroidery on dresses and sweaters; hand crochet knits; one shouldered cocktail dresses (little black dresses and printed dresses); the use of highly textured 3-d organza ribbon and pleated organza.

And there was lace: guipure lace, Chantilly lace, colored lace, lace overlay, and embroidered lace. (Of course, don’t forget that images of Oscar de la Renta’s ivory lace wedding dress, worn by Jenna Bush for her nuptials last weekend, were seen the world over). Standouts in the collection include a short white guipure lace empire dress; a white silk taffeta blouse with black Chantilly lace trim worn with a knee length Caribbean guipure lace peplum skirt; a short black guipure lace dress with a silk woodblock print embroidered skirt; an entrance making full skirted black silk organza and tulle gown with guipure lace bodice.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Amazing ‘Lace’ appeared first on lookonline.

“The flowers that bloom in the spring, tar la”….It did not take a rocket scientist to deduce that flowers, which literally bloomed all over spring 2008 runways, would later find their way into the following fall season. After all, in a season of prints and patterns, flowers of every variety and transformed into all colorations, were THE biggest story (in both ready to wear and accessories). They were certainly the big news at Balenciaga where Nicolas Guesquiere made florals look ‘of the moment’, ‘hip’ and ‘cool’ owing to their abbreviated, sculpted, and molded incarnations.

With that in mind, I was hardly surprised that Oscar de la Renta’s pre fall lineup, shown formally yesterday afternoon at 583 Park before a crowd that included members of the press, retailers, and social figures (including Glenda Bailey, Hal Rubenstein, Linda Fargo, Aerin Lauder) would be replete with blossoms. After all, the print and color loving designer known for his ultra feminine oeuvre, has already shown his signature ethnic inspired Ikat prints for several seasons already and florals are not only a change of pace for fall, but certainly in keeping with his aesthetic. And Oscar’s joyful buds, like those at Balenciaga, looked imminently modern thanks to the shape and structure given to the silhouettes. No soft and droopy flowers here.

There were florals for day, florals for evening, floral brocade jackets shown with full knee length skirts in contrasting fabrics, short floral dresses, floral dresses shown beneath embroidered floral jackets, and floor length floral trimmed gowns. Oscar opened his 63 piece show with a brightly hued (in exuberant shades of green, blue, yellow, and red) floral cloque brocade jacket shown over a soft knee length black tweed skirt, and closed with a finale which included dramatic gowns featuring floral silk faille panel prints. In between, there were floral silk zibeline and floral silk faille panel print cocktail dresses (one in particular that stood out was a knee length strapless dress trimmed with black patent embroidery), abstract tulip silk zibeline dresses (some covered with embroidery), and dresses with multicolor floral embroidery shown under embroidered jackets.

Other themes (which unsurprisingly were all very ‘Oscar’ in mood and tone) included hits of strong color (lacquer red, emerald green and fuchsia) sometimes mixed with black for both day and evening, smart suits (many in neutral toned tweeds), distinctive knitted jackets and sweaters (including a range of cashmere and silk cardigans that were richly embroidered), and of course, brand new takes on that popular LBD (many of which were done in silk faille, silk satin, or brocade and trimmed with black velvet or black satin bows). When skirts or dresses were knee length, the leg was encased in thick shiny black opaque hose and the high heeled shoe, boot, or sandal was also black (which further lengthened the leg).

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Oscar’s ‘Garden’ of Earthly Delights appeared first on lookonline.

No silly, I’m not referring to Oscar de la Renta’s ego; though the debonair and popular fashion veteran is certainly entitled to feel mighty good about himself after winning the Council of Fashion Designer’s Women’s Wear Designer of the Year Award (in a tie with Proenza Shouler).

What I AM referring to is Oscar’s penchant for full, wide- legged, cuffed, floor sweeping pants at yesterday’s resort show. Most often counterbalanced with something leaner on top (a narrow cotton hand knit or cashmere and silk sweater), they, along with wide legged jumpsuits; wasp waist, petticoated dresses; full skirted cocktail dresses; filmy caftans, were indicative of his love of volume. But since Oscar always wants to give his ladies a variety of choices and options, he also proposed a lean silhouette by way of stretch cotton pencil skirts and abbreviated jackets and narrow stretch silk pleated dresses among other things.

Coincidentally, like last year, the resort show was a formal runway presentation held just hours before the CFDA Awards; not exactly the most convenient situation considering the pouring rain (which probably accounted for the many empty seats- I estimated the venue as 75% full). And many attendees were surely preoccupied with getting themselves home or to a hair salon, in order to get ready for the big event later on.

Speaking of convenient, just a few days before, the show was wisely moved from a gallery in Chelsea (located in the far reaches of the west side) to a decidedly more elegant uptown space, 583 Park Avenue. The venue was not only more in keeping with Oscar’s unapologetically elegant and uptown design aesthetic, but it was a bit more convenient- not only for his upper east side fans and customers (Aerin Lauder, Alexandra Lind) but for top editors like Anna Wintour (with daughter in tow), and Glenda Bailey (wearing an ivory crochet coat from spring), as well as top retailers (Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo and Neiman Marcus’s Ken Downing).

By the way, with the soggy downpour courtesy Hurricane Barry, wrecking havoc all morning, the most essential item of clothing was a great raincoat and there were many on view. While Anna opted for a sharp black patent trench, many others decided upon classic or not so classic khaki (like The New York Times’s Anne Christensen who wore Burberry’s short flared sleeved Mac with large buttons).

As for the collection, it was signature, consistent Oscar all the way, and indicative of why he took home the coveted Women’s Wear of the Year Award. The neutral color palette (white, natural, and navy, black) was enlivened with hits of yellow and tangerine- the latter looked especially fresh in the form of a patent leather drawstring jacket worn with a white stretch cotton pencil skirt, natural python Larrabee bag, and tangerine patent flat sandals. Stripes, oversized polka dots (this time embroidered), bold florals, and Ikat prints (what else is new???) provided a respite from the solids.

Getting back to the resort show, ODLR continued his experimentation with sleeves (in terms of volume, length, and silhouette) and is obviously taken with blouses, which were shown with skirts and pants. Noteworthy is his new ‘schizophrenic’ blouse: from the front it appears to be a classic button down shirt but the large bow in back gives it an unexpectedly feminine touch and added volume and dimension.

A selection of bags (from sleek clutches to oversized takeaway totes), belts (like the wide corset like patent leather version), hats (both tailored menswear inspired and whimsically large brimmed), and shoes (either pancake flats or sky high heels) all by Oscar of course, perfectly accessorized each of the 64 outfits in high style.

By the way, Anna Wintour showed up at the CFDA Awards held at the New York Public Library, wearing a knee length black and white embroidered floral dress by Oscar de la Renta. Others going the short route (and choosing Oscar), were wife Annette and her daughter Eliza Reed Bolen (who also works for the designer), both in short black cocktail dresses. They were proof that one need not wear floor length gowns in order to make a grand entrance. In fact, on the contrary. Sorry to say, but Oprah Winfrey’s complicated and voluminous Ralph Lauren gown was unflattering and looked unwieldy. And considering the heat, those who dressed up too much looked hot and bothered (like Allure’s Linda Wells in cumbersome feathers).

But hey, the CFDA Awards are not your typical red carpet event, and there are going to be many different ways to dress and many ways to creatively interpret ‘black tie’. For example, Bruce Weber turned out with a trademark red and white cotton bandana on his forehead; Vogue’s Grace Coddington showed up in her trademark black pantsuit; Zang Toi and his date, Rachel Smith, Miss USA, made a visual statement clad in matching black and white paisleys. Though Zang’s was a shirt and Bermudas, and Ms. Smith’s was a grand ballgown.

Interestingly, even though this was the 25th anniversary of the CFDA, it seems that silver (which signifies the years) was eclipsed by every other color of the rainbow (red, pink, black), and by its metal counterpart gold. Though one woman did pay homage to honoree Ralph Lauren and the anniversary date by accessorizing her floor length white cotton shirtdress (emblazoned with Ralph’s signature polo player) with a silver ‘tie’.

And speaking of shirtdresses, Charles Nolan’s lacquer red short sleeved shirt dress gown, worn on his model date, was an example of taking something simple yet adding drama through color, cut, and fabric. But in a sea of gowns, I have to say that one true standout was Amy Fine Collins’ colorful vintage Geoffrey Beene gown with its abbreviated bolero. Other than this year’s inaugural Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award (which was awarded to Robert Lee Morris), what better way to pay homage to the late great designer!

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post Oscar’s ‘Full’ of Himself appeared first on lookonline.