I had an appointment to see
Ralph Rucci and review Resort 2014 this past Friday, and we met at his soon to
be former headquarters in Soho.  On Tuesday, he will relocate his company to a
space in Chelsea, (151 West 26th street), that is three times the size (16,820
square feet to be exact) of his current atelier at 536 Broadway. As soon as I
walked in, I could sense the palpable excitement on the eve of what is to be a
major move; one that is illustrative of the exciting changes, and expansion to
come. (Remember “The Eve of Destruction”? I guess you can call this, “The Eve of
Construction”!) Quite frankly, everything about Ralph Rucci is expansive these
days, not the least of which are Ralph’s formidable biceps, a bi-product of his
rigourous workouts; and his even greater expansive mood. By Ralph’s own admission, “I can
work and not worry about the business. I’m in a great place right now –  I never
had the luxury of doing that.” Rosina Rucci summed it up perfectly with her
observation: “There’s a new sense of hopefulness we’re living at
RR”.

Ralph Rucci Resort “killer” black matte jersey with tulle inset seams

In addition to the free
standing boutiques, advertising is an important component of that, and his new
fall ad campaign is certain to be image changing and defining. Coincidentally,
on Friday, an article ran in WWD, “Rucci taps Meisel” during which time Rosemary
Feitelberg talked extensively about the “dream team” that was assembled to make
it happen. According to Feitelberg, “Ralph Rucci didn’t spare any expense for his
first major advertising campaign. The designer lined up photographer Steven Meisel to call the shots
during Monday’s nine-hour shoot at Highline Stages in the Meatpacking District.
True to form, the lensman kept the details about the campaign sealed shut. What
was clear was that Johan Svensson served as art director, Edward Enninful was
the stylist and Stella Tennant modeled pieces from
the fall collection”.

Other big changes? In
addition to their new CEO, Jeffry Aronsson “who is doing great great things”,
and a recent collaboration with Holly Hunt on a furniture collection, the result
of which is the Ralph Rucci for Holly Hunt collection – it is made to order
through the Holly Hunt showroom at http://www.hollyhunt.com . He will start showing Couture in Paris in
July 2014 (it will now be called “Made-to-Order” since this is America). Of
course, Ralph has never stopped making “Made-to-Order”, but it will be
completely separate from ready-to-wear, as it should be.

And knitwear (cashmere and
silk), which he has always done as part of his collections, will now be a whole
separate entity. “I wanted it to be completely separate so that the customer can
buy all knits.” “Do you know what I remember
so clearly? I experienced it and it’s such an impressive memory. Do you remember
when Halston had his whole salon on 68th Street and Madison Avenue? The first
floor was all knits. That’s all they sold on the first floor. Cashmere, silk,
ribbed. And I remember people just buying multiples of everything and they
couldn’t keep them in stock”. (Do I remember? Of course, because Carrie
Donovan, who was senior fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar at that time, wore
only Halston knitwear).

“I had been doing knits on
and off for years, but it took us some time to really find the right factory”
(which he has). And this relationship has gone beautifully. It’s a factory
located in Perugia Italy, and they have the capacity to make the quality and to
work with us on the price so that a cashmere sweater is not a million dollars
anymore. And it’s great quality. It’s made in Italy. Not China or Turkey”.
And what, may I ask, is a
designer without a fragrance? So I was not surprised when Ralph admitted that he
had one in the works… “and then we had the crash of 2008”. But it is in the
works again and will probably make it’s debut before the close of 2015. “I know
exactly what I want it to smell like” (he wouldn’t divulge the ingredients or
the scent). “I designed the bottle in 1987 and never lost the focus on that.
Jeffry is now putting that all together. It will be called Ralph Rucci”. Which
was the perfect segue into what led him to drop the word Chado from the label.
“When did you decide to do that?”

Ralph Rucci Resort Taroni snakeskin printed coat

 “Six months ago! People were
confused. They would call me “Chado” and there was consumer confusion. But the
straw that broke the camel’s back but when I was having dinner with a really
important editor-in-chief of an American magazine and she said Prada’s last
spring collection was very Japanese. And since an enormous part of their
business is in China, that doesn’t work. The Chinese did not accept the
collection. I understand that if you are
going to start your expansion in Asia, as we are in China right now, then that
will be detrimental. I think now we have to approach the second three
decades (can you imagine? it’s going to be 32 years in October!). We have to
approach that with a zest and a spirit that’s zeitgeist. So I came and I said to
Jeffrey…Jeff, I just want to change everything and call it “Ralph Rucci”, and
his response was: “Oh, I couldn’t wait for you to say that!” But, he was so cool
he wouldn’t say anything. It was completely my decision”.

Ralph Rucci Resort embroidered white cotton broadcloth tunic shirt and pants with nautilus wrap detail

Ralph Rucci Resort – his “favorite” matte jersey drop grain hem dress with undulating neckline which is available in black or white

But while he agreed his
collections are divergent, he observed that there are inherent qualities that
hold the line all together: “cut, quality, make, and whatever word you want to
use, but edge”. “Even Deeda wants to have an edge. Everyone consciously or unconsciously wants to look desirable and be desired so it never leaves your mind
whether it’s a platonic or fully sexual relationship” I was also curious as to his
thoughts regarding the new crop of talented, young American designers. “Who you
think are major talents?” I asked.
“Alexandre Wang’s work is
fabulous. I buy his t shirts and shorts”. (Coincidentally, I was wearing
Alexander Wang’s sleeveless white cotton shirt with a cape back from sring 2011,
which is one of my favorite pieces).”What he is doing is superb
and I love what he’s doing for Balenciaga which is brilliant. I don’t know him
but I think he is a designer!” He also mentioned Mr. Givenchy, James
Galanos, and then he added,”I had the privilege in my
life of witnessing Halston”.”Azzedine Alaia has his own
private secret factory which is unto himself. He’s a genius! I am not going on
that direction. I’m trying to do our own thing which is another option within
that realm. Riccardo Tisci is brilliant and what he has done for haute couture
is a whole other level and I’d love to wear his menswear but it doesn’t fit.
It’s too small. They don’t cut beyond a size 52″ (his muscles again).

Ralph Rucci Resort zipper white canvas jacket with Rorschach print

Of course, getting back to
Resort 2014, which was why I was there. His thoughts about resort? He wishes
“everyone would be grown up like we used to and have two collections (spring
summer and fall winter) and that’s it”. Though, as he put it, “the confusion is
this thing called pre fall, because I approach it as pre fall, but they want it
to be less prefill and more lightweight which I will address”. Regardless,
getting up close and personal with Ralph Rucci (and
his designs), is always a treat. While it maybe true that a picture is worth a
thousand words, this is certainly one example that dispels that notion, and
proves that pictures do not always do justice to a finished product. When it
comes to Ralph’s work, one really needs to see the pieces and most importantly,
feel them and touch them, to fully appreciate the excruciatingly painstaking
detail and workmanship that goes into everything this acclaimed artist does. And
he an artist in every sense of the word (he had a one man show in December, and
each season, his paintings are screened for fabrics which are used in the
collections).

He wasted no time in cutting
to the chase and immediately pointed out the most important pieces on the
collection: the wider pant that wraps on the leg (nautilus wrap); the new drop
grain hem (“the cut is fabulous…the fabric falls on the bias on the side and
it is cut away. There’s a point that happens and it makes the body look great”);
the over sized button front tunic nautilus wrap shirt: “I’ve done that shirt in
various fabrics, from crepe de chine to pique. I’ve done it in pique and women
love that body. I call it the Elsa, I originally made over sized shirts for Elsa
Peretti in white pique because she goes through them. It’s a staple and we do
variations every season, and this is a new version. It’s in broadcloth
and embroidered very beautifully, but the embroidery is very static. It’s based
on those wall collages by Louise Nevelson”; the group of cashmere and silk
knits that are part of the expansion; the thick white cotton canvas zip front
jacket with a Rorschach pattern; a coat in a snakeskin pattern comprised of
black, nude, and petrol green made of thick Taroni silk.

Ralph Rucci Resort drop grain jacket with bias cut sides

As for his favorite, favorite
pieces? They were unsurprisingly all in black “I could do an entire collection
in black” he said.  I, of course, had to touch them all. Included was
a perfectly cut double face wool jacket with zippered sleeves; a drop grain bias
cut jacket that comes to the front and “makes women look taller and slimmer”;  jersey dress with an undulating neckline that is “all purpose, 12 months a year” (“I
cut it in chalk and in black”); the black matte jersey dress with seams that are
inset with tulle (“a killer, look what it does for the body!”, he exclaimed);
and the black silk chiffon lame dress that is cut on the cross grain. He literally marveled at
the bias cut pieces. “Don’t you just love the bias?” he asked. “Just two pieces
of fabric. The perfection!”

The post Ralph Rucci: On the Move & Moving On appeared first on lookonline.

Ralph Rucci is a man on a mission, one to introduce his Fall/Winter 2012 collection and dispel his image as a couture designer. In other words, to take the haute out of couture and reintroduce Chado Ralph Rucci as “Made in America” ready-to-wear.

(Click on images for larger pictures)

The designer, who studied art and philosophy at Temple University is reintroducing himself and showing the new collection to the fashion press. He sat down during fashion week to talk about the collection, his inspiration and his intent to introduce the brand to a new crop of customers. The current Chado Ralph Rucci’s constituency includes poet and performer, Patti Smith, best dressed socialite Deeda Blair and entrepreneur, Martha Stewart, which he “takes as the highest compliment” maybe due in part to advice from storied Vogue editrix, Diana Vreeland, who counseled “Give them what they don’t have.”

Inspired by nomadic tribes and anthropology and the unlikely inspiration of skulls and skeletons for print direction this season, the fifty-four piece collection is comprised of suits, dresses for day and evening and for the first time a simple, but perfectly fit white shirt and a beautifully constructed black leather skirt. “There are pieces purposely put into the collection to be price conscious”, says Rucci, to appeal to a new customer with a streamlined lifestyle, while maintaining the essential elements and integrity of the detail oriented line.

Click on image for larger view

The collection plays to Rucci’s strengths – shapely and beautifully constructed garments – for a woman who appreciates it’s balance of form, function and art. This collection is predominately black for day and more so for evening. “It’s what looks right and feels right.” says the designer, given the mood of fashion and the collection’s concept. There is color, evident in a cosmetic toned dusty pink, double-faced wool suit with shaped front jacket and trapunto detailing, as well as a striking cinnabar red, that the designer favors and a rich russet both infusing the collection with color richness.

Click on image for larger view

Not abandoning his penchant for beautiful investment apparel, the line is infused with one of the season’s key elements, fur and fur touched jackets and coats. Even here the designer is conscious of the needs of his customer’s demands, re-inventing a sable coat to be worn three ways. A striking black shell and a sable interior, is stitched to the aforementioned scull print fabric for a look that is at once ageless and individual.

Click on image for larger view

Evening, an essential part of the collection is handled with equal attention to technique and simplicity of design. A black feathered tiered gown is surplice cut then bias tied on a tulle base with graduating levels of sheer lengths. Every feather is individually tied down, a technique the designer hasn’t employed in quite awhile to achieve the slimming tiered effect. Not into feathers? The designer offered a duo of little black dresses, an understated strapless column with hand knotted ribbon ties and decorative hem with bronze caviar and jet beads and a full skirted ribbon cut beauty, which speak to the quiet elegance of the brand.

Click on image for larger view

As the designer enters into a new fashion era, he thought back to his reasons for getting into the business and his entry into fashion. While finishing his studies at F.I.T, the ’20-ish Rucci convinced his sister Rosita to accompany him to iconic and revolutionary fashion designer Halston’s atelier to purchase an outfit, so that he could strike up an alliance with the house vendeuse. Rucci landed a spot in the made to measure salon, trained under Halston, (who in turn had trained under famed designer Balenciaga and Rucci hero) and the rest as they say is history.

–Tricia Kenney

Tricia Kenney is an independent fashion editor, writer and marketer whose work has appeared in national consumer and trade publications. For ten years she was a creative director at Creative Marketing Plus, where she won two Communicator Awards. She has been a fashion editor at Glamour Magazine and a Fashion Director at Macy’s. A native New Yorker, Kenney is a frequent commentator on fashion, lifestyle and culture.

The post Man On a Mission appeared first on lookonline.

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012 Collection

Ralph had a few surprises up his beautifully sculpted sleeves this season. He left his Soho atelier, came uptown to Lincoln Center for the first time since it has been the venue for New York Fashion Week, and presented his spring collection. It was also his first midday show in memory (his usual time slot had been 7PM or 8 PM).

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012 Collection Photo: Style.com

RR is in a class by himself and has always gone his own way; so it was hardly surprising that, in a season filled with so much color, so many dizzying prints and patterns, his palette was whittled down to black, white, silver, oyster, and nude with a few hits of wisteria and yellow (which he referred to as latex). The best pieces were really the most reserved and pared down in both shape and detail, and what stood out was the grouping in white wool and white matelasse with tulle or satin inserts which had the effect of cleansing the palette. His only print, an abstract in white, gray, and black, showed up only twice.

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012 Collection Photo: Ernest Schmatolla

And then there was the use of plastic (I kept thinking of that famous line from ‘The Graduate’, when one of Ben’s well meaning family friends takes him aside to give him some advice; he said “I have only one word Ben, “Plastics”!) Clear plastic was used throughout, resulting in a space age, futuristic effect. There was a white faille dress, a white ultra suede coat, an oyster gros de longre raincoat, and a nude faille coat, all with clear plastic insets; a clear plastic trench coat was shown over a silver paillette pants ensemble, and clear plastic was used as cuffs encircling the models’ wrists. Peplums have been spotted all over, but Ralph found another way to add interest to the waist and hips:with an ‘apron’ (his was in white satin and shown over a white caviar beaded shell and pants).

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012 Collection Photo: Style.com

But perhaps the best surprise was the duo of elongated dresses that looked plain, rather severe and covered up in front, but when you saw the back, it was a different story (the surprise of a paillette ‘tube’ ). The black matte jersey gown with nude paillette tube and the white wool version, with its cerise paillette tube, both drew a round of appeciative round of applause. Another crowd pleaser was the short white beaded fringe dress, which had such wonderful movement, I would think it to be the ultimate dance dress. (FYI, Ralph dedicated the spring show to the memory of Mrs Casey Ribicoff, a friend and a longtime client who epitomized chic and who passed away last month).

Michael’s Desert Storm

Michael Kors Spring 2012 Collection Photos: firstView.com

Included in Michael Kors’ run of show at yesterday morning’s presentation, was a bio which opened with this quote, “From the very beginning, I was convinced you could be sexy and sporty at the same time”, Women’s Wear Daily, March 2011, (on the occasion of his company’s 30th anniversary). As if we really needed to be reminded (at a time when everyone else seems to be referencing sports) that Michael has been championing luxury sportswear, making it look effortlessly chic and sexy, since the company’s very inception. A luxe sportif feeling has been the thread throughout his collections, and it has defined his aesthetic, regardless of what the overall theme of the line might be, from one season to the next.

Michael Kors Spring 2012 Collection

Michael has been inspired by everyone from Ali MacGraw to Jacqueline Kennedy. He has visited Palm Beach, Palm Springs, Aspen, and Capri, among other places. He has been consistent (and has remained true to himself) whether proposing a polished wardrobe in urbane black and white, or endorsing off the charts, high octane acid brights. But somehow, one gets the feeling that Michael is in his element, at his most convincingly best, when he is on neutral territory, working within a range of his beloved desert shades; perfecting his signature trenches, safari jackets, ponchos, anoraks, capes, caftans; offering up his fantastic knits, rugged boots and belts, and doing it in eased up, elongated proportions..

Michael Kors Spring 2012 Collection

Such was the case yesterday with his ‘Now Voyager’ collection, inspired by a recent trip to the Lebombo Lodge in Africa. By the way, when I was going through the list of recurring themes from the runways the other day, I left out a big one: “Out of Africa”, and that was the major connective thread that ran throughout Michael’s fabulous morning show. I loved when Michael did prints. Always in keeping with the mood, they were based on nature – culled from the animal kingdom: zebra stripes, leopard spots, antelope markings and snakeskin. The hands down best was the trench coat covered in antelope markings closely resembling a graphic check.

Michael Kors Spring 2012 Collection

The models as usual, looked enviably gorgeous, tanned, and fit, with their hair pulled back in long thick braids, sauntering down the runway to the tune of Adele’s thumping “Rolling in the Deep”, and they couldn’t have looked any more comfortable thanks to their gutsy flat sandals which laced up the legs, and were finished off with buckles. The show ended with Michael taking his bow to Willie Nelson’s “On the road Again”; but wherever Michael’s travels take him, (and I guess, eventually take us), the one thing that won’t change: his consistent aesthetic.

 Ronaldus Shamask Returns to the Runway

Shamask Spring 2012 Collection Photos: Courtesy Shamask

Speaking of nice surprises, I was Ron Shamask’s editor when I was at Harper’s Bazaar in the 80’s, and when I think of him, in addition to being a genuinely nice guy and a true talent, I think of his minimalistic, architectural designs, zippers, and the colors black, white, and gray (at the time, he was considered to be fashion’s reigning ‘monk’). Ron has not exactly been in hiding, he has a thriving business with sales totally approximately $7 million a year, a loyal clientele, and his collections are sold at stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Barneys, etc..

Shamask Spring 2012 Collection

But his show yesterday afternoon at Lincoln Center, marked the first time he has shown in conjunction with New York Fashion Week in quite some time (ten years to be exact). And his 54 piece collection for men and women, was quite a nice surprise. While black and white were hardly in short supply –notable were the black and white pleated dresses, a textural off the shoulder quilted gauze long dress in black, and a black leather long shift with infinity zipper), there was a lot of strong exuberant color throughout, and it was hardly gratuitous. It looked good and it looked convincing, and jelled perfectly with the youthful, sporty, modern vibe. The footwear of choice was a flat thong with a white sole (the colors on top varied with the clothes they were shown with).

Standouts were the “Desert Zen Spa” group, comprised of tunics, dresses, and gowns in desert tan dipped in gold hues; the terrific ecru knits shown in eased up proportions; a red double face wool carcoat shown over a lemon chiffon top and silk taffeta shorts; and what he referred to as “Piet Mondrian doing Superman”. The finale featured a black dress in leather, suede, and chiffon, with graphic splashes of cobalt blue, red, and yellow.

If I had one criticism, it was the music, which I found to be rather distracting if not annoying.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

The Dream Chenille Throw from Lands’ End

The forecast calls for cooler weather ahead. This plush chenille throw will keep you warm and cozy on a chilly fall evening. It’s made of soft polyester and acrylic yarns and is a generous 50” by 72”. The throw comes in seven colors and it’s machine washable.

TheraTOES and TheraPED

Fashion Week is over and long days in high heels have probably taken a toll on your feet. TheraTOES and TheraPED relieve your tired, achy feet with FeetTherma gel that can be heated or cooled for a comforting, at home spa treatment. They come in a fun zebra print and the TheraPED also has spacers to help realign toes.

Available at: www.healthenterprises.com , TheraTOES, $7.99: TheraPED, $9.99

The post Surprise! appeared first on lookonline.

Youth is Wasted on the Young

Ralph Rucci Fall 2011 Collection (Photos: Zimbio.com)

I always look forward to seeing Ralph Rucci, but I have to admit that my interest and curiosity was peaked even more so this time after I read WWD’s weekend column asking designers “What were they thinking?” as far as their upcoming collections. Ralph Rucci’s answer was pared down to one word: “Youth”. Many words have been used to describe Chado Ralph Rucci (the designer and the label), but the word ‘youth’ has never exactly been one of them. And how ironic. Marc Jacobs went in a decidedly older, more grownup, and sophisticated direction this season, and RR is thinking ‘young’.

But in all fairness, it wasn’t that young. Nor should it be. Ralph’s customer is not teenage and that is not who he is going after. And anyway, ‘youth’ has more to do with a state of mind and spirit than chronological age. One look at the almost 90 year old iconic fashion star Iris Apfel, seated in the front row and looking ‘mahvelous’, confirms that truism. Having said that, as it turns out, the items that really stood out for me this time, just so happened to have a decidedly more youthful spirit as they were perhaps not as overworked as others.

The 61 piece Chado Ralph Rucci collection shown on the eve of Valentine’s Day, appropriately opened with head to toe red (and the shade also formed the finale). The eye-catching and crowd pleasing opening group consisted of a short red Mongolian lamb coat accessorized with a red scarf wrapped around the head, and ‘fierce’, tall red suede high heeled boots; a knee length red vinyl belted raincoat; a red wool jersey short dress with an open work trellis design; a red chinchilla tunic; and a red sable ski parka.

Standouts that followed (which could be considered ‘young’ in mood and spirit) include a tan ‘puffer’ coat with a Chinchilla vest, worn with tan trousers; a mod-ish white vinyl short coat with massive black fox cuffs; a white ultra suede tunic and floor length black velvet skirt; a white wool floor length coat and matching gown, both of which had sheer feathered hemlines; a short sleeved black wool challis dress that could be considered as a perfect LBD and a black wool and broadtail dress featuring a nude illusion halter neck top; a short black lace dress which was shown with a fitted black openwork spider web cardigan; a positively divine freshwater pearl twinset which was paired with a short, full satin skirt in ivory which was banded with a wide tomato red hem; and a short red embroidered chiffon and feathered dress, shown with sheer red long gloves.

A Chip off the old (color) block

Narciso Rodriquez Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

Last night, American sportswear was alive and well and inhabiting Narciso Rodriguez’s runway at Lincoln Center! He managed to meld the world of art and fashion, bringing a new level to the idea of utilitarian fashion, and did it brilliantly and succinctly. It was strong and masterful in every way, including its conception and realization. I have always loved graphic art inspired patterns, and the strict, chic, timeless, seasonless, fail proof combination of black and white (which is a perfect foil for the use of other shades). And this was really the best of both worlds. Rendered in black and white, ivory, shades of gray, blues, red, pale lavender, the show reminded me of what, up until last night, had been my all-time favorite Narciso collection, shown several years back in February.

 Well edited, fast paced, and to the point, it spoke volumes about a strictly pared down vision predicated on menswear inspired coats in eased up proportions; they hit just above the knee to midcalf, elongated jackets both of which were collarless and stripped down of all superfluous decoration. Satin tops (many were color blocked giving them the look of a chic Jockey shirt), and elongated sleeveless or tank dresses some of which were graphically color blocked, covered with an abstract print by artist Iris Schomaker, and a few beauties had strips of sheer chiffon or chiffon overlays. The focus was on innovative fabrication (strips of cashmere or wool to create a contrast patterns, bias cut flannel, leatherized wool, laminated chiffon anybody?), expert tailoring, the play of masculine and feminine, soft and hard, and especially, the effective use of graphic color blocking was achieved in a number of ways using different color combinations.

For example, a collarless black wool coat with an ivory panel down the front, had black satin sleeves spliced with red, and was shown over black pants with ivory stripes down the side; an elongated black jacket banded in white was shown with white pants with black stripes down the side; a black coat with contrasting white panels was shown over white pants and a color blocked top in black, lavender, and navy; a black 7/8 coat which revealed red panels on the inside, was shown over a black satin top and a narrow lavender skirt (it was beautiful the way the coat was made so that it opens to reveal that flash of color); a jacket that was half red and half ivory, was paired with black pants. The models’ hair was slicked back into buns and the only accessory used was a pointy toed, pancake flat boot that hit mid knee.

The World ‘Accordion’ to Vera

Vera Wang Fall 2011 Collection (Photos: Firstview.com)

Vera Wang is one of the most consistent designers today, and she is also one of the few female designers who completely looks like their clothes; and visa versa. For her, it’s (very) personal. (I won’t name names but many if not most women designers would not be caught dead in a good deal of the ideas they send down the runway, and you know who they are). Not so with Vera, whose tightly honed personal aesthetic has also become the jumping off point for her collections.

One has come to expect the ‘mousey’ color palette with an emphasis on shades of gray, black, and brown; the mix of street wise and couture; the second skin leggings or skinny jeans; the grounded black leather platform ankle booties; the offhanded mixing of masculine and feminine, of day and night; the body conscious layering predicated on a perfect balance of urban grunge, athletic basics, and elements of utilitarian, played off touches of below the radar, subtle luxury. (No in your face, matronly bling, over the top excess, or fashion victim-y status symbols for this cool cat who, at 60 +, has an enviably athletic and lithe body thanks to years of ice skating).

A few days before her show, Vera jokingly told Vogue.com: “I think I now own a pleating company”. Duh! One need not be a rocket scientist to figure out that Vera is obsessed with pleats these days and they would show up throughout her upcoming runway show. And they did; no fewer than 5 different types in fact, including French Accordion, box pleats, and knife pleats.

Her fall collection, held yesterday at Lincoln Center, was not just tightly edited and whittled down to 36 pieces; it was also whittled down to basically one idea (pleats!) with variations on that theme playing out from start to finish. Thus, there were variations based on the cool and hip layering of a pleated skirt in wool or chiffon, over a skinny pant (in stretch wool flannel), shown beneath some sort of gusty, sporty, utilitarian, fur trimmed or (detachable) fur lined outer layer with an oversized collar (be it a cropped vest, a sleeveless jacket, a ‘boyfriend’ inspired blazer, or a ‘scuba coat’ in leather, mélange wool twill, or quilted satin).

When the pleats were not the foundation for layering, they were on their own, in the form of a one piece, multi pleated, chiffon dress. Standouts include an ivory cupro shift tank dress with French accordion pleats and stitching detail; a mustard chiffon sheer long sleeved pleated dress with a high gathered neck, a pebble chiffon multi pleated high neck long sleeved dress, a cardamom chiffon multi pleated racer back gown with a high low hem and pleated strap detail, and several versions in a flesh tones dusty pink.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

Nokia N8

Heads are sure to turn your way when you are using the new Nokia N8. You have never seen a camera like this in a smartphone. It has a twelve megapixel sensor, Carl Zeiss optics, Xenon flash, and HDMI connection. Plus it has all the social networking features you want, a fingertip friendly touch screen, amazing battery life, and the sleek aluminum body is surprisingly lightweight and durable.

Available at: http://store.nokia.com/, $449.00

The post New York Fashion Week Notes – Day 6 appeared first on lookonline.

FashionGPS sponsored report

Chado Ralph Rucci ivory printed gazar “antler chair” strapless gown

Hands down the most special and rewarding fashion experience of the week, occurred the day after the final show on Thursday, and it was not at Lincoln Center, but in Soho, at 536 Broadway to be exact. Far from the maddening crowd. As we all know, Ralph Rucci was to present his spring collection at his Soho atelier this past Monday evening, but canceled right before Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was to begin. Instead, he opted for individual appointments. My first reaction, as soon as I heard the news, was that I was pleased to know that I would be up close and personal with museum quality clothes, and talk with the extremely cultured, articulate designer, who is known for his excruciating, painstaking attention to detail. (How many times have we all sat at his shows and wished we could actually touch the garment or find out exactly how it was constructed?)

I arrived a few minutes before Ralph and had a chance to quickly thumb through the approximately 80 looks. It was a real treat to feel the fabrics – matte jersey, mohair, silk faille, printed gazar, cotton poplin and cotton canvas, organza, tulle, wool crepe, and get a good look at the construction, the details, the front, the back, the sides, and insides of the pieces. When Ralph arrived, we had a chance to talk about a range of fashion related topics.

Black wool jacket with circular horeshair insets

As for this collection, a study in black, taupe, ivory, and touches of coral, chrome yellow, cinnamon, and celadon, he explained that it is an homage to sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, (who worked in flat planes). It features signature Ralph themes such as Charles James inspired elliptical cut sleeves, and the abundant use of horsehair. What I learned, (and it truly boggles the mind), is that in Ralph’s wondrous backrooms (where about 70 talented craftsmen make it all happen), they actually steam the horsehair (bend and shape it), so that it becomes pliable. One fabulous black suit with circular, (upward, downward) horsehair insets, was “4 years in the making – I’m so gratified that we can do this!”; a ‘simple’ (Ralph’s words, not mine) black t shirt, was given interest through insets of molded horsehair in a circular pattern; one black lightweight double faced wool and silk 7/8 coat had sheer insets that formed the pattern of a Louise Nevelson collage.

Black satin raincoat

Other mind blowing creations (and this only scratches the surface): an updated black mohair ‘le smoking’ (the midriff and sleeves on the jacket had horsehair insets embroidered in a sound wave design); a fantastically shaped black satin coat with beige outside darts (treated to be water repellent), which was shown with black mohair ‘jeans’ (Ralph’s ‘jeans’, ‘t shirts’, and ‘raincoats’ are not quite garden variety basics); a matte jersey pale beige knee length dress and long black gown given surface interest through cartridge pleating; several pieces in black or white wool crepe (jackets, coats, an evening gown), actually done in the “Pomodoro” technique; a beautiful and graceful strapless ivory gazar gown screen printed with a Han Dynasty chair whose legs were made from antlers.

Ivory pleated dress

When a model came out wearing a dramatic black bugle bead jacket over a black bugle beaded top and long organza skirt, the designer was quick to point out that he is now using bugle beads in lieu of regular beads because he’s tired of glitter (“no more glitter” he decreed). As for the supremely elegant and feminine see through Manolo Blahnik shoes on a new fabulous heel, Ralph noted, “I love an invisible shoe” and then talked about his absolute distaste for those heavy, clunky, almost orthopedic shoes that have been the footwear of choice for quite awhile now (I could not agree more!). He also said, “If I put my mind to evening clothes, it has to be stimulating intellectually and sexually”.

Black mohair ‘le smoking’ tuxedo suit

Speaking of being stimulated, Ralph is always thinking and moving forward. It’s obvious that he is confident and comfortable in his own skin. At this stage in his career, as he put it, “I know my limitations as a designer”. What’s up next? A line of furniture and textiles (he would not divulge the details yet but did say, “I’m in the company of geniuses” (no offense meant, but let’s just say he’s most likely not collaborating with Pottery Barn or Bed, Bath, and Beyond (details to follow soon). In addition, a website, www.chadoralphrucci.com (“a history of 28 years” he proclaimed), should be up and running by mid October. And while the customer may not be able to place an order for an evening confection that costs well into the 5 figures; she will be able to purchase more accessible things.

As for moving forward – that is literally the case; the company plans to move their headquarters from their current Soho location, to the west 20’s (Chelsea), home to many of the city’s famed galleries, and will hopefully be ensconced in their new space by April. Considering Ralph is a consummate artist, that’s a perfect fit

Looking ahead to the fall show, which will be held in February, I think we can safely assume it will be a formal show held in his Soho atelier. Although Ralph admitted that though the consensus of opinion among those who came downtown, was that they personally loved having an intimate view and one on one with the designer, he himself missed the “movement and dynamics” of a formal runway show. He also promised a “big surprise”. He wouldn’t say what it was, but with a twinkle in his eye, he told me that he had a brilliant idea for the collection and began working on it about 3 weeks ago.

A ‘Beauty’!

All photos: Marcio Madeira/ firstVIEW

Francisco Costa’s spring collection for Calvin Klein, shown on Thursday afternoon, was a study in simplicity (could anything be more opposite Marc Jacobs or Ralph Lauren for that matter?) But for someone with an educated eye, you could appreciate the complexity that went into it and understand that there was really nothing ‘simple’ about it at all. Short, quick, and to the point, the 34 well edited pieces spoke volumes about paring down, and doing it with great attention to cut and proportion. There was nothing to detract from the clean look of the clothes- no jewelry, no handbags, and only minimal makeup. No big hair here- the models wore their hair pulled back in easy ponytails. The only accessory used was one shoe: a high heeled anklet sandal (in black, white, or coral depending on which outfits they were paired with).

Here, like many other runways prior, something in white (an ankle length chalk washed silk halter dress), began the show, and like several others, the emphasis was on neutral shades: chalk, pearl, ivory, straw, natural, black (balsam) and charcoal. When a welcome lone coral washed silk shift (hitting above the knee), made its appearance, followed by several in shades of blue, they were the lone bright lights. Layering, a recurring theme, was highly effective and chic in this monotone collection, and there was a real sense of ease owing to the use of controlled volume. Coats, which hit above the knee, had dropped shoulders, deep armholes, and wide sleeves (as did several tops), and were paired with cropped easy pants. Shifts, falling a few inches above the knee, were similarly eased up and fell away from the body.

The use of panels, pleats, and prominent pockets, added dimension and in the case of the latter, it could also be a wonderfully functional detail. How chic is the elongated v neck pearl double faced silk crepe evening dress with prominent side pockets, which would basically obliterate the need to carry a bag? Speaking of bags, on each seat was a small white shopping bag containing a bottle of the new Calvin Klein fragrance, ‘Beauty’. And it was.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post Fashion Week’s Perfect Punctuation Mark! appeared first on lookonline.

(All photos Rick Guidotti for Ralph Rucci)

Ralph Rucci is arguably one of the most achingly consistent designers in the world, and unsurprisingly, he stayed very true to form for resort 2011, which was recently unveiled at his soho atelier.

It was a study in all the Ralph ‘isms’ his fans (of which there are legions) have come to know, love, and expect. Which is to say that notwithstanding this is a ready to wear collection, it is still more ‘haute couture’ than most haute couture collections. There was the signature and meticulous attention to detail, craftsmanship, and workmanship; the vertical seams and trapunto stitching; beautifully sculptural necklines; the use of insets (sheer, horsehair, patent, and ‘plexi’); the experimentation with shape and volume (especially with regard to the sleeves); the shrugs and boleros (one in particular was so abbreviated it almost did not ‘exist’); tunics; caftans; slip dresses; perfect little black dresses; infantas (one dramatic version was gloriously named a ‘beach’ infanta to make it seem more in tune with the season).

There were the indelibly ‘Ralph’ and very couture fabrics: glazed linen, silk radzmir, silk shantung, double faced wool/silk, rayon jersey, silk organza, gazar and printed gazar, organdy, matte jersey, Ponte jersey (a ‘magic’ thick stretchy rayon jersey fabric with ‘magical’ attributes according to Naji, Ralph’s assistant); paillettes.

And then there was the chic color palette: mainly neutral with an emphasis on black, white, ivory, caramel, truffle, almond, hazelnut, with hits of color in the form of coral (orange really), parrot green and shocking pink. When pastels were employed (pale blue, celadon, mauve), they were so muted they were almost closer to pale gray.

Last but not least was the art influence (and I say that because RR is a very accomplished artist himself, with several one man shows under his belt, and art has always figured in prominently to everything he does). And so, there were the art inspired and painterly prints and patterns: graphic stripes, an abstract Dalmatian print, and an abstract circle print that Naji perfectly described as resembling an impression a glass would leave if left on a surface. It was also hard to ignore the one very large wall in Ralph’s atelier, that was literally covered with a massive mural of his own design, the colors of which perfectly echoed those in the resort collection (Naji promised new artwork for the next collection

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Ralph Rucci ‘Shrugs’ It Off (Resort 2011, that is) appeared first on lookonline.

Ralph Rucci’s signature fur “Spiral Coat” (Photos by Ernest Schmatolla)

Akin to the character – Gloria Wondrous – which Elizabeth Taylor played to the hilt of fabulousness in “Butterfield 8”, the provocative, sensual, abundantly gorgeous film, which portrayed Taylor’s character, as a chicly coiffed, well-dressed, high-priced “escort”, Ralph Rucci’s Fall/Winter 2010 fur grouping immediately brings to mind, by its very nature, all of Taylor’s pure beauty, coupled with all of her blatant sexuality and sexiness, not only on the big screen way back then, but for the most part, how she looked and lived, in her off-screen life.

Still, in 2010, viewing Ralph Rucci’s lush pieces in the serenity and lavish environs of his SoHo, NYC atelier, all of the designer’s thoughts about developing the collection – “bouyant, intoxicating, and seductive” – bring to mind not only more than just a few beautious, moderne coats and jackets in the new line, but also the best of Miss Taylor’s characteristics in “Butterfield 8”, which in one pivotal scene, showed her looking otherworldly and gorgeous, as the camera panned from her blue-black hair, blue-velvet eyes, and red lips, to her tight, white slip, worn underneath a very stylized, mid-calf, fur coat.

Comparable to Taylor’s overt femaleness in this scene, some of Rucci’s furs are just as “female”; just as free and just as exhilerating, best noted for their irreverent and carefree qualities, which in Rucci’s hands are well done and wide open. Detail and texture, which of course, are always prevalent across the designer’s ready-to-wear grouping, are equally as visible and key for the furs. Rucci’s signature “Spiral Coat”, made up of dyed black Russian sable, combined with just the right touches of stiff, yet billowing nylon horsehair, and worn with a pair of thigh-high, high-heeled boots, is at once cool and hot. Ditto for the mink coats and jackets, which are either bleached or knitted togehter with fox, as in the case of the Degrade knitted mink and fox tunic. More great Rucci looks: Softest champagne, belted shearling and western-inspired, rich-girl, Cameron shearling, shown with sleek black top and pants.

As for color, it seems only fitting that there is a a strong palette of super-dark, black and grey. But, also, as one would expect from a designer whose career spans nearly three decades, there are a few surprises going on, one of which is most fun, in terms of Rucci’s sudden, unexpected splotches of day-glo pink, which pop up from time to time across the grouping.

Overall, there seems to be something here for just about every luxury fur client, particularly those well-heeled ladies who love the look of glamour and charm à la the ilk of a Hollywood star, such as Miss Taylor, as she was when she played, looked and dressed the part of Miss Wondrous.

– Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

5 Easy Pieces


(Photo: Firstview.com)

Diane Von Furstenberg is not only President of the CFDA and a veteran fashion designer, but a renowned globe trotter. In fact, she is a self avowed expert packer who has written many articles on the subject, and quite frankly, she has gotten the art of packing down to a science. Let’s face it, she put herself on the map with her original jersey wrap dress and nothing could be more perfect for packing. I can attest to that fact having worn mine on that first trip to Europe in the early 70’s and it was perfect.

(Photo: Randy Brooke)

She once made the astute observation, “When you figure out your suitcase, you figure out your life” and if you think about it; it’s so true! She has her own line of stylish suitcases, briefcases, and travel bags and always calls her cruise/pre-spring collection La Petite Valise because it’s all about creating the kind of weightless, versatile, packable, desirable must have ‘essentials’ that could easily fit into a ‘petite valise’.

(Photo: Randy Brooke)

For the short (literally and figuratively), sweet, and well edited 33 piece 2011 collection she showed Monday morning at her headquarters in the Meatpacking district, DVF eschewed some of the more riotous color schemes she has been known for in the past, and instead, focused on a very chic almost tone down palette of black and ivory (the duo was especially effective when they showed up as bold stripes and graphic patterns often mixed together), nude, grey, white, navy with touches of lime and coral (mainly seen in the sueded mules, straw visors, and several cashmere cardigans).

(Photo: Randy Brooke)

The focus was definitely on the leg thanks to ‘hot pants’, short shorts, boxers, abbreviated dresses, and of course, swimwear (both swimsuits and bikinis) and while the collection was quite feminine, thanks to her signature georgette chiffon and jersey wrap dresses and several standout blouses with balloon sleeves, it nonetheless had a sporty, ‘boy meets girl’ vibe. In fact, the ‘heart’ of the collection was to be found in variations of what one could call the perfect, essential ‘5 easy pieces’ (okay…so maybe it’s more like 6 or 7) one would need to take away on a trip to a warm weather climate, most of which are predicated on basic menswear inspired staples: 1- The classic button down shirt (hers were done in gray and white chiffon, maze cotton voile, black jersey); 2- shorts (hers came in denim, twill, dot jacquard, striped boucle, black leather, beaded chiffon); 3- the trench (shown in both a graphic black and white tropical maze chintz print as well as classic beige); 4- the t shirt (DVF’s were in silk jersey); 5- the blazer (shown in black cupro and in a jaunty navy twill suiting fabric); 6- the swimsuit (Diane offered a variety of bikinis and swimsuits, both solid and patterned), 7- and of course, the Little Black Dress which was shown in both black silk and black open work crochet knit. I guess you could say the only essential item missing were a pair of jeans but as I mentioned, the legs were on display throughout and there was not one pair of pants.

(Photo: Firstview.com)

Oh, and by the way, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that some of the most standout pieces on the runway were Diane’s fabulously oversized versions of the eternally chic and traditional canvas tote bag (hers were in bold black and ivory stripes and patterns and trimmed with luggage leather).

“Have bag will travel” — indeed!

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Ralph Wondrous appeared first on lookonline.

Several hundred supporters of the charity Positive Exposure an arts, education and advocacy organization that works with individuals living with genetic differences, were treated Thursday at Ralph’s showroom with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, silent auction, and a film preview of the trailer from Kartemquin Films documentary on the charity.

Rick Guidotti, founder and director spoke passionately and at length on the how and why he started the charity. Rick is a former New York fashion photographer who has devoted the last 12 years in developing cross-sector partnerships with health organizations and educational institutions supporting Positive Exposure’s use of the visual arts to significantly impact the fields of genetics, mental health and human rights.

Positive Exposure conducts Self-Esteem/Self-Advocacy photographic and interview workshops in collaboration with people living with genetic conditions. Positive Exposure also presents diversity workshops and portable, sustainable educational and human rights programs and multi media exhibitions for physicians, nurses, genetic counselors, health care professionals-in-training, universities, elementary and secondary schools, legislators and the general public.

The post Ralph Rucci Hosts a Benefit for Positive Exposure appeared first on lookonline.

What a way to begin Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, than to hear the shocking news of the untimely passing of a true creative genius, Alexander McQueen. And how eerie that he committed suicide at the age of 40, just about three years after his best friend, muse, and discoverer, Isabella Blow, took her own life.

It’s WAY too early to talk about trends, but from the look of things yesterday, the first official day of New York Fashion Week, one trend that seems to be unfolding, is that shows will continue to be shorter and more well edited, and they will most probably start on time (meaning…not more than a half hour after they are called for). Of course, as I said, Thursday was just the first day. Another trend that seems to be a no brainer, is the continuation of the military theme (both on and off the runways). When I refer to seeing a fashion ‘army’, I mean that literally. Olive (not so) drab, is unsurprisingly the color of the season, and military jackets and army fatigue parkas were spotted on many a show goer (both the gals and the guys).

Speaking of ‘marching’ orders, I adore and respect Ralph Rucci but I have to say I was surprised if not a bit irked when I noticed the dictum on his invitation, “Evening Dress Requested”. I also wondered if those attending would take it seriously. (Did that really mean I’d really have to forego the ‘cool’ neon orange rubber wedge wellies I was wearing, which had been necessitated by the snowfall on Wednesday?) First of all, most fashion people don’t want to be told how to dress or what to wear. And it’s not a modern concept. These days, there’s ‘day for night’ and ‘night for day’ and a blurring of the lines between the two (even at Chado Ralph Rucci). I would assume that many of those invited to Ralph’s chic Soho atelier had been running to shows all day, or were coming from business, and would not have time to go home and change to evening wear just for the show.

Ralph had traditionally closed New York Fashion Week with the last show on Friday evening but this season, he showed on the first night (either way, a fitting beginning or end). But regardless of when he shows, (or what he requests), the one thing that is undeniable, is his amazing talent, imagination, and creativity. And the excruciating precision and execution that goes into each and every piece. The smaller and lighter showroom (certainly much more intimate than the Bryant Park Tents), with its white walls, mirrors, and dramatic wall mural, proved to be a perfect venue in that it provided those in attendance with an up close and personal look at the astounding workmanship and craftsmanship inherent in the museum quality pieces (the Met’s Harold Koda and FIT’s Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears, both clad in Chado Ralph Rucci, were seated in the front row).

The run of show stated that ‘levels of seduction’ (blatant and subliminal) would be an underlying theme and indeed, it was (this has been somewhat of a Ralph Rucci signature). I’ll even go as far as to say that some of what was shown (including the shoes that tied up the legs), had a somewhat bondage, fetishest feeling (Naughty Ralph!), but of course, done in the most elegant, ‘haute’ way possible. The dark color palette, with an emphasis on navy and especially black, provided the perfect mood and backdrop and was highly effective. Almost nobody can do as much magic with black as Ralph Rucci, thanks to employment of texture (an almost 3D quality), fabric mixes, and the use of transparency. In fact, some of the most incredible pieces on the line were noir, among them: the ripped black wool crepe on silk tulle dress and coat, a black silk tulle and ripped cashmere suit (the idea of tearing or ‘ripping’ fabric and hand sewing it onto silk tulle, was a theme), the dramatic black jersey and taffeta gown with fur trimmed hood, the black knitted mink and fox coat, the black leather zipper jacket and skirt, the black spiral sable and horsehair coat, and the black wool crepe and tulle slip dress with a black braided wool crepe jacket which was one crowd pleaser in particular. I must also make mention of the brilliant black broadtail pieces (who else but RR can make broadtail look as lightweight as silk?). Oh, and in case you’re wondering, I was glad I didn’t change from my orange wellies: a quick look around the room confirmed that not too many of the guests (as well heeled and well dressed as they were) took the ‘evening dress’ request too seriously

BCBG and Max Azria’s inspiration for fall 2010 is the “urban tribe”. His show notes spoke of a “clean and modern approach to fashion”, finding that perfect combination of form and function. How that played out was in a mainly neutral palette (various shades of gray and black), enlivened with shots of vibrant color (mainly blue and yellow), transparent pleating, painterly geometric patterns, color blocking, and galactic prints. As usual, there was the employment of layering, asymmetrical cuts, and draping. Belts defined waists and legs were clad in cream tights (perhaps not the most flattering unless you have perfect legs). While there was an emphasis on the dress (a Max Azria signature), there were more separates his season.

Richard Chai said he was going after a “sophisticated non chalance” (love that idea) for the collection he now calls ‘Love’. I guess he must be in love with the cool girls, because that is the group his clothes seem destined to show up on. Of course, just wearing his pieces could make almost anyone look ‘cool’. Mr. Chai’s collections always exude a streetwise sensibility and are always about the play of soft and hard, masculine and feminine, day and night, other seemingly contradictory, unorthodox pairings, and playing with proportion. This time around, in addition to a wide selection of pants (everything from ribbed leggings to slouchy boyfriend trousers in a variety of lengths), he is also in ‘love’ with a tubular, long lean ribbed skirt and dress. The soft, neutral and sophisticated color palette was easy on the eyes, the knitted pieces were beautifully done, the Saga Furs smoke fox belly vest and coat added texture and ‘luxe’, and once again, it was Richard’s wonderful way with tailoring (perfectly cut and perfectly oversized boyfriend jackets and military inspired, structured coats, some with a military feeling in fabrics like felted wool), that were standouts.

The Duckie Brown label is always synonymous with clean lines, tweaking the classics, and adding fun to traditional wardrobe staples for the guys. This season, the best pieces were the mixed plaids (Stewart Plaids, Watch Plaids, Brush plaids, and Tartans); the well tailored lacquer red wool topcoat, and the lime green mini trench.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Red Hot: The Red Dress Collection 2010

On Thursday, the Heart Truth Red Dress Collection returned to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, making its eighth appearance at New York’s Bryant Park. The annual runway show combines the talents of some of America’s top designers and celebrities from the world of entertainment to raise awareness among women of the threat of heart disease. This year, the event moved from its usual morning time slot to the evening, which only increased the party like atmosphere that always surrounds this much anticipated show.

As always, the “fish out of water” aspect of the Red Dress Show is what makes it so enjoyable. Each celebrity faces the daunting task of maneuvering down the long red catwalk, which always makes for some unexpected surprises. Reality TV star Bethany Frankel waged a constant struggle with her short Isabella Oliver dress to prevent it from riding up and revealing too much of her pregnant physique. Actress Felicity Huffman received an impromptu kiss from her husband, William H. Macy, as she made her way in a design by Oscar De La Renta. That’s So Raven’s Raven-Symone kicked up her heels and sent her Brian Atwood shoes flying as she completed her walk, and Olympic swimmer Dara Torres barefooted her way down the runway, carrying her uber high heels in her hand as she modeled a short Rachel Roy Dress.

Two of the loudest ovations of the evening went to two of television’s legendary stars. Valerie Harper, appearing on Broadway, proved that she is nothing like her alter ego, Rhoda Morgenstern as she strutted in a Pamella Roland creation. Joan Collins, best known for her role as Dynasty’s Alexis Carrington Colby, made a grandiose walk in her Stephane Rolland gown.

For the second time, some of the dresses worn by celebrities in the Red Dress Collection will be available for the public to bid on at clothesoffourback.org. Accessories and other items from the show can also be purchased through the online auction, which benefits the National Institutes of Health.

-Rhonda Erb

The Daily Bet

MSI’s Wind U135 Netbook

Candy and flowers are nice but your gadget loving Valentine might prefer something a little bit more hi-tech. The MSI Wind U135 10” netbook has an easy to use chiclet keyboard and its 6-cell battery gives 7.5 hours of battery life. It’s the first Wind Netbook to run on Intel’s Pine Trail Platform and it comes in four colors, including ruby red.

www.msimobile.com, $329.99

-Rhonda Erb

The post Ralph lets it ‘Rip’ appeared first on lookonline.

Day 3

And if it’s 7 pm at the Tents, on the final night of New York Fashion Week, this must be Ralph Rucci, right? Wrong. Talk about disorienting. Not only is fashion week going from Thursday to Thursday this season, rather than Friday to Friday, as it traditionally has, but there were a number of changes to the show schedule early on, which really threw things off kilter for many of us. I know it did for me.

Chado Ralph Rucci has long held the coveted spot as the ‘official’ last show of the season, and given the beauty of the collection, and the tremendously unique and rarefied talent of Mr. Rucci, all of us have considered it a bona fide treat and the perfect high note with which to end the week. But this season, his show was held on Saturday evening at 7 pm, at the Tent at Bryant Park. When I exited, I couldn’t help but feel as though the week was over even though it’s only just begun. Oh well, I guess one can argue it’s a wonderful way to start the week.

The collection was undeniably remarkable, hitting all the high notes, and including the myriad themes and references that have come to define RR’s oeuvre and aesthetic (the detailed insets, the hand sewn blocks of wool crepe sewn onto tulle panels, the braids of leather and silk woven together, the incorporation of textures found in traditional basket weaving, the references to human anatomy, the homage to Japanese culture, the use of feathers and horsehair, etc.) It was signature Ralph, and I couldn’t help but think the song playing in the background, with the words, “Stop trying to change me; I am what I am”, was meant to reiterate that fact to the show attendees.

But of course, the design process is always about refining, improving, and evolving, especially for a perfectionist like Ralph. This season, the late Pina Bausch’s “personal style and nonconformist choreography” served as strong points of reference throughout (still photographs from her performances were amazingly screened onto silk gazar creating strong, graphic visuals). And this season, Ralph was palpably more controlled, and more ‘low keyed’ than other seasons, and rather ‘reserved’. There was no haute couture shown, only ready-to-wear, (which, for RR is practically one in the same anyway). In place of beads and crystals, silk tulle and chiffon were shredded and sculpted into layers, enabling him to actually create his own fabrics and his own vocabulary of textures.

Quite frankly, it was some of the ‘simpler’ items that really stood out: like the perfectly proportioned chic black pantsuit that began the show; the black matte jersey cartridge pleated deep v neck dress; the lacquer red silk faille dress; the amazing silk/wool gazar and gros de longres coats; the black double faced wool crepe vertebrae tailleur, and the white double faced sponge crepe vertebrae gown that was the finale. Volume was held in check and there wasn’t even one ‘Infanta’ in sight. Come to think of it, the only voluminous ‘gown’ in view was not only the runway (well, not quite), but worn by Andre Leon Talley: a white ‘Papal’ coat which had so much fabric, I theorized he needed 3 seats to contain it.

By the way, the change in the show time was not the only surprise involving Ralph Rucci. Mr. Rucci is a man of many talents as we all know. What we didn’t know (well, most of us anyway) is that RR is also very much into boxing, as was reported in The Daily on Thursday. The interviewer asked Ralph how he felt about high end designers pairing with low end companies (you know, like Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney for H&M, or Isaac Mizrahi for Target, etc.) He said he thought it was basically absurd…like crafting an “Hermes bag from plastic”. I got a kick out of that because awhile back, I joked (sort of), that it would be great to see the couturier put his name on a popular and affordable brand. Maybe Ralph might change his mind sometime down the road? After all, a collaboration with Everlast, for example, would be a fitting scenario.

‘Class’ic Act

The Chris Lemaire for Lacoste spring/summer 2010 collection for men and women, shown yesterday morning, (dubbed ‘Out of the Blue: Simply Sporty Chic’), was an homage to the timeless and chic classics, (which in some cases were re-imagined, with proportions ‘tweaked’). It could not have been timelier considering that yesterday was Super Saturday at the U.S. Open (though a soggy one at that), and factoring in the iconic company’s history vis-à-vis the sport of tennis. And it certainly looked good. After so much black black black for this fall season, all the white which not only opened the show in the form of classic tennis whites, but showed up later by way of crisp tailored suits, sportswear separates, swimwear, and dresses, looked particularly fresh and appealing. As did all the shades of blue – varying shades traditionally associated with Provence (these were often presented in mixed hues and in mixed patterns, but with silhouettes that were simple and clean).

Also making a statement were the crisp striped shirtings, shirtwaist dresses, polos, and the different takes on the classic French sailor striped pullover that is so ‘of the moment’. And talking about tweaking the classics, one heavily cabled ivory v neck pullover trimmed with black stripes was elongated so much it could be worn as a dress, and a black cire nylon hooded anorak, was given new life when cropped to the waist, given short wide kimono like sleeves, and paired with crisp white shorts. The finale, all in sunny fluorescent yellow (a mix of sportswear pieces and swimwear, accessorized with bright yellow sunglass frames for both the guys and the gals) was especially welcome considering the dismal, dreary, gray day outside. It was accompanied by the upbeat song, “I’m a believer”. Don’t forget: young Georgian tennis sensation, Melanie Oudin, who lost in the quarter finals last week, had the word “Believe” on her tennis sneakers. Is this any indication that Lacoste is planning to use Melanie as an endorser of their products, much like Andy Roddick?

-Marilyn Kirschner

Christian Siriano

It would be hard to deny that Christian Siriano is in a class by himself in the ever-growing list of “Project Runaway” designers. He has parlayed his plucky personality, and natural marketing ability into a mini fashion empire. On “Fashion’s Night Out”, Siriano could be found at Saks Fifth Avenue, posing for photo after photo with his adoring fans. Those who cannot afford his ready-to-wear line at Saks can pick up a pair of his shoes at Payless.

On Saturday, Siriano debuted his third collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Those in attendance included “Project Runway” regulars like Nina Garcia as well as Hollywood actresses like Tori Spelling.

Soriano’s Spring 2010 line was inspired by the idea of Mediterranean Travel. It began with some rather over the top looks that featured wide brim hats that overpowered the earth tone pieces that they were paired with. He was much more successful with his more subtle designs that drew attention to delicately ruffled shoulders and other intricate details.

Some of the designer’s best looks featured rich volcanic or oceanic prints in deep hues of red, orange, or blue. Siriano used this print for one of his floor length gowns, which featured a bubble like skirt. The print didn’t fair as well on a form fitting body suit that looked more like a costume than a ready to wear outfit.

Siriano has a flair for the dramatic, and this is best expressed in his eveningwear. The three gowns which closed his show featured yards of cascading layers of fabric. It was a fitting finale for a designer who has definitely arrived.

– Rhonda Erb

“The Daily Bet” by Rhonda Erb

Designer Vivienne Tam and HP have collaborated once again on a custom-designed netbook. The “Digital Cutch” debuted last night on the runway, during Tam’s Spring 2010 fashion show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. The notebook design, like the designer’s 2010 collection is based on the Chinese love story, “Butterfly Lovers.”

Available in Spring 2010

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