Beyond the Ballgown: Something About a Woman in a Tuxedo

Women’s Tuxedo, $360, madhumancouture

The components of a traditional tuxedo create a timeless look that often outdoes the “fancy schmancy.” Tuxedos, with their powerful and elegant aesthetic, challenge conventional norms and provide versatility and comfort. Their understated elegance and rebelliousness make them a classic choice for women, exuding a sense of sophistication and intrigue.

A well-fitting tuxedo conveys a sharp, polished, and elegant appearance. Unlike restrictive or cumbersome dresses, a tuxedo can offer more freedom of movement, which is beneficial for dancing or long events. Moreover, tuxedos can be customized and personalized with various accessories (hats, brooches, gloves) to create a unique look.

Daniella Kallmeyer and Louisa Jacobson wearing Kallmeyer, photo Instagram

At the CFDA Fashion Awards on Monday night, there was all manner of dress. With her long, lithe frame and cropped hair, Louisa Jacobson stood out in the “Benny” blazer and lace-trim “Chloe” tuxedo shirt from the Kallmeyer resort collection, paired with custom pants inspired by a spring 2026 style. It was a very cool take on tuxedo dressing.

Ralph Lauren Collection Eli Lambskin jacket, $4290, Jeanne wool gabardine pant $1390, ralphlauren.com

FYI, Jacobson is a muse for Daniella Kallmeyer, who was nominated for the CFDA Women’s Wear Designer of the Year. The Award went to Ralph Lauren, known for creating some pretty fabulous tuxedos himself, often juxtaposing menswear tailoring with a beautiful blouse. Ricky Lauren wore a version of that on Monday evening.

This is just my opinion, but tuxes worn by women seem to suggest an independence, and also a confidence of a sophisticated someone who doesn’t necessarily need to do something overtly sexy to draw attention to herself.” – Paul Smith.

Anh Duong wearing Dolce & Gabbana, photo by Marilyn Kirschner

French American artist, actress, and model Anh Duong is always one of the chicest women at any event. I photographed her at the ABT Fall Gala at Lincoln Center a few weeks ago, looking wonderful in a cropped Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket and a black silk bow shirt. Instead of trousers, Anh wore a heavily embroidered pencil skirt. No need for yards and yards of chiffon, or unnecessary overstatements. Perfection!

Dorothy Mackaill wears a tuxedo in the 1920 film

The concept of wearing tuxedos is hardly new. The first noteworthy appearance of a woman wearing a tuxedo in history was in the 1920s. Dorothy Mackaill was one of the first to wear a tuxedo on set and in a film; she did so for her role as the main character in ‘The Crystal Cup’, a 1927 movie.

Marlene Dietrich, photo by Snap Rex Shutterstock

Just three years later, Marlene Dietrich stunned audiences in a tuxedo and a top hat in the movie, ‘Morocco’. Marlene’s role – and outfit – shocked audiences, and the movie has gone down in history as an important piece that pushed boundaries of modern cinema and defied the social norms of the time.

Despite these appearances on the silver screen, women wearing tuxedos hadn’t yet hit mainstream fashion, nor would the high street have dreamed of promoting tuxedos to women. Scandalous as Marlene’s outfit seemed, the general public accepted it as part of the film and didn’t envisage the tuxedo having a place in a woman’s wardrobe in the real world.

In 1966, tuxedos for women entered the fashion world when Yves Saint Laurent debuted the ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo jacket for women. This iconic piece was a reinterpretation of the traditional men’s tuxedo, featuring a sleek silhouette, a satin lapel, and a nipped waist. In 1975, Helmut Newton helped the ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo jacket secure its place in fashion history with his iconic monochrome photographs for Vogue magazine.

Sabine Getty wearing 70’s YSL, photo Instagram

Sabine Getty was more than happy to tap into this iconography at the Venice Film Festival in September, donning a 1970s YSL tuxedo, Belle du Jour pumps, and her blonde hair blown out in a style reminiscent of Catherine Deneuve back in the day.

MME. Mink velvet tuxedo jacket, $725, photo by mmemink.com.

Yves Saint Laurent created a new fashion template for ultra-posh women who were confident, worldly, and sexually liberated. His tuxedos remain iconic. Wonderful iterations are always available, and at all prices. MME. MINK’s beautifully crafted Tuxedo Jacket, $725, is made of Italian Milanese Velvet with Venetian satin trim.

Alex Eagle X J. Crew tuxedo jacket, midrise trousers, white tuxedo shirt, photo jcrew.com

J. Crew recently collaborated with London-based creative director and designer Alex Eagle on a capsule collection of timeless pieces. The collection includes a tuxedo blazer with a contrast shawl collar, an oversized fit, and a nipped waist ($498), cuffed mid-rise trousers in a cotton and wool blend ($278), and a crisp white cotton tuxedo shirt ($228). Madhuman Couture’s black tuxedo jacket and trousers will only set you back $360. (Refer to lead shot)

Anne Fontaine, Arena Black Tuxedo Shirt. photo courtesy Anne Fontaine

Leave it to Anne Fontaine, known for her distinctive white shirts, to create a modern black tuxedo-inspired shirt designed to blend timeless tailoring with feminine sophistication.

The Arena shirt, $595, features a crisp white front panel, classic point collar, and black button-front closure. It includes a detachable black bow tie for a versatile, elevated look that stands on its own.

Marilyn Kirschner

I am a long time fashion editor with 40+ years of experience. As senior market of Harper's Bazaar for 21 years I met and worked with every major fashion designer in the world and covered all of the collections in Paris, London, Milan and New York. I was responsible for overall content, finding and pulling in the best clothes out there, and for formulating ideas and stories.

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