Unforgettable: Looking back at 2022

This is the time of year when we are urged to reflect on the past 12 months in fashion. If fashion proves anything, it’s that too much of a good thing is too much!

At times, 2022 seemed a blur of “Valentino PP Pink” (when H&M starts knocking it off, it’s time to move on) and blue denim. Speaking of which, can we finally put the anti-skinny jean campaign to rest in the coming year? They look pretty good at Celine and Alaia.

If I see one more article that claims that skinny jeans are dead, I will scream. It’s ridiculous. Fashion is all about proportion and the way clothes are worn.

I’ve already aired many of my gripes, having previously written about the things that I dislike, but the truth is, there is a lot that I like. Even though we’ve all been inundated with seemingly endless collections this past year, some images remain indelible.

2022 marked the 60th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s first fashion show. Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello honored the long-lasting memory of Yves and channeled his enduring elegance with a strong fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection. It was sophisticated, womanly, restrained, and bold and went to the heart and soul of the fabled label.

Coats (chesterfields, trenches, bombers, and pea coats) were the undeniable stars. Anthony’s muse was the legendary fashion icon, shipping heiress, writer, and political activist Nancy Cunard, known for her armloads of bangles. Can we please have more fashion muses like Nancy and fewer like Kim K and Julia Fox?

Another standout was Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent 2023 spring menswear show, held in Marrakech in July. Anthony wisely sidestepped clichés around the mythology of Marrakech and YSL and instead focused on sensational variations of le smoking and strong-shouldered coats.

Anthony succinctly blurred the lines between what constitutes a ‘masculine’ wardrobe and what makes clothes ‘feminine’ with this ultra-chic collection rendered almost entirely in black. I rarely look at a menswear show and covet most of it, but I did with this one.

Rick Owens’ gothic otherworldly fall 2022 runway show had models walking solemnly encircled in clouds of smoke, giving the whole thing a cinematic, magical feel — especially as they came out in a group for the finale like an army of well-dressed apocalypse survivors.

Many were swathed in protective outerwear: long wool coats topped with cozy stoles; armor-like vests and jackets with football player-esque shoulder pads or life jacket-Esque inflation; elegant capes with a “Lord of the Rings” vibe; puffer-coat capes with exaggerated sleeves trailing on the floor; futuristic coats adorned with tufts of fur. Signature Rick and just fantastic!

At once classic and subversive, Thom Browne’s spring 2023 menswear show in Paris was highly entertaining, done with wit and humor, a visual feast, and a brilliant tweed tour de force. For Thom, it’s all about pushing the envelope, honing in on craft, and infusing classic American style with French haute couture.

And then there are those little details that you won’t see elsewhere. Who else but Thom would make a crisp white cotton shirt and add a trompe l’oeil Cartier or gold Rolex watch on the cuff? Brilliant.

Joseph Altuzarra’s excellent fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection imagined mythical nautical explorers (and the mermaids who might lure them to danger) through the lens of luxury. The gutsy pea coats, some with stand-up shearling collars, mariner sweaters, long wool skirts modeled on a kilt (like the one Altuzarra had made for himself in Scotland), and swaggering leather outerwear looked great and were meant to withstand the elements.

The finale was sensational, comprised of a group of skirts, coats, and gowns covered in over-sized golden discs to create a mermaid-scale effect (and a powerful statement as the embellishments announce their wearer’s arrival).

Peter Do consistently creates beautifully constructed garments built on razor-sharp tailoring, architectural construction, and natural textiles that combine refinement, comfort, and whimsy. Do’s long, languid designs, color-blocked suits, doubled-up maxi coats, beautifully crafted leathers, and couture-like sequins are strikingly modern, luxurious, and wearable.

The Olsen twins presented their outstanding Spring 2023 ready-to-wear show for The Row in a beautiful 18th-century building in Paris this past week September. With its powerful simplicity, purity of lines, faultless fabrication, and emphasis on everyday chic, the collection was a breath of fresh air; a palette cleanser that had many recalling 90’s Jil Sander.

A few extraordinary moments on the runways this year were courtesy of designers who used repurposed fabrics to create something new. One of the most stunning was Olivier Theyskens’ remarkable 26-piece spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection. It was entirely made by hand using fabric scraps from his 20-year-old archives.

A dress made up of a mosaic of shimmering sequins became a modern version of a mystical Byzantine icon. Slight hues of metallic give way to long-sleeved, lamé patchwork dresses in silver, bronze, and gold combined with mustard velvet. An ultra-long black coat made from an appliqué of discarded scraps of cut leather was reassembled into an accumulation of tulle.

While reflecting is good, it’s far more fun to look ahead. Paris Couture Week for Spring 2023 takes place from January 23 – 26th. One highly anticipated show will be Jean Paul Gaultier with haute couture guest designer Haider Ackermann at the helm. Ackermann promises to pay homage to Gaultier’s quiet side, particularly his tailoring prowess. It should be extraordinary.

Later this year, we will see Ken Downing’s vision for Halston. A premium sportswear line, still under wraps, is scheduled to launch at retail in spring 2023. When Downing was named creative director in August, he promised “change and continuity” for the storied brand.

Of course, Michael Kors did just that, brilliantly channeling Halston’s elegant, sporty, minimal glamour with his spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection (the Peretti-like accessories were a tad too literal). What will Ken do to top this? Stay tuned!

Latest Comments:

1. 

   I look forward to every article. Thank you.

2. 

   Mary McFadden Designs were sumptuously BEAUTIFUL as is your tribute to her

3. 

   I feel as if my words were delivered by you, Marilyn! Our time was vibrant with beauty as part of…

4. 

   Great insights into New York Fashion Week—finding standout pieces is key!

5. 

   Laurel Marcus…..loved this article, wish I knew about this show. Please do more of this!