Steven Klein, signing his book, photo by Laurel Marcus
I braved the Staley-Wise Gallery opening night “steam bath” on Thursday night to see the new, uber-popular (judging by the sheer number of people crammed into the space) exhibition “Helmut Newton X Steven Klein on the Dark Side”.
Helmut Newton, Paloma Picasso, Steven Klein, Bondage Warriors
The two photographers were selected in tandem and juxtaposed as they each represent the erotic, the fetishistic, the humorous, and the glamorous side of fashion photography – Newton in the 1970s and 1980s and Klein in the 1990s and beyond. Klein (originally a painter) mixed and mingled with the guests and well-wishers while also signing copies of his new book, which came out in December 2025, “Steven Klein/VOGUE.”
Helmut Newton, TV Murder in a hotel on the Croisette, Cannes, France 1975
Newton, whose family left Berlin for Australia to escape the Nazis in 1938, eventually ended up in Paris, notably shooting countless images for the French and American editions of VOGUE. Klein, born in Rhode Island, also ended up in Paris shooting for VOGUE and Vanity Fair.
Nancy Chilton, PJ Chandra, Tonne Goodman, photo by Laurel Marcus
Provocative, dangerous, thrilling, and quirky images lined the gallery (on view through May 2), while attendees of all ages, as well as the usual young model types (particularly male), packed in like sardines. Fashion industry stalwarts, including Nancy Chilton, VOGUE editor Tonne Goodman, and PC Chandra, were huddled together near the entrance.
The crowd, photo by Laurel Marcus
Interestingly, the last exhibition I attended here was for Pamela Hanson – I caught a quick glimpse of her and her husband making their rounds through the gallery, without being acknowledged as far as I saw by the night’s honoree, before exiting abruptly.
Steven Klein, The Last Femme on Earth
“He’s a really nice guy,” said an older gentleman named Joel, who had spoken with Klein — a fellow RISD graduate focusing more on architecture, “but he did better than I did,” he added. “You had less plastic surgery than he did,” I answered, riffing on the fact that a woman told me she barely recognized 60-year-old Klein “with all the work he had done.”
I couldn’t help hearing two young men conversing as they passed by. “Is Helmut Newton going to be here?” one asked. Not unless we hold a séance (he died in 2004), but I’m sure he was there in spirit.
Steven Klein, Suburbia #11, 2007
According to Klein, “nothing is really shocking anymore, but some things are now taboo.” I thought of the hate he got recently when he posted an AI version of a video for Dolce & Gabbana during fashion week (it was termed “AI slop”) of a youthful Madonna on her knees, scrubbing the floor while throngs of people almost trample her, and her face changes eerily.
Klein has a 20-year history of collaborating with the Material Girl and other celebrities, including Brad Pitt, particularly during his “Fight Club” era. Besides the photos, a few videos run on repeat at the gallery – Klein has mentioned that he would like to break into film next, in a natural progression of his visual art and creativity.
As I stepped out for a minute to catch my breath from the extreme heat, people were congregating in the hallway while a model and Bradley Cooper’s baby mama posed for a photographer, half in and half out of a giant faux fur coat.
Klein’s young son appeared towards the end of the evening with an “ok daddy it’s time to go home” expression.
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