Thom’s Tweed Tour de Force

Thom Browne’s spring 2023 menswear show was held at the Hotel Crillon on Sunday, the final day of runway shows in Paris. I don’t usually get excited when I see a menswear collection, but Thom Browne is not just any designer, and his fashion shows, which resemble nothing else, are ‘must see’; always highly conceptual and extravagant, if not deliciously over the top.

At once classic and subversive, the formal presentation was highly entertaining, done with wit and humor, a visual feast, and a brilliant tour de force. For Thom, it’s all about pushing the envelope, honing in on craft, and infusing classic American style with French haute couture.

And then there are those little details that you won’t see elsewhere. Who else but Thom would make a crisp white cotton shirt and add a trompe l’oiel Cartier or gold Rolex watch on the cuff? Brilliant!

Take away the funky face obscuring anchor headdresses, the punkish spikey hair, the fetishist jockstraps, crystal mankinis, and the hairy legs (well, it’s a men’s show, after all), and what you’ve got are beautifully made luxuriously fabricated sensational clothes. One can easily imagine the shrunken jackets, abbreviated coats, vests, shorts, pleated skirts, mini dresses, and trousers worn by women. Quite frankly, that’s who they are far more suited to.

Each of the 34 pieces in the collection was worn by a male model carrying a paddle on which the outfit number was engraved, as done in the old ateliers. But, to prove his point about gender-less fashion, Thom made sure he got the gals into the act.

Marisa Berenson, Farida Khelfa, Anh Duong, Amy Fine Collins, Cate Underwood, and Sasha Pivovarova, all favored customers, are all dressed to the nines in Thom Browne ensembles accessorized with patterned knee highs and pointy-toed, heeled brogues. They rushed in after the show appeared to get underway, apologizing for their tardiness as they took their front-row seats. Of course, this was well-choreographed.

“It wasn’t particularly Chanel, but more an homage to French couture shows. When I think of couture and France, I think of tweeds,”

Thom Browne

The show began with a group of sedate gray shrunken suits, some worn beneath tan ¾ length toppers (a simple Thom Browne uniform), but what unfolded was a bonanza of tactile, highly textural, deluxe tweeds, all made in the South of France from the same factory that supplies Chanel. It was all perfectly accessorized with crisp shirts, ties, ankle socks with Thom’s signature stripes, and great flat loafers.

Everything, including the loafers, briefcases, and boxy handbags, was covered in the luxurious nubby fabric. Many of the pieces, some of which were finished off with embroidery, had raw unfinished edges. There were tweeds in red, white, and navy, Easter shades of pink, green, blue, yellow, and a chic black and white smattering. Thom’s color sense is extraordinary.

Even though Thom explains that his inspiration for the collection is more French couture than Chanel, it’s hard not to make comparisons, though, in this case, I would say it’s Chanel on Steroids! This isn’t the first time I’m reminded of Coco when I look at Thom’s tweeds and his impeccably cut, slightly shrunken jackets and coats with their small shoulders and high armholes.

Actually, the more I think about it, Thom would make a much better designer for Chanel than Virginie Viard, whose uneven (I’m being kind) collections are mired in the past. Coco was known to detest the past and was a very modern, forward-thinking designer; a rebel of her time. Just like Thom.

Other comparisons? Chanel’s signature tropes are immediately identifiable, and when women attend a Chanel fashion show, they deck themselves out in Chanel from head to toe. Thom Browne’s clothing is instantly recognizable as well, and his devoted fans, both male and female, dress as an homage. They don’t just wear a jacket but rather go whole hog! Call it “The Cult of Thom!”

Latest comments…

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   I look forward to every article. Thank you.

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   Mary McFadden Designs were sumptuously BEAUTIFUL as is your tribute to her

3. 

   I feel as if my words were delivered by you, Marilyn! Our time was vibrant with beauty as part of…

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   Great insights into New York Fashion Week—finding standout pieces is key!

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   Laurel Marcus…..loved this article, wish I knew about this show. Please do more of this!