Calvin Klein Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Calvin Klein
In the 1990s, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and Ralph Lauren, collectively known as The Big Three, helped shape the essence of NYFW. Their influence, building on Claire McCardell’s ideas, created a distinct American style of casual sportswear separates, allowing wearers to craft their own looks.
Donna Karan New York Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Donna Karan
Of course, Donna Karan is back on the schedule with Donna Karan New York, but it’s a far more commercial and watered-down version of Donna Karan Collection.
“I think the thinning out of the vision (of Ralph Lauren) over the past few seasons, the lack of surprise, is a mistake that will become even more evident as Paris and Milan brands put on a real show this month and in October.” – Cathy Horyn
Ralph Lauren Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Luca Zanoni for Gorunway.com
Ralph is riding high after several strong back-to-back collections and his recent nomination for the 2025 CFDA Women’s Wear Designer of the Year award.
Unfortunately, all of this makes Ralph’s spring collection all the more disappointing.
There were some nice pieces, but overall, it was a bit bland and lacked Ralph’s unmistakable stamp. If the designer’s name wasn’t attached, it would have been difficult to identify it as a Ralph Lauren creation.
I agree with Cathy Horyn, who said that the Ralph Lauren Collection lacks surprise, and Ralph’s vision is diluted. It looked a bit stale and old-fashioned. Unfortunately, I also agree with Horyn that the excitement is in Europe, and New York is just the waiting room for the main event!
Celine Spring 2026
I think Ralph could have really benefited from some of the magic created by Michael Rider, the former creative director for Polo Ralph Lauren, who is now the creative director of Celine. Rider’s innovative designs, fabulous styling, and terrific accessories could have injected some much-needed excitement into Ralph’s collection. I remember feeling very excited when I watched Rider’s debut for Celine back in July.
Calvin Klein Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
In February 2025, Calvin Klein returned to the shows after a six-year absence. Veronica Leoni’s debut as creative director of Calvin Klein was the hottest ticket in town.
Calvin Klein Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
The consensus at the time is that the debut was a good start, highlighting Leoni’s ability to balance the brand’s heritage with a fresh perspective, particularly through refined tailoring, architectural outerwear, and subtle reinterpretations of classic Calvin Klein minimalism.
I wasn’t blown away, but critics generally praised the thoughtful, modern silhouettes, the luxurious fabrics, and the strategic inclusion of both archival and new designs. However, some, like Horyn, noted a missed opportunity for more overt “sexiness” and sensual languor.
Leoni is known for her unique design philosophy, ‘maximal minimalism’, which focuses on creating bold and impactful looks with minimal elements, as well as her expertise in tailoring. It was thought that Leoni brought a reverent yet modern perspective to Calvin Klein’s heritage. The designs showcased a deep understanding of the brand’s DNA while avoiding becoming a relic of the past.
Norma Kamali Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
This season, Veronica missed the mark. Making it all the worse is that, by all rights, NYFW should emphasize the best of American sportswear. Veterans like Michael Kors and Norma Kamali, who prove they are still at the top of their game, continue to lean into their strengths and stay relevant.
Calvin Klein Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Calvin Klein
Veronica’s Calvin Klein Collection is uneven, not particularly compelling, and somewhat disjointed. Leoni didn’t commit to a message. I’m not sure I know what she stands for. It’s as though she can’t make up her mind. Worse, the fit was off, there was no art, and nothing of interest or to seduce sales.
Calvin Klein Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Calvin Klein
Indeed, there were a few sleek and modern dresses, as well as some decent suits. Caroline Bessette-Kennedy, who once worked for Calvin, was an obvious point of reference, if not a muse, for Leone this season (see the headscarves). Still, even CBK could not save this collection, and I doubt CBK would wear many of the unflattering, overly voluminous designs. And what’s with the diapers?
Left: Area Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.comp Right: Calvin Klein Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Calvin Klein
Meanwhile, I see bits and pieces of Raf Simons in this collection and others, specifically, Area, now designed by Nicholas Aburn.
I can’t help but think about Raf Simons, who received critical acclaim for being “sharp and relevant” but failed to drive the expected sales, leading to his departure from Calvin Klein in 2018 after disagreements with the parent company, PVH, over the brand’s strategic direction.
Calvin Klein Collection is not inexpensive. The luxury sector is struggling, and intense competition exists at every level. Leonie is not providing a compelling reason for us to go out and spend money. “Meh” is good enough.
