Jean Shafiroff, photo by Laurel Marcus

While favored France would go on to suffer a crushing upset to Spain in the World Cup, the mood was festive at Jean Shafiroff’s annual Bastille Day luncheon at Maison Barnes inside Café Boulud.

Waiting for lunch, photo by Laurel Marcus

Francophile Jean, who is on the board of the French Heritage Society among her many philanthropic causes, has been marking this day for well over a decade with her celebratory event commemorating the French Revolution. While it has remained approximately the same size over the years (no, it’s not 1000 people), word of mouth has made it quite a coveted invite. “People call me around this time and beg to be included,” our Oscar de la Renta floral dress and Kokin fascinator-clad hostess remarked.

Hat designer Kokin & Jean Shafiroff, photo by Laurel Marcus

Each year on or near July 14th, Jean assembles her “nearest and dearest,” summoning many of them from the far reaches of that mythical summer place with hedges and beaches called The Hamptons, back to the steamy, odiferous pavements full of dog poop of our beloved midtown Manhattan. Attendees span the worlds she occupies: fashion, philanthropy, society, pop culture, art, politics, and even royalty.

Valerie Steele on the left, photo by Laurel Marcus

Attendees included designers Kobi Halperin, Kokin, Nicole Miller, Malan Breton, Victor dE Souza and Vanessa Noel, while other fashion notables were FIT’s Valerie Steele, FGI’s Maryanne Grisz and NYT Style section reporter Ruth LaFerla. Jean attempted to give a shout-out to everyone during her unscripted welcoming speech, a thankless job if ever there was one, as you are bound to leave someone out.

“The boys,” David Hochberg, Malan Breton, and photo by Laurel Marcus

Not to mention that she was distracted by the constant ringing of her phone — a call from her apartment building, which hopefully was not on fire. Representing the art world was Hunt Slonem in an eye-catching arty green jacket; for royalty there was Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia, whom I take pity on—it must be hard to be a prince from a country that exists no more.

Lunching, photo by Laurel Marcus

It has become an unwritten dress code that guests show up in some form of red, white and blue, although Jean herself remarked that she didn’t want people to feel obliged to do so. “Nobody wears red, white and blue on Bastille Day,” she said, perhaps referencing the actual French.

Over a delicious meal of Salade de Burrata, dourade with spring vegetables and a chocolate lava cake, the place buzzed with people catching up on their summer plans. There is more time to talk these days, as almost no one is eating thanks to the magic of Ozempic/Mounjaro. I was privy to anecdotal evidence at my table that Mounjaro is preferable as it doesn’t give you “Ozempic face” – that gaunt, scary look or “turkey neck.” No word, however, on whether “Mounjaro butt” is a thing.

Joan Jedell of Hampton Sheet & Marilyn Kirschner, photo by Laurel Marcus

At my table, I learned that Malan Breton has something exciting and top-secret in the pipeline for September’s fashion week, which explains his jet lag from back-to-back trips to Rome—so stay tuned. Hampton Sheet publisher Joan Jedell peppered UES Assemblywoman Rebecca Seawright over how the Democrats need to separate themselves from the Communists taking over our city.

BTW, guess who the cover girl for Hampton Sheet’s brand-new issue is? None other than lovely Jean who really does personify the out East vibe in a summery yellow gown.

Jean with FGI’s Maryanne Grisz on the right, photo by Laurel Marcus

Speaking of fashion, it’s not a Jean Shafiroff party without at least three outfit changes (five is the standard at a home soiree)! Jean was happy to announce that her three Oscar floral frocks from upcoming and past seasons were donned as a tribute to outgoing designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who are vacating their posts at the storied label after their fall collection to focus on their own design label Monse.

Just as the two-hour luncheon was winding down, a few stragglers came in, including “My Unorthodox Life” star Julia Haart in a tiny white dress to match her tiny white body. Summer is truly in full swing.

This upcoming weekend promises to be jam-packed in Bridgehampton with the French Heritage Soiree on Friday (Cece Black, Sylvia Hemingway and Exec Dir Jennifer Herlein were present here) as well as Saturday’s late afternoon Hampton’s Summer Series Event for Kobi Halperin given by FGI and hosted by Sidney Sadick (also both present at the luncheon).

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Maria Nicanor & curators, photo by Laurel Marcus

How many curators does it take to assemble a far-reaching, six-year-in-the-making, long-term exhibit at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum? Apparently, it takes a village.

I attended a press preview on Thursday morning for “Design Across Time: Exploring the Smithsonian’s Design Collection,” which opened Friday, 6/26. Within the first-floor space of the museum’s Carnegie Mansion, you will find items from the storage vaults of the permanent collection, along with some new acquisitions, all of which went through an extensive editing process.

Various objects of design, photo by Laurel Marcus

Out of more than 215,000 items, these 125 made the cut for now, and items will be rotated over the next two years. The objects span multiple design disciplines, including product and graphic design, fashion, textiles, digital design, wallcoverings, and architecture.

Three AS Four dress, photo by Laurel Marcus

Objects are loosely categorized into six themes: Repeat, Transform, Simplify, Show Off, Play, and Tweak. “The exhibition is rooted in this idea that design is everywhere, that it is not neutral and that it serves a civic purpose,” said Maria Nicanor, director of the museum. “Through its narrative, the show also reveals that from small objects to larger systems, everyone is an expert user and an active participant in the built environment.”

Damien Hirst butterflies, photo by Laurel Marcus

She referred to the vast and varied collection from 30 centuries and six continents, which is mind-blowing. The juxtaposition of what’s current and perhaps familiar with what’s ancient and more exotic is part of the gestalt.

I mostly focused on the textile and fashion items throughout. In the Repeat category, the repetitious nature of pattern design, including block, screen, and roller printing, was emphasized. A Damien Hirst textile of butterflies, giving a Kaleidoscopic effect, evoked the 2013 Alexander McQueen scarf collaboration.

Kinematrics dress, photo by Laurel Marcus

The Kinematics Dress (2015) uses 3D-printed nylon, with each component identical in shape but varying in size, allowing for a customized fit. There is also a Style Stiletto Textile (2011) from the Netherlands, reminiscent of Andy Warhol’s designs.

Necklace of hammered nails, photo by Laurel Marcus

The Transform section featured a “feather” necklace, actually made from hammered steel nails with touches of gold, silver, and mother-of-pearl (1983), and a Vitamin Store necklace made from pill capsules, ca 1990. There is also a 1966 striped Paper Dress from Mars Manufacturing Company

Showoff category, photo by Laurel Marcus

In the Show-Off section are some beautiful examples of handwork, including a Man’s lace collar (Italy) 1650-75 (the second oldest item in the exhibition) as well as a more contemporary piece, the Temple Dress from ThreeASFOUR (2013) of laser-cut bonded silk organza. A Very Large Nazuna Vase, 2016, of molded, carved, and hand-built porcelain echoes the intricate lace-like theme.

The Noh theater costume (Japan ca. 1800) of silk metallic brocade is also featured here, as well as an Artist’s Book, Hands of Josephus V., 2010, a hand-cut and bound-altered book with beaded cords on a wire hand form. The Coricancha necklace (1995) is made of Rhodochrosite, amethyst, nacre, pearls, and gilded silver.

Artist’s Book, Hands of Josephus V., 2010, photo by Laurel Marcus

The Simplify section – where things are stripped down to their essence — did not feature any real fashion moments but did include a Malcolm X film poster (1992), chairs without legs as in Stacking Side Chair (1972), Switzerland, and the Flex-Foot prosthetic running foot blade (2013), Iceland, reminding me of that horrible sprinter and convicted murderer Oscar Pistorius.

Issey Miyake Pleats Please chair made from waste fabric, photo by Laurel Marcus

The Tweak section displayed items that had undergone small, iterative changes of modeling, prototyping, but no fashion per se, while the Play section (the designer wants the end user to play) had perhaps one of my favorite items: the Cabbage Chair, 2008 nendo (Tokyo, Japan) – made of resin-coated wastepaper used in the production of PLEATS PLEASE, Issey Miyake garments. The chair arrives in a wrapped bundle and will supposedly form to the user’s posterior with use.

Back to the beginning — as a small group of us waited in front of the podium for the press preview talk to begin (many key figures were apparently caught in traffic), suddenly there was movement afoot. A large group of those who had been milling around the entrance took to the stairs behind the podium, and I, in my early-morning stupor, followed suit.

I quickly realized that these were the curators lined up and that I had just followed what seemed like the herd. As I resumed my intended spot in front of the podium, I heard one of the speakers remark, “Well, I do say this exhibit is for everyone,” to audience laughter. Cringe moment alert!

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Photo by Laurel Marcus

Peace, love, Woodstock, and The New York Botanical Garden! Thursday night was the annual Conservatory Ball, with this year’s theme of “Flower Power,” celebrating the current exhibition (now through October 18) and bringing out the inner hippie in us all.

Left, Christopher Griffin aka Plant Qween, photo by Laurel Marcus

Flowers are the enduring symbolism of peace and love – remember the Flower Children (if you’re old enough) who protested war and violence, choosing to embrace florals in the ‘60s? NYBG carried out the theme with mod decorated buses in the garden by Snoeman, interesting macramé art pieces which can be creatively added to by guests, crafted by Carmen Paulino, wood, steel, resin, and LED light ginormous flowers inside the conservatory by Amie Jacobsen, and an incredible painted canopy on the Conservatory lawn by Mushuman, just to name a few of the artists on view.

James Aguiar in custom suit, photo by Laurel Marcus

This has been the week of schlepping to Brooklyn (Wednesday night was their botanical garden fete), and tonight the Bronx (ugh, the agony of Thursday night traffic) in black tie no less, but the weather cooperated spectacularly, and the mood was festive. Men in particular seemed to have gotten the memo, donning floral dinner jackets or suits, including James Aguiar, who wore a custom-designed get-up that can only be described as a cross between Moschino and Thom Browne.

Victor dE Souza and Jean Shafiroff, photo by Laurel Marcus

Jean Shafiroff (Jean Austen, haha) went against type – no strapless floral ball gown tonight – perhaps inspired by “Wuthering Heights”/”Pride and Prejudice” in custom couture Victor dE Souza, complete with dozens of underskirts to keep it buoyant. Victor kept up the vibe in a corseted tuxedo jacket, high-neck ruffled shirt, and trouser-style denim.

Stella Jacob, Sharon Jacob, Cecilia Jacob, photo by Laurel Marcus

Chair Sharon Jacob, along with her daughters, Vice Chairs Cecilia Jacob and Stella Jacob, took to sequins, beads, and florals, as did Sarah Easley, who added a floor-length feathered cape acquired during her travels abroad. Another memorable chair was Holly Lowen in a beautiful robin ’s-egg blue pleated dress with big sleeves, and Cat O’Neil in a black-and-white sequin-flowered Carolina Herrera. Other Guests included Candace Bushnell, Cynthia Rowley, Dasha Polanco, Jason Rembert, Kindred Lubeck, Priya Shukla, Tunde Oyeneyin, among others.

Laurel Marcus & Marilyn Kirschner, photo by Victor dE Souza

An anniversary of sorts was remembered by Bill Cunningham muse Marilyn Kirschner in a beautiful rainbow-striped Issey Miyake caftan, which she also wore to this same event ten years ago and was photographed by Bill. Sadly, it was the last photo of her he would ever take, as he was soon hospitalized and passed away later in June.

Guest wearing a Carolina Herrera black and white floral high-low gown, photo by Laurel Marcus

I spoke with an exhausted Plant Kween, aka Christopher Griffin, who had tended to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden ball, this one, and a few other floral events this week – he always turns it out in Christopher John Rogers. I informed him that he will probably get a bit of a respite now, as the NYBG ball is generally the last big gathering of the early summer before everyone takes off for parts unknown (or the Hamptons).

Holly Lowen, a study in pleated blue, photo by Laurel Marcus

One nice feature of this gala dinner, besides the lovely gardens, is that there are not many speeches, and they are short and sweet. J. Barclay Collins II made a Bill Clinton reference to the 60s era pot smoking, but he “didn’t inhale.”

Dinner under the tent, photo by Laurel Marcus

Guests dined on a spring bean salad, miso-glazed black cod, and a dessert trio of thematic petits fours, which almost looked too pretty to eat. After dessert, the dance floor in the stunningly decorated tent, complete with ‘60s accouterments, “groovy” covered chandeliers, and a good deal of Michael Jackson hits, became lively.

Sarah Easley, Cat O’Neal, photo by Laurel Marcus

As always, Lead Chairs were Maureen K. and Richard L. Chilton, Jr., and sponsors were Delta, Barlett Tree Experts, Hearst, and Mikimoto, who had the bonus of a booth of elaborate pearl jewelry, an arch to pose under, as well as a parting gift – a bottle of their lovely perfume.

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Photo by Laurel Marcus

Holding a fashion show outdoors this time of year takes bravery or a bit of craziness. Fortunately, HSFI’s students and faculty are fearless, as Mother Nature was rather unpredictable.

Ruben Toledo, Hilda Nieto, Robert di Mauro, photo by Laurel Marcus

Wednesday night was the 100th Anniversary Student Fashion Show fundraiser for the graduating senior class. The event, featuring student work in design, modeling, styling, and choreography, was held for the third year at Gansevoort Plaza.

“As HSFI celebrates its 100th anniversary, we’re proud to once again welcome this inspiring event to the Meatpacking District, a neighborhood where fashion, culture, and innovation come together every day,” – Jeffrey LeFrancois, Executive Director of the Meatpacking BID.

The evening honored Principal Daryl Blank with the Legacy Award and Sharifa Murdock, Kith’s Chief Impact Officer, with the Visionary Award. “For a century, HSFI has discovered talent, nurtured creativity, and shaped futures.

Stormy weather and strange lights above? Photo by Laurel Marcus

Tonight’s fashion show in the iconic Meatpacking District celebrates the students, alumni, and educators who build this extraordinary legacy – and the next generation who will carry it forward,” said Principal Blank.

Daryl Blank, photo by Frank Rocco

Murdock said, “Being recognized by an institution devoted to fostering creativity, building skills, and celebrating individuality for a century means more than words can explain.” She spoke about the value of mentoring, but the thunder interrupted.

More looks. photo by Laurel Marcus

After the cocktail reception at Serafina, the main event began as clouds rolled in, bringing an end to a hot, humid week. The decorative canvas swag bags, illustrated by HSFI senior Lyxander Espinal, included a student-painted paper fan and an HSFI umbrella for unprepared guests.

The parade continues. Photo by Laurel Marcus

And yes, just as the first drops landed, the students set sail down the runway in all kinds of eclectic, interesting looks. All ends of the fashion spectrum were represented, from Little Mermaid to Anime or K-Pop, from Goth to Grunge to Gangsta, from Victorian to futuristic, from polka dots to plaid, from flowy chiffon to structured satin, and a few nods to Met Gala-esque avant-garde looks.

Platform heels, wet cobblestones, and rain made me cringe, but I saw only a few stumbles—no spills or faceplants. The rain gave the event a mystical feel that benefited the students. They didn’t mind their designs getting wet, even after debuting them earlier in-house for faculty and students.

I would love to learn more about the process, as they work with industry mentors throughout the year, who provide feedback and critiques to help guide the final designs and presentations.

Photo by Laurel Marcus

Notable attendees and supporters of HSFI included famed fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo – a previous HSFI honoree; the fashion model Carol Alt, who collaborated with the students on a repurposing project; and former principal (2002 to 2010) Hilda Nieto, who still shares a very special bond with HSFI.

Carol Alt, Robert di Mauro, photo by Laurel Marcus

And of course, all around fashion guru/long-time HSFI board member Robert DiMauro (there’s even a design studio named after him and his alumni father), without whom none of this would be possible. Di Mauro’s cousin Ilene Shaw also attended – she is the Executive Director of the NYCxDESIGN festival, which just wrapped on Tuesday.

There was lots of whooping and hollering as the students and some faculty, including Principal Blank, made their way down the dripping-wet runway. It was all reminiscent of a “Project Runway” meets “America’s Next Top Model” challenge—making a rainy catwalk your own — and all passed with flying colors!

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Emma Chamberlain wearing Mugler

A maiden gallery, an “ambitious” exhibit, an ambiguous dress code, an Amazon takeover – and? “May the 4th be with you” must’ve been the charm as far as the beige faux stone carpet gala arrivals – I didn’t cringe nearly as much as I had feared.

“The new (Condé Nast) galleries in the heart of this two-million-square-foot building make a statement,” said Max Hollein, Director and CEO of The Met. “Fashion is art – something that in our 156-year history we have always believed.” Apparently, commerce is art too, since these are the digs of the former gift shop, which has moved just beyond the maze-like exhibit.

“The history of art is the history of the dressed body,” explained Wendy Yu Curator at the Costume Institute Andrew Bolton. “The history of art cannot be told without the history of fashion.” The exhibition demonstrates the confluence or juxtaposition of paintings, textiles, sculptures, along with a fashion mimic or inspo.

Photo by Laurel Marcus

All well and good until you go down the rabbit hole of differing body types and anatomy, including the corpulent body, the disabled body, women’s reproductive organs, the diseased or disturbed mind. So much of the exhibit features various shades of skin-colored body suits that you would think Skims was the sponsor.

Photo by Laurel Marcus

The “woke” and pandering aspect of this display hit me in a way that it’s probably not supposed to. Among the classical looks of Greek and Roman statues are the celebrated three Little People present, including Sinead Burke, who is the model for the mannequin placed, ironically, way up high. Several people in wheelchairs were also there, including adaptive fashion icon Aariana Rose Philip.

Sarah Paulson

On to the Gala–I thought the “Fashion is Art” dress code was particularly challenging and was worried about the possibility of attendees with picture frames around their necks, which I’m happy to say didn’t materialize. Here are my notables in no particular order.

The Wun to Watch: I was unfamiliar with London-based designer Robert Wun, who launched his label in 2014 and has dressed many high-profile performers. Last night, he certainly made a statement with Naomi Osaka, Jordan Roth, Audrey Nuna, Lisa, and Gustav Magnar Witzoe.

Last Minute Save: Blake Lively obviously had her archival Versace with added “laundry” train in the works for some time, so the pressure was on to settle her lawsuit against Justin Baldoni, which happened yesterday. Not sure (don’t care) if Ryan attended, but he didn’t walk the carpet.

Most AOC Moment: That’s easy – Sarah Paulson in Matieres Fecales runway dress complete with dollar bill mask — supposed commentary on the 1% percent while in their midst. How meta!

Literally “Art” but Great: Emma Chamberlain in a painted custom Mugler by Miguel Castro Freitas, hand-painted by Anna Deller-Yee. There’s a fun fitting video of her and her stylist on Vogue.com where they unbox the dress. Honorable Mention: Also loved Chase Infiniti’s trompe-l’œil beaded Thom Browne.

Age Before Beauty: What were Bad Bunny and Heidi Klum thinking? Yes, Heidi is the queen of Halloween, but this is the Met Gala. And why were her eyes red like a bunny? Speaking of which, If he’s older does he now go by Bad Rabbit or maybe Bad Hare?

No Minors Allowed (Unless they have colorful names): Nicole Kidman’s daughter Sunday Rose and Beyonce’s daughter Blue Ivy are exceptions.

No LSD – Just LSB – It was reported that Lauren Santo-Domingo, aka “the Tom Brady of fashion,” would not attend due to the Bezos involvement. LSB showed remarkable restraint in her outfits, both at the press preview and the gala – not even as much boobage as one would expect for her Cinderella moment.

Those Staying True to Form: In a bit of déjà vu, Cher and Stevie Nicks surprised no one (other than the fact that they were there), and even Beyonce, Rihanna, and Cardi B I feel like we’ve seen similar looks before

Better than the Hunk He Played on TV: Paul Anthony Kelly/JFK Jr. for the win. He looked positively edible.

Exhibit I’d Really Like to See: Anna Wintour, during the press preview, spoke of how this was a “full circle” moment for her, from when she had to “chase people to attend” the once-small event.

Her first Met Gala — “In 1982, when I was at New York (Magazine), I shut my eyes and bought a $900 Yves Saint Laurent cocktail dress at Bergdorf’s, which was way more than my rent” to attend on a “cheap after dinner ticket” bought by her editor.

This is now her 29th gala, which has raised more than any other year (thank you, Bezos’). I would love to see that cocktail dress, along with other fashion icons prized early possessions (if they are retrievable), in a fashion exhibition.

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Susan Scafidi, Chantal Fernandez – photos Laurel Marcus

“We need a little magic,” proclaimed Professor Susan Scafidi, Founder and President of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham University, as she opened up the 16th Annual Symposium “The Magic of Fashion.” “First, it was the fashion tariffs, now the Saks bankruptcy. We’re even going to talk about Jeffrey Epstein a little,” she teased.

No one does a theme like Prof. Scafidi. She said this one was personal, as her father was a magician. Black pipe and drape covered the room. Upside-down black top hats containing calla lilies decorated the tables, as did silver stars on the black tablecloths. A playlist featuring Olivia Newton-John’s “Magic,” the Steve Miller Band’s “Abracadabra,” and other songs mystically filled the air. “Magic” became my earworm.

L to R Trexler Kapelman, Rodriguez Maisel three-quarter – photo by Laurel Marcus

The event featured five panels, plus lunch and a cocktail magic show performed by a judge. Strap in as I attempt to expose some sleight of hand. “Disappearing and Reappearing: The Saks Bankruptcy and The Future of Fashion Retail” included speakers Joshua W. Kapelman, Hilldun; Denning Rodriguez, Rodriguez LLC; and Lawrence Maisel, Chanel (Retired). Jeff Trexler served as moderator.

“So many things led to this,” said Kapelman (referring to the Saks/Neimans situation). “Management is always the common theme.” His company, Hilldun, approves and guarantees the credit and owns all receivables for its various brand clients.

Judge Gary Brown, Sindy Ding-Voorhees, Bill D’Arienzo, John Maltbie – photo Laurel Marcus

It’s been reported that Saks dug itself into a hole after committing to buying Neiman Marcus. Retail hedge funds and investors, including Apollo, Jefferies (even Amazon has a stake in this), took on way too much debt, resulting in a “shock letter” on 2/14/24 informing suppliers that they would not be paid for 90 to 120 days.

This then led several brands to decide not to ship new inventory or to ship it late. Rodriguez explained that the late deliveries resulted in merchandise hitting the sales floor at full price, while other stores had it on sale.

The chain effect down the line involved warehouses, salespeople, and vendors not getting paid. Jewelry is often sold on consignment, usually with no bankruptcy protection and no guarantee of return to the vendor. It may be sold to pay other creditors, with a preference for vendors such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton.

Ariele Elia, Melissa Brown, Moriah Bankapur, Ashley Pusey – photo by Laurel Marcus

Kapelman believes Saks will emerge from bankruptcy. He advises his clients to “take the order that you can afford to lose.” The biggest takeaway is a question: What is the relevance of large, multi-brand retailers, like department stores, now? Printemps is trying, but Kapelman sees specialty stores such as Elyse Walker on Madison Ave or Ikram in Chicago as the new boom. He also warned new brands not to go DTC (Direct-to-Consumer), since they would compete with Amazon and other giants.

“Presto Change-O: Fashion Law, Technology, and Cultural Transformation” featured Melissa Brown, Lawyer and Documentary Film Producer; Moriah Bankapur, Inversa Leather; and Ashley Pusey, Kennedys with Ariele Elia, Fashion Law Institute as moderator. This was the all-female tech panel, which Brown launched with a film on influencer marketing and some regulations for disclosure.

Judge Gary Brown’s magic show – photo by Laurel Marcus

Seeing old-timey commercials I remembered, like Alka-Seltzer’s spicy meatball ad, followed by Gen-Z influencers like Emma Chamberlain, who dropped the “F” bomb in a tirade was indeed jarring. What is compliance like for these social media stars? The National Advertising Division (NAD) of the BBB now serves as a forum for advertisers to police themselves, disclose paid or gifted partnerships, and curb potentially misleading advertising.

“Top Hat” magic tricks – photo by Laurel Marcus

The beauty space is rife with influencers making far-fetched claims about a product, and even some “health experts” who claim to be dermatologists may not be. “The FTC and NAD have limited resources to enforce this, particularly among smaller brands with the volume and pace of content,” said Brown.

Pusey spoke about using AI to address these issues and also mentioned using Claude (another AI app similar to Chat GPT) to repurpose a bridesmaid gown. At this point, some window washers decided to show up outside “to help with transparency,” quipped Prof. Scafidi.

Judge Brown and Susan Scafidi – photo by Laurel Marcus

After the buffet lunch (we were admonished against knife throwing, sword swallowing and psychic spoon bending) was Folk Magic: Ghana, Kente, and New Dimensions in Cultural Appropriation Law including Sana Ahmed, The Fashion Law Africa Summit and Fashion Business Co Agency (appearing on Zoom); Mimi Plange, Creative Director at Mimi Plange; Dr. Elizabeth Way, Curator at The Museum at FIT and Prof. Scafidi as moderator.

Sana Ahmed (on screen), Dr. Elizabeth Way, Mimi Plange, Susan Scafidi – photo by Laurel Marcus

Ghana, with UNESCO, has issued a law on the use of Kente cloth —the woven material worn for special or ceremonial occasions, often with custom-made details or symbols for the wearer, unlike the printed version we see here. The weave and name are protected, but not the printed version, which we saw embarrassingly on a kneeling Nancy Pelosi and Chuck Schumer way back in the last administration.

“As a designer, I don’t want to be restricted. I want to be able to pull from other cultures,” said Plange. “Just give the respect of saying where it comes from. The main problem is that Ghana can’t build its industry – real Kente cloth is made by hand and personalized rather than screen or digital printed.”

Amanda Gorman

Dr. Way commented that “The onus is on luxury brands like Louis Vuitton” (VOGUE featured Amanda Gorman on the cover wearing the LV logoed Kente cloth dress). “It was Virgil Abloh drawing on his own heritage, but for a large French fashion house, so it’s complicated,” Plange suggested that he should have worked instead with some of the weavers.

Susan Scafidi with First Panel – photo by Laurel Marcus

The idea of cultural appropriation extends to other cultures. Think of Scottish Tartan or Harris Tweed, British textiles that tell stories. Did you know Burberry has a registered tartan? Even Hello Kitty has a pink one.

“Magic Words” was an author conversation with Chantal Fernandez, currently at The Cut, New York Magazine (she has been with just about every fashion mag previously), who co-authored with Lauren Sherman, “Selling Sexy: Victoria’s Secret and The Unraveling of An American Icon” – a fascinating expose which, of course, is when Jeffrey Epstein’s name arose.

Why a business book about Victoria’s Secret? “It had to be a brand that everyone has a relation to,” she explained. When asked how many people in the room had a VS garment in a drawer, “almost everyone’s hand went up, including the guys – we won’t tell,” joked Prof. Scafidi.

The story of the rise and fall of the lingerie company, which still features in malls and has 800 stores, is fascinating. The book details the struggles and stumbles of the first underwear specialty store, which rode a wave of push-up bras until the bralette became a sought-after commodity, and “me-too” put the near-final nail in the coffin.

Fernandez discussed the VS Angels as a reality show that turned models into stars with huge payouts. She and Prof. Scafidi pointed out that Tyra Banks was an Angel and was probably replicating what she experienced on “America’s Next Top Model,” but hers was probably worse.

“If you need to buy a bra right now, there aren’t that many places to go,” said Fernandez, although perhaps Skims or Aerie, with their “anti VS marketing message,” would be an option.

“Mind Reading: Fashion Litigation and the Role of Expert Witnesses” was the final panel, featuring Bill D’Arienzo, WDA Strategic Brand Marketing; John Maltbie, Louis Vuitton; The Hon. Gary Brown, E.D.N.Y.; and Sindy Ding-Voorhees, Kilpatrick Townsend & Stockton, as moderator.

The main point I took from this is that a so-called “expert witness” must be qualified in the area they are testifying in (Judge Brown had a graphologist presented as a handwriting expert in a case, when they are actually analysts of handwriting to infer personality traits, behavior, and emotional states).

Additionally, the facts must fit the case, and the witness must follow a reliable methodology. Cases can turn on an expert witness, especially if they are knocked out. “I am the gatekeeper,” said Judge Brown. “Before the jury gets to hear from an expert witness, I have to make sure he’s qualified or get out of my court. The most fun thing is a berserk expert witness.”

And with that, we were ready for Potions & Prestidigitation: Cocktail Hour & Performance by Judge Gary Brown featuring Black Magic (espresso martinis). It also featured some snazzy red soled shoes worn by Prof. Scafidi, which became the subject of a magic trick too involved to explain here.

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Alyce Panico, Coco Rocha, Maryanne Grisz, Nancy Becker, photo by Laurel Marcus

Women (particularly mothers), mentorship, and storytelling were at the heart of FGI’s 30th Annual Rising Star Awards held once again at 583 Park Avenue on Thursday afternoon. The event kicked off with an 11 AM cocktail hour where you could easily pick out the award finalists and have a chat about their product du jour — be it handbags, eyeglasses, cosmetics, jewelry, evening wear, or perhaps a new way to promote sustainability in fashion.

Coco Rocha, photo by Laurel Marcus

Hosted by Coco Rocha (a model with an 8-year-old mentorship program training over 5,000 models from around the world, as well as a mother to three kids), a keynote speech by Ruben Toledo dedicated to his late wife Isabel, but with some important pointers for rising stars, was read from a comically giant two-part scroll.

Aiste Hong Ready-to-Wear Winner with Frederick Anderson, photo by Laurel Marcus

Then, a lifetime achievement award for Mindy Grossman, and a new award for Media Impact presented to Paige Desorbo, plus the usual categories previously mentioned, this luncheon packs a punch.  Sponsors were People Inc., Simon G. Fine Jewelry, Hilldun, Macy’s, and Fanatics Foundation.

Presenters included Alina Cho, Bibhu Mohapatra, Brooke Brinkman, Fatmata Camara, Frederick Anderson, Jason Schupach, Jeffrey Banks, Joshua Kapelman, Romero Jennings, Nicole Miller, and Sally Holmes, and co-chairs were Alyce Panico and Nancy Berger.

Marilyn Kirschner, Marylou Louther, and Ruben Toledo, photo by Laurel Marcus

Add to the mix fashion icons including Ken Downing, Fern Mallis, Marylou Luther, and of course, FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz, and it’s no wonder those just embarking on a fashion career could be intimidated.  Jeanette Limas, who won for Fashion Apparel: Eveningwear, remarked how when she heard “Fern Mallis,” she got nervous because she had studied her in school and dreamed of someday meeting her in person.

“Vision, grit, and something original” are important, said Rocha, but “none of us made it without someone else.”  Nancy Berger spoke of “identifying talent at a pivotal moment and encouraging it to grow.”  Influencer extraordinaire Paige Desorbo said it was important to “figure out who I already was, then everything kind of shifted.  

It’s not just about being seen, it’s about being understood.  People can tell when you’re trying just a little bit too hard.  Trust that who you are is enough and show up with that consistently.”

Evan Hirsch, photo by Laurel Marcus

Ruben told a great story about how he “dove in early” by taking Isabel’s dresses (fresh off the sewing machine) to Pat Field and Henri Bendel, who both placed orders, although they had very diverse clientele.  On starting a company: “Your business will resemble you, so think about that – it’s like dogs look like their owners.” Another valuable lesson he imparted: “Don’t work against yourself – no self-sabotage.”

Jamie Books, the winner of Fine Jewelry, was one of several women who mentioned motherhood.  “Building something while raising someone is no small feat.”  She was not the only one – Ashunta Sheriff-Kendrick, who won the Beauty category, mentioned creating her business while tending to eight (yes, 8!) kids (shoutout to her daughter’s 27th birthday), while  Limas spoke of just having had a baby 5 weeks ago – you would never guess it by how she looked in her self-designed red gown!

Ken Downing, photo by Laurel Marcus

The theme of storytelling was also bandied about. “Today we celebrate not just talent but the courage of creators and storytellers,” said Maryann Grisz, wearing an absolutely stunning silver shoulder ornament by previous accessories winner Kate Barton, “Rising star awards are truly a journey for a creative person with business strategy.” “True luxury is not in excess; it’s in the details.  The stones hold stories,” said Jamie Books of Mason and Books, winner for Fine Jewelry.

Frederick Anderson while presenting the Fashion Apparel award for Ready-To-Wear railed “Coco Chanel started her business during WWII. This is not WWII, at least mot yet, but it is a time when Saks and Neiman’s are failing and we need to fix this!”

Surprise — the award ended up in the second tie of the afternoon.

Red Carpet, photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Interestingly, both ties (the other was in Accessories) involved designers at my table who seemed to have PR veteran Patrick McGregor (seated to my left) to thank. “Fashion is a team sport – no one gets ahead alone,” Rocha said as she closed the luncheon, quipping that since it had run late, she would be picking up her kid from school a little overdressed. Betting it’s not the first time!

FGI Rising Star Award Winners 2026:

Award Winners, photo by Laurel Marcus

Jewelry Awards, Presented by Simon G. Jewelry:
Fine Jewelry Award: Presented by Brooke Brinkman (Simon G. Jewelry) and Alina Cho to Jamie Books (Mason and Books)
Fashion Jewelry Award: Presented by Brooke Brinkman (Simon G. Jewelry) and Alina Cho to Ashley Moubayed (Don’t Let Disco)
Accessories Award: Presented by Nicole Miller to both Erin Saluti (Eittem) and Sarah Fiszel & Maxwell Federbush (Brave Pudding)
Sustainability Award: Presented by Jason Schupbach (F.I.T.) to Chuks Collins (Chuks Collins)
Beauty Award: Presented by Romero Jennings (M·A·C) to Ashunta Sheriff-Kendricks (Ashunta)
Fashion Apparel: Ready-to-Wear Award, Menswear: Presented by Frederick Anderson to Wangda Chen (Wàngda)
Fashion Apparel: Ready-to-Wear Award, Women’s Wear: Presented by Frederick Anderson to Aiste Hong (AISTĖ HONG)
Fashion Apparel: Eveningwear Award: Presented by Bibhu Mohapatra to Jeanette Limas (Jeanette Limas Studio)

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Steven Klein, signing his book, photo by Laurel Marcus

I braved the Staley-Wise Gallery opening night “steam bath” on Thursday night to see the new, uber-popular (judging by the sheer number of people crammed into the space) exhibition “Helmut Newton X Steven Klein on the Dark Side”.

Helmut Newton, Paloma Picasso, Steven Klein, Bondage Warriors

The two photographers were selected in tandem and juxtaposed as they each represent the erotic, the fetishistic, the humorous, and the glamorous side of fashion photography – Newton in the 1970s and 1980s and Klein in the 1990s and beyond. Klein (originally a painter) mixed and mingled with the guests and well-wishers while also signing copies of his new book, which came out in December 2025, “Steven Klein/VOGUE.”

Helmut Newton, TV Murder in a hotel on the Croisette, Cannes, France 1975

Newton, whose family left Berlin for Australia to escape the Nazis in 1938, eventually ended up in Paris, notably shooting countless images for the French and American editions of VOGUE. Klein, born in Rhode Island, also ended up in Paris shooting for VOGUE and Vanity Fair.

Nancy Chilton, PJ Chandra, Tonne Goodman, photo by Laurel Marcus

Provocative, dangerous, thrilling, and quirky images lined the gallery (on view through May 2), while attendees of all ages, as well as the usual young model types (particularly male), packed in like sardines. Fashion industry stalwarts, including Nancy Chilton, VOGUE editor Tonne Goodman, and PC Chandra, were huddled together near the entrance.

The crowd, photo by Laurel Marcus

Interestingly, the last exhibition I attended here was for Pamela Hanson – I caught a quick glimpse of her and her husband making their rounds through the gallery, without being acknowledged as far as I saw by the night’s honoree, before exiting abruptly.

Steven Klein, The Last Femme on Earth

“He’s a really nice guy,” said an older gentleman named Joel, who had spoken with Klein — a fellow RISD graduate focusing more on architecture, “but he did better than I did,” he added. “You had less plastic surgery than he did,” I answered, riffing on the fact that a woman told me she barely recognized 60-year-old Klein “with all the work he had done.”

I couldn’t help hearing two young men conversing as they passed by. “Is Helmut Newton going to be here?” one asked. Not unless we hold a séance (he died in 2004), but I’m sure he was there in spirit.

Steven Klein, Suburbia #11, 2007

According to Klein, “nothing is really shocking anymore, but some things are now taboo.” I thought of the hate he got recently when he posted an AI version of a video for Dolce & Gabbana during fashion week (it was termed “AI slop”) of a youthful Madonna on her knees, scrubbing the floor while throngs of people almost trample her, and her face changes eerily.

Klein has a 20-year history of collaborating with the Material Girl and other celebrities, including Brad Pitt, particularly during his “Fight Club” era. Besides the photos, a few videos run on repeat at the gallery – Klein has mentioned that he would like to break into film next, in a natural progression of his visual art and creativity.

As I stepped out for a minute to catch my breath from the extreme heat, people were congregating in the hallway while a model and Bradley Cooper’s baby mama posed for a photographer, half in and half out of a giant faux fur coat.

Klein’s young son appeared towards the end of the evening with an “ok daddy it’s time to go home” expression.

Latest Comments:

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   FROM: American fashion designer Ralph Rucci: A major home run! How extraordinary this young lady is, and along with her…

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   Marilyn, You look absolutely fabulous! And this Elsa Schiaparelli bag !!!! We have met a few times at different events.…

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   An Explosion of stunning and playful creativity inspired by the Glorious BEAUTY of ORCHIDS!!!

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Kai Bird, Michele Oka Doner, Jeremy Doner, Fred Doner, All Photos by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan, PMC

The Park Avenue Armory is known for presenting artists’ work indoors, including the renowned and exclusive Winter Show, but Monday night marked the debut of something new and different – outdoor art that anyone can pass by and observe – no ticket required.

Talisman Close-up, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

Where can I see this art installation, you might ask?  The answer: Look up! They are located in the trees on the Park Avenue Mall, between 66th and 67th Streets, directly facing the Armory.  Especially interesting at night, three hundred fiber-optic-lit hand-formed “heads” with a sort of spooky mask quality (more on this later), known as Talisman, were created by artist Michele Oka Doner.

Barbara Tober and Michele Oka Doner, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

Her work as an artist and author spans five decades.  This is the first sculptural installation of its kind installed under The Fund for Park Avenue and will be on display through November, witnessing the changing seasons.

The audience, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

“The Talisma, currently residing on Park Avenue, draws on both anthropological and mythic references to the inhabitants of our City, ancestral and current,” remarked Michele Oka Doner, who specializes in works evolving from the study and appreciation of the natural world. 

“They are urban fireflies, lighting up the night…Inhabiting a Sacred Grove, seasonally bare in early spring, then sheltered in a leafy dome as summer ripens, Talisman will continue to change during their residency on Park Avenue Mall.” – Michele Oka Doner

Marilyn Kirschner, Ruben Toledo, Laurel Marcus, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

The concept and execution were two years in the making, all in the artist’s loft residence/studio in Soho, which she refers to as a “cave.”  The Talismans range in size from 5” to a foot-and-a-half and are made of pulp and organic materials, while the trees are all species native to New York.  The installation took four days to complete with cranes and a team of ten.

Micky Wolfson, Michele Doner, Kai Bird, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

Monday evening’s opening cocktail celebration, hosted by Elihu Rose and Barbara Tober, was attended by about 150 guests.  It included a conversation between Oka Doner, Micky Wolfson (founder of the Wolfsonian Museum in Miami Beach), and Pulitzer Prize-winning American historian/author Kai Bird. 

When asked if the masklike heads (derived from folklore and mythic forms) were intended to look somewhat eerie and mysterious, Oka Doner said that they felt happy and joyous to her. 

One of a dozen seafood towers provided by Keith McNally, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

After the talk and a viewing of the installation, guests were invited to the iconic and imposing “Tiffany Room,” where champagne and a dozen seafood towers of shrimp, lobster tail, and oysters were provided by Balthazar’s Keith McNally, a longtime friend of the artist.

Susan Rose, Elihu Rose, Laurie Beckelman, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

Notable guests welcomed by Oka Doner’s sons Jordan Doner and Jeremy Doner, and her husband, Fred Doner, included HRH Prince Sultan bin Fahad bin Nasser bin Abdulaziz and Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, Paola Antonelli, Carrie Rebora Barratt, Laurie Beckelman, Cora Cahan, Amy Cappellazzo, Kyle DeWoody, Layla Diba, Tiffany Dubin, Jane Farhi and James Barron, Joanna Fisher, Anthony Haden-Guest, Rachel Hovnanian, Yue-Sai Kan and Alan Pollack, Harold Koda and Alan Kornberg, Irina and Andres Serrano, Betsy Sussler, and Ruben Toledo.

Alex Shuman and Harold Koda, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

If you’ve passed through the Miami International Airport, you may have seen Michele Oka Doner’s permanent installation (this time you have to look down) as your feet pass over her mile and a quarter long concourse of bronze inlaid shells set in terrazzo, christened “A Walk on the Beach”. Her artistic production includes sculpture, public art, prints, drawings, functional objects, artist books, costume and set design, video, and other media. 

Talisman Installation on Park Avenue, photo by Sean Zanni & Patrick McMullan

Michele is the recipient of many awards and her works can be found in The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Whitney Museum of American Art, Chicago Art Institute, Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum (Smithsonian), the Louvre-Paris, Victoria & Albert Museum, London as well as in the museum collections at the University of Michigan, Harvard, Princeton, Yale, and Oxford.

LATEST COMMENTS

1. 

   FROM: American fashion designer Ralph Rucci: A major home run! How extraordinary this young lady is, and along with her…

2. 

   test comment

3. 

   Marilyn, You look absolutely fabulous! And this Elsa Schiaparelli bag !!!! We have met a few times at different events.…

4. 

   An Explosion of stunning and playful creativity inspired by the Glorious BEAUTY of ORCHIDS!!!

5. 

   What a great talent Ruben is …… in addition to being a thoroughly lovely man. And the legacy of his…

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Stella Jacob, Sharon Jacob, and Catherine O’Neill  – photo by Laurel Marcus

New York City is often described as a “concrete jungle,” a term popularized through film, music, and literature to convey a landscape dominated by buildings and infrastructure, with limited natural greenery.

Tablescape with mechanical butterflies, photo by Laurel Marcus

The NYBG’s current theme for the 23rd annual Orchid Show explores this idea with the mysterious, gas-masked, allegedly worn for allergy defense but never seen without it, celebrated street artist/designer Mr. Flower Fantastic (MFF) in the exhibition on view now through April 26.

Thursday night featured the annual Orchid Dinner at the Plaza Hotel, an event that transforms the venue into a vibrant oasis where both plants and guests showcase their creativity.

Martha Stewart, shopping for orchids, dressed in Michael Kors – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

In the Bronx, visitors can view life-size floral tableaus representing city life, including a brownstone, subway, trash can, dumpster, car wash with a floral taxi, laundromat with terrariums, pizzeria with a floral pepperoni pizza, and a newsstand, all presented as works of art.

Alexandra Longanecker wearing vintage Nina Ricci Couture 1988 – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

In Midtown Manhattan, many tablescapes reflected and expanded on this theme, featuring elements such as a decorated water tower, city skyline motifs, a graffiti-covered construction column, an NYBG subway sign, a Tiffany & Co. tribute with blue shopping bags, and illuminated butterflies reminiscent of Times Square. The event offered a vibrant visual experience.

Christopher Griffin AKA Plant Kween in a John Rogers pantsuit, – photo by Laurel Marcus

All 41 centerpieces were curated and donated by local floral designers and companies. Each designer was provided with a complete table setting to showcase their creativity, resulting in unique and imaginative displays.

Marilyn Kirschner and Joshua Kamei, photo by Laurel Marcus

Unlike previous years, the floral designers were not present at their tables, limiting opportunities for interaction. Mr. Flower Fantastic was also absent. The evening was sponsored by Emily P. Wheeler, Veranda, and Hearst, with jewelry by Wheeler displayed throughout the venue.

Pennlyn Woosley and Canaan Marshall, floral designer – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Guests included Alex Newell, Emily Wheeler, Martha Stewart, Plant Kween, Anne V., and others. Lead Chairs Susan and George Matelich. The evening’s Chairs were Sara Arno and Kevin Cornish, Allison and Trent Carmichael, Maureen K. and Richard L. Chilton, Jr., J. Barclay Collins II and Kristina Durr, Ravenel Curry and Jane Moss, Gillian Hearst, Sharon and Bill Jacob, Joan Jedell, Mary and Garrett Moran, Susan and Greg Palm, Steve and Tina Swartz, Tracy Tang, Mr. and Mrs. Edward K. Weld. 

Hilary Pereira with her “I Love New York” Table settings – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Guests also contributed to the event’s vibrant atmosphere, wearing festive attire that included floral patterns, bright colors, white, pastels, sequins, and beads. The emphasis was on bold, eye-catching fashion.

Laurel and a woman in a floral headdress – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

At the cocktail hour and rare orchid sale, the orchids sold out quickly. Initially, I was the only guest wearing floral headwear, but as the evening continued, more women appeared with similar headpieces, some crafted from live flowers.

Graffiti and Empire State Building inspired tablescapes – photo by Marilyn Kirschner

The ever-exotic orchid seems to be having a moment, as witnessed at the Paris Haute Couture Dior show – designer JW Anderson festooned several models with orchids cascading down their necks and shoulders.  Orchids as fashion accessories will always be iconic, much like the daily trademarks that make NYC “the place dreams are made of.”

Latest Comments:

1. 

   FROM: American fashion designer Ralph Rucci: A major home run! How extraordinary this young lady is, and along with her…

2. 

   test comment

3. 

   Marilyn, You look absolutely fabulous! And this Elsa Schiaparelli bag !!!! We have met a few times at different events.…

4. 

   An Explosion of stunning and playful creativity inspired by the Glorious BEAUTY of ORCHIDS!!!

5. 

   What a great talent Ruben is …… in addition to being a thoroughly lovely man. And the legacy of his…

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