An American Original: L.L. Bean

L.L. Bean 1924 Field Coat, $229, llbean.com

L.L. Bean has had a lasting impact on American fashion, particularly in the realm of classic, functional apparel. In honor of their long, understated influence, they were honored with two special Coty American Fashion Critics’ Awards, a prestigious recognition in the fashion industry, first in 1976 and again in 1981. The awards, known for celebrating innovation and excellence, recognized L.L.Bean for its menswear and overall influence in American fashion, particularly for iconic products like the Bean Boot.

Left: L.L. Bean Original Duck Boots, $149, llbean.com Right: Thom Browne Duck Boots, $1290, thombrowne.com.

L.L. Bean’s iconic Duck boots, which were initially created in the early 1900s for mud-tromping hunters, are still made by hand in Freeport, Maine (instead of some questionable factory abroad). And like the fabled Hermès Birkin bag (which is known for both its quality and wait list), the boots’ construction process is rigorous, compared with similar soles being made; each pair takes about an hour and eight people to make, Forbes reports.

“At around $50, the L.L. Bean Boat and Tote costs approximately one prep-school education less than a Birkin; you don’t have to be much of a bean-counter (sorry, and we regret nothing) to appreciate its value. What’s that old saying about the rich staying rich by shopping like they’re broke?” – Gerald Ortiz, GQ Magazine

Ralph Lauren Cotton Utility Jacket, $598. ralphlauren.com

For years, high-end brands like Ralph Lauren have drawn inspiration from L.L. Bean’s functional designs, referencing vintage American clothing as a cornerstone of their own lines. This influence underscores the brand’s enduring impact on the fashion industry, a legacy that L.L. Bean enthusiasts can take pride in.

Left: Thom Browne lobster printed cashmere sweater, $1008, Right: L.L.Bean Lobster towel, $39.95

There is no direct evidence that Thom Browne is inspired explicitly by L.L. Bean. However, both brands draw from classic American preppy style and East Coast aesthetics, and Browne’s designs subvert and deconstruct this traditional image.

In 1980, The Official Preppy Handbook declared L.L. Bean “nothing less than Prep mecca,” cementing its place in the preppy fashion subculture and contributing to a 42% sales increase that year.

Alex Carleton on the right, with a model wearing one of his designs

In 2009, L.L. Bean hired Alex Carleton, a menswear designer and founder of the brand Rogues Gallery, to launch a sub-brand called “L.L. Bean Signature”. While this was a more fashion-forward effort, it was an in-house revitalization rather than a full-scale designer collaboration.

Todd Snyder Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by John Taggart for The New York Times

In 2020, for the first time in its 108-year history, L.L. Bean appeared on a runway as a core element of Todd Snyder’s fall men’s wear show. Snyder, honored as one of the best American menswear designers in recent years, is known for his natural ability to elevate classic designs into tailored, accessible, and high-quality garments, making the collaboration a natural fit for both brands. Backstage after the fall 2020 ready-to-wear show, Snyder spoke fondly of his youth in Iowa, spent hunting and camping in L.L. Bean apparel.

Prada Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com

After Prada’s spring 2024 show, the fashion world declared the Barn Jacket as the “It” jacket for both spring and fall 2024. The LL Bean 1924 Field Coat, the predecessor to today’s Barn Coat, was first designed and introduced as the Maine Duck Hunting Coat. L.L.Bean created the coat from a necessity for durable outerwear to withstand the rugged conditions of the Maine woods for hunting. While the coat was not L.L.’s first foray into outerwear, its rugged, timeless design would make it one of his most iconic.

Nili Lotan Kedem Leather-trimmed suede barn jacket, $3728, mytheresa.com

L.L. Bean did not invent the barn jacket (Carhartt and OshKosh produced theirs in 1917), but Bean’s version (inspired by the Field Coat, which was introduced in 1924) is a highly successful and influential design that became a timeless icon for outdoor wear. We continue to see luxurious interpretations from high-end designers, including The Row and Nili Lotan, who incorporate its utilitarian aesthetic into their own styles.

“I’m a major fan of L.L. Bean since way, way back (summer in Maine as a child). I recently rediscovered my favorite LLBean Field Coat in my closet and now it’s traveled with me from London to Paris to NYC to Spain to Scotland to LA this month.” – Elizabeth Saltzman, Fashion Consultant & Celebrity Stylist.

Elizabeth Saltzman wearing her LL Bean 1924 Field Jacket, Instagram

This item of clothing was even given a seal of approval by Elizabeth Saltzman, a highly esteemed fashion insider. Saltzman, a former Vogue fashion editor, is a London-based stylist and fashion consultant who works with Hollywood’s biggest stars. Saltzman’s signature style, often seen on the red carpet, is classic elegance with an unexpected twist.

Last October, Saltzman posted a picture of herself looking incredibly chic and understated, wearing her beloved L.L. Bean 1924 Field Coat in black, saying that everyone keeps asking her about it, so she wanted to share.

L.L.Beans-Boat and Tote Bags $27.95-89.95 – Photographed at GQ’s studios by Bowen Fernie

Fast forward to 2025. The “Boatkin”, which blends the shape of the iconic Hermès Birkin bag with the classic L.L. Bean Boat and Tote, was dubbed the “viral bag of the summer” and, at $50, is the “only bag you need”.

L.L. Bean has received its share of accolades and awards, but it’s been 44 years since it was recognized by the fashion industry. Given the premium put on authenticity and originality, they are deserving of another honor in 2025.

  1. Our comments section is back online again! We would love to hear from you.

Marilyn Kirschner

I am a long time fashion editor with 40+ years of experience. As senior market of Harper's Bazaar for 21 years I met and worked with every major fashion designer in the world and covered all of the collections in Paris, London, Milan and New York. I was responsible for overall content, finding and pulling in the best clothes out there, and for formulating ideas and stories.

No Comments Yet

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.