Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 Collection Photos: firstView.com (click on image for larger version)

Prabal Gurung, may have used illusion, among other things, to great effect for his spring 2012 collection, but there’s nothing at all illusionary about his formidable talent.The fashion world is understandably going gaga over this relatively new, young talent, and for good reason. And apparently, Lady Gaga herself (of whom Prabal is an avowed fan) is similarly besotted, as she showed up dressed true to form (not at all like her male alter ego at the recent American Music Awards Show) for his noon show at the IOC Building on West 18th Street. Let’s put it this way, I can well imagine LG wearing many of the designs shown yesterday, both on stage, as well as for personal appearances.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 Collection

It was a supremely feminine, purely masterful, and exuberant collection: sculptural, colorful, graphic, filled with flights of fancy, imagination, creativity, and technical know-how, and it perfectly illustrated why PG was most assuredly deserving of his 2011 CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear. As in past seasons, but perhaps even more so, Prabal’s fabrications were beyond amazing, and just reading the program notes whet your appetite for what was to come: engineered surreal floral print hand pleated silk chiffon; air brushed ombre latex, floating hand embroidered silk chiffon, hand painted latex razor pailletes, ombre filigree cloque, hand cut recycled rubber paillettes, laser cut mesh fused lambskin and more.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 Collection

Once again, Prabal proved himself to be a masterful tailor and a skilled dressmaker, as evidenced by the black silk and wool tailored jacket with sculptural white cotton faille lapel and peaked shoulders, shown over a draped back violet floral print crepe de chine shirt with black collar; and the black white silk chiffon hand embroidered mille-feuille coat with graphic tulle inserts shown over a violet surreal floral print silk georgette tee over violet engineered surreal floral silk and wool track shorts. In addition, his blouses are some of the prettiest in town. This is exemplified by a white silk sleeveless shirt with violet engineered surreal floral print hand pleated silk chiffon panels and long hem shown with an ash white techno cotton pant with black grosgrain ribbon tuxedo stripe.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 Collection

If the sound of flutter sleeves, floral prints, silk chiffon flowers, and accordian pleats immediately conjure up something demure and overtly ladylike, you might want to think again. It also included two of the fiercest, yet most elegant, black dresses I’ve seen in a while — a black illusion tulle hand embroidered dress with hand cut recycled rubber pailettes and whirlpool crystal beading, and a black silk georgette halter gown with athletic graphic tulle inserts.

While I may not like the word “trend” (as I have said, it’s more of a tool for magazine copywriters and retailers and, as we all know, it doesn’t have a thing to do with personal style),  there have been emerging themes from the collections shown these past few days. Among the three that are hard to ignore are floral prints and patterns; the use of strong upbeat color, especially in clashing, jarring combinations (is it me or do several designers seem to have Howard Johnson’s on their minds, what with all the brash combinations of orange and turquoise?); and, perhaps most importantly, the infusion of active sports and athletic wear in streetwear, as seen in shapes, colors, and details (ponchos, anoraks, hoods, sweatshirts, tee shirts, zippers, snaps, mesh insets, track pants, shorts, leggings, sneaker type lace up footwear, etc.).

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2012 Collection Photo: firstView.com

On Friday, Cynthia Rowley, showed a collection that was a study in black, gold, and sports themes, as well as Rag & Bone, a label that always infuses impeccible tailoring with active sportswear and a host of other eclectic touches. Throughout Prabal Gurung yesterday, there were scuba track shorts, athletic graphic tulle inserts, and racerbacks. Earlier that morning, there was the Lacoste runway show, perfectly timed with the semifinals of the US Open. It also marked the debut of a new creative director at the helm, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, whose mission was to restore the house to its utterly French (très Parisienne), purely chic, effortlessly elegant, luxurious sportswear roots. To that end, he kept the color palette mainly neutral with an occasional splash of red or orange; played with and often stretched proportions; re-imagined the signature pique polo dress (it came short with dropped armholes or to the floor and cut out on the side); turned rubgy shirts into graphic, color blocked dresses, and sent out a lineup of desirable and classic outerwear. By the way, I have to mention the utterly chic and très useful bags which were on every seat; a mini version of one of the handsome hand held bags used on the runway, they came in black, black and white, and camel suede with red and black patent trim.

Alexander Wang Spring 2012 Collection Photo: firstView.com

But by far, the most definitive, modern, eye catching, techno sportswear collection thus far, was shown by Alexander Wang last evening at the vast Pier 94 . No surprise there, as these have been constant themes throughout his collections, though for spring 2012, he was obviously inspired by motorcross and Nascar racing, not to mention the street style that has always been a major undercurrent in his work. His stellar lineup of silk parachute dresses, sheer sweatshirts, racing suits, color block leggings, and body conscious intarsia knitwear in strong shades of tangerine, violet, teal, black and white; while his footwear of choice was a pointy toed ankle strap shoe on a sculptural heel in optic white.

The “Daily Bet” by Rhonda Erb

The Body Shop Body Butter Duos

These dual sided tubs of scented moisturizer are like two products in one. One side is ultra thick and rich for dry areas like elbows and knees and the other is a light cream for normal skin. Choose from four delicious scents: Vanilla, Macadamia, Acai, and Sweet Pea.

Available at: www.thebodyshop-usa.com , $18

The post It’s (Not) Just An Illusion appeared first on lookonline.

Style.com ran a feature in the days leading up to the beginning of Fashion Week, called Front Row Chatter, with a number of discussions leveled around New York Fashion Week’s hot topics. The one that really got me smiling, and nodding my head in total agreement, was the one posing the question: “What’s up with street style photography?”

The subject, of course, was the ubiquitous phenomenon which is hard NOT to notice. “The Monster that ate Fashion Week”: the rise of the street style blogger, the informal catwalk outside the shows which has all but overshadowed the runway shows. The fashionista “tryhards” who are dressing for attention, piling on trends just to get noticed, and “working overtime to get photographed”. GQ’s Will Welch does not find any of this to be inspiring, but rather, pathetic.

As he put it, “A good litmus test is, are you dressing totally differently during fashion week than you do any other time? If so, maybe you should ask yourself why?” Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think there is anything wrong with tweaking your look during fashion week. There is certainly nothing wrong with going into your closets, finding new and interesting combinations, or dusting off styles you may not have worn for awhile but are starting to look good again. Actually, I find that quite satisfying.

But to put yourself together looking like you are going to a costume party, or to feel as though you have to go out and stockpile on the trends du jour, is not only costly, but stupid and ridiculous. The effects will backfire. The key thing is knowing what suits you and sticking with that. If a ‘trend’ does not flatter you, or is irrelevant to your lifestyle or age, simply don’t go for it. If it’s in sync with your own personal style, then embrace it – if you so choose.

I personally loathe the word “trend” and I loathe the concept; it’s so mechanical and impersonal (paint by numbers), but I am using it for lack of a better word. I also think the word is far too abused and overused especially by so called “style experts”. As we all know, true style has nothing to do with blindly following trends. Anyway, what’s so great about being trendy or ‘on trend’? How about looking just plain great?

This always reminds me of two things. 1 – Mirabella Magazine’s monthly feature called, Just Great, which highlighted outfits and pieces that transcended any trends, that the editors apparently thought were, well, just great. 2 – The late great Geoffrey Beene, who was always tired of being asked by editors, “What’s new?” As he recounted, he would have preferred to have been asked, “What’s great?”

Come to think of it, there’s a third: The fabulous late Joe Eula, whom I once shared an office with at Harper’s Bazaar in the 70’s, pranced up and down the hallways announcing: “I’m b to d with f” (I’m bored to death with fashion). Me too Joe. Well, sort of, especially when it comes to boorish public relations firms who fail to act professionally. They confuse who they are with who they work for.

I am finding myself being drawn to people who have a signature look and stick with it. The ones who always look like themselves, and not like they are trying to be someone else. And if you think about it, why would you want to look like everyone else? If something becomes very “in” maybe that’s the time to forget about it and do the opposite. So much more interesting.

My personal pet peeves are those who are truly the “posers” of the world, though I won’t name names – you know who you are, or at least, you know who THEY are. I guess you can say anyone who wears a giant apple sculpture on his or her head falls into that category (plus, it’s rude to block the view of people sitting behind you). Other pet peeves are those show goers who jump seasons and completely dress in a way that makes no sense for the weather. Why do fashionistas automatically think they have to swathe themselves in fur just because it’s fall, or fashion week? That is so un-modern.

Even worse, this past Thursday, I spotted a young woman wearing a faux fur shaggy vest just the thing for a damp, soggy, muggy day in early September – NOT! Then there are some young women who insist on running around in see through clothes leaving nothing to the imagination which is not only ugly but downright dangerous especially in a big city, and plenty who continue to teeter around on unwieldy stilettos and platforms, which are so difficult to walk in. They practically need to hold onto someone in order to stand upright. Can you please tell me what is so good looking about that???? I agree totally with Ines de la Fressange who offered, “Many women think they look better in heels but this is quite wrong. Just ask any man.” No man would ever say “I’d love you more if you were four inches taller!” Nothing looks worse than a girl tottering about on unmanageable heels! The key to sex appeal is a feline walk, not a precarious wobble.!!

Mara Hoffman Spring 2012 Collection Photo: Randy Brooke

Going back to the idea of “Just Great”, even though the Mara Hoffman show started late because the show before, Rebecca Taylor, ran very late. And even though guests were kept waiting in a rather stifling, un air-conditioned hallway, it was all worth the wait. I’ve always thought Ms. Hoffman was a true talent, with a very signature, specific point of view. She is known for her colorful, bohemian fashions. This season, she was inspired by the personal style of a Mexican woman, notably, the iconic artist Frida Kahlo for her 20 piece collection, dubbed “Mexican Mamas” which was shown installation style on models.

Mara Hoffman Spring 2012 Photo: Randy Brooke

The custom prints were all designed in house. There was an abstract tribal, a woodcut, geometric dots with orange and purple colorways, ticker stripe embroidery, a black and white woven print, bright colorful tiny animals, and a group of bright serape striped knits. There were jumpsuits, tunics, and tea length column dresses; there were plenty of embroidery and hand weaving and the use of sheer over opaque. Holst and Lee’s ethnic, colorful rope necklaces were layered to excellent effect. The hair on all the models were wrapped with beads and rope, and the same custom fabrics used for the clothing, were also used for wrap and tie platform sandals.

While goodie bags and gifts in general have been few and far between, when I exited Lincoln Center after the show, I was offered a chic little black and white striped bag from a woman who was handing them out. Little did I know that the bag opened up to be a tote. Inside, there were a pair of black ‘patent’ ballet flats trimmed with a white bow, courtesy DSW. Since I was dressed in black and white, and my Prada pumps were starting to kill me, this gift could not have been more welcome. I quickly changed and the smile came back on my face.

The “Daily Bet” by Rhonda Erb

Moët & Chandon

Thanks to the drenching rains in New York earlier this week, tennis fans will have one more day to enjoy the US Open, now that play has been extended through Monday. Moët & Chandon, the official champagne of the US Open, has designed 2 limited edition commemorative bottles to celebrate the 2011 championship. The crystallized bespoke US Open flame magnum and 187 ml mini with a bouncing tennis ball are available through /September 11, 2011.

Available at: www.mymoet.com, Magnum, $199.99; 187 m, $35.99

The post Just Great appeared first on lookonline.

BCBG Spring 2012 Collection (Photos: Firstview.com)

When I went out for my usual run on Thursday morning, I saw something so novel, something so rare as of late, it was positively indescribable. I’m referring to the sun. And because I’m such a hopeless optimist, I took that as a good luck sign that the week ahead would be charmed and filled with positive energy (hope springs eternal). Of course, later in the day, I heard the news that there had been a “specific and credible yet unconfirmed” report about a possible terrorist attack timed for the upcoming 10th anniversary of 9/11. A sobering reminder of the new reality. But life goes on, and the shows must go on, and while we must be vigilant, we can’t let them win by virture of giving in to paralyzing life changing fear. (I live very close to Ground Zero, and watching the transformation of that space, has been truly amazing).

I, of course, remember that day very vividly (I lived uptown at the time). I also remember the night before, because what has stuck in my mind, is how wet, windy, and rainy the evening of Monday, September 10th was. It was so rainy, you could hear and feel the rain hitting the ceiling of the Tents at Bryant Park; even the subways had begun to flood. And so, by contrast, it made the glorious weather on Tuesday, September 11th, seem even more so. When I heard the news about the two attacks, prior to leaving my apartment for the shows, I had a sinking feeling that this would be life changing, whatever it was. By the time I got off the subway and began walking from Lexington Avenue to 6th Avenue, you could see hordes of people standing in the middle of the street, looking downtown to the sky, and not believing what they were witnessing – the two towers were immersed in smoke. I knew, right then, that Fashion Week would not be going on as usual and, more importantly, everything would quickly change. By the time I reached 6th Avenue and the entrance of the Tents, both towers were no longer there. It was chaos with everyone milling around, trying to make phone calls, etc. And then of course, they posted a sign that Fashion Week had been cancelled and I, like many others, began walking home.

BCBG Spring 2012 Collection

That being said, the first show I saw yesterday, BCBG Max Azria, got things off to an upbeat start, dedicated as it was to an “urban, global spirit” by way of saturated brights, color blocking, neutral accents, tribal prints, and embroideries. The label’s signature fluid shapes, elegantly elongated proportions, and weightless fabrics, were all in place, but this time, there was the surprise of sports infused vibe. If you’re thinking Nike or Adidas, well, not quite. I’m not implying that Max & Co. are forgoing their supremely feminine designs in favor of active sportswear, warm ups, and sweats. Au contraire…the artistic touches, the alluring necklines, the soft, fluid dresses, and the beautiful fabrics are still in place; it’s just that one of their niftiest ideas this season happens to be the unexpected pairing of their silk crepe and georgette dresses, with a chiffon hooded ‘sports’ jacket (complete with functional, oversized pockets). If I have any criticisms, it’s that there was no real ‘daytime’ to mention, not one real coat, and only one pair of pants in the entire lineup.

Richard Chai Spring 2012 Collection (Photos Firstview.com)

A decided sports and athletics theme continued in the Richard Chai Love + Mens Spring 2012 show. Do I really need to point out that the biggest ‘sports’ related fashion event would be at night, with that veritable ‘marathon’ shopping event, better known as Fashion’s Night Out? There were biker shorts, basketball jerseys, basketball and board shorts, baseball and polo shirts, bomber jackets, racer back t’s, oversized tanks, mesh insets, safari jackets, elastic waists, and zippers galore (plus, almost everything was accessorized with a flat, lace up oxford) .

Richard Chai Spring 2012 Collection

But here, as well as at BCBG, it was hardly Locker Room thanks to expert tailoring, perfect proportions, and eye catching color and pattern mixes. And of course, beautiful fabrication: cotton sateen, washed lyocell denim, cotton linen printed snake skin, drape jersey, coated cotton drill, and Swarovski Elements pearl beading (that was just for the gals).

Richard Chai Spring 2012 Collection

Some of the standouts for me, were the relatively simple cut out shoulder shirts, the masterful use of mitred stripes (striped insets on a t shirt which was shown with lean striped trousers), the narrow pants which had a removable pleated front kilt that might be tricky but seemed to work here, and the interesting combinations and unorthodox layering, exemplified by the khaki/navy linen cotton double stripe asymmetric blazer worn over an electric pink silk diamond jacquard arc seam tank and chalk/charcoal silk water rose printed flared trousers.

The Supima Design Competition, held at the Studio at Lincoln Center, showcased 5 works from 8 design students, all of whom created designs they were either cocktail dresses or evening gowns made of Supima cotton – considered to be ‘the world’s finest cotton’. The CEO of Supima introduced Rachel Zoe, who informed the audience that the winner would be announced following the runway presentation. She said that she was “blown away” by the amazing talent on display, and admitted she would consider hiring some of those featured, after their graduations, of course.

And, the winner was: Jusil Carroll, an FIT student whose high waisted evening gowns and cocktail dresses were delivered primarily in black and gray, were made of corduroy, dyed twill, dyed and digitally printed shirting, digitally draped jersey, bleached and hand painted denim, and boasted leather embellishments, leather shoulder harnesses, self trains, and draped skirts. By the way, on every seat at this show, there was a black and white printed Supima cotton canvas tote bag filled with an assortment of goodies, including a black one size fits all Brooks Brothers Country Club poncho in its own pouch so large it could fit me and at least one other person.

Tadashi Shoji said in his program notes that his inspiration for the spring 2012 line, was the “enchanting beauty and splendor of the tulip”, as conveyed by photographer Ron van Dongen. He even included a quote from The Tulip Anthology in his run of show “So, in the tulip, we have a flower of beauty and grace, of charm, refinement, and distinction. It is a powerful flower and it knows it”. I guess you can say he seems to be totally obsessed with tulips. Perhaps a tad too much so. While some of it worked, it was a bit too literal at times, what with the tulip shapes, rosette sleeves, petal details, floral appliqués, and the dresses that were most successful – lean gowns in hand painted silk linen, the ivory tulle and embroidered lace halter dress, the short sleeve transparent gown; the light fern and willow hand beaded blouson gowns; the ivory nude tulle and embroidered lace pieces, the ivory silk chiffon v neck cross back gown), were far more subtle in their homage.

– end

The”Daily Bet” by Rhonda Erb

Instant Definition Mascara from Clarins

This new mascara gives you luxuriously long, lush lashes thanks to a newly patented brush that lengthens and thickens even your tiniest lashes. The rich, long wearing formula is clump free and smudge proof.

Available at: www.clarins.com, $24.00

Long Wear Liquid Lip Color from Stila

 An ultra moisturizing lip color that stays on all day without making your lips feel dry and uncomfortable.  It glides on and delivers a matte, creamy finish.
Available at: www.ulta.com, $22.00

The post The Sun Also Rises appeared first on lookonline.