The MFIT Couture Council Annual Luncheon

The Luncheon, photo by Laurel Marcus

For those who perhaps didn’t get to visit the Cote d’Azur this summer, the south of France came to us as wunderkind designer Simon Porte Jacquemus (born and raised in Provence) received the 2024 Couture Council Award for Artistry in Fashion bestowed by the Museum at FIT during the annual luncheon at the David H. Koch Theatre at Lincoln Center.

Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, Valerie Steele, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Lara Meiland Shaw, Sarah Wetenhall, Melissa Mafrige Mithoff, photo Laurel Marcus

The luncheon, which heralds New York Fashion Week, was sponsored by Nordstrom for the fifth consecutive year — Pete Nordstrom remarked that he’d like to make it six years, so sign him up again. Meanwhile, it was reported that the Nordstrom family has offered $3.8 billion to take the department store chain private and bring it back into the family’s hands.

For those who may not know (moi aussi), Simon Porte Jacquemus has been in business for 15 years (since 2009, when he was 19) as a self-made independent Parisian brand that creates both men’s and women’s wear. His inspiration is his late mother (Jacquemus was her maiden name), who died a year before he started his brand.

Fern Mallis, Jean Shafiroff, and Nadja Sayej, photo Laurel Marcus

MFIT Director & Chief Curator Dr. Valerie Steele introduced him during the luncheon. She remarked that Jacquemus had been inspired as he “imagined this woman in an evening dress with a straw handbag”—how “simple and chic” she was. What she didn’t mention: according to Fashion Week Daily, he is on the short list of those auditioning for Virginie Viard former job as creative director of Chanel.

Sharon Jacob, photo Laurel Marcus

Up until earlier this summer, I only knew him as the creator of those ridiculously tiny, usually brightly colored handbags that could perhaps carry a few matchsticks and maybe a credit card if you wedged it in the right way.

Fern Clausius designer, photo Marilyn Kirschner

Lest you didn’t know it was a Jacquemus original, the gold lettering on these teeny totes is reminiscent of the raised kind generally seen on a suburban mailbox. Inspired by art, architecture, film, and social media, the designer is known for holding his fashion shows in “off the beaten track” endroits.

Marisol Deluna, photo Laurel Marcus

In July, Jacquemus presented his Fall 2024 collection in what was termed ‘the impossible show.’ Models walked the runway on the rooftop of the architecturally renowned Casa Malaporte along Capri’s rocky outcroppings, a location that can only be reached by boat. This unique setting added a sense of intrigue and inspiration to the event.

Jean Shafiroff and Marilyn Kirschner, photo Laurel Marcus

Casa Malaparte is cinematically relevant as it was the site of Jean Luc Goddard’s 1963 “Le Mépris” (“Contempt” in English), which starred a very young Brigitte Bardot. Other remote fashion shows have included a Parisian swimming pool, at the Musee Picasso, a lavender field in Provence, or a wheat field outside Paris.

Lizzie Asher and Lilah Ramzi, photo Laurel Marcus

This was my fourth consecutive year attending this once-rarefied event, and I have to say it seemed to be missing a certain “je ne said quoi.” Many of the usual celeb faces of the fashion monde were not around, and other less stellar folks had usurped their places or been invited as guests. It’s possible that it depends on the honoree to attract the big names.

Left: DiMondo & friend, photo by Laurel Marcus

Although Jacquemus will be opening his first NYC store in Soho on October 18, he is not yet well known here in the Etats-Unis. However, President Pete made sure to announce that Nordstrom has carried his line since 2017.

Jane DeFlorio, photo, Marilyn Kirschner

Still, it was a beautiful day to enjoy cocktails on the second-floor terrace overlooking Lincoln Center. The diverse’ fashion’ choices of the attendees, both good and, ahem, shall we say, ‘questionable,’ added an element of entertainment.

Chic guest, photo Marilyn Kirschner

It’s always interesting to see who wears the designer du jour. Since Jacquemus’s designs are sometimes blatant and can be all over the place style-wise (other than the previously mentioned often apparent handbags), it was exciting to try to spot his creations out in the wild.

Stefano Tonchi and Sarah Wetenhall, photo Marilyn Kirschner

After the lunch of root vegetable salad with mint; lemon garlic poulet accompanied by vin blanc ou rose, the honoree accepted his award, “At 19, I launched Jacquemus with nothing more than a dream — no resources, no contacts — just a clear vision to redefine fashion, to approach it from a fresh perspective. Today, 15 years later, Jacquemus is a house with over 300 employees, and I’m proud to say that we remain independent. For me this is an invaluable achievement.”

Stacy Engman and Cameron Silver, photo Laurel Marcus

He remarked upon how looking around the room at attendees he was thrilled to see them wearing items of his in which only ten were made. He also expressed excitement to open his store on 147 Spring Street next month. “I feel good in America, and especially in New York. I think Jacquemus and America have such a strong love story.” And then he was off to FIT to meet with students, one of whom, Patrick Garry was honored with The MFIT Student Award.

Threesome with Lauren Day Roberts, photo by Laurel Marcus

He can add this award to his 2024 Neiman Marcus Award for Innovation in the Field of Fashion as well as his recent decoration as a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters from the French ministry for advancement in culture — the youngest fashion designer to do so.

Every year, I think the event gets shorter—this year, the luncheon wrapped up by 1:45 p.m. as attendees sauntered out, blinking into the midday sun.

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Laurel Marcus

OG journo major who thought Strunk & White's "The Elements of Style" was a fashion guide. Desktop comedienne -- the world of fashion gives me no shortage of material.

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