Ms. Bravo
spoke of the famed Lauder Family, and their “amazing values”.

FF:
“Meeting the board members in shorts is a challenging moment” he joked. “Can you
imagine that the first time meeting my board members, it  was early in the
morning and I was wearing shorts?”

Ms. Bravo
recalled that challenge when she first took over as CEO of Burberry, quickly
turning the iconic British company into a global fashion mega
brand. “At
Burberry, I was labeled a workaholic. How do you balance your life and encourage
balance in the workplace?”

FF: “To keep it a high
growth company. We are and want to continue to be the fastest growing company
focused on prestige cosmetics”.

The post A Conversation with Rose Marie Bravo & Fabrizio Freda appeared first on lookonline.

Yesterday, I attended “The Rocky Road to Reinventing Retail”, a luncheon and in-depth conversation with Ron Johnson, the CEO of JC Penney. The sold out event, was made possible by Fashion Group International (www.fgi.org ) and The Robin Report, and sponsored by Self Magazine, Cotton Incorporated, Chic TV, Master Card, Goldman Sachs, and Me-Ality.com.

The man of the hour, Ron Johnson, who literally started a retail revolution in his less than one year at the helm (YUP!), would have an opportunity to explain his game changing strategy to the audience, without giving EVERYTHING away of course, followed by a q & a from members of the audience spearheaded by Robin Lewis.

A lunch of cold chicken breast, salad, cheesecake, berries, iced tea, and coffee was served and it’s worth noting that it was was appealing to the eye, tasty, accessible, efficient (we were told he had 20 minutes to eat), and provided good value — much like JC Penney. Laura McEwen, VP and Publisher of Self, then took the podium and made her introduction. She reminded the audience that in our current retail climate, “tastes change at supersonic speed and consumers get bored easily and quickly”.

“Marketers are faced with the daunting challenge of keeping consumers from getting bored” she said, and went on to observe that, “the average attention span of an adult is 8 seconds, that of a gold fish is 9” (this elicited a big laugh).

“It takes a genius to re invent a product and we have a genius in the house: Ron Johnson”.

Next up was Robin Lewis who exclaimed that the “lunch was sold out” and “it was the “most people we have ever had” at this event. He said that Ron Johnson “fundamentally disrupted JC Penney” with his trans-formative vision, and he is creating a “new way to elevate value”. “He is unwavering in his conviction to achieve”.

When Ron Johnson walked on stage, it was hard not to notice how casually dressed he was, clad in a blue pinstriped shirt and navy trousers. The first thing the 53 year said was that he was “informal” (“I dressed for this event” he boasted.”I worked for 12 years at Apple” as if to explain). In true salesman form, he proudly pointed to his shirt and his pants and described them as JC Penney items, even giving their style numbers, prices, and descriptions.

Among the key points he made during the course of the afternoon, as he passionately spoke about the complete reinvention of the chain (which will end up looking like an enclosed mini mall with 100 or so branded specialty shops by the time it’s done in 2015):

“We are here to do something significant, something that matters”. “I have always wanted to things that matter.” And he spoke a little about his stints at Target and Apple. He described the 110 year old JC Penney as “one of the great American companies, which is founded on the Golden Rule. It has core values, a great history, and was the first to have chain stores”.

“You need to keep up and move, but JC Penney fell behind”. When he was offered the challenging job of transforming the chain, he immediately thought “that would be fun to do” and then quickly added “it’s been pretty fun to do so far” acknowledging however the huge responsibility he is faced with. He went on to say:

“We want to take a company that’s been behind in every area, and put it WAY up front. (He emphasized the word WAY)”

“We want to leap ahead of the industry” (he emphasized the word LEAP)

“We are looking forward and we want to grow for the next few decades”.

“We will be the FIRST specialty department store; a collection of shops with a new base for retail”. “Customers love brands they can rely on. We will be a new store that will be a collection of 100 shops”.

“You will be able to walk into JC Penney and have everything you are looking for all under one roof; it will be easy to meander in and out, and you won’t have to keep checking out”.

“The shops are like Apps on an iPhone. “Each store will be pure to its brand” (some of which are Disney, Martha Stewart, Joe Fresh, Michael Graves, Jonathan Adler, Sephora, Levi, etc.)

“What we are creating is a street where people will love to be. Instead of the aisles being 9 feet wide, they will be 15 feet wide. We will fill the street with activities so that people will want to hang around longer” (and he spoke about coffee and yogurt shops, Lego for the kids, tables, iPads, Maps, Internet Access). “We will have a seasonal space built in, a half a mile street, a square, and an entirely new technology platform.”

“We are always listening to our customer. We changed our pricing to deliver value in a fair way.”

“Our goal is to put power in the hands of the customer”. We will revolutionize the way people shop, connecting the customer with the creators and inventing a place where they can connect. And then we will disappear”.

“The price change is so important. The price ticket is the ultimate measure of value.”

“We will get there step by step, store by store.”

“A lot of people thought we were crazy because we were changing the model, but that’s what it needed to get ahead. The world needs change and it needs leaders. We will reinvent retail.”

He promised that JCP will be a ” unique collection of goods, and it will make it fun to shop”. The three most important elements for success, in his opinion: 1 – Show your vision 2 – Speak the truth 3 – Treat people fair and square.

I guess you can say that by the time it was all over, we got a glimpse into how a “Penney” really WAS saved, and everyone would agree that Johnson is literally worth every “Penney”.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post “The Rocky Road to Reinventing Retail” appeared first on lookonline.

FGI ‘Springs’ Into Action

Yesterday, I attended Fashion Group International’s Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear audio visual presentation. Held at the Time Life Building, it is always an extensive overview which looks back at the runways of New York, London, Milan, and Paris, and highlights the most important trends of the season across the board (clothing, accessories, beauty), which are selected by a panel comprised of some of the best respected names in the business, and spearheaded by FGI’s creative director, Marylou Luther. Ms. Luther (of the International Fashion Syndicate), also narrates the audio visual presentation, and does so in her own inimitable way; and boy, does she ever have a way with words. (Case in point, during a segment on peplums, she decreed “the peplum makes the hips hip again”). The entire segment is capped off with what the group considers to be the “Best Bets” of the season (those ‘most likely to make it from the runway to reality’). This time, this list consists of the following:

Color (brights, whites, chalky pastels); Prints (geos, fusion, florals, photo prints); Pleats; Couture Touches; Sport; Ease; Lace; Full Skirts; The Wedge; The Loafer: The Smaller Day Bag; The Bag That Matches The Clothes; Vintage Looking Jewelry; Pearls; Crosses. This was followed by a “salute to the three most imaginative shows of the season” which just happened to be Thom Browne in New York, Chanel and Louis Vuitton in Paris.

The bonus of covering the noon show, is the panel discussion which follows, and since the committee/panel was comprised of Ikram Goldman, Owner, Ikram, Chicago (the famed retailer who has long been a style advisor to Michelle Obama, made a special trip from Chicago to attend the event); Elizabeth Kanfer, Accessories Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue; Jane Larkworthy, Beauty Director, W; Scott Schuman, Journalist/Photographer, The Sartorialist (who many compare to Bill Cunningham with his candid on the street shots of unsuspecting subjects around the world), and the Special Guest Moderator was Isaac Mizrahi, it was sure to be lively and informative. And it was. Isaac wasted no time in engaging the panel in a few areas that were of particular interest to him. He quickly asked what they thought were the most important ‘statements’ on the runways.

Elizabeth Kanfer (EK): “From a Saks point of view, I’d have to say the ladylike trend, the chalky pastels, and the consistency of ready to wear and accessories (one statement).”

Jane Larkworthy (JL): “Ladylike suits; the high heeled pump; white.”

Scott Schuman (SS): “The idea that you have to give the customer a reason to buy. The customer wants something to buy!”

Ikram Goldman (IG): “The couture feeling (it all feels like couture this season) and the androgynous movement (long skinny skirts and skinny pants).”

Isaac Mizrahi (IM): “I hope there is a sense of irony with ladylike.” And then he quipped, “There is so much going on. How does it all speak to you? How do you cut through the trends and choose”?

IG: “It was an easy season because it was a good season. Everything was so beautiful. It has meaning.”

IM: “Scott, how do YOU cut through the noise? What makes it right for the moment?”

SS: “It has to surprise people. I want to be surprised. But not a crazy surprise. It has to be balanced.”

EK: “I don’t want a statement shoe. Each season, we start with a clean slate and we look to be inspired. Shoes have been so big for awhile. I see a return to the IT bag. Bags will be more important.”

JL: “I was inspired by the crazy (colorful) hair at Narciso and Thakoon. It’s always wonderful when you see a great look that you know immediately you will want to write about in your own way.”

IM: “Scott. What is your definition of what is stylish?”

SS: “Something that strikes me. The gracefulness of a person is what I notice. The aura of this person creates a beautiful package. I’m very picky. I’m looking for subtlety, not the craziness.”

IM: “Where is the fashion capital now?”

IG: “Each place has its own character. I love New York (she mentioned names like Prabal Gurung and Rodarte) but I’m most excited about Paris ”

EK: “Paris provides us with the most number of vendors but Milan really surprised us this season” (and she mentioned Prada, Jil Sander, Marni, and Fendi as the best accessory lines).
SS: “I’m really impressed with Stockholm and Moscow ” (in terms of its young designers, shops, and customers).

IM: “Jane. What stood out for you at the recent shows?”

JL: “ Erdem’s powerful matte red lips” and then she mentioned Celine’s “gorgeous hair”. “In New York , it was always so safe but that’s changed. It’s not so staid. Now you have designers like Joseph Altazurra and Rodarte who are getting bolder with their hair and makeup.”

IM: “Who are the new role models and muses influencing fashion?”

SS: “15 minutes is now 3 minutes. It’s too easy to find out too much too soon about many of these people and they lose their mystery”. He specifically referred to Japan Vogue’s Anna Della Russo whom is known to wear designers outfits head to toe (just as they were shown on the runways), and he said he was one of the first to photograph her early on. Not a traditional beauty by any standards, she is certainly hard not to notice and most importantly for him, “She truly loves fashion and sincerely loves clothes” he said. (Fyi, I’m rather obsessed with fashion as well, so I could easily go a big step further and say she is unusually so. It’s a known fact that Ms. Della Russo keeps a separate apartment in Milan just for her clothes, and she has admitted that she got rid of her boyfriend because there was no room for him!)

IM: “Is there anything bad about fashion, that you would change if you could?”

IG: “I miss the fantasy and mystery. It’s all too over exposed. It’s everywhere and it’s not exciting any more.”

SS: “The preoccupation with newness, newness, newness. It’s all about making the consumer feels he/she needs something new”. At this point, Isaac pointed out that this is what retail is all about and then Scott, who is very independent and who hardly minces words said bluntly, “well, maybe that’s what I don’t like about it”.

(Isaac admitted that for him, it is “over styling” both on the runways and off the runways, that irks him the most).

JL: “I’d like to see celebrities dress themselves. It’s NOT that hard. Be who you are. Select what you like, not what a stylist likes (and she talked about the red carpets with all the borrowed gowns and jewels). FYI- this sentiment was met with much approval from the audience)

IG: “Do you want to know who I love? Isabel Toledo” (this also met with approval from the audience). “Whenever I want to look and feel spectacular, I choose her clothes. She has never been over- exposed, and I hope she doesn’t change”.

EK: “I hate the pace of retail. I feel my age. You give up a lot to be in retail. It’s a daily grind.” (I felt like reminding her that considering the high unemployment rate these days, she is lucky to have a good paying, great job in a field she loves but alas, I resisted). “We want to focus on emerging designers. We need to nurture them and we need to educate the customer”(who apparently is still looking for well known labels).

IM: “We all bore so easily which is why we are all so good at our jobs”.

At one point, after the discussion was opened to members of the audience, someone asked who the panel thought might be a good replacement for John Galliano at Dior. Everyone seemed to agree that Marc Jacobs (whose name has been bantered around continually) would be excellent, but Ikram Goldman also mentioned Olivier Theyskens, and Scott Schuman thought Comme des Garcons would be an unusual, unexpected, and quite perfect fit. D’accord!

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Spring/Summer 2012 Trend Report & Panel Discussion appeared first on lookonline.

THE 28TH ANNUAL NIGHT OF STARS
“THE LUMINARIES”
Thursday October 27, at Cipriani, Wall Street.
Contact; Diane Clehane/ Madeline Communications
203.681.2118 DClehane@aol.com

The 28th annual Night of Stars honoring “The Luminaries.” The awards, which will include red carpet arrivals, a cocktail reception and dinner, will be held tonight at Cipriani 55 Wall Street. The black tie gala hosted by Simon Doonan is expected to draw A-listers from the worlds of fashion and entertainment. Additional presenters and celebrity guests will be announced at a later date.

Red carpet arrivals: 6:15 Cocktails: 7:30 Dinner/Awards: 8:00

SUPERSTAR AWARD: Steve Sadove and Ronald Frasch
for Saks Fifth Avenue
Presenter: Oscar de la Renta

STAR HONOREES:
FASHION:
Raf Simons Presenter: Cathy Horyn
Giambattista Valli Presenter: Jessica Biel
Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte Presenter: Edward Enninful

ARCHITECTURE: Arthur Gensler Presenter: Cindy Allen

BEAUTY: Francois Nars Presenter: Isabella Rossellini

CORPORATE LEADERSHIP AWARD: Andrew Rosen Presenter: Sally Singer

HUMANITARIAN AWARD: Lauren Bush Presenter: David Lauren

FASHION PROVOCATEUR: Daphne Guinness Presenter: David LaChapelle

BOARD OF DIRECTORS LEGEND AWARD: Wanda Ferragamo
Presenter: Kate Betts

LORD & TAYLOR FASHION ORACLE AWARD: Amar’e Stoudemire

The lead sponsor for this year’s event is Lord & Taylor Participating sponsors: Arcade Marketing, Givaudan, InStyle & Arizona Beverages

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Is This: A Recovery? Or As Good As It Gets?

On Thursday, FGI hosted a retail symposium at the New York Hilton for cocktails, lunch and a panel discussion on the nation’s economic outlook and its effect on the apparel and retail industries. This is the first in an ongoing series developed by The Robin Report and Fashion Group International, during which industry leaders participated in a panel discussion moderated by Robin Lewis, CEO and Managing Editor, of The Robin Report.

Opening Comments on the economy were by Andrew Tilton, Senior Economist Goldman Sachs and results of a special consumer survey conducted by John Long, Partner and Retail Strategist, Kurt Salmon Associates. A panel discussion followed, lead by Robin Lewis with the participation of industry leaders: Neil Cole, CEO, Iconix Brand Group Inc; Joseph Gromek, CEO, Warnaco Group Inc.; and Alexis Maybank, CMO & Founder, Gilt Groupe.

Here are highlights from the panel discussion:

The overriding objective of the discussion was framed with the question, “What will it take to win the consumer’s dollar, today, tomorrow and into the future?”

Opening comments from economist Andrew R. Tilton, not only set the stage for today’s trying economic times, but also compared this recession and its rate of recovery to prior recessions that occurred over the last 10 to 15 years. Current activity indicates average GDP growth of 0-2½% while in prior recessions; GDP averaged 2½ – 3½%. Recovery has yet to sustain above-trend growth. Tilton believes that there are three reasons for the slow down of this recovery.

Tilton contends that this recovery is slower due to high commodity prices for oil and gas which are most important to the U.S. consumer. In every economic recovery is different than past cycles as the share of other. Every other recovery less household disposable income was spent on oil and gas during the recovery. At the same time, the dollars pumped into the economy by the government’s stimulus in 2009, led to neutral growth in 2010. At present, the government has made cuts of between 11 to 12% in stimulus. This is coupled with the surplus of housing in the country, built during the housing boom. Prices which were down by as much as 30%, seem to be stabilizing. To be fully recovered, the excess housing has to work through the recovery

Cyclical sectors, such as housing and auto sales, are well below long term norms, however, housing is still well below demographic trend in housing starts and demand for homes. At present, ½ million homes are being constructed each year, but population is growing by one million per year. Over time, there needs to be a substantial increase in housing to keep up with future demand. At the same time, auto sales are still at historical lows, but production is up.

Tilton sees signs of encouragement at the consumer level with households’ indebtedness dropping sharply, less onerous, putting households on a path to a good place financially. Tilton’s forecast is for continued low GDP growth in 2012, predicting 2-2 1/2% next year. Unemployment stays high, with need more geographic. Tilton also contends that inflation is not a problem. The main risk to the U.S. economy remains Europe. He does not see a repeat of 2008, as there is an availability of credit.

John Long, Partner and Retail Strategist, at Kurt Salmon Associates, focused on the two sides of the consumer perspective, the high income household versus the low income consumer and their anticipated spending patterns for holiday and beyond.

Kurt Salmon polled over 8,000 consumers and found that they would spend slightly more on back to school, especially on electronics and back packs. These numbers return to pre-recession back to school spending. In the past, back to school spending has been predictive of holiday sales. Despite better than expected b-t-s sales, all income levels, including $150,000 and up have said they will spend less for holiday. However, while consumers are telling pollsters one thing – that they will spend less – they are, in actuality, spending more.

Despite the steep drop in consumer confidence, Long finds that consumers still use retail as an escape, and as therapy.

Kurt Salmon polled over 100 retail executives regarding future sales and 60% expect holiday sales to increase, with continued growth over the next five years due to online sales, viewing their on-line channel of distribution, as the one with most growth. At the same time single businesses plan to remodel stores, enhance online presentation and build new stores.

What to expect in 2012?

Retailers are focused on their core customers, how they will spend, what they can do to get customers to spend more and how to enhance the shopping experience, both online and in-store. At the same time, retail managers are aggressively managing costs, rewarding teams at being for efficiency.

Where are retailers and manufacturers planning for growth over the next 5 years?

Retailers are focusing on expanding to emerging marketplaces China, Brazil and the Middle East. They are innovating, looking for new retail concepts, targeting new customers via social media and focusing on mobile commerce. One in ten on-line retail sales comes from a mobile device. If you’re not equipped to handle mobile retail sales, you can’t make it in the future retail environment.

The Panel Discussion

Joe Gromck, CEO Warnaco: Warnaco is a two and a half billion dollar company. Sixty percent of their sales are outside of the U. S. They see growth potential in expanding their own retail stores, currently 100 million dollars from just 2 stores. Calvin Klein is important segment of their business.

Warnaco CEO, Joe Gromek:  Believes that this new low of GDP is the new norm. The first half of the year was strong, so far the second half less so. Housing, dysfunctional government, and high energy prices are squeezing low end value consumers. Middle income shopper is trading down and the high end customer looks at the stock market dropping along with their wealth. These are the failures compounding the current situation. He sees growth for Warnaco in Europe, which is currently under served, Asia and South America.

The Gilt Groupe CM0 and founder, Alexis Maybank: Their customer is in their 20’30s, wants greater value, quality. They value fashion, spending not as determined by lack of disposable income. Due to recession, Maybank finds that they are keeping product longer, trading with friends. Consumer wants product to stand for something – civic responsibility of customer. Customer is directly affected by recession and difficulty with job search coming out of college.

Neil Cole: Iconix Their business is casual attire, licensing brands. Sell all retail segments, broken out by sector.“Three years ago, I formed my perspective suppliers.”Sees long, slow recovery. Higher commodity prices, bumps in the road. Economy now a world economy. The hiccup is Europe and its financial woes. “The consumer has been remarkable in the last 2 years.” He sees consumer as incredibly resilient. Most are suffering due to gas and housing. Iconix gives great brands to both wholesalers and retailers. They have great partners in acquiring great brands.

What advice to Fashion Group and industry at large? How to grow through this economy?

Joe Gromek: Focus on brands, and incredible product. “Creating the want”. It’s not just about price.

Alexis Maybank: The Gilt Group has had growth even in the recession. Less overhead in their business, need fewer people to sell the product. They can pass that savings along to their customer. More flexibility with product. Fast pace of sales, items can sell out within an hour. Constantly introducing freshness at a fast rate. Can service customer faster. Respond to trends faster and greater flexibility in their margins.

Neil Cole: First 15 years in business, I tried to do it all – sell, merchandise, etc. Had to find new way. How to improve your business? What are you good at? How do your distinguish yourself and your company

Q White space, expanding next, inflationary pricing on retail. Is that a factor affecting the consumer?

Neil Cole: Doesn’t think so. Have exciting product. Give consumer great stuff. The rise in cotton and gas prices is bump in the road.

Joe Gromek: For commodities, consumer shop price to death for example, Calvin Klein 3 pack underwear, for Calvin Klein fashion product the consumer may have to pay ten percent more. Be true to who you are as a brand. Price will be less of an issue.

Q. E commerce?

Alexis Maybank: Pricing trends for The Gilt Groupe are tied to retail. The key difference, they can move through inventory in 36 hours or even one hour. Product is priced as “insider pricing” More inventory available for fall as retailers bought more. Model is real time from inventory standpoint.

Joe Gromek: Retailers are controlling inventory.

Q There is new business like Groupon and other new big deals. Is this pricing index aggregate? Is this not leading to a deflationary effect?

Neil Cole: If the customer has $100 to spend, he may buy one shirt, not four. Customer is affected by gas prices, etc. but looks to value when purchasing.

Joe Gromek: Look at it geographically. The U.S. Europe, Latin America the Far East – price inventory by geographic area. They are more aggressive in pricing in developing areas.

Alexis Maybank: The Gilt Group is not a liquidation platform. They are offering exclusive, limited, exciting merchandise in a unique shopping environment. They are an easy place for customers to shop, they offer information, “how to”, with a purchase. They provide “editorial” information on what the product stands for, which drives customer to buy every day.

Q Pricing affecting multi-brand department stores. Customer can look on line to find the product cheaper. How to remedy that?

Joe Gromek: Warnaco does suggested retail pricing.

Neil Cole: Iconix’s business model – exclusive branding for retailers. 80% of their product unique. They offer exciting brands, good value. There’s less competition in their business model (licensed product). There’s demand for their brands, which are more than half their business.

Q Social media an issue?

Alexis Maybank: Social media is an opportunity, not an issue. The website is the new flagship. It is responsive to both negative and positive feedback. When using social media, the firm needs to respond immediately. Social media humanizes brands. You are connecting with consumer. Newest is Mobile commerce. It allows product and service at any time of day on his or her turf. You go to customer at all levels at all time periods. Product has to be available whenever the customer wants it. One in 10 shopping transactions online is through a mobile device.

Joe Gromek: In the past Calvin Klein spent between $60 – $70 million on marketing, most of which was print. They are making a significant move to social media.  Warnaco is using social median in Hong Kong train stations.”

Neil Cole: Iconix checks in with over 1,000 consumers and interacts with them before they go to market with product, for a two or three week period, through their marketing companies. Sees bloggers as the new critics, gaining favor with consumer is important.

Q How do you overlap with retailers like Kohl’s and their interaction with consumers?

Neil Cole: Iconix supplies celebrities for product. Celebrities tweet about product and selling. There are celebrity cults.

Q You hear a lot about localization?

Alexis Maybank: The Gilt Group gives business calls to members regarding restaurants, stores, connecting them with partners,through localization.

Joe Gromek: Macy’s is doing a very good job with localizing merchandise, 10 to 15% of product. Kohl’s segments by attribute, geography or climate.

Q How does it affect Calvin Klein?

Joe Gromek: Each retailer wants different merchandise. We create a brand for them. While Chaps isn’t totally exclusive to Kohl’s, it’s an example.

Neil Cole: Taking brands around the world, changes product a bit, for example in the London Fog raincoats made for China, there are more pockets than in the same U. S. product, as the Chinese like more pockets.

Audience Questions

Q What are the three most important things to open a business?

Joe Gromek:  Brand, product, make it innovative, like Apple.

Neil Cole:  Exciting product.

Alexis Maybank: Inspire the consumer with fresh, new and changing product.

Q Which of their product will sell for holiday?

Joe Gromek: Calvin Klein

Alexis Maybank: Heritage product

Q What product will lead for holiday selling?

Electronics, yet apparel will be strong.

Q What are you spending on marketing for 2012?

Neil Cole: More efficient marketing

Joe Gromek: More growth – double digit

Alexis Maybank : Social media, for more insight. Beautifully shown product and presentation. Availability – 75% of inventory sells in first 90 minutes. Show customer the intrinsic quality of product.

Q Is this the end of fast fashion?

Alexis Maybank: It’s here to stay, but with a change in meaning. Shorter lead time to customer reaction to purchase. Now 2 week lead time. Gilt Groupe can react to trends and prices. They can find capsule collection at the Gilt Groupe.

Q What about the consumer experience with traditional retailers?

Joe Gromek: It’s incredibly important. They demand great product, service. In Hong Kong, CK Jeans is #1 in China.

Alexis Maybank: Not an issue of need but want. When she started the company with co-founder, Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, they invested in photography and elevated how the product would be shown. It’s all shot on models. They show models with appropriate makeup and hair and accessories, inspiring the customer. You want the customer to see themselves in your product.

Neil Cole: If you don’t do it right, there are 10 other companies who want your spot.

Q Will Amazon surpass brick and mortar store selling?

A There was a yes and a maybe answer.

– Tricia Kenney

Tricia Kenney is an independent fashion editor, writer and marketer whose work has appeared in national consumer and trade publications. For ten years she was a creative director at Creative Marketing Plus, where she won two Communicator Awards. She has been a fashion editor at Glamour Magazine and a Fashion Director at Macy’s. A native New Yorker, Kenney is a frequent commentator on fashion, lifestyle and culture.

The post Fashion Group International Retail Symposium appeared first on lookonline.

“Reinventing the Beauty Business One Great Idea At A Time”

The BobCar Mobile Beauty Boutique

Transformational beauty was the focus of a luncheon held by The Fashion Group International at the New York Hilton Hotel last week.  The presentation and panel discussion addressed the rapidly changing needs of the modern beauty consumer.  Gone are the days when women allowed themselves to be told what to buy at the cosmetics counter.  Today’s woman is more knowledgeable about her choice of products and much more aware of herself.  Case in point, royal bride, Kate Middleton reportedly elected to do her own makeup for her wedding to Prince William. 

Among the topics discussed: the ‘Post-Recession’ consumer, the future of brick & mortar retail in the face of a virtual onslaught and the importance of keeping the consumer interested by creating the newest and most exciting products that produce real results.

“Beauty is like your cell phone, it is now expected to do so much more than before” –  Caroline Pieper-Vogt

The discussion was moderated by Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group. A market review entitled “The New Beauty Curator” was presented by SELF Laura McEwen, VP & Publisher and Elaine D’Farley, Beauty Director. Other speakers included Maureen Case, President Specialty Brands, Bobbi Brown, Kathleen McNeill, President, Beauty.com, Marc Speichert, Chief Marketing Officer, L’Oreal USA Caroline Pieper-Vogt, CEO, Fusion Brands.

Laura McEwen &Elaine D’Farley of SELF Magazine with Coty Prestige’s Carlos Timiraos

During the reception, the BobCar Mobile Beauty Boutique, an eco-friendly vehicle hosted by a brand ambassador, was on view to allow attendees to experience an interactive product demonstration showcase.

-Rhonda Erb

The post FGI Presents “Transformational Beauty” Event appeared first on lookonline.

This past Friday may have actually read Friday, the 22nd on the calendar, but for one organization, it was indeed Friday the 13th (and in this case, I mean, lucky 13th). Fashion Group International held its 13th annual Rising Star Luncheon this past Friday, and it was one of the chicest, most festive, celebratory, and highly efficient in memory.

Each year it seems this annual event (a reception, luncheon, and awards ceremony which honors eight “outstanding individuals for their innovation, creativity, and accomplishments”), has become more and more prestigious, more high profile, and highly anticipated, and indeed, it’s become so popular, it was sold out this time around.

In addition, there were a few things that were new, and as it turns out, they were also ‘improved’ (from my point of view anyway). It has traditionally been held on a Thursday, but was moved to Friday, and this year, the venue of choice was the beautiful and very grand Cipriani 42nd Street. Let’s face it: it’s hard to find a space with more elegant ambience or such a central, convenient location. And of course, the food is always wonderful, with a menu that boasted sea bass, asparagus, and lemon meringue pie with mixed berries (ah, spring is in the air!)

FGI President Margaret Hayes made her welcoming remarks noting that the importance of this program is to “support Fashion Group’s mission to promote rising star talent”. She added, “I want to acknowledge the talent, skill, commitment, and fortitude that brought you (the nominees) to this amazing journey”.

The keynote speaker was Nina Garcia, fashion editor extraordinaire, and fashion director of Marie Claire, who is perhaps best known as one of the judges on ‘Project Runway’. Though she was fighting a cold, and seemed to be on the verge of losing her voice, she got through her rousing speech brilliantly, as she addressed the nominees, giving them a laundry list of pointers, tips, and good sound advice to keep in mind on their road to success.

Here is some of what she said:“

“I am pleased to be celebrating the incredible talent in the room today”.
“The future of fashion is in this room”.
“Today’s fashion icons were once rule breakers”.
“You have to know at the outset who you are and what you are.”
“Be yourself. Be your boldest, out- of- the- box self”.
“The ones most self assured, most focused, are the ones who make it. This is not a time to play it safe. Play it smart”.
“Challenge us, inspire us, surprise us. Get in our faces.”
“Never underestimate the power of fashion. It is a reflection of our culture and our times. Be daring. Be bold. Make fashion history.”

This is a list of the award presenters, nominees, and the winners in each of the 8 categories:

Accessories:
Award Presenter: CINDY WEBER-CLEARY
Katherine Fleming – Katherine Fleming LLC
Robin Frances Stern – It’s About Time
Shai Levy – Seventy Eight Percent
Adriana Castro – Adriana Castro
Cornelia Petronis – Mark
Amanda Brotman – Amanda Pearl, LLC

Winner: Amanda Pearl Brotman, Amanda Pearl, LLC.

Beauty/Fragrance Corporate
Award Presenter: JANE LARKWORTHY
Jaclyn Rebecca Davis – MAC Cosmetics
Jerome Roux – Coty Prestige
Irina Burlakova – Givaudan Fragrances Corp.
Juliette Karagueuzoglou – IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances)

Winner: Juliette Karagueuzoglou, IFF

Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur:
Award Presenter: FREDERIC FEKKAI
Lisa Hoffman – Lisa Hoffman Beauty
Danny Seo – Wholearth Beauty and Bath
Janet League- Katzin – Sphatika International, LLC
Matthew Malin & Andrew Goetz – MALIN + GOETZ
Frederick Bouchardy – Joya LLC

Winner: Janet League-Katzin-Sphatika International, LLC.

Home/Interior Design:
Award Presenter: CLODAGH
Dror Benshetrit – Dror
Luke Vahle – Fifth Season Design
Joey Roth – Joey Roth
Shawn Henderson – Shawn Henderson

Winner: Dror Benshetrit-Dror

Fine Jewelry:
Award Presenter: AMEDEO SCOGNAMIGLIO & ROBERTO FARAONE MENNELLA
Monica Rich Kosann – Monica Rich Kosann
Nina Basharova – Nina Basharova Jewelry Design
Visnja Brdar – Visnja Jewels
Kelly Amorim – Carla Amorim Jewelry

Winner: Monica Rich Kosann-Monica Rich Kosann

Men’s Apparel:
Award Presenter: ROBERT BRYAN
Anthony Keegan & Richard Christiansen – Commonwealth Utilities
Paul Marlow – Loden Dager
Loris Diran – Loris Diran
Stefan Dahlkvist, Simen Staalnacke & Peder Borresen –
Moods of Norway International

Winner: Anthony Keegan & Richard Christiansen-Commonwealth Utilities

Retail:
Award Presenter: BETH BUCCINI
John Bartlett – John Bartlett
Edward Chai & Paul Birardi – ODIN New York
Helena Greene – Swing Concept Shop
Barbara Moore – B. Moore Design, Inc.
Alexandra Galgano – Charm and Chain

Winner: Edward Chai & Paul Birardi- Odin, New York

Women’s RTW:
Award Presenters: FRANCISCO COSTA, LINDA FARGO
Joseph Altuzarra – Altuzarra
Bibhu Mohapatra – Bibhu Mohapatra
Carly Cushnie & Michelle Ochs – Cushnie et Ochs
Matthew Ames – Matthew Ames
Michael Angel – Michael Angel
Nima Taherzadeh – NIMA
Peter Hidalgo – Peter Hidalgo
Prabal Gurung – Prabal Gurung
Brigitte Schwenner – Sievering LLC

Winners (It was a tie): Joseph Altuzarra-Altuzarra; Peter Hidalgo- Peter Hidalgo

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post Friday the 13th appeared first on lookonline.

Fashion Group International held its spring summer 2010 ready-to-wear collections trend overview this past Friday, November 13th. For those who attended, like me, the date proved to be anything but ‘unlucky’. The event was not only informative, but unabashedly consumer oriented, and consumer friendly, and indeed, the consumer seemed to be on everyone’s minds (understandably so; since he/she holds the purse strings, right?)

First off, FGI President Margaret Hayes made her brief welcoming comments, adding her upbeat observation, “The good news is the economic recovery.” Then, as usual, Marylou Luther, FGI’s Creative Director, did a fantastic and exhaustive editing job; putting it all together and narrating the wonderful audio visual slide report, which details the most important trends for the upcoming season, as seen on the recent runways; the best of the best in every category (ready-to-wear, accessories, and beauty). She did it as only she can, with humor, wit, puns aplenty, and even whittled the trends down to “140 characters or less”: Squeeze/ease; Thighs /knees; Goth/froth; Drape/shape; Reality/romance; Transparent/apparent; Undies outed/utility touted.

But perhaps the most relevant ‘trend’ right now, according to Ms. Luther, is the way in which the clothes are “communicated”, and the fact that designers are becoming “more connected with consumers: some directly, some indirectly via in store videos.”

Exemplifying this ‘direct’ route, was Alexander McQueen, who stated that this season, he wanted to give consumers an “unfiltered view of what goes on at a fashion show” (which is usually reserved for members of the press, retailers, and celebrities). And thanks to Internet technology (for spring 2010 he collaborated with Nick Knight of SHOWstudio.com), this became a reality, as “29,000 hits in one second crashed the online show briefly”.

The emphasis on engaging and attracting the customer, continued with the lively panel discussion which followed the noon time presentation. Comprised of committee members who are among the most highly regarded professionals in their fields, it’s a balanced mix of retailers and members of the press and this time they were:

LINDA FARGO, SVP, Bergdorf Goodman
IKRAM GOLDMAN, IKRAM Chicago
JANE LARKWORTHY, Beauty Editor, W
LINCOLN MOORE, V.P. & DMM Handbags/Accessories, Saks Fifth Avenue
CANDY PRATTS PRICE, Executive Fashion Director, Style.com

The guest moderator was Donna Karan, who was introduced by Ms. Luther, referring to her as “fashion’s favorite agent of change”. ML also pointed out that the award winning multi tasker, who has received countless accolades and honors, has the distinct honor of being the first American designer to have been given the Fashion Group International’s Super Star Award during the organization’s annual Night of Stars back in 2003.

Unsurprisingly, the outspoken designer wasted no time in getting to, what for her, is the most important and pressing issue facing the fashion business; in two words: The Consumer. As she put it, “Fashion changes so quickly, but where is the customer in this?” “As a designer, it’s all about inspiration, but the consumer is the end result. How do we communicate to the consumer”? And so, the groundwork was set for the panel discussion which followed.

When Ms. Karan asked Linda Fargo, “How would you like to be the conduit for change”?
Ms. Fargo answered: “I’ll commit to join Donna in her campaign for ‘Buy now, wear now’. That’s what needs to be re-evaluated. Selling clothes closer to when she’s going to wear it”.

Donna was thrilled, saying it was “the best birthday present anyone can receive”, and “it’s not even my birthday!” (Donna, among others, has long been outspoken in her belief that the consumer is ‘confused’ thanks in large part to all the information out there, in addition to all the seasons being ‘thrown’ at her at one time. She also believes strongly that the clothes on the selling floor, should be in tune with the season. In the same way it’s healthy to eat ‘fresh’ food in season, it is healthy and a good idea to buy clothes ‘in season’.)

DK then spoke with Jane Larkworthy about the idea of beauty, (which she admitted is an ambiguous notion for her). “Is it inner beauty or outer beauty we’re talking about?” she asked. And as for the runway beauty trends, how are they relevant for the consumer?

JL said she was pleased to see “so many gorgeous looks”. “There was a lot of thought and effort put into the beauty looks this season”. But Donna quipped: “Where is the ‘us’ in all of this?” “How do we talk to the customer who’s not a beauty or a model?” JL replied that she sees the runway beauty trends as being a point of inspiration for the ‘average’ woman out there. She may not be able to or want to follow the trends literally, but she can be ‘inspired’ in some way.

Then Donna asked Lincoln Moore: “Lincoln. How would you like us as an industry to be getting together? What is your wish list for the holidays?”
LM: “We need to retrain our staff and talk to the customer about the value of the product, not just the brand. Developing a personal relationship with consumer is the key thing. It’s about more intimate affairs. The relationship between the customer and the designer. Having a vendor relationship is imperative.”

When it came time to ‘interview’ Ikram Goldman, (the revered Chicago retailer who is all but single handedly responsible for collaborating with and dressing the First Lady) Donna could not contain her adoration.
DK: “You’re probably one of THE most influential people in fashion. Thank you! I applaud you for taking a huge challenge and working with Michelle Obama. What is it like to be that retailer?”
IG: “Success is based on the service we give. The sales and special sales (offered elsewhere) are hard on small stores like ours. I try to ignore what happens with other stores. I encourage our employees to love and sell what they believe. It’s important to educate the sales staff to educate the consumer. They have to make the consumer understand that it’s okay to spend a lot of money now, on quality items that will last forever. It’s not buy now, wear now, but buy now, where forever.”

Last up was Candy Pratts Price, who Donna has known for years, dating back to the time she worked her visual wonders at Bloomingdales.
DK: “Candy has love and a passion for fashion (Let’s face it. We wouldn’t be here if we weren’t all obsessive, compulsive.”) Then, she asked her: “How do we instill desire and get the customer to shop?”
CPP: “We have to pay attention to the customer. We need to entertain the customer, as Marvin Traub did.”

At this point, other retailers on the panel chimed in about how to best ‘entertain’ or engage the customer. Ikram Goldman admitted that she tries to give her sales staff “surprises.” “I ask designers to make special pieces for me.” (The notion of ‘surprise’ would surface again as you will see)

As for all the information available to everyone out there, (thanks to the internet), Donna asked: “Is too much information to much information? Is it too much too soon?”
CPP: “I don’t think it’s a negative. A learned customer is a good customer” (This immediately brought to mind the advertising slogan for Syms, “An educated consumer is our best customer.”)
DK: “The Internet is our communication tool right now. But for me, it’s a double edged sword”. But then she re-phrased it, saying “It’s not the information but the timing of the information (that’s problematic)”.

At this point, Donna brought up the endless seasons, the hype that goes along with the large fashion shows, and the markdowns. She admitted, “Resort, without all the hype, is one our most successful sell through seasons”, whereas “the buy on spring is so small.”

This prompted Linda Fargo to immediately exclaim: “Donna, we LOVE all our pre-collections!”

Without skipping a beat, Donna answered: “What if ‘pre’, without all the hype, hullaballoo, and all the markdowns, WAS the collections?”

At the end, Donna asked the audience if they had any questions or comments. InStyle’s Hal Rubenstein was one of several who wanted to make his feelings known. “The most important way to ‘seduce’ the customer and get her (or him) excited about shopping, is to offer an “element of surprise”. “You have to keep surprising the customer. Take your passion and your intelligence, and seduce the customer.”

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post FGI’s ‘Consumer’ Report appeared first on lookonline.

Fashion Group International presented its 12th Annual Rising Star Awards yesterday, sponsored by Bebe and InStyle, at the Rainbow Room (with those breathtaking views). In her welcoming address, Margaret Hayes, President, The Fashion Group International, stated that Eight Rising Stars (eight “outstanding individuals”), are “recognized for their innovation, creativity, and accomplishments”. The 90 – 100 nominees are selected by approximately 100 people (FGI members) who vote, using a “numbered scale” and the winners are chosen by their “numerical score”. Ms. Hayes pointed out that the vote “represents a microcosm of the consuming public” and as such, is a good barometer of “future success”. She also added, “You are all to be commended” for this is a “unique, distinctly difficult economic climate.”

Speaking of which, it was noted that young Jason Wu, (who has practically attained ‘rock star’ status ever since his white gown was selected by the First Lady as the gown of choice for the Inaugural Balls), and winner of the Rising Star Award for Women’s Apparel last year, was in attendance, giving interviews, answering questions, lending his support and further validating the importance of the Awards (not that they needed validating of course).

The keynote address was delivered by Tory Burch, who won this award in 2005. She launched her eponymous company in 2004 (it all started with a $6 vintage caftan she found in a flea market) and it quickly became a widely successful lifestyle brand. Built around the idea of affordable Classic American Sportswear mixed with Tory’s own very apparent eclectic aesthetic, it has reached cult status, amassing a huge and loyal following along the way. As Ms. Burch admitted, “When I won this Award 4 years ago, it was one of the break through moments of our business” but she also warned the nominees that today’s climate represents a “bigger challenge than ever for those opening up their own businesses”. She even admitted that early on, she kept asking herself, “Does the world really need another fashion company?” But as she quickly found out, apparently it did.

Her list of the most important qualities that must be present in order for one to be successful:

“You need confidence and a strong point of view”
“You must have a complete vision, a strong sense of what the product will look like from the packaging to the furnishings (every detail must be precise and perfect)”
“It’s all about the product; you must focus on the product (“in this climate, that will be even more and more important”)
“I always try to think if I will wear a product. If I’m on the shelf about something, it’s edited out.” (It doesn’t hurt that Tory is a great looking gal with tons of personal style, an avowed fashion a ‘holic’, she looks amazing in her clothes and she is a walking embodiment of her collection)
“I always listen carefully to my customers – the women who wear my clothes”
“Most importantly the best advice I got from my parents: “keep it all in perspective. Put your family first and then everything else will fall into place.”

The winners in the eight award categories are as follows:

Accessories Presenter: ANN WATSON
Natalia Barbieri & Jennifer Portman – Bionda Castana
Eileen Shields – Eileen Shields, Inc.
Stephanie Owen – Elizabeth Cole Jewelry
Claudia, Laura, Alejandra Laviada – Pantera
Satu & Celeste Greenberg – Tuleste Market, LLC
Winner: Claudia, Laura, Alejandra Laviada- Pantera

Beauty/Fragrance Corporate Presenter: AMY SYNOTT
Marypierre Julien – Givaudan Fragrances
Juliette Karagueuzoglou – International Flavors & Fragrances
Katie Lucas – Avon Products, Inc.
Julie Birns – Prescriptives, Estée Lauder Companies
Winner: Julie Birns- Prescriptives, Estee Lauder Companies

Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur Presenter: JANE LAUDER
Cathy Gins – Aromawear LLC
Jessica Dunne – Ellie D Parfume
Tom Wilscam – Hommage
Janet League – Katzin – Sphatika International, LLC
Gerd Schwarzkopf – PHCP, Incorporated, Professional Hair Care Products/Mensgroom
Winner: Cathy Gins- Aromawear LLC

Home/Interior Design Presenter: CHRIS MADDEN
Claudia Kalis – CK Designs
Jaimie Chew – J. Chew Porcelain
Wayne Ludlum – Vestalife
Winner: Wayne Ludlum- Vestalife

Fine Jewelry Presenter: PAUL MORELLI
Ariane Zurcher – Ariane Zurcher Jewelry
Danielle & Jodie Snyder – Dannijo
Darcy Miro – Darcy Miro Metals Shop
Ivanka Trump – Ivanka Trump
Stephanie Albertson – Stephanie Albertson Jewelry LLC
Winner: Ariane Zurcher- Ariane Zurcher Jewelry

Men’s Apparel Presenter: ALEX BADIA
Carlos Campos – Carlos Campos
Anthony Keegan – Commonwealth Utilities
Michael Leen, Matteo Gottardi and Hamid Johannes Mahmood – Operations
Prince Williams 3rd – Prince Williams Designs

Winners (it was a tie): Carlos Campos- Carlos Campos, Anthony Keegan- Commonwealth Utilities

Retail Presenter: BARBARA HULANICKI
Alexis Maybank – Gilt Group
Hicham Benmira & Brian Cousins – Hollander & Lexer
Alexandra Adame & Nikki Fontanella – The Dressing Room Boutique & Bar
Winner: Alexandra Adame & Nikki Fontanella- The Dressing Room Boutique & Bar

Women’s RTW Presenter: PHILLIP LIM
Annebet Duvall & Stephanie Doucette – Doucette Duvall
Gustavo Cadile – Gustavo Cadile
Ina Soltani – Ina Soltani
Christian Cota – Christian Cota, Inc.
Sue Stemp – Sue Stemp
Michalyn Andrews – Trasteverine
Yoon Chang & Je-Won Hwang – Whiste & Flute
Winner: Christian Cota- Christian Cota, Inc.

-Marilyn Kirschner

The post On the ‘Rise’ appeared first on lookonline.

Just when you thought the economic outlook could not get any worse, the Dow Jones plummeted, the unemployment rate surged to an all time high rate of 5.5 percent, and the price of oil rose to a record breaking $140 a barrel. To say this is a difficult time for businesses of all kinds (particularly fashion retail), is an understatement.

And so it couldn’t have more perfect timing for “Retail’s Moment of Redefinition” (in the consumer century), last week’s Fashion Group International event which gave new meaning to the phrase, “retail therapy”. The mission of this reception, luncheon, and presentation, was to explore why merchandising for a mass consumer audience no longer works, forecast business for the remainder of the decade, to examine the ever changing shopping habits of the consumer, the effects of globalization on the market place, and the way in which the current recession is impacting on retail.

The highlight of the event was a panel discussion moderated by Joyce Greenberg, Managing Director, Financo, INC, with panelists Rick Darling, President, LI & Fung, Chris Lee, Senior Vice President, Forever 21 (which Ms. Greenberg hailed as the “king of U.S. fashion with huge global aspirations”), and Diane Hamilton, President & COO, Brooks Brothers (“THE iconic brand” according to Ms. Greenberg).

To kick things off, Robin Lewis, Vice President, Head of Retail Vertical, Vantage Marketplace LLC, delivered his “Economic Overview”. While it was dubbed ominously, “The Perfect Storm” (he explained that currently, there are three weather fronts colliding for that ‘perfect storm’: 1- Sub prime mortgage meltdown, 2-Decelerating GDP Growth, 3-Decelerating income), he was intent on injecting some lightheartedness into the sobering proceedings, seemed intent on seeing that fictional glass ‘half full’ and repeatedly sought to find some “good news” within the bad.. For example, when he was first introduced, he joked that “the good news is that I’m not an accountant” and when he quoted Alan Greenspan, who reported that there’s a “better than 50% chance” we are headed for a recession, Mr. Lewis noted that “we might avoid a technical recession”. And even if we don’t, the “good news” is that we will “finally get rid of some of the excess and reach a balance between supply and demand”.

But perhaps the key point he made is that “the consumer is in charge” and he outlined some behavioral shifts the retailer should understand (these were displayed in large letters on a monitor behind him, summarzied as ‘From’ and ‘To’). The way he sees it, the shift is ‘from’ needing stuff ‘to’ demanding experiences, ‘from’ conformity ‘to’ customization, ‘from’ plutocracy ‘to’ democracy, ‘from’ new ‘to’ new and now”. That’s where the idea of ‘fast fashion’ comes in. As he observed, “It’s a Zaro world and a Forever 21 world. It’s an Internet world, and it’s a world of new products and new services 24/7”.

He then listed 6 key points for an “Emerging New Business Mode” (1- Traditional retail is evolving to a hybrid specialty chain model, 2- There are ‘mini’ formats for many neighborhoods (the internet, catalogue, and other direct channels of opportunity), 3-Traditional wholesalers are integrating forward, 4- Niche branding by specialty chain brands, 5- Accelerated brand proliferation and new lifestyle cycles (continuous rapid innovation and differentiation), 6- Going global. And then he announced a “new business paradigm” which is exemplified by the fact that the “the consumer has the power of access and control and the supplier has need for access and control” .

This was a perfect segue into the panel discussion that followed. Rick Darling enumerated on four major trends which are making a difference: 1- “globalization of sourcing, 2- the economies of the world are very much in sync, 3- international retailers are entering markets they had once been afraid to enter; 4- it’s all about differentiation (exclusive brands for retailers). Chris Lee proudly described Forever 21, founded in 1984, as a “fast food department store”, somewhat akin to a “candy store” with “Wal-Mart prices”. They made 1.3 billion last year and their goal is to “get the best merchandise as quickly as possible” and as such, they compete with H&M and Target. When asked asked by a member of the audience if there is a ‘target’ age group, he wisely answered that “the 21st century is about lifstyle, it’s not about age.” Indeed it is. My most favorite recent purchase was acquired through www.forever21.com. They are a pair of wonderfully distinctive black and white spectator ‘Ollie’ oxford pumps which are comfortable enough to really walk in since they sport a chunky 1 1/2 inch heel, never fail to illicit compliments, and cost a mere $20. Now, that’s what I call ‘retail therapy’, recession or not.

As part of their expansion plans, they are building malls in South Korea and getting more into menswear (this will give the guys who shop with their girlfriends, wives, etc., something to buy.

Expansion plans also figure prominently in Brooks Brother’s future. According to Diane Hamilton, it’s all about “the history of a true American icon” (the company was founded in 1818 and they are celebrating their 190th anniversary). She admits the biggest challenge she is faced with is how to “redefine an iconic brand” which is known for offering a “high quality product at good value for our customers”. Ms. Hamilton admitted that attempts to change it’s identity in the 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s were unsuccessful. She said the new Black Fleece Collection by Thome Browne, (a “better luxury brand”) is doing well, and so are the brand’s 100 regular price retail stores in the U.S. (though outlet business “continues to be strong”). In the final analysis, it’s customer relationships that are “major” .Happily, their customer has “given them the go ahead to expand brands” (so expect to see men’s and women’s fragrances, among other things, in the future).

A New York Times Gaffe…

By the way, speaking of troubling ‘times’ (and in this case I mean that literally)…perhaps one can blame it on disorientation caused by the horrible state of the economy, the suffering heat wave, or the distraction of two climbers who (within two hours) ‘scaled’ the heights of The New York Times building on Friday….but still, none of the above can explain or condone the glaring typo that I found in the Evening Hours section of ‘Sunday Styles’. In the -column showing pictures from last Monday’s CFDA Awards, one guest, Mara Hutton was described as wearing a “vintage Jeffrey Beene”. We all make mistakes for sure…but how someone at the NYT did not catch this is unbelievable. I showed this to a friend who is not even involved in the fashion business, and she caught the mistake immediately. I’m sure there were a lot of red faces on Sunday morning — and not from the heat of the day.

– Marilyn Kirschner

The post Troubling ‘Times’ appeared first on lookonline.