Barbara Bui, Photograph by Gilles-Marie Zimmermann
A recent Instagram post resonated with me. It spoke about how Jackie Kennedy created the modern capsule wardrobe. Jackie wore the same things on rotation and repeated them over and over again.
She didn’t need 50 versions. Jackie made it look like power, not limitation. When you wear the right things often enough, they become an extension of your identity. It’s not about being boring; it’s about being intentional.
“I’m not looking for radical changes and extreme transformations. We are a brand rooted in reality. Our wardrobes evolve according to the times, our feelings, and changing lifestyles” – Barbara Bui
Barbara Bui, khaki mercerized satin patch pocket shirt, $640, and cargo trousers, $575. Photo by @yvesmourtada
My style has always leaned towards a uniform approach to dressing, steering clear of fleeting trends and instead seeking out the perfect pieces. Barbara Bui, the visionary behind her eponymous French luxury ready-to-wear brand established in 1987, has dedicated nearly four decades to perfecting an effortlessly cool capsule wardrobe, a testament to her unwavering commitment to quality and timelessness.
Barbara Bui, suit jacket in washed denim with tobacco stitching, $1220, barbarabui.com
Barbara Bui’s brand is celebrated for its distinctive fusion of masculine and feminine styles, often incorporating sharp tailoring, rebellious rock elements, and a touch of Parisian elegance. The theme of androgyny is a central and intriguing aspect of her designs.
Barbara Bui, camel leather high-collar jacket, $ 3,000. Photo by @arnaud_tudoret, barbarabui.com.
It’s all about “highlighting the best in everyone without making a gender distinction,” says Bui, who describes her woman as strong, confident, and elegant, with an unapologetically defiant spirit. Leather is Barbara’s fabric of choice.
Although Barbara established her line in the 1980s, it has an unmistakable 1970s vibe. Bui thought the clothes in the 80s were too trendy and too cheap. “A good piece of clothing is all about the cut and quality. You can afford all kinds of fantasy provided you meet these two requirements”.
Barbara Bui, fitted blue velvet jacket and bootleg trousers, barbarabui.com
Bui’s terrific velvet pantsuits (jackets are $1,450, trousers are $740) rival those created by Tom Ford for Gucci in the 1990s. Of course, Barbara was there first. I also see vestiges of Haider Ackermann in the impeccably tailored jackets. Prices, which start at $180 for a ribbed jersey tee shirt and go up to $3605 for a black plonge leather trench coat, reflect the high quality and workmanship.
Barbara Bui, gold metallic jersey draped tee shirt, $485, Photo by @yvesmourtada
Bui draws inspiration from various sources, including rockabilly styles, as well as pop culture icons who represent a certain freedom in music and attitude. A muse from the rebellious punk and rock scenes of the 1970s, including iconic figures like Mick Jagger from the Rolling Stones and, notably, his wife Bianca, left an indelible mark on the designer through her “mad and natural elegance.”
French singer and writer Loane Coste wearing Barbara Bui, Photo by Gilles-Marie Zimmermann
Portraits of individuals who inspire Barbara and embody the brand’s aesthetic are featured in ongoing projects, such as #BBUIWOMEN and the PORTFOLIO series, photographed by Gilles-Marie Zimmermann. These projects aim to celebrate the diversity and strength of women, a core value of the Barbara Bui brand.
Barbara studied literature but found she could best express herself through fashion design. The self-taught Vietnamese-French designer began her career by opening a small shop and workshop in Les Halles in 1983, initially selling her designs as well as those of other young designers.
Barbara revisits denim in a trompe l’oeil print, Photo by @yvesmourtada
Barbara’s journey to success began with a collection showcased during Paris Fashion Week in 1987, which garnered praise from international buyers and the press. The following year, she boldly opened her first exclusive Barbara Bui boutique on the rue Étienne Marcel, a pioneering move at a time when young designers rarely did so. This rich history and strong identity are what make Barbara Bui a part of the fashion legacy.
Success was swift. Barbara’s deft design alchemy, which seamlessly blended feminine elegance with a rebellious rock ‘n’ roll edge, instantly struck a chord on the contemporary Paris fashion scene and beyond.
In 2003, Bui was unanimously elected to the Fédération Française de la Couture, the governing body of the French fashion industry. Debuting in 2013, she garnered more accolades, including the Globe de Cristal for Best Fashion Designer, awarded by the French Arts & Culture Press Association in February.
Barbara Bui, Autumn Winter 2025, Photo by @yvesmourtada
Barbara has showcased her collections in New York and Milan, but now Bui primarily displays her collections at her flagship store, located at 50 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. The last few collections, including the most recent for autumn-winter 2025, were revealed in a film.
The season, dubbed “Another Look,” highlights timeless Bui signatures: the perfect leather Perfectos, leather pants, velvet pantsuits, and oversized jackets, played out in black. Among Bui’s recent collaborations is a unique two-year partnership with the Paris Saint-Germain Football Club, commonly known as Paris Saint-Germain or PSG, one of the most successful and widely supported clubs in France.
Barbara’s designs for the most successful women’s football team in Paris, Bui x Paris Saint-Germaine
Fashion partners in women’s football are few and far between. The capsule includes a sleek black suit with subtle leather detailing on the jacket. For a more casual look, Les Parisiennes will be decked out in a white, biker-style coat, matching trousers, and a PSG tee.
To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Bui and Maison Aurélie Bidermann collaborated with Ekkaï, presenting a collection inspired by the serpent, the ultimate symbol of transformation, strength, and allure.
Barbara Bui gold metallic maxi dress, $1070, Photo by @yvesmourtada
Interacting with her customers and contributing to people’s lives through her designs is Barbara’s greatest pride. “Fashion is anything but superficial,” observes Bui, who regularly visits the flagship store on Avenue Montaigne.
Bui has two other boutiques in Paris, and her designs are sold on international websites, including Farfetch.com and her own, barbarabui.com.
“People have this narrow view of fashion. They see the show-off aspect of fashion, which makes it look very superficial, but in reality, it is much more than that.” Touche!
