Mary wearing a Fortuny style dress of her own design, Vogue, circa1980, Photo by Horst P. Horst
The extraordinary life of Mary McFadden, October 1, 1938 – September 13, 2024, was celebrated on Tuesday, November 5 at 583 Park Avenue. McFadden was known for her artistic brilliance, world travel, and influence on high fashion.
Her career, which spanned seven decades, was marked by her unique Mari pleating and designs inspired by diverse cultures from Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and ancient Greece.
Mary McFadden’s signature dresses on display – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
McFadden’s adventurous spirit was reflected in her personal life, which included travel to over 60 countries and 11 marriages. At this special gathering, she was remembered for her influence on fashion and her disciplined and fearless approach to life.
One of many guests wearing a Mary McFadden design – photo by Marilyn Kirshner
About 200 guests (friends and family) were present at the event, which featured mannequins showcasing McFadden’s creations along the balcony of the notable venue. Many guests wore Mary’s designs. Recorded interviews were played, such as her 1984 conversation with historian Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel.
Marilyn Kirschner and Ruth LaFerla, photo by Jeffrey Banks
It doesn’t seem like 30-40 years ago when I attended Mary’s shows and frequented her vast loft-like garment center showroom searching for beautiful dresses for Harper’s Bazaar’s photo shoots.
“Mary’s work and her legacy are timeless and they deserve the right to survive” Kohle Yohannan
Select items from McFadden’s vast collections (artifacts and travel treasures) were available for purchase, enabling guests to walk away with a parting keepsake – a final gift from Mary herself.
Amy Fine Collins is trying on beads – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
Some exceptional pieces included massive cuffs, stone pendants, jeweled chokers, exotic tabletop accessories, and crystal chalices. All proceeds will support the Mary McFadden Fund at Drexel University, which recently hosted the retrospective “Modern Ritual: The Art of Mary McFadden.”
CFDA CEO Steven Kolb – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
McFadden was the first female president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, serving from 1982 to 1983. Unsurprisingly, the CFDA was well represented yesterday afternoon with CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Lisa Smilor, Executive Vice President, Stan Herman, former CFDA President, and Jeffrey Banks, a longstanding CFDA in attendance.
Caterine Sanchez with Alexander Howard, Mary’s nephew, and John McFadden, Mary’s brother – photo by Marilyn Kirschneer
Also present were veteran fashion fixture Fern Mallis, Amy Fine Collins, fashion journalist Ruth LaFerla, jewelry designer Maria Snyder, philanthropist Barbara Tober, and the always colorfully dressed freelance writer, editor, TV host Christopher Mason, and fashion designer Caterine Sanchez who was Mary’s assistant and helped organize this event.
Mary McFadden’s ex-husband Kohle Yohannaan speaking about Mary – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
For guests’ convenience, the gathering took place from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., with loved ones slated to share memories at 3:30 p.m. and anyone from the audience who wished to do so. Kohle Yohannaan, 29 years Mary’s junior and one of her ex-husbands, provided the emotional, entertaining, and enlightening highlight.
The couple, who tied the knot in June 1989, had a short-lived (22 months) and notoriously tumultuous marriage. Kohle painted a picture of someone who lived by her own rules and encouraged his optimism as a young person.
Stan Herman and Jeffrey Banks – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
She was an adventurous, fearless, competitive athlete who was game for anything. Highly recognizable everywhere, rail thin with ivory skin and onyx tresses, Mary was always in 4-inch heels. Even wearing tennis shoes, Mary seemed to be teetering in stilettos observes Kohle
“Mary had a pedigreed personal style with a permanence impervious to trends. A mix of old-guard high society and beat-generation bohemianism, Mary was glamorous uptown and cool downtown. She was profoundly different. There was no one like her.” – Kohle Yohannan
Kohle likened Mary to PT Barnum in that she had the mystical ability to empower women and get them in touch with their own inner goddesses because that is what she did for herself daily. He observes that Mary seamlessly identified with popular culture and easily straddled the realms of creativity and history.
The Venue – photo by Marilyn Kirschner
“Not every designer designs things for posterity; they design for the day” observes Kohle. As he notes, perhaps the best of fashion isn’t in the present. It might be in the past. Maybe it’s in the future. Mary had her feet in both worlds.
Mary lead a self-determined life as an adventurer, a rebel, a dedicated scholar and a really true romantic. Gone but never forgotten, Mary lived true to herself. In fact, Mary truly lived says Kohle, who emphasized the word, ‘truly’.
He encouraged everyone to look around and learn more about Mary McFadden and the McFadden Family’s Drexel University connection and the project to preserve her legacy for future designers.
Latest Comments:
Wow, fantastic weblog format! How long have you ever been blogging for? you made running a blog glance easy. The…
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
Love my portrait Thank you Michel Haddi!!!!
Such a fun and bold take on fashion! Love how this collection brings a fresh, playful energy to the scene.
Beautifully written with fashion, identity, and branding intelligence!
I look forward to every article. Thank you.
Mary McFadden Designs were sumptuously BEAUTIFUL as is your tribute to her