Marc Jacobs, photo by Hunter Abrams
Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2026 collection, held at the Park Avenue Armory on February 9th, kicked off New York Fashion Week by reflecting on 1990s minimalism and grunge, specifically referencing his own 1992 Perry Ellis collection. The show featured low-rise plaid skirts, greige knitwear, shrunken button-downs, and slim, sculptural tailoring, blending nostalgia with a modern, “jolie laide” (pretty-ugly) aesthetic.
Yseult dressed in Marc Jacobs, photo by Spotlight Lauchmetrics for The Impression
Titled “Memory. Loss.” the collection brought back a refined 90’s aesthetic and was a mature, restrained meditation on the past. It was an intimate, reflective, and nostalgic yet forward-looking approach to fashion, marking a distinct shift towards more understated, curated designs. It marked a major departure from Marc’s overly experimental, cartoonish designs, which were seen on a number of high-profile show attendees.
Over the years, Marc has been inspired by many iconic designers, and he gives credit where it is due. The “credits and receipts” section of his show notes generously cites references to Yves Saint Laurent, X-Girl, ’90s Prada, and Jacobs himself (both at his namesake label and in the grungy Perry Ellis years).
Marc Jacobs Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, photo by Lexie Moreland for WWD
Interestingly, the one name I did not see was Chanel, although I saw plenty of allusions to the iconic designer whose vision was to empower the modern active woman with a uniform that offered freedom and effortless style, famously staging, “Luxury must be comfortable.”
Marc Jacobs Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, photo by Hunter Abrams
Chanel revolutionized 20th-century fashion by designing simple, comfortable, and functional sweaters and skirts. She championed nubby, plain-textured fabrics like boucle and tweed. And of course, there were the collarless tweed skirt suits, often lined in silk satin and paired with silk satin tops. With its minimalist, elegant, and comfortable design ethos, and relaxed, pared-down simplicity, Jacobs’ collection touched on all these themes, but of course, he made them his own.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, photo Courtesy of Marc Jacobs
Marc’s idea of a modern uniform is a charcoal-gray V-neck sweater and a narrow, mid-calf skirt made of nubby, speckled black wool. Instead of a little black dress, Marc proposes a not-so-little, elongated, slim black dress and an ivory one, both made of satin. His cap toe pump has a pointy toe, playfully turned up, just so.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Hunter Abrams
Coco Chanel loved pockets and considered them a crucial, functional element for women’s fashion. She famously added functional, patch pockets to her jersey pieces in the 1910s, promoting a more relaxed, casual look. The idea of a pocket, or something “pocket-like,” as a place to rest one’s hands, is a recurring theme at Marc Jacobs, reinforcing the sense of effortless style.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Hunter Abrams
When Jacobs uses ornamentation, he does so with restraint. Unlike Ralph Lauren, who presented his collectionon Tuesday evening. There were some beautiful pieces, and it looked luxurious, but I often found the collection a bit heavy-handed and contrived, not especially modern.
Marc Jacobs dressed in Chanel, photo by @charDefrancesco
As far back as 2005, Jacobs described leading Chanel as the “coup de grâce” and a job he would be “thrilled” to take. He has been noted for incorporating classic, high-fashion elements into his personal style, including wearing vintage, boxy Chanel tweed jackets.
Jacobs has expressed interest in becoming Chanel’s creative director (often described as his “dream job”) following Virginie Viard’s departure. In a late 2024 interview with WSJ Magazine, Jacobs stated, “There’s only one job I want, and I haven’t been asked to do it”.
Marc Jacobs and Sofia Coppola, photo by Francesc Planes
Unlike most designers who keep such negotiations private, Jacobs openly admitted to wanting the job, which was considered the most coveted role in fashion. Jacobs revealed he had enlisted his friend, director, and Chanel collaborator Sofia Coppola, to put in a good word for him.
Despite his interest, Chanel ultimately appointed Matthieu Blazy as their new artistic director in December 2024. The way fashion is going these days, with creative director hirings and firings, the only thing set in stone is that nothing is.
Marc Jacobs with Alex Consani backstage at his 2026 Ready-to-Wear show, Photo by Lexie Moreland for WWD
Who knows how long Blazy will last? Marc is assuredly waiting in the wings. And he has proved that he is up for the task.
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