Legends of the ‘Fall’

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

Diane Von Furstenberg dubbed her fall collection, ‘American Legends’, and in her run of show, she went on to describe that “fearless” woman who “knows who she is, and who she wants to be”. Of course, she might as well be describing herself; undoubtedly, she knows of what she speaks since let’s face it; DVF is a bonafide ‘legend’.

I don’t need to point out that Diane made her name with prints and patterns, and while the rest of the fashion world has now caught on (what could be more ‘of the moment’?), this has been her claim to fame for decades, and it’s what put her on the map. And while naturally, graphic prints and patterns (graphic stripes, abstracts, oversized florals), were a big part of her well attended show, held at Lincoln Center yesterday afternoon, it was hardly the only story. It was also one of her strongest shows to date. She and Yvan Mispelaere delivered a well balanced, appealing, and varied 51 piece lineup that included prints and solids; strong colors used tonally (down to the boots and bags), and surprising color mixes, as well as neutrals, nude and black. And when black was shown, it hardly looked like an ‘afterthought’, whether used alone or in combination with red (as it was throughout).

This imparted a decidedly Spanish flavor, as did the use of chic black Gaucho hats, gaucho pants and gaucho jumpsuits (some of which could be mistaken for dresses), and high heeled tall suede boots with fringe trim. (FYI, culottes and gauchos have been showing up on many runways this season, and considering that they can be tricky, difficult to wear, and unflattering, I am always surprised to see them reappear. On this particular runway, there were some wearable versions).

The emphasis at DVF has traditionally been on the dress, especially the iconic wrap dress, as was the case yesterday. And they looked good whether hitting just above the knee, midcalf, or floor length (done in silk, crepe, lace, or chiffon, sometimes embellished with sequins, and almost always paired with the aforementioned boots). But the nice surprise was the strong separates (good looking jackets, skirts, pants), that could easily go from day to evening, and particularly, the outerwear and furs. This has been very much a coat and fur season, and at DVF, there were some good looking wool coats (and Mongolian chubbies) that made use of strong color, down to the underpinnings and accessories (red, shades of blue, and unusual greens were the order of the day).

That 70’s Show

Tory Burch Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos: Firstview.com)

The lobby of the main entrance to the Tents was jam packed with people waiting in line to view Tory Burch’s fall collection – a testament to her growing popularity, her growing brand recognition, and her growing empire. While it was billed as an informal presentation from 2:15 – 3:00, it was nonetheless, a runway show, and as the rotating audience made their way into the venue, it was timed so that the models would come out in several distinct groups, posing at the foot of the runway, each taking her turn down the runway.

This season, it’s apparently all about the 70’s for Tory (and that is not exactly unfamiliar territory for the designer). The overall silhouette was long (and I mean LONG, from midcalf to floor length); the color palette was neutral with an emphasis on earth tones (paprika, rust, brown), ivory, navy, burgundy, and black. There were lavish fur trims (fur collars on coats, fur trimmed hoods, massive fur trimmed sleeves), below the knee length chubby Mongolian lamb vests, gutsy tweeds and oversized plaids, boxy cardigan suits with ladylike bow blouses, full cut tunics (some with lavish embroidery) worn with pants, natty pantsuits, and the use of a side pleated pant so wide and so long, it looked like a skirt. Footwear came in the form of luggage leather tall boots with a high chunky heel, and a square toed chunky heeled loafer.

My overall impression was that the clothes were sometimes cut so full, they were even unflattering on the models (which does not bode well for the average sized gal), which is somewhat puzzling since Tory herself is tiny boned and quite petite and normally favors a more controlled silhouette.

In like a ‘Lam’

Derek Lam Fall 2011 Collection (All Photos Firstview.com)

Derek Lam’s run of show began with the George Balanchine quote, “There are no new steps, only new combinations”. Well, ain’t that the truth! Why pretend that there is anything really new under the sun when in fact, it’s all been done before? Tell it like it is and call a spade a spade. Derek isn’t a designer known for trying wanting to reinvent the wheel, or wanting to come up with a 5 sleeved jacket. With Derek Lam, regardless of what the seasonal ‘inspiration’ might be, you always know what you’re going to get: wonderfully proportioned, expertly tailored, beautifully fabricated American sportswear: standout coats, capes, anoraks, parkas; perfectly cut jackets, pants, and skirts; and always beautiful eveningwear.

And there’s nothing wrong with that. He’s wise enough to know that it’s the way these wardrobe staples are recolored, re- proportioned, and most importantly, re-fabricated, that can make the difference. Certainly, these days, it’s all about new technology and fabric innovation which has the ability to change things around and help make our lives easier, more comfortable, and hopefully, let us feel and look better.

The fall collection he showed yesterday was all about seasonless layering: eliminating rigid bulk, a goal which is not only practical, but timely, modern and relevant. And he succeeded, using fabrics like pebbled leather, silk rayon twill, wool stretch flannel, waxed mink, crinkle wool challis, laundered silk crepe, along with vintage wool serge and blanket stripe wools, alpaca shearling, all of which played out in his signature chic, neutral palette. It looked luxurious yet grounded, streetwise, and utilitarian, including the beautiful evening gowns, some of which were made from laundered technical satin, rayon technical twill, and laundered technical poplin, along with the more traditional silk chiffon, silk jersey, and lambskin.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb


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The post New York Fashion Week Notes: Day 4 appeared first on lookonline.

Nobody does sporty chic, quite like Michael Kors and the collection he showed yesterday, filled with luxurious takes on “quintessentially American wardrobe staples” was “all about ease” (as described it in his run of show). The 64 pieces (both women’s wear and menswear and there were plenty of things for the guys that I wouldn’t mind having), played out in a chic neutral color palette consisting of camel (camel and more camel), smoke, anthracite, gunmetal, and of course, black and white. It was choc a block with great pieces and desirous wardrobe staples (great cashmere sweaters, sumptuous cross fox furs and fur accessories (flings, anorak coats, even a skirt), sporty anoraks, balmacaans, military coats, chesterfields, reefers, pea jackets, metallic tweeds, perfect trouser suits, silver cire storm coats, draped jersey and paillette jersey dresses). Every length and every proportion was shown and Michael seemed intent on infusing his signature, iconic pieces with an updated sexier edge.

To that end, ruggedly sexy boots or brown leather sandals (both on platforms) were used, and the body was visible even beneath the most oversized furs or classic of menswear inspired coats, thanks to the use of deep v neck cashmere sweaters or almost see thru mohair voile pullovers. Notable examples are the white Melton chesterfield shown over a white cashmere v neck pullover and a floor length white cashmere skirt, and the camel crushed cashmere pea coat worn with a smoke mohair voile pullover and smoke stretch flannel trouser. (Both of which, in addition to many other items in the collection, I could easily envision on Melania Trump- who was seated next to The Donald in the front row) Michael experimented with fabrics and surface textures by crushing and crinkling cashmere (giving his stellar outwear a somewhat lived in, wrinkly look), he also used distressed leather, and slashed (or slit) the elbows of some of his chesterfields, making them look as though they were ripped or torn but in fact, he was allowing for the narrowest of sleeves.

Coincidentally, when I left Michael’s show, I noticed that my vintage mink bolero had rips and tears on two sides. Instead of panicking or looking for a safety pin to temporarily patch it up, I thought of Michael and simply decided to go with the flow and let it ‘rip’.

Tory! Tory! Tory!

The many reasons for Tory Burch’s amazing success were very much apparent at her morning fall 2010 installation held at the Bryant Park tents. Even though it was very early, the venue was jam packed, filled with energy, not to mention the signature clothing, handbags, boots, accessories that now bear the name of Tory Burch. It looked fresh, modern, youthful, and appealing and was all about great, accessible, well priced wardrobe must haves. There were great coats, jackets, tweeds (many of them shot with lurex). Abstract painterly prints broke up the solid colors, and there was very little black but when it was used, it was highly effective. (such as the black t shirt with long sleeves shot with lurex, shown with pants tucked sportily into boots and accessorized with a black hood and leather envelope clutch adorned with gold nail heads (it shouldn’t be surprising to hear that Tory’s bags, which have been successful hits since the get go, were all standouts at yesterday’s lineup yesterday).

There was also a cropped black Mongolian lamb jacket paired with camel pants. The grouping in camel was especially strong, including a chic knee length coat thrown over a silvery tweed dress or the camel hand knit sleeveless sweater and matching knitted cap, paired with orange pants and accessorized with the crepe soled luggage suede high heeled lace up booties that were used throughout (and are destined to become best sellers next fall). I’ve always thought nothing looks as good with camel as orange by the way, and since orange is known to be Tory’s favorite color (and her signature), it’s not surprising that she has perfected a particular orangey/red shade which showed up in several other places. There was even an orange sweater and skirt ensemble (further accessorized with orange tights), that might have looked perfectly elsewhere but at TB, it looked chic as hell. Other notable outfits: the blue tie dyed mohair coat showed with cobalt leggings and the army green utility anorak thrown over a dress and tights in a matching abstract Jackson Pollack- worthy print.

FYI, I have known Tory since my Harper’s Bazaar days (I was the senior market editor way back when she was an assistant). I’ll be the first to admit that when I first heard years ago, that she was starting her own line, I, like many others, was skeptical and thought that this was just another attractive, chic, well connected socialite with extra time on her hands, putting her name on a clothing line. And I had my doubts that this would really take off the ground in any big way. Boy, us doubters were we all proved wrong. It became very apparent very fast, that she had a major success on her hands and all I can say is it is well deserved…she is not only talented, with a fabulously chic taste level, and highly focused, but she is sweet and nice, doesn’t take her success for granted, and does she let it go to her head (What an unusual combination!) Congratulations Tory!

Out on a ‘Lim’

I’m a fan of the young and talented Phillip Lim and have come to appreciate his inventive way with classic wardrobe staples, his melding of seemingly disparate influences, wonderful offbeat mixes and contrasts, and his ability to infuse many different elements into a collection. Phillip Lim described his inspiration for fall as a woman “boiling with youthful revolt but distinguished by unexpectedly classic style” who has said “goodbye to too much glitter and too much skin and is looking for something more polished and streamlined”. Working in a neutral color palette (the color palette of the season): camel, ecru, grey, charcoal, hunter green, amber, buff, and black, there were suspender skirts, airy mohair pullovers, silk crepe tuxedo blouses and one great gold tweed tuxedo pantsuit, and a group of electric purple paves sequined dresses with asymmetrical hems.

But as usual, the emphasis was on Phillip’s stellar outerwear, especially outerwear with more volume than we’ve seen in awhile, from pieced lambskin and shearling coat, grey merino wool oversized ponchos with side lacing, and camel double face coats to voluminous cape coats in outsized checks, some of which were binded in leather, a la Bonnie Cashin. Is it my imagination, or was the late Bonnie Cashin, who I’m also a huge fan of, having collected some of her great coats through the years, somewhat of an inspiration?

-Marilyn Kirschner

“A Rising Star”

This year’s winner of the Fashion Group International’s coveted Rising Star Award for womenswear, Peter Hidalgo, showed his Fall 2010 collection at FGI’s venue yesterday. The presentation was a chic and concise display of body conscious silhouettes and clever draping that portrayed a distinct point of view. Hidalgo’s dimensional creations are intricate, but not overdesigned. The Dominican born designer apprenticed under the famous fashion illustrator, Antonio Lopez. “I was more of an illustrator before, but now I drape everything. I need to see how the fabric is going to fall, how it reacts,” Hidalgo said. When I asked him about the technique behind his black strapless “heart” dress Hidalgo explained, “I started with a v-neck and the pieces just fell down that way and created the shape.” The heart concept was manipulated in different ways throughout the collection showing up in neckline shape, draped folds and as a beaded appliqué. The underappreciated designer has endured for nearly two decades in this difficult industry — perhaps the heart shape was a symbol of the dedicated Hildalgo’s passion for design.

-Stacy Lomman

Anna Sui’s Arts and Crafts Fare

The wonderful thing about Anna Sui is that her collections always focus on a theme. This season her Fall/Winter 2010 runway show, held in the Tent at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, paid homage to the arts and crafts movement with a decidedly retro rock and roll edge. Appropriately, Peaches Geldoff, daughter of rock star Bob Geldoff, was seated front and center to observe the proceedings.

Sui mixed textures and patterns in layer upon layer to create looks that were homespun yet fresh and contemporary. There were jacquard knits, shearlings, silks and sequins in earthy tones like mushroom, rust, wine, cornflower and olive. Accessories included Adrienne Landau furs, James Coviello knit hats, and textured tights from the new Anna Sui Legwear Collection.

There are always ultra feminine looks in an Anna Sui collection and this one was no exception. The dusty blue/navy silk jacquard dress was particularly flattering as was the plum metallic velvet burnout dress. Other noteworthy looks included the short cocoa cardigan trimmed in velvet and paired with a metallic chiffon dress and a navy knit jumper over a print dress made of bamboo twill.

Sui saved her best for last, closing the show with vintage inspired dresses crafted of antique ivory lace and velvet that were exceptionally beautiful.

-Rhonda Erb

And Now For Something Completely Different: Douglas Hannant Rocks the Kaye Playhouse

Last season Douglas Hannant debuted his Spring 2010 collection at New York’s Plaza Hotel to coincide with the opening of his flagship store in the city’s venerable landmark. The location was just a stone’s throw away from the homes of his loyal Upper East Side followers. This season the designer took his show right into their backyards. His Fall 2010 showing was held on Wednesday afternoon in the Kaye Playhouse, located right off Park Avenue.

The audience included the usual attendees like Cece Cord and Kimberly Guilfoyle, but everything else about the theatrical showing was decidedly unexpected. Using the artist Jean-Michel Basquit as his inspiration, Hannant decorated the stage with graffiti covered panels and the models walked to a hard driving 80’s rock soundtrack courtesy of DJ Russian Bear. Surely this was not the Douglas Hannant we have come to know.

Leave it to Hannant to mix conventional elements like houndstooth checks and tweeds with graffiti inspired prints. A body hugging chocolate brown tweed banded dress was shown with a teal fox fur jacket and a leopard beret complemented a velvet and tweed jacket and skirt ensemble. Hand painted prints decorated stove pipe jeans and a short skirt. The color palette included metallics in silver, gold, blue and green as well as bright red and violet.

Douglas Hannant may have strayed from his roots with his fall collection but he has not forgotten who his customer is. His tailoring always complements the body and his 80’s inspired looks were all completely wearable. As always, Hannant closed his show with his signature formal gowns. He managed to infuse elegance into his graffiti stylings with a full-skirted taffeta gown and an exquisite sequin column dress that would be a stand out in any collection.

– Rhonda Erb

The Daily Bet

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– Rhonda Erb

The post Tory! Tory! Tory! appeared first on lookonline.

Why pay more when you can pay less? Sounds like the slogan for Target (and it is certainly appropriate as such). But ever since Payless ShoeSource (www.payless.com) came on board, they have been winning customers with their hard to resist prices. Well, okay, so Prada or Louboutin they’re not, but where else can you find shoes for under $25 and boots for under $70 that look very similar to much more expensive versions out there?

No doubt, one has to really pick and choose in order to find something really great, but with designer collaborations like Lela Rose and Laura Poretzy, (the name behind the label Abaete), it’s gotten a bit easier. Coincidentally, both gals were just inducted into the CFDA this past week along with 28 others.

And great timing because last weekend, there was an eye catching advertising insert included in the Sunday newspapers (The New York Times and The New York Post). The chic gold and white mini brochure was getting the message out, that Payless was launching their limited-edition fall 07 Collection by Abaete. Included within the group of bags, clutches, platform sandals, flats, and wedges was the most wonderful tall boot selling for $70! Called the Cabri, it immediately grabbed my attention as it is chic as all get out.

Among its features are a low stacked heel, black ‘patent’ cap toe, nickel side zipper, and (this is the best part) you get two boots in one. The over the knee boot converts by simply zippering off the upper shaft. Now, that’s what I call a good idea.

And speaking of ‘cheap thrills’ and Payless, that is where I found a pair of black leather (okay, so they’re probably pleather) ballet flats decorated with a distinctive gold medallion that were a ‘dead ringer’ for Tory Burch’s now famous, ubiquitous and much copied ‘Reva’ shoe. But instead of being well into the 3 figures, I paid under $20. FYI, it’s also available in gold. Run, don’t walk to your nearest Payless.

-Marilyn Kirschner

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