Doyle New York Auction of Vintage Couture, Textiles and Accessories

On Tuesday, April 11, 2006 at 10am, Doyle New York will hold an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories representing the vitality of international historical fashion spanning two centuries. Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale will also include important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles. The public is invited to the exhibition on view from Saturday, April 8 through Monday, April 10. Doyle is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.

Early rare European highlights include a blue silk 1926 ombre fringe dress from Chanel (for similar see the Costume Institute’s tautly edited ‘Chanel’ p.187) and a significant Jeanne Lanvin early 1920’s Robe de Style in embroidered black silk taffeta, a version of which is in the Kyoto Costume Institute. The Post War years are well represented, with a focus on Chicago-born Mainbocher, the first American to open a successful couture salon in Paris in 1930 and best known for the wedding gown he designed for Wallis Simpson on her marriage to the Duke of Windsor. A collection of his designs for a single client from the rarified wilds of Long Island’s North Shore are being auctioned on behalf of the Grenville Baker’s Boys and Girls Club, each reveal the symbiosis of couturier and client with Mainbocher’s restraint breaking out into a sumptuous range of pinks, her favorite color.

In addition there is European couture from Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Valentino, Chanel and Lacroix among others, American classicism is illustrated with Trigere, Galanos and Beene, the latter with a selection of early 1960s Beene designs – so Mod, so contemporary – each of which makes us ponder the common creative thread as compared to his later work – parity of line? The spirited 60s include a sinuous Ossie Clark python coat, the wit of fashion is exemplified by Lagerfeld day dress applique with a sequined Chanel bag, Galliano’s newspaper print gloves with a recipe for a ‘Couture Cocktail’, Schiaparelli’s ‘Watch Watch’ among others, Miyake’s silver foiled shirt dress from 1998, and Prada’s passementerie conclude the century.

Costume jewelry includes Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, Miriam Haskell and Amourelle, the range designed by Frank Hess after he left Haskell, and a collection of Coppola e Toppo who are to costume jewelry as Pucci is to fashion, unmistakable lively 1960s Italian design. Textiles include rare examples of the work of Angelo Testa, a product of the Chicago Bauhaus school, as well as Asian and American pieces. In addition to a colorful array of Hermes Kelly and Birkin bags, a selection of fine Gucci is offered.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006 at 10am

Saturday, April 8, 10am – 5pm
Sunday, April 9, Noon – 5pm
Monday, April 10, 10am – 4pm

Doyle New York, 175 East 87th Street, New York, NY 10128

To have your couture, costume jewelry, textiles and accessories evaluated for possible consignment in the Couture, Textiles and Accessories auction, please contact:

Clair Watson
Director, Couture Department
Tel: 212-427-4141, ext. 603



Ernest Schmatolla is publisher of Lookonline since 1994. It is the longest running fashion site on the Internet.

1 Comment
  1. I attended the aforementioned auction! It was very amazing, to say the least. I am very into fashion and coutour clothing (well, whatever I can afford, that is). I just wanted to say that I had a great time there and wondered if anyone else was able to go. By the way, I found a great fashion website you should visit if you like fashion shows:

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