Left: Celine Pre Fall 2018, Photo by Monica Feudi for Indigital.tv, Right: Brandon Maxwell Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for Brandon Maxwell
I’ve seen it all as someone who has covered fashion for 50-plus years. It’s hard for me not to find cross-references within fashion collections. After all, there is very little new under the sun.
The way Rachel Tashjian, The Washington Post’s fashion critic, sees it, the biggest trend at fashion week is copycats. “Everyone is knocking off the Row on the runways for fall 2025,” opines Tashjian. There’s no question the Olsen twins’ aesthetic has infiltrated the fashion landscape. However, I continually see vestiges of another designer, Phoebe Philo, and not only in the actual designs.
Celine Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for Indigital.tv
In life, as in fashion, God is in the details; little things mean a lot. Something so seemingly subtle can make a difference. Phoebe Philo knows this very well. She is adept at turning something relatively simple into something statement-making with a quick gesture.
Philo has mastered a particular styling technique, using an accessory as a prop to enhance the overall look. This season, I’ve noticed two that keep reappearing, and Phoebe seems to be the originator of this trend.
Left: Celine Fall 2017, Photo by Monica Feudi for Indigital.tv, Right: Brandon Maxwell Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for Brandon Maxwell
As far back as the Celine Fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection, I’ve noticed that Philo often throws a blanket (normally used on couches and chairs) over a model’s arm on the runway. It’s a prop but a clever way to add color, pattern, or texture to an otherwise simple outfit.
Phoebe Philo Doodle Blanket, $1900, and Doodle Top, $900, phoebephilo.com
Philo is consistent. She loves a good blanket. Like Linus, we all want a blanket’s comfort, warmth, and security. Even if we are not necessarily wrapping ourselves in it, a blanket adds another dimension to an outfit.
Celine Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for Indigital.tv, Michael Kors Collection, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo courtesy of Isadore Montag for gorunway.com
Michael Kors enlivened a camel coat with a hefty mohair fringed blanket in the same shade. Brandon Maxwell added more pattern to a patterned outfit, using a blanket and scarf tied at the waist (a la Philo).
Brandon Maxwell Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
It’s not just about blankets. The same effect can be achieved with a sweater, a coat, a jacket, or a scarf. Brandon used a faded denim jacket to offset an otherwise luxurious leather skirt, maxi skirt, striped shirt, and cashmere pullover.
Left: Celine Pre Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for Indigital.tv, Right: Luar Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Hunter Abrams
At Luar, a long black and white patterned scarf added a touch of intrigue to a black tunic and pants ensemble, showcasing the versatility of this styling trick.
Celine Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Monica Feudi for FeudiGuaineri.com
The second styling trick involves taking a handbag or an oversized tote and holding it like a clutch, sometimes turning it, putting your arm through the handles, and carrying it sideways.
Left: Celine Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Gianni Pucci for Gorunway.com, Right: Luar, Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Hunter Abrams
I can trace this as far back as Celine’s fall 2011 ready-to-wear. Again, it’s a styling trick without a specific purpose other than being an affectation. It certainly isn’t useful; if anything, it’s rather unwieldy.
Quilted oversized crossbody bag, $490, cos.com
I remember years ago when the clutch trend started to take hold. An editor at Vogue likened carrying a clutch (and many enormous iterations featured) to the impracticality of having one’s arm in a cast.
Regardless, based on what I’ve seen this past week, it’s a styling trick with legs (or arms).
Latest Comments:
My fave is the Gorski. Best look and function to me!
A Marvelous Tribute to IRIS, a one-of-a-kind work of art!
You beautifully, tastefully, and rightfully said it all. I do think Melania’s Adviser Herve Pierre influences her choices.
Fascinating article–fascinating man! Thanks, Marilyn!
LOVE all of this. Thank you, Marilyn. <3