Veronica Leoni Photo by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
Veronica Leoni’s debut for the relaunch of the Calvin Klein Collection (Fall 2025) marked a return to the runway for the high-end Calvin Klein line, aiming for a future-focused, non-nostalgic approach, even while referencing the past.
It received mixed reviews, balancing praise for its modern interpretation of the brand’s archives with criticism for lacking the signature, overt sensuality. While some hailed her “Monumental Minimalism” as an astute, sophisticated, and wearable revival, others felt it was too buttoned-up, incoherent, or amateurish, lacking the necessary sex appeal.
Supporters appreciated Leoni’s ability to blend 1990s nostalgia with a “nerdy sexy” aesthetic, showcasing strong tailoring, oversized trenches, and nods to the brand’s heritage, such as CK One-inspired accessories. It was seen as a promising, commercial, and grown-up take on minimalism.
“It’s been a while since I’ve watched a creative with so much experience under her belt fumble the ball to this extreme. Make no mistake, the Calvin job is a tough one.” -Martin Lerma, Creative Director and Author, No Sale Substack
“There’s no way the mixed (and that’s being kind) response to Leoni’s first show didn’t cause internal turmoil. The company president who hired Leoni left- or was likely pushed out- in May, and I anticipate more personnel changes to come. And the first person who should be up for dismissal is Leoni.” – Martin Lerma, Creative Director and Author, No Sale Substack.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2026 and Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com
Detractors found the collection, especially in the second show, to be at times poorly constructed (student-level), with stiff, uninspired, confusing, disjointed designs. Critics like Cathy Horyn noted a lack of “languor” and overt sexiness that have historically been associated with the brand.
Before Friday’s show, the success of Leone’s tenure was still being debated, with some questioning whether the at times polarizing and “incoherent” pieces could truly revive the brand’s once-iconic status.
Calvin Klein Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com
Almost every day, we read about a creative director being hired or fired. I can practically guarantee that Veronica Leoni will be the next departure you hear about, and it won’t be of her own volition. There is absolutely, positively no way Leoni can keep her job after the disastrous Fall 2026 Calvin Klein Collection, presented on Friday at noon.
Fall and winter are such great seasons for fashion. There is so much for designers to sink their teeth into in terms of texture, fabrication, and layering. How is it possible that someone can screw it up so badly? It actually makes me mad.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com
I was hoping Veronica Leoni would redeem herself this season, but she hit a new low, if that’s possible. There was something off about almost every single piece. There were no diapers, but the clothes were ill-fitting, with shoulders that were too broad.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Spotlight Launchmetrics for The Impression
Collars are ridiculously oversized. Proportions are way off. Colors and patterns are sad, lackluster. It looks frumpy. Sleeveless suits anyone? The finale looked like someone haphazardly removed a curtain from a window. The scratchy, annoying soundtrack didn’t help.
Calvin Klein has a rich history and is so much more deserving than this. They need a designer who can honor the house’s legacy while advancing it. Calvin fundamentally redefined American fashion through a combination of minimalism, calculated scandal, and groundbreaking lifestyle-based advertising, beginning with its founding in 1968.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
The brand, launched by Calvin Klein and Barry K. Schwartz, transformed basic items—like denim and underwear—into high-fashion, status symbols, creating a lasting, cultural legacy. Moreover, its heritage is also deeply rooted in its New York City beginnings in the city’s garment center.
Martin Lerma, known on Substack as @nosale, is a NYC-based Creative Director, Editor, and Image Researcher. He curates content focused on fashion history, archival photography, and industry commentary, having previously worked with brands like The Row, Vogue Italia, and Ralph Lauren.
Calvin Klein fall 2026 Collection, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com
Following Leoni’s second show for Calvin Klein, spring 2025, in September, he titled his Substack article, “VERONICA LEONI IS UNDERSERVING OF THE CALVIN KLEIN LEGACY.” I couldn’t say it any better.
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FROM: American fashion designer Ralph Rucci: A major home run! How extraordinary this young lady is, and along with her…
This is all very sad considering what Klein and Schwartz built and what Costa did to advance the history of the House. Costa should be called back. Yesterday.
A collection of Random Disasters that disgraces what was Calvin Klein !